RC-51 fork installation

Has anyone who has done the RC-51/SP-2 fork installation had a problem with the fender hitting the oil cooler? I made a post on "the other site" just to assemble as much info about my project as possible. Had a guy remark that he's heard that can be an issue.

BTW, my RC-51 factory manual came in yesterday. Not cheap, but now I know all of the relevant torque specs and know what the insides of the forks look like.

Which upper triple are you using again?

No problem with the fender and triple and I've landed some pretty hairy :biggrin: with the RC51 front end, never an issue.

SEBSPEED

Which upper triple are you using again?

929/954

No problem with oil cooler here either. Got any springs and oil in those forks? :goofy:

I wish you'd said you were after a manual as I have a pdf one of the SP1 Honda Service manual I found ages ago, could've sent it to you.

No problems with the fender either. When are you going to post some pics of this 'supposed' project? :goofy:

vfrcapn

No problems with the fender either. When are you going to post some pics of this 'supposed' project? :goofy:

It's a slow moving project. Money is a little tight right now so I proceed as the extra coins become available.

Pete McCraryHas anyone who has done the RC-51/SP-2 fork installation had a problem with the fender hitting the oil cooler?

Only applies to the VFR750 model. A couple of guys with those have either curved or re-located their oil cooler for clearance.

I have used CBR929/954 upper and lower triples, and the RC51 lower triple and had my forks flush with the top triple, 30mm above and 15mm above and it has all been good for me.

Haven't crashed, tucked the front, ran wide on the exit of a corner, worn my tires irregularly, pinched my hands or fingers between the tank and bars, bottomed out the forks or hit the fender/wheel/forks on anything or any other matter that people who have not done this will tell you to watch out for.

For the VFR800 models at least, it just works.

In the process of collecting parts for my sp2 fork install on my 03. So far have the legs and 929/954 upper triple. People want alot of money for the sp1 lower, will the 929/954 lower work just fine?

rosshh

In the process of collecting parts for my sp2 fork install on my 03. So far have the legs and 929/954 upper triple. People want alot of money for the sp1 lower, will the 929/954 lower work just fine?

I don't know why it wouldn't, pretty sure steering stem's the same length and forks are the same 50mm diameter

rosshh

In the process of collecting parts for my sp2 fork install on my 03. So far have the legs and 929/954 upper triple. People want alot of money for the sp1 lower, will the 929/954 lower work just fine?

I've used both. Uses the same lower bearing as the SP-1 does.

OK, duh here. I THOUGHT the SP2 spindle WOULD NOT fit a VFR, needed SP1. AM I wrong? Not that its that important, just info.

Larry

VFRrider

mrmatt

rosshh

In the process of collecting parts for my sp2 fork install on my 03. So far have the legs and 929/954 upper triple. People want alot of money for the sp1 lower, will the 929/954 lower work just fine?

I don't know why it wouldn't, pretty sure steering stem's the same length and forks are the same 50mm diameter

SAFE-T

rosshh

In the process of collecting parts for my sp2 fork install on my 03. So far have the legs and 929/954 upper triple. People want alot of money for the sp1 lower, will the 929/954 lower work just fine?

I've used both. Uses the same lower bearing as the SP-1 does.

Thanks for the info!

vfrrider

OK, duh here. I THOUGHT the SP2 spindle WOULD NOT fit a VFR, needed SP1. AM I wrong? Not that its that important, just info.

Larry

VFRrider

SP2 = no

Stem diameter is too large, will not fit the VFR's frame neck.

SP1 = yes

However, using the SP1 triple allows you to use SP2 forks if you wish.

Center to center distance is the same, as is the clamp diameter.

I originally looked for an SP-1 triple clamp over on the RC-51 forum. One guy wanted $180 for one and sent me a cell phone pic and it looked like crap. Another guy wouldn't even quote me a price, he just said "Make me an offer" - that's with no pics or no description.

I can tell you some real EBay/RC-51 forum horror stories about this undertaking. I've got the essentials together. From here on out, it will be all new parts.

My front end came with a 929/954 stem and I'm determined I'm going to make it work one way or another. The biggest appeal to me of using a 929/954 steering stem is it uses the same All Balls bearings as the VFR and it looks like the steering stops might work OK as is - no sawing off and having to install bolts.

With work picking up real strong here lately, the weekend is the only time I get to mess with the VFR.

I am interested to know if the steering stops work with the 929/954 lower. Please update when you get it together!

Pete McCrary

I originally looked for an SP-1 triple clamp over on the RC-51 forum. One guy wanted $180 for one and sent me a cell phone pic and it looked like crap. Another guy wouldn't even quote me a price, he just said "Make me an offer" - that's with no pics or no description.

