I recently installed a new chain and I am having a hard time getting a proper and consistent tension.
I do as the manual says and allow slightly over 1" of travel while on the centerstand. When I have my buddy of similar weight sit on my bike (off the center stand), the chain seems to be too tight.
Regardless of how I set it, I end up w/ it being too loose after a few miles. What's the proper torque value for the pinch bolt? Maybe I'm not torquing that down tight enough.
The chain will be loose at either end of the swingarm's travel (fully compressed rear shock, or fully extended swingarm when the bike's on the centrestand).
When the swingarm is perfectly lined up so the swingarm, centres of the rear sprocket and countershaft sprocket are in a straight line, the chain has at its tightest. There should be very minimal slack at this point.
Because this is hard to measure, the normal method is to measure it at fully extended position - with the bike on the centrestand, and about 30mm (an inch and a bit) of travel, measured from when you pull the chain down, to when you push it up towards the swingarm and the TOP length of chain (above the swingarm) starts to move.
If however, your chain is worn unevenly (with tight links and loose ones), you must measure the freeplay at the point of chain rotation where there's the LEAST amount of freeplay.
[image: View Post]DeadSprint, on Apr 29 2009, 10:08 AM, said:
Adjust the chain while your buddy of similar weight sits on the bike. Isn't that where it's going to be for the most part while you are riding it.
Only on a flat, smooth road, with no bumps, and VERY smooth throttle input and braking.
[image: View Post]enzed_viffer, on Apr 28 2009, 05:12 PM, said:
[image: View Post]DeadSprint, on Apr 29 2009, 10:08 AM, said:
Adjust the chain while your buddy of similar weight sits on the bike. Isn't that where it's going to be for the most part while you are riding it.
Only on a flat, smooth road, with no bumps, and VERY smooth throttle input and braking.
I agree with that but wouldn't it still be the center point to work from? It just seems to make sense which therefore probably means it is incorrect but it does sound good.
I'm not trying to disseminate erroneous information so I don't mind the correction. :biggrin:
[image: View Post]DeadSprint, on Apr 29 2009, 10:22 AM, said:
I agree with that but wouldn't it still be the center point to work from? It just seems to make sense which therefore probably means it is incorrect but it does sound good.
In theory at least, setting the chain tension in the centre point (with the sprockets and swingarm in line) would be ideal, As I said, this is the tightest point (the point at which there's least slack). So if you set it there, you could set it to have virtually no freeplay, as it's never going to get tighter.
However (but!), in practice, it's not easy to put all your ducks in a line, the swingarm/sprockets in planetary alignment, so that's why it's specified at full extension, because that's easy to achieve and replicate. But.... (however!) there is a not-so-small ointment in one's flies: if you have shimmed your rear shock, or have an aftermarket shock that peculiarly is longer'n the OEM Showa one (despite being made to specifications), your swingarm is 'hyperextended' and you can never be sure you've got the tension right. :huh: So you're continually fretting about it, readjusting it every week or so, and wondering if the botched gearchanges are the result of the chain being too loose or too tight, or something more sinister....
Time to devise me another 'doofer', methinks. Something that aids me in achieving perfect chain tension. Hmmmm........................
[image: View Post]da9b20, on Jun 25 2009, 12:45 PM, said:
Ive been searching and but dont see the anwser to my question. Im going to just ask it here.
I have 10K on my Rk chain and it now seems to be streched out beyond adjustment. Can I just take out a link?
Ask youself this.......... Why is everyone changing their chains when there's no longer enough adjustment left in the old chain........ It would be ok in an emergency........ But when a chain has stretched that far there are more factors than length to be considered........ all the parts that a chain is made of are also going bad........ you run the risk of the chain breaking while riding..... which can cause you and/or the bike harm............. You didn't say, but I'd say with only 10k on it, it's probably two things that need more attention......... lube regularly, don't adjust to tightly.......... Monk
At about 10k the factory grease that keeps your O-rings lubricated has about vanished. You are experiencing metal on metal for the links at this point and this is causing the chain to expand as the metal wears. By removing a link you are adding more tension to the chain and thus increasing the wear and tear. Like Monk said you are increasing the chances of chain failure. At best you will suddenly lose the chain and no big deal. At worst it will break and whip around doing some damage to the VFR and/or you.
