Got a RC24 again......

So I made a offer on a 1986 VFR750F RC24 on Friday as I was bored, and I got the offer accepted! So Friday evening I did pick it up! 

[image: large.IMG_20230908_191352.jpg.1b0e25a92c21f7c398a8fe1693075b04.jpg][image: large.IMG_20230908_191403.jpg.e39efd1d12ad669fb86ae5a5d9378bce.jpg]

A bit rough bike but runs. 

Nice things are, aside it's red 😜, it has a Devil 4-1 exhaust, fairly fresh front brake discs as pads front and half worn tires. Battery as R/R are one year old and fork has stiffer springs.

Plastic has cracks, seat cover needs to be changed and fairing inner panels are missing.

Biggest issue is, even it runs good, the engine dies after 10-15 minutes of riding. This was mentioned in the add, but sounded like a fuel cut relay issue, BUT after a ride today I don't think it's the issue. Engine dies like ignition switched off, and after a 15-20 minutes wait it starts again but dies again after 5-10 minutes, same thing starts after a wait again.

Anyone has had this issue? What to look into? 

Cool.  

Heat related maybe?

Nice bike Keny! It looks good in red.

8 hours ago, Captain 80s

Cool.  

Heat related maybe?

Yes, the bike dies as it fully warm, then as cools down runs but dies again after you ride a bit can be just minutes of riding.

Nice bike Keny.

Do some good ohm measurements on both the Pulse Generator coils and the Cam Pulsar (if it has the Cam Pulsar) especially if you can get the engine hot. These coils can become flaky/intermittent with heat, make sure they have good continuity in wiring back to the Spark Unit.

Also make sure 12v Power (Black/White wire) to the Spark Unit and the Ignition Coils, and the Ground (Green wire) to the Spark Unit is good.

And.......It goes without saying! Make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.!

Good luck with the bike.

Keny changes bikes more often than I my underpants...  :laugh:

6 hours ago, Dutchy

Keny changes bikes more often than I my underpants...  :laugh:

I just added one 😂

And you onec did say I will be back after I sold my last VFR some years back 😁

We only live once 

Exact same issue on my ‘86, after exhausting trouble shooting & replacing parts that are/were fine(ecm,etc) found 1 of the 2 pulser coils near starter clutch would cut out totally when heated. Oddly enough the other 1 is fine but faulty coil acted just like the ign kill switch, somehow stopping any ignition. Took me weeks to find it so hopefully it’ll help your problem!

Well it's now confirmd it's the pulse generators that is reason bike stops. Sadly a one year only part and new is not in stock anywhere 😞

Even a working used would be great to find!

Anyone has something in the drawer?

OEM par number is 30300-ML7-003 

[image: large.Screenshot_20230912-135850.jpg.dc319c186339b3e53c7eddc07f2f039d.jpg]

Hope to find one or I have to score hole ignition system from a 87-89 one completely whit trigger wheel.

Are they totally failing when hot or are shorting to earth? My 86 manual says they should be 450-550 Ohm. 

I guess there is little risk in taking it off and investigating the wiring itself or even investigating aftermarket replacements of just the coils themselves. 

Might be worth asking Electrex for example if any they make would work.  https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Pick_up_Coils_403-p1.html

Between the pickups failing and the trigger wheel/sprag clutch housings breaking there are a few common failing but unobtainium parts for the 86 bikes now in part because they updated them for the later bikes and then kept them the same for many years.  

It's not particularly helpful to you right now but I really should get my arse into gear and swap out the pickups and trigger wheel from my 86 engine for the ones out of a RC35 engine I have, if only because then I can sell them on to someone else who needs them to keep an 86 bike going! 

Personally in your shoes I'd go for the upgrade, pickups from a 88-89, trigger wheel from a 87-97 (unfortunately they *ALL* have a reputation of breaking the sprag so they're a bit in demand), a 88-89 ECU, fuel cut relay and tacho. Rewiring is pretty trivial as you can pickup the connector shells easily pop out the pins and swap them over to match. 

You could probably even go for RC36 pickups and ECU as well, despite what the HBoL says, timing is the same on all of them (according to the Honda manuals) although the wiring would be harder as it's a totally different connector. 

Not entirely sure what the difference between 88-89 and 90-97 pickups are, different part numbers but might just be in the connectors/wiring and even work with an 88-89 ECU as well.

Keny..found used on e-bay from the US, so far they’ve worked fine. If you’re desperate I could send along the good 1 that I saved, wiring could be wrong color but that won’t stop the electrons flowing!

Fastdruid, 9/12/2023 at 5:09 PM

Are they totally failing when hot or are shorting to earth? My 86 manual says they should be 450-550 Ohm. 

They are falling totally, no measurable connection.

I gamble a bit, as I orders set of used 88-89 pulse generator to see if it works, it might not, but of then I will order bits I need more to make it a 88-89 ignition specific 

Where do you measure?

44 minutes ago, rc24dk

Where do you measure?

 Between yellow and yellow/white for one and blue and blue/white for the other. 

The 86 & 87 wiring is slightly different to the 88-97 but only in the loom after the connector from the pickups (it joins the blue and yellow).

5 hours ago, keny

I gamble a bit, as I orders set of used 88-89 pulse generator to see if it works, it might not, but of then I will order bits I need more to make it a 88-89 ignition specific 

Fingers crossed! According to the HBoL[1] the pickups are the same resistance from 86-89 and 91-97 (90 is apparently an oddity). 

I think they should work but my worry would be that the physical location of them to the starter clutch might vary *slightly* and hence would affect the timing because the 87+ use a totally different way to do the ignition. 

The 86 has a very simple trigger/pulse generator, the 87+ is an actual crank position sensor that uses a missing tooth wheel to work out where the crank is. 

[1] Although that says they all have slightly different ignition timings while the Honda manuals all say they're exactly the same! 

It could be a bad connection in the loom/connector ...? Suspicious about both dying at the sane time.

2 hours ago, rc24dk

It could be a bad connection in the loom/connector ...? Suspicious about both dying at the sane time.

On the 86 they are separately wired. So while on the 88/89 a single failed wire (the yellow one) in the loom would see both fail on the 86 you'd have to have two wires fail. Not impossible but less likely. 

Still obviously worth double checking you have connectivity from the "ECU" to the pulse generator connector (pretty sure everything after that is sealed so you can't probe it). 

Well I got the 88-89 pickups today, might see what a difference tomorrow if nothing to critically come ahead 

Did you get a new gasket too? Chances of it popping off cleanly are slim (certainly mine ripped into many pieces last time) and I've been led to believe the tolerances are critical enough that leaving it off and just using sealant can lock up the starter idler gear (or worse). 

....Although that said I guess you could just put it back on and try it if it does rip! It won't leak badly enough to be that big a deal for a test and if it doesn't work you'll need to take it all off again anyway!

2 minutes ago, Fastdruid

Did you get a new gasket too? Chances of it popping off cleanly are slim (certainly mine ripped into many pieces last time) and I've been led to believe the tolerances are critical enough that leaving it off and just using sealant can lock up the starter idler gear (or worse). 

....Although that said I guess you could just put it back on and try it if it does rip! It won't leak badly enough to be that big a deal for a test and if it doesn't work you'll need to take it all off again anyway!

Yes, will just try it if looks the locations are right. If works I just change the gasket simply, if not working the bike will probably stay some time until I have found what I need. 🤞

So I did test fit the 88-89 pulse generator and sadly they do not angel up so didn't bother try to stay engine

OEM 86

[image: large.IMG_20230915_155035.jpg.701033ee9d202ef5230b18c36d4fe425.jpg]

 And 88-89

[image: large.IMG_20230915_155623.jpg.c75638bc906070cd0ee84373bd0dca15.jpg]

Marked the OEM location on the starter clutch from where the difference show quit clearly.

So on the hut after 88-89 part's....

Can the pickups/pulser coils be transferred over to the 86 brackets?

Just what I was thinking, judicious use of a hacksaw and dremel is worth trying 

Alternatively this might be useful https://www.rexs-speedshop.com/product-category/ignition-system/replacement-pick-ups/honda-pick-ups/

Don't forget to keep an eye on the pick-up/trigger  .013 - .014 sounds about right.

23 hours ago, Fastdruid

Did you get a new gasket too? Chances of it popping off cleanly are slim (certainly mine ripped into many pieces last time) and I've been led to believe the tolerances are critical enough that leaving it off and just using sealant can lock up the starter idler gear (or worse). 

....Although that said I guess you could just put it back on and try it if it does rip! It won't leak badly enough to be that big a deal for a test and if it doesn't work you'll need to take it all off again anyway!

I had to take the clutch cover off of my Hawk GT after installing a new gasket the season prior.  It tore in a couple places.  I didn't touch a thing, but gave both sides a gentle wipe with some contact cleaner on a rag, and put a nice, thin even smear of Hondabond 4 around the whole cover side (cuz that was the easiest on the bench), perhaps giving a little extra attention at the breaks.  Let it dry overnight before adding oil (and not tilting it vertical) and not one leak all Summer long.

I'm a bit leaning towards a 88-89 ECU, even perhaps a complete 88-89 electric system.

I got a picture of how to change the 86 wiring to work whit the 88-89 ECU (from a member in a RC24 FB group), not that hard actually. A 88-89 ECU is also not hard to find for reasonable money, the pulse generators I have. I could live whit the fact the rpm meter don't show accurate reading, but could probably score a slightly damaged 88-89 to take the rpm meter from. I don't know why I wa told I need a 87-> fuel cut relay as the plug for it, might be they are for different trigging? The nice thing whit a complete 88-89 clock would be a Clock as a fuel guage, but that means a fuel level sensor as a different fuse box. Well one part that also is essential for 88-89 ecu is the starter clutch that works as a trigger wheel, and it's same part from 87 to 97! But second hand it's hard to find, new is a 200€ spending....

The fuel pump relay is different between the 86, 87 and 88-89. 

86 has a trigger from the ECU (also shared with the tacho): P/N 36100-ML7-013

87 has a trigger from coil #3: P/N 36100-MB1-701 (Updated MB1 so updated VF750 V45 part)

88-89 has a trigger from coil #4: P/N 36100-MN4-008 (CBR600F (PC19) part)

So you need to change it because the tacho output from the ECU is different on the 88/89[1]. Now I did hear someone say once (but I'm not sure how true it is) that the 86 basically used a "repeater" from one of signals to the coils on the tacho/fuel cut so you may get away with just connecting it up to a coil, or you may not! 

I'm sure an 87 one would work if you linked it to a coil but because the 88-89 was used in a massive multitude of bikes there are more available! Also aftermarket ones available. 

Used in CBR600 from 87 up to at least 2000 as well as many other bikes. 

[1] On a related note, at some point I really, really should lug the oscilloscope outside and see what signal the 88-89 is actually outputting on the tacho line (I think it's a 10v square wave). 

Captain 80s, 9/15/2023 at 5:15 PM

I had to take the clutch cover off of my Hawk GT after installing a new gasket the season prior.  It tore in a couple places.  I didn't touch a thing, but gave both sides a gentle wipe with some contact cleaner on a rag, and put a nice, thin even smear of Hondabond 4 around the whole cover side (cuz that was the easiest on the bench), perhaps giving a little extra attention at the breaks.  Let it dry overnight before adding oil (and not tilting it vertical) and not one leak all Summer long.

Nice. Mine ripped in multiple places and left some on one side, some on the other! 

Gasket was a good 15 years old though. 

Did score a 86 pulse generator on ebay! From Australia!

Hopefully they work!

56 minutes ago, airwalk

Hopefully they work!

🤞

Score of a good clutch line for 10€

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The one on bike not so convincing..

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That breaker did have a lovely 1986 RC24 that thankfully is staying as a bike, owner will hold it in his collection 

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I was going to say that's a VFR700F RC26, the lack of "750" on the lower fairing is typically the giveaway...but actually both the "VFR" and the "V4 GEAR DRIVEN CAMS" on the fairing are wrong so it's almost certainly been repainted at some point and it could easily be either a 700/RC26 or a 750/RC24.  Almost impossible otherwise to know without getting up close and checking the VIN or plate. 

Still my favourite colour scheme for them. 

VFR700F RC26

[image: 22fsifp2hbq71.jpg?width=1024&auto=webp&s=86d4db78e667f3b84c0c114cabe485ea84fb3db0]

VFR750F RC24

[image: 1986 Honda VFR 750 at Las Vegas Motorcycles 2023 as W145 - Mecum Auctions]

To my untrained eyes...they look the same. 

To my trained eye...they look the same.

Like he said, unless you can read the VIN or see the cc on the engine, the only visual cue on a stock bike is the  "750" graphic.

Looks gorgeous!

18 hours ago, Fastdruid

I was going to say that's a VFR700F RC26, the lack of "750" on the lower fairing is typically the giveaway...but actually both the "VFR" and the "V4 GEAR DRIVEN CAMS" on the fairing are wrong so it's almost certainly been repainted at some point and it could easily be either a 700/RC26 or a 750/RC24.  Almost impossible otherwise to know without getting up close and checking the VIN or plate. 

Still my favourite colour scheme for them. 

VFR700F RC26

[image: 22fsifp2hbq71.jpg?width=1024&auto=webp&s=86d4db78e667f3b84c0c114cabe485ea84fb3db0]

VFR750F RC24

[image: 1986 Honda VFR 750 at Las Vegas Motorcycles 2023 as W145 - Mecum Auctions]

Can actually be it's a bike made to look like a US/Canada RWB bike, thro it has the right instrument as top triple as engine covers. Can be it's just repainted in som point because of a damage? Don't know it's vin so I can't tell 

Well I have tough quite a bit on how I will proceed whit the RC24 

.

In a way a RWB paint would be cool.

[image: large.IMG_20230901_122203.jpg.bd997d3bc22ab3a1e64c48ca8fef1cf6.jpg]

On a other way I like the red as the brochure from 1989 got me to really like the RC24

[image: large.honda_vfr750f-89.jpg.d5a0bb54e5cbb076073be2bcf6f33ed3.jpg]

Then I also more and more like the color of the 87 I had back in time

[image: large.Screenshot_20230915-075148.jpg.ba70b23cd164e71655f426388f5f222b.jpg]

But also would like to turn it into something like one member here has done, on a 700RC26, hope ok I share a picture of it!

[image: large.20171119_1332541.jpg.53cac480b6a365fc0781958652a94e93.jpg]

It's sure a sweet build!

Have to see what I go for, for starters think I just se it works ok and put some miles/kms on it as it is after I get the pulse generators as change the clutch line.

Then go thro it technically during winter.

40 minutes ago, keny

But also would like to turn it into something like one member here has done, on a 700RC26, hope ok I share a picture of it!

[image: large.20171119_1332541.jpg.53cac480b6a365fc0781958652a94e93.jpg]

It's sure a sweet build!

That 'blade fairing works surprisingly well. Being picky to fit perfectly it wants the mid panels to be longer so the belly pan sits lower and the radiator vents to be more "lined up" with the actual rad but that would be an astonishingly large amount of work to pull off for what is intended as a track bike! 

1 hour ago, keny

Can actually be it's a bike made to look like a US/Canada RWB bike, thro it has the right instrument as top triple as engine covers. Can be it's just repainted in som point because of a damage? Don't know it's vin so I can't tell 

It could be but I believe the rounded clocks etc were only ever for the RWB scheme in the US/Canada market and they only got the "square" clocks for the VFR700F2 while everyone else just had the square clocks (and no RWB option).

It's not impossible that someone has rebuilt a non-US bike with US parts as RWB but IMO a far higher probability it's an "import" (which also makes it a higher probability it's a VFR700F RC26).

5 hours ago, Fastdruid

That 'blade fairing works surprisingly well. Being picky to fit perfectly it wants the mid panels to be longer so the belly pan sits lower and the radiator vents to be more "lined up" with the actual rad but that would be an astonishingly large amount of work to pull off for what is intended as a track bike! 

There's always decisions and compromises to be made in doing something like this.  Most importantly, the headlights need to be at the right height (low enough), and far enough forward, and still allow room for the front fender, gauges and clip ons..  Most custom attempts I see, the cowl is way too high and back and looks off.

[image: 20201015_172919.thumb.jpg.a74435380b210a72453c1c050d941fdb.jpg]

After that making sure the sides match the the angle of the frame.  Everything else is what it is.  The rad openings are not terribly off to vent.  The lowers?  make adjustments and hope it looks decent.  Lines look good, cowl mounts are in reasonable places.

[image: 20171119_133310_resize.thumb.jpg.797b7e3c9a3083b66ebe8d0f0aa20574.jpg]

[image: 20171119_133602_resize.thumb.jpg.ea968a46ccc2b6f3b9062785a3bd3ef5.jpg]

Pretty fucking hard to take Blade fairings made for a super short bike with clipons under the top clamp, and fit to an old, tall bike. 

[image: 20171116_214913_resize.thumb.jpg.27a8c66a6c7ac59cf83f07733b7e16a8.jpg]

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33 minutes ago, Captain 80s

There's always decisions and compromises to be made in doing something like this.  Most importantly, the headlights need to be at the right height (low enough), and far enough forward, and still allow room for the front fender, gauges and clip ons..  Most custom attempts I see, the cowl is way too high and back and looks off.

[image: 20201015_172919.thumb.jpg.a74435380b210a72453c1c050d941fdb.jpg]

After that making sure the sides match the the angle of the frame.  Everything else is what it is.  The rad openings are not terribly off to vent.  The lowers?  make adjustments and hope it looks decent.  Lines look good, cowl mounts are in reasonable places.

[image: 20171119_133310_resize.thumb.jpg.797b7e3c9a3083b66ebe8d0f0aa20574.jpg]

[image: 20171119_133602_resize.thumb.jpg.ea968a46ccc2b6f3b9062785a3bd3ef5.jpg]

Pretty fucking hard to take Blade fairings made for a super short bike with clipons under the top clamp, and fit to an old, tall bike. 

Absolutely.  It would have been a pig of a job cutting and joining multiple sets and for very little gain, particularly for a track bike where chance of damage and having to replace it is high! 

The RC24 while a sports bike for its era is very different dimensionally to later sports bikes and most efforts to fit a different fairing (or seat) look really wrong.  Yours with the 'blade fairing works really quite well. 

2 minutes ago, Fastdruid

Absolutely.  It would have been a pig of a job cutting and joining multiple sets and for very little gain, particularly for a track bike where chance of damage and having to replace it is high! 

The RC24 while a sports bike for its era is very different dimensionally to later sports bikes and most efforts to fit a different fairing (or seat) look really wrong.  Yours with the 'blade fairing works really quite well. 

Thank you.  Started as a Track Bike.  Came out so good, I finished the build with the street equipment and then later swapped in a frame with a title.

Getting ready.

[image: 20200918_155806.thumb.jpg.1bf2b7c56592015fc1b871e13690a503.jpg]

Titled bike on the lift with another engine.  It actually made the swap easier and now I have the original engine completely restored as a spare.

[image: 20201010_174932.thumb.jpg.c6ec9fc083320ecdf1c55b603327769e.jpg]

Actually a other faring whit twin headlights that could possibly fit, what I think, as the orginal bike is a bit higher is a 87-88 Yamaha FZR1000/750  faring

[image: large.YamahaFZR1000a1.jpg.3479e23fa43b7c90f04a9627947759da.jpg]

Also a option to get twin headlights is a top fairing that French Poly26 make but sadly the company has a reputation of not so good build quality and still quite high prices...

[image: large.Screenshot_20230921-181911.jpg.14cbee5bbaf88e0537014e02528b6e89.jpg]

19 minutes ago, Captain 80s

I have the original engine completely restored as a spare.

I have spare socks...

CBR1000RR can kind of be made to fit too. Although probably not with stock bars. 

 [image: image.jpeg.a8535bc11e6406592bc37d7e1216a227.jpeg]

33 minutes ago, keny

Actually a other faring whit twin headlights that could possibly fit, what I think, as the original bike is a bit higher is a 87-88 Yamaha FZR1000/750  faring

I just can't cross-pollinate like that.    The only reason I even went down the CBR900RR path is because I got the upper with OEM headlights and bracket and the L & R mids for free.

2 minutes ago, Fastdruid

CBR1000RR can kind of be made to fit too. Although probably not with stock bars. 

 [image: image.jpeg.a8535bc11e6406592bc37d7e1216a227.jpeg]

Two round headlights were a requirement for an "RC" tribute.

58 minutes ago, Captain 80s

I just can't cross-pollinate like that.    The only reason I even went down the CBR900RR path is because I got the upper with OEM headlights and bracket and the L & R mids for free.

I recall you had them around yes, not parts you get for free these days...

I know some can't think of parts from other make, I don't mind, that's probably why I have bikes from 3 different makes in my garage 🤷

The 900rr faring still look stunning through 👍

4 hours ago, Captain 80s

Thank you.  Started as a Track Bike.  Came out so good, I finished the build with the street equipment and then later swapped in a frame with a title.

Getting ready.

[image: 20200918_155806.thumb.jpg.1bf2b7c56592015fc1b871e13690a503.jpg]

Titled bike on the lift with another engine.  It actually made the swap easier and now I have the original engine completely restored as a spare.

[image: 20201010_174932.thumb.jpg.c6ec9fc083320ecdf1c55b603327769e.jpg]

Whats the story with the radiator reservoir? Looks like it freed up a lot of space.

It's off of a Honda CH150 Elite scooter.  I think I was trying to declutter a bit and reduce some bulk.   Didn't think I needed a huge reservoir tank for what the bike was originally being built for.  Hasn't been an issue on the street.  Think I overflowed once, but an old radiator cap was to blame.  No problems since. 

Started off as this:

[image: ch150_tank.thumb.jpg.e1076eac57162400db78379b63f02139.jpg]

I would always save them when we disassembled totalled or abandoned scooters at the Honda Shop.  Plus got a Fucke-Tonne of original Honda bolts and hardware.

This morning did change the clutch line on the VFR, the "new" old off a 1987 bike again show how many changes there was from 86 to 87 even they look alike

[image: large.IMG_20230923_100804.jpg.27d0b1a7cece47c8401417de28414470.jpg]

86 to right 87 to left. The 86 had it partially as a steel pipe, To me the 86 actually is a bit more bling to me.

Also the lower mount has moved from faring mount to engine mount

[image: large.IMG_20230923_104806.jpg.151b144c772f6859eaae9db1a01cfffe.jpg]

By the way what is the length of the faring mount where the 86 had the clutch line mount? I know the 86 has a cool special long bolt whit treads for fairing bolt in the end where 87 has a small bracket, I want to make a special bolt for this, now has just a straight pin whit treads in both ends....

4 hours ago, keny

By the way what is the length of the faring mount

Mine is 4.040" .  I would like to make a set for my bike, but done have access to a lathe anymore. My bike has a different looking stay on the right side that I would like to replace with a matching one. 

If you need more dimensions or pics let me know.

[post text not recovered]

tsmitty, 9/23/2023 at 4:30 PM

[image: image.jpeg]

Thanks!, now I just need to convert all measurements to metric to understand anything 😅

3 hours ago, keny

Thanks!, now I just need to convert all measurements to metric to understand anything 😅

100mm length of 12mm bar turned down to 8mm in the centre... personally I wouldn't overly worry about being exact,  just do what looks right.  

keny, 9/21/2023 at 10:26 AM

Can actually be it's a bike made to look like a US/Canada RWB bike, thro it has the right instrument as top triple as engine covers.

A set of round clocks is on it's way to you. 

3 hours ago, V4 Rosso

A set of round clocks is on it's way to you. 

You can't know how thankful I am for this 🙏😎

Got some percels yesterday

[image: large.IMG_20230930_092227.jpg.eceabc66697ac7df3b52e2b82da4c167.jpg]

Whit some parts for the RC24.

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Got a little greedy and now I have 2sets of pulse generators, hopefully one set works, better both so I have a spare set.

Thanks very much for the 86 us clock's V4Rosso! And the fairing inners that was missing from the bike I bought, well these are of a 88-89 bike, so slightly different, upper mouth match but not lower but they will work 🙂

Well the pulse generators are mounted

[image: large.IMG_20231002_083636.jpg.ff59d20f18e5547af5165e1f2bc7c749.jpg]

Oil in engine after clutch cover mounted whit old gasket as sealant.

Sadly the rear carburators started  leaking again (like as I picked up the bike, did not leak next day) so have to wait to tomorrow (sadly moved to weekend) to see if bike run longer than getting warm.

[image: large.IMG_20231002_120630.jpg.27f1925a6b18f8c36075a1a408595623.jpg]

Needs new O-rings for float chambers for sure. Strange the clutch cover seems to hold tight where's the oil plug is leaking even has new cuppar washers 🤔

Well the test run have to wait as it's pouring rain outside and I don't want to run the bike inside. But there is other stuff you can do, like start the repair of the tail section

[image: large.IMG_20231007_081919.jpg.c60de45af77c667fd92bd9002bf154c4.jpg][image: large.IMG_20231007_081906.jpg.9a7e53fbd23d7f2fe5c52f4969c2805f.jpg]

As typical for the RC24, it cracks above the tail light in front end, did use aluminum mosquito nets that I melt into the plastic whit a soldering iron

[image: large.IMG_20231007_081934.jpg.8bb6f5ba39f915a5cc8cda68bcf93e32.jpg]

Seems to work well 😊

So much of the RC24 is well designed and then other parts....not so much! The tail light (and that whole rear section being one of them). 

I've lost the entire tail light before.  Clean snapped off and vanished. No idea where it went. 

[image: image.thumb.png.61f7db5b210ffa119b8957425b92d6fd.png]

Current one I've glued (using a PU adhesive) the tail light to the plastic to make it one "piece". 

Still need to fix the tabs at the front though. 

I agree, the tail section has a to heavy tail light for the thin plastic to carry. 

Well the pulse generators testing will need to wait to spring, the carbs still flooding so no sense to have it running so. Needs new float chamber O-rings first.

Captain 80s, 9/21/2023 at 7:24 AM

There's always decisions and compromises to be made in doing something like this.

Looks like you've got 17" wheels, was that one of the changes with the RC26?

Sorry I'm coming late to this thread and am looking forward to seeing Keny's project completed.

3 minutes ago, Lorne

Looks like you've got 17" wheels, was that one of the changes with the RC26?

With my RC26, yes.

1993 CBR600F2 front end (3.5x17) with Race Tech Cartridge Emulators and Springs, in 88/89 VFR750F triple clamps.  F2 rear wheel (4.5x17) with a Fox Twin Clicker.

Is getting F3 forks and wheel and F3 rear wheel (5.0x17).

13 hours ago, Captain 80s

Is getting F3 forks and wheel and F3 rear wheel (5.0x17).

You probably already know this but while the 1991-94 CBR600F2[1] and 1995-98 CBR600F3 require the same width spacers the diameters are different between them so you can't actually use the same spacers unless you swap the oil (dust) seals. 

I mention this because people commonly say the CBR600F3 rear wheel is a straight swap for the CBR600F2 rear. It is...but only if you bring all the spacers along as well! 

[1] I normally refuse to refer to them as F2/F3 etc because that's an Americanism[2], not what they're called here and we do have a CBR600F2 (which is a MY 2002) and CBF600F3 (MY 2003) but you are in the US! 🤣

[2] Brought to you by Honda USA Marketing department, the same department that brought you the RC51...which isn't a 750cc. 

5 hours ago, Fastdruid

You probably already know this

I just counted 7 wheel swap projects within eyesight in my shop using parts from this era. 

I've witnessed that even some of the best "tutorials" often overlook details and assume certain base knowledge, including my own.  It's almost like an inadvertent barrier to filter the skill level. 

If anybody just collects parts on comments and is surprised and disappointed when they go to assemble after new paint, bearings and seals, they probably shouldn't be doing this kind of work.

"But anybody can learn".  Then get your calipers out, get your hands dirty and do it.  Then ask more questions.

7 hours ago, Fastdruid

Brought to you by Honda USA Marketing department, the same department that brought you the RC51...which isn't a 750cc. 

Yeah, that was just dumb, always bugged me.  Stupid Americans.

[image: SC45.thumb.jpg.bcf45669351c93f65198c29ec2113fa8.jpg]

RC51.........

Did I hear anyone say VTR1000-SP2?   :laugh:

[image: as.jpg.e9c10073d4a5062738bca5224911e96c.jpg.e0b3c07135d87d2fda318ff3da730556.jpg.f9cd74ec0addd70ce4eb3f9bf239d900.jpg]

The bike did today get what it sure needed, would have a long time ago, a good wash!

[image: large.IMG_20231022_103138.jpg.c1db3241b149f06fa605091adc11f1b9.jpg][image: large.IMG_20231022_103154.jpg.6440a24dafbc2cedd3d66f69fb54ced7.jpg]

It sure had a lot of grown up muc at many places and the wheels did get a other kind of black 😅

Now it's nicer to tear apart 

Captain 80s, 10/17/2023 at 9:17 PM

Is getting F3 forks and wheel and F3 rear wheel (5.0x17).

So how will you make the Odo drive work whit the F3 front wheel?

Interested in that way as I have a cbr1000F (SC24) fork around as a CBR 900 RR front wheel that doesn't have the Odo drive even the early had. I just like the look whit smaller front wheel.....I know the 17" is more common as more easy to get tires for....

9 hours ago, keny

So how will you make the Odo drive work whit the F3 front wheel?

I won't.  And don't care on this bike.  I don't even have speedo cable attached to the F2 wheel. I know when I'm speeding and I know exactly how fast I'm going when I'm not.  I have a fuel light and a reserve switch.

23 hours ago, keny

So how will you make the Odo drive work whit the F3 front wheel?

Interested in that way as I have a cbr1000F (SC24) fork around as a CBR 900 RR front wheel that doesn't have the Odo drive even the early had. I just like the look whit smaller front wheel.....I know the 17" is more common as more easy to get tires for....

You can fit an RC36 sprocket cover and the speedo drive. I'm not too sure if the existing cable will fit or you'll need an RC36 one. 

You'll also need the clutch pushrod though (original is too short) and although I'm not entirely certain what the setup is on the early RC24 (all the part numbers are different to the later one) the RC36 has a longer output shaft so either an extra long head bolt or a longer adaptor and there TBH I'd 3D print one... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568948/files

Speedo will almost certainly be "out" though because the gearing will be wrong. 

Other alternative is do the same but fit a VFR800 electronic speedo drive and an electronic speedo. 

Fastdruid, 10/23/2023 at 11:11 AM

You can fit an RC36 sprocket cover and the speedo drive. I'm not too sure if the existing cable will fit or you'll need an RC36 one. 

You'll also need the clutch pushrod though (original is too short) and although I'm not entirely certain what the setup is on the early RC24 (all the part numbers are different to the later one) the RC36 has a longer output shaft so either an extra long head bolt or a longer adaptor and there TBH I'd 3D print one... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568948/files

Speedo will almost certainly be "out" though because the gearing will be wrong. 

Other alternative is do the same but fit a VFR800 electronic speedo drive and an electronic speedo. 

Thanks for this input. I did try this route on my 87 RC24 I had back in the days but one of the mounting bolts will not line up. I had the cover made slimmer to avoid the longer clutch push rod as keep the distance to sprocket the same. Eventually I sold the parts before testing as I sold the RC24 to buy a 5th gen.

The 4th gen also use a electric speedometer.

Well sometimes you get lucky!

A friend of mine that has not been working on bikes for 10+ years but before that built working bikes from damaged as street fighters to did go and digg in his storage and found what you see in next picture and did give me them for free!

[image: large.IMG_20231024_141609.jpg.398f831cb1f7dc41817ff2330be4a2df.jpg]

Well if you have seen my other topic in Europe section, I have been slowly bringing life to the friends KLR600, so guess it's a thanks for that.

keny, 10/24/2023 at 1:46 PM

Thanks for this input. I did try this route on my 87 RC24 I had back in the days but one of the mounting bolts will not line up. I had the cover made slimmer to avoid the longer clutch push rod as keep the distance to sprocket the same. Eventually I sold the parts before testing as I sold the RC24 to buy a 5th gen.

The 4th gen also use a electric speedometer.

It certainly fits the 88+ but the lower rear most bolt goes on to the gear-change mechanism cover which *does* differ between the 86-87 and 88+ so maybe it doesn't fit the 86/87. 

The part number for the 86-87 includes the gasket, the 88+ doesn't but the lack of a part number for just the cover on the 86-87 does suggest it's different. Although visually I can't see any differences. 

I'd missed that the RC36/2 used an electronic speedo. It might be a straight swap in, the only real issue being the trip meter reset and the holes for the trip on the RC24 are individual numbers rather than one "block". Tempted given the relatively low price of a new one (and because I have some spare clocks) to try and make it fit. 

