I had my recall completed at 32k miles. The bike now has 42k miles.
When I got the bike new, I kept watch of the 30 amp fuse, connector and wires. The red wire with the white tracer started to get hot and brittle at around 10k miles. I put in a bigger gauge wire and all was fine. When the dealer did the recall, I got all new harnesses. The main harness was replaced as well.
I have been checking the wire and fuse and this evening I see the wire has been hot, seems brittle and the red is more of a brown.
THE PICTURES DO SHOW SOME OF THE BROWNING OF THE WIRE. IT LOOKS RED. IN PERSON IT IS MORE BROWN, YOU MAY NOTICE A FLAT SPOT ON THE WIRE. THE FUSE LOOKS FINE. WHAT NOW?????????
I havent had any issues but I dont want any. What do you electrical experts think? I have no electrical accesories, only a volt meter.
Damn it, they didn't give me back my old fuse holder, I am going to have to buy another one. At least I still have my VFRness.
Another thing I noticed regarding the recall, when I had my own wiring and/or the VFRness installed, my voltage would not deviate more than a couple tenths of a volt from 14.4 at any RPM, with any load, including the fan and high beams on. With the recall harness installed, voltage varies wildly from 13.8-14.6 :dry:
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 24 2008, 08:30 PM, said:
My 06 50, 000 mile came with same harness new, and those wires are still in perfect condition
I would think connections have some resitance or something , did you ohm them on both side of the connector?
i notice in your pic the fuse doesnt look fully seated, like cock eyed
Considering the weather cover on the fuse holder is open I would venture to guess the fuse is halfway out to show for the picture.
[image: View Post]marid2apterbilt, on Oct 24 2008, 08:49 PM, said:
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 24 2008, 08:30 PM, said:
My 06 50, 000 mile came with same harness new, and those wires are still in perfect condition
I would think connections have some resitance or something , did you ohm them on both side of the connector?
i notice in your pic the fuse doesnt look fully seated, like cock eyed
Considering the weather cover on the fuse holder is open I would venture to guess the fuse is halfway out to show for the picture.
NOT installed wrong..
True, but the whole point is there's restance in the connections, causing the heat build up, a mis seated fuse might be a culprit, uless like you mention it was just knocked out of position opening it. I personally prep all my connection and insure they have perfect continuity though the connectors. Zero ohms
Looks like normal Honda failure. Given the fact that the recall really didn't address the charging issues, but rather the blue connector issue, I foresee an increased need for 6th Gen VFRness's.....I guess I will go order more plugs!
I haven't had the recall installed, my fuse connector is still perfect (although I am starting to show signs of Stator or R/R troubles, based on the yellow wires heating up at times....monitoring that situation now)
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 24 2008, 09:13 PM, said:
Looks like normal Honda failure. Given the fact that the recall really didn't address the charging issues, but rather the blue connector issue, I foresee an increased need for 6th Gen VFRness's.....I guess I will go order more plugs!
I haven't had the recall installed, my fuse connector is still perfect (although I am starting to show signs of Stator or R/R troubles, based on the yellow wires heating up at times....monitoring that situation now)
what charging issues? have you ohmed through all connectors, I've never seen a bike that didnt need prepping and rountine checking on these matters.
my last stator failure on another bike was shorted stator but no heat detriment to the wires, why does the wires like to char at the connectors?
Its lack of continuity through the connector IMHO , I just havent had the issue, becuse I prep and test , I'm not running the green wire fix on the vfr
last time I check the connector it was great condition, I've done so a few times
I posted this in another thread too, but it bears repeating:
Tim (cassandtim) and I significantly upgraded his new recall harness to prevent problems that some guys have already been having. I'm not sure it's true of every new harness, but on Tim's the 12V sense wire was pretty immediately tied into the red/white wires out of the R/R, somewhat avoiding the issue of traversing the front harness and a bunch of loads that vary the voltage.
All we did was splice in two 10-gauge (overkill, but it was handy at the time) ground wires to the green R/R wires and run them directly to chassis ground on the frame aft of the rear cylinder head, then spliced in two 12V wires to the red R/R wires and ran them into a single heavy duty fuse holder (you could use two; we only had one handy and figured it was enough. If you use three holders, go with a 15A (15 amp) fuse where the 30A fuse is presently, and use a 10A in each of the new fuse holders; you should have no problems with blown fuses) before connecting directly to 12V "+" at the battery. We swapped the 30A main fuse for a 20A and put a 15 amp in the new fuse holder (for a total potential of 35A), and have had no problems. If I remember correctly, voltage now reads a rock solid 14.3-14.4V at all revs/loads, whereas before it was 13.9 at idle and over-charging at mid to high revs.
His red/white 30A wire should never get hot now.
It is incredibly damn stupid that Honda feeds the battery via the R/R through that fuse. They even merge the two beefy red wires from the R/R into one; you guessed it, the still-too-small red/white wire. Make sure and fix Honda's fix. :dry:
After the wiring recall last February I still had my third stator failure so I replaced the stator, rotor, rectifier, and battery on my '02. All was up to spec. Then on a recent ride, couple hours of hot city driving, the voltage suddenly drops from 14.1V to 13.6V and has stayed there. At the low end of normal I start to worry again. The 30 amp fuse wire is also heating up enough to discolor. I checked cleaned and greased the connectors to no avail.
Not wanting to get stranded again I replaced the new recall fuse holder and 2" of wire with an ATO heavy-duty in-line fuse holder with 12 ga wire on it from the auto parts store. Also I noticed comparing the before and after recall wiring diagrams that the rectifier sensor wire now ties in just downstream of the rectifier so it would not compensate for voltage loss at the fuse so I reconnected it at the new fuse holder. This brought up the system voltage at 5000 rpm to 14.3V.
It appears to me that the wiring recall 30 amp fuse holder and R/R monitor wire routing is an improvement but still is weak. Thanks to the information I have received here at VFRD I am able to diagnose and repair my bike and if I missed something here please let me know. Thanks VFRD.
[image: View Post]Bad Boy, on Oct 24 2008, 07:52 PM, said:
The rectifier sensor wire now ties in just downstream of the rectifier so it would not compensate for voltage loss at the fuse so I reconnected it at the new fuse holder. This brought up the system voltage at 5000 rpm to 14.3V.
It appears to me that the wiring recall 30 amp fuse holder and R/R monitor wire routing is an improvement but still is weak.
Exactly.
