Quite a while back, I bought some Kisan vecrtoLights from a member here at VFRD. They were nifty little lights that attached to the bottom of your mirrors. They acted as a second pair of running lights, as well as brakes lights and turn signals. They worked really well and I got a lot of comments on them.
Then sometime last fall, my right mirror got snapped off. It was at this point I decide to try out a set of aftermarket mirrors made by Thurn Motorsports. I've seen the mirrors on ebay a few times and decided the quality looked fairly decent. Huge mistake. I have to say that these mirrors are absolute crap! [image: 177.gif]
The problem with the Thurn mirrors was the ball-and-socket joint was way too loose. Only after a few minutes of riding on the freeway, the mirrors would fold inward from the force of the wind. Even large bumps would knock the mirrors down. Even though the looks of the mirror eventually grew on me, I hated them. I tried tightening the socket joint up, but I ended up breaking the plastic on both sides. <_<
One good thing did come out of my purchase of the Thurn mirrors, and that would be the mirror mounts. As you can see in the picture above, the mounts provide a nice flat mounting area. And that's when it hit me... GSXR mirrors!! :goofy:
As you can see, the GSXR mirrors require a flatter surface to mount to than does our VFR. So, I figure I could remove the mounts from the GSXR mirrors and then bolt the mirror stocks directly to the Thurn mounts.
After taken the little caps off the GSXR mirrors, I notice the mirrors used a hollow rivet to secure them to the mounting bolts. A few moments later, I'm using my power drill to drill out the rivets. It's also worth to note that the Thurn mounts don't use a standard or metric thread pitch. The bolt guru at my local hardware store said that it's some kind of special pitch only found on motorcycles and that I would have to special order the bolts. Hmm...no thanks; I've been dying to try out my new tap and die set. :P I ended up drilling the Thurn mounts out with a 3/8" bit and then tapping it to 7/16".
I end up running the wires from the mirrors through a tiny notch in the mirror stock down on the end. The notch is where those little caps snap into. I figured that once I get everything torque down, I can secure the caps down with a sealant instead of snapping them back into place. I also had the grind down the head of the 7/16" bolt I used to mount the mirrors. The caps don't offer much room underneath them. I end up sticking the bolt into my drill and then spinning it on a metal file.
Compare to the Thurn mirrors, the new GSXR mirrors are sharp!! And I thought I'd reinstall the stock mirror just to see a comparison.
Good write-up and pix. I've watched a few gixxer mirrors go pretty cheap on fleabay, if i ever get rid of the dumbo ears on my Klingon I'll be going for these sort of mirrors.
Hurricane249You put parts from a stinky inline 4 on a V4 bike? BLA will have a stroke but I think they look great and I bet a lot of people copy that mod. :beer:
Everytime I saw a Gixxer in a dealership I wondered if somebody here would attempt this mod...glad I waited and didn't get the Thurns...this one is definitely worth doing. Travis (Rivcyko), are you listening? :lol:
wirelesswill:thumbsup:
Man that is sweet!!! Glad I read this... was considering the Thurn mirrors. Not anymore smile.gif
SPeaking of Fixer - where is the Bastage? I thought he would be all over this one - his effects of getting a Stinky Inline 4 will resonate for years to come... MErcy - BLA must be having convulsions about mixing stock parts from an I4 onto a V4 bike...... :joystick:
great, you f'n beat me to it. broke a mirror on my 98 and since i didnt want to deal with a company from across the pond, i decided to retro fit a pair from a gixxr...I am just waiting for them to arrive, i'm sure that since the seller charged 20bucks that they are going to send them snailmail...will post pics once they are on and ready
xeroxgreat, you f'n beat me to it. broke a mirror on my 98 and since i didnt want to deal with a company from across the pond, i decided to retro fit a pair from a gixxr...I am just waiting for them to arrive, i'm sure that since the seller charged 20bucks that they are going to send them snailmail...will post pics once they are on and ready
Be sure to do a major "how to". I bet a lot of 5th Genners will be very interested.
diditLooks great. How is the visibilty to the rear? Just received my Lobster extenders and wanting to do the Rivcyko LED trick, but I have
always liked the idea of the mirror signals. Wiring? Just simple inline splicing or some other trickery.
Now you can swap out the lower lights for engine vents +1.gif
Visibility to the rear is similar to stock; the mirrors stick out about as far.
Wiring wasn’t too bad. Just tapped into the wires from the lower lights. I wired the mirrors so they act as running lights, but when I hit the turn signal, they turn off and on in time with the regular turn signals. All you need to do is just ground the lights with the turn signal wires.
Yeah, turning the lower lights into ram air vents has crossed my mind. :beer:
well. I dont want to bite your thread, but I got my carbon look gsxr mirrors in yesterday, and well, to say the least, they aren't going on as easy as yours did for a 5th gen. oh, and the the wireing was the easy part. since i needed mirrors badly, I used the stock mounts and some bolts to secure them for a temp fix, but it looks like "monster Garage" not too ugly, but not smooth either. the wiring is 2 wire on the mirrors and 3 wire on the bike. very simple to solve, use i diode on both of the wires9 running and turn signal, and there you have it. I am getting some plexi next wekk, and I am going to make some better mounts( maybe even relocate my foglamps too) once I get it all cleaned up, I will def post it up. right now the mirrors are too high up, they need to be angled down to look better/be wider. oh well, it beats a broken mirror!!
You have inspired me. I have seen the GSXR mirrors before and wondered if they could be mounted. And since I just found a pair for $61 after shipping off eBay you can pat yourself on the back for said inspiration. :thumbsup: I have Lobster's extenders but I plan on doing some drilling where necessary to make this work.
I really need to quit reading all these posts...I spend way too much money on "upgrades". :idea3:
xeroxwell. I dont want to bite your thread, but I got my carbon look gsxr mirrors in yesterday, and well, to say the least, they aren't going on as easy as yours did for a 5th gen. oh, and the the wireing was the easy part. since i needed mirrors badly, I used the stock mounts and some bolts to secure them for a temp fix, but it looks like "monster Garage" not too ugly, but not smooth either. the wiring is 2 wire on the mirrors and 3 wire on the bike. very simple to solve, use i diode on both of the wires9 running and turn signal, and there you have it. I am getting some plexi next wekk, and I am going to make some better mounts( maybe even relocate my foglamps too) once I get it all cleaned up, I will def post it up. right now the mirrors are too high up, they need to be angled down to look better/be wider. oh well, it beats a broken mirror!!
I'm very interested too..post up some pics, maybe we can get BLS to machine up some adapters/extenders to mount them nicely. Can use my bike as model..
Doh! I just got my GSXR mirrors in today and missed a mighty important detail. The mounts bolt downwards where the VFR's mounts side ways. :o Thus the use of the Thurn mounting kit making it easy for Darth Bling. Oh, the road to wisdom is a long one. No worries though, I have a ME buddy whom I think would be able to make a mount in no time for the right price. :salesman:
If the mount turns out well, I'd be interested and help defray the cost if you'd consider producing a 2nd set. I've been thinking about doing this mod as well. Ron
vanion2Doh! I just got my GSXR mirrors in today and missed a mighty important detail. The mounts bolt downwards where the VFR's mounts side ways. :o Thus the use of the Thurn mounting kit making it easy for Darth Bling. Oh, the road to wisdom is a long one. No worries though, I have a ME buddy whom I think would be able to make a mount in no time for the right price. :salesman:
I've been sitting on my set of Gixxer mirrors for many weeks now, trying to solve the install issues.
As mentioned before, the Thurn adapter would make this mod easy as it changes the mount to a top attachment point much like the Gixxer. Could have an adapter machined up; I think that is the easy part.
What I haven't been able to figure out is what to do about the hollow rivet mount that the stock Gixxer mirror uses.
Darth Bling, your post was vague about how you solved this issue. Can you please post a close-up picture or two, or a more clear explanation? It sounds like you just replaced the rivet with a standard bolt, but where the heck does the wiring run now? I thought of making a tiny hole in the cap and running wire an inch or two to the adapter, but that seems too "monster garage", considering.
I will have to post up the pics of what I have done so far, unfortunately the Army has me in PA, and I do not have the pics here..I will be home on the 12th and will post a full report//
I will say this: I am not really picky about factory looks, and like the appeal of hand built stuff, many may not like my approach, but it works and it doubled as fog light mounts
Darth Bling, did you run the wiring through the tiny hole right BESIDE the hollow rivet? If so, how does one prevent damage to the wiring when you fold the mirrors? I can't see much there; my mirrors are still in one piece until I figure this all out......
If the mount turns out well, I'd be interested and help defray the cost if you'd consider producing a 2nd set. I've been thinking about doing this mod as well. Ron
Doh! I just got my GSXR mirrors in today and missed a mighty important detail. The mounts bolt downwards where the VFR's mounts side ways. :o Thus the use of the Thurn mounting kit making it easy for Darth Bling. Oh, the road to wisdom is a long one. No worries though, I have a ME buddy whom I think would be able to make a mount in no time for the right price. :salesman:
I will update when/if this works out.
Shhhhh....don't tell anyone but I mentioned the fact that there might be others interested in the bracket and my friend is considering that as an interesting offering depending on cost/time and such. We are both full time students and this won't be happening until the end of finals week (May 11th). If this does happen it will be a short run on definite buyers. No, I am not taking orders. I am just making anyone interested AWARE of this POSSIBLE opportunity. I will update more when we know more about what is entailed. :thumbsup:
Darth Bling, did you run the wiring through the tiny hole right BESIDE the hollow rivet? If so, how does one prevent damage to the wiring when you fold the mirrors? I can't see much there; my mirrors are still in one piece until I figure this all out......
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner...
Yes, I ran the wire through the little hole besides the hollow rivet. I enlarged the hole a bit and smoothed out the rough edges with a Dermal grounding bit. I also enlarged the hole on the Thurn mirror mounts, cut the black cover off from the wires to give the wires a bit more room, and I stuck a couple of washers in between the mirror mounts and the GSXR stocks. The mirrors can actually rotate 45° each direction without binding the wires. :thumbsup:
I've been thinking about it some, and I know there's a better way to mount the mirrors. I've got a few designs in my head that would work, but I need to get in touch with a CNC shop to find out how much it'll cost to make some custom mounts (unless vanion2 beats me too it and his friends makes some mounts). http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/wink.gif I really don't think I'll get anything done this month since I've got a lot of work to do on my bike in anticipation for my first track day in June, but there's a good chance I could get something fabbed up for wholesale by the end of the summer. :blink:
I've been thinking about it some, and I know there's a better way to mount the mirrors. I've got a few designs in my head that would work, but I need to get in touch with a CNC shop to find out how much it'll cost to make some custom mounts (unless vanion2 beats me too it and his friends makes some mounts). ;) I really don't think I'll get anything done this month since I've got a lot of work to do on my bike in anticipation for my first track day in June, but there's a good chance I could get something fabbed up for wholesale by the end of the summer. :warranty:
Whew! Good to know considering I only have a 3 week window before summer session begins and my girl and I are house hunting. :blink: You may beat me to it and I will end up on your list. :goofy: :thumbsup:
Yeah, somebody save me the trouble of having to fab my own mounts. I was at my local dealer a little while ago looking at their GSXR's to see how the mirrors mount. I thought they were set up to mount on a flat (horizontal) surface and that was confirmed by my visit.
Bump! Any updates on getting these mounts? I would like to try a set on my 97. I will try contacting Thurn to get the mounts /converion done easy...others should do the same to show Thurn we have others intrested and may be worth their time to get a few sets for us. This is the e-mail addrss I'm sending my request for a set also.
info@thurn-motorsport.de
....Group purchase..?...discount....? :thumbsup:
FYI long ago some one modified a set of BB mirrors and found out they are not long enough to see around his elbows and was not happy with his efforts even though they looked cool/just like NR mirrors. The GSXR mirrors is the way to do it to gain the same mirrior use as stock mirrors (be able to see behind your self) with the Thurn mounts to make it easy. FYI in my e-mail to Thurn I also asked if they can not help me to please let me know how to contact the makers of the mirrors to see if I can convince the makers to sell just the mounts.....others please do the same. I have a set of Y2k mirrors with mirror base extenders like these http://www.1cruiser....2_-_Current.htm
on my 97 and like the way I can see behind me. Eh Darth Bling, Can I do the same with the way you mentioned or does it bring the mirrors out just as far?
My buddy and I are going to look the bike over this coming weekend and see what we need to get a few projects done. The GSXR mirrors that have been sitting in the garage go with me and I will update when we have something in the works. He works 3 jobs and is rebuilding two Nissan 240 Sylvias for track/drifting events so finding time has been quite a challenge. :joystick:
From company, we get the mirrors from. only the mirrors completetely available.
When you will order 20 pairs of this base of mirror, we can built them for you for the Suzuki mirrors (mirror required)
kind regards
Thurn Motorsport
1) Who else will purchase them (we need 19 more)
2) Darth Bling please give us detials on the exact part of the base we will need. I think I'm wrong when I all ready asked Thurn for these. http://www.bikepics....ictures/954609/
So we can save on costs and only get what we need.
3) I all replied to Thurn asking how much they will cost (with shipping to one USA location)
4) Anyone want to be in charge of being that one location and ship them to the other 19? Since I'm not set up at work or have a easiy way to do it I would rather some one else do it.
5) I all ready asked Thurn (We can build them our self's if your saying Thurn will build them for us when we purchase of supply the GXSR mirrors. All we want it the base off them. If Thurn can not help with selling us the base only, please tell me how to contact the mirror maker to see if I can get them to try to make this cost effective)
From company, we get the mirrors from. only the mirrors completetely available.
When you will order 20 pairs of this base of mirror, we can built them for you for the Suzuki mirrors (mirror required)
kind regards
Thurn Motorsport
1) Who else will purchase them (we need 19 more)
2) Darth Bling please give us detials on the exact part of the base we will need. I think I'm wrong when I all ready asked Thurn for these. http://www.bikepics....ictures/954609/
So we can save on costs and only get what we need.
3) I all replied to Thurn asking how much they will cost (with shipping to one USA location)
4) Anyone want to be in charge of being that one location and ship them to the other 19? Since I'm not set up at work or have a easiy way to do it I would rather some one else do it.
5) I all ready asked Thurn (We can build them our self's if your saying Thurn will build them for us when we purchase of supply the GXSR mirrors. All we want it the base off them. If Thurn can not help with selling us the base only, please tell me how to contact the mirror maker to see if I can get them to try to make this cost effective)
I'm most definately interested in getting a base to make the GSX-R style mirrors work as I like the look of smoothed body work, and am also in need of a new mirror(emgo sucks, as does the 99' condom style anyhow). PLEASE lets get something figured out to make this a reasonable option. The mirrors are all over ebay for fairly reasonable cost(till' this gets out ;) ).
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Jul 7 2007, 08:13 AM, said:
2) Darth Bling please give us detials on the exact part of the base we will need. I think I'm wrong when I all ready asked Thurn for these.
Yup, those are the wrong mounts. Sorry, guys, I've been out of town for while. Just got home not too long ago and I haven't had a chance to check up on VFRD in a while. The Thurn mounts that I used work fine, but I have a design that I think is much better. I just need to find a CNC shop that's local to me to get a quote on machining these things. They'll also need to be anodized black too. As soon as I have more info, I'll post the details. (Trust me, I don't want to drag this out to BLS's lower peg block porportions) ;)
OK Darth...Hope you can get to it soon.......LOL Glad I didn't wait to lower my foot pegs :thumbsup: So far Thurn said they will help us make he proper bases...but not till late fall cause they have many projects to do before hand. I convinced Thurn to give me a way to contact the After market mirror maker to try to get them faster....but little good that will do if you say we will not need them Darth.
Bump....Should I start shopping for a good deal on a set of Gxer mirrors asap yet? :rolleyes: Darth, Please consider makeing the bases to inclued mirror base extenders like these as one or as a option to add if we want to be able to see behind us like they allow. http://www.1cruiser....3-DD3EDEAE6602}
I've been useing them for years now and can't imagin not having them on my Gen4.
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Jul 19 2007, 05:19 PM, said:
Bump....Should I start shopping for a good deal on a set of Gxer mirrors asap yet? :rolleyes: Darth, Please consider makeing the bases to inclued mirror base extenders like these as one or as a option to add if we want to be able to see behind us like they allow. http://www.1cruiser....3-DD3EDEAE6602}
I've been useing them for years now and can't imagin not having them on my Gen4.
That shouldn't be a problem when you consider the extenders a made to match the base of the VFR. I have a set of Lobster's extenders that I intend to use as well. If the adapter is made for the VFR, then the extenders should be simply plug-n-play. :)
And you can put me down for a set of adapters for a 6th Gen if/when you start making them Darth...seems my ME buddy bit off more than he can chew. <_<
Has anyone considered the ducati 1098 mirrors? These would look real wicked if they could fit.
Can't get my hands on a pair to try out though. On picture they look pretty similar other than a slight difference in mounting angles. But they seem to bolt from inside out though.
The Duck Mirrors do look kinda cool..but I think they would look odd and out of place on a VFR. This is a pic of them. http://www.automotto...i-1098-1_59.jpg
Plus they look like they are really short. Darth any progress? Anyone want to try to get a group purchase discount on the Lobster extenders?
ElementalG20, Please post or send me a PM so we or I can get a good deal on a set also if what you found works out. Or are you saying you found on a set for yourself? If so ....show off/good for you :salesman: Please post details anyways after you close the deal so we or I can get a feel on what kind of deals may be had on a set.
Darth at least post details on the parts you mentioned useable off teh ones Thurn sells. Thurn sent me details on how to contact the makers of them since they can't help us till this fall to try to allow us to get them faster.
I apologize for being a show off :) Friend of a friend has a newer GSXR and doesnt care for the mirrors for his own cosmetic reasons,(doesnt care for integrated turns WTF? :) ) But the parts he wants to change out for cost $60.....so I merely told him I'd be glad to give him $60 for his mirrors if he wants to go that route. Sounds like he does, however the deal is not yet done......I'd push for it much harder if I knew I could make this work though :)
No progress as far as I know. I think Darth is working with Busy Little Shop to reinvent the wheel on this (inside joke) Eh Darth Please update us and share the info we need to possibly make our own or to ask teh makers of the ones Thurn sold you. Every one intrested please pm/post Darth Bling to show our intrest and to get him to show us the way or details he promissed to possibly get this going. He's active on the website posting in other subjects so it's not like he's mia.
Nope, I'm still around. :) I keep finding other things to do instead of working on these mirrors. I do have the design done, I just need to get it into a suitable format for the CNC shop and then they can give me a quote.
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Aug 25 2007, 06:56 PM, said:
Bump. Darth Bling are you going to get this project done soon or post details on how we can do it our selfs?
Sorry, work been taking up all my time this last month. :( Once my hours drop back down to 40 per week instead of the 60-80 that's it's been, I'll have more time to get the mirror mounts made. Progress has been slow so far, but I've been working on it.
Any chance...please Darth you can or will you at least post some details on what is needed and let us deside if we want to wait for your offer to make them or make them our selfs or contact the maker of the original ones you found to work from Thurn?
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Aug 30 2007, 06:54 AM, said:
Any chance...please Darth you can or will you at least post some details on what is needed and let us deside if we want to wait for your offer to make them or make them our selfs or contact the maker of the original ones you found to work from Thurn?
Lol....impatient! It sounds like he CAD designed the mounts and is converting it to CNC friendly code so as to cut down time and costs. Let the man earn his living and get what little time off he gets for some sleep and riding. ;) He won't leave us hanging like some people I know *coughsmyMEbuddycoughs* :rolleyes:
And yes, I will be down for a set pending price as well. I still have my GSXR mirrors sitting on a shelf next to Trav's wheel hugger. :P
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Aug 30 2007, 06:54 AM, said:
Any chance...please Darth you can or will you at least post some details on what is needed and let us deside if we want to wait for your offer to make them or make them our selfs or contact the maker of the original ones you found to work from Thurn?