Well not much has happened because after the bike wash I got a bad back and after that busy making new electricity to my house and it's still going on, but soon things will happen. Thro I can't decide if I will just get a NC24 front wheel or put the cbr1000f fork I have on it 🤔

Well as you have been reading in a other topic, been busy whit other stuff lately

But I think plan will be to ride it a bit next summer as it is, with orginal fairing, after the carbs are looked thro as got new float chamber o-rings and need to check the rear brake also. will find other parts still needed before starting the fairing conversion...

Could not resist these for 20€ a disc

[image: large.IMG_20231202_102115.jpg.e4b26bbeca3498f66b35533100bc3cba.jpg]

New that fits RC24 as my CBR600F2 also. 

A friend spotted them in a place that sell stuff from bankruptcy companies

Quit a bargain I think 

Let there be light so you can see what you do

[image: large.IMG_20231207_183004.jpg.91b08d587ba286b08fd4ecd07e20cfa5.jpg]

Will be connected soon. Led power

A few new bits shopped for my RC24 today

[image: large.IMG_20231216_153130.jpg.e8425eda6a7190ad912225c5d6f887b2.jpg]

And in shop was a pleasant surprise to look at

[image: large.IMG_20231216_141734.jpg.9396b10ba5f73ccc7e2599183ae3318e.jpg][image: large.IMG_20231216_142159.jpg.b78ab0954636a366121ca205b64d0ece.jpg][image: large.IMG_20231216_142235.jpg.2f6a5a05187c3ca29a622d6d667cc84c.jpg][image: large.IMG_20231216_142226.jpg.c26565b261b7fc6ed70366434a298fef.jpg][image: large.IMG_20231216_142216.jpg.de84a6c4076689a2175b49eebb86f3c0.jpg][image: large.IMG-20231216-WA0000.jpg.30c6184d27a9b3e2ff20cccd4c093621.jpg]

Sure would not mind one!

Been thinking what all I need to get this project together. I have come to the conclusion that the cbr900 fairing conversation might have to wait until next winter, for several reasons. I want to get all bikes I have as runner's, so my FJ1200 will need some love to, then also I need to find quit a few bits for the mod so need to find them first, and fund to buy them.

But I will try to ride the RC24 as is next summer for sure.

I got the carb float chamber o-rings as rear brake pads, aside that need to sort the oil leak from drain plug, leaking even new cupper washer... Then it needs a fresh front tire, and then I start to think if I would need to get a NC24 front rim same time so I don't need to change it later to other rim.

[image: large.Screenshot_20240102-110527.jpg.6fb9d672623f52ef1066859e2f44f3a8.jpg]

Would sure be nice.

And one more thing, the other fors dust seal is in need of change for sure! A picture of that later.....

I would verify the size of that wheel, width and diameter. It might look the part, but it might not be an upgrade.

Captain 80s, 1/2/2024 at 5:59 PM

I would verify the size of that wheel, width and diameter. It might look the part, but it might not be an upgrade.

Well that's a thing I been thinking off, might have most parts to do an convention, but as a former convention on a rc24 I had didn't work out to my liking, I actually turned that bike back to stock in front end. Yes the 37mm fork tubes are flexy, the diagonal tires not as grippy as modern radials, but I go love how fast the steering is whit the 16" wheel, had even the fork tubes lower in the triples to Kake it faster, a friend tough it was on the edge of being nervous! So that's why I'm towards just change the look of front wheel and add a cbr600F matching rear.

Well here some pictures of the things that need attention.

1. Fork seal dust cover

[image: large.IMG_20240104_102129.jpg.e4f6c42e497325b479dd34809bc31758.jpg]

The picture say it all, was wrapped whit electric tape as bike came to me.

Can't believe it was not changed as fork's are refurbished a few years back according to former owner!

2. Leaking oil plug

[image: large.IMG_20240104_102208.jpg.a63761742228a35f33fc59a6f4dcf3f1.jpg]

This is how much it has been leaking since I changed oil after I bought the bike, not huge but still needs sorting

3. Front tire

[image: large.IMG_20240104_102246.jpg.ba4ca89cfde23e6c9fce5252c37f9281.jpg]

The tire is not ballad, still soft rubber even DOT15, but has a deep cut over tread that is not a good thing. Fresh one needed.

Damn Kenny, wish I could help you! 

Is that lower fork tube broken?  Regardless, the forks don't look like they ever been touched.

Do you think the oil pans' fatal and if so, how deep do you have to go to get that out of there?

Good luck Dude! 

4 hours ago, keny

Well that's a thing I been thinking off, might have most parts to do an convention, but as a former convention on a rc24 I had didn't work out to my liking, I actually turned that bike back to stock in front end. Yes the 37mm fork tubes are flexy, the diagonal tires not as grippy as modern radials, but I go love how fast the steering is whit the 16" wheel, had even the fork tubes lower in the triples to Kake it faster, a friend tough it was on the edge of being nervous! So that's why I'm towards just change the look of front wheel and add a cbr600F matching rear.

What specifically "didn't work out" to your liking?

4 hours ago, keny

Well here some pictures of the things that need attention.

1. Fork seal dust cover

[image: large.IMG_20240104_102129.jpg.e4f6c42e497325b479dd34809bc31758.jpg]

The picture say it all, was wrapped whit electric tape as bike came to me.

Can't believe it was not changed as fork's are refurbished a few years back according to former owner!

2. Leaking oil plug

[image: large.IMG_20240104_102208.jpg.a63761742228a35f33fc59a6f4dcf3f1.jpg]

This is how much it has been leaking since I changed oil after I bought the bike, not huge but still needs sorting

3. Front tire

[image: large.IMG_20240104_102246.jpg.ba4ca89cfde23e6c9fce5252c37f9281.jpg]

The tire is not ballad, still soft rubber even DOT15, but has a deep cut over tread that is not a good thing. Fresh one needed.

"Refurbished a few years back" = "splitting dust seal from corrosion wrapped in electrical tape last century"

Clean the oil pan and apply some baby powder if you're not sure where it's leaking from.  

17 hours ago, Captain 80s

What specifically "didn't work out" to your liking?

Like I did say I really like how fast the handling is whit the 16" wheel, specially as fork's are dropped a bit.

Whit the fork I tried (94 ZX9R) steering was slow, so slow it was scary, it just didn't want to turn. I had a 18" PVM modular rear wheel of a old gsxr rear whit a 170/60 tire and a slightly longer shock, 2 mm longer than orginal Hagon. Even it's spring was on stiff side and no preload steering was really heavy.

So I prefer to not to mess whit the steering again. 

17 hours ago, Captain 80s

"Refurbished a few years back" = "splitting dust seal from corrosion wrapped in electrical tape last century"

Clean the oil pan and apply some baby powder if you're not sure where it's leaking from.  

😅 Yes, not a pro fork rebuild

The oil pan is leaking from oil plug

6 hours ago, keny

Like I did say I really like how fast the handling is whit the 16" wheel, specially as fork's are dropped a bit.

Whit the fork I tried (94 ZX9R) steering was slow, so slow it was scary, it just didn't want to turn. I had a 18" PVM modular rear wheel of a old gsxr rear whit a 170/60 tire and a slightly longer shock, 2 mm longer than orginal Hagon. Even it's spring was on stiff side and no preload steering was really heavy.

So I prefer to not to mess whit the steering again. 

There is nothing wrong with how a stock VFR handles, so liking that 16" front is expected. But it sounds like you just didn't get lucky with the geometry throwing parts together.  Slow steering is certainly not a characteristic of a 3.5 x 17 front wheel on a properly modded VFR.

Captain 80s, 1/5/2024 at 2:29 PM

There is nothing wrong with how a stock VFR handles, so liking that 16" front is expected. But it sounds like you just didn't get lucky with the geometry throwing parts together.  Slow steering is certainly not a characteristic of a 3.5 x 17 front wheel on a properly modded VFR.

100% this. Ok so I have an 88 with the 17in front/rear, the suspension is dated and both soft and harsh at the same time (wonders of damper rod forks) and as stock it wallowed round longer faster bends (IMO entirely down to the soft front). But it handles way better than it has any right to for a bike that old. Admittedly does need more muscling to really get the best from it, my particular favourite with it was the point and squirt. Brake late and deep, get it turned quick, get it upright and fire it out. 

You *can* end up with slower steering with the 17in wheel conversion depending on which *REAR* tyres you go for but as all the 3.5" front choices are smaller (575.8mm for a 120/60R17, 599.8mm for a 120/70R17 vs 607.8mm for the 110/80V17) if that is the only change then you won't. 

The geometry on the RC24 is very much on the stable side so you can get away with a fair bit before it gets "nervous"...but you do then start to run out of ground clearance. Better to raise the rear IMO. 

While a 170/60R18 is damn near identical sized to the 140/80V17 or 130/80/V18 a 170 is going to feel very different to a 130! You've got to lean it more for the same speed and it's going to feel less nimble because of that. My suspicion would be however with changing the forks it was a combination of factors, maybe even the offset was wrong (as it would have needed different yokes) and gave you too much trail which made it overly stable. 

Certainly I've been burnt in the past changing too much at once, change one thing see how it works and then change the next thing keeping notes of what works and what doesn't. Changing everything at once is how I ruined the handling of my track bike (which I've *finally* sorted). 

Well I have had 3 RC24, all whit 16/18 wheels, first a 87, next 2 86 Models.

The 87 I did modifications to mostly, 

But yes, the geometry got screwed up.

I had a Hagon shock rear whit a stiff spring as back then my former wife did like to join rides as pillion. Singel riding it was a bit to stiff actually but helped whit geometry.

The ZX9R sure has quit a stepper head angle, and it's not much shorter than orginal. Whit a 110/70 tire the steering was a bit better but even the tire is approved on a 3,5 rim I easy used all tread in normal riding, so profile was to flat. Also had a 160/60 rear (18") as the 170/60 did wear out as more available.

[image: gallery_880_2173_17480.jpeg]

Here my 87 whit that ZX9R fork

[image: gallery_880_2173_89490.jpeg]

Side view

But eventually did put stock fork back on.

Did rebuild the forks as brake's, WP springs and 15w oil that made them a bit hash on sharp bumps but handling was good otherwise. Tried a hurricane front wheel whit a 110/70 front tire but it was scary laying down much as the 110/70 needs a 3" rim, 2,5" rim is to slim.

[image: gallery_880_2173_51870.jpg]

Here on a hurricane front wheel in Germany 2008 whit a 110/70-17, sceary in corners...

[image: gallery_880_2173_30427.jpg]

Next tried a 110/80 but was not long on the rim, or tire was but changed the front wheel back to orginal 16"

[image: gallery_880_2173_85648.jpg]

On that black painted orginal wheel I had brake disc's from a NC24 whit semi floating design, looked cool at least

I at times regret selling this 87, I ever had a chance to buy it back but didn't have money just then. Had a 5th gen after this which was a great bike, but needed far higher speed to get same thrills the just little modified RC24 give. 

And thing's I then lived whit, like a loud Micron exhaust, now could not 😅

The mirrors on other had I did like a lot! 

[image: large.IMG_5089.JPG.2cf2c360353cca6a99124e453c9a7ae8.JPG]

Here the first 86, just before it did disappear from my garage, I did live in a time when bikes came as did go then... Well perhaps still do but hope to slow down whit that......

The stock 86 forks look so flippin spindly compared to the ZX9! 

Some stuff came in mail today

[image: large.IMG_20240108_181918.jpg.3ebdcfb1afb930d4e61fc529be342f6b.jpg]

The reason I change the fuel cap is the old one is hard to open as the key is broken inside the lock

[image: large.IMG_20240108_182314.jpg.2d0110a783c7350620ddc80dc07482a9.jpg]

The design is slightly different but fits, need to find a few matching bolts through as different looks

[image: large.IMG_20240108_182437.jpg.8837dca03986012b17c3c7f86e5ebcb2.jpg]

So slow progress but still some 

Not sure if you've done any pre-fitting, but while the bolt patterns look the same, they are actually off a little.  The RC24 is unique and slightly different than every other Honda from 1987 on.

There might be enough room to slightly elongate the holes to mount.

EDIT:  Sorry.  Re-read your post and I missed "but fits".  Carry on.

I’d still check the bolts fit, the one I bought for my 89 didn’t 

Thumbs, 1/17/2024 at 2:51 PM

I’d still check the bolts fit, the one I bought for my 89 didn’t 

I do have to check then! I actually just did put the new on top on the old and did look alike.... 🤞

Fastdruid, 1/6/2024 at 8:21 PM

The geometry on the RC24 is very much on the stable side so you can get away with a fair bit before it gets "nervous"...but you do then start to run out of ground clearance. Better to raise the rear IMO. 

If I recall right I dropped the orginal forks as much I could whit a marginal for flex that the front wheel didn`t hit the engine, and that was 13mm if I recall right, so quit a bit!

But steering was super fast!

Captain 80s, 1/16/2024 at 7:39 PM

EDIT:  Sorry.  Re-read your post and I missed "but fits".  Carry on.

Captain 80s, 1/16/2024 at 7:39 PM

I should have written looks like it fits,

But you are right, it doesn't fit. The 2 back bolts has a 3mm difference in mounting, to big to drill out plus there is a height difference to. Was the bolling whit idea to take out the pin that holds the cap from the holder ring, but even there is a difference in height between look that slide out and sealing surface. Amen, need to return the fuel cap I bought

[image: large.IMG_20240122_170557.jpg.cfb7a2e03044b69921ea27bfa12a789d.jpg]

But as cap off cleaned the surface inside it, and cap back on.... Tank needs a good deep polish for sure! But looks good inside

[image: large.IMG_20240122_171311.jpg.cc935dc0d243f5fce8954cfd6d55412c.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240122_171540.jpg.ef03f515346281bede105c7a007a39a6.jpg]

Thumbs, 1/17/2024 at 2:51 PM

I’d still check the bolts fit, the one I bought for my 89 didn’t 

So all years of RC24(26) has same bolt pattern for the fuel cap? Just looked that according to part number 86, 87 different as 88/89 but those 2 year have same 

I know the 88 has the same pattern as 86/87.

I have seen pics of a key less Tyga CBR cap "adjusted" to fit an 88.  Can't speak to the absolute quality of fitment.

keny can you possibly re-fit the hinge of the new cap to fit your old ring? 

1 hour ago, tsmitty

keny can you possibly re-fit the hinge of the new cap to fit your old ring? 

I could but the measurement between the seal area and the lock latch is slightly different on new vs old so will not work.

Inspected the cut in current front tire, looks like a act of destruction, it's sure deep so no chance I want to ride whit it, a new one needed even there price are almost crazy today......

[image: large.Screenshot_20240204-110915.jpg.bcf889738a3e0608b4a0baa75fcc32d6.jpg]

A flat screwdriver what I open the cut whit 

Is the structure cut or is it just rubber? 

Pretty sure that is actually the "seam" when they made the tire, delaminating.  I have seen it many times at the shop, including one of my bikes.  It looks like somebody took a blade across it.  Avon bias ply did it for a few years.  And some Pirelli I think.  Customers were convinced of vandalism, but it wasn't the case.

It's one of the reasons tires are directional besides water dispersment of the tread pattern.  The acceleration and braking forces can start pulling that apart if ran in the wrong direction.  But it can still happen even if mounted properly.

Your tire sure looks OLD anyway.  What's the date code?

One model Dunlop did it too a long time ago. 

16 hours ago, Captain 80s

Your tire sure looks OLD anyway.  What's the date code?

It has DOT 2015, rubber feels soft. It's a Pirelli Sport Demon, one of 4 you get in this size nowadays.

Just ordered a Dunlop Street smart that I been reading much good of. Only Smart choice I think even was hoping to test the bike working good next summer whit the current tires, in case I go for a fork convention anyway, But for now orginal size it will be....

The Pirelli Sport Demons I ran ran on my '87 Ninja 600 never did that, but they didn't make it close to 7 years either. I would ditch those without hesitation.

Only 9 years old? lol Yea...I'd get rid of those! They're probably fine for running around, but I wouldn't want to have to rely on them in an emergency situation. 

I bought a VF500F2 for keny 11 years ago with 15? year old BT45's on it. Thread depth was good. So keny opted to ride some 1600kms in 23 hours to Stockholm to catch the ferry to Finland.

