I've never done any paint or body work until I started this project. I did some bodywork to my gas tank and I've been repairing and prepping all my plastics. My goal is to paint the bike, INEXPENSIVELY, and have it look decent. I have no problem putting in the labor on the prep work although I'm sure it won't be perfect due to my inexperience.
I came across this paint on the JEGS website. I'm planning to buy a ~$20 harbor freight spray gun (like this? ) I have access to a 5000 sq ft HEATED shop with a huge air compressor and I was thinking of using an oil/water separator like this.
I'm not going for a factory finish. Just something that looks decent. I'm thinking of shooting a "hugger orange" or "candy orange" (using Toro's bike for inspiration). Probably rattle can primer, then shoot the dupli-color base and clear coats. Base and clear run about $20/quart each.
As a rule of thumb, "inexpensive" and "quality" do not go hand-in-hand when it comes to autobody work and products. Go get yourself some SEM brand filler primer and primer, then follow up with a name brand color and clear system like PPG. If you don't want to spend the money on quality stuff, you might as well go pick up a can of Rustoleum(non-aerosol) and shoot that. If you want to shoot color and clear out of the same gun, make sure you get a good gun cleaning kit and get real familiar with cleaning it, the color will contaminate the clear.
I like PPG's DBU system, and I usually topcoat with UPOL brand clear when shooting it, because it's cheaper than PPG and shoots/turns out real nice.
Unfortunately, it lasted about a year as the paint wasn't durable enough especially the gas tank. The red wings are vinyl.
Next time, I order a complete professional base/clear "kit" system from an ebay vendor for about $150. Bought a $100 HVLP gun from Lowes, air filters, made a paint booth "clean room" and tried to do everything right. You will also want a real air respirator not a simple paper filter mask.
The temperature working range for the clear was too low for south Texas so it set too quickly giving me a crinkle type finish and clogging up the gun. ARRRGGGGHHHH! All the work and expense....... Live and learn. Note: pic hides it well. I sold it all to a guy wanting track skins and put the original red back on.
The third time (SuperHawk) I got a auto repair shop to do it. I was able to swap out professional services so it was "free". It has a couple of very minor runs (basically unnoticeable) in the clear but was otherwise top notch. I later sold it to the first person to come to see it in person.
I agree, after doing autobody work and painting for 9 years you get what you pay for with paint. You can get away with a cheaper paint gun, but make sure you clean it very well before you clear it. But the paint, go into your local autobody supply store and get their recommendation on what paint to use. If you use the cheap stuff you will go through all of the prep work, all of the paint work, all of the cleanup work only to have the paint last a year or so. Then you'll have to do it all over again.
i never even thought of doing it myself.... I found the best painter in the area and told him what i wanted and i worked some overtime to save up
what it would cost to get it done right... He charged me for quality work and i got a quality job done right.
Looking back i wouldnt even think of doing this myself.... EBAY has cheap skins for the VFR if you need or want somehting different... BUT i have to agree ORANGE ROCKS
Well, I went against everyone's advice and bought similar stuff to that I mentioned in the first post. $50 HVLP gun, $20 qt base, $20 qt clear. The main thing for me right now is CHEAP. I may end up re-painting the bike next winter or something but for now I'm basically looking for something just 1 step up from giving it the Krylon touch.
I'll take some pics along the way and update everyone on my $100 paint job as it comes together.
End of thread · 8 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 22 Oct 2010