Cam Chain Tensioner Help

So I have a cct just waiting to be installed on my ticking VFR but I am having no luck gaining access to the tensioner key to de-tension the cct.  One local shop was completely baffled by me asking if the key was available and the second shop looked it up and he can't even order it from Honda (and they don't lend their special tools).  Anyone have the tensioner key they would mind loaning me?  Or can someone point me in the right direction so I can purchase this mythical tool?

Thank you.

you can make your own out of some thin sheet metal. their is a diagram and diamentions in the service manual.

The best thing to use is a wire coat hanger and flaten the end with a hammer to make a blade. Because it is flexable it is easy to get in there. This i found much better than the clips or a special tool. You will be able to feel the slot and as long as you keep pushing down will work fine. Good luck.

[image: View Post]Adammac, on 02 February 2010 - 03:07 PM, said:

The best thing to use is a wire coat hanger and flaten the end with a hammer to make a blade. Because it is flexable it is easy to get in there. This i found much better than the clips or a special tool. You will be able to feel the slot and as long as you keep pushing down will work fine. Good luck.

The problem with this is the key won't lock into place, releasing the pressure while you remove the mounting bolts.  The new tensioner comes with a key, which you can safely remove (hold the tension with your hand, then release slowly).  Just remember to re-wind the tension before installing the new tensioner.

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The problem with this is the key won't lock into place, releasing the pressure while you remove the mounting bolts.  The new tensioner comes with a key, which you can safely remove (hold the tension with your hand, then release slowly).  Just remember to re-wind the tension before installing the new tensioner.

Right, hence why I am actually looking for the key and not wanting to rig something.  I purchased (1) tensioner last summer and mine did not come with the key.  And it was new in the oem Honda packaging.  It was even the newer model number.

I was going to replace just the front cct but I am now thinking of ordering the other and replacing them both.  Hopefully the new one will come with the key this time.  I am going to order it locally since the last online company I ordered from came keyless.

The key will lock the cct into place upon removal , as long as it doesnt fall out.  The key is not critical upon removal, but a must have on install.


I ordered my cct from ron ayers, and it was a complete waste of money and time.

The problem is oil flow, the cct bodies will always be subceptible to rattle until you fix that issue.

So your new tentioner could be rattling the day after install.

stick some 10w40 car oil in and see if it goes away, its cheap test, worked for me 40,000 mile ago when I was dealing with this cct issue.

I've just used a small flat blade screwdriver.  While I've not actually done this on a VTEC, the tensioner design is common across many late model Hondas and I know it works on those.

Hey if you need a key, let me know, I had first made one from a thick feeler gauge (which worked well) and then when I ordered two new CCT's, I got two more.

So, if you need one, send me your address and I'll send it to ya!   :unsure:

[image: View Post]Luvmyvfr, on 03 February 2010 - 04:54 PM, said:

Hey if you need a key, let me know, I had first made one from a thick feeler gauge (which worked well) and then when I ordered two new CCT's, I got two more.

So, if you need one, send me your address and I'll send it to ya!   :unsure:

PM SENT!!  Thanks!!

[image: View Post]spud786, on 02 February 2010 - 09:31 PM, said:

The key will lock the cct into place upon removal , as long as it doesnt fall out.  The key is not critical upon removal, but a must have on install.


I ordered my cct from ron ayers, and it was a complete waste of money and time.

The problem is oil flow, the cct bodies will always be subceptible to rattle until you fix that issue.

So your new tentioner could be rattling the day after install.

stick some 10w40 car oil in and see if it goes away, its cheap test, worked for me 40,000 mile ago when I was dealing with this cct issue.

This may not always be the case...mine was rattling for 100 miles, I left it alone figuring it was just rattle, and something popped in the motor while riding to work and it died....now I get to tear it down and see what it is/was.....

[image: View Post]grizfan, on 02 February 2010 - 05:22 PM, said:

Right, hence why I am actually looking for the key and not wanting to rig something.  I purchased (1) tensioner last summer and mine did not come with the key.  And it was new in the oem Honda packaging.  It was even the newer model number.

I was going to replace just the front cct but I am now thinking of ordering the other and replacing them both.  Hopefully the new one will come with the key this time.  I am going to order it locally since the last online company I ordered from came keyless.

All replacement CCTs come with a key pre-installed. Just buy the new ones and you will be set.

This may not always be the case...mine was rattling for 100 miles, I left it alone figuring it was just rattle, and something popped in the motor while riding to work and it died....now I get to tear it down and see what it is/was.....
[/quote]

Granted,

I've ridden VFR front tensioners rattling for over 20,000 miles, hopefully thats not the cause of your issue.

The typical front CCT body rattle(klack klack klack), is an oiling issue, and not a chain tension issue. I've utilized pressure methods to substantiate that.

Being fron CCT sits near vertical on top of the motor, hard for oil to get forced up there to lubricate the body.

I think most car oils(10w40), are not as frictional as other oils(they may be MB rated) , some how Kill the cct valve Klack. The 20w50 car oil ive had klack issue , back in early testing, so 10w40 it is.

Although replacing the cct seems to last for a while, mine, unfortunately  new one started klacking almost instantly shortly with in a couple thousand mile.

My rear one, is the original, never had any trouble with it, 67,000 mile, but its near submerged in oil all the time.

Anyway, I've had no klack since running the 10w40 car oils . nearing 30,000 mile

course these are fairly short change interval, less than 2000 mile.

The summer when the heat gets real bad, I want to try the Redline MC oil 10w40. See how it do with Max and averge coolant temps

the easiest way to fix the problem is get some riding buddies with Ducati's that have open clutch baskets....you'll never hear your CCT again   :unsure:

[image: View Post]ericlw, on 02 February 2010 - 02:36 PM, said:

you can make your own out of some thin sheet metal. their is a diagram and diamentions in the service manual.

Where in the service manual might one find these spec you talk about? I can't seem to locate them..

thanks

Dan

[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 04 February 2010 - 01:43 PM, said:

[image: View Post]ericlw, on 02 February 2010 - 02:36 PM, said:

you can make your own out of some thin sheet metal. their is a diagram and diamentions in the service manual.

Where in the service manual might one find these spec you talk about? I can't seem to locate them..

thanks

Dan

Under the Cylinder Head / Valves section page 8-13 of the downloadable manual.

[image: Posted Image]

yup thats it.i guess the the persons who run this site dont worry about copyright issues.

[image: View Post]Luvmyvfr, on 03 February 2010 - 04:54 PM, said:

Hey if you need a key, let me know, I had first made one from a thick feeler gauge (which worked well) and then when I ordered two new CCT's, I got two more.

So, if you need one, send me your address and I'll send it to ya! :beer:

I modified a feeler gauge also and like it better since I left it the full length. Honda's keys that come with(should come with) the tensioners are almost too small to twist with your fingers.

[image: Posted Image]

I like the idea of a longer key myself, as Dutch pointed out the little key is so short you have to be pretty nimble with your fingers.  Be cool to make one with a little handle on it.

[image: View Post]jasonsmith, on 04 February 2010 - 02:06 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Wistrick, on 04 February 2010 - 01:43 PM, said:

[image: View Post]ericlw, on 02 February 2010 - 02:36 PM, said:

you can make your own out of some thin sheet metal. their is a diagram and diamentions in the service manual.

Where in the service manual might one find these spec you talk about? I can't seem to locate them..

thanks

Dan

Under the Cylinder Head / Valves section page 8-13 of the downloadable manual.

[image: Posted Image]


is just me or is there a measurement missing on that diagram

Reading the thread....ahhh, i love the whine of my gear-driven cams!!! :beer:

Quote

This may not always be the case...mine was rattling for 100 miles, I left it alone figuring it was just rattle, and something popped in the motor while riding to work and it died....now I get to tear it down and see what it is/was.....

Let's hope the cams didn't jump timing and bend some valves......

[image: View Post]squirrelman, on 05 February 2010 - 02:19 AM, said:

Quote

This may not always be the case...mine was rattling for 100 miles, I left it alone figuring it was just rattle, and something popped in the motor while riding to work and it died....now I get to tear it down and see what it is/was.....

Let's hope the cams didn't jump timing and bend some valves......

The poor thing is just sitting in the garage in her fancy new clothes, waiting for me to tear into her to check.  I fear a timing issue as well.  I will start a thread on what I have to look for as not to derail this one.