Should I replace clutch parts

So I have been sitting on one of Sebs clear clutch covers for awhile now (not literally sitting on it of course)

Now, before I install it I have been really huming and hawing over whether I should replace some, if not all, of the clutch bits while I am in there. 

For the record my 2000 VFR has about 66,000kms (41,000miles) on her. My ownership has been about 20k kms (13k miles) of happy life.

It has had a few previous owners. I have an inkling that the bike may have been tinkered with in the past. Looks like it may have had a Power Commander on it previously. I think the o2's are disconnected. Airbox mods, Pipe, K&N air filter etc etc

I don't beat on the bike and maybe WOT rip it hard once in awhile. I don't do clutch ups or wheelies or anything.

A few years back I took her on a loaded road trip through America. It performed flawlessly on roads like Pikes Peak and Beartooth.
(See ride report below)

 I can say that throughout my road trips and entire ownership I have never had an issue with the clutch (knock on wood)

So I am currently stuck between 2 schools of thought. 

1. Don't fix what ain't broke

So in this case I'll just swap on Seb's clutch cover and be done.

2. May aswell while you're in there

In this case I'll install new friction plates and clutch springs.

The other option is to just replace the clutch springs. From my search on the forums it look as though when people experience slippage, the springs are usually the likely culprit, and they aren't very expensive.

I don't plan on getting rid of the bike ever.

 What is everyones thoughts?

Taking off the cover is not really "in there" for a clutch swap. No point in switching out the clutch when it isn't worn out. If you want you can take out the clutch and measure the wear according to manual specs and change the clutch if it is on the last stretch. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.

1 hour ago, iLikeThat

Taking off the cover is not really "in there" for a clutch swap. No point in switching out the clutch when it isn't worn out. If you want you can take out the clutch and measure the wear according to manual specs and change the clutch if it is on the last stretch. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.

 You're right that it's not really "in there" but I will be "there" if you know what I mean.

I'll already have the clutch cover off. I'll already have the 5 bolts and clutch springs out to install the nicer looking clutch plate and bolts.

Changing the clutch plates and/or springs at that point is just easier. But is it a waste of money at this point 

slowbird  You're right that it's not really "in there" but I will be "there" if you know what I mean.

I'll already have the clutch cover off. I'll already have the 5 bolts and clutch springs out to install the nicer looking clutch plate and bolts.
 
Changing the clutch plates and/or springs at that point is just easier. But is it a waste of money at this point 

I changed out the clutch plates in mine at 95000km; I was getting a bit of uneveness on take-off, making it hard to smoothly match the revs and clutch, but I had no other sypmtoms of wear. I put some new EBC fibre plates in and the clutch was a night and day improvement with a much smoother, wider engagement zone. 

When I sold my 2005 it had 90,000 kilometres on it. Clutch was still fine but if I'd kept the bike I probably would have changed it soon just to be sure. Unless your clutch is acting up, I'm not sure I'd bother. Especially as it sounds like you (and me) are not riding 12 o'clock wheelies and doing 50 burnouts a day.  :wheel:

Google this Dutch phrase:

"Meten is weten"

If ok, then price the parts, see which fine bottle of Scottish single malt you can buy for that and go for the bottle....  :goofy:

Just my 2 cents.....

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High mileage is the constant where all clutches begin to
loose grip due to normal glazing and contaminates that build up over use...

If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest is some
good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't
automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your
clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to
determine serviceability and within the factory specifications...

Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal
glazing and contaminates...

Deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... it use to be part of every savvy

rider's maintenance plan... and for some reason that all change... why fix what

you can buy new is the what you hear now a days... but if your interested in
making your clutch bite good as new then roll up your sleeves and read
on...

Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty
of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness
in thousands of an inch or mm...

First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay
over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a
circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away
remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate
looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck
thickness...

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Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...
make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness
range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled
them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface...
you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks...

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https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/monthly_2020_06/PressurePlates2.jpg.4d1e496dbcbcbb383730a9ab807432c9.jpg

Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage...
Have a new gasket standing by...

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Just install Seb's cover and if you see any glazing of the friction plates just use Larry's advice to de-glaze them if needed.

I've put 106000 hard & ruff miles on my original 02 VFR clutch with no issues! Second gear wheelies, wheelies, wheelies, wheelies etc. and my 5W-30 Moble 1 has saved it.

I do have engine vibration that started around 70-80,000 miles though, thinking the clutch hub might have enough hammered damaged or even broke off a tab and is now causing this vibration.

Not sure yet of the cause.

BR

Put the cover on, you're good to go. You can change the clutch springs through the window without pulling the whole cover, too.

Sorry for the late reply. Been busy. 

Lots of great replies and helpful info. Thank you so much.😉
Good to hear that some of the clutch issues that were mentioned on here were much higher KM's than what I currently got. 

I'll take a gander at the plates when I'm in there and see if they look glazed 👍

SEBSPEED, 7/18/2020 at 6:04 PM

Put the cover on, you're good to go. You can change the clutch springs through the window without pulling the whole cover, too.

ooooooh yeeeeeah! I didn't even think about that, 😲

 The large O-Ring for the window is reusable?

slowbird, 7/25/2020 at 8:44 PM

 The large O-Ring for the window is reusable?

Yes, it can be reused many times. 

So I finally had a free day and got crackin on the clutch cover.

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 Removing the clutch cover was a bit tough. It was really stuck on there, and I really had to yank on it to get it off. 

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Usually I find the most difficult and tedious process of doing something like this is removing the old gasket material but it came off surprisingly easily with my new gasket scraper tool.

After that it was time to pop off the old clutch plate and spring bolts.

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I inspected the clutch disks and plates and they seemed fine. The Clutch springs measured within spec but they had this strange yellowish goop on them. 

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 I thought maybe it was paint but it came off with some light scrubbing. 🤷‍♂️ I don't know.

Now this is where I hit a bit of a road block. The bearing that sits in the clutch plate would not go in easily...and by easily I mean it did not want to go in at all. it came off the old clutch plate easily but I couldn't put it in the new one at all.
I tried everything. Heating the plate and putting the bearing in the freezer. trying to smoothen out the inside of the plate. Light tapping....nothing. 

I ended up tapping it in there pretty hard. It was the only way. 

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The bearing now feels a bit notchy when I spin it 🤦‍♂️ 

So I've buttoned it up for now and the bike feels fine, but I'll have to order a new bearing and polish up the old clutch plate and go back and replace them.

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Here is the finished product.

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EDIT: Just thought I'd post an update since I am getting messages about the install. I ended up putting the original stock cover back on because this one was leaking oil from the sight glass window. I didn't have time or space to keep messing with it so I ended up selling the cover and going back to stock. 

That yellow paint is "OEM", i.e. new parts have it too.