Neutral Switch

I am pretty sure I already know the answer to this, but, can the neutral switch be changed without draining the oil (and not making a mess)?

I'd also be interested in knowing about this, but mine is a 5th gen. Seems that if you do it during an oil change it would not present a problem.

I'm thinking about removing it and cutting/splicing wiring to new one so as to avoid getting to the connector, which I believe is hidden under the air cleaner/throttle bodies.

Mine (neutral switch) seems to fail when bike gets hot, otherwise works fine.

[image: View Post]maddog, on Aug 18 2009, 01:33 PM, said:

I'm thinking about removing it and cutting/splicing wiring to new one so as to avoid getting to the connector, which I believe is hidden under the air cleaner/throttle bodies.
Not sure what you mean here? The neutral switch is on the transmission, and the wire to it can be pulled off. It looks like the wire is part of the switch, but it is just a friction fit.

[image: View Post]maddog, on Aug 18 2009, 01:33 PM, said:

Mine (neutral switch) seems to fail when bike gets hot, otherwise works fine.
That's what mine does. I wasn't sure if it was the switch or wiring, but I connected a multimeter to it and confirmed it is the switch.

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Aug 18 2009, 11:44 AM, said:

[image: View Post]maddog, on Aug 18 2009, 01:33 PM, said:

I'm thinking about removing it and cutting/splicing wiring to new one so as to avoid getting to the connector, which I believe is hidden under the air cleaner/throttle bodies.
Not sure what you mean here? The neutral switch is on the transmission, and the wire to it can be pulled off. It looks like the wire is part of the switch, but it is just a friction fit.

[image: View Post]maddog, on Aug 18 2009, 01:33 PM, said:

Mine (neutral switch) seems to fail when bike gets hot, otherwise works fine.
That's what mine does. I wasn't sure if it was the switch or wiring, but I connected a multimeter to it and confirmed it is the switch.

Not sure we've got the same switch, as mine's a 5th gen ('00).

I didn't know the wire could be disconnected from the switch. Wasn't sure, so didn't pull on it very hard. I'll check with the local shop to see if switch comes with wiring or not.

I would think they would be the same on both engines. Here is what the new one looks like
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/Jeremy556/misc/neutral_switch1.jpghttp://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/Jeremy556/misc/neutral_switch2.jpg
On the end opposite the threads, there is a wire with a single conductor, with a natural colored plastic connector. It just pulls off. The switch is supposed to have continuity to ground when in neutral, but once my oil temp gets pretty high, it will lose continuity (Neutral light flashes on the dash, and eventually stops working).

Thanks for the pic. Hopefully I have the same switch.

Part number?

What did yours cost?

35600-KE8-003
$13.98 from local dealer

Thank you.

jeremy,

Did you also get the crush washer which goes with the new switch?

Do you know the torque for the switch installation?

I ordered the switch today and also picked up the new crush washer , which, surprisingly, they had in stock (must also fit something else). I also had to order brake pads, which you'd think a Honda shop would carry.

The switch fit about 55 different machines, according to the parts mgr. I spoke with. He also said they'd never had to replace one, on any bike. Never had ordered one, and he's been there a bunch of years.

[image: View Post]maddog, on Aug 20 2009, 08:24 PM, said:

jeremy,

Did you also get the crush washer which goes with the new switch?

Do you know the torque for the switch installation?

I ordered the switch today and also picked up the new crush washer , which, surprisingly, they had in stock (must also fit something else). I also had to order brake pads, which you'd think a Honda shop would carry.

The switch fit about 55 different machines, according to the parts mgr. I spoke with. He also said they'd never had to replace one, on any bike. Never had ordered one, and he's been there a bunch of years.
Not sure on the torque, I seem to remember the only information in the service manual about the neutral switch was testing continuity, and it didn't mention torque, crush washers, or anything else. Let me know if you find out.

Didn't get the washer, didn't realize there was one (should have known). I will hopefully be able to reuse the one that is there, or find one local.

You and I are the only ones I have ever even heard of failing.

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Aug 21 2009, 12:47 PM, said:

You and I are the only ones I have ever even heard of failing.
I think not.
I just had a search on the UK VFR Club Forum, using "neutral switch" as a search term, and turned up LOTS of instances of naughty switches.

Going by the size of the crush washer, which is smaller (dia.) and thinner than one for the oil drain plug, torque can't be more than maybe 10-12 ft./lb.(?), so I'll just snug it up.

I'm surprised this issue hasn't come up before, with all the high mileage VFRs here. Mine's got around 85k miles.

Pretty small hole, shouldn't loose too much oil while you swap it. Not like the water pump... Don't ask!

Actually, transmission isn't in the sump, right?

I plan to swap my switch out during my next oil change, so leakage shouldn't be an issue. Don't need any more of a mess than what I make with an oil change.

[image: View Post]KPerham, on Aug 20 2009, 09:53 PM, said:

Actually, transmission isn't in the sump, right?
Not sure, that's why I started the thread :unsure:
I plan on going to find a suitable crush washer this morning and will swap them out today and find out.

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Aug 21 2009, 08:32 AM, said:

[image: View Post]KPerham, on Aug 20 2009, 09:53 PM, said:

Actually, transmission isn't in the sump, right?
Not sure, that's why I started the thread :unsure:
I plan on going to find a suitable crush washer this morning and will swap them out today and find out.
Well, I'm thinking it's like the clutch in that if it were spinning in a pool of oil it would froth it up and cause problems...
But again, it's a pretty small hole. So just swap 'em real fast! :laugh:

[image: View Post]jeremy556, on Aug 21 2009, 08:32 AM, said:

[image: View Post]KPerham, on Aug 20 2009, 09:53 PM, said:

Actually, transmission isn't in the sump, right?
Not sure, that's why I started the thread :unsure:
I plan on going to find a suitable crush washer this morning and will swap them out today and find out.



Jeremy, I think you could switch it out with minimal oil lose if any. Have the new one ready when you pull the old one out.

A lot of switches on honda autos dont use an o-ring or a crush washer. It is more of a tapered fit like a pipe plug. Just tighten it to a reasonable level. You will feel it seat. Dont over torque it.

OK, just changed it out. Turns out it was probably the easiest, fastest, replacement part on the whole bike.

It did have a crush washer, but I reused it, as I didn't have a chance to make it out to an auto parts store today, and it was in good shape anyway.

No oil loss, not even a drip.

Of note, the new part has a longer actuator and is rounded on the end. I am not sure if this is an updated part, or if mine had sheared off. The end of the old switch is a bit roughed up, again I can't tell if this is just from normal wear, or if the end was sheared off. So far with >70,000 miles and no other transmission related issues, and still on the original clutch.
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/Jeremy556/misc/neutral_switch3.jpg

Probably just worn down. Now you know why it wouldn't work! :biggrin: