Well, its that time of year again. Time to break the bike apart and fix the broken stuff. Actually I have more time and a better shop space to work in this time so I plan to do it better. I have no money, but VISA can fund this one, because fuck it, that's why.
Some of you might have scanned through last year's assault (Round One) which finished up with reasonable results for a VFR beginner. However, it wasn't all gravy. My valve covers with their new gaskets leaked because I didn't use any bonding agent as recommended. Got the Hondabond ready and waiting in the shop this time around. I didn't even check the valves last time out of sheer laziness. The rotors I bought ended up being warped so I put the stockers back on. Gotta figure out some reasonable cost rotors. Anyone?
I've tracked a few trips on Fuelly.com and I'm averaging 32 mpg. Not impressed.
Things to do:
clean and synch the carbs
New rubber
paint or powder coat wheels black
Rebuild the forks with fresh springs
Replace swing arm (photos of damage on the current one coming)
refinish the plastics
new brake rotors
new wheel bearings
new signal lights all around
replace start button switch
replace choke thumb lever
fix fuel level sender (damn light fades on and off all the time)
A modest list of goals and pretty much no upgrades, still going stock. As much as I'd love to buy Seb's F3 front end, I just don't want that kind of VISA debt over my head, plus sourcing a matching rear wheel, spacers, machining... not enough time for it all. Stock and reliable for this coming season.
In June, I plan to ride from Saint John, NB (east coast, on the ocean) out to Prince George, BC. (map). Of course if I go that far I'll probably have to ride the last stretch to the ocean just to officially touch both on the one trip. Make it official. ;)
I have 2.5 months to get this monster apart and back together again and not fail out of school. Guess I better get started...
Ok, well the whole "keep it stock and reliable" quickly went to hell in a hand basket.
So far I have ordered:
F3 front end
'93 VFR front wheel /w rotor
bidding on F2 rear wheel on ebay (ending soon)
replacement rear caliper
replacement torque arm to be cut and welded
blinkers
replacement controls
working on some clip-ons
Today I just drained the oil and coolant and pulled the rad. Not much accomplished on the bike. I did learn to solder copper piping though and fixed a leak in the basement.
Already sending out a thanks to Seb and Greg for big help.
Starting to price tires, open to any recommendations for long-wear touring tires.
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 31 March 2010 - 06:23 AM, said:
Check this thread if you need cheap tires - http://www.vfrdiscus..._1
Happy to help!
Bwuahahaha! I checked out EPGMoto.com to price up the Contimotions. $163 for the 120/160 pair and they want $164 for shipping USPS express. Only option given on the site. Entirely ridiculous. I know there are other options but I had to share that one.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 31 March 2010 - 09:29 AM, said:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 31 March 2010 - 06:23 AM, said:
Check this thread if you need cheap tires - http://www.vfrdiscus..._1
Happy to help!
Bwuahahaha! I checked out EPGMoto.com to price up the Contimotions. $163 for the 120/160 pair and they want $164 for shipping USPS express. Only option given on the site. Entirely ridiculous. I know there are other options but I had to share that one.
$158 shipped to your door if you read through the thread above. :fing02: That shipping is nuts, HAS to be a mistake?!? :unsure:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 31 March 2010 - 09:51 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 31 March 2010 - 09:29 AM, said:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 31 March 2010 - 06:23 AM, said:
Check this thread if you need cheap tires - http://www.vfrdiscus..._1
Happy to help!
Bwuahahaha! I checked out EPGMoto.com to price up the Contimotions. $163 for the 120/160 pair and they want $164 for shipping USPS express. Only option given on the site. Entirely ridiculous. I know there are other options but I had to share that one.
$158 shipped to your door if you read through the thread above. :fing02: That shipping is nuts, HAS to be a mistake?!? :unsure:
Shipping deals only to continental US. Price difference was phone-in special vs. internet posted price... don't think shipping is a mistake though. I compared at Dennis Kirk, tires were cheaper listed and shipping was $72 + duty + tax (13%)... still comes to $100 shipping.
-- front wheel is in transit, with a pile of other stuff (mystery box WOOHOO!!!) thanks Greg!