I can tell you some real EBay/RC-51 forum horror stories about this undertaking. I've got the essentials together. From here on out, it will be all new parts.

My front end came with a 929/954 stem and I'm determined I'm going to make it work one way or another. The biggest appeal to me of using a 929/954 steering stem is it uses the same All Balls bearings as the VFR and it looks like the steering stops might work OK as is - no sawing off and having to install bolts.

With work picking up real strong here lately, the weekend is the only time I get to mess with the VFR.

I'm doing the RC fork swap now too. I bought a RC triple, wheel, fender, and a 954 top. Off of flea-bay from different sellers. All of it was junk. Think they was cleaning out the garbge can when they sold this stuff. That's where it belongs! I got my money back on some of it, but not all. :fing02: So now I got new parts from the dealer. At least he's giving me a 30% discount on parts. :goofy:

On the 3mm spacer for the lower bearing. Think it would work best between the lower bearing race and the frame. Not between the triple and the bearing. This way, the lower seal is in the correct position.

rosshh

I am interested to know if the steering stops work with the 929/954 lower.

Works if you ride in a straight line only :goofy:

I just ground mine off and left it at that, but I consider steering locks pretty useless anyway.

Pete McCraryThe biggest appeal to me of using a 929/954 steering stem is it uses the same All Balls bearings as the VFR.

Upper bearing is VFR

Lower bearing is CBR929/954 or 2000-2001 RC51 SP-1 which are interchangeable.

This is where I stand now with my set-up. :rolleyes: Yes boys and girls. Those are Ohlin forks with radial brake set-up. :unsure:

[image: DSCN1035.jpg]

[image: DSCN1036.jpg]

RustyA

This is where I stand now with my set-up. :rolleyes: Yes boys and girls. Those are Ohlin forks with radial brake set-up. :unsure:

[image: DSCN1035.jpg]

[image: DSCN1036.jpg]

Sweet! :fing02: Keep us up to speed on the rest of the hardware as you get it.... -- What wheel is that?

MD

mello dude

Sweet! :rolleyes: Keep us up to speed on the rest of the hardware as you get it.... -- What wheel is that?

MD

RC Marchesini?

That remote won't last long in the dip tray on the grinder...

RustyA

This is where I stand now with my set-up. :biggrin: Yes boys and girls. Those are Ohlin forks with radial brake set-up. :biggrin:

[image: DSCN1035.jpg]

[image: DSCN1036.jpg]

Looks like Rusty is doing his part to get the economy up and going again. :fing02:

mello dude

Sweet! :biggrin: Keep us up to speed on the rest of the hardware as you get it.... -- What wheel is that?

looks like an SP2 wheel to me... at least it looks like the one on my bike.

The rim is a '03 SP2. That remote has been in that location for about 4 yrs now. LOL

My fender never rubbed...

[image: CIMG0040.jpg]

Larry your right. The SP2 triple will not fit.

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

Pete McCrary

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

I'm 95% sure that my wheel(the Orange One) is an SP2, but it's been 2 years since I bought it, so I might be wrong..

xerox

Pete McCrary

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

I'm 95% sure that my wheel(the Orange One) is an SP2, but it's been 2 years since I bought it, so I might be wrong..

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Man when you buy stuff off of EBay, you never know what you're going to get.

Pete McCrary

xerox

Pete McCrary

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

I'm 95% sure that my wheel(the Orange One) is an SP2, but it's been 2 years since I bought it, so I might be wrong..

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Man when you buy stuff off of EBay, you never know what you're going to get.

AH, ok. Now I know that I have 954 Calipers, but I want to say that I have 929 disks....Man I have all this stuff written down at the house in my shop Manual, but I'm an ocean away right now. Sorry I'm not more help

Pete McCrary

Man when you buy stuff off of EBay, you never know what you're going to get.

Doesn't everyone enjoy a good mystery?

Pete McCrary

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Here's a much easier way to tell: SP-1 have 6 spoke, SP-2 have 5 spoke (thus slightly lighter).

FotoMoto

Pete McCrary

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Here's a much easier way to tell: SP-1 have 6 spoke, SP-2 have 5 spoke (thus slightly lighter).

Unfortunately, my wheel is at the wheel shop now having a flat spot repaired, scratches removed, and powder coated so I can't count spokes. I took my brake calipers up there this morning and they're going to paint my wheels gold to match the brake calipers.

I'll look just like FotoMoto then. :rolleyes:

Pete McCrary

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem.