Everything you need to know should already be in the first post of this thread. If there's any part that's unclear about what I did and what parts I used, let me know and I will edit the post. :warranty:
[image: View Post]vanion2, on Aug 30 2007, 09:38 AM, said:
Lol....impatient! It sounds like he CAD designed the mounts and is converting it to CNC friendly code so as to cut down time and costs. Let the man earn his living and get what little time off he gets for some sleep and riding. ;) He won't leave us hanging like some people I know *coughsmyMEbuddycoughs* :rolleyes:
:D Yup, the little bit of free time I do have is spent either sleeping and (until recently) trying to fix my dryer which stopped working. <_< Getting my dryer to work ranked pretty high on my list since having dry clothes to wear is important to me. :P
I'm down if someone figures out the nuts and bolts of this.........I saw a crashed gixxer 1000 the other day (prior to reading this thread) and thought damn those would look sharp on my vfr.....ding!
What I'm not clear in is the base you used from the ones you purchased from Thurn. Not that I would make a set myself..may try contacting the makers of them to try to get a set with no eta on yours. Also want to be sure the ones you plan on making inclued the extentions on the base like I mentioned in earlier posts. LOL FYI I live near Buffalo NY..my ridding season is very short.
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Aug 30 2007, 06:20 PM, said:
What I'm not clear in is the base you used from the ones you purchased from Thurn. Not that I would make a set myself..may try contacting the makers of them to try to get a set with no eta on yours. Also want to be sure the ones you plan on making inclued the extentions on the base like I mentioned in earlier posts. LOL FYI I live near Buffalo NY..my ridding season is very short.
Nope, no plans on adding an extention. The base I used is from their 6th Gen LED mirrors. [image: Posted Image]
Any chance I or we can convince you Darth to make yours with a extention at the base or part of the base your making/ if need be a option. I've used them for years and they really do what they are made for and needed as mentioned below. http://www.1cruiser.com/sa/p/Honda_VFR800_...2_-_Current.htm
FYI Thurn is considering on making a base and extender. They haveing a production meeting soon and will let me know. Darth if your still considering on making them please post updates. I'm in no hurry as long as I have a set before next season /spring ...now that this one is pretty much done, just know how some things like this go that take time to get done (anyone remember the peg lowering blocks...) :sleep: and before we know it will be another couple months or next season with or with out this gadget. :salesman:
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Sep 29 2007, 06:49 AM, said:
FYI Thurn is considering on making a base and extender. They haveing a production meeting soon and will let me know. Darth if your still considering on making them please post updates. I'm in no hurry as long as I have a set before next season /spring ...now that this one is pretty much done, just know how some things like this go that take time to get done (anyone remember the peg lowering blocks...) :sleep: and before we know it will be another couple months or next season with or with out this gadget. :salesman:
Just out of curiosity, but why can't you use the lobster extenders before the base? They are pretty sturdy and drilling a small hole to run the wiring would be pretty simple.... :unsure:
:rolleyes: Because the lobster extenders will not work with GSXR mirrors... :idea3: Thurn says if we can get at least 20 to purchase them they will start making them. I'll take two (one pair) so we need 18 more...who wants a pair? Post intrest and e-mail Thurn @ "Thurn Motorsport" <info@thurn-motorsport.de> to get a head count. I asked Thurn to send me details on what they will make and if it will inclued or have the option of extenders and will post when I get a reply.
[image: View Post]Joe Foe from Buffalo, on Oct 2 2007, 03:47 PM, said:
:rolleyes: Because the lobster extenders will not work with GSXR mirrors... :idea3: Thurn says if we can get at least 20 to purchase them they will start making them. I'll take two (one pair) so we need 18 more...who wants a pair? Post intrest and e-mail Thurn @ "Thurn Motorsport" <info@thurn-motorsport.de> to get a head count. I asked Thurn to send me details on what they will make and if it will inclued or have the option of extenders and will post when I get a reply.
20) Joe Foe from Buffalo
19) VIPERon
18) Q-Dawg
17)..?
Q-Dawg & VIPERon did you both email Thurn @ info@thurn-motorsport.de ? I would name the e-mail you should send to make sure Thurn knows we are ready to place orders the same as what I did to them which is "Re: Mirror Mounts?"
Where the heck is Darth Bling. He really should've had this all figured out by now :pissed: .
All I know is I'm not waiting to have them whipped up by somebody a gazillion miles away. I want American made! I've got this wicked set of Christmas lights left over from last year. I'm really thinking that I can wire them up and hang 'em off the mirrors (with a little high-speed duct tape).
I agree, Darth speak up! FYI Thurn is willing to make these only for us and apossibly only once...they will not be avalible as a regular item. If anyone wants a set speak up and post/email Thurn before you loose out and cause I don't think Darth is going to make them any time soon or at all.
My question remains. Bare stocker gixxer base, sitting next to a bare, stock vfr base.
Unless someone has a GSXR and a VFR and is willing to donate their time with taking pictures for you, I know I cannot accommodate your request. I only volunteered to help facilitate the fabrication, hence the 3D print outs my partner made. Not sure if anyone else involved here actually bought the GSXR mirrors without any adapter plates available.
I know where you're goin', Seb. And it ain't that easy.
No, but it might be a cheaper/easier part to make.
I have a lot on my plate, so I'm not too anxious to dive in here, but I have to admit I'm curious to see if I can think up a solution... hence my question. Not trying to grill anyone, I just need to see them both together in order to further my thought process on it.
Ok, that's good... last question(s)... let's say the bolt pattern was the same, and it were possible to bolt the GSXR base directly to the VFR... How far off would the angle of the mirror be?
Would it work like that, or would the base need to be rotated to position the mirrors correctly?
Do you have the digital data for it? I don't really trust the dimensional stability of 3D printing just yet...
I have the CAD files that were given to Greg. According to my partner who printed them, the resolution of them was not high, but enough to get a decent print. I'll send what I have via a dropbox link in a PM. I can send you the 3-D print just so you can have a physical item in front of you.
I've been asking for 50 and 100 on my end. Let's see what we get. I tried one more place myself yesterday, and got this back just now:
"I was wondering if you could send me the solid models files?
We can't quote without a properly made CAD file."
OK. I know nothing about CAD. But I have run into this before. These parts were made in the past (and not THAT long ago...2008?) with these same files. And now about 60% of the places I sent them to said the same thing. Can't open them. Not enough info. CAD files are no good.
What in the wide wide world of sports is a'goin' on here?
Sounds like we will potentially be right back where we were when I got quotes: Found a shop to make them, reasonable on the price, just no interest from folks here.
Looking back a few pages my price was around $50 a set.
I can still get in touch with the guy who gave me the $50-ish USD per set quote, but we're still as far off in the count as we were the first time I tried this.
I can still get in touch with the guy who gave me the $50-ish USD per set quote, but we're still as far off in the count as we were the first time I tried this.
I will commit to set from that guy.
Maybe he has a set in black and not "Hot pink with daisies and retractable streamers".
This is for the mirror mounts right? To mount up the GSXR mirrors to a VFR? for $50 count me in but it will have to be in the next month. I am anxious to get my project on the road when the snnow is gone!
Well, I'd say go ahead with your build. We'd need 25+ folks and now we have.....3 or 4? Doubt this will come to fruition in a month for you. Not sure it's gonna happen with these numbers at all, actually.
I am planning to see if I can buy just the mirror mount base from the ZX6R that another guy used. I looked on flea bay and didnt see any. Might be rare. I am hoping that you can just buy the base separately and if thats possible I will let everyone know. Might be able to get a group discount from a Kawi dealer friend of mine.
Talk to me more about this alleged ZX6R fix. Never heard of this. Fotos? Thoughts? If I know Kawi like I think I know Kawi, the base is only sold with the mirror. Never seen anyone break them apart for sale.
Not sure how would work with your setup, but I took the socket out of the VFR turn signal and replaced it in the lens housing. Of course I had to rewire the entire thing anyway, so no big deal to wire it 3 wire once the double pole socket was in.
Are you able to pull new wires through the Gixxer stalk?
CornerCarver had some fancy trailer light conversion thingy (literally straight out of the 1950's), but I don't know if he ever got it to work right.
I will be able to. Darth Bling in his original design had a phillips head screw used to tighten the GSXR mirror, that he drilled thru the center of in order to keep the wire un-seeable inside the GSXR stalk. So right now, unless I can think of something different and better than drilling a hole thru dozens of screws, I'm using the same plan/idea.
So you took the GSXR 2 wires, and....twisted/soldered in the 3 from the VFR? No subdividing them at all? All 5 together?
Actually it just occurred to me that you probably wouldn't be removing the OE turn signals, which is generally a big goal of 5th Gen'ers (De-Dumboing).
So you wouldn't have the OE socket to use. But there's always eBay!
In the break glass and reassemble method, you only have the housing to reuse. Wires stay in the GSXR stalk, unused. I bought a three pack of red, black, and green wire and rewired the whole thing with bullet connectors to fit through the new hole in the upper fairing.
Then of course, filled and repainted (Or paid someone to do so) the turn signal holes.
I'm guessing you would want to use the "trailer conversion" thingy to convert three wire from the bike to 2 wire to the signal. Or not bother with running lights since you are keeping OE signals? On the 6th Gen, the turn signal holes would make a nice "ram air intake'! :cool:
Nahhh...I'd prefer to have the OEM signals and the mirrors be both running lights and turn signals. I'm all about the conspicuity. What is this trailer conversion think of which you speak? Link?
You won't need to break the OEM glass. I heated the housing up using halogen shop lights and gently popped the mirror out using a plastic scraper. Once the housing is warm enough, the lip holding the mirror in is easy to get under. I did this several times while mounting my volt meter behind the glass.
You won't need to break the OEM glass. I heated the housing up using halogen shop lights and gently popped the mirror out using a plastic scraper. Once the housing is warm enough, the lip holding the mirror in is easy to get under. I did this several times while mounting my volt meter behind the glass.
