I originally purchased the bike new in 86, road racing in early 90's and sport touring throughout, sold in 2000 never to be seen again.... 2018 comes along and my son calls me up from Wisconsin. "Dad, is this the Viffer!? Its for sale and I'm buying it!"
Thats the short story.
Now I'm 63, retired, bodies beat up, trying to repair this old girl while she tries to repair me...
Today I figured out how to replace the plug wires and keep the stock boots/caps!
Cool. Pictures are needed.
tsmitty, 4/7/2023 at 12:11 AM"Dad, is this the Viffer!? Its for sale and I'm buying it!"
Nice 😎
Don't think I have ever seen welded on radiator protectors like that before.
[image: VFR_Rad1.thumb.jpg.941dbd4c83a043aa3da89fb92bae88c7.jpg]
Pretty sure you can see a radiator repair from before these were welded on?
[image: VFR_Rad2.thumb.jpg.34f9fdb2eb04151561d40ffe748bcbb3.jpg]
Anyway, that's pretty cool. And with a replaceable skid pad?
And looks like the crankcase cover has a plate welded up to it too. Did that on both sides of my CBR600F2 race bike.
2 hours ago, Captain 80sDon't think I have ever seen welded on radiator protectors like that before.
Respect Captain 80s! This is what makes an expert!
Yes, I put the protectors on back in the early track days. The side cover came some years later after a full plastic restoration (when you could buy the plastic), I T-boned a deer at about 70mph. I made the cover cap from billet and have a friend Tig it on.
When my son first bought the bike in 2018 or so, he hurried and got the thing running and took it out all day joy riding ( i strongly advised not!) well he let it sit for 2 years.
When it finely got to my garage and I started checking my old girl out here's what i found so far;
1) Stator/Rec. toast! plug melted and terminals shorted together, it boiled the flippin battery dry, spots of battery acid all over... I told the boy it wasn't ready to ride! lol
2) Clutch slipping (not surprised, probably the one I put in back in the 90's
3) Whats left of the Kerker White Tip collector was looking like Swiss cheese in the 90's before I sold it. Afraid to take it off.
4) Radiator shows signs of someone putting a stop leak in
5) I put new plug wires on it this week
6) Rear brake disc worn below limits!!! Who the heck wears the rear brake out?!?! I don't think I ever wore a set of rear pads out!
So whoever had the bike after I got rid of it let it go mechanically. The plastic isn't that bad other than the tail sections busted up pretty good, I'll get to that after I go through the electrical, front/ rear suspension (Progresive/ Fox).
When my son and I first got the bike running the engine sounded very nice, a little rich.
I have spare parts if you need anything.
5 minutes ago, VFR750F3I have spare parts if you need anything.
Thanks!
I'm trying to prioritize as best i can. I'm saving for a "Ricks" stator and a "Roadster" FH020 rectifier. I just put a eBay main harness in it, not after analyzing every connection.
So, while I'm waiting for the funds for the charging system I'll go through the suspension and mechanicals.
I was reading an "archived" thread last night of a member having info on 3-d printed Cowl Inner Panels. Anybody?
Thanks!
Lovin' it! Awesome.
Don't know if anything ever materialized on those inner panels.
15 hours ago, VFR750F3I have spare parts if you need anything.
If you have a decent radiator and/or rear brake disc that you're willing to let go of please "message" me.
1 hour ago, tsmittyIf you have a decent rear brake disc that you're willing to let go of please "message" me.
To increase your search area, the VF500F Interceptor discs are the same size and thickness, just without holes. The 500 front rotors are a little lighter design than the 500 rear.
We put a front one on my buddy's 87 VFR, his was toast.
"But it doesn't have holes."
"It's in perfect condition and I'm giving it to you for free."
"Oh. Yeah, I like it."
9 minutes ago, Captain 80sTo increase your search area, the VF500F Interceptor discs are the same size and thickness, just without holes. The 500 front rotors are a little lighter design than the 500 rear.
We put a front one on my buddy's 87 VFR, his was toast.
"But it doesn't have holes."
"It's in perfect condition and I'm giving it to you for free."
"Oh. Yeah, I like it."
Awesome! Thank you so much!
My front disc's are in great condition just the rear ones' cooked.
6 minutes ago, tsmittyMy front disc's are in great condition just the rear ones' cooked.
Like you, that never makes sense to me. But, rear calipers are often overlooked and nasty. They drag and destroy discs. And that rear caliper is the older design and very prone to seizing on the collar and not floating.
Example:
1 hour ago, Captain 80sExample:
This will fit my rear wheel?
Thanks for the heads up on the rear caliper, that will get addressed when I make my way back there.
20 minutes ago, tsmittyThis will fit my rear wheel?
Yes sir. Bolt on.
Let me check my "Parts Department". I might have an odd ball that's not part of a set that you can have for actual shipping if you want. But that one is a decent deal with free shipping. I would be shipping from Washington State.
3 minutes ago, Captain 80sYes sir. Bolt on.
Let me check my "parts Department". I might have an odd ball that's not part of a set that you can have for actual shipping if you want. But that one is a decent deal with free shipping. I would be shipping from Washington State.
Thanks! I got it. The price was right for me and he got rid of a paperweight...
I was looking at the radiator that's on there looks pretty nice. a small j/b weld repair next to the cap though. cms has a new one for about 1000.00 lol
6 minutes ago, tsmittyThanks! I got it. The price was right for me and he got rid of a paperweight...
I was looking at the radiator that's on there looks pretty nice. a small j/b weld repair next to the cap though. cms has a new one for about 1000.00 lol
Perhaps give it some more time. 86-87 VFR radiators used to be very rare on ebay, but I've noticed more coming up in the last year or two that look decent and aren't crazy expensive.
I've also kinda wanted to try one these out, but with no real high hopes. I don't know why this one is so cheap. They usually always go for around $180.
I took the front wheel bearings out this morning and will start cleaning the wheel up as much as I have patience for. lol
The forks comes next. Back in the track days I reworked the sliders and bushings and put Progressive springs on it.
I'm expecting no air pressure or oil, or the same oil I put in it.
4 minutes ago, Captain 80sPerhaps give it some more time. 86-87 VFR radiators used to be very rare on ebay, but I've noticed more coming up in the last year or two that look decent and aren't crazy expensive.
I've also kinda wanted to try one these out, but with no real high hopes. I don't know why this one is so cheap. They usually always go for around $180.
I saw that and similar like it. Was thinking of getting one and sending it right to this guy to see if he would pressure test and rework. https://icwradiators.com
If they are coming apart, you might consider installing some Race Tech Cartridge Emulators. They work really good. But they might not be compatible with your Progressive Springs. The ID of those springs is too small to engage the Emulator correctly.
1 minute ago, tsmittyI saw that and similar like it. Was thinking of getting one and sending it right to this guy to see if he would pressure test and rework. https://icwradiators.com
That's what I would do. Straight to a true old school radiator shop.
6 minutes ago, Captain 80sIf they are coming apart, you might consider installing some Race Tech Cartridge Emulators. They work really good. But they might not be compatible with your Progressive Springs. The ID of those springs is too small to engage the Emulator correctly.
No, i just want to make sure stuff is still where it should be, new dusters and seals, oil and air.
I'll never ride the bike again other than around the block, i'm too beat up for that. I even sold my bike lift years ago lol
I just want to give the old girl a little respect she deserves and and leave something that reflects me.
The right fork looks surprisingly good! The top "guide" has some gouging from dirt but just the teflon, I'm not worried, the wear will be in a different spot when reassembled.
The "slider" looks amazing, it still had the .001 shim I put behind it in the early days. I haven't cleaned up and looked at the lower tube for wear but as clean as the oil was, i'm not expecting a problem there.
The upper tube is bent by .016 the book says .010 is the service limit. I think I can get it much better if i could get my hands on a arbor press for a couple mins. Grrrr.
Here are a couple pics
Weather in Ohio is amazing!
I straighten fork tubes in my press no problem too. I have a couple hard wood v-blocks and then mount the tube in my wheel stand and spin with a run-out gauge to check and mark where if more is needed. Easy as shit, pretty much like your setup. Nice.
Is that your pre-load spacer?
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5 hours ago, Captain 80sI straighten fork tubes in my press no problem too. I have a couple hard wood v-blocks and then mount the tube in my wheel stand and spin with a run-out gauge to check and mark where if more is needed. Easy as shit, pretty much like your setup. Nice.
Is that your pre-load spacer?
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Yes lmao..! I raided my dads garage and stole his PVC... Father forgive me lol.
I swear working on this thing is like opening a time capsule...
My saving grace on this project is; the guy that had the bike before my son got it, bought the bike not running and with broken carbs. He never could get it running and stored it in the back of his shop. So the bike is in pretty good condition, but let go mechanically. The guy should have looked a little closer under the carbs, he would have looked down pretty smooth in & ex ports. The pistons were weight matched and balanced with the crank and the crank was balanced to come alive between 8k - 10.5k rpm. I honestly don't know how that happens... I would think, once balanced, its balanced at all rpm's within reason of course.
Anyway, i know it runs, its going to handle very well, i hope and it might look pretty good too.
24 minutes ago, tsmittyYes lmao..! I raided my dads garage and stole his PVC... Father forgive me lol.
I swear working on this thing is like opening a time capsule...
I've never seen capped spacers... I like it. Whatever works and is in the garage at the time.
2 minutes ago, tsmittyMy saving grace on this project is; the guy that had the bike before my son got it, bought the bike not running and with broken carbs. He never could get it running and stored it in the back of his shop. So the bike is in pretty good condition, but let go mechanically. The guy should have looked a little closer under the carbs, he would have looked down pretty smooth in & ex ports. The pistons were weight matched and balanced with the crank and the crank was balanced to come alive between 8k - 10.5k rpm. I honestly don't know how that happens... I would think, once balanced, its balanced at all rpm's within reason of course.
Anyway, i know it runs, its going to handle very well, i hope and it might look pretty good too.
My neighbor works on Triumphs a lot. He has cranks balanced for different rev ranges and usages. I think it has to do with primary and secondary balance and vibration (???). A 90 degree V-4 has perfect primary balance. Black magic whatever it is. I've only trued single cranks, let alone balance anything. Let the Pros do what they do.
Interesting spacer; you would want that to be open to the air otherwise it will behave like you have a very high oil level.
4 minutes ago, TerryInteresting spacer; you would want that to be open to the air otherwise it will behave like you have a very high oil level.
But if everything is compensated (like oil level and pre-load) to your liking...
I was made to think about this in discussions with our local suspension guru who was working on my MT-10 Ohlins forks (which I wanted softened on sharp bumps beyond what the adjusters could do). He went to the trouble of machining down the spacer to ensure that it occupied as little volume as possible, as anything that reduces the air volume over the oil causes quite a steep increase in effective spring rate as the fork is compressed. But you are quite correct that a closed tubular spacer would be OK provided the volume of fork oil was reduced to offset the volume.
Oh hell I never gave it that kind of thought. I was just a wrench turner. Progressive Suspension said the stock spacers had to be shortened and I didn't want to destroy the stockers. Thanks for the fork lesson Terry, it'll take a minute to wrap my head around that. The spacers do have holes in the ends but.
So aluminum tube cut to length and swiss cheese the walls?
I'm all about it!
I'll over think this one through Fall! lol
No need to swiss-cheese, just have open-space at ends to expose internal volume. The caps on yours is so spacer actually stops spring instead of dropping into centre and doing nothing (because pipe chosen was too small in diameter). Factory config uses wide washer in that place.
[image: uc?export=download&id=1we5PTW9FVsBtaOMwQ]
Spacers don't do anything but provide a stop for spring. Lower the stop (longer spacer) the more preload spring has and this lifts front-end. Shorter spacer lets spring relax more and has less preload and lowers front-end.
For example, factory spacer and spring on top of this photo.
[image: uc?export=download&id=1-2nGwnxYLd83fA4h2]
Stiffer upgrade spring on bottom has thicker and fewer coils, resulting in shorter overall length. Just need to keep overall total length same since fork is still same length. So make custom PVC spacer to result in exact same total length as stock.
Softer springs have more coils and are longer. So to fit them, you need shorter spacer to give more room for spring with same overall length as stock. Basically going in opposite direction as above.
Yeah, what Danno said. As long as air can pass through the spacer then all is good and no need to go the full Swiss Cheese route.
