I thinking hard about making a set of body panels for my bike. I've been looking at going all carbon fiber or Kelvar or the basic fiber glass.
I've done fiber glass before and I've heard carbon fiber and Kelvar are the same steps and process. the body panels on my ceptor are looking shabby and are developing cracks thanks to the bad roads and old abs plastic. has any one here ever made there own body panels before?
I've done it. Small parts for my Ducati and restoration of vintage stuff.
It's a filthy messy expensive job only to undertaken when there are no substitutes.
Process for all is similar, products are radically different. CF is nasty and difficult to work and gives very little leeway, Also, very fragile in the real work. It shatters.
Kevlar is tough. So tough you need special scissors to cut it. Like E or S Glass, the resin you use will determine it's flex and strength.
Do some googling and you will find all you need to know.
Aircraft Spruce sells a video and sample kit to let you figure out if it is what you want to try.
(Actually, it's to let you try your hand before attempting to build your own composite airplane.)
Good luck, keep us posted.
I would say that for real world riding and maintenance, it would be best to stay low tech = fiberglass. It's the easiest and cheapest to purchase, repair and maintain amongst the three materials.
Unless you are "Money Pants" Jay Leno......or maybe that big V4 Honda collector in the forum that just got himself an RC45, then it should be no problem dealing with the higher tech materials cause you will have the money and resources to maintain them properly............................................................................................................................Just kidding (and envious), Tharkun! goofy.gif
Beck
95 VFR
Gatekeeper, Apr 9 2007, 06:18 PMI've done it. Small parts for my Ducati and restoration of vintage stuff.
It's a filthy messy expensive job only to undertaken when there are no substitutes.
Process for all is similar, products are radically different. CF is nasty and difficult to work and gives very little leeway, Also, very fragile in the real work. It shatters.
Kevlar is tough. So tough you need special scissors to cut it. Like E or S Glass, the resin you use will determine it's flex and strength.
Do some googling and you will find all you need to know.
Aircraft Spruce sells a video and sample kit to let you figure out if it is what you want to try.
(Actually, it's to let you try your hand before attempting to build your own composite airplane.)
Good luck, keep us posted.
+1.gif
To add,....Even with the right scissors, Kevlar is tough around the edges. You wold want to roll the edges, or it will look like grandmas afkan, with two wheels, roll'n down the road. Glass is your best bet.
Rivcyko, Apr 9 2007, 07:04 PMGatekeeper, Apr 9 2007, 06:18 PMI've done it. Small parts for my Ducati and restoration of vintage stuff.
It's a filthy messy expensive job only to undertaken when there are no substitutes.
Process for all is similar, products are radically different. CF is nasty and difficult to work and gives very little leeway, Also, very fragile in the real work. It shatters.
Kevlar is tough. So tough you need special scissors to cut it. Like E or S Glass, the resin you use will determine it's flex and strength.
Do some googling and you will find all you need to know.
Aircraft Spruce sells a video and sample kit to let you figure out if it is what you want to try.
(Actually, it's to let you try your hand before attempting to build your own composite airplane.)
Good luck, keep us posted.
+1.gif
To add,....Even with the right scissors, Kevlar is tough around the edges. You wold want to roll the edges, or it will look like grandmas afkan, with two wheels, roll'n down the road. Glass is your best bet.
This guy knows his stuff........fiberglas all the way.
LOL. You MUST be takling about Gatekeeper. I'm a crash-course newbie. + if you screw-up with glass, you can fill it, cause you're just gonna paint it, anyway. Look into epoxy resins, and a woven glass. (If you protect with paint). They're more flexable, than polyesthers, but they do require more cure time, as they will shrink a bit more.
thanks for the info. i'll go and find that sample kit and play with that a little befor i spend the big bucks. i'v found these types of carbon fiber
http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-cat...6+Tapes-15.html and these type of kevlar
http://www.fibreglast.com/category.php?cat...src=HelpfulProd i've never seen colored kevlar befor. it's a way bit pricey, but i would mighty nice as a set of body panels. i also might help if i ever get lost in the geto. i figure what ever i use i'll use my org. body panels as a gobuy. from what i've read on-line most people spray a freash clear coat on the panel than use spray glue to make the fabric stick in place, than spread the resion over top to form the first layer. after that i guess to can pill the first layer off the panel and start adding the other 2 layers on the back side. some where in that process i guess you need to fig. out where to place and or form any mounting tabs or tits.
Not sure if you have undertaken this task yet.
But a little advice from a surfboard glasser.
I don't know why one would spray a clear coat. There are mold release agents specifically made for this.
Personally I use car wax on my molds when making surfboard fins. A couple coats and you are good.
Just be careful about your resin(cloth) wrapping around any edges that aren't waxed.
No need to use spray adhesive either. Actually I think that would be a very bad idea.
Trim the cloth before you start, lay the fairing as horizontal as possible and just place the cloth on it.
Pour the resin in a line down the middle of the fairing. Epoxy resin wets out the cloth very well.
Squeegie the resin toward the edges. You won't need to work real fast as it shouldn't set up for at least 20 mins.
If the resin starts to look "foamy" you are working it too much.
Work the resin til you get the cloth all wetted out and remove any excess. You should be able to see and feel the pattern of the cloth. Any pooling resin needs to be removed. It avoids sanding work later, your gloss coat won't stick to anything shiny.
With til the resin sets up to remove the panel. Use the flex of your fairing to release it.
I would guess about 15? layers of 4 ounce to complete the project once you get your first layer done? I would do 5 at a time.
Once the five start to set, go to thte next five. Lay them before the previous five cure. That way you get a chemical bond and not just mechanical.
Keep materials on hand. If you run short on resin, you don't want to be hunting for it with epoxy running down to you elbows.
And just one other option, UV resin. Do the work indoors with out a time limit. Work it til you are comfortable then just carry it outside. 5 mins later it is set. I usually suggest it to first time surfboard glassers.
With all that said, it really shouldn't be too difficult. You could even tint the resin to eliminate having to paint. Just add a gloss coat. If you do this, add more red tint than the directions indicate. Red tint tends to end up pink when not used in sufficient quantities.
2thpick,
I PRESUME you are aware you can buy fiberglass fairings from Airtech? I've heard they may be a little thin, but you can reinforce them. No molds to make, hand laying avoided. They even sell Carbon.
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Larry
VFRrider