I had a couple of the 5 mm screws fall out that hold the fairing onto my '02 VFR. I thought "Hey, next time I have the fairing off and go to reinstall it, I'll put a dab of blue Loctite on the bolts/screws".
The loctite worked OK where the panels bolt directly to the frame but where they bolt into the round rubber pieces with a brass core, the Loctite gripped so well all the rubber grommet did was spin inside it's hole. I had to wind up dropping both side fairings and the middle black piece as one unit and then use some pliers to grip two nuts I couldn't get to come loose.
In the process I punched a nice sized hole and crack in the front cowl. $349.
Stupid is as stupid does.
DON'T USE LOCTITE OF ANY COLOR ON YOUR FAIRING BOLTS!
I've stripped 2 fairing bolts in the last yeat without using locktite. My mistake is that I keep using Craftsmen Ball ended Hex Keys. The ball end keeps stripping the fastners, it pisses me off and costs me $10 a fastener. I need to get a regular hex key instead of these crappy ball ends.
Gap Trash, Dec 12 2007, 11:43 PMI've stripped 2 fairing bolts in the last yeat without using locktite. My mistake is that I keep using Craftsmen Ball ended Hex Keys. The ball end keeps stripping the fastners, it pisses me off and costs me $10 a fastener. I need to get a regular hex key instead of these crappy ball ends.
I use 1/4" drive allen sockets with a long extension and 1/4" ratchet. Works great. beer.gif
If you are having fasteners come loose you should make sure they are being tightened with the proper torque. If Honda didn't put a thread locker on a fastener than chances are you shouldn't either. Especially when were talking dissimilar metals such as plated steel/brass, plated steel/alloy.In my experience Alloy and plated steel fasteners smaller than M6 with a thread locker is flirting with disaster.
Whew, OK first off let me say - with all due respect, sorry this happend to you. However that is the most entertainment I have gotten from vfrd in a long long time, right up there with Red Green. I gotta catch my breath - damn that almost made me fall out of my chair. I had this mental picture of you tugging at it with your feet up on the bike - tugging for all shes got, and then blammo right on your butt with a big huge gaping hole where the bolt used to be.
I had the same thing happen. When I went to the dealer to order the new pieces (nut in rubber piece) I explained what happened to the parts guy (The parts guys at DFW Honda are great. They have been there a long time, know their stuff and know me by name).
He said for the screws that hold the plastics on (and screw into the nuts held in a rubber piece) just put a light coat of grease on the screw threads before putting the screw in. This will keep them from backing out due to vibration.
Of course for screws that hold plastics on and screw into threads that ar NOT held by rubber pieces I use blue (Medium) loctite.
Yea, you don't need lock-tite on those. If you tighten them correctly, they won't back out because the rubber acts as a locking washer, putting pressure on the threads.
If you haven't bought your cowl and replacement well nuts and bolts yet, let me know what you need, I can save you a few bucks on it.
Sorry to hear about the mishap, Pete. One of my rubber bolt receivers came loose on the back of the lower cowl, but it's no big deal. I just use two hands to tighten/loosen those bolts now - one for the bolt and one for the rubber piece.
I've thought about using a dab of white lithium grease (from my 'bicycle' tool box) on the side fairing bolts to prevent them from seizing, but I remove the fairings often enough I don't think it's really an issue. I did use a little bit for the hand levers and probably ought to put a dab on each rear wheel stud.
Sorry to hear this, but, on the upside, look at all the joy you've brought to your fellow viffieristi. beer.gif I did have one of the well nuts seize up slightly the first time I pulled the tupperware. I've used a bit of anti-seize on all the well nutted bolts ever since and have never had one take to the road.
Glad I could supply so much entertainment to you guys.
I had had a bolt "go missing" on a previous ride and that is what prompted me to use the loctite this time. Like I said, lesson learned. That's one of the points of this board, to share our "F'ups" with others so they don't make the same mistake (and so others can sit around and say "What an idiot").
Jeremy, I'd more than appreciate your help or input on the front cowl. I really take pride in keeping my VFR in pristine condition and I priced a new front cowl at $349 from Ron Ayers. Send me a PM on any info you have.
The hole I put in the front cowl is in the lower left most bolt hole that attaches the left side plastic. That was one of the fasteners that wouldn't come loose and when I got all of the others loose it was putting so much strain on that one fastener it just pulled the bolt right through the front cowl and then the cowl got a giant crack in it right below the left turn signal.
Slammer: I wasn't tugging that hard, I just have a lot of arm strength. And for your information Mr. Smarty Pants smile.gif , I was already on my ass on the floor cussing Honda and myself for all the world to hear. I'm sure my screams were heard all the way in CO from GA. It was just the end of a long frustrating day. What started out as a 10 minute job turned into a two hour task.
Life gives you lemons - you make lemonade. Now that I will be replacing the front cowl it would be the prime opportunity to get the up graded front wiring harness from my dealer and install it.
Very entertaining as most of us have had some kind of trouble with these fasteners. The first time I took all the plastic off it came off in 1 piece as i could not get the little srew things out of the bottom farring. I still hate these things and have new ones from Honda to repace them. The ones on the inside of the fairing (above the front tire)I will try to use a differnt style I found at NAPA I will put the part # up as soon as I Know they work! These ones I will try have a head to pop out with a sharp tool but you can always get at easier than those screw things>>
ki-speed, Dec 13 2007, 09:11 PMfor the screws that hold the plastics on (and screw into the nuts held in a rubber piece) just put a light coat of grease on the screw threads before putting the screw in. This will keep them from backing out due to vibration.
I've been doing this for some time, ever since I worked out that it makes the screws much easier to screw in. The rubber wellnuts depend on friction of the rubber on the panels to keep them from turning when you put the screws in or take them out. If you make it easier for the screws to turn than the wellnuts to turn, then they work well. Another thing you can do if you're having problems with them, is to push the panel in as you turn the screw, which squishes the 'head' of the wellnut between the panel(s) and mounting. One thing I've learned is that the wellnuts die VERY quickly when you use pneumatic tools on them. My 'bike guy' is always in a hurry, and has wrecked a few of them because using an allen key is too slow for him. Another thing is that once you have problems with them even when using grease on the threads, you may as well chuck 'em away.
Bent, Dec 13 2007, 04:16 PMSorry for the frustration and cost. Anybody here that hasn't done something like this, chime in, so we'll know who the liars are... tongue.gif
I don't envy anybody having to remove / reinstall the front fairing. When I removed mine (for when I got the area between the headlights painted), I couldn't believe all the work I had to go through. I remember having to remove both side panels, the windshield, mirrors, instrument cluster, and then get to the nuts (not the easiest to get to) that held the front fairing in place. I also remember breaking several of those small black plastic fasteners. It wasn't that big a deal but they cost over $3 each and of course the dealership didn't have them in stock.
You're not going to believe this one. I once read about this novice that coated the oil drain bolt on his Harley with J.B. Weld. No joke.
Like I said, lesson learned and I try to keep the attitude of making lemonade out of lemons. I was getting ready to do my winter projects and in a way I guess now it willl be easier. I'm doing the All Balls roller bearings and upgrading the headlights.
Just think how easy that work will be with that pesky front cowling out of my way. Now I have the opportunity to clean that little area at the bottom of the windshield that is impossible to reach.
(I'm trying my damndest to keep a positive attitude about all of this)
rather than loctite try using a semi-soft wax. Go to a local hunting department. In the arhery section they should have a tube of "string wax" this a great for keeping bolts from backing out but doesn't require any more effort to remove the bolt than one without it on. I've used it one all kind of stuff and never had any problems including bike body work, although not the the VFR.
I like to use an electric screwdriver with adapter for an allen head driver. Spin them in and tighten by hand. Saves a lot of unnecessary screwing versus a hand allen wrench. biggrin.gif
Thanks for the lesson. No glue. Well, except one of those little rubber receiver / grommet with threaded insert things came out. Couldn't figure how to push it back into the too small hole, so I superglued it. WTF, It works. goofy.gif
KeystoneVFR, Dec 13 2007, 02:32 PMI don't envy anybody having to remove / reinstall the front fairing. When I removed mine (for when I got the area between the headlights painted), I couldn't believe all the work I had to go through. I remember having to remove both side panels, the windshield, mirrors, instrument cluster, and then get to the nuts (not the easiest to get to) that held the front fairing in place. I also remember breaking several of those small black plastic fasteners. It wasn't that big a deal but they cost over $3 each and of course the dealership didn't have them in stock.
You're not going to believe this one. I once read about this novice that coated the oil drain bolt on his Harley with J.B. Weld. No joke.
No, tell me it isn't true. Guess that Hog hasn't had an oil change in a long time..... laugh.gif
KeystoneVFR, Dec 13 2007, 02:32 PMI don't envy anybody having to remove / reinstall the front fairing. When I removed mine (for when I got the area between the headlights painted), I couldn't believe all the work I had to go through. I remember having to remove both side panels, the windshield, mirrors, instrument cluster, and then get to the nuts (not the easiest to get to) that held the front fairing in place. I also remember breaking several of those small black plastic fasteners. It wasn't that big a deal but they cost over $3 each and of course the dealership didn't have them in stock.
You're not going to believe this one. I once read about this novice that coated the oil drain bolt on his Harley with J.B. Weld. No joke.
No, tell me it isn't true. Guess that Hog hasn't had an oil change in a long time..... laugh.gif
I'm just telling you what I read. Now something like that would really suck.
End of thread · 26 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 11 Jan 2008