Thanks for the schooling.
Can someone give me that length, I don't have the stock springs or spacers to measure from.
Thanks for the input all!
I've found set up instructions typically have a preload starting point of 20mm (for a proper spring rate according to your weight / usage).
That's usually approximately the length of the threads on the fork cap.
Oil height and preload can then be adjusted to sag numbers and preference. Obviously easier with adjustable caps, but if you have the right springs, you're usually not doing a lot of fiddling.
I'm not a suspension expert by any means, but I've rebuilt and setup a lot of 80's and 90's forks. I've found with the right springs, personal preference tweaks are not likely to totally F things up. Also, I only use straight rate springs.
2 hours ago, Captain 80sI've found set up instructions typically have a preload starting point of 20mm (for a proper spring rate according to your weight / usage).
That's usually approximately the length of the threads on the fork cap.
Oil height and preload can then be adjusted to sag numbers and preference. Obviously easier with adjustable caps, but if you have the right springs, you're usually not doing a lot of fiddling.
I'm not a suspension expert by any means, but I've rebuilt and setup a lot of 80's and 90's forks. I've found with the right springs, personal preference tweaks are not likely to totally F things up. Also, I only use straight rate springs.
Thanks Capin' , I had prob 1/2in more preload than the cap threads, but I will make that change when I assemble. I did a butt-load of sport touring/camping W.VA with the bike, that would explain the stiffer spring set up plus...I just wasn't that good, to assess and make suspension changes, at the track, there were just too many other things I was spending my attention on while i was out there.
Nice!
This is "Chrissy" reloaded after camping for the weekend with the family outside of Winthrop WA at Lake Pearygin.
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From our campsite the night before I left.
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Crossed over into Canada for a week long solo trip around NE British Columbia. Had such a great ride.
Right fork started out bent by .016 TIR now at .007
Left fork started out at .007 TIR didn't touch!
Couldn't find a shop that straightens fork!
So I made my own set-up...
I had to flex the fork .300 in to get it to unbend! (check out the pic...
Yeah, no one will touch that shit anymore.
Nice set-up in a pinch! It's kinda freaky how far you have to go to account for spring-back.
Seven thou ain't shit.
Fork oil; the book says use ATF,
I don’t remember, thought I used fork oil, don’t remember what flavor! Any recommendations?? 🙂
They are pretty much the same type fluid.
ATF (approx ~7) will provide good compliance for damper rod forks. 10 wt can slow down the compression (and rebound) a bit, but can be harsher on sharp edge bumps)
I usually run 10 in my damper rod forks. Sometimes I'll make a blend of the same brand for something under 10.
15 is too high in my opinion for these type forks (without emulators).
Thanks Cap!
The fork seals are on their way! I'll be able to fit the forks together and put the front end back on the bike, then move on to the front brake calipers.
While the front valve cover is wide open I might as well as check the valve clearances.
Pretty sure I'll be putting dust and piston seals on the front calipers, still available I think.
Is there a go-to-place to find aftermarket consumables? like brake pads, clutch kits, gaskets...etc
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7 hours ago, tsmittyIs there a go-to-place to find aftermarket consumables? like brake pads, clutch kits, gaskets...etc
I own and build a lot of bikes, so I buy a lot of shit for them. I do the majority of my shopping on ebay, used and new. I've been doing it a long time and am pretty savvy about weeding thru the junk and identifying good deals on the quality items I need (or want).
Individual OEM Honda parts can be hit and miss on ebay due to shipping (like $7.99 shipping on a $2.99 seal). I have put together identical large orders and compared the final cost (including shipping) at Honda Parts sites and found Partzilla to be consistently the best deal for the types of parts I order from them (seals, orings, etc). But when you get all the way thru the order process, most of these places are pretty close to each other in the end.
I admire your savvy Captain, with your full stable of rides and finding piecesparts for them all. What an awesome collection of bikes and a fantastic shop as well!
I can't express how much I miss my lift, the floor work is killing me...I guess that's the "therapy" part of this thread.
I don't know if I should be posting daily updates like this. Nobody's bitched yet...I don't think nobody reading this stuff anyway...
While waiting for parts why not build tools! I found my valve adjusting wrench but no adjuster! So I made one...[image: untitledshoot-0526.thumb.jpg.96b96e17be2b47665f62d1ef91008c14.jpg][image: untitledshoot-0525.thumb.jpg.573904fd32fcad791d46c1d537e135b7.jpg][image: untitledshoot-0522.thumb.jpg.ad2db561042260e3424ec74b1696720c.jpg]
I'm reading. Keep posting, please.
1 hour ago, Captain 80sI'm reading. Keep posting, please.
Same here! Keep posting please.
Right now, I am just riding, the maintenance work wil kick in soon.
Here are the plugs. I'm not real impressed. I don't like how the center electrode is darker around half their peripheries. The exhaust side of the plug as it sets in the cumbustion chamber I assume?
#1 looks leaner than the others and the others look too rich. But I have to remember the bike was a heaping mess when it got delivered into my sons then my hands. I probably won't get to the engine this year so I have time for evaluations and recommendations.
The last time the bike was shut off 2 years ago, my son had no idea the following had happened to the machine;
Stator plug melted off, all three connectors shorted out and in turn the windings.
Plug wires cracked and showing spots of arching.
#1 spark plug boot was cut in half to expose the internals and glued back together.
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Nothing that I wouldn't chance a set of new DPRs with some properly sorted carbs and do a new reading with.
Certainly doesn't look like you will foul new plugs.
9 hours ago, Captain 80sNothing that I wouldn't chance a set of new DPRs with some properly sorted carbs and do a new reading with.
Certainly doesn't look like you will foul new plugs.
No they don't , wish they all looked like #1 though. I'm the one that had the carbs apart last. There is quite the discouraging story cense the old girl came back into my family, the bike got kind of rescued from my son in Wisconsin brought back to Ohio into my garage in boxes. My son got the bike from a guy in Wisconsin that never was able to get the bike over 40mph but loved how the bike handled, he had a working 86 VFR750 that handled like crap compared to this 700 he had told me. I'm not one to pat myself on the back, at all, but when I sold it about 1999-2000ish that bike run and handled very well. Here's the thing, when I picked the bike up from my son's, I had just had spinal fusion of 4 vertebra in my neck and knew my riding days were all but gone, depressed and discouraged of the condition of this pile of shit in my garage I sold everything to my brother in northern Ohio, my lift, specialty tools, everything flippin thing!!
Are you still with me?
So big brother and his son-in-law start their turn with the bike... ... ...carbs, reg/rec, everything!
They changed parts and re-wired for a year or so, now my son buys it back, he's living in Ohio now, with dads (me) help and against dads council, we throw the thing back together, get it running almost right and he takes it home and goes joy riding...The engine did make a lot of power when we finished, but sounded rich, about 1 needle drop worth I would guess. So he lets it sit for 2 years and then "Dad it wont start!" So he trailers it over...
Now the bikes' in my stable, I own it and I HAVE THE FLIPPIN KEY!
So I'll just meander my way through suspension and electricals and find my way to the engine on another day, I know it'll be an expensive day.
Not sure why you think that will be an expensive day. You expect to have to dig into internals? I wouldn't expect to. Those engines are very resilient. Verify/adjust the carbs, check/adjust valve lash, enjoy the glorious sound.
I own 4 86 VFRs, two 700, two 750. Ranging from 50K+ hard miles to 14K. The 50K 750 is the smoothest and quietest engine of the bunch. I have found that every single one of my 86's (and the 3 other VFR's of my friends) has a different personality too. Everything gone thru and adjusted exactly the same by me and they are very different. Not "bad", just different.
When I worked at the Honda Dealership I had two customers well over 100K with no major work. One of them was ridden AS HARD AS F-ING POSSIBLE ALL THE TIME. Zero issues.
Have a friend also with well over 100K on an 87.
Cheers dude! Quite the home coming story.
The only engine internals I’m expecting are stator, along with a mosfet rect. , clutch.
4 minutes ago, tsmittyThe only engine internals I’m expecting are stator, along with a mosfet rect. , clutch.
Yeah... not cheap I suppose. 😉
35 minutes ago, Captain 80sYeah... not cheap I suppose. 😉
I have time, as God gives...besides I'm getting pretty stoke about getting to the front brakes after the forks are done. They were still rock solid, twin braided, and have enough pads to put back together with. They were sticking pushing the bike into the garage, I had to convince them with a soft mallet. The new dusters and seals are on the way lol!
11 minutes ago, tsmittyI have time, as God gives...besides I'm getting pretty stoke about getting to the front brakes after the forks are done. They were still rock solid, twin braided, and have enough pads to put back together with. They were sticking pushing the bike into the garage, I had to convince them with a soft mallet. The new dusters and seals are on the way lol!
I am SO SICK of rebuilding brakes (and cooling systems). Seems it's all I've been doing last few years.
This is hopefully my last set for a while!
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The brakes for my next 2 projects are done. I hate brake fluid.
The finish on the calipers looks nice. I think the original paint on mine is going to clean up pretty respectable. When I do the engine I am going to and have coming a couple free swatches for the covers.
I think my clutch cover look bad-ass. I came across an archived article talking about it. I'll try to find and share. I'm still trying to get used to navigating this place.
27 minutes ago, tsmittyThe finish on the calipers looks nice. I think the original paint on mine is going to clean up pretty respectable. When I do the engine I am going to and have coming a couple free swatches for the covers.
I think my clutch cover look bad-ass. I came across an archived article talking about it. I'll try to find and share. I'm still trying to get used to navigating this place.
I've looked and tried a lot of paints to get an "exotic" look. The original finish is very hard to duplicate and I am fucking done with powder coaters. I had to be something I could spray,
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2 minutes ago, Captain 80sI've looked and tried a lot of paints to get an "exotic" look. The original finish is very hard to duplicate and I am fucking done with powder coaters. I had to be something I could spray,
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So what's the story with the powder coaters..?
23 minutes ago, tsmittySo what's the story with the powder coaters..?
Around here they apparently think they have a doctorate in PC and charge accordingly. And then can't follow the simplest instructions (and markings on the parts) regarding masking and then they get the cheapest person on the payroll to "remove" their fuck ups and refinish the parts. Typically the surfaces that shouldn't have finish are some of the most critical to remain flat and pristine.
I think there are some true hot rod PC-ers up a few counties that can identify that machined surfaces typically shouldn't get powder. But I'm not driving or paying anymore. Not when I get the look, quality, and durability I want at home with paint..
In my area, most are Aerospace or Industrial outfits. It is SO FRUSTRATING to have someone look you in the face and tell you they understand completely and it will be done right, to have it not. Not even close.
2 hours ago, Captain 80sAround here they apparently think they have a doctorate in PC and charge accordingly. And then can't follow the simplest instructions (and markings on the parts) regarding masking and then they get the cheapest person on the payroll to "remove" their fuck ups and refinish the parts. Typically the surfaces that shouldn't have finish are some of the most critical to remain flat and pristine.
I think there are some true hot rod PC-ers up a few counties that can identify that machined surfaces typically shouldn't get powder. But I'm not driving or paying anymore. Not when I get the look, quality, and durability I want at home with paint..
In my area, most are Aerospace or Industrial outfits. It is SO FRUSTRATING to have someone look you in the face and tell you they understand completely and it will be done right, to have it not. Not even close.
Sucks... I'm gunna have to rely on the paint dude someday!
Memory for the day:
Grattan Raceway Park, Belding, MI;
Ok so there's this left hand downhill hair pin, off camber...this is counter normal race direction, so every time i'm hitting this turn I'm dragging my left foot peg making me total loose focus, over correct and off into the mud I go!
Annoyed, I come in a d unscrew the feelers on the foot pegs...STILL into the grass! I was just a novice with a beat up pickup truck and a toolbox about the size of a fishing box...so I pull out a hacksaw and cut about a 1/2 inch or so from the pegs. Problem solved. When I got home I had a guy Tip a ridge on them so my foot wouldn't fall off...
I'm embarrassed to have this in my garage...
You need some of these footpegs:
https://www.scar-racing.com/en/products/456-titanium-footpegs.html
1 hour ago, DannoXYZYou need some of these footpegs:
https://www.scar-racing.com/en/products/456-titanium-footpegs.html
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No more riding barefoot...lol
By popular demand I decided to replace my state of the art fork spacers with some 1" alum. tube...
