I just changed out my fork oil for the first time, and after putting everything back together, the left side front brake caliper is rubbing against the rotor near the outer edge.
I took off the brake caliper and cleaned it up and remounted, sure enough, it's still the same. Anyone have any ideas why?
You likely need to loosen the front axle pinch bolts off, plus the big bolt on the end of the axle and slide it in the correct direction to alleviate your rubbing.
Best done with the bike on the C-stand, and the front end elevated slightly.
There is a feeler gauge in a little pocket on the backside of the OEM tool bag that is 0.7mm
You should have at least that much clearance between your caliper and the rotor.
This is outlined in the FSM, not sure about the owners manual, but probably there too.
You also need to assemble & torque the axle and pinch bolts in a specified procedure, which also involves pumping your front brakes and the front of the bike up & down to center the forks.
thanks for the tips! I'm looking in the "FSM" and 12-4 doesn't say anything about measurement. For some reason 12-5 is a blank page.
I've got the axle torqued correctly, I accidentally broke one of the pinch bolts (don't ask) on the right side.
Can someone grab a screen shot of 12-5 for me?
you just need to make sure there clearance on both sides of the rotor with regards to the caliper , you have to shine a flash light up in there to see.
being you snapp ed the bolt, that is the adjustment so you'll have to fix that first, you know that was a 14 ftlb pinch bolt
still can't figure it out. In inside of the rotor of the right side is rubbing, I thought that putting a shim behind the brake pad would assist in centering it more, but i don't have any thing hard shims.
I removed the wheel agian, put everything back on, and still the same. The only thing I can think of is putting a washer between the brake caliper and fork thus moving the caliber in more.
broken bolt has been fixed (this was on the left side)
still can't figure it out. In inside of the rotor of the right side is rubbing, I thought that putting a shim behind the brake pad would assist in centering it more, but i don't have any thing hard shims.
I removed the wheel agian, put everything back on, and still the same. The only thing I can think of is putting a washer between the brake caliper and fork thus moving the caliber in more.
broken bolt has been fixed (this was on the left side)
the caliper is mounted to the fork leg, after torquing the axle, you adust the left side fork leg in or out to have the right clearance.
your talking the left caliper correct when sitting on the bike, the left?
are ya sure the rotor is rubbiing and not just the normalcy of the pads to drag. you should see a gap on both side of the rotor not touching the cliper, about 30 thousancths on both sides of clearnce.
Left side, facing bike.
Left side has a longer spacer, right side a shorter one.
Installation: both forks set at the same height.
install and torque center axle wheel bolt/nut
install and torque pinch bolts
mount the calibers, and hand screw bolts in
shine flash light, right side inside is touching the rotor.
Left side, facing bike. Left side has a longer spacer, right side a shorter one.
Installation: both forks set at the same height. install and torque center axle wheel bolt/nut install and torque pinch bolts mount the calibers, and hand screw bolts in shine flash light, right side inside is touching the rotor.
If I recall rightly, there's your problem, the long spacer goes on the right and the short spacer on the left. This would set the wheel further to the left, thus moving the inner face of the rotor you confirm is rubbing, further to the left... away from the calliper body against which it rubs. The feeler was for measuring the gap between the calliper body and the rotor, not the pads...
Left side, facing bike. Left side has a longer spacer, right side a shorter one.
Installation: both forks set at the same height. install and torque center axle wheel bolt/nut install and torque pinch bolts mount the calibers, and hand screw bolts in shine flash light, right side inside is touching the rotor.
okay, I understand , but thats the right side pad set, I agree the longer spacer belongs on the left pad set , or with your orientation it would go on the right side facing the bike.
I can't get an accurate measure with it assembled because the spacer goes into the dust seal but there's 20mm projecting. I was incorrect about the number of spacers as there is also a smaller one on the left side, I forgot it was there because it never falls out. I can do some accurate measurements in 12 hrs or so.
I wouldn't panic about the idle screw, should be easy to find another screw/spring that will do that job. Mine is just barely making contact with the starter valve plate, with the starter valve synched the bike idles very close to 1300rpm even with the idle screw backed out.
Have you sorted your disc/caliper interface issue??
Yes he sorted the disc issue,he actually found the idle adjuster bolt with the spring still on it somewhere inside the fairing,he managed to set the idle ok and balanced the throttle bodies,he hasn't been able to refit the adjuster bolt though for some reason but I'll talk to him about that again at some stage,he's a good mate and done all the difficult jobs for me,the bike is running sweet now,
next up is to get an end can,the stock exhaust is in pefect condition but it's too quiet for my liking,looking into some different options,think I'll keep it low level,might go for Fuel or maybe venom exhaust,unless I come across a secondhand one,they don't seem to be any on ebay,might try a few bike breakers.
End of thread · 18 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 21 Jun 2015
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