In Part I of "Let the Mods Begin", last winter. I put an Ohlins rear shock on, sliders, bug buster, hugger, VFRness, powerlet, different cooling fan, desmog the VFR, painted the wheels white,and a list of other things. The VFR looks like this.
The rear end is done for now. In Part II. I'm starting to work on the front now. :biggrin: This will be expensive. :blush: I'm putting my Ohlin forks from one of my RC51's on, with Brembo radial brakes. I had bought 2 lower '01 RC51 triples, and a upper plate from a 954 off of flea-bay during the summer. Would you believe all 3 pieces are damaged. I can't use them. Fighting with paypal over this again. So I'm buying new. I was going to finish the project, then post everything at one time, but some other threads posted made me rethink that. This way we can help each other out. :fing02:
OMG that is some beautiful stuff you have there. A dream that sadly I will never experience on my viffer. I'll live vicariously through you if you don't mind.
Would love to know the total damage $ to see if it may ever be a reality.
What bars you got there Rusty? Just noticed, the tab on the standard caliper carrier for the fender isn´t there, what with those lovely radials, what will you do there?
[image: View Post]Bren, on 15 February 2010 - 12:58 AM, said:
mmmmmmmmmbeer I mean mmmm�hlins.
If you�re gonna do it, do it right :fing02:
What bars you got there Rusty? Just noticed, the tab on the standard caliper carrier for the fender isn�t there, what with those lovely radials, what will you do there?
Bren
Thanks guys. :biggrin:
The bars on the forks right now are Helibars for a CBR1000RR. I like the angle on them, but I'm going to have to cut and raise them up some. I'll wait until I have everything fitted on the VFR, before I cut them. As for the bracket to the rear fender mount on the front fender. I have to make one. Everybody who has this set-up has too.
When I'm done with this project. I'll post part numbers, and list prices. Right now I'm calling in a few IOU's for the parts. LOL So I'm getting a nice discount. :biggrin:
Looking good buddy! The upper and lower triples look so much better with the casting marks sanded off! Looks like some aluminum chips may be flying in my basement this week.
BTW, what color silver did you use to repaint them with? Are you going to put clear coat over them?
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on 15 February 2010 - 12:19 PM, said:
Russ:
Looking good buddy! The upper and lower triples look so much better with the casting marks sanded off! Looks like some aluminum chips may be flying in my basement this week.
BTW, what color silver did you use to repaint them with? Are you going to put clear coat over them?
Pete
Pete,
I used Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer first. Wet sanded that down. Then I used Dupli-Color High Perf. Wheel Coating in silver. It looks like aluminum. I don't think I need a clearcoat with this stuff, but I maybe wrong. I'll find out sometime down the road. I got the paint from Advance Auto. :fing02:
Can somebody who knows how to do that stuff put up a green faced "envy" emoticon? That's all I would need for this particular post. WOW. Beautiful front end. Dolly Parton wow.
WOW, this a build done right! It will be a think of beauty once it is all together. Cheers on the craftsmanship, and thank you for sharing. The front end swap is something that I have been meaning to do... with SP-1 forks, not the whole Sweden hog. I will be taking notes for sure.
[image: View Post]RustyA, on 15 February 2010 - 04:56 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on 15 February 2010 - 12:19 PM, said:
Russ:
Looking good buddy! The upper and lower triples look so much better with the casting marks sanded off! Looks like some aluminum chips may be flying in my basement this week.
BTW, what color silver did you use to repaint them with? Are you going to put clear coat over them?
Pete
Pete,
I used Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer first. Wet sanded that down. Then I used Dupli-Color High Perf. Wheel Coating in silver. It looks like aluminum. I don't think I need a clearcoat with this stuff, but I maybe wrong. I'll find out sometime down the road. I got the paint from Advance Auto. :fing02:
It looks great! Good move on the Self-Etching Primer - a must for painting aluminum.
[image: View Post]mello dude, on 15 February 2010 - 10:08 PM, said:
Hi Rusty - I noticed the the forks were labeled from a Super Hawk (VTR) - curious - did you do that for fork length?
MD
MD:
Read your write up on VFR World on de-linking the brakes. Great right up and great reference for the project Russ and I are doing in parallel. My pockets aren't as deep as Russ' so I'm doing the RC-51 conversion. :biggrin:
One thing Russ and I came up with today is seeing if Speigler (sp?) will make us up a custom fitting to hook the two ports together on the rear brake caliper. I've got mine laying on the bench now and just finished all the measurements. I'm going to whip out an AutoCad drawing at the office in the morning and send a pdf to Speigler and see if they can fab one (actually two).
My intention is to run the input line to the middle port underneath the connector piece. That way the connector piece will only have to have a "stagger" of 2.15 mm.
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on 15 February 2010 - 10:30 PM, said:
[image: View Post]mello dude, on 15 February 2010 - 10:08 PM, said:
Hi Rusty - I noticed the the forks were labeled from a Super Hawk (VTR) - curious - did you do that for fork length?
MD
MD:
Read your write up on VFR World on de-linking the brakes. Great right up and great reference for the project Russ and I are doing in parallel. My pockets aren't as deep as Russ' so I'm doing the RC-51 conversion. :biggrin:
One thing Russ and I came up with today is seeing if Speigler (sp?) will make us up a custom fitting to hook the two ports together on the rear brake caliper. I've got mine laying on the bench now and just finished all the measurements. I'm going to whip out an AutoCad drawing at the office in the morning and send a pdf to Speigler and see if they can fab one (actually two).
My intention is to run the input line to the middle port underneath the connector piece. That way the connector piece will only have to have a "stagger" of 2.15 mm.
[image: View Post]mello dude, on 15 February 2010 - 10:08 PM, said:
Hi Rusty - I noticed the the forks were labeled from a Super Hawk (VTR) - curious - did you do that for fork length?
MD
The forks are for a RC51. In this country, it's also called "RVT". Over seas, it's called "VTR". And over there. They don't call it a RC51, but either a SP1 or SP2.
It originally came silver, but I had it stripped and anodized black.
I've been though your thread a couple of times (100+). I did notice your upper plate. :fing02: Was thinking about it. But it's too much bling. :laugh: I was looking for the factory look. :laugh:
[image: View Post]RustyA, on 16 February 2010 - 05:33 PM, said:
I've been though your thread a couple of times (100+). I did notice your upper plate. :fing02: Was thinking about it. But it's too much bling. :laugh: I was looking for the factory look. :laugh:
I'm been waiting for the fedx man to show up for the last 3 days :angry: with some more parts. :biggrin: I decided to install a Powerlet that I had, and tighwads mod for the 6 head light set-up with PIAA bulbs.
Now I have 2 Powerlet outlets on the VFR. One under the left hand grip on the black panel, and the new one next to the left side passager peg.
!@#$%^ fedx man finally got here. Said he was here on Thur, and Fri. But I was here both days until 6pm. Go figure. :pissed: What came today was the 19 RSC brake master cylinder, 16 RSC clutch master cylinder, HPK 320mm rotors, and some hardware. I'm going to have to get some spacers for the calipers so they fit right. That's next on my to do list. Now it's all little stuff that will drive me crazy. :goofy: Now more porn for your viewing pleasure. :biggrin:
[image: View Post]Tumbler, on 23 February 2010 - 01:35 PM, said:
jeebus, you aren't messing around. We will have to do some riding this summer, i would like to pick your brain about some viffer stuff as well.
We talked abit at the gas station in Carmichaels last summer. Right?
Just shoot me a PM. :fing02:
Up date time. :biggrin: I needed to shim my rotors out some. 1.5mm. So they will be centered in the radial calipers. I wanted to get my shims laser cut. But all of the shops around here are buried with work from the gas well drillers. Lead time would be 6-8 weeks. :angry: I want them NOW! So I decided I will do it my self. :biggrin:
In this picture. I got my shim stock under the rotor. I used a hole transfer punch to mark the shim stock. I also marked the inside of the rotor too.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1096.jpg
Here you can see the holes that I drilled and the mark for the center hole.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1097.jpg
I used my rotor-zip with a dry-wall bit to cut out the center hole. That dry-wall bit cut nice!
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1098.jpg
Next, I mounted my shim on the wheel.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1099.jpg
Then I bolted the rotor on.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1100.jpg
Then I flipped the rim over. And marked the backside of the shim.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1101.jpg
Got the shim set up.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1102.jpg
Used the rotor-zip again.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1103.jpg
And now I have my shim maded. :biggrin:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1104.jpg
I ended up making 4 of them as I screwed up a couple of times. :angry:
Way cool Rusty, I went with separate shims for my R1 wheel but always thought that a one-piece shim would have been better... might have to follow your very concise instructions sometime :fing02:
Can you do me up a 929/945 top just like you did yours... oh and send it to me? You can have all the Ohlins you want, along with Brembo's... but what you did with that upper was sheer class. Seriously, can you send me one :goofy:
Good luck with it, totally sharp.