Also as Monk said when adjusting the chain slightly looser is better as too tight increases wear and tear. Those O-rings will only hold up to so much. And chain lubing should be done around every 500 miles ideally. I target for 350 or every 2nd gas up. Which ever comes first. Once I get some time set aside I will enjoy the Pro-oiler I bought and then I only need to worry about making sure the reservoir is filled up regularly.
Of course opinions on when and how to lube vary as much as what oil/tire/exhaust to get. ;)
I recently installed a new chain and I am having a hard time getting a proper and consistent tension.
I do as the manual says and allow slightly over 1" of travel while on the centerstand. When I have my buddy of similar weight sit on my bike (off the center stand), the chain seems to be too tight.
Regardless of how I set it, I end up w/ it being too loose after a few miles. What's the proper torque value for the pinch bolt? Maybe I'm not torquing that down tight enough.
How do you guys end up w/ proper tension?
By the time your chain needs to be replaced, it is time to replace the sprockets as well, other wise the old sprckets will eat out your new chain very fast! When you replace both, you will not have a tight spots and you will feel a big difference. You would not believe how much power you loose with a bad chain and sprockets, not to mention the danger of a chain letting go. Good luck.
[image: View Post]bipedal, on Jun 26 2009, 11:02 AM, said:
By the time your chain needs to be replaced, it is time to replace the sprockets as well, other wise the old sprckets will eat out your new chain very fast! When you replace both, you will not have a tight spots and you will feel a big difference. You would not believe how much power you loose with a bad chain and sprockets, not to mention the danger of a chain letting go. Good luck.
Actually the new sprockets do no effect whether or not there are tight spots in your chain. The manufacturing process of the chain does. I recently installed a new DID chain and it still had tight spots. You just do your tensioning of the chain where it is tightest and you are good to go. But you are 100% correct on replacing the chain and the sprockets at the same time. :fing02:
[image: View Post]vanion2, on Jun 26 2009, 10:08 AM, said:
[image: View Post]bipedal, on Jun 26 2009, 11:02 AM, said:
By the time your chain needs to be replaced, it is time to replace the sprockets as well, other wise the old sprckets will eat out your new chain very fast! When you replace both, you will not have a tight spots and you will feel a big difference. You would not believe how much power you loose with a bad chain and sprockets, not to mention the danger of a chain letting go. Good luck.
Actually the new sprockets do no effect whether or not there are tight spots in your chain. The manufacturing process of the chain does. I recently installed a new DID chain and it still had tight spots. You just do your tensioning of the chain where it is tightest and you are good to go. But you are 100% correct on replacing the chain and the sprockets at the same time. :fing02:
If the parts are of good quality you should never have a tight spot on the chain, never, unless your have a bigger problem and your rear wheel or your counter shaft are are out of concentricity (bent or damaged, bad bearings, etc) Top of the line components do not have machining flaws, and if they do, the manufacturer will make good on it, I will make sure. They cost good money, but they are worth it.
I recently installed a new chain and I am having a hard time getting a proper and consistent tension.
How many links of chain did you install??? because if you have either too many links or not enough the
cassette will be clocked in the wrong position that may promote creep during shock loads... you want
the prescribe number of links called for in the shop manual so the axle is clocked near the 6 'O' Clock
position... if I recall right the correct number is 108 links...
Cassette clocked in the wrong position because the axle rest in the 5 O' clock position and the shock
loads during normal riding causes the cassette to creep...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1227850665/gallery_3131_51_46456.jpg
Cassette clocked in the right position because the axle rest in the 6 O'Clock position and the shock
loads of normal riding can not cause the cassette to creep... not to mention you get the most out of
your ride height adjustment...
I think you are over thinking it; it is just chain adjustment, very basic.
Just follow the manual and adjust it at the tightest spot and set it on the loose side of the recommendation. Do this with the bike on the center stand and your chain will be fine as long as you do have a chain with the proper number of links and you torque to the proper specs.
End of thread · 15 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 10 Apr 2010