The below is a cut and paste from Racetechs site,, I am a very spirited rider,, i weigh 170lbs,, often burying the spedo,, and having to bkrake fairly hard,, the only and bigest complaint i have about my 1994 vfr 750F is that the front likes to dive easily,, so i pluged in the value for racing...
is that to agressive,,, ?? am i on th eright chart..? amount and weight of oil PER shock would be much appreciated...
Thanks Much
94-95 Honda VFR750
Select Type of Riding: Racing
Enter Rider Weight (without gear): lbs OR kg.
Rider Weight: 170 lbs. Recommended Spring Rate: 0.920 kg/mm (use closest available) Stock Fork Spring Rate (measured): .701 kg/mm (stock) Available FRSP S3534 Series Springs are:
I would go more towards the soft side of Race Tech's recommendations, especially if you're not going to also replace the rear spring (or whole shock, ideally). Tracks are better graded/smoother than what a lot of us ride in the mountains. If you're not going to change your rear spring, or your roads aren't that great, I'd suggest you consider 0.85. In any case, I don't think you'd want to go stiffer than 0.90.
If you are really interested in buying Racetech springs, call them. They are very knowledgeable and can tell you everything you need to know. If you arent actually racing on a track I would opt for the .90 spring since it is closest without going over what they recommend. I would also ask them about revalving with their gold valves. I did the spring and valves on my 06 and have been very satisfied with it, even though I dont ride as hard as you do. If you tell them what YOU want out of your suspension They will give you ALL the info you need to set it up for YOUR individual needs. Try it, youll like it.
^ Also like he said, you should respring the rear, or better yet, replace with an adjustable unit. Then make sure to set the sag at both ends. This turned my 06 into a totally different ride (for the better). Good luck with whatever you decide.
If your worried about it being aggressive, why did you put in "Racing" when I would gather you are a street rider. Sorry, but going fast in a straight line doesn't make you an aggressive or good rider. Use the OEM recommenced oil level and viscosity if you are not upgrading your valving. The VFR has cartridge style forks that have valving which is designed for a fixed viscosity of oil. Raceteck springs are good springs, find a good aftermarket rear shock on ebay, and then do a rider school or track day if you want to ride aggressive. There are quite a few how-to posts on this web site, I would suggest read the ones about suspension.
fallzboater, Dec 26 2007, 10:22 AMI would go more towards the soft side of Race Tech's recommendations, especially if you're not going to also replace the rear spring (or whole shock, ideally).
I weigh 180 and went with the Racetech 0.90 springs, gold valves (compression only) and the recommended 5W oil. I am very pleased with the forks but the rear needs help. I have done the the 929 shock conversion but I can't set proper rear sag until I respring. You need to heed fallzboaters advice on doing the rear as well, and favor the lighter side of their spring recs.
fallzboater, Dec 26 2007, 10:22 AMI would go more towards the soft side of Race Tech's recommendations, especially if you're not going to also replace the rear spring (or whole shock, ideally).
I weigh 180 and went with the Racetech 0.90 springs, gold valves (compression only) and the recommended 5W oil. I am very pleased with the forks but the rear needs help. I have done the the 929 shock conversion but I can't set proper rear sag until I respring. You need to heed fallzboaters advice on doing the rear as well, and favor the lighter side of their spring recs.
if i dont want to revalve,, just go with the .90 spring and a little heaver oil is there a way i can flush the forks out well without disassembly,, i plan on taking them off the bike,,, can oi wash / flush them out with some solvent [ please recoment one ] and leave them hanging up side down for a week or so...????
You can use mineral spirts or something like that. Just pour some fork oil in the forks and flush out any residual solvent. Make sure you pump the damper shaft and the fork tube when you are cleaning them.