Muz I may need to pick your brain a bit this year. Hope the ankles are holding (you) up.
I needed a lower bearing race spacer for in the steering head. So with all the local machine shops busy. I starting to think how can I do this. I seen some of the other ways that some have spaced the lower bearing race. So here's what I did. :biggrin:
Needing 3mm spacer made. I got some 1/8" plate. Miked it at 0.125". 3mm is 0.118". So I'm good to go. Sprayed some paint on the plate so that my marks stand out. Position the race on the plate and clamped it.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1107.jpg
You can see the lines. Also at this time. You should use a center punch and mark the lines. You'll see later.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1108.jpg
Got my plate clamped down, and a hole drilled.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1110.jpg
Bigger hole makes things easier.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1111.jpg
Here you can see the center punch marks. I'm using my rotor-zip again with a 1/8" burr bit from a dremel tool.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1112.jpg
Inside of the spacer is cut out.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1113.jpg
Staring to cut the outside away using a cutoff wheel.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1114.jpg
Working it round.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1115.jpg
Using a stone to remove the high spots. I miked it at 0.122". Here's it is finished. :biggrin:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1116.jpg
Now, I'm waiting on my 10mm x1.25mm x 75mm cap screw bolts, and the 16mm spacers for the calipers to come. :angry: I hate waitin'!
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on 06 March 2010 - 09:08 PM, said:
Russ:
Given any thought to spending $600-700 for a 3 x 12 Grizzly Manufacturing/Harbor Freight lathe? Makes making those spacers/shims/etc 20 times easier.
Pete
There's a bunch of things I would like. A nice lathe, a Bridgeport, sandblast booth, a garage to put this stuff in, etc,etc. LOL I had free access to alot of this stuff until the gas well drillers showed up and needed their equipment fixed. I got friends in a couple of machine shops. They say all of their machines are busy with work. So I can't use them until work slows up. Unless I want to pay for shop time. $$$$$$
Update time. I got my brake rotor spacing and my brake caliper spacing figured out. :woohoo: So the next step is to remove the old brakes and equipment. And to install the forks and everything else. I'm off this weekend. So if pigs don't fly. I should have the frontend mounted up for the most part. Here's some teaser pic's. :fing02:
Pigs ain't fling yet. But weekend ain't over yet either.
Took the lower bridge and taper bearing to work on Tuesday night. I was going to use the press there. I had everything set to do on my break. My co-worker decided he was going to help me by installing the lower bearing for me. He used our bearing heater. Needless to say. He cooked it. :pissed: He must of had it to around 600F for that color. The bearing's ruined. I had to overnight a new bearing set, so that I could have them for today. Shipping was more then the bearings. :pissed:
Problem. The lower bridge is hitting the bolts for the oil cooler on both sides.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1140.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1143.jpg
Fix for the problem. I drilled new holes 10mm from the old holes, and straighten the oil line out some.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1149.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1148.jpg
Front fender installed.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1141.jpg
Front wheel installed.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1142.jpg
'09 CBR1000 Helibars installed. I'm going to cut and put a spacer in them to raise them up some.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1145.jpg
Problem with the Brembo master cylinder hitting the throttle housing. I had to drill a new locating hole in the tube to reposition the housing.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1146.jpg
This is everything that come off the VFR for delinking the brakes. I think this was the hardest part so far. Trying to be careful because of the brake fluid.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1147.jpg
Everything when kind of smooth today. Everything dropped right in to place. :woohoo: The few problems I got, was nothing big. Thank god. :fing02: Now I need brake hoses, and a clutch hose to mate up with the Brembo master cylinders. And some other odds and ends.
When I put mine on, all the parts were at ambient temp and it went together no problems.
I took the inner race out from the OLD bearing, and went at the I.D. of it with some emery cloth until it slid onto the steering stem easily all the way and back off again, then used that plus a suitable piece of pipe to drive the new bearing in place.