Wgregt, search back through this thread for information on wiring them up. To have the miorrors act as both running lights and signals, you need to put a diode on each of the VFR's 2 "hot" wires -- turn signal and running light -- before you join them to the mirror's single hot wire. I used 1.5amp, 1000v diodes (which I got from a now-shuttered Radio Schack) and they work just fine. You'll need 4 in total.
4 diodes per signal, Tom? Since each VFR signal has a turn signal wire and a running light wire, each side needs two? I'm going shopping around to see if I can find a Radio Shack still in bid-ness. I know there are a few still around here I heard...
I noticed there's a silver band on one end. And THAT end is attached to....the VFR OEM signal wire side, or does it matter? Feel like sketching out a simple drawing for non-electrical guys to follow?
4 diodes per signal, Tom? Since each VFR signal has a turn signal wire and a running light wire, each side needs two? I'm going shopping around to see if I can find a Radio Shack still in bid-ness. I know there are a few still around here I heard...
Maybe give Fry's Electronics a try - they've got just about any electronic part.
One more question for you Tom, and I promise to leave you alone:
With the setup you describe, will the mirrors act like the OEM signals/running lights loop: a dimmer running light, then a brighter light when it goes to the signal?
Or will the mirrors act like running lights (full brightness) and then go to fully on and fully off for the signal blink cycle? I've seen it both ways, and I'd prefer they blink/operate exactly like the OEM signals/running lights: first dim as a running light, then brighter when operating like a signal.
Just went out and checked, and they seem to be the same brightness either way. I'm not sure why,, given that the running light wire is providing the current for the running light functin, and the blinker wire does the same for the blinking function. Unless it's the way the GSXR lights are configured? With only one live wire feeding them, maybe the light can't distinguish between the functions?
Just found this. Could this be the solution, Tom? It looks like there's another option. Sounds like yours is a mix of both: not on/off, but not dim/bright either.
"This mod comes in two flavors: 1. Relay Option – This keeps your running light at full brightness and the light blinks on/off when the turn indicator is activated.
2. Diode/Resistor Option – This keeps the signal dimly lit, flashing at full brightness when the turn indicator is activated."
You know what? I just went and checked my 07 6th gen, thinking that the front OEM signals were dim as running lights, then cycled from bright to dim, bright to dim, as the signal blinked.
But I'm wrong, I think. The signals instead start out dim, then cycle on to off (briefly), then repeat. Now I think they operate more like the left side of this video, not the right like I thought. Tom, yours work like the signal on the left as well here?
It's hard to be sure, since I've got my face right next to the mirrors as I reach for the turn signal switch. Nevertheless, it appears that my running lights are brighter than the turn signals -- they actually seem to dim when they start flashing. I am not using any resistors, nor a relay -- just the diodes mentioned above.
All that said, the increase in conspicuity is so substantial that I don't worry to much about it. It's a huge improvement over the stock indicators alone.
It's hard to be sure, since I've got my face right next to the mirrors as I reach for the turn signal switch. Nevertheless, it appears that my running lights are brighter than the turn signals -- they actually seem to dim when they start flashing. I am not using any resistors, nor a relay -- just the diodes mentioned above.
All that said, the increase in conspicuity is so substantial that I don't worry to much about it. It's a huge improvement over the stock indicators alone.
The diodes serve well as a safety function, but do little else.
If there is voltage present on either the running light feed or the turn signal feed, the bulb will be lit.
Having voltage from both connections simultaneously will not brighten the bulb enough to be of any use.
So, it's not a matter of providing two different signals.
Rather, you wire the mirror as a running light, then use the turn signal feed to activate a relay which lifts ground for that bulb.
You'd want it set up something like this, using a 12 v single pole dual throw relay:
[image: signal wiring]
The numbers are the connections on a standard relay.
It's hard to be sure, since I've got my face right next to the mirrors as I reach for the turn signal switch. Nevertheless, it appears that my running lights are brighter than the turn signals -- they actually seem to dim when they start flashing. I am not using any resistors, nor a relay -- just the diodes mentioned above.
All that said, the increase in conspicuity is so substantial that I don't worry to much about it. It's a huge improvement over the stock indicators alone.
The diodes serve well as a safety function, but do little else.
If there is voltage present on either the running light feed or the turn signal feed, the bulb will be lit.
Having voltage from both connections simultaneously will not brighten the bulb enough to be of any use.
So, it's not a matter of providing two different signals.
Rather, you wire the mirror as a running light, then use the turn signal feed to activate a relay which lifts ground for that bulb.
You'd want it set up something like this, using a 12 v single pole dual throw relay:
The numbers are the connections on a standard relay.
85/86 are the coil connections,
Agreed except for the line "diodes serves well as a safety function, but do little else."
Without the diode (an electrical check valve for us plumbers) the electrical current back feeds from the running light wire to the turn indicator (when connecting any two wire light to the VFR's three wire circuit) and this circuit makes both turn indicator lights on the dash stay continuously lit.
During daytime riding it is annoying, at night is a potentially dangerous distraction.
You could also correct this as I have seen many older VCR owners do back in the day...a piece of electrical tape across the flashing "12:00" on the dash.
Ahhhh...the old "crank up the car radio to get rid of any annoying car sounds" trick. I had a roommate in college that knew that one well. So....2 diodes AND a relay, for each side? And #30 is the 12v power lead, I'm guessing?
CornerCarverWithout the diode (an electrical check valve for us plumbers) the electrical current back feeds from the running light wire to the turn indicator (when connecting any two wire light to the VFR's three wire circuit) and this circuit makes both turn indicator lights on the dash stay continuously lit.
During daytime riding it is annoying, at night is a potentially dangerous distraction.
You could also correct this as I have seen many older VCR owners do back in the day...a piece of electrical tape across the flashing "12:00" on the dash.
I'm unsure where we disagree.
That's the safety function I allude to.
The diodes do nothing for the subject being discussed; trying to make a single filament bulb function as a dual filament bulb.
Ahhhh...the old "crank up the car radio to get rid of any annoying car sounds" trick. I had a roommate in college that knew that one well. So....2 diodes AND a relay, for each side? And #30 is the 12v power lead, I'm guessing?
No, 30 is ground and no diodes are needed.
87a is the power lead from the running light circuit.
30 is the path to ground for that circuit (the mirror's bulb).
85 is the power lead from the turn signal circuit.
86 is the path to ground for the turn signal circuit.
Instead of attempting to run the mirror's single filament bulb with two different 12v sources (running light and turn signal), my circuit is interrupting the steady state running light source by opening up that circuit's path to ground for the mirror's bulb.
Attaching the turn signal lead to one side of the the relay's coil (85) and the other side of the coil to ground (86) causes it to open the relay's normally closed contact(87a) at the rate of the turn signal's "blinking"..
Going by the service manual's wiring diagram,
Right side connections off of the existing bulb socket:
Light blue/White - turn signal - connect to 85 on relay
Light blue - running light - connect to 87a on relay
Green - ground - connect to both 30 and 86 on relay
Left side connections:
Orange/White - turn signal - connect to 85 on relay
Orange - running light - connect to 87a on relay
Green - ground - connect to both 30 and 86 on relay
Greg -- not sure if this will be helpful or not, but I have a set of the original production run of the GSXR mirror adapter mounts installed on my '02. One of the problems that I've had with them over the years was the approach of using a flat head phillips bolt for attaching the mirror to the new mount. The problem with a flat head bolt is that it puts outward (not downward) pressure on the cast aluminum GSXR mirror stalk. A bit of over-tightening and . . . . .snap!! The mirror stalk will split or break in a couple places at the mounting hole, rendering it useless (which has happened to me). I was also not a fan of the fact that the aluminum adapter mounts did not include detents in the recess where the GSXR mirror stalk actually mates up with the mount. There is essentially nothing keeping the mirror stalk from rotating on the base with the exception of the friction created between the stalk and the mount by the flat head bolt. . . . .and I already pointed out the problem with that design above. When you try to tighten the bolt to ensure no rotation, the hole in the mirror stalk cracks. So, in short, you might consider utilizing a different type of bolt that won't put outward pressure on the cast aluminum stalk, and ideally, adding detents in the new adapter mount to mate up with the mirror stalk. Just my $.02. I can take some photos tonight if that would be helpful. . . .not trying to be a downer AT ALL (I love the GSXR mirrors on my bike) but I think that these minor changes would make a significant difference.
When I got the CAD drawings and info from Darth, he gave me suggestions on just about everything, which was helpful. When I got them, he spec'd the bolt as a phillips countersunk, 3/8” coarse, 16 TPI screw. So maybe he changed it after your production run? Also, the design I have has circular detents for the mirrors (shown.) Did your design have them?
PS these ABS samples don't show the threads cut into the mirror mount hole in the middle of the detent. Hard to do that in ABS.
I'll have to be more specific. . . .I'll try to get some photos tonight. Yes, mine were just like that, and yes, mine had the phillips countersunk screw / bolt. That was the problem. Pictures will speak 1,000 words. . . .
The detents I'm recommending would be at third points in the bottom of the circular recess already milled into the mount. The stock GSXR mirror stalks have protrusions that keep them in a relative position. . . .like I said, more when I have some pictures.
Your comment of "flat head phillips bolt" has thrown me off as well. I thought you said/meant "flat head bolt", which I initially thought meant you had an early version, 'cause the plan now calls for a phillips head bolt. So you'll have to explain that one again.
I know the 3 small male bumps on the bottom of the GSXR mirror arm you are talking about. You're suggesting 3 small female indentions in the new base I'm making? Those things are really small on the GSXR arm...not sure they'd make any difference on the base I'm making.
You can see the small black marks on the first foto of the ABS mounts on the round detent in one of the fotos...this is where the 3 male bumps touch/rub on the mount.
I actually like the fact that the GSXR mirrors will fold in/swivel on the base to fold them in (while lane splitting out here in CA.) I think if we had 3 small corresponding female indentions to match up it would prevent the ability to fold them in.