-- front forks, triple and stem in transit with local connections to sort out what might need sorting out
-- Fox Twin Clicker is on its way to Jamie Daugherty. (Poor bastard is busier than a one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest.)
-- 5th gen handle bars are coming in from another forum member
-- Cortech Tribag setup is on its way from New Enough.
-- rear wheel is in transit (edited) :cheerleader:
Damn I just dropped a pile of money! :woohoo:
Apparently its shop time now. I need some beer. :beer:
Well, I was almost dreading the battle with the carbs. Did some reading on here and read a few posts. Greg gave me confidence when he said it was a snap. Someone else had mentioned using a 1x2 board.
I found 3 of the 4 boots the screw clamps were completely loose and spun around freely. One was tight. *sigh*
Anyway, loosened them all up good and used two 1x2 to pry up the back carbs evenly. Popped off slowly and evenly in a few seconds. Pulled straight out from there. No battle.
Just thought I'd post my happy news for the day. Its a beautiful spring day hitting 16 C out there, sunny. Only thing could be better is it could be June with the Frankenviffer pulling me across the country. Ah well, that time will come.
Found one jet partly clogged. Now unclogged.
Found on float floating too low, now set back to 9 mm.
Cleaned out some very faint fuel residue.
Accidentally got carb cleaner on one float bowl gasket and it wouldn't hold its shape in the groove. Couple dabs of contact cement on the outer edge did the trick. Wish me luck with that one.
Sounds great, man. You're doing everything I had always wanted to do with my '86. I ended up just buying a used '98 instead! But good luck, definitely good to see this stuff happening, keep on posting.
[image: View Post]duderadidea, on 04 April 2010 - 04:10 PM, said:
Sounds great, man. You're doing everything I had always wanted to do with my '86. I ended up just buying a used '98 instead! But good luck, definitely good to see this stuff happening, keep on posting.
Thanks! :-) I bet all this work and the '98 is still a big leap ahead. I try not to think about it. The '86 is just a sick obsession. :goofy:
So, the replacement swingarm I picked up last year is pretty nasty. Usual I guess. But first, here is my current swingarm and why it's being replaced:
I'm thinking of powder coating the rims faded bronze/gold, picking up a few gold/black and maybe silver decals from xtremedecals. Their decal colors are here to give you an idea of the shade.
Then I'll round it out with a bronze tinted touring windscreen. Was going to two-tone the fairings dark charcoal on black but think for now I'll make it easy on myself and just clean them up and redo the gloss black.
Thoughts?
Here's an example from Classic Motorcycle Mechanics magazine. This is a brighter, lighter gold than I want, but its along those lines. Plus I'll have fatter wheels. :-)
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on 05 April 2010 - 11:28 PM, said:
Great project, I like your idea on the wheels
I'm also a fan of the old Honda wing like on the video above, gives a cool retro look (in my opinion) [image: Posted Image]
Hi again MrMatt. I kinda like those too. I'll have to decide on some kinda scheme pretty soon.
In the mean time, back at the swing arm for a while today. Cleaned up decent. Don't know if I'll put any more work into flash and bling. I popped out all the bearing seals, wiped them down and repacked them. Everything feels good. If there was something simple I could do to clean up the flat/tarnished look to the aluminum (like the aluminum foil + coke to polish chrome) I would brighten it up but I'll probably just leave it.
I have two jacks as you see in the photo, two jack stands, and lots of 2x4. And a saw.
I found a broken screw tab on the sprocket cover. Not sure how important that is going to. It might be taking some of the stress from the clutch slave cylinder though. It's the bottom right corner near the shift lever.
[image: View Post]200sr20, on 07 April 2010 - 02:44 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 03 April 2010 - 09:49 AM, said:
]
--- Ugh - $14/each plus shipping at bike bandit. Anyone got a better line on some? ---
You might check Hose Techniques They might have something that fits.
Thanks mate. I just ordered them from the dealership couple hours ago with a two gaskets. $85. Ouch.
I would take my time on this stuff and try to save some more money but I need the bike fully ready for a 12,000km trip starting mid-June. Which means it has be to back together and test ridden well before then. And the extent of this overhaul, I'm not taking chances on the little things. :-)
[image: View Post]gll429, on 06 April 2010 - 07:20 PM, said:
if you can have it welded up for 5 bucks or so.. do it.. over all i thnk it just stops the vibes on the cage..