Let me elaborate a bit on the oil viscosity, you want the forks to be able to move freely but not bottom, if you put in oil that is thicker then the valving is designed for it will slow the forks down to much. The valving in cartridge forks is made of shims that deflect when oil is forced past them. Thicker oil is useful in the older style of damper rod forks. Just try changing the springs you will be surprised at the change. In my experience heavier oil will slow down your forks to much and can cause the front tire to skip under hard braking if you go over an uneven surface.
slowf2337, Dec 26 2007, 12:41 PMYou can use mineral spirts or something like that. Just pour some fork oil in the forks and flush out any residual solvent. Make sure you pump the damper shaft and the fork tube when you are cleaning them.
Let me elaborate a bit on the oil viscosity, you want the forks to be able to move freely but not bottom, if you put in oil that is thicker then the valving is designed for it will slow the forks down to much. The valving in cartridge forks is made of shims that deflect when oil is forced past them. Thicker oil is useful in the older style of damper rod forks. Just try changing the springs you will be surprised at the change. In my experience heavier oil will slow down your forks to much and can cause the front tire to skip under hard braking if you go over an uneven surface.
thanks very much for that extra knowledge,,, much appreciated,,
so the stock weight is 10wt i believe ?? and the amount of ait at the top of the shock with NO springs inserted is?? [ please verify that is the correct method,,, no springs and fork fully extended,,] then poor fluid into unit until air gap at top = ? then insert springs and the fork cap...?
On the 4th gen you're supposed to use Honda SS-7 which I think is 5W, The correct level is 177mm from top of the tube to oil when spring is removed and fork is compressed. Make sure you stroke the fork and piston rod several times to get the oil in the cartridge (pump the piston rod slowly, you'll see why (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/biggrin.gif) )
chat_vmax, Dec 26 2007, 08:33 AMI am a very spirited rider,, i weigh 170lbs,, often burying the spedo,, and having to bkrake fairly hard,, the only and bigest complaint i have about my 1994 vfr 750F is that the front likes to dive easily,, so i pluged in the value for racing...
is that to agressive,,, ??
I don't know where you live, but riding where you "often burying the spedo,, and having to bkrake fairly hard" is Not ideal for street riding for many reasons let alone the non stop dancing with the devil. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/blink.gif) Best saved for the track, the PACE is the safest and most enjoyable to ride on the street for your safety and the future of our sport!
Now off the box and to your question, as mentioned Race Tech numbers are on the very firm side so a step or two lower will provide you a more usable compromise. Raising the the oil level 10mm with help some along with the proper springs. Also check under our "bargain finder" section for Sonic springs, less money and most likely better springs. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/beer.gif)
I just bought an Ohlins 46HRCL and I know that I'll need to do some serious work to the front end to balance things out. I've read Slammer's featured mod on the Race-Tech setup he performed and I'll probably head in that same direction.
A lot of posts I've read on the subject of spring rate have people installing .90 or .95 springs. Race-Tech's site suggests that my 180lbs would be best suited to a .991, which seems weird given that their highest rate is 1.00. As a matter of fact, to qualify for their lowest rate spring, a .85, a street rider would have to weigh 85 pounds without gear. Hell. My Thanksgiving dinner weighed more than that. To "qualify" in the .90 range, a rider would have to weigh 120lbs. Fess up. How many 120lb VFR pilots do we have out there? (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/huh.gif)
I know that everyone says that Race-Tech tend to go heavy with the spring rate, but this just seems silly. Thoughts???
sailcycle, Jan 2 2008, 09:54 PMA lot of posts I've read on the subject of spring rate have people installing .90 or .95 springs. Race-Tech's site suggests that my 180lbs would be best suited to a .991, which seems weird given that their highest rate is 1.00.
I know that everyone says that Race-Tech tend to go heavy with the spring rate, but this just seems silly. Thoughts???
Race tech sux, at your weight I would go with the .90 if you do combined riding or the .95 if all you do is hard charge twisties and between a 18-19 kg rear spring. If you just commute and tour solo a .85- 18 sounds good. at 195 lbs I'm running a .95 front with revalved forks and a 19kg spring on an Ohlins rear and only rail twisties and it feels good to me. (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/beer.gif)
End of thread · 18 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 10 Jan 2008