Keny will be fine with 9 yr old tires no problemo.... 😁

8 hours ago, Dutchy

I bought a VF500F2 for keny 11 years ago with 15? year old BT45's on it. Thread depth was good. So keny opted to ride some 1600kms in 23 hours to Stockholm to catch the ferry to Finland.

Keny will be fine with 9 yr old tires no problemo.... 😁

Was actually Metzeler's and yes was from 98/02 (rear/front), did svamp to fresh Bridgestone as I arrived home, was only straight roads thro Germany as Sweden home 😁

Is it really 11 years ago.... Time fly

Today ordered 2 second hand wheels, a CBR600F2 for the rear and a VFR400 NC24 front wheel.

Some small progress today, well most of time to sort stuff after the move last year as some inspiration what needs to be done. The sorting mainly to get the VFR finally in place so can be worked on easy.

From beginning noticed the rear brake needs sorting as dragging as making some sound moving bike backwards.

The brake pads are close to end of life as uneven worn. Hard to see in picture 

[image: large.IMG_20240211_111727.jpg.6065235ffdb180f87a27171808ff0371.jpg]

Brake disk has some wear but not bad so will use it as long the orginal wheel is in place. The locking plate for the pins holding the brake pads is missing and locked by a steel wire 

[image: large.IMG_20240211_111740.jpg.fb5abcbc5fcfffa6ca9b9f5c696b68a5.jpg]

Looking into the bolt hole you see why the looking plate is missing, the bolt hole for the bolt looking it has no treads left...

[image: large.IMG_20240211_111803.jpg.2a348a52806a494abf6183057dfba7d9.jpg]

So treads need to be made. I should have a looking plate around, need to find it.

Have first to take the caliper off and see if pistons are badly jammed, hopefully not.

As I inspected the rear brake noticed there might need to be some modifications made to the Devil 4-1 exhaust as I raising the tail, looks close to swingarm

[image: large.IMG_20240211_111848.jpg.c9a1ab5f86850a99adbd42297c0b560b.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240211_195448.jpg.a90ea64c124cf0bb797aaf3198b59884.jpg]

So to do list don't get shorter, but I think a small dent in the pipe might sort clearance issues whit out power loss you can feel, it's a big diameter pipe in this section.

Brake pads close to end of life? Hardly...unless they're a lot thinner on the side we can't see. Clean them up with a brass brush and clean the rotors and run those suckers. New pads are only a few mm thick, so what looks like 1.5-2.0mm left is probably 1/2 to 1/3 of life left...so 10k miles? 

Take the calipers off and clean the pins, especially #13

[image: image.png.3caf4e36ead41d36e42dd8e186088ec1.png]

Bet ya it will look like this...

[image: image.png.9ae148700f4eab8a0953c84639e09b0f.png]

the same thing appeared on a vfr i bought a few years ago, something proper maintenance would prevent.

[image: post-3647-0-97799300-1460171157.jpg.fe071a2b56fce57773ce930bb300a397.jpg]

Arrived today

[image: large.IMG_20240212_180555.jpg.cce41cdb49411760675f4822ddc9637e.jpg]

Let us know how you like them once you get some miles in. I went Roadsmart 3 on both of my VFRs, but wouldn't mind saving some dosh next time around. 

bmart, 2/11/2024 at 7:23 PM

Brake pads close to end of life? Hardly...unless they're a lot thinner on the side we can't see. Clean them up with a brass brush and clean the rotors and run those suckers. New pads are only a few mm thick, so what looks like 1.5-2.0mm left is probably 1/2 to 1/3 of life left...so 10k miles? 

Well brake pads off now and think they are shoot

[image: large.IMG_20240213_072011.jpg.8ce8e44dcb2a1aa07b76f20bdb34d741.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240213_072130.jpg.652b7a151db9a50b66bfcbb4e9073881.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240213_072117.jpg.8ffa21954cc960745b47aac2b1a52da9.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240213_072058.jpg.e70869b502db25476c796ca9d643e9d2.jpg]

Dutchy, 2/11/2024 at 11:47 PM

Take the calipers off and clean the pins, especially #13

[image: image.png.3caf4e36ead41d36e42dd8e186088ec1.png]

Bet ya it will look like this...

[image: image.png.9ae148700f4eab8a0953c84639e09b0f.png]

Well didn't look that bad even not good

[image: large.IMG_20240213_071949.jpg.3f6bd5b5ce4ac30b48fc7a538c606626.jpg]

The pistons are bearly moving, specially one of them but eventually got them out, a rebuild kit for rear caliper needed

[image: large.IMG_20240213_071957.jpg.0ad6b8aa153a4a90c422bf5730f32942.jpg]

12 hours ago, bmart

Let us know how you like them once you get some miles in. I went Roadsmart 3 on both of my VFRs, but wouldn't mind saving some dosh next time around. 

One I know recommend these strongly, he use them on a old FJ1200 and think they are almost as good as a radial tire. I will know this summer 

Yeah, replace them pads. Even with Chinese ones if the price is low...

Chances are you will sell the bike within 6 months anyway  :goofy:

Today 2 quite different size boxes arrived

[image: large.IMG_20240214_174017.jpg.53f652c32001bc29bc1870b4065f3e7e.jpg]

What was in the 2 boxes

[image: large.IMG_20240214_174413.jpg.8e415a1eb904a10ef39c64144938a72e.jpg]

The black in the smaller box whit just some styrofoam on other side of rim, the red in the bigger box that had a lot of cardboard (sheets as boxes) inside, how I like to see things packed! Both had survive the shipping ok thro

What rear tire are you gonna mate up with that bias front?

That's a 4.5x17 rear?  And a 2.5x16 front?

Yes, 2,5x16 front 4,5x17 rear. I was first thinking of a cb seven fifty F2 (1992 on) rear wheel that is 4" wide as a rear and convent from 17 to 20mm axle, but then thought at 4,5 is a better choice if I in some point decide to try the cbr1000f fork I have...

I'm not sure what size yet tire

Been looking at outer diameters and sizes and 150/70 or 160/70 are mostly what I been looking at, depending on what shock I end up whit. I can go bias or radial in those size. The 160/60-17 that the CBR F2 has as stock is slightly smaller in diameter. I know one that has used the StreetSmart front whit a Radial (Avon) rear whit excellent results (on a FJ1200 that has 16" wheels).

So a matching StreetSmart or RoadSmart perhaps or a GPR300 if a Dunlop, I will see, next summer I plan to still use OEM rear wheel as it has a good tire, to see the bike runs good, then next winter do bigger change to the bike, rear wheel as shock and hopefully the CBR900 fairing.

Rear brake caliper pistons out finally, need seriously cleaning, but will probably then be good to use again.

[image: large.IMG_20240216_165459.jpg.97e7136c1a65108363e763ce0987b4ab.jpg]

Also got this in the mail today

[image: large.IMG_20240216_192105.jpg.3088b84673904fe9671526174fceda89.jpg]

A rebuild kit for front brake calipers! A rebuild kit for the rear is on the way.

I just couldn't resist this as even the label says 41€ (69€ in a local motorcycle stores webshop) I got this for 20€ (+2,5€ postage) that I think is a steal, I recall how much better the front brakes became on my 87 back in time after I did rebuild the front brake calipers whit new rebuild kit.

It's amazing how much better brakes become when you open them up, clean out the crud and corrosion behind the seals and put in nice new seals with cleaned up pistons. I'm not sure if it's braking power increases or brake feel but, either way, it's really worth the time to do! 

Got the kit for rear brake caliper as well

[image: large.IMG_20240220_072734.jpg.68671b20235394c57ecf715f573aa170.jpg]

Also some other stuff arrived

A much nicer rear wheel axle

[image: large.IMG_20240220_073109.jpg.53b640657a08027694cde85eaf3b8156.jpg]

A OEM front mudflap bracket

[image: large.IMG_20240220_073049.jpg.58854d0adf27bbc18f08560204136df1.jpg]

And a seat, that needs cleaning but much better condition than the one that came whit bike, and color fits current bike color as well, as I plan to run bike as stock looking now first season. Got it for 20€!

[image: large.IMG_20240220_073042.jpg.c183d0bc4fed67f8086f6ef269acbe06.jpg]

Saturday did buy a pad that erase stickers as I want the current silver stickers off, a very effective tool for that!

[image: large.IMG_20240220_065738.jpg.2d3edf079ca6fa8c2faef069be236ad6.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240220_071500.jpg.c2fe9ce89eba2ca3ead9be5ee6bcff34.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240220_072658.jpg.cae561ff741cb35fbc39b76dc98e2fd7.jpg]

Now the polish can begun 

keny, 9/23/2023 at 4:09 AM

[image: large.IMG_20230923_104806.jpg.151b144c772f6859eaae9db1a01cfffe.jpg]

By the way what is the length of the faring mount where the 86 had the clutch line mount? I know the 86 has a cool special long bolt whit treads for fairing bolt in the end where 87 has a small bracket, I want to make a special bolt for this, now has just a straight pin whit treads in both ends....

Keny, I have a hard time keeping up with these forums but did you ever get this issue worked out? Between then and now I made a set of these and have a set to give if you want.

[image: untitledshoot-1272.thumb.jpg.4ac700f3b2da9d3f4db717d755fbaed0.jpg][image: untitledshoot-1270.thumb.jpg.2dec206086dff2139c3fc262485bc4a5.jpg]

Sorry for the interruption folks...

6 hours ago, tsmitty

Keny, I have a hard time keeping up with these forums but did you ever get this issue worked out? Between then and now I made a set of these and have a set to give if you want.

[image: untitledshoot-1272.thumb.jpg.4ac700f3b2da9d3f4db717d755fbaed0.jpg][image: untitledshoot-1270.thumb.jpg.2dec206086dff2139c3fc262485bc4a5.jpg]

Sorry for the interruption folks...

Have not made a pair yet even I have some ideas.

Give me a pm to let me know where your located as want for them.

Trying to erase the black paint from stock rear wheel, by eraiser that you spray on as wash away

[image: large.IMG_20240228_115751.jpg.b4612b343f10b4af5db0d0123117a64a.jpg]

In picture fluid is doing the magic

[image: large.IMG_20240228_132802.jpg.1ebd2a97af2613026e01ef1d5068fd88.jpg]

After power washer done it's job, needs a second round and better clothing to not get wet....

Happen I scored a reasonable price passenger seat cover cowl, not perfect but will do

[image: large.Screenshot_20240228-123121.jpg.2942ad4c2953ac07cd5360d2ce22954f.jpg]

Should get it in a few weeks 

So today got a few boxes again.

First the passenger seat cowl arrived, not perfect but ok, will be painted anyway.

[image: large.IMG_20240307_194710.jpg.3ccbf9af383f1634fdd8a9c337533ff2.jpg]

Then from a other place ordered a few bits that are from a 88-89 model, a gear shift level as min is missing the rubber, but even length is same design is sure different!

[image: large.IMG_20240307_194102.jpg.db13a4dcee3ce19dd836472a5bc67914.jpg]

A pair of front turn signals that I hope to retrofit to the front fairing

[image: large.IMG_20240307_194318.jpg.870da72180718e72bc8b026978533f9b.jpg]

Along was also a set of clipons in case I change the fork at some point, forgot to take a picture of them through 

16 hours ago, keny

Then from a other place ordered a few bits that are from a 88-89 model, a gear shift level as min is missing the rubber, but even length is same design is sure different!

[image: large.IMG_20240307_194102.jpg.db13a4dcee3ce19dd836472a5bc67914.jpg]

Another sign of how different the different years of RC24 are. 

The 88/89 uses the same gearbox as the RC30 (although different ratios), with the exception of the shafts and gears themselves all the parts are RC30! 

...but the actual gear change shaft comes out in a different location hence the different lever! 

Captain 80s, 1/5/2024 at 4:29 PM

There is nothing wrong with how a stock VFR handles, so liking that 16" front is expected. But it sounds like you just didn't get lucky with the geometry throwing parts together.  Slow steering is certainly not a characteristic of a 3.5 x 17 front wheel on a properly modded VFR.

So I have been looking into your posting of making your bike both here on vfrd as the other forum, so you eventually got 88-89 VFR750F triples. 

I'm curious to know how much apart from each other the fork legs are in them, and what's the difference to a F2 cbr, even I can measure that from my F2.

The idea of later put a other front en on is not in the trash can even I like the stock 16" wheel feel

The width of the triples is the same as the CBR, but the offset is different (CBR is less) resulting in different trail numbers, everything else being the same.

They share the same width and offset as 90-97 VFRs and 90-96 CBR1000F.

At the time I thought I needed the 88/89 upper triple to match the lower, but I could have used something a little nicer looking from the later VFR.  I don't run an ignition switch on this bike, so I wasn't concerned with mounting or steering lock pin engagement.

Found it issue why other brake pad is angled bad. The plate in bottom of brake caliper has Ben modified badly

[image: large.IMG_20240317_102600.jpg.6e8507ea6cc77f8540a81aff7412b451.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240317_102600__01.jpg.daac9e786aa757665bb637e587baf6b2.jpg]

This is how it should look

[image: large.Screenshot_20240317-105410.jpg.10ab5d5aa0ce7ffa3cf8bf2056df6e83.jpg]

[image: large.Screenshot_20240317-105410__01__01.jpg.6cbeef9ca48d4f8873b0294767e9a7d4.jpg]

Better

[image: large.IMG_20240317_103447.jpg.1ee8ed09270868644eb1da76840efd94.jpg]

Now brake pads are angeled good

[image: large.IMG_20240317_103621.jpg.787644c1e1cf3674f0e7dcab8b80d936.jpg]

Also got the stripped tread for the plate that hold the pins fixed

[image: large.IMG_20240317_102647.jpg.175c76c6a98462b11c5a16bab86d642c.jpg]

Now I just need to find the plate I should have, it order a new one.....

I have done that myself on my 800; tried to install the pads while the calliper was mounted to the disc and managed to catch the edge of the pad spring during installation. Made for a weird brake as the spring would push the pad off the disc so there was lots of travel until the brake was pumped up fully. I would just straighten the pad spring out.

Well finally remembered to buy some white wheel paint (in spray can), so orginal the rear wheel is white again, not that pretty but will do for one season

[image: large.IMG_20240330_161632.jpg.a68a9bfd4922e58d3983f3cedd62e1d3.jpg]

Then could not resist this CBR600F front as got it for price of wheel

[image: large.IMG_20240331_074525.jpg.008d35ca48fa9483c3dde19f2e460757.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240331_074152.jpg.aef025b982da929203beb5666e7f1009.jpg]

Came whit brake disc's but no calliper's, tire is rubbish (well used 020 Bridgestone dot 09) and spring adjuster is broken in other leg's cap, but otherwise solid.

Interesting is that the triples offset is same as on 1990 CBR 1000F, easy to find out as I have the parts

[image: large.IMG_20240331_082604.jpg.ce4fb3b08f4b1114245a6ba5a66bb069.jpg]

Here 1000 on top of the 600s.

So as the 1000 is a bus compared to the 600 the sharper angel as lower profile tire make the 600 dance sharper.

A other difference is the 1000 lower triples has the longer steering axle that the RC24 use if I'm correct. 

[image: large.IMG_20240331_082725.jpg.857d7c97a74436db9bba862e0cbdae5f.jpg]

So even I'm in for keeping the 16" wheel for now, might do a fork upgrade in a future...

The painted wheel looks awesome keny! I would love to put my wheels back to white, but I don't do very well with a spray can. I looks like using paint stripper is the way to go. Nice job!

Captain 80s, 3/17/2024 at 5:17 PM

The width of the triples is the same as the CBR, but the offset is different (CBR is less) resulting in different trail numbers, everything else being the same.

They share the same width and offset as 90-97 VFRs and 90-96 CBR1000F.

At the time I thought I needed the 88/89 upper triple to match the lower, but I could have used something a little nicer looking from the later VFR.  I don't run an ignition switch on this bike, so I wasn't concerned with mounting or steering lock pin engagement.

Thanks for this information, for some reason I did miss you post.

When you say you could have used a later VFR upper triple you referring to a 5th gen? Interesting if it has same offset.

How much is the offsets difference between the 88-89 VFR triple to the cbr600/1000/vfr750 90-> ?

8 hours ago, keny

Thanks for this information, for some reason I did miss you post.

When you say you could have used a later VFR upper triple you referring to a 5th gen? Interesting if it has same offset.

How much is the offsets difference between the 88-89 VFR triple to the cbr600/1000/vfr750 90-> ?

The 88/89 VFR shares the same width / offset as the 90 - 97 VFR and the 90 - 96 CBR1000.

The 91 - 98 CBR600 is different.  Same width, less offset.

16 hours ago, Captain 80s

The 88/89 VFR shares the same width / offset as the 90 - 97 VFR and the 90 - 96 CBR1000.

The 91 - 98 CBR600 is different.  Same width, less offset.

Hmmm

Looks to me the cbr600F2 as 1990 cbr1000f has same offset, as in picture below the 1000 upper triple on the 600, both on the fork tubes

[image: large.IMG_20240331_082604.jpg.ce4fb3b08f4b1114245a6ba5a66bb069.jpg]

Oops you're right.  Got mixed up.  Just confirmed here too.  90 - 97 VFR then.

5 hours ago, Captain 80s

Oops you're right.  Got mixed up.  Just confirmed here too.  90 - 97 VFR then.

No problem, accidents happen

A thing that has got my interest is that a Honda model that has 41mm forks, use basically a cbr600F2 front wheel ( same axle spacer as design as same wheel axle) and has rake trail figures 26° 91mm, that whit a 120/70-17 front tire (compare to the F2 CBR  25° 94mm whit a 120/60-17 tire), so it's offset must be even greater than the 88-89 VFR750.  It's the 91-01 Honda CB750 F2 Seven Fifty RC42 (Europe, Japan market bike). It also use the bigger 296mm brake rotors as brake calipers as the CBR1000F 89 (SC24)->(before linked brakes)..

It however use a normal handlebar not clipons. But could live whit that. I would just need the fork lowers as both triple trees I think..... I need to do some more investigation to confirm this......

Other things, rear wheel as brake is back on bike

[image: large.IMG_20240401_115220.jpg.446beade4af52567ce8e0cdc1ec0991d.jpg]

😊

There are some nice, in a way, tail sections awable from German company Pferrer

[image: large.Screenshot_20240404-081730.jpg.26bf9e12eb473cd4d039da1bfdfe3fe4.jpg]

As Ricambi Weiss

[image: large.Screenshot_20240405-082848.jpg.a0e34443d64523b0fe3b683cb4214a3e.jpg]

The later cheaper. I do however like the stock design as well and know Airtech Streamlining makes a OEM style one that what I know use the orginal seat also that is nice, as more comfortable.

Dreaming a bit here....

Well as you dream something uninspected happen. Found this mint tail section for reasonable money!

[image: large.Screenshot_20240405-173007.jpg.4846b364c94f53fb71d05e35bfbe1cda.jpg]

So orginal tail will stay 😁

That's so awesome keny! 

The tail section arrived today, indeed as nice as in the picture in the add

Here next to the old one

[image: large.IMG_20240411_172900.jpg.0fa736e85ad682d319a87262de5c4412.jpg]

No cracks found on it, amazing!

There is a slight difference between it, it's from a 89 bike, and the 86 one, a cut for the passenger cover are not there, guess the 88-89 cover is missing this slot?

[image: large.IMG_20240411_172906.jpg.803fefc3d778213b325a1431d6e90647.jpg]

Well I guess I just take them of the passenger seat cover I have ....

Some progress on the RC24.

Started to take fork off, decided to take top fairing as well off to put the round clocks on even will run OEM fairing this season.

The fairing has some damage but don't know if I will do anything to it, it will be replaced whit the cbr900 anyway in a near future (next winter), seems there is a lot of small damage here as there also.

Other headlight faster is broken 

[image: large.IMG_20240421_095053.jpg.723e67f253abe4bdf7bc48a5388b8efa.jpg]

As the oil cooler other attachment cracked as headlight fasteners bent

[image: large.IMG_20240421_095224.jpg.ad09aafb5288a63c8166003577588e44.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240421_095032.jpg.c353e6610f1113b2c43fdb27f825471b.jpg]

The headlight holders can easily be bent back nut the oil cooler faster needs a weld.

Did strip the front brake

[image: large.IMG_20240421_095009.jpg.a6500d12fbd1ad8a468a59478c81b040.jpg]

I have the rebuild kit for the calipers. Also thinking I might take the long brake lines from the FJ for the VFR to keep it more simply whit just 2 brake lines.

Fork legs off so next is to change the seals in them

[image: large.IMG_20240421_095018.jpg.581fd717a0d72d1c4c8827fe5937bd11.jpg]

Ah, one thing, found a nicer chain guard, it also have the metal inserts so you don't tight the plastic to much so it cracks. 

[image: large.IMG_20240421_071023.jpg.61ced6ea1d82a4a08565b2f5b26afe62.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240421_071141.jpg.251aedef76ce58253f9a4687aeb9ad50.jpg]

It's from a 88-89 but 100% alike the 86, the sticker has wrong size tires thro, oh well, will be other size on bike anyway 

Opened up the orginal forks today, 

Should have had a overhaul a few years back, I would say many years back.....

Oil just black as a night 

[image: large.IMG_20240427_081536.jpg.9218b076813e05e95904766b3c196b5d.jpg]

And fork seals far from fresh looking 

[image: large.IMG_20240427_081520.jpg.c231cca0a679bb81c097980071cb7006.jpg]

The fork caps are sure billet made, but finnish is lacking 

[image: large.IMG_20240427_081453.jpg.449cb43c50323b7a1b1710d403bbe868.jpg]

Sadly the bush sliders are past there best....

[image: large.IMG_20240427_081504.jpg.16184a25e17735ae8c9584d033685cbd.jpg]

So something again to order.....

90's CB500 should have same parts so should not be to hard to find.

A quick search do offer them as package whit seals that I already have thro

I've never seen fork oil that dark in anything!

I think, this is maple syrup,  not fork oil!

The front wheel is painted as tire mounted 

[image: large.IMG_20240501_100910.jpg.be834c3ed140a0ec2e0ec9f127f9c43f.jpg]

And bushes for the fork is on the way 

Awesome Dude, it looks good! 

If I could operate a spray can, I would go back to white.

Nice keny.

keny, 4/21/2024 at 3:34 AM

Other headlight faster is broken 

keny, I don't think my US model came with the nuts installed on those posts from the factory. I never used the nuts on those two spots regardless. 

I wonder if the oil leak at drain plug is because the drain plug surface is not smooth 

[image: large.IMG_20240505_183323.jpg.e39007675c48ceed3b8652ae1f1a9089.jpg]

🤔

Is the other side smooth? 

A new crush washer should be able to compensate for that, easy.

It did have a crush washer...    right?

Captain 80s, 5/6/2024 at 4:33 AM

A new crush washer should be able to compensate for that, easy.

It did have a crush washer...    right?

Yes I did, a cupper one, will try a aluminum one next

Here the crush washer(s) I had

[image: large.IMG_20240509_082458.jpg.a0e16c3189f1a12bb667fa911d53b586.jpg]

But looking at engine, the surface might net be 100% even?

[image: large.IMG_20240509_082507.jpg.7426d1926807406d805b67e465997195.jpg]

If so, why 🤔

Use a new, Honda style, aluminum washer.

I don't see anything that should be a problem.

Brake calipers are cleaned 

[image: large.IMG_20240511_173912.jpg.5865705d4618ec9c5e44492db4006b3f.jpg]

Ultrasonic cleaner is nice

Gör the fork slide brushes yesterday 

[image: large.IMG_20240518_090345.jpg.b69f9c201ac33cf28520a60b6b863f4d.jpg]

But want to do something to these before putting together it

[image: large.IMG_20240518_090309.jpg.92fbd2f956da7c9e29c1d2230b4d9e56.jpg]

Billet made fork caps that lacking the final touches 

Quit a difference even some small fine polish still needed 

[image: large.IMG_20240520_171956.jpg.af4fd56593c17aea61c400f05365ac80.jpg]

Way better 

Well the anti drive was messed on the leg that was on my bike so ordered a leg lower from a breaker.

There are some differences for sure, mostly the fork clamp bolt design, the one from bike has thro bolts

[image: large.IMG_20240529_185732.jpg.2b41d58d645a5dcd127b1704368b60e6.jpg]

Same as a 86 brochure picture

[image: large.Screenshot_20240528-211630__01.jpg.3b6ce37fd6f1128c4e6b15e57dff98d5.jpg]

The one I got has treads in the lower and just bolts

[image: large.IMG_20240529_185711.jpg.1d7f94d7db84b80cac72dbd6d99a6806.jpg]

But guess it works as good.

From a other brochure picture there is also a different system, but guess it's pre production bikes

[image: large.Screenshot_20240528-211539__01.jpg.7736b788104d1e9473cebbec261fde64.jpg]

[image: large.Screenshot_20240528-211539.jpg.93c0bc11094e3b03e5a9e1bcc3ef1686.jpg]

At least what I think 

I think I would prefer the nut/bolt = steel/steel securement and no steel/aluminum threads. mho

Just throwing this out there...

Are you sure you got a 37mm lower fork tube and not the 88/89 41mm?

Captain 80s, 5/30/2024 at 3:42 PM

Just throwing this out there...

Are you sure you got a 37mm lower fork tube and not the 88/89 41mm?

^This. 

That design of tube is 100% the way the clamp bolts are arranged on the later bikes. [image: image.thumb.jpeg.b33035d0d9f6c119716817b3cb465fc8.jpeg]

I've lost count of how many breakers treat list their parts as fitting 86-89. They're so different and while some parts fit they're not the same. 

Even when they've specifically listed it as my year of bike I've ended up with the wrong part (last one was a set of bars). 

I actually think they sourced the 1987/88 CBR1000F forks for the 88/89 VFRs.   They look identical (and are both 41mm damping rod forks), use the same size rotors and they have the lower unused mount for the big aero CBR front fender.

[image: s-l1600.thumb.webp.ec77d5cd9ec014c3e7a52095fdb8d4e5.webp]

EDIT:  Yep.  Just confirmed it with parts numbers.  The lowers sliders are the same part number.  Chrome tubes are not, probably a different length

Captain 80s, 5/30/2024 at 5:42 PM

Just throwing this out there...

Are you sure you got a 37mm lower fork tube and not the 88/89 41mm?

Nope, the one I got is for a 37mm, part number ML7-691 tells it's from a 1987 European market bike.

Despite difference in outer casting, decided to go whit the led lower I bought, left in picture below 

[image: large.IMG_20240601_100611.jpg.e76ddd6b03d1cf8f0b5241110fa8792d.jpg]

The orginal has smoother surface under paint 

Well as you have the lower (inner) slide bushes side by side the old sure totally shoot 

[image: large.IMG_20240602_081014.jpg.48c6f5d2406ed3780a749f66d866840b.jpg]

The upper (outer) bushes only other was really worn, well as I had the new ones I sure did put them in.

The bolts for the leg lowers, the one I bought came whit the OEM bolts, the orginal on bike was not orginal, but have to do, sham as I really like the design of the bolt head on the OEM bolts.

[image: large.IMG_20240602_093657.jpg.96a4e7e8893cd2f1d45c70ffe6f99ed7.jpg]

A other thin is also the orginal is for 12mm socket where the aftermarket/ universal bolt use a 13mm

So finally after some time the fork legs are together and bike standing on the front wheel 

[image: large.IMG_20240602_095946.jpg.a5ca6b5d48e8ce85531ef6125ed5a38c.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240602_095931.jpg.55e6cc90c83dadc0174c75ba77d00a72.jpg]

So next front brake calipers together whit new seal kit, then I need to take the carbs off to change the flower bowl O rings and see if other surprise's are found....

And by the way, a aluminum washer sorted the oil leak at the drain plug

[image: large.IMG_20240602_100001.jpg.87b344b79be71d6ba105694e50ef7a65.jpg]

A other thing to sort if I don't use the old dash whit orginal fairing, of course, is to modify to attach the round clocks 

Captain 80s, 5/31/2024 at 9:02 PM

I actually think they sourced the 1987/88 CBR1000F forks for the 88/89 VFRs.   They look identical (and are both 41mm damping rod forks), use the same size rotors and they have the lower unused mount for the big aero CBR front fender.

[image: s-l1600.thumb.webp.ec77d5cd9ec014c3e7a52095fdb8d4e5.webp]

EDIT:  Yep.  Just confirmed it with parts numbers.  The lowers sliders are the same part number.  Chrome tubes are not, probably a different length

I'm sure you know this @Captain 80s but for others sake. The middle part of the part number is the PCN or "Product Code Number". This is the unique code that refers to the bike the part was originally designed for. In the case of the lowers, the right one is 51421-MM5-003 so as you correctly deduced that part carries the PCN "MM5" which refers to the "CBR1000FH-J (Hurricane) 1000" (SC21). The stanchions carry a ML7 PCN which means they originated with the VFR750F. There is a good list of PCNs here https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPCNs.htm

Also if anyone is really curious, the initial part of the part number refers to the type of part, the last part refers to the revision. 

Finally, you will often see parts superseded for improved versions in new models, looking for example at the 88 fork 'fiche the upper guide bush originally was a "MB4" ( VF1100 / V65 Magna) part but has been updated and replaced by the later "KCR" (VT250CR) part. 

keny, 6/2/2024 at 8:48 AM

The bolts for the leg lowers, the one I bought came whit the OEM bolts, the original on bike was not original, but have to do, sham as I really like the design of the bolt head on the OEM bolts.

[image: large.IMG_20240602_093657.jpg.96a4e7e8893cd2f1d45c70ffe6f99ed7.jpg]

A other thin is also the original is for 12mm socket where the aftermarket/ universal bolt use a 13mm

I'm not a fan of using A2 stainless bolts for anything other than "cosmetic" purposes, ie never in critical places. They're straight up not as "strong" as a 8.8 (roughly 2/3rd of the yield strength) and more worryingly you can't be sure what grade the originals are either, they may not "merely" be an 8.8.  

When I run into this situation I use OEM bolts or properly suitable replacements. It's not exactly clear which bolt it is but as far as I can tell all of the bolts are still available new from Honda and for the sake of a few £/$ personally I'd be buying new ones.

Some work processes.

First I did rebuild the CBR1000F clutch master cylinder, as I plan to use the clutch as Brake master cylinder on the RC24, 

Clutch is same size, 14mm, brake is also 14mm vs VFR 16mm, but from 88 on the VFR use a 13mm one. The smaller piston give a little longer pull but also more feel in the brake level.

Well there was same kind of mustard like stuff in the M/C as I opened it like in my ZR7S brake M/C

[image: large.IMG_20240609_075336.jpg.84c073eb62b23740814658281268fa67.jpg]

Other than cleaning all ait was a straight forward jobb 

[image: large.IMG_20240609_081755.jpg.d2f21ce123bfec7960aa813b6c081280.jpg]

Next up to put brake calipers together 

[image: large.IMG_20240609_084454.jpg.8e5dfffb862da29855d20b571f79d023.jpg]

Sadly I noticed that the cheap rebuild kit had a catch, the rubbers for the sliding pins are missing 🤔

[image: large.IMG_20240609_084459.jpg.c665806ee850e5881918dba5a5086e7d.jpg]

So they are now ordered as the wear plates for the brake pads. So a wait needed before I can mount the front brake 

Fastdruid, 6/3/2024 at 3:46 PM

I'm not a fan of using A2 stainless bolts for anything other than "cosmetic" purposes, ie never in critical places. They're straight up not as "strong" as a 8.8 (roughly 2/3rd of the yield strength) and more worryingly you can't be sure what grade the originals are either, they may not "merely" be an 8.8.  

When I run into this situation I use OEM bolts or properly suitable replacements. It's not exactly clear which bolt it is but as far as I can tell all of the bolts are still available new from Honda and for the sake of a few £/$ personally I'd be buying new ones.

The non OEM bolts there are not stainless, just zinked.

Added washer's, worked ok.

14 hours ago, keny

The non OEM bolts there are not stainless, just zinked.

Added washer's, worked ok.

The picture was of an A2-70. That's stainless not zinc!

6 hours ago, Fastdruid

The picture was of an A2-70. That's stainless not zinc!

Ok, I thought they where zinked ones.... Didn't look at the marks on the bolts as stainless usually just used for boat's here.

Guess former owner had put stainless bolts then as I sure don't have stainless bolts around.

So tank off to dig the crabs off.

Air filter was nice looking 

[image: large.IMG_20240612_100242.jpg.70e1b72faf7f3d95f49e43b777e8b012.jpg]

But can't figure out why attach a aluminum bit to the fuel line from pump to carb 🤔

[image: large.IMG_20240612_095446.jpg.58e57d7866b14cd104c140f148e6354f.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240612_095440.jpg.e29e0dfbf264325e36a2da31e94dd588.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240612_095453.jpg.797bf8355cb1b200319231bad030b5ba.jpg]

As heat shield only I can think of, but as it's attached to the fuel line the aluminium will only warm the fuel line I think 

Very bizarre. It looks like it's kind of trying to keep the fuel line off the head but why I don't know. I can only assume it was an attempt to fix a perceived problem. 

Hmmm, no heatshield on the back of the engine between the frame and head (I initially thought it was "missing" but looking at the fiche and appears the 86 didn't have one, or at least isn't listed). 

I wonder if there was an excess of heat there and that was an attempt to fix it, ultimately if the heat is coming from the exhaust there it's going to be pretty pointless though. 

Mine here for context. 

[image: image.jpeg]

3 hours ago, Fastdruid

Hmmm, no heatshield on the back of the engine between the frame and head (I initially thought it was "missing" but looking at the fiche and appears the 86 didn't have one, or at least isn't listed). 

There is absolutely a heat shield on an 86.  It is shown with the frame.  It helps protect the shock.  #12

GUARD, RR. CUSHION HEAT

50175-ML7-000

7 hours ago, Fastdruid

Very bizarre. It looks like it's kind of trying to keep the fuel line off the head but why I don't know. I can only assume it was an attempt to fix a perceived problem. 

Only thing I can think of is that when the pickup coil problem started someone put it there to eliminate the fuel line didn't run to warm to get running issue 🤔 🤷

19 hours ago, Captain 80s

There is absolutely a heat shield on an 86.  It is shown with the frame.  It helps protect the shock.  #12

GUARD, RR. CUSHION HEAT

50175-ML7-000

Different heat shield. That's the shock heat shield (#13 on the diagram below). I'm referring to #15 (50177-ML7-920 "GUARD, RR. HEAD HEAT")

[image: image.png.4b753632c8c4a4548e1265819cb4d20c.png]

Shown on the '86 diagram because they update the diagrams for the older models based off the newer ones... but not listed in the parts list. 

[image: image.thumb.png.22de0c76270fae38a0ee62d363c228af.png]

And to make it clearer, here is my photo again with it highlighted. [image: image.thumb.png.a53bc1acf97088663084b88ce11b5eda.png]

Oh....   sorry.   Yeah no heat shield of that type on the 86/87.

Well carbs off, intake rubbers hard as a rock, new ones ordered so just a wait for them also. Well better get into the carbs during that

[image: large.IMG_20240615_074409.jpg.e9bc511ac89900a20a5035f3784da142.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240615_074441.jpg.8f6d6252e8535a4c3d23d308a581d652.jpg]

And for that heat shield, non on my 86 ither

[image: large.IMG_20240615_075409.jpg.de64b76bd03c0e7c93bfb5ffab054298.jpg]

But I wonder if my former low vin 86 had one, it had some other other bits I has not seen on other RC24's, like small heat guards on the silencers/mufflers behind passenger fotpegs 

Well finally time to open this box

[image: large.IMG_20240707_080748.jpg.b696db1a3494341b34d956b26ee3f11a.jpg]

Decided to start whit the brakes 

[image: large.IMG_20240707_082000.jpg.65ac29c20cd5ee83de334f2bb1383d12.jpg]

The parts I needed 

[image: large.IMG_20240707_100445.jpg.17b027dc0fa659f6217d3b5481cdd89b.jpg]

Then calipers mounted, brake lines in place.

Decided to put the M/C from the CBR1000F to have a matching pair as  the clutch M/C level had lot's of play and the CBR one was rebuild not long ago.

[image: large.IMG_20240707_100419.jpg.d79ada6e934cf7aa1930ada4723a6051.jpg]

There is a issue however, the clutch side fits fine but the brake side reservoar touch the bar so wouldn't not angel straight against bar. So if I keep this need to grind some material from M/C or bar.

The piston size is also slightly different, OEM is ⅝ ~16mm, CBR is 14mm. Should also have a 3rd gen VFR M/C hanging around that needs rebuild as level but the level from the OEM M/C should fit, it's ½" so 13mm through.

I recall the level of the pull on my 87 RC24 had a short pull but needed quit high pull force even all was rebuild. So a smaller M/C should give slightly longer pull but less force needed whit better feeling. 

Some progress.

Valve's are adjusted 

New spark plugs in

[image: large.IMG_20240714_065401.jpg.1f562f7d56c05835108b6d28d4ad3496.jpg]

Also the drain holes are now open.

Cylinder #2 spark plug cap is changed to a other good one as it didn't hold in place. The corroded spark plug is from that cylinder.

[image: large.IMG_20240714_073748.jpg.a208f501e4f4721ba10b88aa47937b76.jpg]

The new carb rubbers are in, carbs back on bike 

[image: large.IMG_20240714_090514.jpg.ab86c9d8770b75a7b159a3ecc1e973d7.jpg]

Rear turn signals, the front ones that is moved back has to short wires 

[image: large.IMG_20240714_090520.jpg.c135e829f1ac62d9d2f57d6a26818b28.jpg]

So lengthed them bu cutting and putting in a new wire in between to still use same connection plugs. Soldier the new connections

[image: large.IMG_20240714_094043.jpg.e2eeba4d8a8470347b04dc24e3731fa3.jpg]

Then the tail section on, wish rest of fairings would be in as nice condition 

[image: large.IMG_20240714_101526.jpg.819c9bef0ce8e59e92208247b603cad4.jpg]

So next to put coolant in engine tank in place and need to get some fresh fuel and then see if it starts 

Well, carbs off again......

[image: large.IMG_20240727_081041.jpg.69862046fdd5060b7c2e124fa8f4e40b.jpg]

Last weekend I (after some electric issues) had it running outside my house (fortunately) as after a while carbs flooded heavy! It just poured fuel from the carbs. 😞

So I just pushed it back into the garage...

This morning decided to pull carbs off one more time. I can't get it what's wrong. 

[image: large.IMG_20240727_081100.jpg.0736c6c269399df13ce860ec4d2c5cca.jpg]

I suspect a fuel line could have come lose but no, as you blow in the fuel line there is a pressure against so it indicates the float needles seal, as if you turn the carbs around let some fuel out then your blow comes out in a breather pipe. Fill the carbs whit a small canister (for sync used whit out OEM tank)

[image: large.IMG_20240727_082258.jpg.692e2ae54b9acebfe7da40b02ea13614.jpg]

and your blow in the fuel line has pressure against, no leaks. But letting it stand whit fuel in the other cross feed pipe between carbs seems to leak....

[image: large.IMG_20240727_084542.jpg.b55ac0a08a89352ada1fd549ca2ccda4.jpg]

So carbs apart one more time 

A Blessing in disguise Keny, the 30 year old plastic fuel tubes can be replaced with aluminum. I put alum. tubes on my 86 but I had a bad interference problem at the very same spot you have pictured above. So be careful there, double check clearance there when assembled. I fixed the problem with my set of tubes with a half round file and some good music.

[image: image.thumb.jpeg.6cd4f159f2a70e0cbb0dc43090180ad4.jpeg]Have fun!

keny, 7/7/2024 at 10:02 AM

Well finally time to open this box

[image: large.IMG_20240707_080748.jpg.b696db1a3494341b34d956b26ee3f11a.jpg]

Decided to start whit the brakes 

[image: large.IMG_20240707_082000.jpg.65ac29c20cd5ee83de334f2bb1383d12.jpg]

The parts I needed 

[image: large.IMG_20240707_100445.jpg.17b027dc0fa659f6217d3b5481cdd89b.jpg]

Then calipers mounted, brake lines in place.

Decided to put the M/C from the CBR1000F to have a matching pair as  the clutch M/C level had lot's of play and the CBR one was rebuild not long ago.

[image: large.IMG_20240707_100419.jpg.d79ada6e934cf7aa1930ada4723a6051.jpg]

There is a issue however, the clutch side fits fine but the brake side reservoar touch the bar so wouldn't not angel straight against bar. So if I keep this need to grind some material from M/C or bar.

The piston size is also slightly different, OEM is ⅝ ~16mm, CBR is 14mm. Should also have a 3rd gen VFR M/C hanging around that needs rebuild as level but the level from the OEM M/C should fit, it's ½" so 13mm through.

I recall the level of the pull on my 87 RC24 had a short pull but needed quit high pull force even all was rebuild. So a smaller M/C should give slightly longer pull but less force needed whit better feeling. 

Generally, the less force, the worse "feel".  The main problem with a longer pull is that the handlebar is still in the same place...

Ciao,

JZH

Could not resist this runner RC24 for 900€

[image: large.IMG_20240805_182536.jpg.d784a5afb0857e10164ccb58f29ea1a2.jpg]

🙈😁😎

Had the Interceptor out from garage today for a few pictures 

[image: large.IMG_20240806_165819.jpg.900450a4fddbb6268c6ddbd2e4d982c5.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240806_165833.jpg.daacf59742a977841d361fdf3d98adbd.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240806_170220.jpg.a5f64529a967a496677c5b4c1569915d.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240806_170248.jpg.bd682d5943fde6477e66b50f5e7e2ae5.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240806_170240.jpg.e993f162b8aa103a88fa406e31e5e08c.jpg]

It's a bit nicer in picture than for real, but still nice.

Former former owner has 2022 rebuilt the fork whit new seals as bushes, changed the carb manifold rubbers as carbs gaskets as pipes between whit O-rings, valve cover gaskets, front brake lines (to brained) as air filter, milage then 72k kms, former owner bought it June 15th, then it had 73500kms on Odo, as I bought it August 5th the milage is 77k kms. Former owner has changed rear tire to a 0224 manufactured Bridgestone BT46, front is a Pirelli Sport Demon from 2012, as changed battery as new sparkplugs (indium). He has also bought a central stand from a breaker but removed the side stand as he though the bike leaned over to much....

He has also addad the race stickers that some are cool but some not I think.

Well the former former owners ad also told the fairing lowers has been repainted and claims it got OEM stickers, might be but they are 700 version stickers, oh well, good enough for me.

Anyway got some extras along, a grab handel for passenger as a Five Stars (I think) top box rack.

[image: large.IMG_20240805_202514.jpg.4f999cbee51a53d09ccdf000b36c8834.jpg]

The reason for the high lean whit side stand might have to do whit that the rear shock is not orginal but aftermarket, don't know who's thro

[image: large.IMG_20240806_165726.jpg.c63408cc4e527f69343f800bcbd2d728.jpg]

But to me it's a big bonus!

I'm happy so far. I want to inspect it thro before riding and needs a good cleaning, and I have a side stand ordered from a breaker.

Looks like it is in decent condition under the dirt and the stickers! I would suggest taking a close look at the tailpiece plastics where the front edge of the taillight sits as they are very prone to cracking/breaking there. Some preventative fibreglass reinforcement might avoid that.

Some stickers off 

[image: large.IMG_20240813_073349.jpg.eb44ba4681e20eda930d21cd61d0736c.jpg]

And it has a side stand again 

Got this manual for just postage 

[image: large.IMG_20240813_165617.jpg.850dc32fb6dd684f7828a3bef7b0d3ce.jpg]

Well finally got time (after other projects done) to go through the VFR Interceptor I bought, basically a runner but I always like to see thro that things are up to how I like them.

Well I know the valve cover gaskets are changed a few years back but it seems the rear one is still leaking slightly!

[image: large.IMG_20240818_073454.jpg.ad55c576e2157449b3b59ef727f6ba2f.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240818_073447.jpg.190dd0824efcee0202c8abcae6de5767.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240818_075422.jpg.2d1bedae679992c6bab16136d63ef8fc.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240818_075411.jpg.06e0a949e02edd1c04e62f0206ae394a.jpg]

There is oil coming from the rear head down between the V and going down so the inside of fairing is wet of oil. Not a alarming amount but sure should be non!

Former owner had also put 2 switches on the left inner panel

[image: large.IMG_20240818_085638.jpg.d251cced9256ae6b06b8ed8331ff7ec8.jpg]

One for direct radiator fan operator, other as a light switch.

Sad in that way as these panels are more or less non existing anymore and different from the version that has square clocks. Empty holes in a panel is not nice.

The one for fan is made by twisting a wire around the wire from the termo switch at radiator thro the switch and to other bolt of ignition coil. Did take it away.

The US version don't have a light switch like the European does. Probably the reason former owner had made a switch for it, but for a man that told me he knows electric, the job had low quality but fortunely not messing whit orginal wires like the fan, he had simply taken the light fuse out, and taken wires there thro the switch whit out a fuse! So it was simply to plug out the wires and put in the fuse back.

I must say the repair of the lower side fairings are poor, the left turn signal bracket is bent, but instead of straighten it back the turn signal shaft has been bent (and destroyed), oh man......

[image: large.IMG_20240818_160851.jpg.9b7c9588c5f5caccd38f1a6771ae387e.jpg]

And one more thing, the guy I bought it from told me he had modified the battery holder to take a slightly bigger battery that is more common as far cheaper, well now in closer inspection it's done at rear end that means the battery sticks out in the rear fender, not sure that good battery gets the rear wheels spray on it...

[image: large.IMG_20240818_161114.jpg.99a62a712dbe62f9cab2ec40be82b2b7.jpg]

So things to sort while waiting for a fresh front tire.

Not much to choose from anymore, the Dunlop I ordered earlier this year is not awable anymore, Metzler has stopped making the Roadtec01 so only the Pirelli Sport Demon as Bridgestone BT46 to choose from, as a fresh BT46 rear, the BT46 was my choice 

Today it came

[image: large.IMG_20240819_160156.jpg.4b078c31023e3ff478c6302aed02ef5f.jpg]

The new front tire, fresh as made week 11 2024 😎

And it's on the rim

[image: large.IMG_20240821_072847.jpg.52e458a1f5869cc1a458e6bc4e07a9e6.jpg]

Next to get the bike to work for a good wash, then check the rear valve cover gasket as check the oil pump chain as it sounds it make noise as you rise the rpm

Curious to hear how you like the BT46. Front only or a set going on? 

5 hours ago, bmart

Curious to hear how you like the BT46. Front only or a set going on? 

Former owner had put on a BT46 rear that has about 2500km on it, it's also fresh production (made 2024)

I have tried the BT45 before (on my former RC24 87 model) and liked it so hopefully this even better 

I was very happy with the BT45's on mine so doubtless the BT46 would be a good choice if you're sticking with std wheels.  Although I've now gone with wider wheels and radials. 

When I was contemplating them they didn't have the correct speed ratings available so I think *all* BT46's are likely to be pretty new. 

The Interceptor a bit cleaner

[image: large.IMG_20240824_092341.jpg.c4b9f61c3805c5a3f086e4d515a0eaee.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240824_092701.jpg.7b973248ed6797dd6f73b7e4facfb636.jpg]

But wheels still need a lot of cleaning.

The rear shock seems to be a Bitubo

[image: large.IMG_20240824_092359.jpg.6e2420e657017e74ff5663a90575cafe.jpg]

Not sure of length, but as this bike is issued in 1988 even a 1986 model, and the tail seems higher than stock, can be it's a longer one for a actual 1988?

Have to try to take measurements 

A thing I don't like whit most people in the country I live whit is that if something is broken,  they fix it whit what they have around, and so it's done whit tail faster under seat

[image: large.IMG_20240824_103544.jpg.fed41088906a27ccb8ff22168d7ad15f.jpg]

So tail pice bolted firm to the sub frame whit rubber between plastic as washer 

Not so good as not isolated from subframe. 

Something needs to be done....perfectly OEM rubbers as spacers...

Bike's looking nice Keny! 

Try to go stock hardware if posable.

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr700f-interceptor-1986-g-usa-california_model1121/collar-rrcowl-mo_77217ml7000/

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr700f-interceptor-1986-g-usa-california_model1121/rubber-rrcowl-mo_77218ml7000/

Here's how I help secure my busted up tail section. 

[image: Torque-1053.thumb.jpg.a1072fa26d49f5f632e8205482fcd86e.jpg][image: Torque-1051.thumb.jpg.22bc3fabe3c14ddafe0c2c5effa6778c.jpg][image: Torque-1050.thumb.jpg.16946b109688ad0f7eaa0e4a2c6bb5c6.jpg][image: Torque-1049.thumb.jpg.f82bc15d5e352e3baeb6a54337cbcbb0.jpg]

I know it's crude but it's cheap and no-one will know.