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The front end is ready to go together but I'm waiting for an aftermarket radiator to come in. Captain80 and I touched on this subject earlier in this topic.
So there's a new aftermarket radiator coming in; after I mount it up and determine if the various mounting locations for the frame and fan are where the're suppose to be ...then the thing goes to Brett at ICW Radiators, he'll make any mounting adjustments and pressure test. What better way to fit the the radiator is if the front of the bike is off.
15 hours ago, tsmittyI'm embarrassed to have this in my garage...
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On the "RC26" I cut the mount off and blended away the remnants. Wasn't fun to make it look good, but the end result is clean and tucks in really nice.
37 minutes ago, Captain 80sOn the "RC26" I cut the mount off and blended away the remnants. Wasn't fun to make it look good, but the end result is clean and tucks in really nice.
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6 minutes ago, Captain 80s[image: PXL_20230502_134716175.thumb.jpg.cf0aeeb63e565164e829bb003e66010f.jpg]
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That does look slick! Thats one of those things where if you didn't tell me...I would be staring at it for hours trying to figure out what's wrong...lol
1 hour ago, tsmittySo there's a new aftermarket radiator coming in; after I mount it up and determine if the various mounting locations for the frame and fan are where the're suppose to be ...then the thing goes to Brett at ICW Radiators, he'll make any mounting adjustments and pressure test. What better way to fit the the radiator is if the front of the bike is off.
I'm interested to hear the feedback regarding what a real radiator guy has to say about these units, and the fitment report from you.
The rubber feeler on the sidestand pre-date the introduction of the sidestand switch. Their purpose is to flick the stand up before you hit hard parts when you have forgotten to raise the stand. I learned (the hard way) that they don't always work when you flick into a slow tight turn really quickly...
4 minutes ago, TerryThe rubber feeler on the sidestand pre-date the introduction of the sidestand switch. Their purpose is to flick the stand up before you hit hard parts when you have forgotten to raise the stand. I learned (the hard way) that they don't always work when you flick into a slow tight turn really quickly...
I keep them on a lot of my bikes when they don't look totally out of place, but I find I'm wanted to clean some things up that didn't use to bother me as much. Probably because I'm buying and building more bikes that never had them.
2 hours ago, TerryThe rubber feeler on the sidestand pre-date the introduction of the sidestand switch. Their purpose is to flick the stand up before you hit hard parts when you have forgotten to raise the stand. I learned (the hard way) that they don't always work when you flick into a slow tight turn really quickly...
lol yeah I get that...I just never wore the rubber thing out before... but I did learn my lesson about the kick stand as well.
Just dug this pic up. This is the bike in 2020 when we thew it together for Jay.
It look very good considering... but I do want to re-hang the plastic.[image: image.thumb.jpeg.e66ae2a54c8f5dd19f483eae3f3481c0.jpeg]
Damn...I was 26 when I drove this bike off the Honda lot...!
The front end is coming along nicely, the forks are straightened, re-bushed and sealed the brakes are rebuilt, slaves and master cylinder. The clutch master is done, just waiting for the slave cup, spring and seal and then I'll be heading South to the rear end. The rear will be getting fresh brakes and rotor (thanks to Captain80 for the insight on a VF500 to VFR700 rotor cross fit), wheel bearings, chain and sprockets and the shock linkage will be looked at and the grease refreshed.
On a side note, I put a wire harness on the bike unknowingly from a 86 FII, the does not fit exactly to my F model without cutting and rewiring. I don't want to cut this harness up, only as a last resort as I think this will be opening up a can of worms.
The stock radiator, as beat-up and wrinkled as it is was tested, repaired by ICW Radiators and will be gladly put back into service. I do have a new aftermarket radiator that I fitted and had tested and boxed up for a back-up or traded should someone need.
So the final takeaway with the front end? Captain80 said it best...."brake fluid sucks" or something like that...
Thats my girl...! So far so good! lol[image: untitledshoot-0668.thumb.jpg.f59c8f316a973217e92abf02f4194cc0.jpg][image: untitledshoot-0667.thumb.jpg.ad2010bd21a5cb5df040edba31fb98ff.jpg]
Thought I would give an update on my bike.
The front end electrical, mechanical, hydraulics and are done. Moving on to the back took a little doing, getting the bike confidently in the air was a bit of a challenge and took some reluctant drilling on the frame. Knowing the frame wound never be considered “collectable” I drilled the stock center stand mount locations to 7/8” to accept a piece of 1/2” “black pipe”. then to the jack stands she goes....floor wrenching sucks! The exhaust collector actually looked better than I thought, Its a Kerker White Tip I put on the bike in 86; it was pre ordered before I picked up the bike. Anyways the finish on the collector is long gone and hardly smooth and I don't know how to or if I should put a top coat on it before going back on the bike. So I removed the rear wheel and found the sprocket carrier dampers installed wrong, leaving full metal to metal contact with the sprocket carrier lugs and the wheel hub drive webs! I am so glad I’m going through this bike piece by piece… The rear brake caliper and master cylinder are all rebuilt, wheel bearings new, sprockets new as well as a new chain when the time comes. So today I'll pre-clean the swing arm linkage before I start pulling those pins. The swing arm has battery acid staining on it and I’m not quite sure how to disguise it. If you made it this far in this story...Thanks!Are you going to weld up the rear caliper support bracket or replace the swingarm?
38 minutes ago, VFR750F3Are you going to weld up the rear caliper support bracket or replace the swingarm?
No; everything is staying stock back there, I'm just removing, cleaning, inspect/repairing and greasing.
The shock is a Fox I put on in the late 80's and I'm quite sure I did set it up correctly! lol I, no doubt will be reaching out for some schooling.
Cleaned up the linkage as best I could. I feel comfortable pulling the linkage pins with minimal damage to the seals.
So tomorrow I'll take a reference measurement from swing arm to sub-frame and take it out and on the bench.
But my neck says I'm done for a day or so.
You can absolutely slide everything apart, clean (tub of gas and a toothbrush) and regrease the bearings, shafts and seals without damaging the seals. Been doing it for decades.
The linkage bearings have a limited travel range and the needle bearings spread the load so much, they rarely "wear out". I have never had to replace bearings or seals after cleaning and inspection. Some shafts might show some wear patterns, but it is not anything that is usually detectable by measuring or tactile "inspection".
31 minutes ago, Captain 80sThe linkage bearings have a limited travel range and the needle bearings spread the load so much, they rarely "wear out".
Thanks Captain, that's very relieving to know!
What are your thoughts on the shock?
I don't know the model number, red coil spring. I have no reason to think anythings wrong but I don't know if it still has any, I guess nitrogen, and sure don't know the pressure it needs.
I ain't looked yet, is shock length in the manual...? lol
54 minutes ago, tsmittyThanks Captain, that's very relieving to know!
What are your thoughts on the shock?
I don't know the model number, red coil spring. I have no reason to think anythings wrong but I don't know if it still has any, I guess nitrogen, and sure don't know the pressure it needs.
I ain't looked yet, is shock length in the manual...? lol
If the shock still has rebound and compression damping and is not leaking, great. If you had a shop near you to recharge the nitrogen, that would be cool. Full service on the Fox Shocks is getting expensive these days, I have 3 I need to have done for future projects. $$$
Stock length on the 86 is 265mm, 87 is 275. The 87 has a different linkage piece (the one that connects to the shock) to compensate, both bikes have the same ride height. Installing a 87 shock on a 86 for extra rear ride height was a popular choice on a budget, and the 87 shock was a "better" shock, the damping circuits were separate. Old tech now, obviously.
Your Fox Twin Clicker is/was a great shock. I would set yours to at least 275, or whatever it is now if already longer.
1 hour ago, Captain 80sYour Fox Twin Clicker is/was a great shock. I would set yours to at least 275, or whatever it is now if already longer.
I'll set the length to 275, clean the shock up and when you come and take the bike out for its evaluation/tuning runs you can give the shock a thumbs up or thumbs down on wether to rebuild or not..lol
While we are on the subject of suspension. How much should I slide the fork tubes up the steering head to compensate for the Hurricane 17" front wheel?
Depends on the tire size. Google tire size calculator to see what the difference in height is. It is not going to make a difference. The answer is 0.1 inches 110 90 16 versus 110 80 17. The most important part of those 37mm forks is throwing on a fork brace 15wt w emulators if I recall correctly removing the anti dive and using a straight spring and not a progressive one. I threw on some modern rubber and better forks 45mm which dropped the front end quite a bit and made big difference from the stock front end. I would get some new dampers if you are serious about handling and adjustability with a wheel than is wider ie F2 3.5" for modern rubber or go with a 130 70 17 if you can find one that made for performance and not touring. I am surprised that Fox shock is not leaking because mine did from just sitting. Had it rebuilt by Daugherty. Also you are better at jacking up the rear end instead of dropping the front end for ground clearance.
28 minutes ago, VFR750F3The most important part of those 37mm forks is throwing on a fork brace 15wt w emulators if I recall correctly removing the anti dive and using a straight spring and not a progressive one.
Thanks for your advise VFR but I need to go with what I have. I just want to make the old girl as mechanically sound as possible, electrical too...going as fast as I can afford..:(
4 hours ago, VFR750F3Depends on the tire size. Google tire size calculator to see what the difference in height is. It is not going to make a difference. The answer is 0.1 inches 110 90 16 versus 110 80 17.
A 110/90-16? Who puts that tire back on? What is the difference from a 120/80-16?
Slide the forks up 10mm to start.
I'm all about getting that ass in the air, but the geometry of that bike can take getting the front down a bit too. Plus you don't need it tilting at 45 degrees on the side stand with the stock 18" rear. I have some VFRs with forks slid up more than that with a 2.5-17 wheel and there are no clearance issues and it is solid as can be with zero hints of any head shake.
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If you're going to have a tire size rabbit hole for us, use actual sizes, which rarely have anything to do with the size on the sidewall.
No rabbit hole. Just experience. Don't turn this into something it's not. Starting points is all we're talking about.
Respectfully, I was not trying to make this an oil thread.
PLEASE DON'T.
8 hours ago, Captain 80sStarting points is all we're talking about.
Captain, I would venture to say that we're just talking restoring points here. I just want to bring the bike back to a point that my son remembers, that he learned how to ride on, I want to make this machine worthy enough to accept my grandson or granddaughters butt on the seat and at the controls.
My son and I want the bike as I sold it back in 2000ish; and your right about the starting points, just the basics.
I just want to get the rolling chases complete as is; there are bigger fish to fry with this project and my financial and physical frypan has lost its teflon...and the handle fell off...into the fire...gone..!
Well the linkage is out and the swing arm off! No major issues just grime! Tons of grime!
I have to say; whoever fitted the shock clevis to the linkage knuckle is a fu#%ing idiot! They should have used shims on both sides of the clevis pivot bolt instead of just tightening the bolt to death!! Not quite a smooth pivot action. The bad news is....it was me, probably 29 year old at the time...self proclaimed genius ! lmao
I'll fix it... At least I'm off the floor doing bench work and the chassis is very close to complete.
1 hour ago, tsmittyWell the linkage is out and the swing arm off! No major issues just grime! Tons of grime!
I have to say; whoever fitted the shock clevis to the linkage knuckle is a fu#%ing idiot! They should have used shims on both sides of the clevis pivot bolt instead of just tightening the bolt to death!! Not quite a smooth pivot action. The bad news is....it was me, probably 29 year old at the time...self proclaimed genius ! lmao
I'll fix it... At least I'm off the floor doing bench work and the chassis is very close to complete.
The only thing it sounds like 29 year old you did wrong was not use a torque wrench. Hell, a couple of the bolts I don't bother on either because the access is so bad.
The lower clevis mount used to bug me too, it didn't make sense. Why would every other bolt have a bearing and shaft and allow for movement? I have the correct parts, nothing is missing and there is a torque value in the Service Manual. It was designed by Honda that way and I just stopped worrying about it. With it all assembled, the movement is smooth and not binding.
I realized that it doesn't need to pivot. The way the linkage is designed, everything else is responsible for pivoting. What little fore/aft movement the shock does need is handled by the upper shock mount.