A little grease on the stem, plus a little on the ID of the new bearing, a few tape, and it slid home just fine.
great job on the part selection ,brembo's are so bling'n like what youv'e done so far ,when i did mine i used a cbr1000r front fender and the ohlin fittings for it to make the install easier for the fender speigler will make custom lines with the fittings you choose ,i also read vfr800canucks article . rob's an genious and a really cool guy ,wish you luck on your project .i will be watching.
[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 21 March 2010 - 09:17 AM, said:
I took the inner race out from the OLD bearing, and went at the I.D. of it with some emery cloth until it slid onto the steering stem easily all the way and back off again, then used that plus a suitable piece of pipe to drive the new bearing in place.
I took the old races and sliced through each with an anglegrinder; they work perfectly as drifts like that. I've had my bearings in and out a few times doing my USD front end.
[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 20 March 2010 - 07:17 PM, said:
Sorry to hear your bearing got smoked.
When I put mine on, all the parts were at ambient temp and it went together no problems.
I took the inner race out from the OLD bearing, and went at the I.D. of it with some emery cloth until it slid onto the steering stem easily all the way and back off again, then used that plus a suitable piece of pipe to drive the new bearing in place.
A little grease on the stem, plus a little on the ID of the new bearing, a few tape, and it slid home just fine.
I got a nice press at work. It would have taken me about 10 seconds to press the bearing on. I had everything set up to do it. I was just waiting for my break to do it. My co-worker wanted in on the job. :pissed: I told him what I was doing. Pressing the bearing on. He decided he was going to help me out, by doing it himself without me. :pissed: He got the bearing heater out and heated (cooked) the bearing. He never used one before. He never set the thermostat on it. He said he watched it turn blue, and figured it was hot enough to install. He said the bearing dropped right on. I checked the bearing and it was shot. The cage was bent some how and the rollers was real loose. :pissed: Needless to say, I haven't talked to him since. :pissed: And he knows I'm :pissed: at him.
[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 20 March 2010 - 11:15 PM, said:
Rusty, did you see the way I lengthened my helibars?
Ultimately, I re-did the spacer and shortened it, but the procedure is the same:
When I read your write up on this. This is where I got the idea to use Helibars. :fing02: I looked all though the Helibar website looking at the different bars. And decided to use CBR1000 bars. As they was the best choice for what I had in mind. Predrilled for the locating pins in the control housings, and I figured I would only would need a 3/4" spacer made. On the left bar. I didn't have to do anything with the locating hole. It was prefect. On the right side bar. Because I'm using Brembo master cylinder. The brake level was hitting where the throttle cable comes out of the housing. So I had to redrill the locating hole for the housing. I'm going to TIG weld the old hole closed later on.
[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 20 March 2010 - 11:48 PM, said:
Breathe, that's it, good air in, bad air out!
Could have been worse, he could have buggered the stem instead!
Guess where I wanted to put that bearing heater at! Where the sun don't shine. LOL That's what I told him too. LOL I won't see him until next Wednesday night shift. I want to see if he speaks to me first. ;)
[image: View Post]RustyA, on 20 March 2010 - 09:52 PM, said:
When I read your write up on this. This is where I got the idea to use Helibars.
Right on. Make sure it's a good tight press-fit. I had to hammer mine together with a hard plastic deadblow hammer!
Then, you can clamp the handlebars so the pinch bolts are where you want them, plus clock the uprights where you need them for clearance, then rotate the bars back and forth so the angles are correct for your application.
Then, since the press-fit is real tight, you can mark them with a sharpie (in case) then remove the bars and they shouldn't move at all until you get them welded up.
I see your handlebar uprights are basically at about 9 and 3 o'clock from the pics?
I put mine closer to the rider for more fairing clearance and comfort.
More like 7:30 and 4:30-ish. Basically right about where standard VFR800 Helibars would be anyhow.
If you don't like where the pinch bolts line up, you can always swap them L for R and get another option there before welding.
BTW, my modded handlebars did not bend in the crash. The LH one broke the bar-end weight off, and the handlebar rotated the pinch clamp a bit on the fork leg, but the bar isn't bent. :fing02:
[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 21 March 2010 - 12:01 AM, said:
[image: View Post]RustyA, on 20 March 2010 - 09:52 PM, said:
When I read your write up on this. This is where I got the idea to use Helibars.
Right on. Make sure it's a good tight press-fit. I had to hammer mine together with a hard plastic deadblow hammer!
Then, you can clamp the handlebars so the pinch bolts are where you want them, plus clock the uprights where you need them for clearance, then rotate the bars back and forth so the angles are correct for your application.
