I faced this little challenge when I borrowed the throttle tube from my 99 to use on my 1200. I couldn't get a straight shot at those screws so I opted to back off the adjusters fully, which gave just enough slack at the throttle housing.
Please tell me you didn't use a Phillips head bit? First rule of wrenching on any Honda (or Japanese motorcycle for that matter) is to remove all Phillips head screwdrivers from your toolbox and toss them in the trash.
I've done a handful of throttle cable replacements on 5th gens. Much easier to get that little bracket off first and install last.
-stuff a rag or paper tower wad below that area in the V of the engine just in case you drop a screw. It will be less likely to vanish if you prevent it's path from falling into the void below the throttle bodies.
-ratcheting offset 1/4" drive screwdriver fit with a JIS bit is your best friend for this job. Bonus points if you get one with a swivel head.
This little fella stays in a tool roll next to an ammo clip of JIS bits. I also keep a standard 1/4" bit driver (traditional screwdriver profile).
Please tell me you didn't use a Phillips head bit? First rule of wrenching on any Honda (or Japanese motorcycle for that matter) is to remove all Phillips head screwdrivers from your toolbox and toss them in the trash.
I don't think I'd go that far, but yeah you need to be using JIS drivers/bits on any Japanese vehicles. Haven't stripped a single head since discovering this. Don't get the cheapest Chineseum ones either get 'em from a quality tool vendor. They are totally worth it.
I don't think I'd go that far, but yeah you need to be using JIS drivers/bits on any Japanese vehicles.
Maybe move them to a junk tools bag used for DIY home repairs? I'd get them out of your main vehicle repair tool box though, not worth the chance of a mix up. The thing about JIS bits and drivers is they are perfectly fine (and sometimes superiors choice) to use on Phillips head fasteners. So it wouldn't matter if all you had to grab for were JIS bits since they can handle both.
Another quick tip. Take a photo of the cable ends before you pull them from the bracket. That way when you go to put them back you can set up the thread, bracket and nut spacing as it was. Will make life much easier so you aren't having to fight a ton of adjustment at the business end.
also.. if for what ever reason the swivel or offset of choice presents to much bulk to get a straight shot. .. Pull the JIS bit from the driver. slip the box end of a tiny 1/4" combo wrench over the bit. use your thumb and index finger to get this arrangement in place. keep a finger pushing on the backside of the bit as you turn the wrench with your other hand. once cracked loose, you should be able to remove the wrench and roll the bit between your index/thumb to remove the screw,
Another quick tip. Take a photo of the cable ends before you pull them from the bracket. That way when you go to put them back you can set up the thread, bracket and nut spacing as it was. Will make life much easier so you aren't having to fight a ton of adjustment at the business end.
also.. if for what ever reason the swivel or offset of choice presents to much bulk to get a straight shot. .. Pull the JIS bit from the driver. slip the box end of a tiny 1/4" combo wrench over the bit. use your thumb and index finger to get this arrangement in place. keep a finger pushing on the backside of the bit as you turn the wrench with your other hand. once cracked loose, you should be able to remove the wrench and roll the bit between your index/thumb to remove the screw,
That's a good idea. Although, if forgotten and mixed up it's not that hard to figure out mechanically. I never marked the ends. Roll the throttle tube open and closed with the throttle body ends disconnected and it's easy to see which cable shortens when "giving it the gas". That's the primary and needs to go on top.