I'd agree, its the farthest screw away from the clutch slave so it probably doesn't carry much load. You might also find one on ebay for cheap
Mine doesn't have a center stand but I got a 3ft section of stainless rod and put it through the holes in the frame where the center stand would have gone and put the ends on blocks, that would probably do for getting the swingarm off
[image: Posted Image] DSC01528.JPG
I'll have to look, but I don't think I have holes through the frame where a centre stand would go. Hmmm... looks convenient though.
Edit: Oh wait, yup there it is. Behind the exhaust pipe. Had no planned on fighting with that to get it off. Likely has never been off in its 80,000km life and would cause me more problems taking it off. Might be able to rig something up to sit the bike on the bottom of the frame section with the holes in it though, just inside the exhaust.
Less stable, but no kids or pets running around in there. Should be alright.
Didn't put her up yet but I got the valve adjustment done. Couple hours all told. Lost my feeler gauges somewhere along the way so bought 2 sets today, straight set with a lot of leafs, and a smaller bent set. Turns out the bent set didn't go small enough for either intake or exhaust specs. Shoulda looked before I bought. Oh well, I'm sure they'll be used someday.
Probably about 1/3 of the valve clearances were out of spec. Cylinder #1 intakes could not fit a .03mm feeler in there (spec is 0.11 mm - 0.13 mm). Most adjustment was required to the intakes all around, seems like the exhausts held there own pretty well.
Also ran a thin bead of hondabond around the gasket ridge (as instructed by the manual) when I put the valve covers back on. Hopefully no leaks this time. ALSO - the screw rubber seals were all upside down. Guess I pooched that one up last time.
And finally... I stripped one of the cylinder cover threads. She must have been tired because I was choked up on a small wratched slowly tightening and as it was cinching in... she let go. I quit immediately and I'm just hoping it holds. :unsure: Wish me luck there.
Decent progress so far. Gotta get that swing arm swapped soon. And get the front end off as the replacement should be here soon. :woohoo:
I picked up 3 parcels today - CBR front end from Seb, F2 cush drive from some ebay guy, and a shop full of parts from Greg, with a beautiful VFR wheel.
I would show you the layout of parts if I had a camera, it's ridiculous. I am very excited to have some excellent condition stock blinkers for the bike, although I'm debating using the flush mounts... I think stocks are more visible. I'm also super stoked about the wheel. The front rotors included are well within spec so hopefully they aren't warped and it will have been the deal of a lifetime from Mr. Greg!
Seb warned me about some work I might need to do on the CBR front end but as it stands now it looks like he was just being extra cautious. I guess we'll see but overall it looks good. Stanchions and seals all look great. Can't wait to get this thing together.
I've decided to hold off on the niceties like fresh paint and powder coating for now. It'll be the Transcontinental Fugly Tour 2010. So long as she rides well and safe, I'll be happy.
Surely to god there must be a better method of mounting carbs to a V4 motor that doesn't require 5 feet of 2x4 to pry the fuckers down and a pair of screw drivers to wedge the rubber out.
:pissed:
The good news is... no busted knuckles, no blood...
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 19 April 2010 - 07:17 PM, said:
Surely to god there must be a better method of mounting carbs to a V4 motor that doesn't require 5 feet of 2x4 to pry the fuckers down and a pair of screw drivers to wedge the rubber out.
:pissed:
The good news is... no busted knuckles, no blood...
:pissed:
Grease the boots with Vaseline, set them on the intakes as close to horizontal as possible, pop the fronts in, then the rears. Easy as pie my friend! :beer:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 19 April 2010 - 08:49 PM, said:
Grease the boots with Vaseline, set them on the intakes as close to horizontal as possible, pop the fronts in, then the rears. Easy as pie my friend! :beer:
The boots were greased (and brand new) and I did the fronts first. However, I had them all fully seated on the intakes before trying to shoehorn the bastard carbs onto the rears.
