(IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif) After my minor slide I decided what better time to do a total rebuild.
I have thus far taken the front end off and started putting it back together. I took the guage and light assembly apart, cleaned and soaked every bolt and repanted every bracket and bolt. I've also rewrapped the wire loom on this model most of the harness is taped only some has a nice loom. I tucked the wires and ran them in such a way that it wont look as cluttered. I've put all that back on the bike but haven't made it as far as putting the front end back on. I've had some work done on my back so I am just ordering parts and talking to you fine folks from bed :thumbsup: ...
I'll post pix of each part of the rebuild. However, after the little slide the bike is running 100 times better than it ever has so the motor will stay on the frame this time. I have ordered a new SRAD rear shock with remote that came in today. Seems to be in very good shape. So, my next steps are going to be pulling out the swing arm and rear shock.
The paint work will be the NC/RC red white and blue. After much research I think I found that the white isn't the same as the RC pearl white but haven't confirmed this as yet. If you have put your hands on the early 90s NC and have seen these colors up close please advise.
UP DATES TO FOLLOW (IMG:style_emoticons/default/warranty.gif)
Perhaps next year I will do the motor and put all my newer spares on it, crank case covers, valve covers and such. They are in new shape these just need repainting, but no point when I do a valve adjust. Its only got 8k miles on it.
I think I am going to do the NC red/white/blue as much as I like the RC if I'm going to put this much effort in it may as well make it correct I suppose.
Hey, good luck with it, and I hope your back heals up soon!
A quick tip for you: rubbing your old black sun faded plastic parts with Vaseline(or any petroleum jelly) will make them look like new! I tried it on some parts that were almost bleached white and it brought them back! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
Larry, My factory rear is is pretty good shape with the exception of the mid fill panel screws so I hope sanding them with sime 320 prime and paint will make it like new again. The upper and lower that I have is AirTech fiberglass so the rash that I have I can reglass and make them new again. I'm giong to be fairing the on the inside so it will take paint and look cleaner than the raw glass finish they leave them.
SEB, Thats the kinda tips I was hoping to bring out. My rear finder liner has a touch of that gray fade, I'll try your trick and see how it works out. The only other parts that have that milk haze to them is the fill panels on the frame between the fairings and frame, I'll try it there as well.
The back thing is a work related accident where I was struck in the back with a 1 1/2-2" steel cable 3 years ago. It comes and goes as far as the pain but this is by far the worst its been in a year or so. SUX!
SEBSPEED, Jan 10 2008, 09:45 PMAlso, Autosol and a soft cloth work wonders on faded clear plastic(guage faces, lights). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
You don't know it, but you're filling my mind with restore tips on my CB350F. . . Thanks Seb! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
SEBSPEED, Jan 10 2008, 09:45 PMAlso, Autosol and a soft cloth work wonders on faded clear plastic(guage faces, lights). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
You don't know it, but you're filling my mind with restore tips on my CB350F. . . Thanks Seb! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
Just passing along stuff I've been wanting/needing to know for my own project. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
One more thing, if you're not worried about "correct" parts, adding clutch and/or brake master cylinders from a newer bike(provided the piston sizes are close), easily adds a modern look to the bike.
Same goes for switch control pods. I'm going to be using a CBR1100XX clutch master cylinder, Yamaha R1 radial brake m/c(made by Brembo), early 5th gen VFR left switch pod(with choke), and CBR900RR start/stop switch and throttle control on the '83. Nice thing number 1 is that they're all Honda parts, so I'm basically doing what Honda does everyday anyway, LOL! Nice thing number two, is that since they're all Honda parts, all the fittings should be the same, and the wiring will be very easy to adapt. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
Unfortunately, I am thinking about correct parts. My '74 350F still has the original paint on it. If you have any spare 4-2-4 exhaust layin' around. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
theoxmole, Jan 10 2008, 10:57 PMUnfortunately, I am thinking about correct parts. My '74 350F still has the original paint on it. If you have any spare 4-2-4 exhaust layin' around. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
No, sorry... You wouldn't happen to have a full double 2-1 system for an '83 VF750F laying around, wouldja? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/goofy.gif)
Sorry man nothin' in the garage. I've seen the 4-2-4 exhaust go for more than my bike is worth.
