ACK ! Where did the Darth Bling Mirror post go ???

So I am close to starting work on my mirror conversion and all of a sudden the post is gone (http://www.vfrdiscus...th+bling+mirror) ???

I need the info from Veefer (I think) as my new led's and new 1175 conectors arrived and I want to start working on the wiring ... HELP ! :blink:

Would this help:

http://www.vfrdiscus...=1

NO, thanks for trying. There was a long 6 or 8 pages post that had Veefer Madness doing his 1157 conversion for the bulbs and sockets that I really need. :unsure:

Unfortunately, it looks like my thread was deleted. My guess it was because of inactivity and the fact that it was in the bargain finder thread. :unsure:

Anyway, I was lucky enough a salvage the first page of the thread from a Google cache after it was deleted. So, I'll go ahead and re-post as much of the thread as I can into this thread for future reference. Again, I don't have the whole thread anymore. Wish means Tightwads 1157 bulb conversion is gone. :(

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 01:42 AM
Edited 20 Jan 2010 - 9:48 PM

Darth Bling Mirror Mounts! :fing02:

[image: Posted Image]

Prices are as follows:
5th Gen Mounts: $50

This prices include domestic shipping within the USA.
If you wish to purchase some mounts, please email me at [image: Posted Image].

I'm sorry to say but I'm out of 6th Gen mirrors mounts. A bunch of BMW F800 guys found out that my mirror mounts worked on their bikes, so I got cleared out of them.

Please see the section below for "how-to" instructions!

Payment Instructions
To make a payment for your order, you can either send me a check or money order. I will also accept paypal payments.
For international orders, please email me and we'll get the shipping details sorted out.



Assembly Instructions!

For those of you who purchased just the mounts and already have your own Emgo/GSXR mirrors, here's are the instructions on how to assemble the mirrors.

1) You need to take your mirror out of it's package!

[image: Posted Image]


2) You need to remove the cap on the end of the mirror. Yes, this is very tricky. You can try to pry the cap up, but you'll probably end up marring the surface of the mirror stock and possibly damage the cap.

[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]

The way I would recommend to remove the cap is from the bottom. If you insert a screwdriver (or a T-handle Allen wrench or whatever) from the bottom, you can pop the cap off. Be careful though! Don't just arbitrarily slam the screwdriver into the cap to pop it off; you'll break the tab off the cap (trust me on this!). All you need to do is apply pressure to the cap. Gentle increase the amount of force until you see the cap start to come off. Now with your third hand, insert another screwdriver underneath the cap and then pry the cap off gently. You only get one cap per mirror so be careful with it!

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3) With the cap off, pull the wires back through the hole.

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4) The quickest and probably easiest way to take the existing mount off the mirror is to use a drill. I believe I was using a 25/64" bit, but you could probably use a 3/8".

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As you can see, as the drill bit goes further down it pops the tabs out.
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Be careful, when that last tab goes, the mount kind of explodes! Don't be surprised if parts go everywhere. Grab the silver washer and save it. Also, make sure you don't stab yourself with the drill once it goes all the way through.

[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


5) The next step is to cut the connector off and take the covering off the wires. Be carefully not to cut the wires.
[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


6) Now you can run the wires through the bolt I provided and then put the bolt through the mounting hole at the end of the mirror stock.

[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


7) Now put the washer onto the wires. I know the picture shows three washers, but only use the silver one. It's stainless steel. The other, darker washers are just plain steel. They will rust. You may even notice that some of the darker washers have tiny spots of rust on them. Alternatively, some VFRD members have used a nylon washer here instead to make mirror adjustment easier.

[image: Posted Image]


8) Next run the wires through the new mount. (Remember, you're only using the one stainless steel washer, despite what the picture below shows.)

[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


9) Now just screw the bolt into the mount and tighten everything down. Don't forgot to add some locktite. I'm actually using red locktite on these bolts. It was a toss up between blue and red, but I decided that once I tighten the bolt down I don't really want the bolt to ever come loose. So, I'm using red.

[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]


10) Now, why did I use a Philips head on my bolt? Personally, I would of preferred using an Allen head bolt, but the design on the mounts dictated that I had to use something else. I needed to allow the wires to go through the center of the bolt, but have the out of the way when you try to tighten the bolt down. With a philips head, you can push the wires to the side and use a standard screwdriver to tighten the bolt.

[image: Posted Image]


11) Now that's it's all put together, put the cap back on and repeat the process for the other side. Install the mirrors on the bike and enjoy!

[image: Posted Image]


The mirrors in action!
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More information!

Here's some pictures I snapped when I was helping Silver788 install the mirrors on his bike.