Well the shock length is about 275mm, so in between the OEM 86 vs 87-89

The red ones carbs are back together 

[image: large.IMG_20240825_093400.jpg.f5b9c35786c5166b881923a6a8f1abcd.jpg]

So tomorrow on bike and we see if it starts again and don't leak hopefully.

I didn't buy new tubes to get O-rings, did just visit a shop that have a bigger stock and got slightly thicker ones, fingers crossed 🤞 it will work this time 

Bitubo do at least a 88-89 specific shock as well as at least one other (maybe two) for the 86/87.

I had one i bought for mine and I was very much not impressed but I'm not sure if it was just duff. It was very very cheap (old stock sell off on Ebay,  iirc was about £10 from M&P as no one else bid) and by the time I fitted it was way too late to return it. 

And you all know the troubles I had with my Bitubo also. I finally got it mostly sorted, but I'd steer clear. 

So no flags for Bitubo then 😬

Well as long the fluids stay in and working somewhat ok I'm happy.

bmart, didn't know you had bad luck whit one, and Fastdruid this can sure be a older version as the colors as spring adjuster rings don't look like today's offerings

Funny thing is I at some point asked the shock length for RC24 shocks from Bitubo (as could not found them anywhere) and recall it was 270mm for 86-87 and 278mm for 88-89 so 2mm shorter than OEM.

Am a bit frustrated here now, as I had the red one up running, but carb to cylinder #1 is still leaking badly 😞

[image: large.IMG_20240826_095405.jpg.6594f1e224e8e3a89293bbdf2c543836.jpg]

Well leak dried out in the picture, but I had the tank off fast after to spot leak places and the tubes between the carbs are holding tight, so leak coming from lower. Can't just figure what It can be.....

The float chamber drain bolt is tight, looks like the O-ring at float chamber is leaking even new and was at right spot as I had the float chambers off to secure the floats are moving smooth as the needle holding....

Well nothing else to do than the carbs out again..... But not today......

9 hours ago, keny

So no flags for Bitubo then 😬

Well as long the fluids stay in and working somewhat ok I'm happy.

bmart, didn't know you had bad luck whit one, and Fastdruid this can sure be a older version as the colors as spring adjuster rings don't look like today's offerings

Funny thing is I at some point asked the shock length for RC24 shocks from Bitubo (as could not found them anywhere) and recall it was 270mm for 86-87 and 278mm for 88-89 so 2mm shorter than OEM.

~270 for 86, ~280 for 87,  linkage piece changed on 87 to compensate.

5 hours ago, Captain 80s

~270 for 86, ~280 for 87,  linkage piece changed on 87 to compensate.

Yes I know that are the OEM lengths, the one I stated was what Bitubo clame they are selling.

Got it.  Wasn't clear to me. 

Carry on.

13 hours ago, keny

Am a bit frustrated here now, as I had the red one up running, but carb to cylinder #1 is still leaking badly 😞

[image: large.IMG_20240826_095405.jpg.6594f1e224e8e3a89293bbdf2c543836.jpg]

Well leak dried out in the picture, but I had the tank off fast after to spot leak places and the tubes between the carbs are holding tight, so leak coming from lower. Can't just figure what It can be.....

The float chamber drain bolt is tight, looks like the O-ring at float chamber is leaking even new and was at right spot as I had the float chambers off to secure the floats are moving smooth as the needle holding....

Well nothing else to do than the carbs out again..... But not today......

You need to set up an IV bottle arrangement and bench test the carbs to spot where your leak is coming from Keny. 

Well had the carbs apart, cleaned the float chamber seal areas really good, even didn't spot any dirt, check the O -ring that was good, and assemble again, and now it runs whiteout leaks!

Starter clutch slips at times through......

Well as it runs I make progress to get it out on the road for test ride.

Spotted some difference between the 86/87 RC24 as 88/89 RC24, the seat base at the lock tab as the hooks in the rear before lock tab

[image: large.IMG_20240827_185720__01.jpg.831d48f9bb11d8b3fd1d81ec836f0c0a.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240827_185324.jpg.06b3c877445ab5ae48a1177784d43627.jpg]

So can confirm a 88/89 RC24 seat will not fit a 86 whit out modifications 

So hooks from the 86 base and ginger out to remove plastic so the look tab lock

Then some polish that did a wonder!

[image: large.IMG_20240827_190522.jpg.e031be04ed0747972743e7416d909d87.jpg]

Front fairing still need some adjustments and mounting, yes orginal look first, then modification after testing it runs good 

Getting closer, but still things to do, most time consuming is that the small painting on left lower fairing didn't sucsed, paint reacts on something so needs redone.

But right side is mounted as too fairing 

[image: large.IMG_20240828_105703.jpg.3035ef0f0d5836f46142846b87265926.jpg]

Some stickers even they will not be final and the fairings are a bit rough 

[image: large.IMG_20240828_105720.jpg.31cc1f43386ca2743bc0b0b8331771c9.jpg]

Did the fairing mount under tank from a bit M6 treaded shaft, a long nut at 2 normal 

[image: large.IMG_20240828_105713.jpg.4cdedd9af2475d2b12effb75dfa264ea.jpg]

Stickers, I'm a bit disappointed in the VFR stickers I bought from eBay, was fairly cheap through, but they have the wrong font, the letters leaning to much towards right, here compared to the OEM sticker on top of the RWB seat cowl

[image: large.IMG_20240828_083509.jpg.6cda07d98e7dff386aa8227a11722326.jpg]

Quit a difference I think, but these will do for these not so nice fairings.... 

xtremedecals.com have exactly what you’re looking for 

Paul is a really helpful guy and will advise you if there’s a query 

The 88-89 front turn signals made to fit the 86

[image: large.IMG_20240828_132752.jpg.16e0e157e268970298b0a5dc11769364.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240828_132800.jpg.bbf75d1618fc182a4015edc7f7f67257.jpg]

I really like the look of these

And it's complete 

[image: large.IMG_20240829_082755.jpg.419210a05029a9fc61f78d39e35538af.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240829_082808.jpg.dc28280ba049d2c7cfa8429a0807f9ee.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240829_084729.jpg.dc8b483d7bd5039f7b23b3d4e0d8921a.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240829_084946.jpg.22af9682ff687cca2cc5d765d5402444.jpg]

So next to buy a insurance and then out for a spin later today 

It's not neat a perfect bike, so a ugly duck, but far nice that the state I bought it in almost a year back.

Actually looking close to the bike in the 1988 brochure that made me like the RC24 so much, red, even that is a RC24/2 and this the first RC24

First ride is made, fun

[image: large.IMG_20240829_182929.jpg.9eddde9342fa5ce5d87ada575e9b7e9e.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240829_185122__01.jpg.b9f326a96aea6ff062a9d6696f7a2a49.jpg]

[image: large.IMG_20240829_182946.jpg.6b3206844552960e9c3b20eb52b89e02.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240829_190130.jpg.29c22211d0064b35c9c0d982e5fc2f2e.jpg]

So fun bike ! 

Had a nice bike along on the ride to, Friends RD350 YPVS, the "Race Dayly" bike 😅

Nice!   Good job!

A few pictures from today's ride, bike still running like a champ!

[image: large.IMG_20240830_150850.jpg.47f536a227194b64dfb3c815a197664e.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240830_150248.jpg.f34175e93153f85659d6b7502ccaffe0.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240830_135739.jpg.c039a521674f406811309222094debfa.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240830_141953.jpg.2cc36115643bfc19c8a21345b50ec90e.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240830_142021.jpg.4241b3d36446213e34a801408a80ba6e.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240830_134817.jpg.60d2d3bd113a04a58ed16b6f6a616e42.jpg]

I really like it.

Can't wait to also get the RWB out

"This thing pulls like a train!"

1 hour ago, Captain 80s

"This thing pulls like a train!"

That's a cool statement 😎

I assume you referring to one of my pictures, this one 😃

[image: large.IMG_20240830_150248.jpg.f34175e93153f85659d6b7502ccaffe0.jpg]

👍

One more thing 

This brochure back in 1989 as I visited yearly local motorcycle fair got me hooked on the RC24

[image: large.Screenshot_20240830-210928.jpg.95a1b182c5d81a0e08744f7d9d5bf07e.jpg][image: large.VFR750FJ-R157.jpg.b507dd2deb0612d4c6ae04283bfc3f88.jpg]

Actually what I now have is not much different...

[image: large.IMG_20240829_183105.jpg.44a65d197ac463ea816b927933f6b56d.jpg]

Even some is as a 86, but I actually prefer the 16/18 wheels, 3 part fairing compared to the 88/89 4 part one, but I like the flush front indicators better but them I have.

I also like the 88/89 subframe whit removable aluminum passenger fot peg hangers better. I like the 86/87 VFR sticker font better thro. I would not mind the bigger front brake rotors...the 88/89 engine pulls even more as a train in mid rpm...but still darn close to that what got me hooked to a RC24.....

I miss old brochures! I have TONS of them. 

(That's-a-lotta-red!)

45 minutes ago, bmart

(That's-a-lotta-red!)

bmart's favorite color!   Just look at his avatar!

1 hour ago, keny

One more thing 

This brochure back in 1989 as I visited yearly local motorcycle fair got me hooked on the RC24

You need to get yourself a red leather motorcycle jacket and a pair of red riding boots 😁

 https://www.etsy.com/listing/877731243/motorcycle-leather-suit-leather-suit

5 hours ago, bmart

 https://www.etsy.com/listing/877731243/motorcycle-leather-suit-leather-suit

So...  finally selling them.  It's a new era bmart...   proud of you.  Seafoam Green... to the future!!!

11 hours ago, V4 Rosso

You need to get yourself a red leather motorcycle jacket and a pair of red riding boots 😁

Haha 😅 and then for my woman to, have her grow long hair as put her on a diet 😁

It's amazing what a bit of paint can do

Before 

[image: large.IMG_20240831_081035.jpg.fda0ecd3e002fff98a6747881e7d460d.jpg]

After 

[image: large.IMG_20240831_085952.jpg.6b5b3f781bd1a3cbd672ab6796c421ac.jpg]

Other side 

[image: large.IMG_20240831_103059.jpg.be67c1cc9378452224c425ab7ba94cd5.jpg]

And a small Clock, that came on bike did wake up whit new batteries 

[image: large.IMG_20240831_103636.jpg.492b6446227c288d432dc096d25ea8d4.jpg]

After market stuff but Honda one

Made it a bit more practical for ride to work duty

[image: large.IMG_20240901_092754.jpg.085c6acc5a4350aeb67b27d7fda9f599.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240901_105659.jpg.e574463be5629722ce30895273912bff.jpg]

Perhaps a bit less sexy, but ok

I believe the rack is a Five Stars, had one for my 87 RC24 that was that make and looks the same 

FJ sighting!

3 hours ago, bmart

FJ sighting!

Yes, it waiting for a friend that has a Yamaha shop to come whit hos special tool as chims and adjust the valves....

I hav ea few of those tools, accumulated over the years...and tons of shims. 

A few pictures 

[image: large.IMG_20240902_161428__01.jpg.b4d76abafe80873e00b6d8ebb6d21012.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240902_161415.jpg.c6b3508d6e98bd8a3b01c62dfc59e93f.jpg]

And a small detail I made, I like it better 

[image: large.IMG_20240902_112632.jpg.69bfe3a3c441b74b4981f0c0c02d2367.jpg]

😎

Not good 

[image: large.IMG_20240918_112447.jpg.7271994178f455313fd0d676ecb173c2.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240918_112453.jpg.d84669100114ba643bed6076bbad63d8.jpg]

Tread depth is about ⅖ of the amount the screwdriver goes into the hole...

As I'm still waiting for the oil pump chain as sprockets for the other RC24 (they are estimated to be shipped late October by CMSNL) and ride season is close to a end, I will just change the rear wheels between the RC24's I think, a CBR F2 wheel is coming to the rear of this RC24 this winter anyway.

2 hours ago, keny

Not good 

[image: large.IMG_20240918_112447.jpg.7271994178f455313fd0d676ecb173c2.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240918_112453.jpg.d84669100114ba643bed6076bbad63d8.jpg]

Tread depth is about ⅖ of the amount the screwdriver goes into the hole...

As I'm still waiting for the oil pump chain as sprockets for the other RC24 (they are estimated to be shipped late October by CMSNL) and ride season is close to a end, I will just change the rear wheels between the RC24's I think, a CBR F2 wheel is coming to the rear of this RC24 this winter anyway.

I hate it when that happens.  Too many times for me to count.  Plug it!  

Plug it properly and run that sucker!

Well I could plug it, but as I have a complete wheel to change in, it's easier, that Pirelli Sport Demon is quite old to....

[image: large.IMG_20240918_180145.jpg.3775dea4e8579066c8a5cc8d3af022c2.jpg]

Let's see if less chicken strips tomorrow 😁

Old, worn??

[image: post-5787-0-02461900-1453131536.jpg.91eb5e29e86db2f10ebb00c3d4f46b1c.jpg]

:goofy:

Some for time of year really nice ride weather enjoyed this weekend 

[image: large.IMG_20240921_171951.jpg.bbac4d9a22d6ffe2c5ff7d69df9c5ca0.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240921_171820.jpg.96d77575ea8c427556782ae3801d7ae0.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240921_172001.jpg.48f1f7873a06d6e59102872fd1c7c7b5.jpg]

But soon cold air will strike 

Today had a nice ride whit the red RC24, a bit chilly, +11C, but sunny and roads mostly clear of dirt farmers had bring on the roads from fealds, thanks to 2½ days of heavy rain days before.

[image: large.IMG_20240929_124454.jpg.b15920038207f8dd1d394bbcb54c1f86.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240929_124509.jpg.13405070630871f0accdaac630417497.jpg]

Did visit my favorite cafe to as usual if open, not open year round, and now only on weekends 

[image: large.IMG_20240929_124759.jpg.e1b81b29bf8bbd240604ad048697cc77.jpg][image: large.IMG_20240929_125150.jpg.269c3db8ac49cac1932699c318763d84.jpg]

It's a colorful fall coming 

[image: large.IMG_20240929_130428.jpg.2ff4361b7975447a3e5d58853ac235c1.jpg]

Well, the RC24 has been resting now.

I can see I have some things to do to it during winter, aside the 17" rear wheel conversation as cbr900 front fairing.

I see that my repair of the tail section has not hold on other side

[image: large.IMG_20241016_212215.jpg.92ad447deb88d6731ed0e34a7fca56d2.jpg]

I don't know if the rack is reason to that? Have to look into it.

Well, poop.

Also...   I see a "Spaghetti Incident" post coming soon...

Captain 80s, 10/16/2024 at 9:44 PM

Well, poop.

Also...   I see a "Spaghetti Incident" post coming soon...

Well your damn right, but not in this topic...

How could you know 

keny, 10/16/2024 at 7:32 PM

Well, the RC24 has been resting now.

I can see I have some things to do to it during winter, aside the 17" rear wheel conversation as cbr900 front fairing.

I see that my repair of the tail section has not hold on other side

[image: large.IMG_20241016_212215.jpg.92ad447deb88d6731ed0e34a7fca56d2.jpg]

I don't know if the rack is reason to that? Have to look into it.

 Bit odd to break there. Normally it breaks on the bottom. I'd say maybe is rack related. 

I ended up bonding my tail light to the plastic so it became one item. I'm going to have a bit of a reinforcement session when I get a chance, fix the mounts (front ones are both cracked, rear where the grab rail fixed as well)) and bond some metal around so it won't break again (short of destroying the entire thing). 

Fastdruid, 10/22/2024 at 3:10 PM

 Bit odd to break there. Normally it breaks on the bottom. I'd say maybe is rack related 

Both sides had a crack at that place, did repair both sides whit plastic welding using a thin aluminum net melting it into plastic but this side didn't hold.

I agree that probably rack related, also the fastners of fairings has not the correct spacers as rubbers, some former owner has lost them.... Plans to make new spacers as a friend has a shop that makes small metal bits, so automaticaised as menual lathe's available...

A bit work on the RWB 86 for a chance 

Did take clutch cover off to check the oil pump chain that former owner claimed to be very loose.

