Stator?

I have searched this and the info is very helpful, but I do have a question. According to the manual (as I read it anyway) there is supposed to be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms resistance between each of the three yellow wires coming from the stator. I am assuming this means that I check this by putting the terminals from my tester on two of the three wires (ie. A & B, B & C, and C & A) and should have a resistance of 0.1 - 1.0 ohms all three ways. Is this correct?? And if so, if I have continuity all three ways does that mean I have a bad stator??

The bike ('99) is fine when running (no issues when running), but on long rides the battery dies. I can take lots of short rides with no problems at all, but a longer ride (several hours) will kill it every time. I have checked the voltage while riding, and it seams reasonable (@ 12.75v under load - 13.20v at idle) at first (or for rides less than 30min. or so). The longer I ride, the lower the charging voltage gets (have seen it as low as 11.88v). The bike has never died on me while riding, just won't start again after long rides.

Is this just the stator, or do I maybe have other problems??

Thanks,

Skipp

sloskipp, Jul 26 2008, 05:27 PMI have searched this and the info is very helpful, but I do have a question. According to the manual (as I read it anyway) there is supposed to be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms resistance between each of the three yellow wires coming from the stator. I am assuming this means that I check this by putting the terminals from my tester on two of the three wires (ie. A & B, B & C, and C & A) and should have a resistance of 0.1 - 1.0 ohms all three ways. Is this correct?? And if so, if I have continuity all three ways does that mean I have a bad stator??

The bike ('99) is fine when running (no issues when running), but on long rides the battery dies. I can take lots of short rides with no problems at all, but a longer ride (several hours) will kill it every time. I have checked the voltage while riding, and it seams reasonable (@ 12.75v under load - 13.20v at idle) at first (or for rides less than 30min. or so). The longer I ride, the lower the charging voltage gets (have seen it as low as 11.88v). The bike has never died on me while riding, just won't start again after long rides.

Is this just the stator, or do I maybe have other problems??

Thanks,

Skipp

you WANT continuity between each leg of the stator. all 3 should measure within the spec. this would indicate good. there is also an AC voltage level to look for too (50VAC? dont quote me on that, but it is in the manual.)

your voltage level is definitely TOO LOW. stator or r/r is going bad i believe.

turtlecreek, Jul 26 2008, 06:42 PMyou WANT continuity between each leg of the stator. all 3 should measure within the spec. this would indicate good. there is also an AC voltage level to look for too (50VAC? dont quote me on that, but it is in the manual.)

your voltage level is definitely TOO LOW. stator or r/r is going bad i believe.

Didn't see anything in the manual about AC voltage. Do you know where it is in the manual??

Checked the r/r it checked out good. Also did the diode check on the r/r, and all diodes read well within spec.

turtlecreek, Jul 26 2008, 06:42 PMyou WANT continuity between each leg of the stator. all 3 should measure within the spec. this would indicate good.

I've got continuity, but I do not have any resistance shown between any of the 3 legs.

I did some more searching, and it seams that the r/r could still be bad even if it tests good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) . Something about it changing as it heats up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) ? Is there a way to test the r/r while the bike is running? Every post I have found tests it while disconnected. Did this and it tests good. I have also found that the natural connector (stator to r/r) gets quite hot while riding. I have taken the connector apart, and one of the terminals is slightly discolored (brown) from heat, but not really all that bad, and it is not corroded. I guess I'm still not sure if my problem is the stator or the r/r. Is there any way to know for sure, or do I just need to replace one at a time to find out??

turtlecreek, Jul 26 2008, 03:42 PM

sloskipp, Jul 26 2008, 05:27 PMI have searched this and the info is very helpful, but I do have a question. According to the manual (as I read it anyway) there is supposed to be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms resistance between each of the three yellow wires coming from the stator. I am assuming this means that I check this by putting the terminals from my tester on two of the three wires (ie. A & B, B & C, and C & A) and should have a resistance of 0.1 - 1.0 ohms all three ways. Is this correct?? And if so, if I have continuity all three ways does that mean I have a bad stator??

The bike ('99) is fine when running (no issues when running), but on long rides the battery dies. I can take lots of short rides with no problems at all, but a longer ride (several hours) will kill it every time. I have checked the voltage while riding, and it seams reasonable (@ 12.75v under load - 13.20v at idle) at first (or for rides less than 30min. or so). The longer I ride, the lower the charging voltage gets (have seen it as low as 11.88v). The bike has never died on me while riding, just won't start again after long rides.

Is this just the stator, or do I maybe have other problems??

Thanks,

Skipp

you WANT continuity between each leg of the stator. all 3 should measure within the spec. this would indicate good. there is also an AC voltage level to look for too (50VAC? dont quote me on that, but it is in the manual.)

your voltage level is definitely TOO LOW. stator or r/r is going bad i believe.

You need to do both the ohm test and the AC current test while bike is running. I have gotten ohm tests withing specs and have the AC test be off - leading me the bad stator. You should get something above 50 volts. If all three are above and close to each other then you stator is OK. I had one reading at 35 so I pulled it and this is what it looked like: (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1216091335/gallery_9409_3023_364262.jpg)
Fried Stator?

After seeing this, it confirmed my testing was correct. I installed a new stator from Ricks and all my charging operated as it should.

Good luck brother!

I have looked for a post about doing an AC voltage test on the stator, but with no luck. How do I perform this test?? I have a service manual, but do not see it in there either. Any help would be great, thanks.

sloskipp, Jul 26 2008, 05:52 PM

turtlecreek, Jul 26 2008, 06:42 PMyou WANT continuity between each leg of the stator. all 3 should measure within the spec. this would indicate good. there is also an AC voltage level to look for too (50VAC? dont quote me on that, but it is in the manual.)

your voltage level is definitely TOO LOW. stator or r/r is going bad i believe.

Didn't see anything in the manual about AC voltage. Do you know where it is in the manual??

Checked the r/r it checked out good. Also did the diode check on the r/r, and all diodes read well within spec.

i am not following you here. if you have continuity, you have resistance in the stator as it is wound wire which has resistance. are you saying you are reading ZERO ohms on each phase?

Put the meter on A.C. Then go between any and all of the wires. You should get about 50 or 60 volts of A.C. at any point and all the readings no matter what combination of wires you choose should be about the same.

The only thing I am not exactly sure of is if this test should be done with the stator wires removed or still connected.

I tested a stator on a Yamaha with the wires removed and got about 50- 60 volts from it.

turtlecreek, Jul 26 2008, 10:47 PMi am not following you here. if you have continuity, you have resistance in the stator as it is wound wire which has resistance. are you saying you are reading ZERO ohms on each phase?

I get the tone for continuity on each phase, but I do not get a numerical reading at all on any phase.

IntAceptor, Jul 26 2008, 11:15 PMPut the meter on A.C. Then go between any and all of the wires. You should get about 50 or 60 volts of A.C. at any point and all the readings no matter what combination of wires you choose should be about the same.

The only thing I am not exactly sure of is if this test should be done with the stator wires removed or still connected.

I tested a stator on a Yamaha with the wires removed and got about 50- 60 volts from it.

Thanks, I will try that tonight.
I guess I will try it both ways, connected and disconnected, and see what I get.
Don't think it should matter though, as it should be putting out power either way (connected or not).

sloskipp, Jul 26 2008, 08:18 PMI did some more searching, and it seams that the r/r could still be bad even if it tests good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) . Something about it changing as it heats up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) ? Is there a way to test the r/r while the bike is running? Every post I have found tests it while disconnected. Did this and it tests good. I have also found that the natural connector (stator to r/r) gets quite hot while riding. I have taken the connector apart, and one of the terminals is slightly discolored (brown) from heat, but not really all that bad, and it is not corroded. I guess I'm still not sure if my problem is the stator or the r/r. Is there any way to know for sure, or do I just need to replace one at a time to find out??

Talked to my brother today (he is an electrical technician and understands this stuff better than I do) and he tells me it is very possible for the r/r to be shot yet still function and test properly when cold. He said that it is very common for a diode to get burned out without being completely fried (in other words works when cold but once warmed up will act as though it is fried). Just a heads up for anyone else with ghost charging problems on their bike!!