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How Could I Fill The Headlight Openings?

28 posts Started 31 Jan 2007 Last recovered post 4 Jul 2007 Wayback Machine snapshot 11 Jan 2008

#1
I might be clever when it comes to mechanic, but when it comes to bodywork, I am quite challenged.

I have an extra fairing for my bike that I want to customize for the track: close to openings for the lights and turned signal, and maybe the tail section as well.

I was thinking of some kind of metal screen?




TRAVISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Where are you?
#2
Anyone in your area plastic weld,if so from an old fairing cut a piece of plastic to the shape of you headlight opening and have it plastic welded in,minor body work to smooth out,lights just get some old scratched cheep(Ebay) lenses and pait them the fairing colour, worse case red(or thr colour of your bike)duct tape wink.gif
#3
Pull your headlights out, cover them with saran wrap, then lay a piece of fiberglass cloth over each. Once the pieces cure, trim and fit them into the cowl. fing02.gif

Kinda like the plastic tinted headlight covers for cars... and you can tape them in so you don't ruin your cowl, and you could cut shapes into them if you wanted to get fancy, then back the cutout with screen/mesh.
#4
Stéphane, Jan 31 2007, 09:17 PMI might be clever when it comes to mechanic, but when it comes to bodywork, I am quite challenged.

I have an extra fairing for my bike that I want to customize for the track: close to openings for the lights and turned signal, and maybe the tail section as well.

I was thinking of some kind of metal screen?




TRAVISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Where are you?


Here I is! Screen would work, but the bugs and debris crapped-up on the inside of your bike, agreeably, would be a PITA.

Suggestion: Take the x-tra fairing, lay in fiberglass, per the newest, "de-dumbo earing", thread. Best way to go, without re molding and, "copying", the fairings.

Hold for link, please,....................

Actually, what configuration, are you look'n for? (Street and track)?

Could do a, "face plate", to cover all, that would be removable, for the street. (Using the female mirror mounts to secure the top). You would obviously have to kill power to the lights, so you don't burn the face plate, on the track. Not sure fo the track regulations, on something like that.

More info. Hell, call me if you get the chance. (734)-649-9242.


http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28897
#5
remove upper fairing..
compleatly wrap in kitchen plastic wrap.. !! the parts should have look stock but covered,, ergo do not fill in the headlight holes... now put ducttape over the front of the holes..

now.. take 1 square yard of fiber glass mat ..or seaglass..($10) and cut in half.. fold half in half.. so you have 2 layers.. put on the inside of the fairing covering the headlight holes..

follow directions on a small can of fiberglass rosin ($8).. pour over mat.. let harden..
pop out.. trim down.. unwrap yout fairing.. install new plugs in place of heatlights..paint goofy eyeballs to intimidate wimps.
#6
SEBSPEED, Jan 31 2007, 09:28 PMPull your headlights out, cover them with saran wrap, then lay a piece of fiberglass cloth over each. Once the pieces cure, trim and fit them into the cowl. fing02.gif

Kinda like the plastic tinted headlight covers for cars... and you can tape them in so you don't ruin your cowl, and you could cut shapes into them if you wanted to get fancy, then back the cutout with screen/mesh.



NOOOOOOOO. I've done this. The chem. reaction will WIPE OUT the acrylic lenses! They shall be f#!ked, for evermore!
#7
DAMN IT!! YOU GUYS TYPE FAST!!!
i was goona have the first reply...
#8
Frrrrrretttttttttttttttttttttttt. Square one. Do you plan on removing the headlights?
#9
Rivcyko, Jan 31 2007, 09:42 PM
SEBSPEED, Jan 31 2007, 09:28 PMPull your headlights out, cover them with saran wrap, then lay a piece of fiberglass cloth over each. Once the pieces cure, trim and fit them into the cowl. fing02.gif

Kinda like the plastic tinted headlight covers for cars... and you can tape them in so you don't ruin your cowl, and you could cut shapes into them if you wanted to get fancy, then back the cutout with screen/mesh.



NOOOOOOOO. I've done this. The chem. reaction will WIPE OUT the acrylic lenses! They shall be f#!ked, for evermore!


Really? You using some kinna super-poxy?? I made a set for an F4i like that... unsure.gif

I think I used two layers of restaurant-grade plastic wrap...
#10
I guess if you want to be extra-safe, you can wrap with saran wrap(after giving the lenses a nice clean&wax), then add a layer of aluminum foil(carefully, you don't want any wrinkles or other crap like that). It's definately NOT getting through the foil, car audio shops use that method ALL THE TIME.
#11
SEBSPEED, Jan 31 2007, 09:52 PMI guess if you want to be extra-safe, you can wrap with saran wrap(after giving the lenses a nice clean&wax), then add a layer of aluminum foil(carefully, you don't want any wrinkles or other crap like that). It's definately NOT getting through the foil, car audio shops use that method ALL THE TIME.