:angry: :pissed: :angry:
I'd say next time.. but there hella better not be a next time.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 19 April 2010 - 10:26 PM, said:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 19 April 2010 - 08:49 PM, said:
Grease the boots with Vaseline, set them on the intakes as close to horizontal as possible, pop the fronts in, then the rears. Easy as pie my friend! :beer:
The boots were greased (and brand new) and I did the fronts first. However, I had them all fully seated on the intakes before trying to shoehorn the bastard carbs onto the rears.
:angry: :pissed: :angry:
I'd say next time.. but there hella better not be a next time.
hhmm you should have asked me.. i warm up the rear boots in almost boiling water.. slap them on..then quickly press the carbs in place.. i lube the carbs.. not the boots..
oh.. the brake rotors are good and straight!! came off my running bike :fing02:
[image: View Post]gll429, on 20 April 2010 - 12:46 AM, said:
hhmm you should have asked me.. i warm up the rear boots in almost boiling water.. slap them on..then quickly press the carbs in place.. i lube the carbs.. not the boots..
oh.. the brake rotors are good and straight!! came off my running bike :fing02:
Hey Greg! The gloves are a perfect fit too by the way. Awesome to have a dry pair of gloves with me incase I hit rain. Plus they are a bit heavier/thicker than my other ones so good for cooler riding. Thanks!
Taking spacers and speedo drive in to the shop tomorrow to see how the VFR wheel is going to fit the CBR forks. Also gotta figure out how to mount everything to the new triple. I'm taking ideas!
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 20 April 2010 - 06:32 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 20 April 2010 - 06:26 PM, said:
Also gotta figure out how to mount everything to the new triple. I'm taking ideas!
What do you mean by that?
Well I haven't had them side by side to compare but I assumed the CBR F3 upper triple was different that the VFR so the fuse panel and ignition switch would not simple bolt on.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 20 April 2010 - 07:19 PM, said:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 20 April 2010 - 06:32 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 20 April 2010 - 06:26 PM, said:
Also gotta figure out how to mount everything to the new triple. I'm taking ideas!
What do you mean by that?
Well I haven't had them side by side to compare but I assumed the CBR F3 upper triple was different that the VFR so the fuse panel and ignition switch would not simple bolt on.
Ahh, I forgot about the fuse block! The ignition will bolt right on. :fing02: You might be able to stuff the fuse box in between the frame and the airbox, under the tank?
[image: View Post]gll429, on 20 April 2010 - 09:11 PM, said:
cut and extend the wires to the fuse box and tuck it under the "inner cover " next to the gauges..so you can get to it when a one pops.
I like this idea better than hiding it under the tank... just not sure how its going to fit without wire, throttle cable, brake line interference, etc...
Guess I will wait and see when I get spacers made for the front wheel and bolt it up.
Guy in the shop suggested checking it with a theodolite before I take it home and bolt it on. don't know if that will help or not but worth a try.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 20 April 2010 - 10:05 PM, said:
[image: View Post]gll429, on 20 April 2010 - 09:11 PM, said:
cut and extend the wires to the fuse box and tuck it under the "inner cover " next to the gauges..so you can get to it when a one pops.
I like this idea better than hiding it under the tank... just not sure how its going to fit without wire, throttle cable, brake line interference, etc...
Guess I will wait and see when I get spacers made for the front wheel and bolt it up.
Guy in the shop suggested checking it with a theodolite before I take it home and bolt it on. don't know if that will help or not but worth a try.
blah blah blah blah if the forks are off the bike .. bolt them up to the wheel.. i am pretty sure i dropped some spacers in the bag.. along with some blue rear axle adjuster plates.
bolt it up.. put on the brakes. roll the unit around while making VRRROOOM VRROOOOOMM VROOM noises :fing02:
[image: View Post]gll429, on 20 April 2010 - 10:31 PM, said:
blah blah blah blah if the forks are off the bike .. bolt them up to the wheel.. i am pretty sure i dropped some spacers in the bag.. along with some blue rear axle adjuster plates.
bolt it up.. put on the brakes. roll the unit around while making VRRROOOM VRROOOOOMM VROOM noises :fing02:
Yup you did, but I just got my speedo drive off my bike tonight which is also a spacer. The rest of the front end is at the shop at school. Might as well test fit there so if I need a spacer or two adjusted, we have the goods there to do it.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 20 April 2010 - 11:18 PM, said:
[image: View Post]gll429, on 20 April 2010 - 10:31 PM, said:
blah blah blah blah if the forks are off the bike .. bolt them up to the wheel.. i am pretty sure i dropped some spacers in the bag.. along with some blue rear axle adjuster plates.
bolt it up.. put on the brakes. roll the unit around while making VRRROOOM VRROOOOOMM VROOM noises :fing02:
Yup you did, but I just got my speedo drive off my bike tonight which is also a spacer. The rest of the front end is at the shop at school. Might as well test fit there so if I need a spacer or two adjusted, we have the goods there to do it.