There's a story behind the "Honda supplied" parts involving shoddy workmanship and cheap chrome explaining the reason they rust out. Sad really. Not too many "shoddy" Honda products that you hear of but I own one with crappy exhaust! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
I'm pretty much stuck on the clutch side but may be able to use a newer cable clutch lever. The switch gears(switches) are the uk/jap versions with the passing light switch(coolness) that our bikes don't have here.
FLYONWALL9, Jan 10 2008, 11:06 PMI really want to use a newer front mastercyl from like a cbr600 or even the 900. The NC30 has a common problem with feeling mushy. Even thought of perhaps getting a newer Nissin http://www.motorcycletoystore.com/sport/sh...inder/p_42.html
I'm pretty much stuck on the clutch side but may be able to use a newer cable clutch lever. The switch gears(switches) are the uk/jap versions with the passing light switch(coolness) that our bikes don't have here.
Pretty much all the new liter bikes have radial brake masters now, I know the CBR1000RR does. Look around on ebay. Honda uses Nissin, Yamaha haas their contract with Brembo, the factory unit I have even has the Brembo logo cast in it. No need to spend big $$ on one straight from Nissin, when you can get the same factory part for less.
Suzuki GSXR's from '06 and up have the flash-to-pass switch on the US models, so look for one of those. They don't say Suzuki anywhere on them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
I was able to get out the old tired factory rear shock, man what a mess I will take pics so ya'll can laugh at me... Talk about a POS! I took off all the shock linkage, rear hub once again, break, rotor, pretty much everything but the swing arm, still gotta find a tool to remove the lock nut for the swing arm bolt.
Took a wire wheel to the parts that I have removed, they look brand new again and tured out really good. Should have taken before and after pix. I couldn't believe how nasty all thost parts were and how they look now. Its going to be like a brand new bike once I get it all back together.
I've got to mill down the GSXR shock to fit into the NC but the length is dead on, should make a huge diff.
Upon removing the rear hub I was amazed at how much gravel was found in the bowl of the swing arm again. It was only a couple of months ago when I replaced that hub and cleaned all that mess out. This time when I get off the swing arm I will foam fill the arm to stop that problem.
QUESTION: What would it hurt to wire wheel the swing arm? Seeing how well it cleaned up my other parts would this hurt anything. I dont' want to polish the arm just get it as clean as I have been able to get the other parts. It has those factory pits in it that has 18 years of funk, I have sprayed 2 cans of engine brite and gotten lots of it off but its still stained.
Wouldn't having it glass bead blasted clean up the swingarm. I seem to recall that they even use salt or some other crystals or plastic beads to gently clean stuff with a blaster.
SEBSPEED, Jan 12 2008, 09:51 AMUnless you're going to repaint the s/a, or powdercoat it, I wouldn't wire wheel it. Try rubbing down with WD-40, or a quick swipe of acetone first.
I would almost swear its not painted. I could be very wrong and will surly be the first to admitt, it doesn't act like paint, clean like paint, flake or scratch like paint... Could it be? If so, what kind of paint would have been used? I have zero problem with getting it all off and putting fresh on as clean as the rest of it is turning out. I've tried just about every solvent you can think of and it doesn't budge it, the stains that is.
Could be anodized? Depending on what caused the stain, it could be stained into the base metal, in which case you would want to grind it all off and start fresh. Just more work, is all.
SEBSPEED, Jan 12 2008, 10:47 AMCould be anodized? Depending on what caused the stain, it could be stained into the base metal, in which case you would want to grind it all off and start fresh. Just more work, is all.
I stand corrected, it had some sort of paint or perhaps a powdercoat silver. I took a wire wheel to it and got all the stains caused by battery acid off and got it to the base metal, now to try and figure out what to coat it with again. That will be tomorrows task.
So today my task was to remove the swing arm. Thanks to a board member I was able to borrow the proper wrench to remove the swing arm pivot bolt. After that was removed it was only the easy part of the task. Getting that sucker out was a royal PIA to do alone but after a few choice words and a 2x4 I got it out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) This is how nasty it was. And these don't even show the bottom side where it was total FUNK. (IMG:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c118/flyonwall9/BIKE45004.jpg)
While it was soaking with some aircraft stripper I took the the parts that make up the rear of the bike in the shop for a clean and or polish, some got a fresh coat of paint. Notice the ole tired shock at the top and my new unit, it should handle so much better.