3 hours ago, Captain 80sWith it all assembled, the movement is smooth and not binding.
right. Not worried, The pin or sleeve tapped out of the knuckle bushings easy enough and had some flailing on the ends but all that got addressed. I don't have the shock off yet but the fitment should be a little better this time around. lol torque wrench on standby...
4 hours ago, Captain 80sWhy would every other bolt have a bearing and shaft and allow for movement?
Yeah its like roller bearings everywhere then all of a sudden bushings and a thin walled tube. The regular engineer was sick that day and Hank took over...
I don't know if its a load thing but why such thin walled sleeve!? I do have the means to ream those bushings nice and square with the world and make an actual pin, it won't be hardened but who cares. I'm not feeling it though...lol
The spring is just applying some pressure to hold the needle down in place. As long as the needle can float side to side a bit, your fine.
Thanks a lot Captain, Looks like I'm ready to clean and assemble, other than the float level thing. I can get those a lot closer than that!
Im measuring from the bowl sealing surface to the top of that flange thats on the float ends.
I'll leave the diaphragms alone. Jay tells me I got them new 3 years ago, probably ebay, probably China; they look and fit well no pin holes or tears. All the rubber for that matter other than boots is probably China from then as well.
Don't think I'm missing anything.
Later
Float height is measured from the sealing surface to the bottom of the float farthest away from the surface. You need to rotate the carbs to where the floats are almost "hanging", and the float tang is contacting the float valve button (float valve fully seated of course), but not depressing it. 7mm.
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Some people use actually fuel heights with clear tubing. I have never done that, as I have never had issues or the need.
Having my morning coffee....reading through yesterdays stuff. Dude its going to take me over an hour to put those 3 little teeny linkage springs in place!
1 hour ago, tsmittyHaving my morning coffee....reading through yesterdays stuff. Dude its going to take me over an hour to put those 3 little teeny linkage springs in place!
Back the adjuster screws way off or remove if you haven't already to maximize the gap. You can manipulate the linkage a bit with your fingers to upen it up for install too. Last week I was able to install by hand by getting the spring over the holding nub first and then pushing it into place. I have also used small needle nose.
Well Captain, your 1 hr. record still stands haha!
My carbs are clean and together with alum fuel tubes, the main jet holder in the configuration Captain 80's suggested.
The problem I was having was marrying the carbs back together; I was having binding issues, the carbs wound not lay on the plenum flat.
Long story short, the two fuel tubes interfere with each outer at the carb #3 fuel entry point. Quite a bit actually,
The problem was fixed with a round file on the tubes. They have huge wall thickness so no real concerns there.
Here is the finished pictures of the carbs being rotated around for your inspections if you don't mind...
Look good. Weird about the fuel tubes. I've installed 2 sets now and didn't have any fitment issues. Did you take a little out of both tubs at that spot?
EDIT: I see that you did.
You seemed to have missed some corrosion on the vacuum slide caps. {wink} I sandblasted the exteriors before and gave them a ceramic paint finish... that no one ever sees, but looks good in progress pics.
I can't tell for sure, but I think you need to swap your float bowl locations so the limiting tab is on the other side and doesn't impede adjusting your pilot screws more than one revolution either direction.
Oh... and that was one hour back running. {double wink}
4 minutes ago, Captain 80sDid you take a little out of both tubs at that spot?
Yes I did. Now you can nudge the fuel tubes and se their floating in place just a tiny bit.
5 minutes ago, Captain 80sYou seemed to have missed some corrosion on the vacuum slide cap.
Therapy... to combat the Adrian Monk in me. As I ride that cap will haunt me!
Thanks for spotting those bowls, I'll look before I leak test them tonight.
Well, its been a minute, here's the latest. The shock is on its way home!
New radiator cap, hoses, o-rings and thermostat. (no water pump stuff)
The carbs hold gas and are installed, engine is filled up, buttoned up and ready to test.
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The exhaust is cleaned up a little; the old Kerker White Tip collector has a couple more years left, the can is home made about 1995ish[image: image.thumb.jpeg.0aa6eb35a710de001f4a77e0743538a2.jpeg] the Yosh. end cap was a donation from a long passed riding buddy, he sent it to me when I hit a deer with the bike up in Northern Wisconsin that when I wiped what was left of the old Kerker can. (fun times)
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So just occupying my time garage, hopefully this weekend the bike will be on her own two feet and we'll see if the old girl will fire up. P.S. started playing with the bodywork...
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Woo-hoo!!!!
Keep those updates coming Smitty, you're getting close. Lots of fun following your progress, and admiring all the stuff I am not skilled enough to accomplish myself.
Maybe an egoistic request, but ...:
If rear fender and heat shield is off, would it possible to have a picture from behind to see the routing of the rear downpipes? Mainly because I am preparing myself for a rear downpipe replacement on my '89 😁
56 minutes ago, rc24dkMaybe an egoistic request, but ...:
If rear fender and heat shield is off, would it possible to have a picture from behind to see the routing of the rear downpipes? Mainly because I am preparing myself for a rear downpipe replacement on my '89 😁
Your 89 will be different than 86/87
59 minutes ago, rc24dkIf rear fender and heat shield is off
But on a positive note...I found more dirty spots...:([image: Torque-1076.thumb.jpg.6082d9f371ac06cd1e159141a48f1c01.jpg][image: Torque-1074.thumb.jpg.8d25f2d4acd20b712cdff63ea7d05ba9.jpg][image: Torque-1073.thumb.jpg.8b504bae1c2c15921cf84cbd002cf007.jpg]
1 hour ago, rc24dkMaybe an egoistic request, but ...:
If rear fender and heat shield is off, would it possible to have a picture from behind to see the routing of the rear downpipes? Mainly because I am preparing myself for a rear downpipe replacement on my '89 😁
Totally and utterly different... I won't clutter up this thread with pictures of the FJ/K but if you want to start your own thread I've got a load of pictures from mine as well as my experience with replacing them!
Thanks tsmitty. It was mainly a look to get feeling for how accessible the studs are and your picture gives that quite well. Man, do these downpipes look clean and nice condition.
Thanks very much Fastdruid for the offer.
10 minutes ago, rc24dkMan, do these downpipes look clean and nice condition.
Yes rc... I've been very happy with the overall condition of the bike, and I get so amazed at the exhaust plumbing and how that stuff is made! What an art.
I think I said it before; my saving grace with this bike is during the 14 unaccounted for years the bike was crached at least once, the plastic glued back together, then the carbs got broken and the bike was pushed in a garage until years later my son happened across it in a newspaper or something.
St. Stephen, 9/27/2023 at 2:48 PMI am not skilled enough to accomplish myself.
we all have are strengths, I heavily rely on the guys here...
The rear end is going back together; the new (rebuilt) shock showed up today and mommy and daddy are so happy!
The piece is amazing! Its set up for 275m B/C's, 175 lb rider and Fox standard settings for the bike. Thor also sent a copy of the instruction sheets.
This is going to take a minute to get the rear together, yesterdays and todays floor work has about kicked my ass...
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Captain 80s thanks for your help and advise on the linkage problem I had!
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Fuck. I gotta get the Fox for the 92 out.
Killer
39 minutes ago, Captain 80sKiller
Yea he did a great job! Thanks for the referral.
The rear tire didn't have air in it, so it went to the shop to get dismounted cleaned up , new stem and remounted. The guy said the wheel had so much shit built up the bead wouldn't seat...I figured as much the front was the same way, well all fixed now and I'll balance tomorrow.
11 hours ago, tsmittyYea he did a great job! Thanks for the referral.
That's good to hear. My suspension guy who I have known since college, retired for family medical reasons and said he's the guy. He was more of a vintage / evolution off-road specialist, but knew his shit on these types of shocks. So when I looked at Thor Lawson's stuff, I knew it was the right choice for a lot of my needs.
My Father-in-law told me this years ago:
Good / Fast / Cheap... pick any two.
Sometimes these days you settle for just the one that matters... Good.
Cheers dude.
10 hours ago, Captain 80sGood / Fast / Cheap... pick any two.
That's a consulting term from one of the big three. Applies nearly anywhere!
What a great day! The bike seems to run well. Took it for a nice easy ride, pulls very smooth at about 60% throttle up to about 8000.
13.4 at idle, 13.8 at 5000rpm
Rear brake bleed is no good...do over..
Rear brake light switch is intermittent.
Front brake light switch is not working, i hear it clicking but i really haven't looked yet.
I'm flippin tired!
IMG_1087.MOVSounding and looking good! Great job so far.
1 hour ago, Captain 80sGreat job so far.
Thanks Captain! I am so thankful it seems like the Starter Clutch/Timing issue is resolved.
I'm starting to clean up and photograph plastic and the cracks and breakage of the pieces.
But Back to the engine... The carbs need synced. The hanging throttle might go away then.?
The video was about 10-15 minute after initial start. Lot of smoking as cleaning junk and shit burning off the rear down pipes. Fuck its been a long time since I've herd my bike! And she seems to sound bad ass!
All the brake light issues are done.
Many times hanging throttle is a lean condition on idle circuit. Try turning the pilot screws out a half turn and see if it changes at all.
It was a beautiful cool night in Ohio last night, so I asked my son Jay to take the bike out for a mildly aggressive shake down ride, no turn signals, plates (aledigedly) but who cares, it won't be my ticket! I wanted a 2nd gear roll-on to an easy shift into 3rd. at about red. Jay said she preformed well, the engine was strong. He had a big smile on his face, and the old girl sounded very nice. Would have rather had one of the seasoned VFR qualified guys here do about an 80% shakedown...
Anyways...lets get her clothes back on...
Yes!!
Have my Old Fashioned ready for me when I get back from the shakedown.
Did the hanging idle persist?
2 hours ago, Captain 80sDid the hanging idle persist?
No it seems to be gone and thanks for the tip.
It was cool last night and probably could be a bit leaner...:)
But it fires right up with very little choke, the sync will have to stay as is from the bench.
The garage even smelled like a warm VFR!
Ok...
The Plastic...
I don't want to repaint any exterior surfaces, actually the exterior cracks are fine, I just want to arrest the cracking on the inside.
The tail piece and side covers are original with original paint and signage (i think). The tail had 3 out of 4 of the mounts broken off and repaired with safety wire. There was a crack at the light I fixed with Plastex and a piece of fiber. cloth.
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Wired and fitted to the stock rubbers and collars and i think it will outlast me, and no one will see it.
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The tail was done a while back and the side covers got done last week. The each had a button (don't know what to call them) broken off.
This is where I started playing with Plastex and molding parts. On the one arrowhead was savable and used to mold for the other side cover with no arrowhead and vise versa for the button looking ones.
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The Left side had the arrowhead and standoff wiped off and thats where i built up the standoff and used the Plastex molded arrowhead.
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Well here's how the lowers went.
I'm using this plastic repair kit and its molding blocks.
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A hot plate wasn't in the budget so an old halogen light warmed up the molding material enough.
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Both the lowers have been repaired and repainted in the past by PO's so I'm just doing a patch up and hopefully some prettifying.
The Right Lower has relatively little damage and was used to make the molds for two spots for left side repairs.
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Left side sucked.
I had a interference fit with my radiator savers I never saw before at the intake snorkel mounting screw and the just got compounded by my rectifier mount bolt.
Top middle Duz receiver was all busted up along with the trailing lower screw hole.
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The cloth on the back there is some stuff I got 15 years ago its like a ABS impreginated cloth i got from a theatrical supply for some model ship building; you soak the stuff in Acitone and put it on your plastic and it hardens and becomes one with the plastic, I used it hereto just to add some support. I also used it to build the side cover arrowhead stand-off.
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Pretty crafty work there dude. Look for my boxes of bodywork from The Guest/Rain Bike to show up soon.
1 hour ago, Captain 80sPretty crafty work there dude
I don't know man ...all flippin new to me! But thanks.
I'll start seeing if everything still fits in place.
WTF is this?
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Please tell this aint stock! I don't remember this thing.
This is what I have for lower stand-offs.
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The bottom one kinda resembles it current owner; bent up and scared up but still willin...lol
1 hour ago, Captain 80sLook for my boxes of bodywork from The Guest/Rain Bike to show up soon.
need a hot plate...mama says my VFR budget is wiped... lol
19 minutes ago, tsmittyI don't know man ...all flippin new to me! But thanks.
I'll start seeing if everything still fits in place.
WTF is this?