But thanks for your motivation! ;-)
Please get that front end aligned before you make any spacers, or you're going to double your work. Using a transit to check the triple may work, have you had your machinist friends do any measuring yet?
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 22 April 2010 - 10:35 AM, said:
Please get that front end aligned before you make any spacers, or you're going to double your work. Using a transit to check the triple may work, have you had your machinist friends do any measuring yet?
Ok so - I'm feeling really dense on this one. Seb, you've repeated yourself on this to me before but obviously it hasn't gotten through to me yet.
You are suggesting the stem is off square to the bottom triple JUST ENOUGH that everything bolts up cleanly, top triple mounts perfectly, forks slide up through cleanly... but the whole thing angles the wheel about 10-15 degrees at the ground?
...
Now, a few other things that have made themselves known to me:
1. the 3rd gen VFR uses a countershaft sprocket speedometer drive. Can this be fit to the '86? The '86 axle gear drive clearly does not fit the wheel.
2. the left caliper on the '86 has a wider mounting bracket than the right side, due to the anti-dive I suppose. I think the calipers are the same other wise. Do you know if the mounting bracket on the right will work with the left as well? or will I need F3 CBR calipers and MC as well?
3. The spacers that came with the VFR wheel from Greg seem to fit the fork width perfectly. I haven't tested alignment with the calipers mounted due to the bracket issue above.
Again and again, thanks for everyone's input and assistance and info. If anyone was near by you'd have a case of beer in your hands. As it is, I should be passing through Maine, NH, VT and upstate NY before cutting in to Cornwall ON. If anyone is on the route, I'm buying a round or 3.
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 22 April 2010 - 10:35 AM, said:
Please get that front end aligned before you make any spacers, or you're going to double your work. Using a transit to check the triple may work, have you had your machinist friends do any measuring yet?
I don't see this being off at all. I think its good to go until I get it back together and get a proper alignment done. No spacing required, the ones with the wheel fit the forks perfectly. Wheel bearing feels great, wheel spins silently. Not sure what else to check...?
remove the speedo unit from the housing.. make a cardboard template that fits in the spoeedo windo.. get nake pic of a chick with "censor" block over her.. put over card board.. cut out sensor block.. add lightr behind it.. install a bicycle computertand viola!! digital read out with a nice view! AND..it can be calibrated to any wheel size!!
i have the stock vfr calips from a 93.. and some 6 pistons from a kawi that MAY line up.. i will check asap.. most likly tomorrow.
[image: View Post]gll429, on 22 April 2010 - 05:14 PM, said:
remove the speedo unit from the housing.. make a cardboard template that fits in the spoeedo windo.. get nake pic of a chick with "censor" block over her.. put over card board.. cut out sensor block.. add lightr behind it.. install a bicycle computertand viola!! digital read out with a nice view! AND..it can be calibrated to any wheel size!!
I think I might do the family-friendly version of this mod and just go with a cat-eye or something similar. It will suck to lose the odometer reading though. If the battery dies on a cat-eye, your data goes with it as far as I know. Something to look into anyway.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 22 April 2010 - 06:43 PM, said:
I think I might do the family-friendly version of this mod and just go with a cat-eye or something similar. It will suck to lose the odometer reading though. If the battery dies on a cat-eye, your data goes with it as far as I know. Something to look into anyway.
I've had a Velo 2 on my Trek Mountaintrack XL for about 10 years now... original battery! :fing02: Not sure what to tell ya about the front end, except that I have a mockup wheel that I need to examine! :unsure:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 23 April 2010 - 05:14 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 22 April 2010 - 06:43 PM, said:
I think I might do the family-friendly version of this mod and just go with a cat-eye or something similar. It will suck to lose the odometer reading though. If the battery dies on a cat-eye, your data goes with it as far as I know. Something to look into anyway.
