VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

Brakes - Rear

9 posts Started 22 Jul 2002 Last recovered post 2 Feb 2007 Wayback Machine snapshot 20 Feb 2007

#1
Changing Rear Brake Pads

Simple but you will get your hands dirty, no need to remove the caliper it is done without having to take the caliper off.

Begin by removing the padpin!

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad03.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad04.jpg)

Remove the Pad Pin using a Hex Key, mine was stuck I had to get leverage.

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad05.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad06.jpg)

Reach in and pull out the old pads

the inside pad must be removed by pulling out then up above the brake linkage arm (It is in the way) as seen in this pic.

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad14.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad07.jpg)

I had a bit of pad left but they were worn more on the stop side then on the piston side. (the bike does not have opposing pistons they have a metal stop on the other side of the caliper so the pads do not wear evenly on each side, make sure to check BOTH Pads when inspecting because of this circumstance)

See the uneven wear, the top pad is slightly thicker

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad09.jpg)

See the new one compared

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad08.jpg)

Once the old pads are removed push the caliper in and out to loosen the springs and then to compress the pistons, take off the cap to check the fluid level, this might make the level overflow be wary of fluid level, the rear resivoir is under the seat.

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad10.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad11.jpg)

My pistons were stuck so I had to get serious, this does not harm the finish one side on the bolt the other on the caliper housing, then gently screw it in till the pistons are receded all the way! If you dont push the pistons back the new pads wont go in!

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad13.jpg)

Measure the disk for thickness should be no less than 0.20 inches in thickness, if it is less replace it, the pads will not engage completely and the disk will be suseptable to heat warpage if its too thin. (As you can see mine was .229 inches.)

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad12.jpg)

When installing the new pads the inner pad must be brought down over the linkage again since it is in the way, this can be a little tricky and requires a steady hand. There is a retaining spring that the pads lock into and they must be pushed down into position in order to line up with the Padpin. reinstall the padpin and tighten, then reinstall the cap. Pump the brakes untill there is feedback pressure. Check for stopping power and see if the pistons settle into place and do not bind! Do not forget to put the fluid cap back on.

(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/brakes/pad14.jpg)

Total time 20 minutes.

This operations requires that the rear wheel be removed, which might require moving the exhaust pipe out of the way as well depending on what brand you are using and how it is mounted.
#2
How many miles were on the bike before you performed this?  I see Cycle Worlds test vfr has 9000 on the clock.  Sincerely, Moto Saipian
#3
Miles is not really the best indicator of brake wear, it can be used as a refence for when to INSPECT the pads.  Inspect the pad width by visually looking at the pad indicator grooves is what you should use to determine pad wear.  You can see the fronts sort of easy but the rear inspection might need you to take off the wheel.

The owners manual says to inspect pad wear every 4k miles.
#4
Would the rotor minimum of 0.20 inches in thickness be applicable to a '94.
#5
Steve J, Feb. 12 2004Would the rotor minimum of 0.20 inches in thickness be applicable to a '94.

5mm or 0.21" for the 94
#6
i'm having trouble interpreting the picture that shows you compressing the pistons with using a c-clamp.

where exactly are you applying pressure and how are the pistons being pushed back?
#7
H.S. THANKS...

for tip about pulling the inside pad OVER the link! I was about to start pulling the caliper apart until I checked in here. It really was a 20 minute job. Well, maybe 30 if you include the time I took to consult this HOWTO. And next time it will only be a 10 minute job.

Thanks again,
Johnny
#8
Donot forget to clean the padpin and apply some silicon grease....
#9
jameshicks, Feb 12 2004, 01:48 PMHow many miles were on the bike before you performed this? �I see Cycle Worlds test vfr has 9000 on the clock. �Sincerely, Moto Saipian


1 wore out my first rear pad set on the vfr in about 7,000 mile, I think my foot was riding on the lever, the second set has about 9,000 mile and probably in the last 20 percent of the pad, so it's doing better, I also recently adjusted my rear brake lever so my foot doesnt ride on it as easily.

That will probably aid with longevity, normally I should get like 20,000 mile out of rear set , I took the top off my rear resovior and squeezed the pistons in with my fingers during replacement, after cleaning them ofcourse.
End of thread · 9 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 20 Feb 2007