#1 Thread starter
Feel free to build on this. If your one to try it yourself, here are some basics. This thread has been done to death, but gets old or lost. I copied it to note pad, and have it on a back-up disc. (After re-typing it a few times).
There have been a few drops latley, and some questions. Hope this will give a goos start.
First things first. Supplies:
1500 grit sandpaper
automotive rubbing compound, 2,000 grit +
spot putty (for scratches past the primer)
Automotive primer (not really necessary unless you use the spot putty)
clean towels (lots of them)
reducer, NOT HOUSE-HOLD THINNER, (which is oily)!
fine oxhair brush(es)
paint
clearcoat
Objective:
K,
Objective:
Pretty basic. All you want to do is, "fill in", the layers, that have been removed.
Depending on your supplies and patience, one can really make them almost un-noticable.
Hints: Try to get the same color primer. Try not to, "dig", the sandpaper in. DO NOT WAX S#!T, FOR AT LEAST A MONTH AFTER!
Start with filling the deep scrathces, (past the primer), with spot putty. Let dry. Sand very lightly. Roll or fold the sandpaper. Sand only IN the scratch. Add a couple layers of primer. Let dry. Sand in the same fashion. Now the paint. Sand in the same fashion. At this point, you want the layers to be considerably smooth. Uneven-ness, in the touched-up areas, will catch light, making them more noticable. Now the clear. Let dry. Sand evenly, blending out VERY slightly. If you go too far out and or sand heavyhandedly, you'll take off the clear, that is on the undamaged area of the bike, and start a domino effect of swearing, sanding, and cursing Rivcyko. LOL. Oncs all of that is set, you should have a look of, "frosted patches", all over the bike. Now is the time to lightly buff it out, with the compound. start in the middle, and blend your way to the undamaged areas. One may want to hit the whole bike with paint cleaner, then machine glaze, at this point.
Applications: The best way I've found to apply the primer-clearcoat is,.... using the brush follow the scratch, (like a pin-striper), do not dab. If the paint is too thick, put a tad in a PAINT SAFE CUP, or shot glass, then add a few drops of reducer, till you have a smooth consistancy. If you use any old plastic cup or foam cup, you might as well go kick the bike over in the driveway, and call it a day. Latex gloves are nice, but not necessary. Althought the following being done with dry or drying paint on your fingers, is gonna make things worse. When brushing on the paint, any over runs need to come off immediatly. Keep the application in the scratch. I use a clean finger to wipe it away. If you start streaking it, with your finger, then use a clean lint-free cloth, with a dab of reducer on it, to clean the surrounding area. wipe lightly and briskly, as the more reducer, you press into the surrounding good paint, the more it will break it down, creating a giant mess. lightly wipe any residual reducer off IMMEDIATLY!
Do that with Primer paint and clear, and you should be pretty happy with the results. SLOW AND STEADY.
If you don't have the time, $, or patience, for all of that, use the technique, and the touch-up paint. Should make any dammage, at least a lot less noticable.
Good lucK!
Pin this! LOL. I suck at typing. (Coping to note pad, just in case). LOL.
There have been a few drops latley, and some questions. Hope this will give a goos start.
First things first. Supplies:
1500 grit sandpaper
automotive rubbing compound, 2,000 grit +
spot putty (for scratches past the primer)
Automotive primer (not really necessary unless you use the spot putty)
clean towels (lots of them)
reducer, NOT HOUSE-HOLD THINNER, (which is oily)!
fine oxhair brush(es)
paint
clearcoat
Objective:
K,
Objective:
Pretty basic. All you want to do is, "fill in", the layers, that have been removed.
Depending on your supplies and patience, one can really make them almost un-noticable.
Hints: Try to get the same color primer. Try not to, "dig", the sandpaper in. DO NOT WAX S#!T, FOR AT LEAST A MONTH AFTER!
Start with filling the deep scrathces, (past the primer), with spot putty. Let dry. Sand very lightly. Roll or fold the sandpaper. Sand only IN the scratch. Add a couple layers of primer. Let dry. Sand in the same fashion. Now the paint. Sand in the same fashion. At this point, you want the layers to be considerably smooth. Uneven-ness, in the touched-up areas, will catch light, making them more noticable. Now the clear. Let dry. Sand evenly, blending out VERY slightly. If you go too far out and or sand heavyhandedly, you'll take off the clear, that is on the undamaged area of the bike, and start a domino effect of swearing, sanding, and cursing Rivcyko. LOL. Oncs all of that is set, you should have a look of, "frosted patches", all over the bike. Now is the time to lightly buff it out, with the compound. start in the middle, and blend your way to the undamaged areas. One may want to hit the whole bike with paint cleaner, then machine glaze, at this point.
Applications: The best way I've found to apply the primer-clearcoat is,.... using the brush follow the scratch, (like a pin-striper), do not dab. If the paint is too thick, put a tad in a PAINT SAFE CUP, or shot glass, then add a few drops of reducer, till you have a smooth consistancy. If you use any old plastic cup or foam cup, you might as well go kick the bike over in the driveway, and call it a day. Latex gloves are nice, but not necessary. Althought the following being done with dry or drying paint on your fingers, is gonna make things worse. When brushing on the paint, any over runs need to come off immediatly. Keep the application in the scratch. I use a clean finger to wipe it away. If you start streaking it, with your finger, then use a clean lint-free cloth, with a dab of reducer on it, to clean the surrounding area. wipe lightly and briskly, as the more reducer, you press into the surrounding good paint, the more it will break it down, creating a giant mess. lightly wipe any residual reducer off IMMEDIATLY!
Do that with Primer paint and clear, and you should be pretty happy with the results. SLOW AND STEADY.
If you don't have the time, $, or patience, for all of that, use the technique, and the touch-up paint. Should make any dammage, at least a lot less noticable.
Good lucK!
Pin this! LOL. I suck at typing. (Coping to note pad, just in case). LOL.