[image: user posted image] I bought an RK gold x ring CHAIN and sprocket kit from AZ motor-sports for $140, the sprockets are OEM size and steel.
I decided that I was going to clean out all the gunk that has built up for the last 30k miles on my swing arm, CHAIN guides and whatever else needs cleaning.
[image: user posted image] I took off my wheel and moved the exhaust out of the way.
[image: user posted image] Loosen the 17mm pinch bolt
[image: user posted image] I decided to take off the CHAIN guard so I can clean that too unscrew the 2 plastic fasteners and pull them out.
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[image: user posted image] Remove the Hose stays, they bone shaped backers will fall out so be careful not to loose them 4 screws 2 places
Here is a tip - after you clean up your CHAIN guide use some tape to stick the bone shaped backers in place makes reinstalling much easier.
[image: user posted image] Remove the 2 hex bolts and take off the CHAIN guide.
[image: user posted image] I loosened the rear sprocket nuts
[image: user posted image] Remove the 6 bolts that hold on the clutch slave and speed sensor to get to the front sprocket, make note of the which bolts go where, they are odd sizes.
[image: user posted image] So thats what the speed sensor looks like, it just couples over the bolt on the sprocket.
[image: user posted image] OH my God look at all that gunk! don't loose the dowel pins inside 2 of them.
[image: user posted image] With the bike in 6th loosen the bolt, I forgot the size 14mm it think, its a normal bolt not reverse thread. WAY easier than those stupid Suzuki Hex bolt and nut combos.
I removed the metal CHAIN guide the crescent shaped plate with the holes in it and cleaned it up, and cleared all that gunk out of there, I just unbolted the swing-arm pivot axle and removed the sprocket and CHAIN intact.
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[image: user posted image] I also have a CHAIN breaker that pushes out the pins but I did not use it since the kit CHAIN is the right length, its a pain to use.
[image: user posted image] Here is the new stuff [image: user posted image]
[image: user posted image] Remove the rear sprocket now
[image: user posted image] Sprocket comparison, definitely had signs of wear, its hard to spot but these sprockets would have killed my new CHAIN if I had not changed them out too.
[image: user posted image] The front does not look worn at first glance
[image: user posted image] look again
[image: user posted image] I made a huge mess cleaned up all the gunk inside the sprocket well, the metal CHAIN guide, the CHAIN guard, the rubber CHAIN guide
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[image: user posted image] I used my CHAIN press tool to press on the master link.
[image: user posted image] Pressed on now it need to be peened out. don't forget to put the O-rings on first.
[image: user posted image] Fit in a rivet peen on the CHAIN too and went at it
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[image: user posted image] I measured the staked area 5.82mm (5.55-5.85 limit)
Replace everything and your good to go, the front bolt 38ft/lbs the rear nuts 25ft/lbs
Just a little advice, use a dremel or a grinder to grind down the rivets of any link (2 places). The rivet removing tools don't work well and require a lot of muscle. The grinder takes just 10 seconds per rivet. Pry the plate off with a large flat blade screwdriver. Don't remove the chain yet. Use the old chain to feed the new chain in by linking them with the new masterlink. This makes the process a lot easier IMO. One last bit of advice, don't tighten the masterlink on the new chain too much, it will cause that link to bind. Just a little mushroom head goes a long way. Don't ask me how I know it will bind if too tight. Use a vernier caliper to verify the masterlink plates are the same thickness as an adjoining plate. Tighten the mushroom tool, and recheck the thickness. :p
Kind of hard to thread a chain thru and replace the sprocket too, not much room up front. I did not use the braker at all, I took it off still toghether, WAY easier than useing that damn braker!
HispanicSlammer, Feb. 20 2003,20:13Kind of hard to thread a chain thru and replace the sprocket too, not much room up front. �I did not use the braker at all, �I took it off still toghether, WAY easier than useing that damn braker!
It worked for me. Maybe your front sprocket area has less room to work with then on my bike. Here's what worked for me: I loosened the front sprocket bolt, but left the sprocket on. I broke the old chain, loosly connected the old chain to the new chain using the new master link, and threaded the new chain around the old sprocket. I then removed the chain from around the old front sprocket and removed the old sprocket almost at the same time. I then positioned the new sprocket on the new chain and put the sprocket on the spline shaft. I installed the master link, put on the rear tire, and then tightened the front sprocket bolt. I also replaced the rear sprocket somewhere in the middle. :p
Oh its just a motion pro chain braker, I found a staking pin, it was a bit too big to fit inside so I drilled it out to the right bore. �Apex sports had the staking pin. �I would suggest you logg on to sprocket specialist and get thier DID chain tool, that one is a good one. �Or get the official honda tool.
I am going to get the kit and add the clip link and ride it to a dealer where they can rivit it for me.
Miguel: I saw on the VFR mail list archives that the motion pro is prone to breaking pins, so it is probably a good thing that you found a bigger bore one and modified it. One lister used masonary nails and his cut off wheel to make home made pins.
I'd like to replace my chain, but have zero chain specific tools. What do I need to buy?
Pressed on now it need to be peened out. don't forget to put the O-rings on first.
Fit in a rivet peen on the chain too and went at it
Don't know what that means, exactly. Does the chain tool have an attatchment to "peen out" the rivet? Is this all accomplished with one tool?
I removed the metal chain guide the crescent shaped plate with the holes in it and cleaned it up, and cleared all that gunk out of there, I just unbolted the swing-arm pivot axle and removed the sprocket and chain intact.
This is the footpeg holder? I replaced mine a few months ago because I dropped it on the left side, and the footpeg holder was bent. I ended up taking it to the mech, because I was afraid that the whole swingarm would drop off the frame with that bolt removed. Did you support the swing arm at all? Or does that bolt come out pretty easy?
There is a long bolt that fits thru the swing arm, just remove the nut on one side and slide it out far enough to slide the chain off, you can swing the chain guide out of the way to do this. you dont even need to break the chain.
You need a chain press to press on the master link plates onto the master link, then somthing to peen out the master link rivets once the plate is on to hold it on. you can get them for about $30 bucks, just buy a chain with 108 links so you dont have to break it.
I purchased the motion pro kit this week and have changed my first chain. I broke the staking (riveting) pin right away, and used a home-made modified screw to finish the job. Some one on the vfr mailing list said to use masonary nails, so I will try that next time. I dremelled the chain off and didn't try the pin pusher/breaker function.
You need quite a bit of oomph to press the plates on, and even more to tighten the rivets, the plates on the tool move around a bit, so I found it necessary to loosen and retighten a bit. The rivets do look nice when finished though.
If you take off the chain guide, assuming your chainging the sprockets too, just take off the old chain intact like I did. You have to take off the bolts (explained above but its much easier)
I read your write up and gleaned many wise words from it. I thought of doing it your way, but the new chain was in pieces anyway. I couldn't find the RK kit for the VFR up here, just CBR's, so my dealer ordered seperate chain and sprockets in for me. Gave me a decent price so I can't complain.
Your pics regarding the frame and swingarm look different on my 95 than it does on your 800, so I just dremelled the sucker off, instead of playing with it. Thanks for the tip.
spinalator, Sep. 26Your pics regarding the frame and swingarm look different on my 95 than it does on your 800, so I just dremelled the sucker off, instead of playing with it. Thanks for the tip.
I'll see your Dremel and raise you a 4-1/2" angle grinder. :p
The "Binford 6000 chain remover". Arrrh, arrh, arrrrrh! :laugh:
So, replacement front sprockets don't have the same rubber type coverings on the sides that the OEM do? I pulled my sprockets and chain off, and noticed quite a difference in the two fronts. Looking at Miguel's pictures, it looks like the same as mine, hard to tell though. Kev :blues:
HispanicSlammer, Sep. 02There is a long bolt that fits thru the swing arm, just remove the nut on one side and slide it out far enough to slide the chain off, you can swing the chain guide out of the way to do this. you dont even need to break the chain.
Alright, chain and sprockets are on. I did the same as Miguel, and unbolted the swingarm pivot to take the chain out unbroken. Now, I'm having trouble getting it back together. I have the hole on the bottom lined up with the bolt head that keeps it from swinging, but the main part where the swinarm bolt passes through won't meet up with the swingarm. Seems to be a 1 or 2 mm gap. I've tried tightening the nut to draw it all together, but no dice. Miguel, was this a problem for you? Am I missing something easy?
Make sure your rear set is aligned properly on both sides of that bolt, it can swing down when it is loose and pop out of the grooves it fits into. The arms on the rear sets have holes for access to the hex bolts they cover, make sure those are lined up and not out of the groove.
Put that gold one on last year, streatched the hell out of it at the track day. �Replaced it with a non gold RK x ring chain. �None availible at the dealer. �Needed a new chain and didnt want to miss a ride.
It is interesting to note that my RK chain would not have been compatible with that rubber padded front sprocket cause of the shape of the links, the rubber is designed for peanut shaped chain links.
Dammit! I really want to get my VFR back on the road! This swingarm bolt just won't go. The spacer must be out of line or something, because it won't go together. The footpeg brackets are lined up the way they are supposed to be, but it just won't come together where the bolt passes through. I'm trying to move the swingarm to get the holes to line up, but nothing is working right now. Gotta wait till Thursday, now. :shake: Kev :blues:
I know this is an old thread but I have a few questions before I take on this task of chain/sprockets.
I do not have a chain press or riveting tool. I really dont want to spend $100-150 on the tools. I noticed that Miguel took the chain and sprockets off in one fell swoop by removing the swingarm bolt. Could I have the chain pressed and riveted at my local shop and then put it on the same way as Miguel took it off?
Yes make sure the length is correct and have them rivet the whole thing. You would have to loosen the swing arm bolt, take off the chain gaurd, and remove the clutch slave assembly. Since your going through all that trouble go ahead and replace the sprockets too, its all right there.
I'm replacing my chain over the winter as well and have decided to use the good old clip link on my chain. I dont have a rivet tool and last time i tried mushrooming out the rivets i wasnt satisfied with the job and never did fully trust the job i did....so........ i'm going with the clip link and then use some liquid steel over the clip so there would be no chance of it coming off. tongue.gif Opinions welcome :angry: Dude
Thanks for the info Slammer. I was planning on doing the sprockets also.
What is everyones take on using a master clip? The last chain I purchased was for my 96 and I used a clip. For some reason I would think about that little clip alot while riding. It never failed in the 8-10k I put on it.
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