I have an RC51 and have two sets of wheels; one SP-1 set and one SP-2 set. That orange one is an SP-1 front, as you correctly deduced.

I can confirm from first-hand experience that all of the bolt-on bits, including the rotors, are interchangeable. The SP-2 rotors are slightly thicker (1 mm?), but that's the only difference.

03VFR0078

Pete McCrary

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem.

I have an RC51 and have two sets of wheels; one SP-1 set and one SP-2 set. That orange one is an SP-1 front, as you correctly deduced.

I can confirm from first-hand experience that all of the bolt-on bits, including the rotors, are interchangeable. The SP-2 rotors are slightly thicker (1 mm?), but that's the only difference.

Thanks for the info. I can breathe a sigh of relief now. This front end that I picked up is a real mish mash of various Honda parts.

SP-2 rotors are 0.5 mm thicker. I dropped off my brake caliper at the wheel shop this morning and told them to match the color of it when they repair and powder coat my wheel. I think it will really look sharp.

. . . . . . and going off on another tangent, the wheel shop is using a new type of method called Low Temp Powder Coating. Allows them to leave the bearings and seals in place. I checked it out on the web and it's the real deal. This stuff was invented so plastics, wood, and assemblies that can tolerate high temps can be powder coated.

I was really impressed with this place. They do a lot of wheels - I mean a lot. Place has about 12 employees and car rims/wheels out the wazoo. $155 to true my wheel using heat, vibration, and pressure. Final truing is done on a CNC lathe. Then it is stripped, blasted, primed, and powder coated. I looked at some car wheels they did and they were impressive. They can even do a super 12 layer process that makes your wheels reflective at night like a road sign is. Apparently it is something Mercedes has started doing with their wheels. The Mercedes wheels were the only ones I saw with it. Very expensive.

Are they Enkei wheels? My SP-1 came from the factory with Enkei's, not sure about the SP-2.

I also have both sets of rotors. My Marvics have SP-2 rotors, and I swap the wheels out no problem.

Do you have any color chips you can share with us? You said you're doing a Subaru gold, right?

SEBSPEED

Do you have any color chips you can share with us? You said you're doing a Subaru gold, right?

Originally I told them I wanted the Subaru WRX gold. They told me the wheels on the blue WRX's that had gold wheels were actually anodized so there isn't a paint code for the wheel. What I did instead is clean up one of my SP-2/929/954 brake calipers, dropped one off with them, and told them to match the wheel(s) to the caliper. I figure that will look good. My forks are a bronze looking color.

Haven't looked to see who manufactured the wheel as the wheel shop has it right now. I have figured out it's an SP-1 wheel and my rotors are SP-1. My forks are SP-2's (I've got an extra set plus they have the correct Showa part number on them). The guy on FleaBay advertised this front end as coming off a 2003 RC-51 which wound have made it an SP-2. Either he didn't know his stuff that well or he BS'ed me, but the package I wound up with is a potpourri of SP-1/SP-2/929/954 parts. I know my calipers are SP-2's as I bought an extra set off of FleaBay and then I measured the pistons. Going to order all new seals, pads, hardware, etc tomorrow when I get paid and completely rebuild the calipers. Figured I might as well install a new SP-2 master cylinder as well. They aren't outrageous and I don't feel like F'ing with all the little parts inside not really knowing if it's an SP-1 or SP-2. Front brakes aren't exactly the place to cut corners with my money and time.

I'll make it all work somehow, some way. This front end looks like it sat outside in the weather for a year or so. Lots of clean up, rubber replacement, hardware replacement to do. But there's a lot of good stuff underneath all of the rust and crud (like Ohlins valves inside by Thermosman).

Another typical FleaBay deal.

KPerham

Are they Enkei wheels? My SP-1 came from the factory with Enkei's, not sure about the SP-2.

I also have both sets of rotors. My Marvics have SP-2 rotors, and I swap the wheels out no problem.

SP-1 rotors are 4.5 mm thick. SP-2 rotors are 5 mm thick. That's the only difference in the rotors.

xeroxNow I know that I have 954 Calipers, but I want to say that I have 929 disks....Man I have all this stuff written down at the house in my shop Manual, but I'm an ocean away right now. Sorry I'm not more help

929/954 disks will bolt onto either an SP-1 or SP-2 wheel but are 10mm larger in diameter so will only work on 929/954 forks, or RC51 forks with radial brakes and a spacer to accomodate the larger size rotor.

SEBSPEED

mello dude

Sweet! :fing02: Keep us up to speed on the rest of the hardware as you get it.... -- What wheel is that?

