I�m an infrequent poster on this board, but I�ve been a long time lurker, so I�ve had the chance to follow the progress of numerous frankenviffer projects put together by VFRDers. It�s seemed to me that the 1st gen VFR�s were vastly underrepresented, so I thought I�d throw up a few pics of my current project. This upgrade is relatively tame by the exceptional standards set by other Frankenvifferers on this board beer.gif , but I was looking for a mostly bolt-on solution for my �87. As such, the plan was to fit a more modern front end to the bike while keeping the project manageable and doable by someone without access to a machine shop or even power tools. I�d have to get by with borrowed garage space and a comparatively limited collection of hand tools. Of course, I�d also armed myself with the factory shop manual and the collective knowledge offered by the many write-ups (and users) on this site. I figured that this, along with boundless enthusiasm and endless optimism, would allow me to overcome any other hurdles caused by the lack of skills and tools. unsure.gif
Goals for the project, as I saw them:
Be able to run modern radial tires. Allow me to fit suitably sticky track day rubber. (Hoping to do a track day this summer).
More modern, adjustable suspension. I�d like to be able to set-up the suspension for my lardy a$$. The new units will have to be resprung to suit my weight range. A fork with adjustments would be fun to tinker with. (And by that I mean something beyond air preload and anti-dive adjustment!)
Satisfy my urge to tinker. Possibly the only reason that really counts. I�ve been garage-less and project bike-less for a couple of years now (damn urban living). I needed a wrench spinning fix. Also, it�d be a chance to personalize the bike.
Try not to go too overboard with the cost. I didn�t fool myself into thinking this would be cheap, but I�d like to keep a reign on cost. It is, after all, an 18 year old bike of limited resale value.
Maintain a low profile. Make it a sleeper. Another compromise for urban living. Make the bike feel more modern without compromising its balanced ergos, and trendy (I like to think) retro 80�s wide-body look. Update the looks of the front end, without going overboard. One of the unfortunate consequences of urban living is a lack of indoor storage space (no garage) and a ridiculously high crime rate. My baby has to live outside year round in an exposed environment and the last thing I need is a fancy �06 upside �down GSXR/ZX/CBR/RC front end poking out of the bottom of my bike cover catching the attention of undesirables. I own/ride an old bike because I can�t afford to own and insure a new one. I won�t own a new bike until I own a garage and a very large, protective and vicious dog. The old VFR looks delightfully undesireable (so far, at least) to the (organized) criminal element, and I�d like to keep it that way. But still be able to kick some butt when its time to play.
Now, what to choose? As they say, you can adapt just about any front end to any bike with enough time, money and skills. I had a the time component handled, but limited funds and next to no skills beyond what I�d acquired at the school of hard knocks (previous, mostly ill-fated bike projects) and equipment beyond hand tools I could fit in the back of my car. A problem posed by grafting almost any modern front end onto an �80s bike is the length of the forks. The forks on the �87 are LONG, and almost all modern equivalents are WAY too short, causing problems with wheel clearance and giving you no hope of retaining anything near original geometry or ergonomics. By and large the most common upgrade for the early VFRs in a CBR F2/F3 front end � itself pretty straightforward and well documented on the web. The folks on the 1st gen VFR list helped me decide on, and source, a complete front end from a �97 onward Yamaha YZF600R. Less has been written about this conversion, but a couple of listers who�d managed to do it had raved about it. I lucked out, and managed to buy nearly everything I needed for the upgrade from somebody who�d done the same upgrade to his �86 VFR. I�d have the benefit of the lessons he�d learned in his own install, which I hoped would make this a relatively straightforward upgrade.
Alright, parts acquired, garage borrowed, shop manual in hand! Time to get started!
But first, a reference pic of the bike�s stock front end.
[image: user posted image] Lower fairing removed First step is to remove the lower fairings.
VFRmonkey � I�ve been following the FrankenMonkeyViffer project with great interest � keep up the great work!
I ran out of time to post more pics yesterday, so here�s a few more to get y�all up to date. Here�s another before shot of the view from the saddle.
[image: user posted image] Cockpit view prior to disassembly
Back the to work at hand:
First you�ll want to make preliminary reference measurements to give yourself a baseline to work from when you get to setting up the new front end. You�ll also need a means of getting the front end in the air. I used a combination of a rear swing-arm stand and a basic scissor jack and board under the front header pipes. The stock header pipes are steel, and plenty stout enough to support the weight of the bike. Ofcourse, you�ll need to pull the lower fairings to do this. I also pulled the seat, side panels and tank to get them out of the way. You�ll also have to remove the upper fairing (to access the back of the instruments where the speedo connects) so you�ll need to pull the headlight plug, remove the mirrors and unscrew the remaining mounting screws before pulling the whole unit straight towards the front of the bike. With all of the easily marred painted surfaces safely out of harms way, I then started to disassemble the front wheel. Disconnect the speedo cable from the drive gear and remove the RHS caliper. You can then pull the axle and front wheel.