As far as the bolt itself, I'm not sure the head on the bolt makes any difference on the too-much-tightening thing. The flat head was chosen so it can be easily drilled for the wire to pass thru, and it sits flat in the mirror housing when tight, allowing you to install the black Suzuki OEM cover cap. And you say the pressure is outward instead of downward? Huh? It's all in line with the bolt. You'll have to fill me in on that too.
Another thing I just thought about: What if someone wanted signal mirrors that were not GSXR mirrors?
Greg -- not sure if this will be helpful or not, but I have a set of the original production run of the GSXR mirror adapter mounts installed on my '02. One of the problems that I've had with them over the years was the approach of using a flat head phillips bolt for attaching the mirror to the new mount. The problem with a flat head bolt is that it puts outward (not downward) pressure on the cast aluminum GSXR mirror stalk. A bit of over-tightening and . . . . .snap!! The mirror stalk will split or break in a couple places at the mounting hole, rendering it useless (which has happened to me). I was also not a fan of the fact that the aluminum adapter mounts did not include detents in the recess where the GSXR mirror stalk actually mates up with the mount. There is essentially nothing keeping the mirror stalk from rotating on the base with the exception of the friction created between the stalk and the mount by the flat head bolt. . . . .and I already pointed out the problem with that design above. When you try to tighten the bolt to ensure no rotation, the hole in the mirror stalk cracks. So, in short, you might consider utilizing a different type of bolt that won't put outward pressure on the cast aluminum stalk, and ideally, adding detents in the new adapter mount to mate up with the mirror stalk. Just my $.02. I can take some photos tonight if that would be helpful. . . .not trying to be a downer AT ALL (I love the GSXR mirrors on my bike) but I think that these minor changes would make a significant difference.
-Nate
Good points Nate. Now that I have my bike back together and the GSXR mirrors installed, I have noticed the same issue. The mirrors actually fall forward! One would think that they would move back with wind/ acceleration, but they flop forward. I have been tightening them down as much as I can but I am scared of the mount (which is a Ninja 6R of some year) snapping. Today I installed a pressure washer hoping that this would add the correct amount of friction.
If the 8th Gen VFR or even CBR mirrors can be used instead, that might be worth looking at. So far I can say that here are the pro's/ cons of the Gixxer mirrors:
Pros:
Better rear view/ wider and sit higher
Turn signal integration is nice- was able to "de dumbo" the 5th gen that they are on
Clear
Cons:
Still somewhat dated looking even after installing LED bulbs vs. the stock bulbs
not that much adjustability
Dont fold in easily like the standard VFR mirrors
difficult to tighten down- might snap the mount
The mirrors proved to be one of the more difficult mods on my project bike. I was hoping that these mounts will work better than the Ninja mounts that I am currently using and solve most of the "cons" above!
I'm not versed on the Ninja 6R mounts. Would love to see some fotos close up. How are they different/similar to the GSXR mounts? Maybe shoot a little Youtube video of them on the bike, showing what you mean about flopping forward?
I will try to get some video of them. The mods have already been done so I am not sure what the differences are from stock. I don't think I ever had the Gixxer mirror mounts anyways just the mirrors themselves.
I believe that we discussed this before. One other downside that I forgot to mention, and why I think ultimately some did not like the Ninja mounts, was that the wire for the signal had to be routed through the fairing (tiny hole drilled). Its really not that noticeable, and doesn't bother me. But I think it would some, not quite as sano as the darth bling mounts.
So far the pressure washer seems to be working...crossing fingers... more "quality Indiana road" riding needed to know for sure :goofy:
Wow, there are two threads on this forum that seem to never want to come to completion, this one and the 2Bros Headers thread...The anticipation is killing me and I'm not even planning on doing either mod! :biggrin:
That's how we do things...we string them out forever, often thru no fault of our own. Gives Kanadiens something to talk about in the off-season from July-May.
deltaboxii
I will try to get some video of them. The mods have already been done so I am not sure what the differences are from stock. I don't think I ever had the Gixxer mirror mounts anyways just the mirrors themselves.
I believe that we discussed this before. One other downside that I forgot to mention, and why I think ultimately some did not like the Ninja mounts, was that the wire for the signal had to be routed through the fairing (tiny hole drilled). Its really not that noticeable, and doesn't bother me. But I think it would some, not quite as sano as the darth bling mounts.
So far the pressure washer seems to be working...crossing fingers... more "quality Indiana road" riding needed to know for sure :goofy:
Yep. I remember the bit about the shrink wrap on the outside of the stalk. But I don't think I ever saw good fotos of the mount itself, or the stalk itself. The ones I'm (still) working on will also need a small 1/8" hole drilled, but it will be UNDER the mount, between the mounting bolts, and unseen. So you can go back to stock when you sell the bastard...
I will say that since this thread started I've talked to a few members here who have the mounts from Darth originally, have the GSXR mirrors, and haven't mentioned anything about cracking or the mirrors flopping forward, for what that's worth.
Ok guys. . . here are the photos that should help.
First image: snapped off stock GSXR mirror stalk at the base. . . .note the flat head Phillips bolt. If you google 'flat head phillips' you will see that this type of bolt or screw actually has a flared bottom. It's not flat on the bottom. . . .it's flat on the top!!!! You have to know your bolts. . . .you should be able to see how tightening the bolt further, essentially results in you forcing a funnel shape into a cylindrical hole. . . .the tighter you make it, the more outward pressure on the cast metal until. . . .SNAP. And then you are left with this:
[image: GSXR Mirror mount 1]
Next image: bolt unscrewed so that you can see the flare on the bottom of the bolt, and the detents on the bottom of the GSXR mirror stalk. . . more on that in a minute.
[image: GSXR Mirror mount 2]
Last image: a clearer shot of the detents. Yes, they are rather small. But, when you take apart the stock GSXR mirror base you will see how these are intended to work. There are actually spring washers in the factory assembly which apply pressure into the joint. The detents mate up, and keep the mirror stalk from spinning, falling either forward or backward. The true beauty of this is that you CAN intentionally fold the mirrors back without fear of either over-tightening or loosening the bolt in the process. If I were recreating these mounts, I'd find a way to incorporate the detents in the newly machined base, and find a more suitable bolt which would not create outward pressure and would allow for the incorporation of the spring washers. . . .
[image: GSXR Mirror mount 3]
One more thing. . . .don't be thrown off by the fact that I have the Lobstender mirror extenders too. I wanted to get the mirrors farther out since I installed the top-mount luggage as well. Those have held up well over the years. . . .
Edited September 24, 2015 by N8sVFR
I understand what you are talking about with the shape of the bolt, but the bolt was chosen b/c 1) the flat head allows ease of drilling for the hole for the wire to pass thru, and 2) it allows room at the top, once inserted and tightened, for the black OEM mirror cap to snap in and cover the hole. I *guess* there are other screws that might work that are flat on the top and not conical on the bottom. I'll go back to the email I originally got fir the CAD drawings and see what else might be on that list, if any.
You're calling those detents "spring washers" like they compress or move like a spring? I'm not sure where the spring action is coming from....?
Found it just now. Here's the link and the email about picking the bolt he did (third row, third from left):
"The top hole that secures the mirror stem to the mount is tapped with 3/8" course thread (16 tpi). You can of course pick a different size if you want/need to. The screws I bought were Philips countersunk , just like in this picture:
I drilled a hole straight down though the screw to allow the wires to pass through the center of the screw. I also choose a Philips head which allows me to tighten the screws if they ever become loose without having to worry about the wires (just use a regular flat head screwdriver instead of a Philips)."
As far as changing the bolt, once I get the finished part in hand I have no problem trying something else that is not countersunk (no conical shape on the bottom) that still allows room to install the cap cover, and yet still tighten the bolt with the wire going thru it if need be.\
Take apart the OEM GSXR mirrors. You will find the spring washers that I am talking about. The detents aren't the spring washers. They just provide the engagement for the mount and the arm (obviously). I must not be explaining the assembly of the OEM mirrors very well. . . .
Anyway, just my suggestions for some potential improvements . . .if no one else is having any problems with the adapters, then maybe it was just my issue.
I just went out and looked at all of the parts on my GSXR mirrors after I pulled them apart, and all I have are a couple shiny flat washers. So I'm guessing that ain't the spring washers. I'm guessing spring washers must be thinner washers? Still got yours somewhere?
If I can improve them, I gladly will. Just trying to get a handle on it to relay it to the guy doing the work.
Believe it or not, sadly, I DO have the original parts from the first set of GSXR mirrors I pulled apart!! I looked at them this morning. The spring washers are black; they look like a regular flat washer at first, but if you look closely, they are actually slightly conical -- if you set them on a flat surface, the center of the washer is about 1/64" higher than the edge. I believe that there were 4 in the OEM assembly, but I'm not sure where they were located relative to the OEM 'rivit' that attached the stalk to the base. When my left mirror broke, I managed to find another set or GSXR OEM mirrors on EBay that I have laying around somewhere. I'll try to find them, drill them apart, and take photos, or let you know where the spring washers were originally. Then you can do as you wish with the new batch of adapter mounts. . . .who knows. It might not even be feasible to incorporate them. But I think it would be great if you could.
I understand what you are talking about with the shape of the bolt, but the bolt was chosen b/c 1) the flat head allows ease of drilling for the hole for the wire to pass thru, and 2) it allows room at the top, once inserted and tightened, for the black OEM mirror cap to snap in and cover the hole. I *guess* there are other screws that might work that are flat on the top and not conical on the bottom. I'll go back to the email I originally got fir the CAD drawings and see what else might be on that list, if any.
You're calling those detents "spring washers" like they compress or move like a spring? I'm not sure where the spring action is coming from....?
Found it just now. Here's the link and the email about picking the bolt he did (third row, third from left):
"The top hole that secures the mirror stem to the mount is tapped with 3/8" course thread (16 tpi). You can of course pick a different size if you want/need to. The screws I bought were Philips countersunk , just like in this picture:
I drilled a hole straight down though the screw to allow the wires to pass through the center of the screw. I also choose a Philips head which allows me to tighten the screws if they ever become loose without having to worry about the wires (just use a regular flat head screwdriver instead of a Philips)."
As far as changing the bolt, once I get the finished part in hand I have no problem trying something else that is not countersunk (no conical shape on the bottom) that still allows room to install the cap cover, and yet still tighten the bolt with the wire going thru it if need be.\
It's all about terminology folks... flat head philips is appropriate when referencing a machine screw.
I'm guessing that by "spring washer", he means a split lock washer?
[image: 92147a035p2-b01-ms-land.png?ver=13585071]
Lastly, I'll offer 2 cents on the design... I would include a hollow threaded stud in the adapter. Then secure the mirror with a split lock washer and a nut instead of a hollow bolt. The nut can be tightened with a wrench, with the wires in place.
OK. Hollow threaded stud sounds good to me if I can find 'em. Let me see about that. Never having used those before, I'm assuming the shaft doesn't spin when putting the nut on the one end...what's holding the other end tight since there isn't a head on it?
I think I do remember those flat black washers coming off, and I do remember thinking "Just regular washers...trash 'em."
Ideally, the stud would bottom out in the threaded hole when tightened, and be held in place with permanent thread lock to prevent it from backing out when removing the nut.
Believe it or not, sadly, I DO have the original parts from the first set of GSXR mirrors I pulled apart!! I looked at them this morning. The spring washers are black; they look like a regular flat washer at first, but if you look closely, they are actually slightly conical -- if you set them on a flat surface, the center of the washer is about 1/64" higher than the edge. I believe that there were 4 in the OEM assembly, but I'm not sure where they were located relative to the OEM 'rivit' that attached the stalk to the base. When my left mirror broke, I managed to find another set or GSXR OEM mirrors on EBay that I have laying around somewhere. I'll try to find them, drill them apart, and take photos, or let you know where the spring washers were originally. Then you can do as you wish with the new batch of adapter mounts. . . .who knows. It might not even be feasible to incorporate them. But I think it would be great if you could.
I'd be interested to find out where they originally were. I'm sure they were not between the mating sets of notches between the end of the mirror and the GSXR base, so....where else would they even make sense and be able to put any pressure on the point of contact?
I should ask... anyone else who has a set of these original GSXR mirror mounts from DBling: ever have any issues with cracking/splitting or even the mirrors flopping forward? Would love to hear about it if so.
Hi Darth I Brock off my left mirror and like the gsxr mirrors on your bike. Which model and year mirrors did you use
Darth apparently has not been on this site in a very long time. That is why Greg took over the project to have the mounts made. I believe that the 2006/ 2007 ish GSXR mirrors can be used for these mounts, but I am not 100% sure.
I got another guy giving me a quote. Right now he's also around $100 a set for qty 50, but....we don't have 25 orders. So I asked him to go back and try 6-10 sets. Should hear back on Monday, 11/9.
OK. Final-ish call so I can give it to this guy for quantity we'd need. Right now for the 6th gen ones I have:
1) wgregt 2) Switchblade 3) DeltaboxiI
4) Deltaboxil 2nd set
5) Marooncobra
6) Polarbear
7) Jerritt (please confirm)
8) highsideNZ (please confirm)
Price-wise I should find out in the next day or so. I was quoted around $100 a set, and I'd add the price of the drilled bolts and shipping to that, but that price was for 50 pieces/25 pair. Right now we are at 16 pieces/8 pair, so I'd expect that price to go up. Should know more soon as to how much. If you at all interested, we are getting close to last call, so now's that time to say something...
Waiting for another quote to come in, but the first one....ain't cheap. With such low quantity, there's doesn't appear to be too much we can do about it. I'll share numbers as soon as the 2nd one comes in.
I think the trick to get more interest is to keep this topic bubbling at the top. These GSXR mirrors look great on our VFRs, hope this happens (someday).
Oh, it for sure is gonna happen. Just not on the scale large enough to make it cheap for us early-adopters, that's all.
I'll make a separate post once I get costs from the other vendor. Maybe that will improve things. Should also post it up on that "other" 2nd tier VFR forum as well that I'm on...(just kidding folks...)
Oh, it for sure is gonna happen. Just not on the scale large enough to make it cheap for us early-adopters, that's all.
I'll make a separate post once I get costs from the other vendor. Maybe that will improve things. Should also post it up on that "other" 2nd tier VFR forum as well that I'm on...(just kidding folks...)
Oh, it for sure is gonna happen. Just not on the scale large enough to make it cheap for us early-adopters, that's all.
I'll make a separate post once I get costs from the other vendor. Maybe that will improve things. Should also post it up on that "other" 2nd tier VFR forum as well that I'm on...(just kidding folks...)
Oh, it for sure is gonna happen. Just not on the scale large enough to make it cheap for us early-adopters, that's all.
I'll make a separate post once I get costs from the other vendor. Maybe that will improve things. Should also post it up on that "other" 2nd tier VFR forum as well that I'm on...(just kidding folks...)
If it will help get the overall price of these mirror mounts down...I say go for it and post it up over there!
There's another fellow on here who was working on a set of 8th Gen mirrors. I'm not sure where he ever finished. Just about all the OE mirrors with integrated signals have a horizontal-ish base mount - whereas the VFR uses a nearly vertical base. So, most (all?) will require some sort of adapter base. I suspect the GSXR mirror was originally selected because there were umpteen million GSXRs produced with many available used. Plus, the mirror was actually quite large by sport bike standards and didn't vibrate to holy hell.
The base could definitely be simplified considerably if the svelte form factor of the original weren't a hard requirement. Heck, a piece of bent angle could do the trick if we didn't care about the aesthetics.
When I first offered my services to Greg, the tacit understanding was that the original design was to be improved and reverse engineered to make more. A clean sheet design to reduce cost was never specifically discussed. While I think the original design looks great (what I posted a few weeks ago), I personally wouldn't have designed a mount like that if I were going to produce a set just for myself...just from a manufacturability standpoint. I would have foregone the fancy contours and used a piece of bent sheet metal.
Of those who are interested, what's the general consensus on an upper price threshold? That conversation should probably happen (again) before we continue down this path and end up with a $1XX kit.
Soooooooo, for argument's sake, is there another mirror brand and or design that might require a less complicated adapter base??? Would anyone have a suggestion about this? How about the new 8th gen? Just trying to look at it from a different angle...
C
I was able to fit up my GSXR mirrors on my Gen 5.5 with a Ninja ZX6R base (not sure of the year). It was a PITA but worked in the end. Not as clean as what Greg and co. are going for here. So I am patiently waiting for the mount for my 6th gen with another set of GSXR mirrors in the box.
[...]Of those who are interested, what's the general consensus on an upper price threshold? That conversation should probably happen (again) before we continue down this path and end up with a $1XX kit.
Something in the order of $80/pair maybe? I'm Canadian and need to add 40% to that :-(
I have these mirrors/mounts from the origianl buy on my bike. I get a lot of questions (or used to) via my site on where to buy them as the mirrors were visible in the HID Headlight video for the HID kit that I no longer sell (thus the questions stopped). I never had an issue with them breaking, even on a tip over (two of them). I did have a problem where I wished the angle was better...I am only 5'8" and I couldn't quite get them adjusted low enough. I am not sure if this has been addressed but I am guessing not? If one is needed for measuring/replicating let me know...I am not currently riding my bike so I could loan it out for a couple weeks (I would need it back, need to have mirrors!). Let me know, I would love to see these made again! I think printing them would work as long as there were seen as failure parts in the event of a crash...the rest of the bike is plastic, no reason the mounts couldn't be.
Thanks Tightwad. Interesting suggestion. Would it be doable to print let's say 3-5 pairs each in case of tip overs and how much would that be??? Just trying to look at all options people. Don't mean to undermine the excellent work that has been done so far...
Thanks Tightwad. Interesting suggestion. Would it be doable to print let's say 3-5 pairs each in case of tip overs and how much would that be??? Just trying to look at all options people. Don't mean to undermine the excellent work that has been done so far...
C
I don't know a ton about the options for printing. I do know that a local place offers rental of their machine by the hour. My library does it based on the weight (free use of machine, just pay for materials). I have no experience with printing from a cad file...I gather it's fairly easy however.
There are some great options out there for printing in plastics and metal. Metal would be the right solution, but it's pricey. Using the model I posted above goes for about $125 in stainless steel and about $180 in aluminum...that's each side, so double for a pair.
Plastic would be much cheaper, but the issue is that the plastic structure wouldn't be ideal for use as a weight bearing part without some modifications. First, plastic will creep over time...I.e, it won't remain dimensionally stable and the bolts will loosen over time. A metallic spacer would be needed so the plastic isn't compressed under the mounting bolts. Also, a threaded insert would be required for the main bolt...the plastic wouldn't be strong/durable enough to retain the bolt torque. These features are easy to incorporate into an injection molded part because the spacers and inserts are permanently locked in place during the mold process...but molded parts like these require custom machined molds that can cost upwards of $10,000. That's only an option for the OEM who makes thousands of these.
Back to the earlier question about cost. $80 may be manageable, but it'll be tight. As I mentioned earlier, this part will be fully CNC'd, which requires labor in programming and set up (the time required to manually fixture the parts on the machine). Depending on the shop's overhead, you could be looking at $100-$200/hr in labor. So, it's critical to minimize the number of times an operator needs to physically interface with the part and machine. Of course, the shop charges for machine run time, too. The more machining required, the more time required.
Adding in a custom bolt, there is more time. There is also anodize, which typically incures a lot charge. The more you plate, the cheaper the ammortized cost becomes.
Sorry if this sounds like a ramble, but I'm trying to shed light on where some of these costs go. Our biggest hurdle is the low volume. In the production world, we're barely breaking out of prototype quantities here.
Mike aka Mellow Dude from the famous world class Mellow Dude's Garage has offered to talk to his CNC guy to see if he can produce these.
Hell yeah, I'll take the drawings, a math model even better. I'll get a quote from my CNC guy.....
Its up to you guys but I can say from Mike's PAIR plates, front fender mounts and reg/ rectifier relocation adapters he makes some very nice stuff for VFR owners.
At our last count, with our small numbers of folks who want them, we were @ $160 USD just for the mounts, not including shipping and the drilled bolts, I believe.
Jump in and correct me if I am wrong, but $175-ish/set out the door USD for the mounts is still too steep in my mind. Am I wrong here?
I would be happy to pay up to $150 for a set. Hopefully once you get a good set of CAD drawings, a check on costs in other parts of the world could drop the price. Let me know when you have the CAD files sorted as I could see if there are any firms in Sydney that can do the work and provide a quote.
I got a new CAD file from a LM here. Shopped it around. Came up more expensive than the original file.
I sent it to 2 other LM's who requested it to try their local machine shops.
1 came back with yet another higher quote than my original, and one came back with a "not interested at such low quantities" response.
My suggestion is to go with my first, original design quote with a few caveats for you who are interested still.
If we JUST got the mounts alone, anodized, and I pick them up, with lovely CA state tax they came to $126.44 for a set of two. Let's call it $130 USD even to make it easy.
At that time, I would still need to buy the two bolts (one per mount) and pay to have them drilled. I rolled that cost, plus the US shipping, into my original quote of $160-ish.
So, I propose that we get these made, and then reassess/add in the bolts and drilling. I'm guessing that all of you would NOT want to source the bolts and drill them yourself, am I right? If I was buying these I'd prefer a full set in the mail. The bolt quantity was too small to order a full box (only 24 needed).
After we got these made I'd still need to get funds from each of you for the bolts and drilling at a machine shop, and the shipping. The shipping I can then do on a case-by-case basis maybe since some of you are outside the US?
Right now, at our latest count, we had 12 people interested. I'm betting in order for those numbers to stay the same we'd need to keep those 12, and maybe even add a few more?
Keep in mind, we MAY potentially get right back up to the $150/$160 USD area once all is said and done with these once I add in the bolts/drilling/shipping, so keep that in mind. I *think* the price I originally got for the drilling was something like $6/$7 USD each bolt, and the bolts cost $5 a pair or so.
Either way, this will be the last time that I'll run this around the park. I've spent a good deal of time on it and the numbers seem to stay in the same ballpark, or worse.
Let me know what you think. As of the last count we had, our 12 buyers were:
I already have a great set of lit mirrors , but in the interest of maybe helping my fellow members add my name in as well,never hurts to have extra pair anyways.
Wgregt, Have you looked into McMaster-Carr or other hardware store for those bolts? I believe these are something you can obtain off the shelf.
I have. That's where I was getting them from. Depends on the final length we need, but they had all the sizes I needed.
Ultimatevfr
I already have a great set of lit mirrors , but in the interest of maybe helping my fellow members add my name in as well,never hurts to have extra pair anyways.
I still want a set and I am happy for paying up front so you are not out of pocket via PayPal. If you can source the bolts and drill that would be good, but if too difficult or the majority decide to go without bolts I can source from here in sunny down under
As much as I'd like to put this to bed and send in an order, I'm guessing it's gonna be way more than $181/set for just the few of us this looks like it will be.
Another thing: If we go this route, with my current shop who designed the piece, even if they make these, I'm now finding out that I do not own the design. To me, this is...quite wrong. Seems the "design" is not for sale, apparently at any price. To me, this is a deal-breaker. In my mind, if you design a part (and make it) then I pay you, then...we're done and I walk away with the file. If I decide to make a million more somewhere else in the future, that's up to me.
Plus, to top it off, I know what these went for Round 1 with Darth. Yes, he may have gotten a few more (quantity 50) made, but I still think the quotes I'm getting are astronomical compared to what he paid, not that many years ago.
I'm inclined to find another designer, give him my/our collective thoughts, and walk away with the file to get bids.
Anyway, my .02. What are you guys thinking?
PS IF you have a one of these from the Round 1 that you'd be willing to lend me for a bit to have a designer get me a workable file, I'd be delighted to give you some $ to hold until they are returned. Of course I'd have it all set up on my end before you put them in the mail to minimize that time you'd be without them.
highsideNZ says:
"Ok
Count me in and I have a shipping address in Portland OR so costs should be domestic.
So we are saying that around $200 USD is the all up, plus freight.
And these are anodized black?
Cheers
Phil"
Yes they are anodized black. And yes, $200 is the all in amount I'm shooting for, only adding in freight. But that was when we had 8 folks. Still waiting to see who's in. The way it's looking now though, is less than that. Which means more cost for the rest of us. I'm inclined to rethink this...UGH.
I'd quit screwing around with the shop you're using, especially if you've already paid for the design work. Beyond that, you can use the file I made for you. It's fully parametric, which is geek speak for fully editable. You'll need the software to make the changes, or I can do that for you. I guess I'm not fully up to speed on what needs to change, though.
If you look for another designer/consultant/shop to build just the file, you'll be in a couple hundred bucks. Time is money and no one outside of this community cares about how much time and effort you've expended thus far.
If you need help, let me know. I work with a couple of designers that draw parts on a daily basis and don't care to "own" the file. I have had one of them do some side work for me in the past for minimum compensation.
You know, for what it's worth, I wouldn't mind giving Wera's guys a shot at it. The design should not be picked up by anyone else. And, just for the record, at $180+, it is well over $200 for me in Canucks dollars, plus boots and shipping. Would be close to $300 actually, about $150 a side.
This being said, it is your call but I want to say again that we appreciate all the time you have put in this project.
I am talking to a local moto-part designer the week of the 15th sometime about these. He has thoughts of making them with a foundry? Not sure about details. I'l let you know more after we meet. He also knows a local shop who might be able to offer better pricing. Last week I talked to the machine shop @ UCLA about doing them actually (they have a low hourly rate) but they are closing for the summer to bring in $2 mil of new machinery. Shop foreman did say that they'd be glad to help us after they get everything up & running though, but I'd like to pursue these other 2 leads/ideas just in case. More when I know it.
I am talking to a local moto-part designer the week of the 15th sometime about these. He has thoughts of making them with a foundry? Not sure about details. I'l let you know more after we meet. He also knows a local shop who might be able to offer better pricing. Last week I talked to the machine shop @ UCLA about doing them actually (they have a low hourly rate) but they are closing for the summer to bring in $2 mil of new machinery. Shop foreman did say that they'd be glad to help us after they get everything up & running though, but I'd like to pursue these other 2 leads/ideas just in case. More when I know it.
Waiting very optimistically... :cheerleader: thanks wgregt... :beer:
Sorry guys, but no updates. I have been working 7 days a week, 12+ hours a day since early March, so I haven't been able to go get the ABS prototypes or shop them around like I wanted to. I hope things will get back to normal after the Memorial Day holiday for me.
You guys got me thinking I need to move on this, so I texted the guy that made the ABS models for me.
He says "I actually talked to a vendor I use here at work on the phone already on your behalf who has a casting foundry about these. He also has a machine shop in back. I'll go over tomorrow and take him your part. He's already said he thinks he can handle it in the machine shop, but I want to take him the part tomorrow and be sure."
So, it looks like wheels are already turning and I didn't even know about it. How's that for some good news?
Of course I'll fill you in once I chat with the guy personally.
I met with the machine shop guy last friday in person, and had ABS samples in hand. He didn't quote a price yet b/c he suggested a few small things that might lessen the price (like extending the base a few mm in order to give the machine more room to grab the piece etc.) which I am having done the end of this week.
But, now that I got ABS samples, I have some issues. If you got ideas for fixes, I'd love to hear 'em, cause right now I don't like the solutions.
I've always hated/despised the idea of drilling the bolts. Makes them weaker and seems like a giant PITA. But that's the only way I see possible to solve the problem of getting the wire from one side of the suzuki mirror, across the bolt, and exiting the base to go into the fairing.
The wire right now needs to make it's way down the inside of the bolt about halfway, and exit out the SIDE of the bolt somewhere around the halfway point, at which point it then exits the base and goes into the fairing between the mounting bolts. And hopefully the hole drilled into the side of the bolt would line up with the hole in the base once everything was tightened down.
I thought maybe I could just keyhole a small semicircle on the side of the existing suzuki mirror mount hole, and run the wire ALONGSIDE the exterior of the bolt (and just make the bolt hole a little bigger to allow room for the wire to do this), then exit out the bottom of the mount like normal. Not have to drill the bolt at all. But...cutting that small notch would get rid of at least one of the OEM small bumps on the bottom of the suzuki mirror that would "lock" to the corresponding bumps on the mount we're making, which would make the whole "interlocking" bumps thing.....pretty useless. There are only 3 of these interlocking small bumps on the top of the mount and the bottom of the mirror to begin with, and taking one away gets rid of the benefits of doing the interlocking thing to begin with. Plus, there's really no room to cut the notch anyhow (see fotos below.)
So, as much as I hate it, drilling the hardened bolt seems like the only way. I can't see any way to get the wire to exit out of the bottom of the mount and still hide it, install the bolt cover cap, etc.
So...ideas?
PS The machine shop DID say the interlocking bumps thing on the mount would be problematic, and the corners probably would not be 100% sharp (as the router bit turns a round circle when cutting). Should we get rid of the bumps and maybe grind off the ones on the suzuki mirror to have two flat surfaces instead? Wouldn't fix the issue of the wire and drilling the bolt, but might make 'em cheaper? Might add vibes to the mirror and make them harder to keep in one spot and not rotate when riding though? Thoughts?
I have very, very little practical intelligence for things like this, but I will venture one or two ideas anyways (feel free to shoot them down):
a. could we drill a small hole on the "inside" of the mirror stem, the inside of the curved part and, if there were another hole in the fairing right next to the mount, that would remove the need to drill the bolt? Opposite to where it is coming out now on the stem?? Top of the stem on the 1st and 2nd pic on your previous post?? Maybe it would weaken the fairing too much? Not sure...
b. is there any way to get a very thick soft washer to put under the bumps on the mirror and eliminate the need to grind them down? Maybe that would also secure the mirror to the mount if the washer acts as a soft surface to stop it from rotating? Something as soft as a rubber o-ring type if thing?