While those dried I put my front wheel back together after I repainted the rotors and wheel. This go round I wanted to try and different paint on the wheel. I have used wheel paint and it would hold for 8 months or so, cant afford to have them powder coated so I used appliance epoxy. I have used this paint with outstanding results before so it was worth a shot for only a few bucks a can. A few drops of lock tight on the bolts and its ready for the wheel bearings and spacer. (IMG:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c118/flyonwall9/BIKE45009.jpg)
Tomorrow, I will figure out what to coat the swing arm with and hope to put the rear back together with fresh grease in the hub, and swing arm bearings. Also, I am going to fill the casting holes with spray foam to stop those little pebbles from getting in my hub.
I hit a wall today, well not really but the bike fell over while I was putting the front end back together. I got the head race bearings greased, and tripples back on with key switch. Ran the wires in a more hidden route than stock that looks much cleaner. Put the newly painted front legs back on. Started putting on the front wheel with me sitting on the ground lifting the wheel with my leg so that I could slide in the axle when doing so the bike tipped off its blocks and landed on my left leg. OUCH. But nothing was hurt namely me. Just a pain in the neck because I have to figure out a way to block it back up so that I can get the swing arm back in place.
In my down time I finished painting the swing arm, filled it with foam so that I don't get the debris from the front casting holes to jam up the hub AGAIN. I also cleaned the chain guide really well and debur its screw holes and found some new stainless screws at Home Depot. I also ground down the upper shock mount so it would fit the frame, and lower mount so the shock would fit it.
I hope tomorrow to find an engine hoist so that I can get the bike off the ground and blocked back up. I may be far enough along where I can put both wheels back on and not have the problem again.
I still have some tidbits to clean and repaint like the kickstand and various other little bits and brackets.
Hope to have some pics tomorrow, sorry none today.
tok tokkie, Jan 12 2008, 11:05 AMWouldn't having it glass bead blasted clean up the swingarm. I seem to recall that they even use salt or some other crystals or plastic beads to gently clean stuff with a blaster.
Ok so I glass blasted the swing arm and its bits after I used aircraft stripper. Thinking it would just oxidize I thought I would paint it. The first color made it look too chrome the second too dark, this one looks in a picture to have a blue tent to it but I think its just the over head light cuz in the sun its dead on close to stock, only thing is it does have some flake in it VERY small but still.
I put the hub, bearing carrier(eccentric), break caliper bracket, split ring, sprocket carrier and sprocket on.
PROBLEM is, the splines on the left side(gear side) over hang the sprocket carrier. So, if I were to tighten the bolt to the carrier it would have slack. IF a pic would help I can do so. Other wise what would be my best fix? Can the hub halfs be repressed, it seems as though one has pulled from the other, prehaps over torqued on the left side pulling them apart slightly.
BRIDGES HAVE BEEN BUILT AND LAND MASSES HAVE BEEN CROSSED (IMG:style_emoticons/default/goofy.gif)
I've had a hair in my arse from the day I figured my hub wasn't going to work with my bearing carrier... So, while I lay awake I decided to have a shem cut for the left side of the hub(sprocket side) a hair under 1/4" prolly some mm I don't know. Anyway, it worked like a champ, correct space, and now it even seals on the bearing dust seal. I was siked... Slid on the hub then the sprocket carrier. MONEY shot! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif) (IMG:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c118/flyonwall9/bikerear4.jpg)
I couldn't leave well enough alone so I put the freshly painted sub frame on used Sebs suggestion about the KY for the black plastic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) Seemed to work well REAL WELL! THANKS SEB! I still have a few more apps to do on the tag part but its getting better.
I couldn't stop at that I had to mock up the rear fairing and see what adjustments I may need to make. So I found I may need to do some alignment just hoping the subframe isn't bent. Cool part is I discovered that the RC30 rear fairing screws work on this bike so I have local access rather than overseas... (IMG:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c118/flyonwall9/bikerear1.jpg)
I wonder if that taillight is the same size(roughly) as the RC51... a clear integrated LED light would look tits in there... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/warranty.gif)
SEBSPEED, Jan 22 2008, 10:32 PMNice progress again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
I wonder if that taillight is the same size(roughly) as the RC51... a clear integrated LED light would look tits in there... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/warranty.gif)
I dunno.... It would look sheet hot!
I took the rear fairing over to Tharkun's place to see scale of it vs the RC30 they are the same size I do think. I would have to try and put it on his sub frame to be sure but side by side they are exact. I think I have a picture of it...
SEBSPEED, Jan 22 2008, 10:32 PMNice progress again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
I wonder if that taillight is the same size(roughly) as the RC51... a clear integrated LED light would look tits in there... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/warranty.gif)
I dunno.... It would look sheet hot!
I took the rear fairing over to Tharkun's place to see scale of it vs the RC30 they are the same size I do think. I would have to try and put it on his sub frame to be sure but side by side they are exact. I think I have a picture of it...
Will those lights fit in the RC30?
Dunno, but I'm sure someone here can help you out if you pose the question. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
LONG TIME FROM the last post here. Making a bit of progress. I now have all the rear fairings primed. I'll work to getting the upper and lower in the same shape the rest of the week now that my lid is almost done. Then I have to put them all back on the bike so I can lay out the stripe. I gotta rock and roll on this thing its killin me not to ride when its nice out. No need to post pics of primed fairings. When I lay color I'll post up. Stay tuned.
Sure will (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wheel.gif) And good to hear you're feeling well enough to start working on the bike again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
Made some progress today, didn't take pics way too dusty to drag out my high dollah camera (IMG:style_emoticons/default/491.gif) ...
Finished primed the lower fairing, really did this as a guide coat to see what I couldn't see with the kittyhair. Now I know what I need to spot fill. Also, worked more on the upper. Its really in bad shape after the slide, I would have been better off getting new ones I think but money is tight. Wish I had taken before pics so you guys could have seen what I was dealing with before hand.
I did run into a really odd problem. My front finder/mud guard is warped some how. The back end is in effect rubbing on the tire. So, for now I will do the Seb mod and cut the thing down some where the rub is. I measured from every possible point to see if my forks got twisted in the slide. Looks like they are straight.
ANYONE have any idea's where I can measure from to see if they may be out of wack? I tried every possible adjustment to make the finder fit without rubbing no go. It wasn't doing this before the slide.
I'll see about posting some pics tomorrow to make the thread a bit better.
WHELP, I have gotten lots done over the past few days even more than the pics will show. The bottom front fairing is all done after having so much rash you could almost pass a coke can through the side of it. I glassed the inside, kitty hair the outside, body filler, then spot puddy. Its almost perfect, almost (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) ... The rear is another story its as close to perfect as I can get it, so I masked it off today and sprayed it. Pics of that tomorrow. The front upper still needs to filler, and rubbin to get close to perfect. It was almost cracked in half on the right side. I've glassed it a couple of times and kitty hair, next will be some body filler and try and make it look as close to factory as possible.
On with the pics: This is the side that had the really bad rash, if I had to do it again I would just buy a new lower. I guess I just like to prove to myself that I can do things, so I fixed it. Its very hard to tell where it was screwed up. (IMG:http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c118/flyonwall9/paint001-1.jpg)
This side had some really bad heat bubbles in the glass by the front vent, those were pretty hard to fix because where they were, you can see these more so than the bad rash on the other side, go figure.
The rear is the factory rear, I'm lucky to have one that is in such good shape they are VERY hard to find and next to impossible to find in this shape. I did have to fix a few small cracks and some rash from shipping in the wooden box. I did mask it all off today and lay down some red(HELL'S YES!) laid down the pinstripe and started back masking to lay down the white. I am changing the factory paint some on the rear with a bit more pin stripe to make it easier to paint. It should look ok. I HOPE!
Seb, I really have no clue what colors go first, or had now I do I guess. I wasn't going to over lap any of the paint and haven't so far on the rear. It would have prolly made the red pop more if I did... WELL HELL, I guess I will see what it looks like tomorrow in the sun. My shop lights SUCK...
LEMME ASK YA THOUGH....
Would it be best to air brush up to the red rather than use the detail spray gun so that it doesn't have such of a large transition? That is what I'm thinking anyway, again I've been wrong on this project many times.
The light I haven't looked into changing from stock yet. I may in time if they fit. The thing is the left and right fairing are held in place mostly with the light then that middle filler part goes on.
You always want to shoot your lighter colors first, not just for base, but because the lighter color is more easily covered by a darker color. What I'm saying is, you'll use more white paint to cover the red(and get your desired non-pink color), than you would to get a nice coat of red over the white.
It's easy to say, "well, I've got plenty of white paint", but, the more coats you put on, the higher the risk of it cracking/peeling/separating later on.
I would have shot most of the tail white, then masked off the white area and shot the red.
I probably would have molded the tail section into one piece too while I was at it(then again I haven't held these parts in my hands). Would you still be able to remove the tail from the bike if it was all one piece?
Not sure what you mean by the transition thing, if you meant having a thicker paint edge, you can maybe go lighter(with the spray) at the edges(if you can do that and still get the coverage you need), or, shoot it, then knock the edge down with a little 1500 grit wet paper before clear. Honestly, it shouldn't be so thick that it becomes an issue. Just clear it in man!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
I can empathize, I had my first stone past last year....Ouch, and it does not sound near as severe as yours. BTW, I am interested on how you did clean up your blinkers!!! If you get a chance, that would be great!!
VFanatic, Apr 1 2008, 09:22 AMI can empathize, I had my first stone past last year....Ouch, and it does not sound near as severe as yours. BTW, I am interested on how you did clean up your blinkers!!! If you get a chance, that would be great!!
A
Thanks the kidneys are doing much better now if I can only get my near broken back working for me I'll be tip-top (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
The blinkers, first thing is to sand the rash down with say 320 grit paper careful not to sand through them because they are super thin. Then with a bench buffer and a light hand you just buff the plastic. I did use some medium compound polish. DON'T press hard on the buffing wheel or it will burn the plastic. Just a light touch. Thats pretty much it. YOu can also polish the lenses the same way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif) ...
Back masked over the red then sprayed the white on my rear fairing and front mud guard. I laid down two thin coats, after that dried I wet sanded off all the over spray, then wet sanded all of it with 1000 grit. Washed it all off let it dry good then hit it with a tack rag. Sprayed two coats of clear... Amazed at how much nicer REAL paint is over rattle can.
Going to wet sand with 2000 tomorrow then use some fine cut wax and polish and call those parts done (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif) ..
Spent 3 hours with my back doc and them working on my back, so I was unable to wet sand, and sand out one run, and apply 2nd coat of clear. Hope tomorrow I will be able to finish it off.
Had a bit of a set back. My rear fairing..... My water separator didn't do its job. I had some bubbles prolly 15 or so, also, I didn't like how inaccurate my masking was in the color seperation. So, I sanded it all down reprimed and now has it masked correctly.
This weekend I mocked it all up on the bike. All fairings and got all the proper holes redrilled after all my glass work. I then masked off all fairings so that lines from front to rear would match better. Repainted the insides of all the fairings so that once painted it would have the correct over spray on the inside of the fairings.
Just waiting on a 68deg or above rain free day and its color time. All else is done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
I didn't like how the rear turned out so I refinished them. This one is 100% done. Its been wetsanded, fine cut polished and 4 coats of finish polish. The other still needs some work, the fill panel around the lights is done also. The lower fairing, I still need to fix the white the red is all done and the pinstripe is done also. This paint is VERY tricky to work with where rattle can is so much easier to work with, I would have though this would be easier than can paint. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pissed.gif)
Very nice! I'm sure now that you will be done with yours before I get to think about finishing mine! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
Finished all but the tank and decals, its not perfect prolly about a 2ft paint job I would say. But its fine for the road, I'll get a better set and paint them perfect if I ever take it to any shows.
I took this thing all the way to base metal inside and out. As you can see I have a few small issues to deal with before I paint it. Those were bondoed today, I've got to wait for them to dry and on with the sanding. Then two more coats of primer and color. Hope I can have the base white laid down by the weekend.