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Please tell this aint stock! I don't remember this thing.
This is what I have for lower stand-offs.
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The bottom one kinda resembles it current owner; bent up and scared up but still willin...lol
The top is the replacement style stay for the bottom original. Less likely to break off and leave the threads in the frame.
1 minute ago, Captain 80sThe top is the replacement style
I thought something like that was the case, that thing looks like shit...my opinion.
If I ever get a Harbor Freight Lathe that is my first project.
My friend created some pretty decent looking replacements with some metric all-thread, thick wall aluminum tubing, and a long hex nut (w/ thin lock nut) for the bodywork fastener to thread into.
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It was meant as a band aid, but he just kept them.
Hell yea! Great idea!
The location of those two mounts seem to be non adjustable and constant other than rotation: am I overthink this or is that a major factor in the position of the Cowl? Did that make any sense.....
An original style (undamaged) mount is absolutely straight. If your lowers don't match up, your problem is upstream.
Captain 80s, 10/18/2023 at 3:25 PMIf your lowers don't match up, your problem is upstream.
I got the lowers to match up, the cowl looks close but its jacked up at the sub frame, it was all bent up before, so now there is an interference with the clutch lever and top of the cowl by the mirror area, with about an inch on the brake lever side. feeling overwhelmed...
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Time to step back, take a break and regroup...
You'll get it! Major progress so far.
Take the gauges back out. That way you can slide a bar into the frame work of the upper cowl stay and manipulate it around. Also pay attention to the mirror mounts (independent of the cowl stay itself), they like to move when crashed and can play a big part in locating the upper cowl.
Also, how does your frame look where the stops on the lower triple hit it? If impressed on one side more than the other, they will allow the steering lock to travel farther and can make it seem like the upper cowl stay is off.
When you're all done, then reinstall the gauges.
Thanks bmart and Captain, I'll take out the gauges and start fresh tomorrow.
Trying...
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The cowl's a little crooked...I don't think I can get it out...
That looks pretty good now.
Hey... nice inner fairing panels too! Where in the hell did you score those?
1 hour ago, Captain 80sThat looks pretty good now.
Hey... nice inner fairing panels too! Where in the hell did you score those?
Thanks!
A good friend found those, they're perfect! The right panel had a crack that I repaired with the cloth stuff I spoke of earlier and I manipulated the mounts and panel holes as respectively as I could so they both go on with no twists at all. Thank God and Bless friends.
The cowl is aftermarket fiberglass with the original paint, I think. I has the two lower mount holes for the headlight but no top mount, I'm sure the decal/paint is off location and the turn signal locations look like swiss cheese.
Solvoset is the name of the fabric stuff.
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Got this stuff a while ago 2007 looks like.
I don't plan any top cote other than cleaning conditioner.
Cowl issues:
Top headlight mount to create. If needed?
Cowl to windscreen fit is farkle! The fit was bad but seems much worse after hanging on the wall for a year.
Do these things curl in on themselves? Is this reversible?
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You can likely start "training" it back with some blankets and appropriately placed weighted items before trying to mount and possibly cracking.
13 hours ago, tsmittyThe cowl's a little crooked...I don't think I can get it out...
It's such a horrifically complicated asymmetric shape that's it's always going to be problematic to straighten perfectly.
Same issue with the rear indicator sub-subframe on the 88-89 bikes. The number I see with wonky indicators because it's almost impossible to straighten it.
3 hours ago, FastdruidIt's such a horrifically complicated asymmetric shape
Man! Tell me about it! I'm so glad I got it as close as I did. My rear turn signal tabs got hacked off... I'll cross that bridge later...
I have a lot of "cross that bridge later's" on this thing. ha
12 hours ago, Captain 80sYou can likely start "training" it back
I will do that Caption, I have a lay-out board in the basement where I can work on that thru the winter.
Today I'll get things ready for headlight mounting and front flush mount turn signals, there's sure enough holes to choose from up there.
What a gorgeous bike, still gives me chill as the day I brought it home. Beat up a little now but still so fucking Hot!
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Thank you Captian80s, what a touch of class the In-Fill panels gave her...just can't express my gratitude...
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I have a stripe for the tank but as you can see the blue/white transition on the tank is way off location. So thats an expensive project for another day.
Through the winter I'll try to make some turn signal mounts for the rear, the mounts on the grab rails were hacked off and my son was going to put some pointy LED things sticking out of the fender...!the holes are already drilled..! (I'm weeping inside right now) But hell no! I refuse to stick anything out of the fender! I'll make something, hell there's enough of my home made shit hanging off this thing. haha
31 minutes ago, tsmittythe holes are already drilled..!
But really, that was just some of the stuff that was done years ago.
Captain 80s, 4/9/2023 at 1:52 PMDon't think I have ever seen welded on radiator protectors like that before.
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Pretty sure you can see a radiator repair from before these were welded on?
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Anyway, that's pretty cool. And with a replaceable skid pad?
And looks like the crankcase cover has a plate welded up to it too. Did that on both sides of my CBR600F2 race bike.
Wow Mike, the old girl sure has come a long way sense 2019ish.
To you, rc and everybody that participated in this therapy project; thanks for all the help, comments, criticisms, advise and giftings along the way. I sure wish I could have rode with you guys but thank God you all took this journey with me.
I think the bike runs and handles well, at least that's what my son tells me, and sense this the only VFR I've ever riden I would sure welcome an evaluation run from the Captain! (Whenever you can schedule that in...)
As for the replicable skid pad...it got the bracket welded on there and then I realized 1/4 inch too short... drill and tap time! haha
Too many memories to share for a two finger typer like myself.
I hope I've preserved this bike to a point where it won't get pushed out back and let waste away. I hope when I'm dead and gone the family will look and smile at Grampa's old bike...
Ok so I'm not ready to "Archive" this thread this bike or me for that matter and I'm sure tired of looking at this every time I run to the garage...
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So when the bike got parked last and sitting on her side stand, we had an isolated incident; the clutch master dribbled onto my nice in-fill panel!! ! Oh no no no...
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I think I can doctor the panel to look good again but this won't do. So my Christmas present for myself was a new set of "stock" caps, plastic things and boots!(boots on the way) (screws are amazon stock) Just a little bling.
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I know I'm just a caretaker now...but its my bike..!
Next I want to try to replace this thing!
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God, I hate brake fluid.
haha red rubber grease ranks right up there too... My sons is a submariner so of course he had to taste it. He said its not that bad...
5 minutes ago, Captain 80sGod, I hate brake fluid.
I'm thinking/hoping this is a problem of the past.
The cockpit view of the bike will look so sweet with the stock caps in place. The red aftermarket caps did nothing for me.
I'm still thinking rear turn signal options, I like what you did with the "guest bike".
At least Red Rubber Grease doesn't destroy finishes on contact.
Amen Brother...
Captain 80s, 10/18/2023 at 2:24 PMThe top is the replacement style stay for the bottom original. Less likely to break off and leave the threads in the frame.
Nothing better to do right now so thought I would try to give these a make over. (these are my lower cowl/frame stand-offs)
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So I got some material from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NM7ZVGH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details each stick yields 2 parts. I got 2 sticks. I also got some threaded rod in both x6x1.00 and m8x1.25 Captain 80s tells me the original stock standoff had m6 turned threads, I'll use studs. All the other dimensions are wide open on this piece.[image: image.thumb.jpeg.351c1ba99e57eab014201c9ca71f4315.jpeg]
All I have is a drill press os the outside angles and minor diameter will have to wait until I can get my hands on a cheap lathe. Anyways I have 4 pieces cut, filed to length and waiting to be center drilled and tapped on each end. [image: image.thumb.jpeg.6a6d52bbc6eec0e8c321e9a5b57f4730.jpeg]
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Waiting on an indicator holder so I can center that in being its so close to the chuck.
Oh yea, this is how I filed them to length...got to do what ya got to do...
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with drill press running...
I'm full of smiles; the look of the stock master caps compared to the red aftermarket things.
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The cowl stand-offs are drilled, I could stick the studs in now and install but I want to try to come up with a way to put nice looking wrench flats on them.[image: image.thumb.jpeg.c6f021703d1da93e03b61d38962ae36d.jpeg]
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I only need to make a .039 depth of cut, the tricky part will be indexing 180 deg. to cut the other side...
Got a feeling I'll be re-aligning the cowl after putting these straight ones on.
So I got a cheap set of collet blocks and a 12mm collet to produce the flats, it turned out pretty good for a drill press.
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A shot of flat black would be good
Is it a weird angle, or did you make it slightly longer than stock?
Yes their about 1/16 long, I didn't think it was a big deal. (I can't lie, filling these things to length sucked.)
Wish I had that Harbor Freight lathe; I think it would be pretty easy to put the stock outside profile on this material.
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Nice butt...
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Rumor has it there is a pillion cowl in the works for "Her Highness"...
So as any expectant father would do...overthink the details.
My question has to do with my seat and reducing excessive movement and stress to the cowl; with no load on it, my seat has a little rock to it and its noticeable one of the front tabs is broken off as that side pulls away from the fuel tank more than the other side.
Are there suppose to be any rubber pads between the 4 seat feet and the sub frame?
What are the two threaded holes in the subframe that are at the same location where the two forward seat feet rest?
Is there a fix for the seat tab?
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Thanks to whoever's still reading this stuff
There are no rubber pads between the seat and the subframe on these bikes. But I think they did put some thin foam strips on either side of the latch.
Honda subframes have always had "artifacts" like extra threaded bosses. Don't know if they were future proofing for changes are possible requirements for different markets. My 92 and 95 VFRs have extra 12mm threaded bosses in the sides of the subframe and marked panels that can be removed from the inner fender. They sure look like they were put there for possible Hondaline luggage or racks that never materialized.
The plastic the seat pans are made of is kinda weird, I don't think it takes to repairs very well.
tsmitty, 1/29/2024 at 7:11 AMNice butt...
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That needs a plug...
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I know...it might take some convincing though.
Wow, got my pillion cowl from sixdog today...its firkin Beautiful!
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Terry, 8/8/2023 at 11:43 PMHonda marine make a nice 12v voltmeter. I had one mounted on my ST1100 that looked like a factory fitment.[image: IMG_3027.thumb.JPG.6a216dab4a08c16b365e944e2238707e.JPG]
Well...I've been kicking this concept around ever since the repair of the bikes original busted up stock gauges...so I got a volt gauge last year and realized it fits perfectly into the "temp" gauge bezel of the stock cluster. Does this look too weird?
I had to fix the busted bezel first with a bandaid.
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But this idea may involve altering the in-fill panel, that thought about sickens me
I didn't put the rubber overlay on for these pics.
I think it's kinda cool. Def unique. But would you have to modify an inner fairing panel for clearance?
1 minute ago, Captain 80sI think it's kinda cool. Def unique. But would you have to modify an inner fairing panel for clearance?
I think it might and the thought is not a pleasant one. If I can raise the bezel up a little maybe no, thats what I'm going for. The gauge and bezel will be mounted independent the Tach. I already trimmed the long ass terminal screws of the temp/g but plenty room to trim more.... I think I can pull this off without harming anything actually. Including those panels...
Is the temp gauge as deep? Maybe swap locations.
So if I pivot the bezel closer to the mirror mount, I can still just manipulate the "trip counter", more trimming of the V/M connectors, surface mounted bracket from the mirror m/post???? Long story short, there is clearance and everything can be reversible. I plan to do the same for the wire harness.
So do you thing the Honda gods would be pleased or should I go with full concealment..?
Go for it. Everything you've done so far is pretty sano. If you don't like it, you'll know.
This is the clearance behind the volt gauge after trimming the terminals.
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Inching forward, I did some reinforcing to the underside of the bezel.
I added some curved plastic from scrap to better allow the assembly to nest to the tach-o, that fabric stuff I have is flippin awesome at this, I still went by later with Plastex in the corners of the unions to make me feel better but I'm sure wasn't necessary, that fabric holds quite well.
Fixed the threaded incerts for securing the meter.
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Any thoughts?
I think it's gonna be cool and unique.
What are your attachment points, on the gauge and bike?
16 minutes ago, Captain 80sWhat are your attachment points, on the gauge and bike?
ummm..we have a crew of our brightest engineers...we are just hours away...
I'm going to try to bring a bracket from under the left mirror mount, so it won't interfere too much with the speedo moving around.
