Replace Stator And Flywheel - How To With Pics

Might have a problem.

Before we use any power tools, let's take a moment to talk about shop safety. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And remember this: there is no more important safety rule than to wear these — safety glasses.

Always wanted to say that! (credit Norm Abram)

Below are some pictures of the stator to regulator/rectifier 3P connector located on the right had side of the bike under the fairing. This is what lead me to a stator replacement (besides the not-so-cool smell of burning plastic and flat batteries)...

Totally melted white connector block.

References:

• Honda Service Manual (Chapter 17 for Year '02) - Found in Forum Downloads
  
• 2002 VFR800 Stator Recall Letter - Found in Sixth Generation VFR's
  
• VFR Discussion HOW-TO Stator Replacement
  

Besides your regular tools you will need:

• Torque wrench capable of 12 N-m or 9 lbf-ft
  
• Torque wrench capable of 103 N-m or 76 lbf-ft
  
• Specified Honda Flywheel Puller or a Flywheel Puller with small arms
  
• Specified Honda Flywheel Holder or a strap wrench
  
• Gasket scraper
  
• Gasket sealant
  

As far as level of difficulty goes this job rates just slightly harder than changing your oil - and only because a couple more tools are required.

First, remove both left and right side panels then remove the radiator overflow bottle and hang it out of the way (no need to empty it).

Radiator overflow - wired out of the way

Next, undo the electrical connectors. I had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to get the sealed type connectors opened. There is only ONE tab (despite what I thought) and they can be a little troublesome to pull apart since the seals create a bit of suction.

Here is the one tab you need to lift up on (arrow)...

Sealed Connectors

TRICK - You will also need to disconnect the stator to regulator/rectifier 3P connector on the right hand side. Once it is disconnect tape a string or wire securely to the end. This way when you pull the stator off the left side to the bike the string/wire will follow --- this will help you to pull the new stator wire back through the engine "V" later.

Stator plug taped to wire - prior to pulling

With all the connector undone you can get to work on the left side case cover. You'll want to put a rag down to catch any oil that spills out - I only lost about 1/4 cup and my engine oil level was still good at the end to this repair. With the bolts removed carefully pry the left side cover off. The magnets in the flywheel want to hold the cover on as does the gasket. I managed to find a couple of tabs that I could get the screwdriver behind and pry on - just go slowly and work the cover evenly off the aligning dowels. You shouldn't have any problems.

With the cover removed my stator looked like this...

Toasty stator

In comparison the new stator looks like this...

Old stator (left) and new stator

Remove the old stator, clean the old gasket material off the cover, replace the stator and torque to specs.

TIP - Placing the rubber wire grommet into the cover was a bit of a stretch no matter how I tried. For a while I thought that the grommet was in the wrong place and too close to the stator. In the end I just worked the grommet into place as I tightened down the wire keeper and then tightend down the stator.

If you are replacing the flywheel - read on.

Remove the single bolt holding the flywheel in place. To do this you will need something to stop the flywheel from turning (engine compression won't do it). I used a cheap strap wrench.

Cheap flywheel wrench

Next, Honda specifies a flywheel puller in the Service Manual. It is nothing more than a correctly threaded bolt with arms that can be hammered on. The "bolt" threads into the end of the flywheel and presses against the end of the tapered shaft that the flywheel sits on. Hammering on the "bolt's arms" caused the bolt to push against the shaft and force the flywheel off the shaft.

Flywheel Puller

TIP - Bring your new flywheel into a machine shop and have your own "puller" built.

TRICK - Service Honda lists the tool as a "PULLER DYNAMO" and sells it for $16.46 USD. My rental puller cost me $10 so it's probably worth the extra $6.50 to have the correct tool for the job - you can alway rent it out to your VFR buddies for a case of beer and you'll end up way ahead!!

Flywheel with rented puller.jpg

Here is a close-up. If you do use this method you will need a puller that can fit through the center of the flywheel and push against the end of the tapered shaft. The end on this puller was about 5/8" and fit through nicely without going inside the tapered shaft or damaging the threads on the flywheel (my flywheel will be replaced with the kit anyway but no sense doing a bunch of damage). Those holes in the flywheel are also quite small so you'll want very small arms on the puller. I had to place each arm into their respective holes and then reattach them to the body of the puller.

Flywheel with rented puller close-up.jpg

When you have the flywheel removed clean off any stuck on gasket being careful not to let any get into the engine. It should look like this...

Leftside crankcase empty.jpg

Apply a thin film of oil to the tapered shaft then slide the new flywheel on and torque it into place using the flywheel wrench to keep it from spinning. There is no shear pin or key - it's just a friction fit.

Cheap flywheel wrench

Now apply sealant to the specified locations (I gave a thin coat all the way around), place the gasket on the dowel pins, more sealant, then replace the cover with the new stator installed and torque to specs - tightening in a criss cross pattern.

TIP - In this case the specs on the bolts aren't published in Chapter 17 of the Honda Service Manual. Instead look in Chapter 1 - General Information page 1-12 to find the "Standard Torque Values".

TRICK - I read that someone cracked their cover by using the bolts to pull it into place. This is because the magnets in the flywheel want to pull everything out of alignment and the cover was not properly seated on the dowel pins. I used some rod to help align the stator cover. An even better solution would be to buy a couple of bolts about 2-4 inches longer than the cover bolts. Take those extra long bolts and cut the heads off and you'll have some aligning studs. Thread the studs in, place the cover on the studs and then slide the cover into place. Remove the aligning studs a "Bobs your Uncle".

Rods to help guide case cover while installing

Once everything is torqued in place, pull your new stator wire back through the engine "V" using your string/wire (you may need to fiddle a bit with it). Then reconnect all the electrical plugs - might as well add some dielectric grease to them while your at it.

Replace the radiator overflow bottle and reattach your fairings. Check your oil and start her up.

To get the full benefit of your the new alternator you should really upgrade the remainder of the charging system --- check out Electrical Upgrade - How To With Pics.

The last thing I added was a voltmeter to monitor the situation. You can see it here at Lascar Voltmeter Install Pics.

NOTE - most of the tips and tricks came from this website in various posts and references. Thanks for all your help.

Great idea about the safety tip. I actually thought my reactions were quick enough to shut my eyes if anything headed towards them. A trip to the emergency room (actually twice) taught me I'm not as fast as I thought I was. BTW, ferrous materials will actually begin rusting in your eye before they get them out.

Somedays we are as stupid as our wives/girl friends think we are.

I need to get this done, how long should my motorcycle repair shop estimate to do this work.. ? Actually mine is a 1999. Not sure if the process is very different

thanks,

gearoid.

I did my stator, and I wanted to add to the alignment step. I purchased 4 6mm x 75mm bolts at Lowes for ~$7. I cut the heads off of them and then used them in every other whole to accomplish the alignment. It worked like a charm.

Thanks for the write up on this, my dealer wanted $225 + $275 ($500) to do the stator repair. I bought the Rick's for $160 (that included shipping) and did it myself. case torque specs honda vfr

Looks identical to my connector on the 04. I did away with the connector and all is well.

Does anyone know what size thread the flywheel needs for a flywheel puller? There's a bucket of tools on eBay etc but none of them mention the 2002+ models and the thread size needed. Honda Australia is quoting me $122 for the tool which supposedly costs $16 in the USA.

The best info I can find is that the thread might be M20 x 1.5 RH thread. A tool is available from Motion Pro in that size..

kaldek

Does anyone know what size thread the flywheel needs for a flywheel puller? There's a bucket of tools on eBay etc but none of them mention the 2002+ models and the thread size needed. Honda Australia is quoting me $122 for the tool which supposedly costs $16 in the USA.

The best info I can find is that the thread might be M20 x 1.5 RH thread. A tool is available from Motion Pro in that size..

NFI

Auspañol

kaldek

Does anyone know what size thread the flywheel needs for a flywheel puller? There's a bucket of tools on eBay etc but none of them mention the 2002+ models and the thread size needed. Honda Australia is quoting me $122 for the tool which supposedly costs $16 in the USA.

The best info I can find is that the thread might be M20 x 1.5 RH thread. A tool is available from Motion Pro in that size..

NFI

Wow mate, that was the most useful post, EVER! :laughing6-hehe:

Anyway I took a punt and ordered the M20x1.5 RH tool as listed above. We'll find out soon enough if it works!

My new flywheel arrived today, and I dropped down to the local bolt supply company since my flywheel puller bolt hasn't arrived yet. I can confirm that M20x1.5 RH thread is the correct bolt size for removing the flywheel on any 6th-gen VFRs.

The guys only asked for a couple of bucks but I threw them $5 since I've managed to get a couple of free bolts off them in the past.

Only problem is, now that my Shorai Lithium-phosphate battery has arrived my signal dynamics voltmeter is no longer complaining about low voltages at idle. It's even sitting above 12.5 volts with the engine off and all the accessories powered up (and headlights too).

Just curious, why was the flywheel replaced?? Was it damaged somehow?? I didn't see any reason in the write-up.

wera803

Just curious, why was the flywheel replaced?? Was it damaged somehow?? I didn't see any reason in the write-up.

It's listed briefly in the first post - basically the 2002 model VFRs had a weak charging system that would flatten the battery when idling if the lights are on and the fan kicks in. And when the stator starts to wear out the problem only gets worse.

There was a recall for these in the USA, whereby the stator and flywheel were replaced for free, but in some cases folks did it themselves. Like me, for example, doing it now. :-)

kaldek

It's listed briefly in the first post - basically the 2002 model VFRs had a weak charging system that would flatten the battery when idling if the lights are on and the fan kicks in. And when the stator starts to wear out the problem only gets worse.

There was a recall for these in the USA, whereby the stator and flywheel were replaced for free, but in some cases folks did it themselves. Like me, for example, doing it now. :-)

Okay, thanks. I knew there were stator problems, but didn't realize the flywheel would "wear" and need to be replaced as well. Maybe it looses magnatism?? I don't think it actually touches the stator, does it??

wera803

Okay, thanks. I knew there were stator problems, but didn't realize the flywheel would "wear" and need to be replaced as well. Maybe it looses magnatism?? I don't think it actually touches the stator, does it??

No no, they don't wear - only the stator wears out (heat causes the insulation in the wires to break down). The main problem was that the stator and flywheel combination on the 2002 was so small that it could not charge the battery and run the lights when the bike was idling. In other words, it wasn't manly enough and the bike needed a bigger one!

OK folks I have two flywheel puller bolts ready to go. One of them is solid, one hollow. Which one do you all think I should use?

Use the hollow one!

Will the solid one damage the hole for the flywheel retaining bolt on the end of the crankshaft?

The hollow bolt by the way is the Motion Pro tool.

Well I just did my flywheel and stator upgrade this evening, and it all went smoothly! I tell you, that strap wrench idea was fuggin' useless if you're a piss-weak nerd like me or don't have any friends handy. In the end, I removed the flywheel bolt using my airgun - BAP BAP BAP and off she came, just by putting the gearbox into sixth. If you don't have an air ratchet, you really will need to either be a strong mutha, or have a mate put everything he has into holding that flywheel in place with the strap wrench.

One thing I thought would be a nightmare (but ended up being a piece of piss) was getting the flywheel off the crank. I mean I stuck that Motion Pro bolt in there, turned it a couple of times and I was freaking out because it wasn't getting tight until I realised the flywheel had already come off the crank. :goofy:

Anyways, with the new flywheel and stator I'm getting 22 volts AC at idle (cold) whereas I was previously getting 18 with the OEM 2002 stator and flywheel.

I will definitely recommend that anyone changing their stator have an impact screwdriver handy, because the bolts holding the stator to the engine cover are TIGHT and the screw heads (they'll either be torx or hex) are soft and will round out before you know it. When my original 2002 stator died in 2010 (cooked itself), I couldn't get the bolts out and got so mad I attacked the entire stator with an angle grinder. It was good stress relief, but fugged up the stator alright.

Gosh, is there anything left on this bike I *haven't* changed?! :blink:

I wonder if the "upgraded" 2002+ stator and rotor would fit a 5th gen?????

Veefer800Canuck

I wonder if the "upgraded" 2002+ stator and rotor would fit a 5th gen?????

Probably. But I would first measure the 5th-gen unit because they might be the same size anyway. If you have or know the codes written on the stator and flywheel from a 5th-gen we can check it out. I'm not talking about the Honda code though, I'm talking about the code like "10CY" or similar written on each part.

Check this out though - I see that Honda Parts house has the combined stator/flywheel upgrade kit ("AC Generator Set") for only $194! The part code is: 31100-MCW-315. A must for any 2002 owner, as I just paid $165 for the flywheel alone!

Also, since changing the flywheel and stator I rode to work today in heavy traffic. Even when idling with the lights on and fan running, my voltages never dipped below 13.2. That's way better than the old charging system.

Definitely a recommended upgrade for 2002 owners who commute in traffic (especially in hot climates).

Veefer800Canuck

I wonder if the "upgraded" 2002+ stator and rotor would fit a 5th gen?????

I'm at 14v with a Rick's stator and original rotor.

Don't know how long it'll last, though...

I would like to add a few helpful hints that I discovered during this installation that may help others.

1. When wrapping a wire around the plug to pull through, be sure to wrap it in such a may that there are no sharp edges to catch. I did not do this on the first pull, and the plug seemed to catch every edge it could find and had to be coaxed through with a long screwdriver. On the second pull, I wrapped the plug with smooth electrical tape in the shape of a bullet. It pulled through effortlessly.

2. This tip is obvious for those with mechanical experience. I wished I used a chemical gasket remover because it is very easy to scratch the soft metal surface of the stator cover. I also removed the small bits of (silicone?) around the wire plug that were originally installed at the factory. Probably should not have done this.

Just diagnosed a faulty stator on my 2006 model (already replaced R/R and battery on AA advice!!). Can anyone advise if this model would need the rotor replaced as well as stator - obviously hope not as this would make job much easier. Also any idea of outer diameter for 2006 model - is it the 107mm or 115mm??? Cheers

06 should have an upgraded rotor.

I just changed my stator and left the rotor in place.

With new stator and some upgrades to the charging system (extra grounds, beefier charging wires and direct soldering instead of plug connectors, I get excellent charging at all RPMs with all of my lights, fan and heaters on high.

Didn't do the flywheel, but I have fond memories of my RR and Stator-ectomy taking place in the parking lot of the BW in Eureka, CA.

Thanks to HS & radar (and a few on lookers holding the beer), she came out of post op just fine. Sucked having it happen on the road, but

so rewarding to be riding with peeps who know what the heck they were doing. I'd offer this tid bit. . . .

If you are experiencing even slight electrical blips, before you go much further than your local shop, order the parts & do it in the comfort of your own garage.

Another big shout out to tightwad for the site member source of where to get the parts www.wiremybike.com.

surfpete

Just diagnosed a faulty stator on my 2006 model (already replaced R/R and battery on AA advice!!). Can anyone advise if this model would need the rotor replaced as well as stator - obviously hope not as this would make job much easier. Also any idea of outer diameter for 2006 model - is it the 107mm or 115mm??? Cheers

Only the original 02 models, need a Rotor, all newer models already have the Newest flywheel/rotor. How many miles are on you 06 at stator failure?

surfpete

Can anyone advise if this model would need the rotor replaced as well as stator - obviously hope not as this would make job much easier. Also any idea of outer diameter for 2006 model - is it the 107mm or 115mm???

Rotors don't wear out, so no need to replace. Outer diameter of original 2002 model stator is 107mm. Outer diameter of upgraded stator is 115mm. I have one of each in my garage just lyin' around.

Ok so I got the stator redone, rewound.  I installed it just now and it does not charge as it was before the problem developed.

Now; 11.5 at idle, lights on. 12.30 lights off. after 4 minutes of this, shut off and it didn't want to come back on. (the battery is brand new)

Before; it was charging 13.30 idle, at 14.50 at 2k RPM.  It is using an RR from a Suz 1k, had been using it for 3 years now and all was well.

I'm trying to find the previous RR, the original one, that I took off 3 years ago, and test with that. I was never sure the original RR was a problem, just changed it because I found that other RR.

Any suggestions welcome! Thanks.

Welcome to the aftermarket stator world, it can be hit or miss,

Is the recall only on the 2002? I have a 2003 with 23k, did the vharness, installed voltage meter and cleaned connections not long after I bought it because 30amp fuse was getting warmer then I liked. But it seems like lately the voltage is still low at idle. I have seen 12.3v at idle with lights on high and fan rums. Always is about 14.2 around 2500k or above though.

The recall went through 2005.  Call the nearest dealer and read them your VIN # - they can tell you if it's been done.   This thread from the Superhawk forum discusses why R/R's eventually fail and the behavior they often exhibit when they do - might give some insight in to the fluctuating voltage.  

http://www.superhawk...-why-how-25117/

Just finished replacing the stator.
Used shishkebob skewers for guides when putting cover back on. Worked like a charm!

Just finished replacing the stator.
Used shishkebob skewers for guides when putting cover back on. Worked like a charm!

Really really long metric bolts of the same thread, with the heads cut off, make the best install tools for the stator and cover assembly.

Ditto!

[image: StatorPins.jpg]

I didn't read this thread before changing a 6th gen stator & fly wheel & kaldek on page two does show the special tool required to remove fly wheel. My Honda special tool is a standard 20mm metric fine bolt (metric fine is 1.5mm pitch thread).

Screw bolt into flywheel place ratchet gun on bolt & flywheel comes off in a second. zero need to modify a puller or buy any special tool.

First off, excellent post!! Secondly, I made the big mistake of losing my guide for the stator harness connector going through the V. Now I'm having to try to rethread a wire back through in order to connect it on the other side. Would it help if I disconnected the coolant hose on the right side for more room and visibility?

Again, excellent post!

I did the same on my stator replacement over the winter.  I have some 24" long zip ties I got at Harbor Freight.  IIRC I got a pack of 10 for under $2.  They're long enough and just rigid enough while still being flexible to be able to fish one through to the other side.  Once it came out I tied the wire to the zip tie and pulled it through.  I wasn't using the factory connector though, so I might have gotten it through where otherwise you would not. 

Interestingly, in the 6th gen FSM it does not specify removing anything to remove the wire, however the installation instructions say "replace the throttle body", so apparently Honda intends for that to be removed to replace the stator.  I doubt many ever remove the TB to get the wire across, but if you really get stuck that's what you may end up doing. 

:cheerleader: :cheerleader:

Hello everyone,

haven't been posting much as my motorcycle has been off road last year or so, mainly because of stator.

I've just managed to put in a new stator from Ricks and out of curiosity did the test between three wires, after connecting the stator to the cover which fits on the bike. The readings are around 0.6 ohms as expected(between 0.5 and 2 ohms).

But when I did other test between each of the three wires and engine case, though not fit on motorcycle yet, to my surprise it doesn't show 'OL' or '1' 'no reading(i.e. blank)'.

Should I assume that the new stator is faulty already? Is there any other way of checking that the new stator would work as expected :( or show 'OL' type of reading ?

Any help would be a blessing as after all the waiting and just a day away from fitting the stator on the motorcycle, I would rather find out that stator is faulty already and that I shouldn't be putting it on the bike.

Thanks a lot

GJ

You shouldn't have continuity between the three legs & ground so that is correct

That is correct, meaning stator is faulty ?

It show very tiny readings in ohms, 0.06, 0.06 and 0.04.

Sorry to ask further questions, but I hope you'll know what the feeling is right now when I find out that after waiting and getting a new stator it is faulty.

Something very strange has happened...

Just out of curiosity I was trying to figure out if there was a cut or scrap on the windings which is why there was continuity? and only thing I found was the clamp holding the wires down and on the side of the casing was bit too tight on the wires where they go in to triangular rubber gromet.

So just twisted the clamp a bit to loosen the three wires which were almost getting cut off by clamp, and there we go all sorted.

Now I check the continuity between the casing and three leads, and there is no reading.

Just worried though, I don't want it to happen once I fit it all on the bike.

Thanks TNRabbit for a quick response, did make me feel better when someone replied.

I recently had my stator go with close to 50k kmh on my 07. After searching around for options I thought I'd try Custom Rewind and I'm quite happy I did. 

All three stator segments were going to ground and they were all reading around .5 ohms. On run up at idle two of the three were only around 10v AC, one was around 20v AC. Not much of a change at 5k rpm. 

[image: 2015-06-02 19.28.29.jpg]

I called CR and spoke with Kirk who quoted me $100 for a full rebuild with whatever mods they do to make it run cooler. I mailed it on June 3rd, it arrived Friday the 6th, they had it done and mailed on the following Tuesday. Kirk made of point of telling me that they would get it done quick as a bike sitting in the garage in the summer is no good, that's awesome! I picked it up this morning and got this:

[image: 2015-06-17 10.40.57.jpg]

I was very happy with the end product, looked quite nice.

Install went fine, feeding the cable on removal was much more difficult than feeding it back through on install. I did build up the end of the connector with tape to form a tapered end so when pulling it through it wouldn't catch on anything. I should say that all my connectors looked excellent, no signs of burning, melting or corrosion so all I did was re and re the stator. End result:

[image: 2015-06-17 12.38.01.jpg]

I'm very happy knowing that the install isn't too hard and that for only $100 there's a hope that it will be a good product. Kirk at Custom Rewind was a super guy, very patient and helpful. 

Looks Good! Thats a great price & excellent service. Glad to see you are still around!

Gary

After going through many batteries (including a borrowed Li battery, $$$ ouch), and a few regular rectifiers, I've come to the conclusion that stator might be bad. A buddy who is a wiz on electrics confirmed this today, so I need to replace my 1997 VFR750 stator. I'm catching up on this topic and learned the OEM part is history. So its either an aftermarket or a rebuilt unit. 

This post (fantastic, by the way) is not really clear on either/or, so I'm asking: for a cheap S.O.B. like me what should I look into?

I used Custom Rewind for my 6th gen stator.  Still working great.  Cost was a bit over $100. 

I used Custom Rewind for my 6th gen stator.  Still working great.  Cost was a bit over $100. 

+1 I put that sh#t on everything !