Then, since the press-fit is real tight, you can mark them with a sharpie (in case) then remove the bars and they shouldn't move at all until you get them welded up.
I see your handlebar uprights are basically at about 9 and 3 o'clock from the pics?
I put mine closer to the rider for more fairing clearance and comfort.
More like 7:30 and 4:30-ish. Basically right about where standard VFR800 Helibars would be anyhow.
If you don't like where the pinch bolts line up, you can always swap them L for R and get another option there before welding.
I'm doing the samething you did. :fing02: Think I'm going to clock the bars close to stock position, maybe a little rearward.
Early I said that I drilled new holes for the oil cooler and move it forward 10mm to clear the bolts on the lower bridge. DON"T DO IT! This puts the oil cooler into the backside of the front cowl.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1150.jpg
So after having a few over this. :beer: I decided to put the oil cooler back in place. And cut the rubber isolators and the spacer/washer down some.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1151.jpg
I got enough clearance for it to work.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1152.jpg
It's starting to look like something now. :woohoo:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1153.jpg
I already have plans for Part III next winter. :491:
Why you decided not to put the Variobars? I'm having some trouble trying on to put all the parts togheter, but for some reasons it's been a difficult work... I'm now looking for new pumps to not to hit the screen with the stock ones...
[image: View Post]furylow, on 21 March 2010 - 01:55 PM, said:
Hi RustyA, nice work!
Why you decided not to put the Variobars? I'm having some trouble trying on to put all the parts togheter, but for some reasons it's been a difficult work... I'm now looking for new pumps to not to hit the screen with the stock ones...
Cheers from spain!
Took me awhile to figure them out too. I had trouble with the Varibars hitting when I adjusted them to be comfortable. The reservoirs for the clutch and brake would hit the plastic pieces for the windshield. When I adjusted them to clear everything. I didn't like the positioning of them. I tried the 60mm, 70mm, 80mm and 100mm raisers. Nothing worked to make them comfortable without hitting something. With stock master cylinders, you can't rotate the brake and clutch levels down far enough to feel good too. I may give them another try with the RC front end now. Since I'm using Brembo cylinders. Just another option I got right now.
[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 21 March 2010 - 02:00 PM, said:
I can't answer for Rusty, but I think the Variobars are beautiful, as is anything built by Gilles Tooling. :wub:
Only problem is, they're VERY expensive. :(
They will melt your credit card in a heart beat too if you get different raisers for them too! :( They're a PITA to set up for the VFR. :mad: Had no problem with them on my one RC51.
[image: View Post]RustyA, on 22 March 2010 - 04:04 AM, said:
[image: View Post]furylow, on 21 March 2010 - 01:55 PM, said:
Hi RustyA, nice work!
Why you decided not to put the Variobars? I'm having some trouble trying on to put all the parts togheter, but for some reasons it's been a difficult work... I'm now looking for new pumps to not to hit the screen with the stock ones...
Cheers from spain!
Took me awhile to figure them out too. I had trouble with the Varibars hitting when I adjusted them to be comfortable. The reservoirs for the clutch and brake would hit the plastic pieces for the windshield. When I adjusted them to clear everything. I didn't like the positioning of them. I tried the 60mm, 70mm, 80mm and 100mm raisers. Nothing worked to make them comfortable without hitting something. With stock master cylinders, you can't rotate the brake and clutch levels down far enough to feel good too. I may give them another try with the RC front end now. Since I'm using Brembo cylinders. Just another option I got right now.
Bloody hell! Same as me! So... 100mm extensions didn't worked? I was going to purchase them, as long as longer brake / clutch lines...I'm having the same problem as you, the pumps are touching the screen when I set it "confortable" for my riding...
My last chance is to put nissin axial pumps with remote reservoir, I've got a stock 5/8" from a '90 gixxer and I'm looking for a nissin clutch pump...
Here's how it looks on my bike...
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/furylow/gilles%20handlebars/IMG_0070.jpg
[image: View Post]furylow, on 22 March 2010 - 02:50 AM, said:
[image: View Post]RustyA, on 22 March 2010 - 04:04 AM, said:
[image: View Post]furylow, on 21 March 2010 - 01:55 PM, said:
Hi RustyA, nice work!