Also looked at a bracket going down to a mount just under the speedo mount and fab up my own damper.
Or both.
Possible bracket running alongside the speedometer and zip-tie the volt assembly to the tach. assembly, but thought that might be too much load on the two speedhometer damped mounts.
What do you see here?
I would try and independently mount it from the upper cowl / mirror stay area personally. And / or try and bridge across form the area the tach mounts to.
On the volt meter side, using the mount hole with a rubber washer for a little cushion.
The knob for the trip counter is directly behind, so any brackets has to come around that...
1 minute ago, Captain 80sI would try and independently mount it from the upper cowl / mirror stay area personally
Yup.
Its warming up in the garage to work out there for a few. I'm going to work that angle. That one mount lug on the bezel looks plenty stout enough to hold the assembly.
Then try to come up under the mirror mount nut?
We'll see where this goes...
The wire harness plugs in at the left turn running lights plug.
Moving right along...here is what I have so far.
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I don't think a hose clamp will be strong enough to secure the 1/8x3/4 steel bracket I'm using for the bezel to the mirror stay by its self.
Maybe a small anti-rotation bolt at the bottom of the bracket and hose clamp?
What do you think...
I think the vise grips should be a perfect place to mount a skeleton hand mirror...
No hose clamps. Don't sink to that level at this point.
Here's an idea and it's simple, effective, strong and something Honda does.
Get some mild steel tubing. Heat and press flat with some aluminum chunks, radius them for a smooth "smush" transition. Then figure out the rotation / length to connect the meter and the mirror stud off the bottom.
Here's an example from something I did for the 92
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While the tubing is still in the "presses" and warm you can best guess an angle, but can be adjusted later.
That sure looks like a pretty straight piece with a ~80 deg rotation.
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I'll see what I can come up with.
There'll wave to be some kind of dog leg on the piece and it will rest on top of the mirror mount pad area being sandwiched between the pad and the mirror hardware. Bringing the bracket up under the pad is too complicated because the pad piece is stamped and gusseted around the edge down there...(thinking out loud)
The mount holes on the bracket will have to be so large on the mirror end, dictating tube stock diameter.?. 1/16 wall thickness
Thanks for the input Captain, stay tuned...
You can also L bracket with some thin stainless sandwiched in the mirror, and then come over with whatever. I do that quite often too as the extra joint gives you some adjustability.
Captain 80s, 2/23/2024 at 10:15 PM[image: PXL_20240224_025711977.thumb.jpg.dc45dab6f99379ca25daaff7f80cc093.jpg]
While the tubing is still in the "presses" and warm you can best guess an angle, but can be adjusted later.
Whats your technique for making the crimp look good?
Cant lie...I tried my idea until I started forcing it to work.
So you think 1/2 od tube will work? 3/8? I'll have to see what Lowe's has.
Still...those clean crimps you're creating there are sweet.
Yeah, I touched on it earlier. Alum blocks that I radius the edges a bit on for my "dies".
Get the tube set up in the press at the depth / angle / rotation I want, heat it up good and smush the fuck out of it.
The mild steel tubing you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes works really good, but the inventory on it has been low in the last couple years. I ordered some from a local steel supplier, but didn't like the composition as much. It wanted to crack a little on the edges of the smush.
Aerospace titanium on the other hand smushes real nice, but shaping and drilling after isn't as easy. And it doesn't paint as nice.
I think 3/8 after smush has enough real estate for a big enough hole. And likely matches what the upper cowl stay is made of.
that mirror stay is 1/2ish so a smaller 3/8 tube might be good looking.
Chrome Molly?
Can you post a pic of your die set.
6 minutes ago, tsmittythat mirror stay is 1/2ish so a smaller 3/8 tube might be good looking.
Chrome Molly?
Whatever mild steel shit they have with the square tube, angled and flat stock in the bins is perfect.
Been going through the house on a repurposing scavenger hunt...
If I come off the mirror mount with a thin 90 heading downward, come off the bezel with my formed tube;
the other end of that formed tube will have a formed flat 90 to meet up with the piece of angle hanging off the mirror.
Doable? Too light duty? Blowing smoke out some orifice somewhere?
I know you know what this is haha
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Maybe you could supplement the bracket and 3M the new piece to the speedo housing. It would take some stress off and help with vibration / shaking, a lot.
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Oh, and here's my dies. They are scheduled for replacement. They've smushed A LOT of brackets.
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Does the smush naturally follow the center of the tube? anyways...
I just got back from our local Tractor Supply, the smallest tube they carry is 1/2x1/16 I think that is too large.
The big A has this
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I'll get a stick next weekend and practice. Plenty to do in the meantime. The 3M idea and the fairing stay may be a winner as well; the "nesting" surfaces i stuck in the bezel will hold the tape perfect.
Thanks Cap., as always your input is invaluable...you should charge by the word...extra for pics...well, except for me.
If the dies are mirrored, it self centers. If you need a "flat" side, like for up against bodywork at a shallow angle just stagger the dies as needed.
4 minutes ago, Captain 80sIf you need a "flat" side, like for up against bodywork at a shallow angle just stagger the dies as needed.
I was going to ask, the side at the bezel...would be desirable.
All I have is a vise, cast iron surface plate (ok for common sence beating and filtering) and a bernzomatic torch. My team and I got this...
I was check out pictures of your "Chrissy" loaded for camping, taking me back some. 🙂
This is what I have with the official Honda bracket and my idea with the tape.
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How does this plan sound?
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I create a flat on the tube with a hook on the end that goes down that bolt hole for the mirror? There is more than enough clearance for the mirror bolt and the flat piece of tube, then the bracket tightens on this side with the mirror bolt...
The problem with sandwiching anything fairly thick on top is that the mirror spacing is designed to apply pressure to hold the cowl securely.
Why don't you dremel away a "relief" in the rolled over lip of the mirror mount just wide enough for the bracket to run thru and be flush to the underside.
That short of a bracket bolted in that manner will be very secure.
15 minutes ago, Captain 80sWhy don't you dremel away a "relief" in the rolled over lip of the mirror mount just wide enough for the bracket to run thru and be flush to the underside.
Yes, very doable and perhaps use the mirror mount and a good grade 8 nut and bolt to put the initial smush on the tube...
this sucks no computer in the garage and my old MacBook does not do VFRD well.
Hows this one... the tube will reach down to the stamped oval-ish hole in the left upper in-fill panel mount tab.
It looks to be running parallel to the gauges.
Doable. I personally would be running to the mirror mount for strength. The clocking is easy and can be fine tuned after the fact. I usually have to do a little tweaking for final fitment. I also think you want the bracket away from the bike so you can throw some serious heat at it. It helps a lot on the smush.
Option 3... I like this one...[image: untitledshoot-1362.thumb.jpg.d8e90af614494a39a795a640dc5b4af7.jpg][image: untitledshoot-1361.thumb.jpg.0fcb53765d975fda196ed814e1e09175.jpg][image: untitledshoot-1360.thumb.jpg.38fa4b36b9adee2f7dd4149ee777c8e7.jpg]
So do I. Smush and then hole drilled in the wall of the cowl stay?
The angle to the mirror mount is better for staying in position, but that is a cleaner looking install.
Then the 3M tape or a velcro application at the speedo.
I will follow this tomorrow. Thanks for walking thru this with me.
I was thinking drilling thru the tube and the side of the gauge mount bracket as is right there, small bolt and nut, conical washer. The tube would be so much more sturdy or rigid not smushed down there.
yea just disregard that last one, its late...
2 hours ago, tsmittyyea just disregard that last one, its late...
Too late... smush it. You don't lose any strength in the same plane and it's a much nicer install. Plus flat on flat is a better engagement to hold it's position.
Maybe there's a machine shop near you that will let you have 5 minutes on their press. But if you have a big enough vise and a torch, it will go easy.
I think I'm golden Captain.
I don't think I'll need any tape, if so can be applied anytime. The speedo and bezel can wiggle together or separately. The only alteration to the bike is 13/64 hole in the cowl sub-frame.
Thoughts?
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Smush for the win! Nice.
Here is the meter mounted with the rubber overlay. I don't have the harness made up yet...easy-pezy to do later. I have another meter I got on eslay for 5.00 that one is to experiment on changing the letters and numbers to match the stock colors.
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And...here is what she looks like with her cloths back on.
Please, an honest opinion of the final look. Represent?
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The good news is 1 bolt, its off of there and no one will ever know...
That's pretty cool. Nice job. Def unique.
Thanks Captain, its nice to have a forum with tallied Gents. to bounce ideas off of.
And in case you're wondering...I aint ready to paint yet...I got a kanutin valve to fix yet...and the fix-diziler started rattling again...
You're gonna throw a little paint on that bracket tho... riiiiiiiiiight?
What bracket... ...?
:laughing6-hehe:
Yes I was planning on squirting the bracket...
I was looking at that poor cowl frame and the messed up paint and heat marks... I never expected that bike, dumped in my garage in a box, all burnt up, would turn into this. So no...I haven't been painting stuff as I went along. I had found out that the son dumped it here so old "Pops" would have something to tinker with.
Well, no one was expecting it but when it started coming back together...and ran...and started looking pretty...and your in-fills went on and gave her a touch of class. This is the overall badist bike I ever owned, and always regretted selling her, hell man the bike and I both earned our "broken wings".
So seriously Mike, to answer your question...I'm going to paint that bracket and someday I might pull that sub-frame and paint it too, but I won't paint that tank, the blue needs shot too I believe.
Ok, now that the boo-hoo session is over and moving forward.
Below, side by side, is a totally "toast" speedo and a 5.00 ebay sacrificial volt gauge.
I have two questions...
1) How do I change the white letters and numbers into pretty reddish/orangish letters and numbers?
2) How do I transfer those techniques to the gauge that I have currently mounted to the bike?
Aaannd...go.
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I would take another hit with that lighter, chill out with a finger of bourbon and look at my killer bike with it's new custom Volt Meter.
12 minutes ago, Captain 80sI would take another hit with that lighter
I was doing precisely that...
ok when I try to download jpg from my good camera I get an error 200 but downloads from my phone (jpgs as well) are just fine...grrr
Size likely. Turn down the quality a bit. I got tired of resizing for posting so I just adjusted my camera quality. Still plenty big with good resolution if I happen to snap a killer pic I want to blow up.
Most forums have an auto-sizer built in. Not sure about the two VFR sites. From talking to others who run forums, it is an easy mod/upgrade for the moderator to make and all sites should have it on there to save time for...everyone. 🙂
Honestly I will try a new memory card in the camera. the file size is actually larger from iPhone pics.
going from: iphone .hec's to Lightroom Clasic exported to a local file as .jpg's
Camera SD card as .jpg to lightroom then same.
That camera also has a XQD card saving in tif. I'll put those pics thru Lightroom try posting them as jpg
Sorry it saves in .nef's
ok take 2
Take 2 did not work. same error code 200...
Ok this is the same image, opened in iMac "preview" then I took a screen shot and this went thru...
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WTF... I think its on my end..
Maybe put DOWN the lighter. You want to work with the drugs, not against them.
5 hours ago, Captain 80sI would take another hit with that lighter, chill out with a finger of bourbon and look at my killer bike with it's new custom Volt Meter.
I've been trying your method all day...!
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Little fucker's still white...
Thanks so flippin much for your help mounting that thing up Captain! It does look bad ass.
🙃
19 minutes ago, tsmittyThanks so flippin much for your help mounting that thing up Captain! It does look bad ass.
🙃
I didnt really do anything, except to tell you to put down the hose clamp and back away slowly..
Like I said before, a unique and cool mod. Good idea and execution.
Waiting for a couple terminals to come to make up the wire harness.
Yup...not quite done, just in thinking mode.
I'm a retired old man...I don't need something to do, I need a problem to solve.
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How do I make my volt meter face match the stock gauge set?????
The Honda Marine gauge has a alum. face with black then white paint applied.
The VFR gauges have clear plastic with a layer of white, then the orange lettering and slashes applied in separate blocks then the black is allied all on one side of the plastic.
How do I get those needles off the gauge mechanism and back on and timed correctly?
Find a miniatures enthusiast, you know the ones that paint faces and eyelashes on their Civil War or Railroad figurines, and have them paint over the graphics in orange.
Seriously is the ONLY thing I can think of for this particular scenario.