MD

RC Marchesini?

That remote won't last long in the dip tray on the grinder...

:goofy:

It seems like everyone has already confirmed what fits and what doesn't, but this is what I have going on;

SP2 Upper triple

929/954 Lower triple and stem (as already confirmed you have to grind the stops off)

SP2 Forks... I actually have three fork legs, anybody need one? I believe it's the left side off an '05...

SP2 Wheel and rotors

SP2 calipers

JTG

It seems like everyone has already confirmed what fits and what doesn't, but this is what I have going on;

SP2 Upper triple

929/954 Lower triple and stem (as already confirmed you have to grind the stops off)

SP2 Forks... I actually have three fork legs, anybody need one? I believe it's the left side off an '05...

SP2 Wheel and rotors

SP2 calipers

What's the problem with the 929/954 steering stem stops? I'll be to that point this weekend hopefully and a heads up and what I'm gonna run into would be helpful.

I was really hoping they would work.

From the information library that I'm slowing building in my noggin, there is no one true path to success in this project as a lot of SP-1/SP-2/929/954 parts interchange easily.

Two steps forward, one step backwards.

Metro Wheels called yesterday afternoon to tell me my wheel is ready. I go by there today to pick it up and it is absolutely gorgeous! I had them do the wheel in gold to match the brake calipers.

I get to looking at the wheel close, and whoever did the work in the shop painted over the machined surfaces where the disk bolt. I reminded him that I specifically instructed him to tape that area off.

I handed the wheel back and said "Have the guy do it right. Call me when it's ready".

If I had a dime for every time that happened to me Pete....... :biggrin:

Really, the only solution is to talk to the guy in the back who is actually DOING the work beforehand.

Not the front counter dude/dudette.

Veefer800Canuck

If I had a dime for every time that happened to me Pete....... :biggrin:

Really, the only solution is to talk to the guy in the back who is actually DOING the work beforehand.

Not the front counter dude/dudette.

Truer words have never been spoken. Lesson learned.

Jeez, the wheel looked good though. The guy did a great job of mixing the powder coat material to match the calipers.

Pete McCrary

Veefer800Canuck

If I had a dime for every time that happened to me Pete....... :fing02:

Really, the only solution is to talk to the guy in the back who is actually DOING the work beforehand.

Not the front counter dude/dudette.

Truer words have never been spoken. Lesson learned.

Jeez, the wheel looked good though. The guy did a great job of mixing the powder coat material to match the calipers.

First off, can you make up your mind and tell us if it's PAINT, or if it's POWDERCOAT? Please? :goofy:

Second, I would have handled that wheel situation a lot differently, because now you are at risk of having the incompetent guy sandblasting (or otherwise mechanically "cleaning") your machined rotor mount surfaces!!! Call them back asap!!

OK, got the wheel back pronto today. I got to talk with the guy who did the work, he apologized profusely, and said the info didn't make it from the front counter to the shop. The front counter guy I was dealing with was not to be found today.

They got the machined surfaces cleaned off and the wheel looks outstanding!

[image: IMG_0622.jpg]

Seb - this a Ford color, reference 58303. What you see is 2 coats of polyurethane color coat, and 3 coats of clear on top of the color. I ask him why not low temp or regular temp powder coat and he said where he attaches the grounding wire would leave a mark.

He did an mild acid dip to the wheel, steel bead blasting, and then dipping again before painting. I've had several people (including folks on this website) recommend against the powder coating. This is something that can be touched up if necessary. My body shop buddy even recommended this same method. Problem is, he doesn't have a bead blaster or an acid dip. These folks do a ton of wheels a day so I figured they knew what prep and paint methods work more than some one guy shop in their garage somewhere.

I was especially impressed that the final truing of the wheel was done on a CNC lathe.

The best way to check all of what he did is mount up the brake disc, put the wheel in a jig, and put a dial indicator on it.

When I got my wheels powdercoated, they hung the wheel from the spray/bake rack using a metal T-hook through the valve stem hole. Then they ground the whole rack.

That way, the mark in the powdercoat from the hanger is hidden when you install your valve stems.

Veefer800Canuck

When I got my wheels powdercoated, they hung the wheel from the spray/bake rack using a metal T-hook through the valve stem hole. Then they ground the whole rack.

That way, the mark in the powdercoat from the hanger is hidden when you install your valve stems.

Ditto on my CBR F2 wheels that are on my '83 750F. :ph34r:

ps - the wheel looks good, just don't forget to chase the rotor bolt threads with a tap. It's so easy, I had my son do my last set:

[image: picdump6-3-08018-1.jpg]

:ph34r: :blink:

Once you guys get this all sorted out can you build me a kit... :ph34r:

jasonsmith

Once you guys get this all sorted out can you build me a kit... :wheel:

If you only knew how much money I'm sinking into this whole setup - but I want it done right. All new moving parts in the wheel, all new seals and hardware on the calipers, and the forks completely rebuilt. I ordered over $900 worth of parts from RonAyers yesterday. That includes one outer fork leg (one of mine is scratched really bad) and a new SP-2 master cylinder.

SEBSPEED

ps - the wheel looks good, just don't forget to chase the rotor bolt threads with a tap. It's so easy, I had my son do my last set:

:wheel: :beer:

Definitely!

Pete McCrary

jasonsmith

Once you guys get this all sorted out can you build me a kit... :wheel:

If you only knew how much money I'm sinking into this whole setup -

I didn't keep exact track, but my conversion totaled nearly 2 grand (Cdn).

That's counting the CF front fender, new steering head bearings, new Helibars, the cost of getting them welded and powdercoated, new brake pads, brake lines, new front tire, powdercoating the wheel, etc, etc.

But that was offset quite a bit by selling off my existing front end as a complete setup.

Also, that was back when the exchange rate was in the toilet. 80-something cents per greenback.

:beer:

I'm not sure I'll ever put 2K into my VFR, but I would love to put this fork swap on my '98 some day. Trouble is, with 60K on the clock and the bike having a bit of rash from being knocked over, the whole thing is only worth about 2K to begin with. sad.gif

Maybe I'll start looking for a low mileage 5th Gen that a little old lady only drove to church on Sundays...

Meanwhile, you guys just keep clearing all the garbage off ebay for me, okay? :wheel:

a2db

:beer:

I'm not sure I'll ever put 2K into my VFR, but I would love to put this fork swap on my '98 some day. Trouble is, with 60K on the clock and the bike having a bit of rash from being knocked over, the whole thing is only worth about 2K to begin with. sad.gif

Maybe I'll start looking for a low mileage 5th Gen that a little old lady only drove to church on Sundays...

Meanwhile, you guys just keep clearing all the garbage off ebay for me, okay? :wheel:

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, billet VORTEX racing upper triple clamp, plus black anodizing, yadda yadda.

I could have done it cheaper by using lower spec parts but hey, you only live once.

I know I'm gonna get sucked in to doing this on my 5th... So anyhoo - Go Pete!

yes it isn't a cheap conversion. Mine cost close to $2500 Oz Rahzoos, but then I sold the old front for $1000...

How's this coming along?

1. Wheels are being shipped from the real painters tomorrow. I machined up a couple of "rings" that I bolted to each side where the disk attach to act as masking devices for the surface the brake rotors bolt to. I have absolutely fallen in love with Delrin. So easy to machine and holds tolerances well.

2. Ohlins (Thermosman Suspension) has my forks and are revalving them. I went with RaceTech's 1.1 springs. I know Sonic's are cheaper, but the piece of PVC electrical conduit for a spacer seemed tacky.

3. Need to take a pic of my 929 steering stem. Russ and I both decided the heavy casting ridge on them looked like crap. He sanded his off and repainted the stem. I filed mine off with an aluminum file, taking just the minimum amount of metal with it. I then took a Gator brand paint removal/polishing disk (available in the tool section of Lowe's) on my right angle grinder to the rest. They look like a green Scotch Brite pad. Took about 10 minutes. About a half hour of Dremel work with a #520 polishing wheel and some Mother's Polish. Thing looks chrome plated. I took off the casting ridge, the boss sticking out for the brake line, etc.

4. Got a Suzuki SV650 junction block for the brake lines. This way I can run one hose off the master cylinder and then split it into two for the wheel calipers. I aluminum soldered the depressed area in the middle of the junction block and then belt sanded both sides. Got a nice big piece of flat aluminum attached to the brake line barrel so I can bolt it to the bottom of the stem. Should have that finished this weekend.

5. Carved all my pieces for my "de-link connector" for the rear caliper out of 316 stainless the last couple of nights. Just have to drill the connector pipe holes and then silver solder it all together. I fashioned mine slightly different than Ralph (Tok Tokkie) did so my brake line bolts on the outside of the rear most brake port. That way I can use any type of brake line I want. My original method had the rear brake line under the connector. As each manufacturer uses a different thickness of banjo fitting, I would have had to have my rear brake line first. This way I can use any brand of brake line (including the stock Honda). 316 stainless is a pure biatch to machine and make look nice.

I should have detailed progress pics to post Monday if the weekend goes as expected.

So that's where I'm at.

Pete McCrary

1. Wheels are being shipped from the real painters tomorrow. I machined up a couple of "rings" that I bolted to each side where the disk attach to act as masking devices for the surface the brake rotors bolt to. I have absolutely fallen in love with Delrin. So easy to machine and holds tolerances well.

2. Ohlins (Thermosman Suspension) has my forks and are revalving them. I went with RaceTech's 1.1 springs. I know Sonic's are cheaper, but the piece of PVC electrical conduit for a spacer seemed tacky.

3. Need to take a pic of my 929 steering stem. Russ and I both decided the heavy casting ridge on them looked like crap. He sanded his off and repainted the stem. I filed mine off with an aluminum file, taking just the minimum amount of metal with it. I then took a Gator brand paint removal/polishing disk (available in the tool section of Lowe's) on my right angle grinder to the rest. They look like a green Scotch Brite pad. Took about 10 minutes. About a half hour of Dremel work with a #520 polishing wheel and some Mother's Polish. Thing looks chrome plated. I took off the casting ridge, the boss sticking out for the brake line, etc.

4. Got a Suzuki SV650 junction block for the brake lines. This way I can run one hose off the master cylinder and then split it into two for the wheel calipers. I aluminum soldered the depressed area in the middle of the junction block and then belt sanded both sides. Got a nice big piece of flat aluminum attached to the brake line barrel so I can bolt it to the bottom of the stem. Should have that finished this weekend.

5. Carved all my pieces for my "de-link connector" for the rear caliper out of 316 stainless the last couple of nights. Just have to drill the connector pipe holes and then silver solder it all together. I fashioned mine slightly different than Ralph (Tok Tokkie) did so my brake line bolts on the outside of the rear most brake port. That way I can use any type of brake line I want. My original method had the rear brake line under the connector. As each manufacturer uses a different thickness of banjo fitting, I would have had to have my rear brake line first. This way I can use any brand of brake line (including the stock Honda). 316 stainless is a pure biatch to machine and make look nice.

I should have detailed progress pics to post Monday if the weekend goes as expected.

So that's where I'm at.

So the custom delink connector that you were going to have made and available for the rest of us is no more? I'm still trying to source all my parts, but doing ok since I have the forks, triples, front wheel, rotors. Just need to figure out which bars and the front master cylinder and whether to spring for the carbon fiber fender.

I am new to the forum but Pete was a dear friend. He passed away before finishing the bike. His wife called me this week and told me I could have the bike if I would come and get it. I do not know what it will take to finish it. So I will be asking for help. I might decide to sell the set up he has now and just go back stock. I will decide after I get it home. Sounds like he has it ready to go back together. He was a great engineer and was very picky with his work. Sometimes when I am out riding and get to remembering the fun we had riding through the mountains it breaks my heart. It was a race everytime we got together. He was an awesome person. I miss him a lot. 

Mate... sorry to hear of your friend's passing. Condolences and thanks for the update.

Good to see you've come to the right place to (hopefully) continue his project.

I will just have to wait and see. We are going to get it on Sat. Since I am retired it will give my something to do while the weather is bad. I just can't let it interfere with my riding and fishing. My wife had VFR 800 when we were dating. She now has a 1250 Bandit but she has been talking about another VFR so maybe this will be the ticket.  

Oh Man,  how heart breaking indeed.  Thank you for letting us know.  Yes please if it feels right just give a shout out,  lots of great peps here that would lend a helping hand. 

Sorry for the loss of your friend. I've done the RC51 fork swap. How far along was he? 

I really do not know yet how far he was on the bike. I will find out on Sat.  I did do the paint work on the wheels for him. The last thing he posted here must have been it. He passed away on Jan. 2014 after being sick for a long time. It will be interesting to see what he has done. 

Sorry to hear about Pete. We conversed years ago about fork valves and setup, he was a very smart and very nice guy.

Sorry about your friend. Continuing his project and completing it for him, would be an amazing tribute to him though. I have done a front end swap, so if you need any pointers, don't hesitate to send me a pm.

Got the bike home and it is in pieces. I think Pete got two of everything. I have two sets of RC51 forks and I will sell one set. Maybe both before it's over with. I have got to do a lot of thinking about this. It has been setting since 2010 with no exhaust on it so I am hoping that no mice have entered the engine. It has been kelp in inside storage building. So that's a plus. I found the lower triple tree but not the upper. The rear brake line is missing. Any suggestions will be awesome. 

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I had decided to leave the bike stock but after seeing what Pete had done so far I decided what the hell and I am going to install the RC51 forks. I ordered a few more parts today. I know Pete had them somewhere but we could not find them. The only question I have at this time is since Pete had the 929 lower why do you need to use an RC51 upper ? I ordered an F4I rear master cylinder and I might need some info on the length of line it takes to go from the master to the caliper. 

I think that's the right decision, but only you know the answer to that.  Onward and upward!

The RC51 upper is flat, and most people don't use it.  The 929/954 upper is the reverse gull wing, which allows the clip ons to mount on top of the top clamp, or the use of shorter forks with the clip ons mounted below.  Most people use the RC51 lower, but I believe others may have used the 929 lower.  Should be easier to deal with the bump stop issue, but other things could be more complicated, as it is the less-trodden path.

No idea on the brake line length, but it might be better to measure yourself how long you need it to be, given the exact route you're planning on using to get from the caliper to the master cylinder.  I'm going through the SSSA on mine, so the length will be totally different.  I'm pretty sure you can get custom-lengh lines made in the 'States, but it's been a while since I've done it, so I don't know for sure which companies do it.  Is there a HEL USA?  I think I had them do my last US lines.

Ciao,

Thanks for the info. I wish I had known about the upper clamp sooner. The 929 lowers seem like they will work and the bearings are the same as the VFR plus it is the same length as the VFR .

I have cbr929 upper and lower triple trees. I had to mill off a lot of steering stop material to get my steering clearance back. I can't quite lock the steering to the left, but I can still lock to the right. Maybe I need to mill more off or maybe I should have searched for an RC51 lower, but I am okay with it as is, so I am going to leave it as good enough.

I had to do a little grinding on the lower tree and oil cooler mount. It seems to work fine now. The left radiator hose keeps it from going to far left and the wiring bracket keeps it from going to far to the right. I was going to make stops but I am not sure if it needs any. I ground the stops completely off. I am waiting on parts now. 

I have the forks installed but I am confused about what clip ons to use.  Any suggestions would be nice. 

She is looking better. 

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I used the stock VFR1200 clipons on my '99 conversion. Looks like you could have enough above the top triple to fit them, if that is final ride height. I just trolled the 1200 forum for everyone who changed the stockers for aftermarket bars until I found one willing to give me their unwanted clip ons.

I have a pair of stock VFR1200F clipon handlebars available, if you decide to go that way. Also a VFR1200F top triple clamp, which I thought would go great with an RC51 front end conversion. I just decided not to go with upside down forks. I also have a very nice set of RC51 SP1 forks available, but it seems you are fully stocked with forks.

Cheers

It is coming along pretty good. I am working on the rear brakes at the moment. Got the F4I master cylinder installed and now have to figure out how to run the brake lines. I put the 1000RR clipons that Pete had on it but they suck. The RC51 master cylinder bumps the instrument cluster. I am thinking a 600rr cylinder instead. I am doing what I can. 

That's why I went with the VFR1200 clip ons. They are similar to the stock 800, actually a bit taller. Mine uses the down gullwing top bridge, so it netted me a slight drop from stock. On a flat top bridge, they would be similar to having Helibars or the like.

And I use RC51 masters on brake and clutch. But maybe the different set up of the 5th Gen helps that out as well?

I used 929 upper tree so it's the gullwing type. But the 1000rr clipons are to far forward unless you rotate them so far towards the back that they are really uncomfortable. I do not have a lot of money to spend. So everything I do has to be on a budget. I cannot gamble on something that might work. I am happy with the way things are going so far just need to get the clipons figured out. I can buy a set of fully adjustable Danmotos for less then 80 dollars plus shipping. I have read reviews on them and they seem pretty good. 

I used a 954 top plate, and Heli-bars for a Duc. If I remember right. The inside diameter was 51mm. I cut the raiser peice on the bars and added a spacer to raise them up more. I can't get to my pictures because I'm traveling. Being 2,000 miles from home kind of makes it tough. 

I am using dan moto clip ons on my R1 front end swap. They have been working great for a few years now.

I ordered a set of Dan Motos this morning. The price even with shipping was 103 dollars. I have not heard any bad complaints except some people said the allen heads were easy to round off. 

threads on the clipons are aluminum. So take care not to cross thread or over torque. other than that, theyre great.

It is coming along pretty good. Waiting on more parts now. Brake lines for the front and rear and the clipons. After they get here it should not take to long to finish it. All the inner fairing pieces are missing but I am hoping Pete's wife can find them but I have a feeling they were tossed. They could not find the exhaust Pete had on it either but I do have the stock pipes. That's a plus.  Thanks for all the info. 

Gotta RC51 if you need pic's.

If anyone wants the 1000RR clipons I will sell them for 40 dollars. I just could not make them work the way I wanted to. A 600rr or similar master cylinder would help. I also have the stock clipons. 

Assuming RC51 calipers?  Well, the SP1 and SP2 pistons are different (SP1: 34mm/32mm, SP2: 32mm/30mm), as are the front master cylinders (SP1: 3/4", SP2: 11/16").  Assuming RC51 calipers?  Well, the SP1 and SP2 pistons are different (SP1: 34mm/32mm, SP2: 32mm/30mm), as are the front master cylinders (SP1: 3/4", SP2: 11/16"). 

[Reviews up-thread...]

I see that Pete had SP2 calipers.  That's good news if you want to use an integrated-reservoir master cylinder, as you can use one from a CBR600RR3-6 (11/16").

Ciao,

Pete bought a brand new Honda RC51 master cylinder so that's what I am planning on using. The forks are SP1 worked over by Ohlins so they should be great. The rotors are SP1 and you said the calipers were SP2. I do not know what they are. I am happy with the way things are going . We are wanting to get it on the road. 

(I thought you said the RC51 master hit the fairing?)

Anyway, the fork in your picture (with the Ohlins sticker) is SP2.  SP1 have a different flange where the caliper brackets attach (and you have to use SP2 caliper brackets with these forks).

To be sure, you can measure the caliper piston ODs without disassembling anything, using a dial caliper.

Ciao,

The master cylinder hits the gauges but I ordered a set of adjustable clipons and I am pretty sure that will remedy the problem. Pete bought the forks under the impression they were SP1. He had two sets of forks and this set was longer then the other set. From what I have read the SP1s are a little longer. As long as everything comes together I will be happy. 

AFAIK, the length difference between SP1 and SP2 is a direct result of the different top-out spring lengths used in each version of fork, and cutting these springs down is done as part of many RC51 fork rebuilds.  In other words, the forks current length is not necessarily an indicator of the fork's original length.  SP1 caliper flanges are just two separate nubs, one for each bolt hole; SP2 flanges are one long flange with two bolt holes.  Making it even more confusing, at some point Honda changed the SP2 outer tubes to Showa gold (from bronze), but I don't think all SP2s had gold fork outer tubes.

I only discovered the difference between the caliper flanges when I went to bolt up the SP1 flanges I'd previously acquired to the SP2 forks I more recently acquired...no way Jose!  (And guess which easily removable parts Honda does not sell separately?  Yep, because they are considered part of the "fork assembly".  Fortunately, people often sell second-hand calipers with brackets attached, so I was able to buy a set from someone who was using the SP2 calipers on a different type of fork.) 

Ciao,

It's getting closer to being finished. The Dan Moto clip ons came and they worked out great. Waiting on exhaust gaskets and after that it should be pretty much finished. I am very pleased at how it's coming together. 

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Looks great

All the inner fairing pieces are missing. Matter of fact all the black trim panels are missing. Pete's wife has been trying to find them but I would say they most likely got thrashed. 

After setting since 2010 she fired up today. 

Well it is now ready to ride. I think it turned out pretty awesome. My wife Deb is ready to ride it. She had one when we first met and she is excited to have another one. I know one thing it has one heck of a set of brakes. 

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That's fantastic, Mountain. You've done Pete's memory and his wife a real solid. Congratulations.

Congrats... ride with pride

Nicely done my man,  he's smile from above,  you did good. ;)

Getting the suspension dialed in will be the next thing to do. The Penske shock has a ton of adjustment. I did end up using no catalytic converter. The power commander does need set up. When it's cold it idles like crap and smells rich. After it warms up it seems to run fine. It will be interesting to see just how good the finished product will be.   

And a wife who wants to ride it as much as you! You chose well...
Great job, enjoy the machine and the memory.

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

4 hours ago, Mountainrider

Getting the suspension dialed in will be the next thing to do. The Penske shock has a ton of adjustment. I did end up using no catalytic converter. The power commander does need set up. When it's cold it idles like crap and smells rich. After it warms up it seems to run fine. It will be interesting to see just how good the finished product will be.   

The idle cells are not supposed to be adjusted.
The only thing you should be doing to clean up your idle is a tune up:
Starter valve sync
Fuel injector ultrasonic cleaning
New spark plugs etc.

It has been setting since 2010 so it might need to be ridden and see what she does after a good ride. Get the tag next week and then we will find out what happens.