Well first, the cap's head is round so needs harder treatment to get off as needs to be replaced 

[image: large.IMG_20241117_075638.jpg.09e8b46fa2bab27769d7b563f0944536.jpg]

Then the oil dip stick is missing the O ring 

[image: large.IMG_20241117_075649.jpg.ce25fe80e2fc7c4b848232d016145099.jpg]

And seems I need to make a special tool to get the clutch inner off

[image: large.IMG_20241117_104013.jpg.7d13709b744caace4b41e617856725a8.jpg]

Actually the oil pump chain doesn't seem that loose to me, they usually are a bit loose, but I will take the clutch off to check anyway. And for this clutch cover I have got a new gasket, good as in bits 

The oil pump chains are loose to begin with.  To the point everyone thinks there's a problem.  There isn't.

Clutch basket appears to be in good shape judging by the reflections across (what appear to be) minimal grooves in the outer basket fingers.

70 year Gilera old basket....

[image: 20241118_120108.thumb.jpg.9d6e453407795140bb225079fb4c494f.jpg]

But truth be told, it still funtioned...

Captain 80s, 11/17/2024 at 10:24 PM

Clutch basket appears to be in good shape judging by the reflections across (what appear to be) minimal grooves in the outer basket fingers.

Yes, they are not too bad

[image: large.IMG_20241123_073717.jpg.e8f114cf82d6bec5359e8ffd451f9eb0.jpg]

But the clutch springs has made deep groves!

[image: large.IMG_20241123_073724.jpg.0357a0f4c22ce76747049bb5d6c46c61.jpg]

Now I'm wondering if it's from them the snapping noice like something slipping is coming from as you release the clutch 🤔

To state the obvious, normal wear in there is normal, but you can break off the posts. I found my similar issue from an oil analysis in one of the track bikes. 

Normal wear:

[image: 20241022_153054.thumb.jpg.255614b83cc02ab2eac56576d5d25d56.jpg]

Less normal! lol

[image: 20191116_163013sm.thumb.jpg.737dadc8538722a531566980d090565a.jpg]

No progress for a while as working on a other 4 wheel project, first car for younger son

It has been awhile since you bought another bike Keny..... 

come on.... 

you need to do better (in 2025)!!!!!!!!!

:wheel:

Dutchy, 12/26/2024 at 11:08 PM

It has been awhile since you bought another bike Keny..... 

come on.... 

you need to do better (in 2025)!!!!!!!!!

:wheel:

😅 Frankly I don't need a nother bike, unless a few would go in trade.....or get some current sold first.....but it's a buyer's market where I live these days.....

But still busy whit car's, a project I'm building for my son as first car as a hobby car I got for myself.....

Really? You can't do that and not tell us what the car is and share pics! Mean, mean VFR rider!

7 hours ago, bmart

Really? You can't do that and not tell us what the car is and share pics! Mean, mean VFR rider!

Well if the crowd insist.....

[image: large.IMG_20241204_125458.jpg.bbba41657e8390cb3c7793602a34b8d3.jpg]

Got myself a 1990 Volkswagen Golf MK2, 1,8 petrol (not GTI)

And for son working on a tired MK3 Golf I got for free 

[image: large.IMG_20241214_080655.jpg.f1323983446688b55dcc6eaddd4ffca1.jpg]

Sins let out

Well as Dutchy's hope for a new bike did happen today (more of how in my other topic) I got confirmation on how to possibly get a combination of RC24/2 triple (lower) to work whit a cbr600F2 front wheel to work whit the odometer drive and 296mm discs, it's by using Honda CB SevenFifty F2 RC42 fork lowers.

Well yes, could measure as now got a RC42 in my garage.

Everyone that has a RC24 should know what I have made, the black is orginal 

[image: large.IMG_20250102_135008.jpg.619479929aa412debccc0b9ce4f00ed4.jpg]

So as I did some messurment on my, new to me, RC42 CB750F2, the sprocket to break disc spacing is unusual same

1986 RC24

[image: large.IMG_20250102_081907.jpg.529ed007b022a58b1ea5804b464ac0a8.jpg]

1995 CB750F2 RC42

[image: large.IMG_20250102_082002.jpg.234658faf3980fcdc48b72f4a0109ea1.jpg]

Have not messured distance from center of wheel to them yet through, and if it would be the same you would still need to convert the CB wheel to accept a 20mm axle as it has a 17mm one, but not impossible 

I tend to worry about him if no new bike appears for say 3 months....  :laugh:

The 1986 should have a white Honda sticker on the lower part of the screen 

[image: large.1000049118.png.4cae754455074a0fade03aa8a4da6f05.png]

Like in the brochure picture above 

I had some Honda sticker's left on the sheet I bought for the red RC24, one is close in size

[image: large.1000049119.jpg.e378d2aeb5ccfbe921b73eda7b1f725e.jpg]

Close enough I think 

Ta-da, one step closer

I really enjoy this motorcycle.

[image: large.1000049153.jpg.2ebe20b4bbe00d60f1bd58989d4df050.jpg][image: large.1000049164.jpg.113f52b2c4b858d3389b920dd3acc4ac.jpg][image: large.1000049163.jpg.ecaf80b83c86dd425433ebb6fbc36400.jpg][image: large.1000049150.jpg.b79ec867fdf15c4de15a48481d803a31.jpg][image: large.1000049156.jpg.85212fbddb43041ccdd0ef3cc9d10055.jpg][image: large.1000049155.jpg.8c3cb15133c69f0130a36ac381c77439.jpg]

And it's amazing how big a difference in price if you get a OEM wheel seal or a identical from a Automobile parts store

[image: large.1000049143.jpg.7f1d232fc153d904b15c009668853b9a.jpg][image: large.1000049131.png.bc3cfb680e434d061be69bea64324c3a.png]

It's actually the brake disc side seal even picture show the sprocket side, but yes €3,80 vs €16,94! That's a huge difference!

It's good I last year didn't ride on whit the wheel whit the Pirelli Sport demon after noticed the small cut in it!

[image: large.1000049409.jpg.a9a63e8d18bc4aea7c30fcfe39da84bf.jpg]

As it then felt deep and it sure was, a not sharp screwdriver and plop, hole through!

[image: large.1000049408.jpg.b034e619222fd1595b88afd842030711.jpg]

So tire off and in the trash.

Then as no tire on the painted wheel I had to patch up the wheel that is on the RWB RC24 

[image: large.1000049401.jpg.962755cbcdbc5277767e8b02516bc2fb.jpg]

As mounted a rear reflector as polish the tank as plastic 

[image: large.1000049400.jpg.592ca6ab5b381fd0ac757a4b5c98a552.jpg][image: large.1000049402.jpg.c305b2d0a6a8844dc7420228a759d9b2.jpg]

Reason, a classic inspection tomorrow afternoon!

Fingers 🤞 it goes well 

Well today was both a great as a slight sad day for my RWB RC24 

Well let's start whit the sad thing.

As I bought this bike it had an even ticking that I noticed but didn't sound to bad, as I adjusted the valves it became a bit more noicy, and now it gets more so at idle in especially, at higher rom you don't notice it and bike runs really great.

But this morning decided to take a peak under valve covers one more time even all cams looked fine during valve adjustment.

And yes, cylinder #3 exhaust cams are not good anymore sadly 

[image: large.1000049436.jpg.a98c81e9cd6a894ed9d95a89af4b00af.jpg]

Some pitting.

So need to change it.

Then the good thing.

[image: large.1000049454.jpg.357ca81c9e45db000b66edf13e1c3c73.jpg]

Yes, my RWB VFR passed the classic inspection!

[image: large.1000049455.jpg.776b86d03cf8d2ed00af0b4d4ecb5220.jpg][image: large.1000049456.jpg.eaa43aadab2282b07f9cd10da9219499.jpg]

So a chilling cola, (Pepsi actually) was in order to celebrate 🥳 

This is in Germany so shipping will be cheaper 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167327119150?_skw=rc24+exhaust+camshafr&itmmeta=01K0MC0S5YB6F8FR4CQN54SPJN&hash=item26f579372e:g:590AAeSw8bpnq3YV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eT80MyMBMj29JaIjkUUw5X32%2BmStTvqJT6USPWiOXF7HZje2WqUzIOZhz8gbJM2TPLa3kMZMFrfLQKNiS8mwdotEn7yPP6ymiwkauuI0If%2BP28jvsoxf1G0mLRYJfCxmWPVii%2FmxG%2Fi3ngWqO7zm7iNGyPFJtEX3rtVXAJt4KfyKmPCp5zNTerW8q8QrhWERr6z3SeEvBCxkHF32vChoXKwOoruAWU%2Bn0dOQGhdKMRZiSen%2BxytkaQgZXVjNgx2E8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6Tg4yFZg

1 hour ago, Thumbs

This is in Germany so shipping will be cheaper 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167327119150?_skw=rc24+exhaust+camshafr&itmmeta=01K0MC0S5YB6F8FR4CQN54SPJN&hash=item26f579372e:g:590AAeSw8bpnq3YV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eT80MyMBMj29JaIjkUUw5X32%2BmStTvqJT6USPWiOXF7HZje2WqUzIOZhz8gbJM2TPLa3kMZMFrfLQKNiS8mwdotEn7yPP6ymiwkauuI0If%2BP28jvsoxf1G0mLRYJfCxmWPVii%2FmxG%2Fi3ngWqO7zm7iNGyPFJtEX3rtVXAJt4KfyKmPCp5zNTerW8q8QrhWERr6z3SeEvBCxkHF32vChoXKwOoruAWU%2Bn0dOQGhdKMRZiSen%2BxytkaQgZXVjNgx2E8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6Tg4yFZg

Yes but listing don't tell is it front or rear cylinder heads exhaust can.

You can actually buy a new even not cheap and I will probably need the followers as well 

Congrats!

A exhaust has arrived for the red RC24 

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Old stock whit some storage damage 

Well the Red RC24 finally in garage to get exhaust mounted and together for a ride or two still this season, before starting doing modifications, some final bits on the way 

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The RWB RC24 is moved to back of back room to wait for the camshaft repair.....

Finally some progress 

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Fitment not perfect and perhaps not best option power wise but sure good looking.

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Have to do something to these, side stand hits the exhaust, probably from wear as play in the side stand 

A box of part's has arrived 

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I will be busy next winter 

Looks like a 41mm prep kit and some rear ride height.  Nice.

Keep in mind, you will have to remove the steering lock bracket from the frame to use that upper triple clamp.  If you want to retain that function, source a 1988/89 VFR upper triple. Dimensionally they are same, but the ignition mount is angled for the frame bracket.  They are def not as good looking though.

3 hours ago, Captain 80s

Looks like a 41mm prep kit and some rear ride height.  Nice.

Keep in mind, you will have to remove the steering lock bracket from the frame to use that upper triple clamp.  If you want to retain that function, source a 1988/89 VFR upper triple. Dimensionally they are same, but the ignition mount is angled for the frame bracket.  They are def not as good looking though.

Yes, indeed, decided to do the 41mm fork conversation anyway. Thanks for the info, don't know if I will need the steering lock, bike will be ither garaged or near me on a ride....

But now I want it together as orginal one more time and ride it a few times before tear it apart

What front wheel are you going to use?

7 hours ago, Captain 80s

What front wheel are you going to use?

I have a CBR F2 front wheel, actually complete 91/92 F2 fork, but plan to match the 1990 CBR1000f fork inner tubes whit the F2 outer as I have a 1990 CBR1000F fork as well around.

I had plans to do a ride yesterday on the red RC24, but that didn't work out, filling the tank whit fuel and trying to start ended up whit bike starting but fuel flooding from the carbs that I did rebuild a bit on a year back.

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So did let it sit over night and time did wonders so no fuel leak today. The fuel of today whit ethanol is no good for carburetor fed engine's, if you let them sit whit fuel in them the jets get glogged and if you store them dry the O-rings shrink.... I prefer the later of them...

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So ready for a ride.

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 And what a joy to ride!

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Actually if you have seen my other post's for my other motorcycle's I did a ride yesterday to local nice Cafe and the Ducati club had a fall ride stop there, and they sounded lovely that made me look at Ducati's yesterday evening 😅

Well fortune the ride today proved no Ducati needed! The RC24 whit the new silencers sounds so nice! The ride was a blast!

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Well other biker's out today to even more chilly than yesterday.

But what a blast this RC24 is to ride!

Well my RC24's are at a winter reast next to each other for now (and the SevenFifty also next to the as the KTM that is friend's has finally disappeard) in the back room until I start the wheel swap on the Red one..

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I have a few projects before that that I like to be done.

I just pulled the trigger for a complete rear head of a 1986 RC24 for my RWB RC24 that has one exhaust cam gone bad. This way I will get cam as followers, and some spares.... And bought from a place I can return if not in good nic. 75€ is not so bad I think.... Might be a overkill to get a complete head whit cam's, but feel's best this way 

Early Christmas present arrived today.

Inside this

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A 1986 RC24 rear head, looks healthy to me, at least the camshaft I need from it 🙂

Well as I was not so good health wise I ordered a few bites to the red RC24 from a nearby breaker.

This morning I was fit to look thro the bit's 

Some where nice but there where a few disappointments 

The good was a look kit whit one orginal key.

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So no more flat screwdriver in pocket to gas station, as old fuel cap had a broken key in it as was a but worn looking like you see in next picture 

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Other nice bit was a rear brake pedal as current is cracked 

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Then there was a brained clutch as rear brake line

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The rear brake line looked just dirty but actually it's the brained steel that has started to corrode under the clear plastic cover.

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So nothing you can do about.... Bummer 

Then there was a central stand whit spring 

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Well it looked ok even missing the tube it attach to frame whit.... I did a note of that the attachment tube was missing, as I have ordered quit a bit of parts from that breaker during the years and been ok parts so far, he responded he will look if he finds it, well eventually he will not, as closer inspection tell her has grinded the central stand off as the tube is still stuck inside 

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Bummer 

Then he had a front fairing stay that looked straight even it had a crack near where one of the mounting bolts for frame, but now testing it it's about 3mm twist in the front part

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And the faster to frame has several cracks repair by welding as other side close to current crack has been cut as reweld to compensate the twist.

I have given the seller a email, let's see how he responds 

16 hours ago, keny

Then there was a brained clutch as rear brake line

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The rear brake line looked just dirty but actually it's the brained steel that has started to corrode 

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So nothing you can do about.... Bummer 

I use 3:1 ratio, 3/4" heat shrink for marine electrical cables.  It has an adhesive that gets activated when you heat it for shrinking and seals the line for protection.  It's big enough to get over the banjo fitting but shrinks up for a nice look.  You have to use the "HIGH" setting on the heat gun and slowly work your way from the center out to the ends, rotating the line over the gun as you go.  Trim it about an 1/8" short and you can pull/stretch it out to where you want it when everything is still warm.  If you go long and try to push it shorter, it will wrinkle up a bit.

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Even if the brake line is in good condition I still do this for rub protection and it looks good to me.  Especially if you are trying to maintain a more stock look.

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I use the 1/2" version on the remote res hose when I have shocks rebuilt too.

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+1 for Marine grade heat shrink.

We obviously used it extensively on the  ships I was on as it protected our wiring long term from corrosion in a salt air environment, and was also effective for short term immersion in, well, the ocean.

3 hours ago, Captain 80s

I use 3:1 ratio, 3/4" heat shrink for marine electrical cables.  It has an adhesive that gets activated when you heat it for shrinking and seals the line for protection.  It's big enough to get over the banjo fitting but shrinks up for a nice look.  You have to use the "HIGH" setting on the heat gun and slowly work your way from the center out to the ends, rotating the line over the gun as you go.  Trim it about an 1/8" short and you can pull/stretch it out to where you want it when everything is still warm.  If you go long and try to push it shorter, it will wrinkle up a bit.

[image: PXL_20251123_213403639.thumb.jpg.7266ff56037c894b4f5de88e90109df7.jpg]

Thanks for the tip

The odd thing I think is the corrosion has started elsewhere but not where the clamp to the brake caliper rod is, then on the clutch line it's more less logic. As I have believe the brained lines are from stainless, could be more logic it's the inside of plastic covers inside that has effected of UV from sun over time?

10 hours ago, keny

Thanks for the tip

The odd thing I think is the corrosion has started elsewhere but not where the clamp to the brake caliper rod is, then on the clutch line it's more less logic. As I have believe the brained lines are from stainless, could be more logic it's the inside of plastic covers inside that has effected of UV from sun over time?

Yes, the clear coating can get cloudy, stained and discolored.  That's another reason I use this.  Go right over the top.  Even lines that have the thicker sheathing I install over.  And you can use a little WD-40 on longer lines like clutch to keep the shrink tubing moving over the banjo fitting, no issues.