[image: user posted image] Wheel removed Remove RHS brake caliper and hang by wire. Front wheel can then be removed.
Next, lose the front fender and tackle the LHS caliper. You'll want a high quality set of metric allen wrenches here - the LHS caliper mount bolts were a real b%tch to remove. Preferably an allen socket that you fit to a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet so you can use leverage to your advantage. I got by with a pair of vice-grips gripping a basic L-shaped key, but I nearly broke the key off before the bolt gave. Not recommended.
[image: user posted image] Remove fender, brake calipers
Before pulling the forks, you�ll have to take apart the stock controls and remove the clip-ons. With these out of the way, you can then loosen the upper fork bridge pinch bolts, then the lower pinch bolts and slide the forks out. Now would be a good time to unplug the horn and unbolt its mount bracket. This will give you easy access to the brake system junction block which is bolted to the lower triple clamp. With these bolts undone, it is now possible to remove the front brake system in it�s entirety, from the bike. You�ll want to use a bit of care here to avoid depressing the brake lever (wooden shims between the front brake pads to keep you from accidentally popping the pistons out of the calipers would be a good idea here), but the whole system can be manipulated off the bike by passing the brake lever and master cylinder down through the space now vacated by the forks.
Ta-da! One complete front brake system, sans VFR.
[image: user posted image] VFR Brake system Once forks are removed, gentle manipulation allows removal of entire brake system in one piece, fluid drain not required...
Note: In the event that you plan to disassemble to stock system, you�ll want to have drained the system while it was still attached to the bike (easier). I took the easy/lazy route instead.
[image: user posted image] clip-ons, fork and brake system removed
Now it�s time to tackle removing the triple clamps. The upper fork bridge is pretty easy � you�ll want a big 30mm socket to undo the steering stem nut. (I daresay you may be able to get by with a big adjustable wrench here, but I didn�t have one, so I purchased a 30mm socket from my local Sears tool center). The locknut, lock washer and bearing adjustment nut can also be removed with an expensive steering stem socket tool, but I cheaped out and used the simple, available rubber mallet/drift combo to gently undo the nuts. Be ready to catch the lower triple/steering stem assembly once you�ve removed said nuts because it falls out with gentle downward persuasion.
There, your disassembly is basically complete.
The next phase involves fitting VFR tapered steering head bearings to the �97-onward YZF600R (not R6!) steering stem. Yes, that�s correct. The YZF steering stem/triples can be used with no major modifications or machining. (Heck, even the steering stops work!). You will likely want to employ the services of a machining shop to help press the lower bearing onto the YZF stem, but that�s up to you. I�ll skip over a lot of the gory details at this point, since HS has put together a great write-up on this site about fitting tapered steering head bearings to his VFR, and all the basic steps are the same for this model VFR. Follow his write-up and you�ll be golden.
Next up: Installing the YZF triples and doing a test fit of the forks and wheel to check clearances�..
I did the CBR600F2 swap to mine because I wanted to stay with all Honda parts for that "factory look". I did the front forks, triples, wheel, brakes as well as the rear wheel.
I'm enjoying your write-up, and looking forward to seeing the completed product! One question though, is the YZF stem already the right diameter for the VFR bearing or does it have to be turned down?
Looks cool. I did the CBR600F2 swap to mine because I wanted to stay with all Honda parts for that "factory look". I did the front forks, triples, wheel, brakes as well as the rear wheel.
If you get an error message, it's because of too much site traffic. Check again in an hour.
Hey, it's free, You get what you pay for!
Pegasus, are you planning on fitting a wider rear wheel to complement the front?
Also from a Yamaha or did you have something else in mind?