Anyone with the new harness really needs to tie into the red wires at the R/R and go to a fuse holder, then directly to battery positive (and don't forget the lower rated fuses!). This accomplishes three things: allows much freer flow of current (and therefore less resistance in the red/white wire, which is what melts it) to accessories; allows the R/R's voltage-sensing wire to have a straight path to the battery, which does wonders for correcting erratic charge voltage; and allows the R/R to pump electrons straight into the battery instead of through a ridiculously constricted and circuitous path (yes, still true with the new harness).
The reason to add R/R grounds directly to the chassis is that all the grounds that used to go through the infamous green wire in the blue connector (they no longer do in the recall harness) now come across the right side of the bike in the form of a nice new heavier-gauge wire and catch the grounds from the R/R before taking a long trip to - IIRC; correct me if I'm wrong - the battery and then the chassis. Adding extra ground wires from the R/R directly to the chassis will keep all those circuits happy, especially once you add farkles and billion-candlepower headlights. Come on, you know you wanna...
Sorry to hear Honda's fix is fuxed. Not surprised I guess. I don't like to laugh at other peoples' misfortune, and I'm not laughing, it really is offensive and I will soon be down some three or four hundred Euros in order to fix Stator and R/R issues on my '03 VTEC. As you all propbably have read in my posts, Spain isn't on the recall bandwagon. I have Tightwad's (Wiremybike.com) VFRness installed and when my Stator died and the system went bezerk, it probably saved the rest of the harness and its connectors from suffering during peak overloads.
So no, I'm not laughing, but almost relieved to know I can beef up my wires and probably won't be much worse off. I was a very angry consumer when I found out Honda won't cover my faulty stator or wiring harness here in Spain. So, sorry, but it is an odd sort of relief to know the word "fix" on this ocassion is really a misnomer. I'm not glad Soichiro's having more dramas, I just feel less angry about the fact the Honda Montesa (Spain) hasn't offered the harness recall seeing as it isn't really a perfect fix.
Give 'em hell Soichiro!! That wire is definitely frying up.
[image: View Post]magellan, on Oct 25 2008, 03:26 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Bad Boy, on Oct 24 2008, 07:52 PM, said:
The rectifier sensor wire now ties in just downstream of the rectifier so it would not compensate for voltage loss at the fuse so I reconnected it at the new fuse holder. This brought up the system voltage at 5000 rpm to 14.3V.
It appears to me that the wiring recall 30 amp fuse holder and R/R monitor wire routing is an improvement but still is weak.
Exactly.
Anyone with the new harness really needs to tie into the red wires at the R/R and go to a fuse holder, then directly to battery positive (and don't forget the lower rated fuses!). This accomplishes three things: allows much freer flow of current (and therefore less resistance in the red/white wire, which is what melts it) to accessories; allows the R/R's voltage-sensing wire to have a straight path to the battery, which does wonders for correcting erratic charge voltage; and allows the R/R to pump electrons straight into the battery instead of through a ridiculously constricted and circuitous path (yes, still true with the new harness).
The reason to add R/R grounds directly to the chassis is that all the grounds that used to go through the infamous green wire in the blue connector (they no longer do in the recall harness) now come across the right side of the bike in the form of a nice new heavier-gauge wire and catch the grounds from the R/R before taking a long trip to - IIRC; correct me if I'm wrong - the battery and then the chassis. Adding extra ground wires from the R/R directly to the chassis will keep all those circuits happy, especially once you add farkles and billion-candlepower headlights. Come on, you know you wanna...
Tightwad,
Doesn't the VFRness take care of this or will I have to still modify the recall fix? My bike is in the shop now waiting on wiring harness parts. The techs were good with not removing/destroying the VFRness. My 30amp fuse was cooked before I got it, so I that's the only part that they are replacing.
Since I have an 07 VFR do I need to be concerned about this little "item"? It is really rude when your ride catches fire! Lost an expensive Harley that way. Thanks.
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 24 2008, 09:17 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 24 2008, 09:13 PM, said:
Looks like normal Honda failure. Given the fact that the recall really didn't address the charging issues, but rather the blue connector issue, I foresee an increased need for 6th Gen VFRness's.....I guess I will go order more plugs!
I haven't had the recall installed, my fuse connector is still perfect (although I am starting to show signs of Stator or R/R troubles, based on the yellow wires heating up at times....monitoring that situation now)
what charging issues? have you ohmed through all connectors, I've never seen a bike that didnt need prepping and rountine checking on these matters.
my last stator failure on another bike was shorted stator but no heat detriment to the wires, why does the wires like to char at the connectors?
Its lack of continuity through the connector IMHO , I just havent had the issue, becuse I prep and test , I'm not running the green wire fix on the vfr
last time I check the connector it was great condition, I've done so a few times
The connectors should NOT have to be "prepped". The problem is not in the connectors, they just happen to be the failure point. The problem is in the design of the R/R, and the limited current path to the battery and to ground. When you increase the ability for the R/R to transmit the current as needed, the symptoms of burned connectors goes away.
[image: View Post]motorhead1977, on Oct 25 2008, 08:21 AM, said:
Since I have an 07 VFR do I need to be concerned about this little "item"? It is really rude when your ride catches fire! Lost an expensive Harley that way. Thanks.
IMO it is a matter of time, but no one knows until they begin to get older and have more time to show issues.
[image: View Post]motorhead1977, on Oct 25 2008, 06:21 AM, said:
Since I have an 07 VFR do I need to be concerned about this little "item"? It is really rude when your ride catches fire! Lost an expensive Harley that way. Thanks.
It is not likely you will have problems. My '02 didn't start until 16 months ago after 40k miles. It seems that more affected bikes are in climates like Seattle where we drive in the drizzle thus more corrosion. We post about all our problems here on VFRD which makes it sound like an epidemic when it is likely a very small percentage experiencing this problem.
Keep an eye on the 30 amp main fuse for getting too hot. If later bikes start having problems you will read about it here at VFRD and Tightwad will fix us up.
True, but the whole point is there's restance in the connections, causing the heat build up, a mis seated fuse might be a culprit, uless like you mention it was just knocked out of position opening it. I personally prep all my connection and insure they have perfect continuity though the connectors. Zero ohms
[/quote]
Not to be anal or anything, how are you determining your continuity? If you are just using a digital meter set to the lowest resistance scale you may still have some resistance. EVEN IF YOUR METER DISPLAY READS 0000 OHMS!!! As we all are quite aware of resistance is a load and heat is dissapated at the load. My suggestion for checking your connection resistance is to do a voltage drop test. Use your DVM but set to the lowest volts scale greater than the circuit volts. Most voltage drops are in millivolts so you will most likely be using a mv. scale for connection testiong. Now measure the volts (usually millivolts) across your connection. That means you need the circuit powered and the connection connected as it would be normally. You may be surprised that you will still have some resistance as indicated by the voltage drop across the connection. The lower the voltage reading the lower the resistance. BTW this is the best way to check for blown fuses and failing switches.