There you have it, have at it and destroy as you wish.
But I just want to reiterate that I thank you, Wgregt, for taking all this time to try and figure it out for us.
a) Sounds like your idea would be to basically get the wire to exit the mirror at another location, maybe on the bottom of the stalk (you're seeing the underside of the suzuki mirror in those top 2 fotos), basically underneath where it is now?
Sure. Probably do-able, but you'd have to get the wire to come OUT of that hole somehow, which would mean separating the mirror glass/head from the shaft somehow (on other models this is done by breaking the glass to get to the bolt that holds them together...not sure how to do this on the gsxr mirror. It MIGHT be done by removing the signal part and gaining access that way maybe?) and then pushing the wire thru that new, somewhat hidden smaller hole maybe?
And yes you could then drill a hole OUTSIDE of the footprint of the mirror base on the fairing (which you'd see) to pass the wire to the electrics under the fairing.
But you'd see it.
b) The soft rubber washer (like a hose connection washer maybe that fits inside a water hose attachment point) might do the trick if it has enough friction to keep it from rotating. I'm all about not having to do extra steps like grinding the nubs off the bottom of the OEM mirror if we don't have to.
I think the bumps will be required, even if slightly rounded, as this will prevent the mirrors from folding when under speed. The friction of the bevelled washers only may not be enough and tightening the bolt to its max to prevent this may cause cracking of the mirror arm.
With regard to the bolt we only need drill a 2-3 mm hole through the centre of the bolt to get the wire through the assembly. This will not weaken the bolt to the point of stress. In fact in my early engineering days I seem to remember that a tube has more strength than a rod?
What about the drilling of the bolt from the side (to meet the drilled hole down the shaft)? That weaken it at all? I can't drill the bolt all the way thru...that would put the wires exiting the bolt at the bottom when I need the wires to come out near the middle.
Hmmmmm.....unless for some reason the bolt was short enough that when everything got tight we still had some room for the wires to pass thru to the exit hole as they came out of the bolt. Hmmm...
I need to look at the mirrors again to see the issue. I have only provided my last response from your photos and my old memory!! I am now at work but will look in the garage tonight when i get home. Gives me an excuse not to be sit in front of the one eyed monster in the corner and vegetate!!!
a) Sounds like your idea would be to basically get the wire to exit the mirror at another location, maybe on the bottom of the stalk (you're seeing the underside of the suzuki mirror in those top 2 fotos), basically underneath where it is now?
Sure. Probably do-able, but you'd have to get the wire to come OUT of that hole somehow, which would mean separating the mirror glass/head from the shaft somehow (on other models this is done by breaking the glass to get to the bolt that holds them together...not sure how to do this on the gsxr mirror. It MIGHT be done by removing the signal part and gaining access that way maybe?) and then pushing the wire thru that new, somewhat hidden smaller hole maybe?
And yes you could then drill a hole OUTSIDE of the footprint of the mirror base on the fairing (which you'd see) to pass the wire to the electrics under the fairing.
But you'd see it.
b) The soft rubber washer (like a hose connection washer maybe that fits inside a water hose attachment point) might do the trick if it has enough friction to keep it from rotating. I'm all about not having to do extra steps like grinding the nubs off the bottom of the OEM mirror if we don't have to.
Yeah, ok, the more I think about idea (a) above, the stupider I think it is. It will be visible and would require another hole in the fairing. Sigh. Sorry, forget it. Was trying to avoid drilling through a bolt. BTW, is there any company that makes bolts pre drilled? Should someone not have needed that by now? Just wondering...
I've looked online at all of the big bolt sites, and even contacted many of them to get quotes on getting one made, but their minimum quantity was either 250 or 500 and they were more than $5 each, if I'm remembering right.
I checked the mirrors tonight and note the bottom of the arm is quite shallow which means we will have to have a bolt with a shallow head. I don't know how much space is under the mounts you are going to get made to identify if there would be sufficient space to drill the bolt at angle and I can't find your 3D diagrams in the thread? If the mounts are going to be slightly bigger to allow the CNC machine hold the piece I would suggest that there would be enough depth to allow the bolt to be drilled.
if you can't find a shallow head bolt a mushroom head bolt will probably do it. Traditionally they are hardened steel and have a long shank and are only threaded on the initial part of the shank. May require a further thread to be cut into it. Could also be difficult to drill but would provide a good anchor for the assembly.
My plan now is to see if I can get them made out of plastic/resin, and then post the plans for the world to take to a 3D printer in their 'hood somewhere. The quantities are far too low to do in AL or any other way, frankly. I'm trying to make changes to the design and get a set made in black to see what they look like. Right now, since the design changes are being done for free I'm at the mercy of the guy doing them on his schedule. I'll call him today and see if I can lean on him a bit maybe.
If anyone has the cad file I would love to try printing it on my 3D printer just because I can. I haven't printed any ABS yet, this would be a good candidate and my ABS filament is feeling left out. Email it to me if you have it - tilton at gmail.com
I fancied doing this modification but couldn't afford to get mounting brackets made up so I thought I'd look at seeing if I could do something without resorting to bespoke mounts. The mirrors i bought were cheap Chinese copies so wasn't to worried if it didn't work.
After a look I thought the mirrors would fit with some modification. I drilled out the pin holding the existing mount and bolted them to the bike with the Honda mount. They fitted but stuck up at an angle. Rather than modifying the mounts I thought I could get the correct angle by using some angled spacers. I found some suitable tube (an old bent aluminium handlebar) and cut two angled spacers, Put above and below they worked a treat.
The wiring was a little more challenging. a hole drilled into the arm meant I could pull the cables through. in the mirror mount there is a small square hole using this as an egress I drilled a hole through the plastic behind and threaded the wires through and down behind the plastics. A small length of heastshrink over the wires where they ran through the mount and it's all good.
The lights are LED so they flash too fast but an inline resistor will fix that.
Would love to but currently chasing down an elusive oil leak. once that is sorted I will take it apart and do some decent photo's. I need to as I now have some tube stock to make some better spacers and when I do that I'll include the pictures.
I love the spacer idea....simplicity at it's best. I am currently test printing the original adapter to see how it works out. The first print was good even at medium resolution and in PLA. I am trying a different orientation to see if the delamination issues I expect to happen based on how a 3D printer works can be avoided.
Sorry for the delay WGREGT.. Still chasing the elusive oil leak, found it at last but there seems to be a dearth of VFR Gaskets in the UK !
First I used the bracket to mark where the hole in the back of it was and drilled through with an 8mm drill.
[image: Indicator 1.jpg]
I then drilled a 3mm hole in the back of the indicator stalk and pulled the wires through, to protect them I slid a length of heat shrink tubing over them.
[image: Indicator 2.jpg]
Then fed them through the hole in the bracket,
[image: Indicator 3.jpg]
and then through the hole in the fairing
[image: Indicator 4.jpg]
. They drop down between the Fairing mount and the plastic and the cables are long enough to reach where I'd cut the original connectors off. I replaced these with Bullet Crimps and added a cheap LED resistor pack (£2.99 from ebay)
[image: Indicator 5.jpg]
Last pick you can just see the new spaces made from more substantial thick wall Aluminium tubing that replaced the old bits of Handlebars I had used originally.
[image: Indicator 6.jpg]
I have used it for the 70 mile commute, 70MPH+ Motorway work and they don't seem to move, although they do vibrate a bit at low rev's but this could just be incumbent resonance.
Thanks for the pics. The vibration could be caused by using the non-OEM chinese build mirrors. I know other chinese knock-offs for other bikes suffer vibrations, whereas the OEM ones do not. Emgo is a particularly bad example of this. From what I've seen/read, everything they make vibrates terribly. When I worked at a Honda dealer, we'd routinely sell them, and get them back 3 days later for this reason.
Thick wall AL tubing from a handlebar. I wonder if a solid rubber "wedge" cut from a solid rubber stopper would work as well. Just thinking out loud that your tubing is essentially a large "C" shape, and a solid wedge might give more solid base for vibration preventative as well? Plus you can get them at Ace hardware stores here in the states for 50 cents each.
I'll have to check this out this weekend hopefully.
I just now went out and removed my OEM mirror, kept the base on the bike, and mounted the GSXR mirror to the base using the same honda bolt. And you're right...they do stick up waaaay to far to be useful. After looking at it, to me it looks like a wedge puts a lot of stress on the mount...so I'm gonna make a big move on this today and grind down the underside of the GSXR mirror stalk to see if that lets me slide the mirror in a bit more. This also should let the mirror drop down vertically on the bike to make it more useful. I can always repaint it if it works. I'll post up results.
Sweet Fancy Moses....I think I may have this damn thing solved.This mirror sitting in the top of my toolbox, may mock me no more.
Yesterday I took the grinder to the Suzuki GSXR mirror. It's OEM from Suzuki, so not sure if the aftermarket/Emgo ones etc have the solid metal stalk or not. The ones I have are really solid and easy to grind.
I ground off the 3 "nubs" on the bottom of the mirror, the "ring" of metal on the top of the mounting hole where the bolt goes in, took some of the metal off the bottom of the stalk, all in an effort to get the talk to "drop down" more, as it's waay high otherwise. I have yet to do the wedge (I'm gonna use the hard rubber stopper in the fotos instead of tubing) but it looks like it will work, as it's more in line with the left hand mirror (the OEM honda VFR one) both visually and also sitting on the bike confirms it as being spot on as far as height.
I still need to spray the stalks, of course, but this is looking damn good to my eye, using the OEM Honda bracket.
Boy those sure are angular-looking. Most modern ones are. To me, the angular, sharp corner ones usually look better on a sharper-focused sportbike, not an aging geezer ride like the VFR.
End of thread · 275 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 19 Jan 2022
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![[image: th_ThurnMounts.jpg]](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y215/dennytim/Mods/th_ThurnMounts.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: th_Another_POV.jpg]](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y215/dennytim/Mods/th_Another_POV.jpg){kind=link}
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