Yes and yes. LOL.

Just got off the phone with him. It's under control. LOL.

Seb.,

I did 4 layers. STILL made a mess of things.
#12
Rivcyko, Jan 31 2007, 10:03 PMSeb.,

I did 4 layers. STILL made a mess of things.


Huh. That's wierd. Good thing I was doing the job on someone else's parts, eh? comp13.gif
#13
THanks Travis for the quick-over-the-phone-how-to.

As for the eyeballs, I was thinking of that too . . . but one thing at the time.
#14
SEBSPEED, Jan 31 2007, 10:10 PM
Rivcyko, Jan 31 2007, 10:03 PMSeb.,

I did 4 layers. STILL made a mess of things.


Huh. That's wierd. Good thing I was doing the job on someone else's parts, eh? comp13.gif


No. Cause if something goes wrong, you end-up buying the parts. LOL. I was using standard resins. comp13.gif

Any updates?
#15
Ok, here's the first update . . . in the question department. If you look at the picture, there is a crack where the guy glued the pieces together. If I put pressure on it, it opens. [image: gallery_4229_2149_492795.jpg]How do I fix that?
#16
[quote name='Stéphane' date='Mar 10 2007, 08:00 PM' post='364231']
Ok, here's the first update . . . in the question department. If you look at the picture, there is a crack where the guy glued the pieces together. If I put pressure on it, it opens. [image: gallery_4229_2149_492795.jpg]How do I fix that?
[/quote
find some broken body work and cut it to size for fitment on the back side, go to an automotive paint supplier and get a sems plastic bulmper repair epoxy, this stuff works, period. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS.

I slid on my right side fairing where it made about an inch diameter hole, I had a fairing for parts and made the repairs. I then used sems like bondo to cover the resulting edges.
#17
Stéphane, Mar 10 2007, 08:00 PMOk, here's the first update . . . in the question department. If you look at the picture, there is a crack where the guy glued the pieces together. If I put pressure on it, it opens. [image: gallery_4229_2149_492795.jpg]How do I fix that?

Use PVC cement (or any cement that works on ABS plastic) to weld it together. The repair is just as strong as the original part.
#18
jeremy556, Mar 10 2007, 09:52 PM
Stéphane, Mar 10 2007, 08:00 PMOk, here's the first update . . . in the question department. If you look at the picture, there is a crack where the guy glued the pieces together. If I put pressure on it, it opens. [image: gallery_4229_2149_492795.jpg]How do I fix that?

Use PVC cement (or any cement that works on ABS plastic) to weld it together. The repair is just as strong as the original part.


Does anyone know where you can get track plastic for these bikes?

Thanks...
#19
Love2Ride, Mar 13 2007, 08:25 PMDoes anyone know where you can get track plastic for these bikes?

Thanks...

I have never heard of anyone producing race glass for VFRs in the last decade...
#20
Ok, here's what I have done so far!

[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_15565.jpg]
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_235219.jpg]
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_60786.jpg]

So Trav,

I didn't want to high jack your thread, but you sure gave me the idea.

Now, should I just put a black screen (door screen) in front of it, or what would you suggest?

I am going to use the epoxy idea to hold the chicken wire in place, but I am sure one could find a way to make it removable.
#21
Aluminum window screen mesh might conform a little better, and it would be easier to epoxy in. You could even put one layer of 'glass mat on top of or behind the screen...
#22
Interesting. Were you look'n to keep the area, "open", for air flow? Leaving it open, (Just screening), would be lighter than glassing it over,......but glassing it over, would give much less wind drag, from the fairing wanting to, "poof-out". I agree with Seb. A finer mesh screen ought to work really well, and perhaps, split the difference of wind drag. If it drags too much, you can always add a single layer of glass, later.

Hmmm. comp13.gif
#23
I am not the most comfortable guy with fiberglass, so I'll give a try to aluminum meshing. If it works, then I'll see what I can do.

Thanks Trav and Seb.

SG
#24
If you decide that you do want to glass it, we'll hook you up. fing02.gif
#25
Rivcyko, Jul 4 2007, 12:28 PMIf you decide that you do want to glass it, we'll hook you up. fing02.gif


fing02.gif beer.gif
#26
If you plan to track the Viffer often, I would buy a used upper and make a permanent race upper out of it with filled H/L holes.
fing02.gif
#27
St�phane, Jul 3 2007, 07:19 PMOk, here's what I have done so far!

[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_15565.jpg]
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_235219.jpg]
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_60786.jpg]


And with the aluminum screen. I followed the direction from Rivcyko post Easy, Breezy, Beautiful

Here's where I applied the epoxy.
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_405012.jpg]

Close look.
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_759300.jpg]

And at a distance.
[image: med_gallery_4229_2149_1059245.jpg]
#28
Great contours! Me likey!!!!!!!!! fing02.gif Looks tight. SWEET!
End of thread · 28 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 11 Jan 2008