That�s a sharp looking conversion. I was originally going to go the F2 route until the YZF front end practically fell into my lap. I still think the F2 front/rear combo is the cleanest looking swap, but I am really looking forward to the YZF�s brakes, which promise to be even a step beyond the F2�s more than sufficient set-up. I am curious to find out how you lengthened the stock rear shock � did you do it yourself, or did you have a suspension shop handle it? I also really like the Hawk GT bars � I�m also pondering if I�d like to try and find a higher set of bars that might work with this swap (FZ6, maybe?). I am planning on following the front end swap up with a rear rim swap, so that I can run matching radials on the bike. I still haven�t settled on what rim I�ll be using. As you know, the F2/F3 rims are pretty popular, but those 5 spoke rims would be at odds with the YZF�s 3 spoke front. Unfortunately, the YZF rear won�t work with the bike � I�ve read that the rear hub is too wide to fit the swing-arm. The only 3 spoke rim I�ve heard that others have run (usually on modded track bikes) is the rim off of an early-mid 90�s CBR1000, but at 5.5 inches (180 tire) I think it�s a bit of overkill on this bike, and expect that that much tire would likely slow the handling down. I wonder if a 3 spoke SV650 rim might work, but I haven�t been able to make measurements of one. Even better would be to stumble across an 18 inch HRC magnesium rim for cheap (fat chance!) At this point I figure I�ll likely try and find an F2 rim cheap, get it powder-coated to match the front, and call it a day. I realize the mismatched rims might irritate some of the more ana(ahem-I mean) detail oriented folks on this board, but I don�t think I�d be all that bothered. wink.gif
I'm enjoying your write-up, and looking forward to seeing the completed product! One question though, is the YZF stem already the right diameter for the VFR bearing or does it have to be turned down?
Hey AndrewNS! (Good to hear from a fellow bluenoser! Is it just me, or are Canucks widely over-represented on this board? I�m originally from Halifax�) Glad to hear you�re enjoying the write-up. The YZF stem is indeed the right diameter (same as the VFR) and requires no machining. You can use a standard tapered steering head bearing kit for the VFR, press the lower bearing onto the YZF stem, and be on your way. There is a slight difference in stem length, but nothing that can�t be easily worked around. This is the one advantage the YZF swap has over the more common F2/F3 swap (there are a couple of disadvantages too, but I�ll get into that later). Sorry to leave you in suspense, but you�ll just have to stay tuned�.
Now that everything is torn apart, time for some pics of the new hardware:
[image: user posted image] Fancy new (canyon) dancing shoes... YZF wheel left: Larger, fully floating rotors and modern 17 inch radial tire! (mmmm, Rennsport, yum!) VFR wheel right: Fixed rotors and 16 inch bias-ply tire
[image: user posted image] YZF upper triple top; VFR upper triple bottom Note change in offset between two triples.
[image: user posted image] YZF fork top, VFR fork bottom Note the YZF fork (41mm diameter) has a slightly shorter free length than the VFR fork leg (37mm). It's also a cartridge fork with full adjustability. Racetec springs have been fitted to suit my weight/riding style.
Now that you�ve managed to fit the new bearing races to the VFR steering head, you can slide the YZF stem into place. Yamaha uses a slightly different strategy with its steering head retaining nuts than Honda. Here�s the rundown: You�ll fit the dust seal over top of the upper bearing then the stem adjustment nut. Yamaha then fits a rubber washer, then the stem locknut. Finally, a retaining washer (w/tabs that fit into the �grooves� of the nuts) sits over top of the whole assembly. You can then Fit the Upper fork bridge, another washer and the stem nut to top it all off. In my case, when the lower bearing was pressed onto the YZF stem, the machine shop wasn�t able to get it to bottom out completely on the stem, meaning its sitting maybe 1/8� higher on the stem then it should ideally be. As a result, I had to do without the rubber washer in the stem retaining assembly, and the washer just below the stem nut so that I could get the stem nut to thread onto the stem. As it stands now, the stem nut threads onto the stem fine, and I don�t expect the elimination of the two washers to cause any major problems. If you have better luck fitting the lower bearing to the YZF stem, you�ll likely have room for the washers.
[image: user posted image] Sorry about the blurry image!
And here a photo of it assembled for a test fit.
[image: user posted image] Stem nut closeup Here you can see the stem nut and lock nut. The rubber washer that is normally sits between the two on the stock YZF has been removed in this application. You can also see the tight clearance between the VFR steering lock bracketing and the ignition barrel mount on the YZF upper. An alternative mounting point for the ignition barrell is required for this swap.
Anybody have any ideas on an easy way to get rid of that fugly sticker on the fork leg? It won�t peel off (they sure don�t want them state inspection stickers to come off!) and I don�t want to damage the chrome on the fork, but it is an eyesore!
And finally, here�s a pic of the new fork legs and wheel installed.
[image: user posted image] Test fit of new wheel and fork
[image: user posted image] handlebar mockup New view from the cockpit
Pegasus, Feb 5 2006, 05:25 PMAn alternative mounting point for the ignition barrell is required for this swap.
So - where are you going to mount it ? I had considered a pair of Ducati ti-nitride forks on my '99, but decided against it due to the lack of an ignition mount.
Pegasus, Feb 5 2006, 11:25 AMAnybody have any ideas on an easy way to get rid of that fugly sticker on the fork leg? It won�t peel off (they sure don�t want them state inspection stickers to come off!) and I don�t want to damage the chrome on the fork, but it is an eyesore
A razorblade works wonders on stickers. If you're worried about scratching, old credit cards or the like (stiff plastic with a good edge) works well enough. Another method would be to oil the sticker up (any oil will do) and use some 0000 steel wool on it. This will not scratch any chrome, and has the side benefit of removing any rust spots on the chrome... smile.gif
Viffed, Feb 5 2006, 08:18 PMA razorblade works wonders on stickers. If you're worried about scratching, old credit cards or the like (stiff plastic with a good edge) works well enough. Another method would be to oil the sticker up (any oil will do) and use some 0000 steel wool on it. This will not scratch any chrome, and has the side benefit of removing any rust spots on the chrome... smile.gif
Chris
Acetone, nail polish remover, and maybe even paint thinner wil remove those with ease, just soak a rag, and then apply like a compress for a minute; you'll be able to remove it with your fingernail or plastic card. Be careful with that stuff around your bodywork though!!
Pegasus, Feb 5 2006, 09:55 AMI still think the F2 front/rear combo is the cleanest looking swap, but I am really looking forward to the YZF�s brakes, which promise to be even a step beyond the F2�s more than sufficient set-up. I am curious to find out how you lengthened the stock rear shock � did you do it yourself, or did you have a suspension shop handle it? I also really like the Hawk GT bars � I�m also pondering if I�d like to try and find a higher set of bars that might work with this swap (FZ6, maybe?).
Yeah, I rode a YZF6 and was really impressed by the Yamaha MonoBloc calipers. Very progressive and lots of feedback.
The rear shock I had lengthened by Chuck Crites of Cobalt Racing. He doesn't have much presence on the web these days, but he does trade some fibreglass bodywork for 1st gen Vfr's on EBAY, username vfrchuck.
Basically, he sawed off the lower shock mount bracket and welded on a 5/8" extension piece. Nothing a talented (local) welder couldn't handle really. I'd trust someone who welds pressure pipe for a living.
I�ve installed all the controls and pods back onto the Yamaha bars.
A note about the Handle bars: I�m using YZF600R Heli-bars. The stock YZF handlebars will have you pinching your finders against the tank before you hit the steering stops. With the Heli-bars, it's still tight, but it�s enough to make a difference.
[image: user posted image] Heli-bars vs stock YZF bars
Since the locating holes on the Heli-bars are set up for the YZF controls, you either have to drill new locating holes in the bars to suit the Honda throttle assembly and left bar switch pod, or modify the locating pins. I chose to bend/file off the mounting pins, since it was quick and easy. This does give you the advantage to being able position to the pods to suit, but there�s now the chance of the throttle assembly rotating on the bar unless you have the screws well cinched down.
Once the controls were mounted I did some clearance checking.
Doh! Both the clutch lever and brake levers make contact with the edges of the instrument cluster before full lock. Hmm. May have to play around a bit with this. I have yet to finalize the control positioning, so I�m not sure yet if I can work around it. As it stands, it doesn�t limit steering lock much, but I won�t know how much of a pain it will be until test riding time.
[image: user posted image] Clearance issue!
Note: This likely wouldn�t be a problem if you were making this mod to a track only bike (since you wouldn�t have the instrument cluster).
I�ve noticed that if you play around with the clip-on height, you can improve the clearance situation. If you move the clip-ons up � inch, you gain clearance. idea3.gif Maybe some spacers, or bar risers are in order? I�ll let you know what I find out. I then moved on to the brakes. Master cylinder mounted up and calipers on? Check. Brake lines? I decided to go the Goodridge Stainless steel route (two-line set-up). Did a test fitting and�.what�s this? Banjo fittings on the calipers won�t clear the upper caliper mount on the fork leg? Eh? Argghh! My local powersports dealer went and sold me the brake line kit for an R6, even though I made them double check the part numbers to make sure they didn�t! pissed.gif The R6 and YZF600 calipers are both the monobloc variety, but the R6 has the banjo mounting on the side of the caliper, while the YZF has its banjo mounting on the top of the caliper. Thus, the angles on the banjo fittings are different (R6 uses straight banjos, YZF uses angled), and the brake line kits are NOT interchangeable! (I think the line lengths may be slightly different too).
With progress on the brakes halted pending arrival of the proper lines, I decided to tackle the eyesore of a sticker on the fork tube. Sure enough, a razor blade scraper made quick work of the sticker, and some Acetone cleaned up the remaining glue residue! Thanks for the suggestions guys! beer.gif
I also played around a bit with where I intended to mount the ignition barrel, since the Honda barrel wont bolt up to the Yamaha upper triple. (The bolt spacing, and depth is all wrong). If you had a billet or aftermarket upper triple, I imagine you could likely machine down the barrel mount, re-tap and make it work, but I�m not sure how the cheap cast alloy OEM upper triple would react to this. I pretty much figured I�d have to give up the steering lock with this swap, so I just needed a place to mount the ignition barrel that was reasonable accessible and didn�t interfere with the steering. I�ve tentatively settled on this location.
[image: user posted image] Ignition mount view from left
[image: user posted image] Ignition mounting - close-up
[image: user posted image] Ignition mount - zip tied to the traingulated fairing bracket
We�ll see how it all works once the upper fairing is remounted and the brake lines are run. I�ll note that there won�t be much room for big key fobs here��not a big issue for me. Not as easily accessible as the stock location, but there is enough room for you to easily get your hand in there.
So here�s how it stands for the moment (although that sticker HAS been removed):
[image: user posted image] Controls and calipers mounted; brake lines to come.....
After much difficulty and delay in getting the proper Goodridge lines (thanks to my local stealership), I finally did what I should have done in the first place: buy a brake line kit off of E-pay and be done with it. I ended up getting a Galfer kit, which I am pleased with. I had originally intended to go Galfer, since they still list a clutch line for the �86-�87 VFRs which will allow me to eventually match the clutch line to the new brake lines. (I was told I�d have to go custom if I went through Goodridge). Not really a big deal, but it makes my life easier�. With brake lines in hand, the brake system went together with no real surprises. Bleeding the system was another matter entirely pissed.gif . I used a miti-vac system to help pull fluid through the new system, but eventually resorted to the old pump lever/crack bleeder method to remove the last of the air bubbles. I�ll save anyone who does this a lot of time and frustration: Be sure to bleed the banjo connections at the master cylinder first, then the banjos at the calipers, then finally the bleed nipples themselves. With the banjos bled, I finally had lever feel, and torqued everything down to spec. In an earlier post I eluded to some slight clearance issues at full lock between the brake and clutch levers and the VFRs instrument pod. After some thought, and considerable time spent aimlessly wandering around the aisles of my local Lowes (a pastime I enjoy only slightly less than motorcycling goofy.gif ) I managed to scrounge together about $6 of hardware to put together my own homemade set of handlebar risers. All there really is to it are a couple of longer than stock allen head bolts (the ones that bolt the clip ons to the upper triple), and a couple of �� spacers. The spacers are simply placed under the longer than stock clip-on hold down bolt, giving you a �� rise in the bars. The astute will already have noticed in the picture that I have the fork caps dropped slightly below the top of the clip-ons about ��. I have yet to settle on the height of the forks in the triples, so in the event I decide to drop the front end another ��, it will bring the tubes flush with the top of the clip-ons. It might currently look a touch ghetto, but it has solved the clearance problems, and it cost considerably less than a set of Genmar risers.
[image: user posted image] Ghetto bar risers: 1/2 inch spacers under clip on hold down
Next on the to-do list was to deal with all the routing of all the wiring around the steering head to ensure that nothing interfered or got caught up in the course of turning lock to lock. You can mount up the YZF horn assembly if you have it (simplest), but modifying the VFR horn and bracket to fit is pretty simple.
[image: user posted image] Horn mounting and brake line routing.
I also fit the bicycle speedometer that I�ll be using to keep an eye on my velocity. While the YZF does have a wheel driven speedo, I�m not sure what would be involved in getting it to work with the VFR gauges (a custom speedo line, perhaps). Regardless, this (cheap) solution will give me a speedo and tripmeter function (as well as a clock and a few other functions) with the big drawback being the lack of a backlight, so I�ll have to rely on my tach to gauge my speed on night runs. Here�s where it mounts:
[image: user posted image] Bicycle Speedo
And finally (tadaa!), here�s a couple of pics of the (mostly) finished product. The lower fairings will remain off until I�ve settled on the height of the forks in the triples.
[image: user posted image] Completed front end.
[image: user posted image] Front view - Opinions on the black fender?
And tomorrow, a recheck of all critical fasteners, and time for the first (careful!) test ride. Impressions to follow�. wheel.gif
What do y'all think of the black fender? My original plan was to paint it as close a match as possible to the pearl white.... but the black fender looks better than I thought it would - maybe because there's a fair amount of black on the front of the bike already (windscreen)? Should I follow Veefer800Canucks lead and run the fender as is? beer.gif It's pretty tough to tell how it'll look until I get the fairings put back on, but any preliminary thoughts/opinions/suggestions? Figuring I'd get the front wheel powdercoated white (as original)....or maybe get both rims powdercoated something like "smoke chrome" fing02.gif as seen in this thread:
Part 2 of Frankenviffer: 1st gen style ("Giving my baby more Back") is slowly coming together. The UPS man has been very nice to me as of late and has been leaving large packages on my doorstep, including...
this...
[image: user posted image] '90 CBR1000F rim w/180 tire
Innat sexy!? cool.gif
and these!
[image: user posted image] Shock options: CBRF stock shock (left), Fox TC F3 shock (right)
Still a bunch of detail stuff to get sorted out, but hope to get started on the rear in the next couple of months....or shortly after I get the front end settled and sorted.
I've really enjoyed following this thread...I've read about this stuff elsewhere, but the pictures really bring things to life! Thanks for sharing it with us.
Now I'm really curious, though. I thought the 86 shock was sort of a special item, and that there weren't many others that could substitute for it. Are you saying that you can swap in an F3 shock? It would be great if you could, but I didn't know that that would work.
Now I'm really curious, though. I thought the 86 shock was sort of a special item, and that there weren't many others that could substitute for it.
Hey AndrewNS, good catch. You're right, the rear shocks (in particular the '86) is hard to swap out because of their length - they are very short compared to more modern shocks. In addition, the VFR uses a clevis style lower mount (as on the CBR shock), whereas most newer shocks do not (they use the lower mount style shown on the Fox shock). As you've heard, and from what I can see, we have next to no options when it comes to swapping in newer OEM shocks. sad.gif
I'll lay out what I've managed to gather so far about the rear shock situation - let me know if you've heard any different or if you know of any other options!
From what I've gathered the length of the VFR shocks are:
'86 VFR750/700: 10.63" '87 VFR700: 11.0"
I've also heard that increasing the shock length anywhere from .5" to .75" will put your rear ride height in the ballpark to compensate for going from the stock 18" rear wheel to a modern 17" rim.
After some searching around, I found a site that mentioned that the old CBR1kF shocks were about 11.5" long and had the typical (for Honda at that time) clevis lower mount, so when one turned up on E-pay for cheap, I decided to grab it to see for myself. The reality of the CBR shock isn't quite so rosy - my measurements put the shock length at about 11 7/8". In other words, a bit on the long side for the '87's and way too long for the '86's. I won't know for sure though until I measure the stock '87 shock to confirm its measurements. I also don't know if the shock will physically mount up to the VFR - I don't know if there is clearance near the upper shock mount for the damping adjuster on the CBR shock (the VFR doesnt have this). Not to mention I have no idea if the stock spring rate on the CBR shock is anywhere near compatible with the VFRs set-up. These are a few of the "details" that needed "sorting" that I'd mentioned. laugh.gif It's starting to look like my hopes of a cheap, near bolt-up solution may not be found in this CBR shock....
My back-up plan (option 2) is the more tried and true Fox twin clicker racing shock - it's height-adjustable, and intended for the F3, so it's close to the right length for the application (at about 11" as currently set-up), but I've still got to convert it to a clevis mount (Fox used to make a clevis adapter, but I have to track one down) and source the right spring for my application. A few folks on the first gen VFR list run this shock with good results. Adding the clevis mount should add about 1/2" to the length of the shock, bringing it right into range for my application (for the '87), or so I hope!
Are you saying that you can swap in an F3 shock?
Unfortunately not, since the stock F3 shock doesn't have the lower clevis mount. But, the F3 shock length is in the ballpark, so an aftermarket F3 shock, converted to a clevis mount and sprung to suit could work.
As you can tell, I still have a few details to get sorted..... laugh.gif
Do me a favor though and buff out your switch pods!
laugh.gif Yeah, they are a bit of an eyesore aren't they? They are really the only part of the bike that shows any sun damage, so I was thinking of maybe trying to swap in some pods off a newer bike, unless someone can suggest a way for me to restore them to their original dark grey/black. Anybody know of any products that can be used to restore sun-faded plastics?
Note, on Ebay now. RC30 exhaust system, sweet for your year.
Thanks for the heads up Larry. It'd be a nice system, but I don't think the the RC30 system will bolt up to my '87. Besides, it's pretty pricey, and I'm about as cheap as they come biggrin.gif
Works Performance still produces an aftermarket shock for that bike. Why not go with them?
Going to a 17 inch rear wheel from the stock 18 will effectively lower the rear of the bike. In order to regain the original geometry, I'll need a longer than OEM shock to make up the difference. Works is a good option for a factory replacement shock (Hagon also still builds one for our VFRs I think) but they don't list a height adjustable model for the VFR. They might potentially do a custom job, but they are already kinda pricey and for not much more than the prices they list, I could order up a custom Penske beer.gif Both options are a bit on the spendy side for this budget build, so I'm likely going to try and adapt the used Fox shock for the purpose and see how it works.
Salty42, Mar 9 2006, 12:00 PMCouldn't you lower the front end equally to make up for the height lost in the rear?? By sliding the fork tubes up more in the triples???
You could but you'd lose precious clearance and sacrifice stability under certain conditions... not really the best option, if you ask me (which, admittedly, nobody did smile.gif )
Oh, and hello. This is my first post. I'll post an intro in the noob section tonight.
asteele2, Mar 10 2006, 09:33 AMYou could but you'd lose precious clearance and sacrifice stability under certain conditions... not really the best option, if you ask me (which, admittedly, nobody did smile.gif )
Oh, and hello. This is my first post. I'll post an intro in the noob section tonight.
enzed_viffer, Mar 9 2006, 04:35 PMI'll ask you. What's the best option? By the way - welcome to VFRD. wheel.gif
Thanks smile.gif
For a long time I was dead set on getting a set of custom triple trees made up to use RC51 forks... then I realized I was never going to have an extra grand lying around just to play with at the machinist's. There's another thread floating around here about fitting those RC forks onto an early 90's VFR - I've looked at a few diagrams and the whole front setup from the 700 to the next generation 750 is very similar. You'd have to sit down with a measuring tape between the two bikes, but it may be possible to do the same conversion (using a mix of RC lower triple and [IIRC] 929 upper clamp [because of it's sloping downward gullwing design]) on these old beasts.
For a reasonable budget, though, this particular YZF conversion is the best option I've seen.
Out back I think the jury is still, well, out. The Fox Twin Clicker was probably the coolest thing we had going for us - right up until Fox said "no more." The only real reason to swtich wheels to the 17", though. is for the tire options... which, I think, realistically most of us don't need. I'm doing just fine on my Bias Ply 130. Don't get my wrong, I'd love the bling factor of a nice, fat 160, but I know I'm not good enough of a rider to need it. If you're hellbent on doing it then you might as well just go do it right the first time and get a custom height adjustable shock made. You'll be able to dial in just the right height (even when you switch tires) and not be limited to a permenant "extension" the way welding an extra piece in would make it.
Bringing this bike up to date is no small task. I've got one myself and it's starting to look like it would be cheaper to meet my goals for the project by just buying newer bike.... but that just wouldn't be as fun, would it? :-D
asteele2, Mar 10 2006, 01:23 AM... it would be cheaper to meet my goals for the project by just buying newer bike.... but that just wouldn't be as fun, would it? :-D
Hell to the NO. That's why a lot of us are here...
I think the black fender will probably work. I like the idea of a bit of gold on the wheels, but in reality theres probably a decent chance of it being overkill. Anyway, nice job with the swap and with this thread, you've got me reeally tempted to do this to my '86. Those brakes look awesome.
QUOTE(asteele2 @ Mar 10 2006, 01:23 AM) ... it would be cheaper to meet my goals for the project by just buying newer bike.... but that just wouldn't be as fun, would it? :-D
Hell to the NO. That's why a lot of us are here...
I'll +1.gif to that! Considering the cost of the conversion project, you have to have a soft spot for the first gen VFR's to financially justify it. For not much more you could likely track down a well used third or fourth gen complete with factory radials! But then, what fun would that be. goofy.gif
I think the black fender will probably work. I like the idea of a bit of gold on the wheels, but in reality theres probably a decent chance of it being overkill. Anyway, nice job with the swap and with this thread, you've got me reeally tempted to do this to my '86. Those brakes look awesome.
That's a good point. If I was to go gold it would have to be pretty subtle (almost a bronzish? - kind of like some of the red 3rd gens...). I'm thinking I'll most likely go with getting the front rim powdercoated white to match the CBR rear wheel I hope to fit, since it's in really nice shape. I'm also thinking I'll keep the front fender as is for the mean time - I can always Krylon Fusion it the closest match they have if I change my mind.