Can you take the gauge faces that you have removed from the VM and scan them and send the scans to a label maker to print off in black/orange?
There's also a number of suppliers of alternate gauge faces on the internet that might do the same work.
40 minutes ago, TerryCan you take the gauge faces that you have removed from the VM and scan them and send the scans to a label maker to print off in black/orange?
Thanks Terry, excellent idea. I will look into that.
I was just checking out little paint brushes too as the Captain suggested
Do they make a see thru masking tape...lay the tape down, cut out with a fine knife and spray???
or someone with a vinyl machine make the black overlay...
I would just look for one out of the GL1100 Gold Wing
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I would still want to change the lettering color to orange.
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26 minutes ago, tsmittyI would still want to change the lettering color to orange.
Maybe the Volts are Metric and are supposed to be white, like km/h?
7 minutes ago, Captain 80sMaybe the Volts are Metric and are supposed to be white, like km/h?
:computer-noworky:
Or...
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Can I turn this into a volt meter? @Grum
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Black out the "Temp" color fill the danger zones and reassemble with original lens. escutcheon ring.
We have a member here that goes by Throttlepimp. His name is Kevin Sigler, he does graphic design and has been creating and fabbing gauge faces and decals for a long time. He's supplied all my decal and gauge face mods for my business and bike projects for almost 15yrs. Countless transactions with nothing but good results - including a set of gauge faces for a second gen VFR like yours to replace sun faded ones.
He's not on here much, so shoot him an email at throttlepimp@gmail.com. Tell him you are a VFRD member, and that I sent you. He already has files and color match for your gauges saved from my project. Customizing a face for your voltmeter will be very easy for him.
1 hour ago, SEBSPEEDWe have a member here that goes by Throttlepimp. His name is Kevin Sigler, he does graphic design and has been creating and fabbing gauge faces and decals for a long time. He's supplied all my decal and gauge face mods for my business and bike projects for almost 15yrs. Countless transactions with nothing but good results - including a set of gauge faces for a second gen VFR like yours to replace sun faded ones.
He's not on here much, so shoot him an email at throttlepimp@gmail.com. Tell him you are a VFRD member, and that I sent you. He already has files and color match for your gauges saved from my project. Customizing a face for your voltmeter will be very easy for him.
SEBSPEED thank you so much! I am on it!
Whats the secret for removing the gauge hands?
This is what happens when I apply voltage to the Stock "Temp" meter.
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20 hours ago, tsmittyWhats the secret for removing the gauge hands?
Gently pry up on it using 2 thin flathead screwdrivers or butter knives. They are press fit to the motor shafts. Make sure the needles remain in the "power off" position when removing and reinstalling. You do not want to rotate or twist them, especially when reinstalling.
Captain 80s, 2/27/2024 at 12:09 PMI would take another hit with that lighter, chill out with a finger of bourbon and look at my killer bike with it's new custom Volt Meter.
Why did I ever doubt the Captain...
I gave my sacrificial volt meter a full pardon...reassembled, tested and shelved.
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Yea, that mod is cool as is, my heart's just not into pursuing the face alterations any further...later maybe.
I am going to paint the bracket and I thing the cowl stay comes off for a paint job as well. This aught to be fun... haha
@Captain 80s is there a specific "black" paint to use on the cowl stay?
Thanks
The Duplicolor Wheel Coating is great general purpose, durable stay and bracket paint that I use a lot. Shoots easy and dries pretty fast for general handling. Available in Gloss and Matte, I would go Gloss for a factory look. The Duplicolor Caliper paint is great too. Has a very unique, factory like finish for items like that too, but is harder to shoot. It is thinner and runs easily, but dries to a hard, durable finish. I used it on the 1992 VFR lower cowl brackets I made.
Should I clean, scuff and prime everything or spot prime?
Clear coat? I do have a can of the 2K you mentioned somewhere... I understand the 48 hour pot life thing.
I will be doing all the stays including my home made set in black. Maybe a set in polished w/clear.
Can of worms! It all started with this....
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Thanks Captain...preciate-cha...
bike builders are an annoying lot... haha
On stuff like that, I personally rough the original paint, sand / fair out bad areas and spot prime. The original finish roughed up makes the best primer in my experience.
I'm not sure if I would pop a 2K on brackets... but it certainly can't hurt. I always try to have as much stuff as possible ready when i do pop one. But... can-o-worms like you said. I then find myself refinishing shit I had no intention of doing right now!
Just busting your balls a bit...
thanks
So... I'm not a paint person.
Got the cowl stay painted, the can says 6 days for the paint to cure but I don't think I'll be putting a clear coat on, I was having such a hard time; the part is so complicated to paint, I have it heavy in some places and light in others!
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I suck with a spray can...
When you mount everything up, most of the little things you didn't like disappear. It looks good.
Things like stays, subframes, etc are challenging. I tend to make sure all of my hard to reach areas are addressed first, giving the easy stuff a light coat as I go around. A couple rounds of that, then finish strong with all of the most visible areas last with the money shots.
In "assembly mode"
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This is going to open a can of worms...
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Stupid lighter..!
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That's all I got...
Brackets came out great. Makes a difference when everything's all bolted up.
That subframe tho ...
1 hour ago, Captain 80sBrackets came out great. Makes a difference when everything's all bolted up.
That subframe tho ...
Thanks!
"That subframe tho"
Haven't sat down to think about the logistics of that move yet! Maybe a distant future project. 🙂 Altho at my age I have less future than I do past...haha
48 minutes ago, tsmittyThanks!
"That subframe tho"
Haven't sat down to think about the logistics of that move yet! Maybe a distant future project. 🙂 Altho at my age I have less future than I do past...haha
They are not terrible, but they also don't just fall off either. Once you start, all of sudden your VFR looks like this!
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Whatcha got goin on in the last pic? Fan and Fuel Cut toggles?
1 hour ago, Captain 80sThey are not terrible, but they also don't just fall off either. Once you start, all of sudden your VFR looks like this!
Do I have to disturb the rear brake fluid? I'm not out in the garage today, too damn cold.
1 hour ago, Captain 80sWhatcha got goin on in the last pic? Fan and Fuel Cut toggles?
Yes, mounted on that 2x1/8 piece you see. Thats the motor mount that will hold it with the red reflector (my lock out tag out system; matching tag on keychain.)
its going on the mount above the oil fill. I'm making the wiring to plug into and out of the stock harness so there is no splicing. Here is the harness for the fan; it plugs into the radiator fan temp. switch.
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I'm doing much the same for the fuel relay using in and out plugs.
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So my thoughts for location for the toggle switches.
from the cockpit...switches are hidden but with the spring loaded safety covers, the two switches can easily be found (with cold weather gloves on), manipulated and closing the cover turns the switch off. The switch safety cover can be seen from the rider if the switch is on and i'm hoping will be somewhat illuminated at night. Who knows...if it too rude looking from the parking lot, it can all come off.
I'm waiting for the paint to dry on the switch plate and it may get a clear along with my home made lower cowl stays.
The black wheel paint says 6 days to cure. Do I have to wait until then to apply that 2x clear?
31 minutes ago, tsmittyDo I have to disturb the rear brake fluid? I'm not out in the garage today, too damn cold.
Here is the harness for the fan; it plugs into the radiator fan temp. switch.
Nope. The rear reservoir can hang intact.
Good idea on the female / male.
4 minutes ago, tsmittyThe black wheel paint says 6 days to cure. Do I have to wait until then to apply that 2x clear?
Nah. I've done it after a couple days on the 1992 VFR footpeg brackets and pedals.
I'm still waiting on terminals come in for the two harness sets.
Any thoughts about this?
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Heavy Metal <click me
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I typically put my fan switches on the left so I can "work the controls" in flight. But it's not like I'm constantly on / off either. And I usually reach down sitting at a light anyway.
Looks good!
25 minutes ago, Captain 80sI typically put my fan switches on the left so I can "work the controls" in flight.
I never thought of that. haha
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The plug on the fuse box is where I originally had the fan switch back in 87, it was still there and wired in when the bike came back home. I found out real quick how fast the bike heats up in summer construction.
I use to love packing her up every year for, at least, 1 week camping trip and several weekend excersions
; loved the bikes torque in the mountains, and the sound the little bitch made accelerating under a load. I had one of the first "general public" Kerker White Tip exhaust (I rememberer calling those guys once or twice for status reports; you racers took priority) Of course I had a cruise control on the bike...that was fun shit! When bike to bike communications came out; that was a game changer for my friend Ace and I.
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This Yosh. tail piece was off one of Ace's bikes when I finely retired the Kerker can
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Old dude rambling...
Too cold in the garage to spray the clear...and waiting for the UPS dude...
:sad:
1 minute ago, tsmittyToo cold in the garage to spray the clear...and waiting for the UPS dude...
:sad:
Yeah, don't waste a can in too cold / humid conditions.
Cap. have you played around with that piece of fabric I sent you? the reason I asked is one of your in-fills; the left lower mount screw well is disintegrating at the bottom. Both the top and bottom screw locations have been epoxied. Well I'm thinking of that cloth material, it bonds so well to that abs plastic. I'll get some pics tomorrow, I know my description is pretty weak.
I know exactly what you're talking about. That epoxy job was a "oh shit, I need this done right now for tomorrow" job, always meant to be revisited and correctly redone. The epoxy was the right stuff, just no reinforcement plan in the moment. Was just trying to keep the pieces from literally falling apart. The fact that it lasted this long is pretty remarkable. That plastic and that epoxy are perfect mates.
I think that "fabric" is a good application for those areas. I was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.
Yes! on the same track!
I'll talk later with you about it.
19 hours ago, Captain 80sI was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.
The stuff won't adhere to any epoxy. But still a great idea.
This is what I guess would be plan 1...
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This is what I was thinking; I have some ABS sheet. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJDKZWDF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
Making a new counterbore bottom, using the cloth as double sided sticky, then filling the back with more sandwiched abs and that plastic repair powder. Cant remember the name right now...Plastex or something.
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The con's of this would be loss of counterbore depth. The "shoulder screws" would need spacers to make up for the thickness change so the pretty infill still floats... 🙂
The pro's are top ascetics around the screw (hope) new pliable plastic to float around that shoulder screw.
Whats your thoughts?
I was thinking drilling thru the tube and the side of the gauge mount bracket as is right there, small bolt and nut, conical washer. The tube would be so much more sturdy or rigid not smushed down there.
So my son Jay calls me up and says "the bikes dead, it acted like it was out of gas so I turned on the pump switch and that helped for a while then it ran out of fuel, dead"! Well the repair vehicle (me) with the I'll fitting, extremely loud back up pump to the rescue with success! What frustrates me is, the flipping thing was brand new, not 10 miles on it!
Is there a distributer that carries decent fuel pumps or am I rolling the dice on ebay again??
Thanks...
You put a Chinese $10 one in it?
1 hour ago, tsmittySo my son Jay calls me up and says "the bikes dead, it acted like it was out of gas so I turned on the pump switch and that helped for a while then it ran out of fuel, dead"! Well the repair vehicle (me) with the I'll fitting, extremely loud back up pump to the rescue with success! What frustrates me is, the flipping thing was brand new, not 10 miles on it!
Is there a distributer that carries decent fuel pumps or am I rolling the dice on ebay again??
Thanks...
What was it? Generic?
You're gonna want to work on adapting a straight inlet/outlet style pump to gain some selection.
Look at the attached K&L Pump application chart. I look for used genuine Mitsubishi pumps of the 18-5529 style on eBay. I find the newest, lowest mile one that has a return policy. I have done this about 7 times now and have only got one dud. They instantly refunded me and didn't want want the pump back, so I got a good amount of formed fuel line and clamps for free.
All the other pumps have worked perfect. The last one I got was from a YZF600, had 14K miles on it and looked brand new. $30 shipped. [image: Pump.jpg.b92e79b356ee26099dbbbc0b6802e6a3.jpg]
You can also buy a new K&L or TourMax pump (both genuine Mistsu) but they are not cheap.
K&L_Fuel_Pumps.pdf
8 hours ago, bmartYou put a Chinese $10 one in it?
I did...😔
8 hours ago, Captain 80sI look for used genuine Mitsubishi pumps of the 18-5529 style on eBay.
Thanks, I'll do that. Thanks!