I've had a Velo 2 on my Trek Mountaintrack XL for about 10 years now... original battery! :fing02: Not sure what to tell ya about the front end, except that I have a mockup wheel that I need to examine! :unsure:
Let me know how you make out with that wheel!
My rear came in the other day. Just bought a set of Pilot Power 2CT's. Price was as good as I can get locally, and with shipping, duty, brokerage and tax added to any online deals, don't think they would have come to me any cheaper. Man I have a lot left to do on this bike. :ohmy:
Have rubber mounted. Front wheel mounted. Right caliper fits, left doesn't and is not compatible. Ordered a pair of calipers and master cylinder off ebay today from an F3 CBR. $75 shipped and guaranteed to be working. Here's hoping...
I gutted the speedometer and am going to find some type of bike computer with a readable display in the dark. Still have the lights in the Speedometer so maybe I can use those with a reflector above them somehow.
Got nothing else done lately. Word from Mr. Daugherty is that he is very busy (no surprise there) and this is going to take longer than I had hoped so the rear shock will not be ready for my first trip. Not a big loss, but a little disappointing. Probably should have got on that a lot earlier...
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 18 May 2010 - 12:07 PM, said:
Have rubber mounted. Front wheel mounted. Right caliper fits, left doesn't and is not compatible. Ordered a pair of calipers and master cylinder off ebay today from an F3 CBR. $75 shipped and guaranteed to be working. Here's hoping...
I gutted the speedometer and am going to find some type of bike computer with a readable display in the dark. Still have the lights in the Speedometer so maybe I can use those with a reflector above them somehow.
Got nothing else done lately. Word from Mr. Daugherty is that he is very busy (no surprise there) and this is going to take longer than I had hoped so the rear shock will not be ready for my first trip. Not a big loss, but a little disappointing. Probably should have got on that a lot earlier...
Late getting back to this. The Veypor looks like a nice functioning unit but too rich for this project. I'm going into triage here to get this thing back together on minimal funds. It ran way over budget and its a long way from being rideable at the moment.
I need a checklist of shit that needs to get done to get this back together:
bar end weights - I got 5th gen bars and the 2nd gen weights are threaded... not working here. I need some 5th gen weights or something else that will work. *I guess I also need bar inserts as all the end weights I see screw into an "insert". I just have the hollow clip-ons.*
cateye - cheap speedometer to fit into the old gauge pod
small replacement fuse panel - big old one doesn't fit and I can't see how to modify it to fit. If I have to extend wiring to relocate it, might as well downsize the bugger too
get photos of how all the cables are routed in and around the forks to finish putting the front end together
purchase a 14mm hex head socket to remove swing arm
wait for Jamie to get my shock shipped out
purchase or have spacers made to fit F2 wheel
get brake caliper arm cut and welded shorter
order chain and sprockets
order new brake pads for the F3 front calipers
source some inner fairing panel brackets
Oh yeah... there is a lot to do. Feeling kinda overwhelmed right now.
Did you ever think of using CBR F2 rear caliper and caliper bracket? you wont have to worry about cutting and rewelding or modifying torque arm..you will just need spacers from jamie d. You just tap and drill caliper bracket, the spacers i used was 14 mm,(wheel) 16 mm,(caliper bracket) and 14mm on the axle and then another 14 mm spacer between torque arm and F2 caliper.
[image: View Post]fatso127, on 01 June 2010 - 05:20 PM, said:
Did you ever think of using CBR F2 rear caliper and caliper bracket? you wont have to worry about cutting and rewelding or modifying torque arm..you will just need spacers from jamie d. You just tap and drill caliper bracket, the spacers i used was 14 mm,(wheel) 16 mm,(caliper bracket) and 14mm on the axle and then another 14 mm spacer between torque arm and F2 caliper.
I can get the machining and welding work done for free. I'd have to buy used F2 parts and potentially rebuild them. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Lots of cosmetics and aesthetics left, but mechanicals are coming right along. Only waiting to get the caliper bracket back from the welder and my front fender to come in.
Still have to figure out how most of it goes back together, but I have most of the front together and the subframe is back on. Rear fender is in place but I have to figure out how everything fits nicely back together.
Also have to figure out how to mount the twin clicker's reservoir on the subframe so it will have clearance from the chain and tire.
Couple "coming along" pics anyway... Picks are from a blackberry so worse than usual. :)
I'm wondering if this is enough clearance on the torque arm or if a section should be ground out a bit? [image: Posted Image]
A little something something from Jamie. Dude is a busy man but if you are patient, he delivers! I also bought spacers from him and of course they are a perfect fit. [image: Posted Image]
My first youtube video. Taken with a blackberry, so not super high quality.
I overfilled the oil. Please don't ask... but I think that's the white smoke puffs coming out at the end of the video. Still more to do but it has 2 wheels, working brakes and suspension, and it runs.
[image: View Post]slowbird, on 11 August 2010 - 10:28 AM, said:
Wow...good work.
I hope to do this someday to my '86 VFR
Thanks for the kind words.
Updates:
Short run around the block results:
- motor works good when the fuel pump stays plugged in
- front brakes are a massive improvement, rear needs some bleeding I think
- steering felt quick but bearings were fairly tight. Also making a creaking sound. Problem:
I had all balls rollers fitted to my older CBR Bearing race. I popped out the steering stem and took some diameter measurements at the top and bottom of the taper of the old cbr rollers and the all balls. Quite different. I ordered a whole new set of tapered rollers from Charlie at CBR Bearing.
I cannot say enough about this guy or the company. They sell japanese bearings, and Charlie is awesome. Quick replies by email, he answers the phone, order ships same day. And he is very familiar with the kit for our old V4's. Just a pleasure to deal with. www.cbrbearing.com (no affiliation, just satisfied and posting an alternative to All Balls.
Front fender came in from Moto-777 on ebay. It's from Hong Kong but looks very nice. ABS. The ebay company was awesome to deal with, very professional and prompt to deal with and shipped out very quickly. Better than a lot of the state side ebayers. Haven't gotten to fit it yet since the front end is off again.
New bearings are on. Discovered a great way (I think) of getting the lower steering stem bearing on. The old one was carefully cut off with a dremel and the split with a screw driver. Not a mark on the stem :)
The new bearing was held to a propane torch for a minute or so and it dropped right to the bottom of the stem. After it cooled I gave the inner race a few taps with a punch but it was fully seated.
It IS harder to pack with grease on the stem, but I think I packed it pretty well. No more funny sounds from the fron end.
While I was waiting for bearings I drilled and tapped the steering stops on the frame. Just put in some screws I had laying around and it looks like a perfect setting. Little more testing when its all together and then I'll just put some thread-lok on them.
The front fender from moto-777 looks like a great fit too. There is not a lot of tire clearance but it isn't screwed on yet so we'll see. The pre-drilled holes are placed perfectly but will need to be enlarged for the threaded inserts from the '86 fender.
Truth be told I never know what to photograph. Plus my squalor working conditions, tools all over the place... Embarrassing.
I'll show pics of the chinese abs fender when it gets properly mounted.
BTW - where can I buy a fuse block for low-profile mini blade fuses? Best I've found were single "tuning fork" style holders that could be clipped together on the sides. Forget the URL now... Maybe littelfuse.com. Do you know of anything? An eight-fuse block be ideal.
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 03 September 2010 - 06:24 AM, said:
BTW - where can I buy a fuse block for low-profile mini blade fuses? Best I've found were single "tuning fork" style holders that could be clipped together on the sides. Forget the URL now... Maybe littelfuse.com. Do you know of anything? An eight-fuse block be ideal.
I snatched mine from spare OEM harnesses bought on ebay for a few bucks each.
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 03 September 2010 - 06:39 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Blakeo, on 03 September 2010 - 06:24 AM, said:
BTW - where can I buy a fuse block for low-profile mini blade fuses? Best I've found were single "tuning fork" style holders that could be clipped together on the sides. Forget the URL now... Maybe littelfuse.com. Do you know of anything? An eight-fuse block be ideal.
I snatched mine from spare OEM harnesses bought on ebay for a few bucks each.
That's going on next winter's project list, along with body work and powder coating. Next problem:
My front fender still doesn't fit. It fits perfectly with the fork mounting points, however it touches the tire. I'm using a 120-70-17 front. Would a 120-60-17 give me very much clearance? I haven't ridden the tire and might be able to swap it. Probably not but its a possibility. I'm out of ideas for the front fender except to try to mount it higher with new holes, but the front mounting tabs make this difficult.
Most of the plastic back on. The inner panels do not fit yet around the cable/wiring hodgepodge that needs to be cleaned up. However the bars at least, turn lock to lock without mashing wires or cables. Plastics are fairly trashed. Thinking money is better spent on some replacements from VFR Chuck or some such instead of trying to unrepair the mess of body fill and fibreglass/resin crap that is on there now and then refixing stuff. Oh and still no fender that fits. :pissed:
Anyway... pics of the VFR brought back to life with modern landing gear.
It's not even a fair comparison since before the front forks needed to be rebuilt and there was a slight knock. Even with new steering bearings the front end was more than a little loose.
But now...
NOW...
Frig I can't stop smiling. It was the first ride since this whole thing began so the first ride since last fall. I told myself I'd go easy since so much was new and untested. I tried to go easy. I did go easy the first few minutes. Then a little harder. Then I was in over my head quickly and ... wow. I know this might never compare to the girlfriends 2k5 600RR, but do those 2CT's make a wild difference. I'm going to assume some of the handling improvement is the new forks and rear fox shock... but god damn those tires inspire some confidence.
I put on 160kms of back roads. Winding, hilly roads. Roads I'd never been on and had no business testing out this bike on.
I'm still smiling.
Stopped at a friend's place out in the middle of BF nowhere to check things out. The rear caliper stay was held in place by brake line only. Not good. It had rubbed lightly on the tire for who knows how long. Don't know what happened to the bolts holding it on because they were there when I left home. Best bet is that I had test fit it all together with the cut-n-weld caliper mount and forgot to torque it all down after.
Cable-tied it on to the outside of the mounts so it wouldn't rub any more and went on my way, chanting my new mantra "no rear brake... no rear brake..."
Got home a half hour later and checked everything over. Lost the sliding pin on the rear caliper and the lower (and final) bolt was loose. Jesus H Christ I'm dumb and lucky.
I also lost a lower fairing screw again. Time for some thread lock on those.
The final word for today is that the bike is nothing like the bike I rode last year. Nothing. Plastics still suck the big one and I'm strongly considering a full swap if I can find better ones. I might spend the winter sanding and epoxying to see what I end up with. There are cracks all over the place and a couple lower side brackets (fairing stays) missing too. Friggin money pit. :beatdeadhorse:
Why do I love this bike so much?
I know one thing... all the bastards out there who had an '86, sold it, and keep telling everyone how they always regretted it... it's YOUR FAULT!
:fing02:
End of thread · 64 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2424/3875558487_9302948604.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4469266373_2443889c2d_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4055/4470044798_47d9baf272_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4469266675_fffb200d2d_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4470046532_bc7fe61805_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/4469268447_44517c91aa_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4486613471_bbf0f0c991_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4487262976_4aa53350c5_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4486613099_18e4265c58_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2739/4486612945_cf20342982_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2698/4491206374_2d9f109ceb_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4490565627_57903407da_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4491205366_1e04bb5e22_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4491205654_71dfc293f6_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4495199001_ec3de4ac83_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://www.honda-decals.com/productgraphics/3colhwingcomplex.gif){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4497774799_cef8fc06b5_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4498411958_d5020d0169_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4497775005_55a729e62b_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4539390440_347c6c79ee_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4539389702_33d1e898fd_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4538758915_9180048307_o.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4539393706_9913a19fef_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4542858183_1f5a374db4_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4543794909_b7ceb183cd_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4544427474_53d6be294a_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4544428150_4c2521ec9d_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4802408747_45f6d04ce5_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4803038972_1f7a464800_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4802407871_e671a85836_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4803038602_5b4aa6d484_z.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4960096429_04e05f7c73_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4960688362_8f4d81c8ee_b.jpg){kind=link}
![[image: Posted Image]](http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/4960090821_90044148cd_b.jpg){kind=link}