I've only had the time to put about 50 miles on the conversion so far, but so far I'm really pleased. I haven't had the chance yet to set up the suspension (hope to set sag etc... this weekend) but I'm already really impressed by the front suspensions compliance and behaviour over rough pavement compared to the stock (unmodified) front end. First impressions are that the brakes are superb. Tons of feel and more power than I know what to do with. Takes a bit of adjustment to adapt to the direct response afforded by the steel lines - they are almost a bit of overkill for the street . Needless to say, the hamfisted need not apply laugh.gif
Finally got a chance to snap some pics of Pegasus completely reassembled. Here she is with lowers on, new seat cover (black to match the front fender) and repainted Yosh. Still tickled with the conversion, but my schedule for the past month hasn't cooperated in allowing me to put many miles on it. This is going to change though, since I'm putting the ole girl back into commuting duty because of gas prices pissed.gif
(Sorry about the crappy lighting conditions...)
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Having been off the bike for a couple of months made me realize today while riding how loud my Yosh slip-on really is. Anybody happen to have a set of decent stock pipes to fit an '87 sitting around they'd like rid of? idea3.gif Send me a PM if you do!
Thats all really good except the black front fender in my opinion. Check out Murphy (Safe-T's bike); all pearl white & looks really handsome. It is a tough call to match the colour I know.
Having been off the bike for a couple of months made me realize today while riding how loud my Yosh slip-on really is. Anybody happen to have a set of decent stock pipes to fit an '87 sitting around they'd like rid of? idea3.gif Send me a PM if you do!
Pegasus, Mar 6 2006, 07:59 PM laugh.gif Yeah, they are a bit of an eyesore aren't they? They are really the only part of the bike that shows any sun damage, so I was thinking of maybe trying to swap in some pods off a newer bike, unless someone can suggest a way for me to restore them to their original dark grey/black. Anybody know of any products that can be used to restore sun-faded plastics?
You might try some buffing compound on them. I have restored some plastic to look almost new with it, but I have never attempted black plastic that had turned grey. If you do go that route good luck getting much to stick to it afterwards, though. Good buffing compounds (big 3M Finesse It Finishing Material fan here) are made of petroleum based mixtures and will keep the plastic from holding onto paint. You can clean it with lots of laquer thinner, but that is not a lot of fun.
Another option is to try some black wax. I hate it, but it might work in you case.
I would stray from painting plastic that was not painted before. I think it is the texture left on plastic that was not meant to be painted that makes it always look like painted plastic. But to each his own. beer.gif
Great work on the bike. Those pods show how much work has gone into her. You could always leave them for last. goofy.gif
I have really enjoyed this thread and threads like this. You may have set the bar, when I get a chance to do this type of project to my bike.
It's still sitting in my living room. goofy.gif (Don't laugh, it's one of my nicer pieces of furniture!)
Progress on the rear end has been temporaily postponed pending time, fundage and a place to work on it. Not all bad news though - I am planning on moving to a new place this summer that has a garage fing02.gif . And I have managed to confirm that this rim CAN be fitted to the rear of my VFR, but it will require some machining of the rear sprocket hub. (Thanks to brit VFR owner Dez of Desawa racing for the specifics!). So I'm currently hunting around for a good machining shop with a giant lathe so that I can see how costly an endeavor this might be. I have most of the rest of the hardware sorted for the swap though, so as soon as I get some time I'm planning on getting back into it!
You might try some buffing compound on them. I have restored some plastic to look almost new with it, but I have never attempted black plastic that had turned grey. If you do go that route good luck getting much to stick to it afterwards, though. Good buffing compounds (big 3M Finesse It Finishing Material fan here) are made of petroleum based mixtures and will keep the plastic from holding onto paint. You can clean it with lots of laquer thinner, but that is not a lot of fun.
Another option is to try some black wax. I hate it, but it might work in you case.
Hey Chev - thanks for the ideas. Definitely worth a shot before resorting to replacing the pods themselves! Glad you like the bike - if you've got even the slightest hankering to do a swap like this to your bike you're in the right place! The members on this board have put together some seriously impressive swaps and are a very friendly, resourceful crew. Hang around here, and it won't be long before you're tearing your perfectly functional motorcycle into bits and pieces biggrin.gif Welcome to modaholics anonymous.....
I just got this. I don't really know about glass impregnated nylon stuff.......it was titled Black plastic restoring, so this may be a better approach.
Keith Williams, SABMAG @ Apr 24 2006, 08:22 AMI just got thru going over all the glass impregnated nylon stuff on the maggot as well as wife's turn signal and wiper control on her car. I am not sure if I ever mentioned that stuff before, but it is called Super Penetrol by Flood co. and is intended to refurbish faded gel coat on boats and is available in any good boat supply store or chandlery. I was also restoring the faded blue paint on my motorbike engine for when I get my frame from the powdercoater for a bike and rod show coming up. It looks like new again. Paint formulation doesn't seem to be too swift in China.
End of thread · 49 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 29 May 2006