After the recall update was done, I decided to leave the monitor wire mod in and my voltage display hooked up too. I haven't yet trusted Honda wiring implicitly.
The fuse was not in completly because I removed it and looked at it. I did notice it wasnt in all the way. This is not the problem, I was just checking everything.
I havent had a problem and according to my volt meter on the bike it is charging fine. It does seem that the charging voltage has dropped a tenth or two. I havent noticed any plastic burning smell like the first time around. I have a couple of the original 30A fuse holders that we were putting in before the recall. I actually keep one in my tank bag along with some electrical bits and tools.
Electrical is my weak point. I understand nuts and bolts so much better.
So, I have read a couple times to add an extra ground or two coming off the RR? Alot of you understand this far better than I. If your reccomendation is to add grounds then that is what I'll do.
I will defintely let my dealer and honda know that their fix is'nt so great. It's disappointing really.
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 25 2008, 09:39 AM, said:
The fuse was not in completly because I removed it and looked at it. I did notice it wasnt in all the way. This is not the problem, I was just checking everything.
I havent had a problem and according to my volt meter on the bike it is charging fine. It does seem that the charging voltage has dropped a tenth or two. I havent noticed any plastic burning smell like the first time around. I have a couple of the original 30A fuse holders that we were putting in before the recall. I actually keep one in my tank bag along with some electrical bits and tools.
Electrical is my weak point. I understand nuts and bolts so much better.
So, I have read a couple times to add an extra ground or two coming off the RR? Alot of you understand this far better than I. If your reccomendation is to add grounds then that is what I'll do.
I will defintely let my dealer and honda know that their fix is'nt so great. It's disappointing really.
Just read the "beefing up dem wires" thread, as well as any about the monitor wire, and you will probably get all the info you need. The monitor wire shouldn't need changed, although I question the way they connected it without relaying the connection....R/Rs tend to suck down the battery based on their design through that wire, if not switched.
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 25 2008, 10:51 AM, said:
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 25 2008, 09:39 AM, said:
The fuse was not in completly because I removed it and looked at it. I did notice it wasnt in all the way. This is not the problem, I was just checking everything.
I havent had a problem and according to my volt meter on the bike it is charging fine. It does seem that the charging voltage has dropped a tenth or two. I havent noticed any plastic burning smell like the first time around. I have a couple of the original 30A fuse holders that we were putting in before the recall. I actually keep one in my tank bag along with some electrical bits and tools.
Electrical is my weak point. I understand nuts and bolts so much better.
So, I have read a couple times to add an extra ground or two coming off the RR? Alot of you understand this far better than I. If your reccomendation is to add grounds then that is what I'll do.
I will defintely let my dealer and honda know that their fix is'nt so great. It's disappointing really.
Just read the "beefing up dem wires" thread, as well as any about the monitor wire, and you will probably get all the info you need. The monitor wire shouldn't need changed, although I question the way they connected it without relaying the connection....R/Rs tend to suck down the battery based on their design through that wire, if not switched.
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 25 2008, 10:51 AM, said:
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 25 2008, 09:39 AM, said:
The fuse was not in completly because I removed it and looked at it. I did notice it wasnt in all the way. This is not the problem, I was just checking everything.
I havent had a problem and according to my volt meter on the bike it is charging fine. It does seem that the charging voltage has dropped a tenth or two. I havent noticed any plastic burning smell like the first time around. I have a couple of the original 30A fuse holders that we were putting in before the recall. I actually keep one in my tank bag along with some electrical bits and tools.
Electrical is my weak point. I understand nuts and bolts so much better.
So, I have read a couple times to add an extra ground or two coming off the RR? Alot of you understand this far better than I. If your reccomendation is to add grounds then that is what I'll do.
I will defintely let my dealer and honda know that their fix is'nt so great. It's disappointing really.
Just read the "beefing up dem wires" thread, as well as any about the monitor wire, and you will probably get all the info you need. The monitor wire shouldn't need changed, although I question the way they connected it without relaying the connection....R/Rs tend to suck down the battery based on their design through that wire, if not switched.
Yup. I never bothered with the recall, due to the fact that you guys are smarter than any Honda clowns. (and you guys care about your bikes). Mother H., just wants the $$$$$$.
[image: View Post]motorhead1977, on Oct 25 2008, 06:21 AM, said:
Since I have an 07 VFR do I need to be concerned about this little "item"? It is really rude when your ride catches fire! Lost an expensive Harley that way. Thanks.
I'd start with the assumption that at very best you have the equivalent of the recall harness. If you'd like the peace of mind that comes with having the job done right, I'd go ahead and beef up your wires, especially if you're comfortable with a bit of electrical work. It's true that you might beat the odds, and a lot of guys aren't having trouble, but I've found problems on 100% of the 6th gens I've examined, even if the bike still seems to run fine. That's alarming!
As far as corrosion being the prime factor in meltdowns, I think it's more of a minor contributor. Heavy current flow through the red/white wire (and the green ground wire in non-recall blue connectors) is a greater issue. Besides, cassandtim thinks his bike will spontaneously turn into a Hyosung if raindrops hit it, so you know it was corrosion-free when it left him on the side of the road in the middle of a 3000-mile trip!
Touch your meter probes together, on ohms , if you cant get the indentical reading thorough the connector , you have resitance in the mechanical connection. FIX IT , its that simple
Hey Tightwad... in the end did you get enough units tested or info to determine whether the switched /non-switched R/Rs could be put down to ABS or Non-ABS models?
I would be inclined to beef up the wires, prep everything use the VFRness and do the recall (not necessarily in that order). Better to cover all possible angles.
[image: View Post]magellan, on Oct 25 2008, 01:02 PM, said:
[image: View Post]motorhead1977, on Oct 25 2008, 06:21 AM, said:
Since I have an 07 VFR do I need to be concerned about this little "item"? It is really rude when your ride catches fire! Lost an expensive Harley that way. Thanks.
I'd start with the assumption that at very best you have the equivalent of the recall harness. If you'd like the peace of mind that comes with having the job done right, I'd go ahead and beef up your wires, especially if you're comfortable with a bit of electrical work. It's true that you might beat the odds, and a lot of guys aren't having trouble, but I've found problems on 100% of the 6th gens I've examined, even if the bike still seems to run fine. That's alarming!
As far as corrosion being the prime factor in meltdowns, I think it's more of a minor contributor. Heavy current flow through the red/white wire (and the green ground wire in non-recall blue connectors) is a greater issue. Besides, cassandtim thinks his bike will spontaneously turn into a Hyosung if raindrops hit it, so you know it was corrosion-free when it left him on the side of the road in the middle of a 3000-mile trip!
Sounds like something to do since it has now gotten cold enough to snow here a few times, though I am sure it will warm up into the 50's a couple of times so I can ride a bit more. And here I though having a new Honda meant no more interesting maintenance projects like all my old ones were. :laugh:
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 25 2008, 03:00 PM, said:
[
Touch your meter probes together, on ohms , if you cant get the indentical reading thorough the connector , you have resitance in the mechanical connection. FIX IT , its that simple
Sorry but continuity is not that simple. Things change once current starts flowing. The best test for continuity is a voltage drop test. You can figure the EXACT resistance of the connection that way. All components of a circuit have a resistance value even the wires and connection points and terminals, not just the load components. I have even seen instances where fuses check good for continuity but open as soon as a little current is applied. Take the current away and the fuse reads good continuity again. You may think this type of circuit testing is overkill but when you do it for a living and have seen the benefits of thorough testing of simple things such as connections you would understand. Heck look at what problems we see in our Hondas, Mostly wire size and connection issues!
Okay, I speak for the electrically challenge, when you guy�s figure this out, please dumb it down with a solution.
Thank you from the electrically challenged.
[image: View Post]Lifttruck, on Oct 26 2008, 07:58 AM, said:
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 25 2008, 03:00 PM, said:
[
Touch your meter probes together, on ohms , if you cant get the indentical reading thorough the connector , you have resitance in the mechanical connection. FIX IT , its that simple
Sorry but continuity is not that simple. Things change once current starts flowing. The best test for continuity is a voltage drop test. You can figure the EXACT resistance of the connection that way. All components of a circuit have a resistance value even the wires and connection points and terminals, not just the load components. I have even seen instances where fuses check good for continuity but open as soon as a little current is applied. Take the current away and the fuse reads good continuity again. You may think this type of circuit testing is overkill but when you do it for a living and have seen the benefits of thorough testing of simple things such as connections you would understand. Heck look at what problems we see in our Hondas, Mostly wire size and connection issues!
I think you crossed the ANAL line LOL
Those that are having issues, they more than likely already have to much connection damage to ever be reliable, alternate route needed in that case, like green wire fix
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 26 2008, 10:09 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Lifttruck, on Oct 26 2008, 07:58 AM, said:
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 25 2008, 03:00 PM, said:
[
Touch your meter probes together, on ohms , if you cant get the indentical reading thorough the connector , you have resitance in the mechanical connection. FIX IT , its that simple
Sorry but continuity is not that simple. Things change once current starts flowing. The best test for continuity is a voltage drop test. You can figure the EXACT resistance of the connection that way. All components of a circuit have a resistance value even the wires and connection points and terminals, not just the load components. I have even seen instances where fuses check good for continuity but open as soon as a little current is applied. Take the current away and the fuse reads good continuity again. You may think this type of circuit testing is overkill but when you do it for a living and have seen the benefits of thorough testing of simple things such as connections you would understand. Heck look at what problems we see in our Hondas, Mostly wire size and connection issues!
I think you crossed the ANAL line LOL
Those that are having issues, they more than likely already have to much connection damage to ever be reliable, alternate route needed in that case, like green wire fix
Sorry but I've been burned by so called simple electrical connection issues too many times in the past in my profession. Just as there is a proper way to FIX IT there is a proper way to DIAGNOSE IT (check it). When it costs time and money overkill is the way to go in all cases. Riding time and extra time to do the repair twice aren't worth it. So if that's too ANAL for you, OH WELL.
When it comes to mc charge wiring , just doing like I mentioned can keep you out of alot of trouble
I dont discount the complexitys like you mention, but its so easy to do the simple stuff, which most dont do till they have issue, and alot of times the issue has progressed to far to be reliable.
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 26 2008, 10:52 AM, said:
When it comes to mc charge wiring , just doing like I mentioned can keep you out of alot of trouble
I dont discount the complexitys like you mention, but its so easy to do the simple stuff, which most dont do till they have issue, and alot of times the issue has progressed to far to be reliable.
AAAHHHH! Here in lies the problem. You refer to voltage drop testing as complex when in reality it is just as easy as continuity testing. The only differing dynamic is you are now checking for continuity with voltage and some level of current present. Or in layman's terms you will be checking the circuit while it is functioning and doing it's job. So you'll be sure that you have adequate continuity. Also I do agree that in most cases a continuity or OHMS check will suffice. I'm giving anyone who wants another simple MENTAL tool in their tool box a test with results that are 100% dependable.
[image: View Post]Lifttruck, on Oct 26 2008, 08:11 AM, said:
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 26 2008, 10:52 AM, said:
When it comes to mc charge wiring , just doing like I mentioned can keep you out of alot of trouble
I dont discount the complexitys like you mention, but its so easy to do the simple stuff, which most dont do till they have issue, and alot of times the issue has progressed to far to be reliable.
AAAHHHH! Here in lies the problem. You refer to voltage drop testing as complex when in reality it is just as easy as continuity testing. The only differing dynamic is you are now checking for continuity with voltage and some level of current present. Or in layman's terms you will be checking the circuit while it is functioning and doing it's job. So you'll be sure that you have adequate continuity. Also I do agree that in most cases a continuity or OHMS check will suffice. I'm giving anyone who wants another simple MENTAL tool in their tool box a test with results that are 100% dependable.
Nothing anal about voltage drop testing. It is just as simple and much more reliable.
I tested mine that way. Meter set on DC Volts connect to red R/R wire and to battery w/ bike running. I had 1.2 V loss. I replace main fuse holder and I have .5 loss. Simple and reliable.
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 26 2008, 04:17 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Lifttruck, on Oct 26 2008, 11:56 AM, said:
[image: View Post]RRW, on Oct 26 2008, 11:30 AM, said:
Can't you just mix some 6 volt electrolyte with some 12 volt ? :biggrin:
Of course but the quantum physics involved in the ratio calculations makes it too time consuming. LOL
IMO 9volts would be the outcome, unless this is like resistors in parallel in which case the answer is 4Volts.
no thanks, I prefer to simply use Valvoline electrolyte to fix it.
Hey Mr. Tightwad or how about just Tight for short. How can I get a hold of one of your repair harnesses for my '04? The local stealership has my replacement harness in stock but I want to add a little security to their butchery a... a... I mean handy repair skills.
[image: View Post]Lifttruck, on Oct 26 2008, 03:35 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 26 2008, 04:17 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Lifttruck, on Oct 26 2008, 11:56 AM, said:
[image: View Post]RRW, on Oct 26 2008, 11:30 AM, said:
Can't you just mix some 6 volt electrolyte with some 12 volt ? :biggrin:
Of course but the quantum physics involved in the ratio calculations makes it too time consuming. LOL
IMO 9volts would be the outcome, unless this is like resistors in parallel in which case the answer is 4Volts.
no thanks, I prefer to simply use Valvoline electrolyte to fix it.
Hey Mr. Tightwad or how about just Tight for short. How can I get a hold of one of your repair harnesses for my '04? The local stealership has my replacement harness in stock but I want to add a little security to their butchery a... a... I mean handy repair skills.
the VFRness is available through my Website, unless you need something specific done with it (like converting it to use a 6th gen R/R on a 5th gen, or visa-versa). I use the website for ordering ease and to keep track so I don't have to rely on my memory.
Hey Mr. Tightwad or how about just Tight for short. How can I get a hold of one of your repair harnesses for my '04? The local stealership has my replacement harness in stock but I want to add a little security to their butchery a... a... I mean handy repair skills.
[/quote]
the VFRness is available through my Website, unless you need something specific done with it (like converting it to use a 6th gen R/R on a 5th gen, or visa-versa). I use the website for ordering ease and to keep track so I don't have to rely on my memory.
www.wiremybike.com
[/quote]
One for each Gen. 5th and 6th would be what I need. I'm one of those guys that likes dating sisters.
Hey Mr. Tightwad or how about just Tight for short. How can I get a hold of one of your repair harnesses for my '04? The local stealership has my replacement harness in stock but I want to add a little security to their butchery a... a... I mean handy repair skills.
the VFRness is available through my Website, unless you need something specific done with it (like converting it to use a 6th gen R/R on a 5th gen, or visa-versa). I use the website for ordering ease and to keep track so I don't have to rely on my memory.
www.wiremybike.com
One for each Gen. 5th and 6th would be what I need. I'm one of those guys that likes dating sisters.
just be sure to pick the right 5th gen one...98-99 is much different from 2000-2001
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Oct 26 2008, 07:32 PM, said:
Quote
Quote
[image: View Post]From Oct 26 2008, 06:17 PM:
Hey Mr. Tightwad or how about just Tight for short. How can I get a hold of one of your repair harnesses for my '04? The local stealership has my replacement harness in stock but I want to add a little security to their butchery a... a... I mean handy repair skills.
the VFRness is available through my Website, unless you need something specific done with it (like converting it to use a 6th gen R/R on a 5th gen, or visa-versa). I use the website for ordering ease and to keep track so I don't have to rely on my memory.
www.wiremybike.com
One for each Gen. 5th and 6th would be what I need. I'm one of those guys that likes dating sisters.
just be sure to pick the right 5th gen one...98-99 is much different from 2000-2001
that wire thickness seems adequate, you just have to fiqure out why its melting, Mine still looks brand new, just over 50,000 mile
looks like significant corrision on that right side connector , assuming all your connecttion had perfect continuity, I'd probably start sniffin towrds the rectifier .
Have you done a voltage check across the battery while running?
[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 28 2008, 08:28 PM, said:
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 28 2008, 07:37 PM, said:
I think I'll get the VFRNESS when I can spare a few bucks.
Here are a couple pictures. The small wire is the wire that came on the bike originally. It has 10k miles on it.
The bigger wire is the new and unimproved recall fix. Honda did use a bigger gauge wire but the result is the same.
that wire thickness seems adequate, you just have to fiqure out why its melting, Mine still looks brand new, just over 50,000 mile
looks like significant corrision on that right side connector , assuming all your connecttion had perfect continuity, I'd probably start sniffin towrds the rectifier .
Have you done a voltage check across the battery while running?
I agree...the problem is just showing on that wire, but is most likely an upstream problem, could be as simple as the VFRness to fix, or might need a new R/R. I would talk to the dealer so they can begin understanding their new harness may not be the cure they think it is. Not that I mind making VFRnesses, I just feel bad for those who haven't a clue there is an alternative
Agree with spud. Lots of heat there, most likely from the connectors due to the Amp load they carry continuously. The thin wire was a problem too, but clearly not the only one.
spud, either you're running without lights, or that "prep" procedure of yours works very well. What exactly is that?
[image: View Post]pserve, on Oct 28 2008, 10:54 PM, said:
Agree with spud. Lots of heat there, most likely from the connectors due to the Amp load they carry continuously. The thin wire was a problem too, but clearly not the only one.
spud, either you're running without lights, or that "prep" procedure of yours works very well. What exactly is that?
I do run lights?
I just check to ensure the continuity check is pure through the connector, and improve the contact if it isnt.
Wd40 works great as a preventaive corrosion inhibitor, and doesnt effect continuity as some of the electrical silicon greases do for such purposes.
pretty simple stuff really>G<
I've never had a bike yet that I havent had to do this with, they will all build corrosion in the connectors left unchecked, My intent is to prep before that begins.
[image: View Post]pserve, on Oct 28 2008, 10:54 PM, said:
Agree with spud. Lots of heat there, most likely from the connectors due to the Amp load they carry continuously. The thin wire was a problem too, but clearly not the only one.
spud, either you're running without lights, or that "prep" procedure of yours works very well. What exactly is that?
Oddley enough, the problem is generally when you DON'T use the power generated, and the R/R has to try and bleed it off to ground.
Corrosion? There is absolutly no corrosion on any connector or terminal. You may be seeing a diffirent color but that is where it has been hot. 3 out of 3 honda techs in my shop agree there is no corrosion what so ever. I wish it was that simple.
I took all the plastic's off before the dealer did the recall. The first thing I did when I got home was take every connector off and added dielectric grease. I used honda dielectric grease too.
The real kicker is that I have a volt meter installed on the bike and havent seen anything other than normal charging voltage.
My battery is the original that came in the bike. I bought it new in 4/06, it sat in a crate for 2 years. The battery is still strong but it makes me wonder if something could be going on with it.
I am going to let the service manager and technician at the dealer see it. I just want them to make a record of it and see that there may still be problems.
I have kept a watch on the problem areas and everything has been fine. I just did a bunch of cosmetic work to the bike. Everything was fine and then 500 miles later it is burnt up.
I'm glad you've documented everything with the dealer. The next step though, IMHO, is to beef up your wires, whether or not the dealer gives you the "okay".
for any one thinking about it, and just to give him a plug,
TIGHTWAD makes one heck of a product. it looks quite professional and even though i was getting the warranty work done, i bought the harness with the power relay block so that i could easily provide fused power to various devices (think volt meter, radar dector, etc) in a plug and play format.
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 29 2008, 08:17 AM, said:
My battery is the original that came in the bike. I bought it new in 4/06, it sat in a crate for 2 years. The battery is still strong but it makes me wonder if something could be going on with it.
Could a weak battery that is drawing too much current to recharge heat up the 30 amp fuse wire?
Last January the mechanic told me my battery failed their test machine but I kept using it because the bike started with no sign of weakness. I have had 3 stator failures with that 1-2 year old Yuasa battery. 6 months after I replaced that battery my new recall 30 amp fuse wire began discoloring from heat. I do not know what to think.
[image: View Post]Bad Boy, on Oct 29 2008, 08:33 PM, said:
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Oct 29 2008, 08:17 AM, said:
My battery is the original that came in the bike. I bought it new in 4/06, it sat in a crate for 2 years. The battery is still strong but it makes me wonder if something could be going on with it.
Could a weak battery that is drawing too much current to recharge heat up the 30 amp fuse wire?
Last January the mechanic told me my battery failed their test machine but I kept using it because the bike started with no sign of weakness. I have had 3 stator failures with that 1-2 year old Yuasa battery. 6 months after I replaced that battery my new recall 30 amp fuse wire began discoloring from heat. I do not know what to think.
I replaced my 06 battery at 40,000 mile cause it started getting weak, I know it was taking on alot of charge. If I left my light on for 3 minutes with bike turned off, the batter could no longer turn the motor over. I charge it enough to get it to turn over, so I know it was taking full charge, but wires still mint. so the system wring can take a full charge IMO , if everything is right.
Something just isnt right and other than that latest wire size, cause I'd have the issue to, especially having alot more miles on the bike.
I think shotgun a battery and rr in there IMO, if it were mine and beef they destroyed wiring, little choice now
Yeah, maybe your battery's shorting out when it gets hot... friend of mine in the cCanary Islands had that happen to him recently... that would put your stator and thus R/R on overtime... if I'm not mistaken... I still can't get over the fact that people are still having issues after the fix...
I took it to the dealer thursday. I have ridden it several times and still the voltage is correct and the wire isnt any worse.
The dealer is very helpful. They took pictures and are sending them to honda. There is no telling if they will do anything. I just wanted everything documented. Even if they put on a new harness it will happen again. I guess I need to beef up some wires after I see what thinks about it.
The service manager told the tech to get on it and order what ever is needed, ok'ed.
My harness recall was performed twice, the first time in May with a non ABS version. So summer with no ABS wasn't that bad but not happy. Finally got the right one last month, but they put some of the plastics back on wrong and forgot 3 push clips.
Went for a ride Wednesday, left the bike running while I went to hit the garage door opener, the phone rang - I picked up. As I'm talking the lady from across the street is running across my lawn yelling "YOUR BIKE IS ON FIRE"
Sure enough it was on fire, luckily I had my aerosol fire extinguisher fairly close by.
Now honda wants pictures of the whole bike. I will let them take some pictures. I just want everything documented so if anything should happen and to let them know there mat still be a problem. The could give me another harness but it seems the same thing will happen again.
I ordered a VFRness and will just install that. :cool:
[image: View Post]soichiro, on Nov 24 2008, 04:11 PM, said:
I ordered a VFRness and will just install that. :cool:
Listen to the man, people. If you aren't inclined to beef up your harness yourself, get a VFRness!!
Otherwise, the odds of your bike leaving you stranded (or starting on fire!) are stacked against you.
I've been wanting to do some tests on mine to find out exactly how much current is flowing in the system and I finally got to it today. Basically, I connected a high current ammeter in place of the 30A fuse harness and let her rip. Here's what I found:
The load after it's been idling for a few minutes was about 13 Amps continuous. It's higher immediately after startup, around 20 Amps peak, and then gradually comes down. I'm sure that's due to the recharging of the battery.
Flipping on the high beams sends it from 13 to just over 20 continuous. I let it run until the fan came on at 220 and that also sent it up to about 20 from 13. Adding the high beams back in at that point showed over 26 Amps. In another test, I found that just the brake would add another 3-4 Amps. I did not try all of them together since that might have exceeded the fuse rating.
So, it seems that the load will be between 13 and 20 under most conditions. Considering that even my updated fuse starts to get pretty warm at 20A, I guess I"m not surprised that stuff burns up from time to time. For those who have also added accessories after the fuse, I'd say you're on you own.
[image: View Post]pserve, on Dec 2 2008, 02:33 AM, said:
I've been wanting to do some tests on mine to find out exactly how much current is flowing in the system and I finally got to it today. Basically, I connected a high current ammeter in place of the 30A fuse harness and let her rip. Here's what I found:
The load after it's been idling for a few minutes was about 13 Amps continuous. It's higher immediately after startup, around 20 Amps peak, and then gradually comes down. I'm sure that's due to the recharging of the battery.
Flipping on the high beams sends it from 13 to just over 20 continuous. I let it run until the fan came on at 220 and that also sent it up to about 20 from 13. Adding the high beams back in at that point showed over 26 Amps. In another test, I found that just the brake would add another 3-4 Amps. I did not try all of them together since that might have exceeded the fuse rating.
So, it seems that the load will be between 13 and 20 under most conditions. Considering that even my updated fuse starts to get pretty warm at 20A, I guess I"m not surprised that stuff burns up from time to time. For those who have also added accessories after the fuse, I'd say you're on you own.
nice test. but according to what you wrote, 20 amps with fan, 26 with beams, 3-4 with brakes=29....yeah, one amp more and you would be popping your fuse...that doesnt seem right as plenty of folks here have added heated grips and other farkles....
have you had the recall work completed? do you have the vfrness from tightwad? i ask only as a point of reference because it would be neat to see the numbers with each change (especially the vfrness)
No recall for me. I don't need a shop to provide me with any more issues than are already there. When the fuse harness toasted itself, I put in a new one. Once I found out the battery was routinely getting charged at over 15 volts, I did the monitor wire fix to take care of it. So far, so good, although I am a bit concerned about the stator<->R/R connector and wires now. They seem to get quite warm in operation, and I don't like it. Everything else seems to be OK.