Thanks again Captain, I spent some time this morning web shopping and will see what Jay wants to do, he got the cash, my budget was blown on that tail cowl from sixdog, hell I'm selling shit off no-a-days! haha Don't regret buying that tail cowl one bit though...that piece is so pretty!
I saw some new Mitsubishi pumps you mentioned as well...it wouldn't hurt me if Jay wanted to go that route too...
Still asking about the Chinese ones.
I've used a bunch of different ones to rebuild the track bike fuel pumps and the CB-1. The cheap chinese ones don't last very long and do not work consistently. There are Japanese ones available also. Those have worked well for me on the track bikes. For the CB-1, I eventually ended up with a Honda one from another bike and just swapped the connector.
Being stuck on the side of the road with a "new" pump sucks... At least with the old ones (carbs) you can usually knock them with something and they work a while longer, enough to get you home or to a destination.
1 hour ago, bmartStill asking about the Chinese ones.
Yes it was a 30 dollar made in china sold in US and it still took a month to get here. I thought...how can china fuck up a fuel pump!
Well I'll be looking while Jay decides how he wants to go, I did encourage a new mitsubishi or D&L as the Captain mentioned as an option.
I would love to have some lucky fucker to just get on her and go for a day or two without a chase vehicle...
But, on a positive note, slowly the bike is getting sorted out as best I can, it only has about 25 or so miles sense her rebirth last fall, unfortunately I can only account for about a mile of that.
I pulled the trigger on the YZF pump. Thanks for your help looking Captain.
I would love to talk Jay into riding the bike to Vintage Days at Mid Ohio this year. She's not a show piece but she aint no slouch. 😉
Like I said, you're gonna have to get a little creative getting the lines turned to go up and over the coolant tank. I've used some brass 90 deg fittings on some other bikes where I created room for the extra length coming out of the pump. Small section of fuel line with the fittings butted right up to the pump spigots,
Some others have cut the fuel pump spigots short and eliminated the bead. I haven't had to resort to that.
Just getting started here; I had my work area full of slot cars and track I was eBaying...
Can the pump be moved and lay any flatter?
When I revived mine the fuel pump leaked...I bought a new Chinese one...which immediately blew the fuse on trying it. Turned out to be wired backwards.
I ended up taking the points out of the leaking one and fitting them to the original pump (that I'd replaced with the current one but kept because of learning you could replace the points on them).
Anyway, its worth keeping the old pumps for that reason (unless leaking) or the diaphragm itself has split (ie it's still ticking but not actually pumping). You can get aftermarket replacement points or buy cheap "identical but for the ends" pumps and swap out the internals.
2 hours ago, tsmittyJust getting started here; I had my work area full of slot cars and track I was eBaying...
Can the pump be moved and lay any flatter?
Of course. Also, you might be able to make a small bracket to move the pump rearward a little to bridge the pump holder and the subframe mount.
I'm very close to doing this same project and have been thinking about it, but haven't actually started fitting and modding anything.
2 hours ago, tsmittyJust getting started here; I had my work area full of slot cars and track I was eBaying...
About 2 years ago I sold my AFX slot car stuff that I had saved since they were new as a kid. I had A LOT and had some sought after stuff. I did pretty damn good. Saved all of the track that had broken tabs, my 4 favorite cars (two MagnaTraction and two G-Plus), a power section, transformer and two controllers. I'm gonna lay out a track on the ceiling of my shop with two cars "racing".
22 minutes ago, Captain 80sI'm gonna lay out a track on the ceiling of my shop with two cars "racing".
Have you seen Carrera Digital slot cars? Please do some YouTube research; it might change the direction you go...lane changing, computer interface...lap times...6 cars at a time racing. Sad to sell it.
1 hour ago, Captain 80sOf course. Also, you might be able to make a small bracket to move the pump rearward a little to bridge the pump holder and the subframe mount.
I may do just as you said, bring it up and tilt it just a little flatter still maintaining the little drain.
The F/Pump you linked to earlier never got delivered and I know this will bring a cringe, I'm putting a new Mitubichi on it. Please keep me posted or pics of how you do yours.
3 hours ago, FastdruidAnyway, its worth keeping the old pumps for that reason (unless leaking) or the diaphragm itself has split (ie it's still ticking but not actually pumping). You can get aftermarket replacement points or buy cheap "identical but for the ends" pumps and swap out the internals.
Thanks Fast. I peeked under the cover at the points! and slowly put the cover back on...haha
But I wonder if the bottoms can be removed...replaced or exchanged?
9 hours ago, tsmittyHave you seen Carrera Digital slot cars? Please do some YouTube research; it might change the direction you go...lane changing, computer interface...lap times...6 cars at a time racing. Sad to sell it.
I'm not going any direction. If I had room for a slot car track to stay assembled, I wouldn't have sold my vintage stuff in the first place. It would be part of my giant man cave, along with my sold 1/24 vintage slot cars, HO train tracks, LP collection and coin op pool table.
My mock track is going on the CEILING.
45 minutes ago, Captain 80sMy mock track is going on the CEILING.
ok. Get it.
The real fuel pump, it appears, is on a slow boat from Japan.
When I put this together last year, I used Motion Pro 5/16 with some not very confidence inspiring clamps.
What should I be using?
I have a low profile brass 90 coming out of the tank.
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Cant remember right now where this bracket came from.
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Happy 4th !
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Sorry no scenic background...we don't get out much... haha
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Cant thank you enough Captain 80s for those awesome infills
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27 minutes ago, tsmittyCant remember right now where this bracket came from.
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I believe that is the side stand mount to lower cowl bracket.
19 minutes ago, tsmittyHappy 4th !
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Sorry no scenic background...we don't get out much... haha
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Cant thank you enough Captain 80s for those awesome infills
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Looking good!
I'm liking the fuel pump mod. Is the back side of the pump supported?
13 minutes ago, Captain 80sI'm liking the fuel pump mod. Is the back side of the pump supported?
No its not but with that...what would you call it...gusseted bracket... its stiff as hell.
23 minutes ago, tsmittyNo its not but with that...what would you call it...gusseted bracket... its stiff as hell.
But the 90 deg bent tang of the fuel pump bracket is certainly not. Stock, the bracket and the pump get to rest on the subframe rail. The bolt hole just keeps it in place. Over a short amount of time it might just bend down/back to the point that the back of the pump is hitting something and be ok.
Sorry I'm not making things clear...
BTW that extension bracket I used is a lower coil mount, I think.. anyways that bracket has a reinforcing bend that makes it very rigid.
If you look at the stock fuel pump mount bolted to the sub frame; it is actually suspended, suspended only by the bolt. Take a look, it doesn't rest on the subframe at all. I was concerned about that as well.
7 minutes ago, tsmittySorry I'm not making things clear...
BTW that extension bracket I used is a lower coil mount, I think.. anyways that bracket has a reinforcing bend that makes it very rigid.
If you look at the stock fuel pump mount bolted to the sub frame; it is actually suspended, suspended only by the bolt. Take a look, it doesn't rest on the subframe at all. I was concerned about that as well.
Coil mount! Of course.
Gotcha. But typically when you start to tighten that bolt, the bracket rotates to the right and contacts the subframe.
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I'm sure it's just fine. I tend to overthink some things.
1 minute ago, Captain 80sBut typically when you start to tighten that bolt, the bracket rotates to the right and contacts the subframe.
Yes, and I let it, torqued the bolt down and the bracket will not rotate away from the fuel line.
I've seen some of your safety wire techniques. that would be a trick place.
I remember now the extra little "gusset" the fuel pump bracket has at the 90. A few test rides would show any issues I'm sure. Just with it up and so suspended now, my mind goes there thinking about the accumulative effects of constant bumps and jolts. Easy enough to address if needed.
20 minutes ago, Captain 80sI remember now the extra little "gusset" the fuel pump bracket has at the 90. A few test rides would show any issues I'm sure. Just with it up and so suspended now, my mind goes there thinking about the accumulative effects of constant bumps and jolts. Easy enough to address if needed.
And I'm sorry to say thats your department... 😢
Just now, tsmittyAnd I'm sorry to say thats your department... 😢
but yes I know exactly what your saying...that much further away from solid securement...kind a thing
there is no anti-rotation at that top bolt. It would be nice to use that little locating tab on the coil bracket I'm using but thats probably overkill...
14 minutes ago, tsmittybut yes I know exactly what your saying...that much further away from solid securement...kind a thing
Yes. You can have strong brackets, but with each added one strength gets lost and leverage increases. I've learned many times how brutal actual street riding can be. I had some cowl brackets on my 500 race bike that had zero issues in years of racing. One ride down to Ballard for a bike night and they were toast.
1 minute ago, tsmittythere is no anti-rotation at that top bolt. It would be nice to use that little locating tab on the coil bracket I'm using but thats probably overkill...
I'm just thinking of using one of the mounts up behind for the reg/rect and coming down with another small, simple bracket to the back side of the pump bracket. Shit, even a zip tie from the back rubber suspension mount up to something there would do the trick to take A LOT of stress off of everything.
Well after the old girl is sunning herself, I'll take a look on the back side of the fuel mount for another securement spot.
up to the old rectifier mount or somthing
yup what he said
So here we go...while digging around, looking for secondary mount I noticed interference between back of f/pump and the rear fender snorkel. I made that change by mounting the f/p bracket on the other side of the coil bracket. So the tab on the coil bracket has to go...or get changed to an anti-rotation tab. The secondary mount location will be at the tool compartment. (I didn't use that bodacious screw...)
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I think I'm golden...!?
Bam!!!
Hell yeah. I may be using much, if not all, of this when needed.
Thanks Captain.
Oh yes I did.. haha
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Hey Captain 80s... This is the fuel line I'm using from tank to carbs. the clamps I have can be sprung with your fingers. Not very confidence inspiring, there is no leaking but I done like it...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZWTCS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What would you recommend.
Thanks
Post pic of the clamp style.
There are a few varieties that sometimes get moved around on bikes. There is a wide style that can clamp quite strong, but your fuel line likely has a smaller OD too not being double walled reenforced.
22 minutes ago, Captain 80sPost pic of the clamp style.
Pictured on my fuel pump, you can pinch them open pretty easy.
6 minutes ago, tsmittyPictured on my fuel pump, you can pinch them open pretty easy.
Oh, yeah. Duh. Your fuel line is smaller OD, and I think the clamp is out of it's sweet spot. But Honda does have another version that provides a stronger clamp. You might have to try the next smaller size of your style, maxed out to get over the line.
You can always run small hose clamps, I just try not to whenever I can for servicing.
You can "shrink" those clamps styles down to a smaller size too, I've done that on some in between applications.
20 minutes ago, Captain 80sYou can "shrink" those clamps styles down to a smaller size too, I've done that on some in between applications.
I'm thinking that might be the plan; I got one of those multi-size clamp sets last year and couldn't use any them. What you see up there in the pictures is what I was able to scrounge around the garage at the time.
Can the clamps I have be safety wired slightly tighter..?
16 minutes ago, tsmittyI'm thinking that might be the plan; I got one of those multi-size clamp sets last year and couldn't use any them. What you see up there in the pictures is what I was able to scrounge around the garage at the time.
Can the clamps I have be safety wired slightly tighter..?
The design of that clamp, I'm not sure how. The tangs move away from each other to get tighter, I don't think going around the back would quite work out. Maybe. You could try I suppose and see what happens. Sucks when you go to service something.
Hell for that matter, I can just go back to double wall rubber and clamps from auto zone; I don't have any sharp bends to navigate other the at the tank and I have a 90 there.
The new fuel pump is in place and the bike is back in service, so yesterday I snugged up the carb boots, 1/4 turn in on the idle mix screws; the choke start warm up sequence just doesn't act like I remember, so I'll try to sneak up on it.
The bike starts way too easily to justify buying another set of carb sticks (the ones I use to have...long gone) but the carbs could be a little more synchronized than the bench job I did.
So I'm getting ready to address a "red flag" issue I had at the front brake lines and their re-assembly.
I put the current set of Galfer's SS front brake lines on the old girl back in 1987-88'ish.
The lines now have kinks and crushing, not heavy but still there. the line are very short and the caliper ends are straight not angled...they don't fit well and I don't like it. hah
So I have a set of NOS galfer's on the way for 80 bucks and...how do I pull this off without making a mess!!?? haha
Could be a winter project...