Why you decided not to put the Variobars? I'm having some trouble trying on to put all the parts togheter, but for some reasons it's been a difficult work... I'm now looking for new pumps to not to hit the screen with the stock ones...
Cheers from spain!
Took me awhile to figure them out too. I had trouble with the Varibars hitting when I adjusted them to be comfortable. The reservoirs for the clutch and brake would hit the plastic pieces for the windshield. When I adjusted them to clear everything. I didn't like the positioning of them. I tried the 60mm, 70mm, 80mm and 100mm raisers. Nothing worked to make them comfortable without hitting something. With stock master cylinders, you can't rotate the brake and clutch levels down far enough to feel good too. I may give them another try with the RC front end now. Since I'm using Brembo cylinders. Just another option I got right now.
Bloody hell! Same as me! So... 100mm extensions didn't worked? I was going to purchase them, as long as longer brake / clutch lines...I'm having the same problem as you, the pumps are touching the screen when I set it "confortable" for my riding...
My last chance is to put nissin axial pumps with remote reservoir, I've got a stock 5/8" from a '90 gixxer and I'm looking for a nissin clutch pump...
Here's how it looks on my bike...
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/furylow/gilles%20handlebars/IMG_0070.jpg
What I did for awhile was to remove the black plastic pieces on the windshield, and use a washer there to hold that part of the windshield in place. Looked ugly, but the pumps as you call them cleared. I called OPP Racing about them hitting. And they sell a kit. It contains 2 bolts and 2 washers for removing the plastic pieces.
I'm trying to sort-out the problem with the variobar... The problem is... �Is all the work worth?
Sorry to reply on your post and no create a new one, RustyA, but your're the one that can help me (not so much people has installed the variobar...)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/furylow/gilles%20handlebars/23032010097.jpg
[image: View Post]furylow, on 23 March 2010 - 01:58 PM, said:
I'm trying to sort-out the problem with the variobar... The problem is... �Is all the work worth?
Sorry to reply on your post and no create a new one, RustyA, but your're the one that can help me (not so much people has installed the variobar...)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/furylow/gilles%20handlebars/23032010097.jpg
No problem. Here to help. What size raiser you using? 60mm, 70mm.
[image: View Post]furylow, on 24 March 2010 - 04:43 AM, said:
Actually I'm using 70mm risers but don't see diference at all with the genmar. Is the 100mm extension worth?
ThePhantom, thanks for the info, I have purchased a nissin clutch from a fzr1000... I'll see how it works.
Figure the 100mm risers are 30mm taller then the 70's. So see if you think you got room for another 30mm in height
[image: View Post]furylow, on 25 March 2010 - 02:45 AM, said:
if moved backward instead of forward I hope It can be, but the thing is, I would have to change the brake, clutch and accel lines... �did you do that?
Regards
I was having a brain fart with the 100mm risers until now. If you use them. You will have to get longer lines for everything. That's why I didn't use them.
I got my spacers made for the helibars. Took 2 weeks for the machine shop to make them. Shops are that busy around here.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1159.jpg
Cutting the bars.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1160.jpg
Installed the spacers. Had to prick punch the one end to tighten it up. Machine shop under sized it alittle. The spacers are a tight fit, so that I can move them around to adjust them. Installed the bars on the bike, and adjusted them to where they are comfortable. And nothing hits. :biggrin:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1161.jpg
I tack welded the bars in 2 places on the bike once I got them adjusted. Then I removed them. And TIG welded everything together. I then smoothed out my welds and dye check them for cracks. Everything good. :biggrin:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1163.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1164.jpg
Here's the old stock forks. :biggrin:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1165.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1166.jpg
Now I got to strip the old coating off the bars, and repaint them. Thinking on the same color as my top plate. Also waiting for my brake lines which are on back order. :mad:
By the looks of his calipers, it's a non-ABS bike. ABS bikes have gold calipers. It wouldn't affect how the bike runs anyway - it may cause the ABS error light to stay on, but that's easily solved by removing the light behind the spot on the gauge.
[image: View Post]furylow, on 01 April 2010 - 11:46 AM, said:
Does you bike have ABS?
How have you sorted it make it run properly?
No ABS. Didn't want it to begin with. Don't like linked brakes either. I'm old school. :)
[image: View Post]vfrrider, on 01 April 2010 - 02:14 PM, said:
Rusty,
Maybe I'm beating a dead horse (again), but have you thought about moving the oil cooler forward and DOWN to clear the fairing?