I totally agree that things don't look right, and that's what bothers me. Perhaps my meter is off, or there's something wrong with my machine, but I don't think so. Maybe fuses aren't blowing left and right because the worst case scenario (everything on at once) doesn't happen in practice. In any case, the point of the exercise was to find out what kind of load there is, and see if that could shed any light. With that in mind, I now know that the load can really get up there at times. If the wiring and connectors aren't up to that task, they will eventually break down. So, it could be as simple as beefing them up.
One more thing... I did the tests while holding around 4K RPM so the voltage would be stable at 14.6. When idling, the alternator just can't make enough Amps to keep up and I wouldn't get a good reading. For instance, when I tried it, that 26 was cut down to 21-22 as the voltage fell. I didn't catch what it got down to, but I know the fan got slower and the lights dimmed. If the regulator were adjustable, I'd consider reducing it a bit just to curb the Amp draw the same way.
Something is fishy with those AMP readings...........I have an 04 that I run heated grips, Gerbings jacket, high beams, brakelight and fan on when stopped in traffic and I've never popped a fuse.
I agree, nice test. Remember that you were running pretty much every item you could, so 29 amps is the right max. Teh numbers look correct, 2.1 amps per brake light bulb (and tail-light), 3.7 amps per headlight beam(ish).
I run 20 amps per line, with 2 fuse holders, with no problem.
Did another test today. Not on the bike, but one of the fuses. I used some of the motors and batteries I have my for hobby to rig up something that would pull over 30A and find out when it would blow. I only got to just over 34A for a few seconds, and 32-33 for a couple minutes. That was the limit of my equipment. Anyway, the 30A fuse did not open.
The conclusion could be that the meter is reading high, but I also found some info about fuses on the web. Basically, it says that a fuse won't open exactly at it's rated current, and instead will take some time to do so depending on how far over you are. Here's the URL: http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
The facts are that I don't know how close the meter is, or if my bike is even working "right", and I have no way to verify either. It's too bad I can't have a look at vfr_steve's bike, since he's been blowing fuses lately.
[image: View Post]pserve, on Dec 4 2008, 01:05 AM, said:
Did another test today. Not on the bike, but one of the fuses. I used some of the motors and batteries I have my for hobby to rig up something that would pull over 30A and find out when it would blow. I only got to just over 34A for a few seconds, and 32-33 for a couple minutes. That was the limit of my equipment. Anyway, the 30A fuse did not open.
The conclusion could be that the meter is reading high, but I also found some info about fuses on the web. Basically, it says that a fuse won't open exactly at it's rated current, and instead will take some time to do so depending on how far over you are. Here's the URL: http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
The facts are that I don't know how close the meter is, or if my bike is even working "right", and I have no way to verify either. It's too bad I can't have a look at vfr_steve's bike, since he's been blowing fuses lately.
So is there a correct answer to what fuses I should run in my 30A connector and my new double red from R/R? I ran the 2 red 12g back to a single 10g fuse holder at the battery (I had one in my car audio parts box). I also common'd the 2 green wires and chassis grounded and ran an extra 8g from ground terminal on the battery to the same chassis spot. I also ran the monitor wire to the battery and fused (what fuse here too?)
I have read 2x 20A and I have also read a 20A in the 30A holder and a 15A in the beefed up wires.
[image: View Post]pserve, on Dec 3 2008, 11:05 PM, said:
Did another test today. Not on the bike, but one of the fuses. I used some of the motors and batteries I have my for hobby to rig up something that would pull over 30A and find out when it would blow. I only got to just over 34A for a few seconds, and 32-33 for a couple minutes. That was the limit of my equipment. Anyway, the 30A fuse did not open.
The conclusion could be that the meter is reading high, but I also found some info about fuses on the web. Basically, it says that a fuse won't open exactly at it's rated current, and instead will take some time to do so depending on how far over you are. Here's the URL: http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm
The facts are that I don't know how close the meter is, or if my bike is even working "right", and I have no way to verify either. It's too bad I can't have a look at vfr_steve's bike, since he's been blowing fuses lately.
are you having issue? if you see 14 volt just above idle across , your great
My 06 abs at 54,000 mile , electrics have stayed very clean and completely unmmoded, I started running an electric vest and rddetector, I need to pull my seat and check that charge wire, to see if its condition is still excellent.
But the My RD shows voltage, and it varies between the high 13's and 15volts , seems to be good.
Only thing I've done is just ensure low resistance through contact points , ever bike I've ever had needs to have that checked occasionally.
After reading all of this it makes me realize that my habit of avoiding my High beams is still a good one. :rolleyes:
Hey Tightwad, I still have your "original" VFRness. The dealership was so kind as to remove it during the recall work and return it to me. It's going back in this weekend while I am installing a fuse block, brake pedal, fuel filter, blah blah blah. I need to PM you about the relay kit I got with it. I wanted to say that I had no issues with voltage fluctuations with this installed and I will feel infinitely better once I get it back in. Good job my man. Way to help out your fellow riders. :fing02:
After reading through this thread, and knowing that my '04 had the recall work done, and my bike has exhibited no symptoms (yet), I am tempted to get the VFRness. $80 to prevent my bike from dying is cheap insurance!
Besides the VFRness 'bundle', is there anything else I'll need?
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 6 2009, 02:57 PM, said:
After reading through this thread, and knowing that my '04 had the recall work done, and my bike has exhibited no symptoms (yet), I am tempted to get the VFRness. $80 to prevent my bike from dying is cheap insurance!
Besides the VFRness 'bundle', is there anything else I'll need?
How hard is it to install this thing?
The "Bundle" contains a fuse panel that you may or may not need....it is only for accessories. Installation is easy, detailed instructions are included, all of 2 pages in a 12-14 font with step by step. There really shouldn't be anything else you need unless you want to add a Powerlet Steering stem or SpeedBleeder product.
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 6 2009, 02:39 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 6 2009, 02:57 PM, said:
After reading through this thread, and knowing that my '04 had the recall work done, and my bike has exhibited no symptoms (yet), I am tempted to get the VFRness. $80 to prevent my bike from dying is cheap insurance!
Besides the VFRness 'bundle', is there anything else I'll need?
How hard is it to install this thing?
The "Bundle" contains a fuse panel that you may or may not need....it is only for accessories. Installation is easy, detailed instructions are included, all of 2 pages in a 12-14 font with step by step. There really shouldn't be anything else you need unless you want to add a Powerlet Steering stem or SpeedBleeder product.
I like the sound of the bundle....while I did install a Powerlet socket in the left fairing, there's a good chance I'll be adding heated grips, GPS, radar detector, etc. sometime.
Does the fused panel tuck in somewhere that is easy to access?
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 6 2009, 03:44 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 6 2009, 02:39 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 6 2009, 02:57 PM, said:
After reading through this thread, and knowing that my '04 had the recall work done, and my bike has exhibited no symptoms (yet), I am tempted to get the VFRness. $80 to prevent my bike from dying is cheap insurance!
Besides the VFRness 'bundle', is there anything else I'll need?
How hard is it to install this thing?
The "Bundle" contains a fuse panel that you may or may not need....it is only for accessories. Installation is easy, detailed instructions are included, all of 2 pages in a 12-14 font with step by step. There really shouldn't be anything else you need unless you want to add a Powerlet Steering stem or SpeedBleeder product.
I like the sound of the bundle....while I did install a Powerlet socket in the left fairing, there's a good chance I'll be adding heated grips, GPS, radar detector, etc. sometime.
Does the fused panel tuck in somewhere that is easy to access?
Fuse Panel locates under the seat near the Rear master cylinder. I use mine for my Powerlet, heated Grips, GSXR Lighted Mirrors, and External Battery Charger port (Powerlet socket non-relayed). The last one required some "custom" work as I used the fuse panel but didn't used the switched portion.
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 08:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
The Blue Connector fix is actually what the recall is aimed at. None of the rest is a "real" problem, since so few (all of us mostly) have had any other electrical issues.
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 9 2009, 09:14 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 08:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
The Blue Connector fix is actually what the recall is aimed at. None of the rest is a "real" problem, since so few (all of us mostly) have had any other electrical issues.
Thanks...I took a look at my wiring last night and can't see any of the discoloring or issues associated with hot wires.
I may just go for the $5 blue connector fix for now, and keep an eye on things...
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 9 2009, 11:14 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 08:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
The Blue Connector fix is actually what the recall is aimed at. None of the rest is a "real" problem, since so few (all of us mostly) have had any other electrical issues.
I recieved my VFRness with installation instructions and the' Blue Connector fix ' without installation instructions.Could you please advise me on installing the 'Blue Fix'? Thank you...take care all...
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 9 2009, 11:14 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 08:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
The Blue Connector fix is actually what the recall is aimed at. None of the rest is a "real" problem, since so few (all of us mostly) have had any other electrical issues.
Somewhere (way back in my memory bank) it seems to me there is some kind of electric gel,or some such stuff that helps with making better connections. Do you know of such a thing? (I do use electric cleaning spray).....Monk
[image: View Post]Monk, on Mar 12 2009, 09:54 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 9 2009, 11:14 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 08:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
The Blue Connector fix is actually what the recall is aimed at. None of the rest is a "real" problem, since so few (all of us mostly) have had any other electrical issues.
Somewhere (way back in my memory bank) it seems to me there is some kind of electric gel,or some such stuff that helps with making better connections. Do you know of such a thing? (I do use electric cleaning spray).....Monk
I think it's called 'dialectic grease' ... Google it and you can probably find some more info
[image: View Post]drag08, on Mar 11 2009, 06:34 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Mar 9 2009, 11:14 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 08:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
The Blue Connector fix is actually what the recall is aimed at. None of the rest is a "real" problem, since so few (all of us mostly) have had any other electrical issues.
I recieved my VFRness with installation instructions and the' Blue Connector fix ' without installation instructions.Could you please advise me on installing the 'Blue Fix'? Thank you...take care all...
I really need to write down how to install that part...documented many times, but not with the part.....my fault.
Remove the left panel from the bike
Locate the Blue connector with lots of wires
find the green in/out wire on the corner
using the blue T-Taps, wrap them around each wire fairly close to the connector, and crimp them closed with pliars
Connect the quick connects on one end of the green wire (the end with 2 connections) one to each T-Tap (they plug right in)
Connect the 6mm loop connector to a nearby bolt, making it a chassis ground.
Replace all items removed
Ride safely
[image: View Post]Shuffler, on Mar 7 2009, 06:08 AM, said:
What about the 'Blue Connector' fix....what problem(s) does that address?
I haven't personally had any issues related to the blue connector ground issue, but I added the jumper fix shortly after purchasing my '07.
You could have problems with any of the devices pictured in the diagram that ground through the blue connector. From what I gather from posts here the typical symptoms are clicking relays (headlights) or poor running issues regarding a poor ground to the bank angle sensor and the power interruptions to the fuel pump, coils etc.
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1236857754/gallery_9762_4443_20567.jpg Blue Connector fix
I am having issues with my high beams not turning on when I hit the switch, or a delay in the bulbs coming on. I have to toggle the switch every now and then when they don't turn on.
Also, the bike bogged out a little yesterday(didn't want to take any throttle increase), BUT - I am still running gas from last season, will fill up today with fresh premium, hopefully that doesn't come back.
Need to get that high beam thing sorted before TMAC though!!!
Thanks to all who've weighed in here. Have '04-ABS that had Same headlight issues. Haven't been well enough to put too many miles on it since Mother Honda did her work last fall (local dealer was Quite helpful after 2 mos wait for their harness, though), less than 1000 total miles. Most local, although a couple around 200mi or so. Have had no recurrence of Headlight probs or any others after having BIG Issue literally Just before "recall" was done - numerous stall-coast-restart-repeat cycles & 2 hrs to go ~40miles, directly to dealers garage ;)
Appreciate Tighwad's work, VFOr's Schematic, and others' diligence with all of this. Just got bike "on road" for season - ran fine after 5 month lay-off. Spent All night reviewing this and related post - your input apppreciated on this. Am still concerned based on others experience - would you advise, even with "recall" harness installed, Tightwad's Blue Connector fix and even VFRness? I haven't realized until now need to check Voltage levels & will do so soon, if not over weekend. Will obviously pull fairings off and get into re-making many connections as possible.
Would like to finally be able to use my '04 as was originally intended, for more Touring oriented long tavelling, without specter of impending Doom. As such, am also interested in certain acc's and aux input(s) for more full outfitting, esp'ly possible Powerlet Prod's, which I just "found" over last week.
Please advise as possible, even possible adjacent threads, and thank you all again. You're an incredible resource and much appreciated.
End of thread · 94 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010