As you can see in this picture below, all that you need to do is drill a third hole through the Lobster extenders!

[image: Posted Image]

And here's the diodes solder together with some wires. You can get them at Radio Shack pretty cheap.

[image: Posted Image]

Since Silver788 had his bike de-dumbo'ed, we didn't need to splice into his harness. Just some male spade connectors and we were set.

[image: Posted Image]

And, here a front view of Silver's bike with the Lobster extenders and the Darth Bling mirrors!
[image: Posted Image]



Here's how to wire the mirrors up:

[image: Posted Image]

By wiring the bike up like this, the Emgo mirrors will act as running lights and as turn signals!

Looking at the wiring diagrams, it appears the color of the wires are the same between 5th and 6th gens.

R Running Light - Light Blue w/ White Stripe
R Turn Signal - Light Blue
L Running Light - Orange w/White Stripe
L Turn Signal - Orange
Ground - Green

Thanks for the salvage. I am trying to figure out how the hell to open up the mirror to access the bulb connector :pissed:

So it was tightwad that did the LED work eh ? I will PM him and see if he can chime in.

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on 22 January 2010 - 09:22 PM, said:

Thanks for the salvage. I am trying to figure out how the hell to open up the mirror to access the bulb connector :pissed:

So it was tightwad that did the LED work eh ? I will PM him and see if he can chime in.


OOOPSSSS!!!! :unsure:
Actually, I did get your PM, but I've had my nose to the grindstone. :comp13:
I'll try to dig up as many pictures as I can.
I didn't use the diode way. I removed the 1156 socket and I replaced it with an 1157... keep the plastic part and switch out the metal. The side tunnel is for the ground which you simply feed up, strip a little wire and bend it over the grey for ground. The contact will be made once you fit the 1157 socket back in. The running/signal wires will drop out the bottom of the socket and you'll have to test which operates which, since I can't remember.
No biggy.
Remove both existing wires and go to three for ground, running and turn signal. For three to fit, they have to be about 20-22 guage to make it down the mirror stalk and fairing. Connect to the socket wires in the mirrors if supplied with the connectors of your choice. Make them as small as possible and leave a little slack so as not to interfere with mirror adjustment. Fish through mirror stalk and leave yourself about 1 foot for now.
Install mirror to fairing when wires are into fairing. About three inches beyond that, I made 3 marr connections, should I ever need/want to remove mirrors, pull wires, etc. With any other connectors, you'd never make it through the brackets, mirror stalks etc. To finish, use the balance of the extra wire to find and splice into the ground(green), running(brown), and striped(color depends on which side) wires.
If you have '06-'09 models and wanted to run them this way as well, you would have to: a)get 1157 sockets and b)use your taillight running lite wire(brown) for your front signal running like source.
WHEW....... :beer: :beer: :beer:
I'm not sayin' it's the best way; I'm just sayin', is all. :)

[image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image][image: Posted Image]
Greg :fing02:
Ps for extra 'madness', get switchbacks and really get your freak on! :cool:
[image: Posted Image]

WHEW ! Glad you popped back in !

So I am sure I will have a few questions along the way but #1 is how the hell do you get the bulb housing outta the damned mirror casing ??? Once you take the cover off and remove the stock bulb I can see that you can twist the connector and pucsh is back into the mirror housing but I cannot figure out how to get the bulb housing out of the mirror to get access to swap the connector ???

I want to get here to start :rolleyes:
file:///C:/Users/Jarrod/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.pngfile:///C:/Users/Jarrod/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[image: Posted Image]

Thanks again for popping in to assist. I will try and take pics along the way to supplement yours for a good DIY.

PS. Wtf is a switchback ???

Twist the grey plastic counter clockwise and the whole unit pops out.
If you mean getting the lens unit out, one phillips screw in front, tilt and pull back as you remove unit, as it has a tab at the other end.
Switchbacks are led lites that automatically go from white as running lites, to amber as signal lites. They even increase forward vision at nite as well. :491:
[image: Posted Image]
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Ah you mean these bad boys ...
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Got em ! All 4 for the mirrors and the fairing signals !

So now I have the mirrors apart (way easier than I thought, thanks) and the next step will require a little more help ...
[image: Posted Image]

• How do I remove the existing bulb socket from the grey housing ?
• One of your comments has me a little confused "Remove both existing wires and go to three for ground, running and turn signal." ... I get that I will need ground, signal and running, but where do I connect these 3 wires to the 1157 connector as it came with only 2 wires (see pic) ? Do I simply tap a new wire into the existing red wire in the connector ? Or do I ground the connector chassis and the existing red and green wire work as signal and running ?[image: Posted Image]

And again ... thanks ! :fing02:

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on 24 January 2010 - 02:43 AM, said:

[image: Posted Image]

• How do I remove the existing bulb socket from the grey housing ?
• One of your comments has me a little confused "Remove both existing wires and go to three for ground, running and turn signal." ... I get that I will need ground, signal and running, but where do I connect these 3 wires to the 1157 connector as it came with only 2 wires (see pic) ? Do I simply tap a new wire into the existing red wire in the connector ? Or do I ground the connector chassis and the existing red and green wire work as signal and running ?[image: Posted Image]

And again ... thanks ! :fing02:


Use the seperate run where the black wire is and make that your ground. You bend a small strip of it over the top of the plastic and it pinches and makes contact with the metal outside of the socket when you fit the 1157 in. Either pull original socket out from top or push out from bottom, whichever is easiest. BTW, my flashing eg. is yours in operation. The above bulb is what I now have.... from 24 to now 60 led and they all operate running or flashing! :cool:
If somebody ever hits me and says: "I didn't see you", I swear on my last breath I'll flick them on and burn their retinas out!!! :dry: :mad: :pissed:

Ok so its this easy then ...

• remove 1156 connector (it slides out nicely with a little pressure)
• insert 1157 connector into housing
• slide existing black wire back against connector
• run red and green wire from 1157 connector through stock grommet where single wire was in 1156 setup
• close up and wire up to the bike ?

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on 24 January 2010 - 10:27 PM, said:

Ok so its this easy then ...

• remove 1156 connector (it slides out nicely with a little pressure)
• insert 1157 connector into housing
• slide existing black wire back against connector
• run red and green wire from 1157 connector through stock grommet where single wire was in 1156 setup
• close up and wire up to the bike ?

Pretty much. But, if you plan on re-using the white connector setup,that will take care of your running and flash +wires. The ground additional wire will still have to fit down the stalk as well. I'm going to be taking mine off to do the Repsol/Mr. Hyde thing on my bike. :ohmy: Maybe I'll take one off tomorrow and get some pics and post them up. :warranty:
Greg :fing02: :unsure:
[image: Posted Image]

If I am not doing the LEDs, what diodes do I need from the shack? Can't quite read the writing off of the pic.

[image: View Post]tarun, on 06 February 2010 - 12:09 PM, said:

If I am not doing the LEDs, what diodes do I need from the shack? Can't quite read the writing off of the pic.

I think Tightwad's got the diode specs..... :warranty:
Greg :fing02:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on 06 February 2010 - 06:31 PM, said:

[image: View Post]tarun, on 06 February 2010 - 12:09 PM, said:

If I am not doing the LEDs, what diodes do I need from the shack? Can't quite read the writing off of the pic.

I think Tightwad's got the diode specs..... :warranty:
Greg :fing02:


The Rectifier Diodes I bought from "The Shack" are item number 276-1114 Silicon 2.5A -1000V Diodes. Comes in a 3 pack.

Damn this is still on my list of mods to finish up !! So much to do and so damned little time.

After a year of semi looking around for some mirrors. I found a person who was in the midst of turning his GSXR 750 into a track bike. "How much for the mirrors" I ask, "$30.00 and they are yours". KACHING in his hands before he could change his mind. Now to tackle the mounts.

[image: Posted Image]

" Now to tackle the mounts."

This one's had me stumped. AFAIK, the DB mirror adapters are no longer available. I'll be very interested to see how you do it.

I hope to have something in about (hopefully) 8 days. Keep you posted.

Funny this post of mine should surface now, it just occurred to me that there is about 2 months till I put insurance on the bike and I had better get this mod wrapped up before the rubber hits the road.

I have my mirrors mounted but no wiring for lights yet.

For the Darth Bling mirror adaptor.

I had sent a email to both Darth Bling and HS and basically said that I wanted to copy them, sell them for my cost ( material, box to ship it in ) plus and additional $10.00 that goes back to VFRD.

If they had any issues or concerns to email me back and obviously I would respect their choice is they said no. No emails, so all is good.

Why the $10.00 you may ask, this is out of respect for the work Darth Bling put into the adaptors and to support VFRD.

I have a set in my hands from a fellow member in my area. I took it 5 CNC shops in town. each shop wanted a $100.00 per pair / min of 60 pairs ordered.

My buddy who works in a CNC shop, can do it for about $50.00 cost, min order of 40 - 50 qty. He has to charge me a min shop time to do the work.

And that is all quoted with out the powder coating

So, the cost is no where close to where I would like it. I have one other person to try...... then I have to get the adapters back to the orig owner.