Just an idea?
Larry
VFRrider
That thought has crossed my mind. The stock oil lines are HARD to bend. Would have to redo the oil lines with Parker fittings and some stainless tubing. Don't know how far down I could move it without having the fender hitting it. Right now it's back in the stock position. I have something else in mind for next winter mods. :biggrin:
[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 30 March 2010 - 05:39 PM, said:
Great stuff Rusty!
I'm starting to wonder if you did your own Ti hip replacement too?? :unsure::laugh:
You should have been a fly on the wall. When me and the doc who did the operation was discussing everything before hand. LOL He told me I knew too much, and to shut up. He's doing the cutting, not me. LOL He also rides a beemer. :tour:
Clip-ons are done and painted.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1167.jpg
Here's the brake reservoir mounted with the bracket that came with it. I don't like that bracket. :(
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1168.jpg
Oh yes, what can I do with this? :cool:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1169.jpg
Make my own brackets with it of course. Started off using 1/16"x1/2" aluminum flat stock. Found out it's too flexy. Ended up using 1/8"x 1/2" flat stock. I made something like 6 brackets for the brake reservoir before I called it a night.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1170.jpg
Checking for clearance.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1171.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1172.jpg
Looking at it from different angles.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1173.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1174.jpg
Got the rear brake line made, and installed. Same for the front brake lines. I'm using 2 lines on the master cylinder. Just got done bleeding them. The brake lever has LOTS of adjustment for travel. Now I'm waiting on more stainless line to come. So I can make up my clutch line. It's on back order. Also thinking on changing the brake reservoir. I don't like the location of the fitting on the bottom is. I'm going to see if I can get one that comes straight down, not angled.
I wanted to be riding by Easter. But because of a backorder. I should be riding on Monday. :tour:
I made my own brake and clutch lines. Using a kit from denniskirk. It's a -3 clearcoated stainless line, that's DOT approved. Here's the fitting ready to be installed.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1176.jpg
Slip the first piece on to the hose.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1177.jpg
Slip the next piece on the hose until it stops.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1178.jpg
Now screw the banjo fitting on.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1179.jpg
Next, screw the first piece you put on, on to the 2nd piece you put on. Until it flush, and the flats line up. And you're done with that end. :fing02:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1180.jpg
I'm going to change the brake reservoir, and the clutch reservoir. What's on there now is a 45cc brake, and a 15cc clutch. I found 2 30cc reservoirs with the nipple position that I wanted. Hopefully, they should be here this week.
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />RustyA, on 06 April 2010 - 07:48 PM, said:
Oh my, that is one awe inspiring front end there Rusty. So looking forward to the ride reports, I would love to hear about the brakes now as well. Always thought of doing a line job.
I got my new fluid reservoirs. I have a 30cc for the brake , and I'm still using a 15cc for the clutch.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i277/russandler/VFR%20Forks/DSCN1199.jpg
Took a shake down ride today. And got the VFR inspected also. Ended up with about 200 miles on the clock. :tour:
All I can say about the new front brakes is HOLY SH!T! OMFG! I can splatter my eyeballs on the face shield. :ph34r: LOL With the master cylinder set at 18. It's right now brakes with 2 fingers. Lever moves about a 1/4". Stoppies, no problem! Move the adjustment to 20. Still mojo brakes, but more controlled, more feel. LOL Lever moves about 5/8" on that setting. If anybody has rode a RC51 with the HRC hard bite pads, stainless lines, and a radial master cylinder. You know what I'm talking about. These are about 5%-10% more.
Now for the forks. Butterly smooth! Silk! 1000% better then the stock forks. I'm going to get in touble now! My comfort level went up 15 mph. :squid: I still got to play with the damping some. I'm using the setting that I had when the forks were on my RC 51. I just need a little more time on it. :wheel:
With the Brembo clutch cylinder. I can have a hard feeling lever or a softer feeling lever. Nice choice to have. And I can adjust the lever more then the stock one.
The other minor bug is the rear brakes. Right now I'm using the stock master cylinder. It's a 17.4mm bore. Need a 14mm bore. Nothing on flea-bay. So I'm waiting for a new RC51 rear master cylinder from the local dealer. Should be here on friday. With the set up right now. I got brake pedal. Just have to STAND on the rear pedal to think about slowing down. LOL I knew I was going to run into this, but I had to ride it! :wheel: