First Time Wheel Removal

I've got new tires coming for the bike tomorrow, so I want to get the wheels off tonight to be ready for their arrival. I've searched but can't find answers to my questions..Just a couple questions...

How do you guys support your bike with both wheels off? I don't want to surprise myself with a tip-over because I'm stupid.

Rear wheel off first?

Service manual says to remove the front fender---is this necessary on a 6th gen, and do I have to remove both calipers or just the right side?

Service manual also says to replace the caliper bolts, again is this necessary?

Any other tips or tricks you can offer to make this a smooth operation, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

my bike has got alot of road wear and tear on her, so i just place my plastic tool box under the front corner of the fairing to get the front wheel off. loosen all the hardware first: you don't want to be torquing on anything when its balanced on the centerstand/toolbox.

i have always taken the front wheel off first... the added weight of the rear wheel makes me feel more secure while removing the front wheel(it is easier to lift up a bit to get the front tire under the fender when removing it).

so no, you do not need to remove the fender, but you need to remove both calipers. four bolts does all four... easy.

just make sure you don't tip it to far back because there is no rear wheel stopping it from flipping back!

i guess if you are more civilized, you could pull the lower fairings and block up the front with a couple 2x4's or similar.

as for hardware... never changed mine.

I use Pitbull front and rear stand to lift the bike but you can put a jack under the headers to remove the front wheel.

Only removal of right brake caliper is required but you may scratch the rim if you dont remove both..

I have reused the caliper bolts a dozen times already.

If you get the front of the bike high enough you dont need to remove the front fender..

-Loosen rear lug nuts while bike is on sidestand

-put bike on centerstand

-use bunjies or rope to secure centerstand to keep it from folding (optional, but extra insurance)

-put something heavy on the back of the bike to lift up the front wheel or use a pit stand up front. Rear wheel still in place to keep everything from moving too much.

-Remove front calipers, then front wheel.

-place forks on a crate/large piece of wood/whatever as you remove weight from back.

-remove rear wheel.

Reverse for install.

[image: DSC03041.jpg]

creggur

I've got new tires coming for the bike tomorrow, so I want to get the wheels off tonight to be ready for their arrival. I've searched but can't find answers to my questions..Just a couple questions...

How do you guys support your bike with both wheels off? I don't want to surprise myself with a tip-over because I'm stupid.

Center stand + jack under headers, near front

Rear wheel off first?

Yes

Service manual says to remove the front fender---is this necessary on a 6th gen, and do I have to remove both calipers or just the right side?

No, you raise the jack under the header until you have room to take the wheel out. You need to remove one caliper in any case.

Service manual also says to replace the caliper bolts, again is this necessary?

No!

Any other tips or tricks you can offer to make this a smooth operation, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

Tool list: 5mm allen wrench(L-shaped), 12mm socket, 10mm socket, 19mm or 3/4" socket, ratchet, torque wrench capable of 10-90lb-ft, waterproof grease, rag. If you want to remove the front rotors from the wheel you'll also need a 6mm allen wrench or socket.

edit:

Removing the front fender allows you to spin the fork with the remaining caliper, to move the caliper away from the wheel. Makes it easier, but not necessary. IMO, the paint on the wheel is tougher than the paint on the fender, which is very easily scratched during removal/install.

My method...

Put the bike on the centerstand. Hold the rear wheel in place with the rear brake pedal while loosening the wheel nuts, and remove the rear wheel. Use a front stand to raise the front wheel off the ground (no, the bike won't tip over backwards), and remove it per the manual. I do take off the front fender and the right caliper.

sckego

My method...

Put the bike on the centerstand. Hold the rear wheel in place with the rear brake pedal while loosening the wheel nuts, and remove the rear wheel. Use a front stand to raise the front wheel off the ground (no, the bike won't tip over backwards), and remove it per the manual. I do take off the front fender and the right caliper.

I always break the bolts loose on the side stand and torque to spec on the side stand with the bike in gear as far forward or back so it doesn't roll on me. Once the bolts are loosen, up on the center stand and take the wheel off.

Also, on the front if you are lucky enough to have rafer a few straps can take the place of a jack. Others have even done the reverse and drive onto a board with hooks so you pull down on the rear to lift the front with straps.

I reuse the bolts but always have a spare set on hand in case I don't like the looks of the ones I pull out.

I just use a normal car jack with a bit of wood to spread the weight around the headers:

[image: hoverbike.jpg]

You only need about 4-5lbs of "lift" to balance it. 99% of the weight is on the C-stand.

Here is my wheel removal method from memory:

Unless you have an air or electric impact wrench (or a buddy to hold the brake pedal down while you stand on the lug nut wrench) it's a good idea to loosen (just loosen -not remove) the 4 lugnuts with the bike on the side-stand before putting it up on the C-stand and the jack.

To remove the rear wheel you'll have to loosen the muffler at the double-bolt (loosen them both) coupling right behind the centerstand and under the bike and remove the hanger bolt that goes to the passenger peg. It should just swing away (turning the muffler counter-clockwise (yes, this is counter-intuitive but it goes down and then away from the the wheel.

Then all you need to do is remove the 4 lug nuts and the rear wheel comes right off like a car wheel. Honda Civic? Probably uses the same hub...

Reverse is exactly opposite. While you have the back off take look at how much pads you have left on the rear brake. It's hard to see it without a good mechanic's mirror so it's a good time to check.

The front is a bit trickier.

Remove the axle nut on the right side and then loosen the pinch bolts holding the axle. Put something like a screwdriver through the little hole and twist a bit. The axle should spin and come out slightly.

Before you pull it all the way out it is time to remove the Right-side caliper. It's easier to remove the Right side as the Left side has that stupid linked brakes BS on it but you can remove either one. If you remove the linked brakes bracket be careful not to lose the bushing inside.

The Caliper comes off by removing the two long bolts (12mm head if I remember right) that go through it to the fender. Be VERY careful NOT to pull the brake lever (or the brake pedal either for that matter as the stupid things are linked in the gen5 on) while the caliper is off or you'll push the caliper piston right OUT and leak oil all over hell.

Pull the rest of the axle out paying careful attention to which side is left and right and which spacer goes where.

Installation is slightly different on the Front Wheel than just reverse. After making sure you have the wheel on the right way and the right spacers on the right side slide the axle in. Tighten the axle end bolt. Install the caliper (the factory says you are supposed to replace these bolts every time you take them out. Honda wants something like $20 each for them. If you think that is as BS as me then don't pay $40 to make a $tealer rich just to take off your own damn wheel -give them a gander. If the threads are not deformed and they don't look warped then don't worry about it)

After you have the wheel and brakes back together then push the bike off the centerstand (assuming you have the rear wheel done, naturally) and pump the front suspension with your front brake pulled. This helps center and align the lower fork tubes. Put the bike back on the centerstand. Get on your knees and eyeball the rotors to check that they are centered going through the rotor hanger brackets and calipers and not rubbing. If they are off it is easy to see with the naked eye. If they are OK then tighten up your pinch bolts and torque everything to factory specs with your torque wrench.

All done.

For extra support I have a large eye hook hanging from the top of my garage door frame that I use with tie down straps that run to the front and back of the bike. Now if I can just figure out a way to keep from tipping my beers over when working on the bike :laughing6-hehe:

Rollin

Everybody has their own way for sure but here is mine.

1. Put bike on centerstand

2. Mash on brake pedal with right foot. Use a 19mm socket and breakover bar to loosen lug nuts with your left arm. Right hand on seat to keep your balance.

4. Pull rear wheel off

5. Loosen front axle bolt, pinch bolts and caliper bolts.

6. Place a floor jack and 1x4 block under headers and raise it until the front wheel is off the ground about two inches.

(I do the rest of this sitting on the ground in front of the tire)

7. Remove all four caliper bolts and carefully pull calipers out to the side of the tire. Don't let them hang. Remount them to keep tension off the hoses.

8. Continue loosening the axle bolt while simultaneously pushing on it so you slide the axle over. This will allow you to grab the other end.

9. Now with your left hand holding the wheel, pull the axle out with your right hand.

10. You may have to angle the wheel as its coming out to clear the fender.

11. Make sure you keep track of the spacers and note which side is shorter/longer.

12. Replace in reverse order and be sure to torque everything.

If I was only removing the front wheel then I'd just pull the right caliper. Never have pulled the fender off but a friend of mine always said it's a good excuse to clean it. fing02.gif

Note the 6th gen VFR wheel spacers...

Long spacer on throttle side, Short spacer on Clutch lever side..

dutchinterceptor

Everybody has their own way for sure but here is mine.

7. Remove all four caliper bolts and carefully pull calipers out to the side of the tire. Don't let them hang. Remount them to keep tension off the hoses.

I was taught this too. I think back in the 1950's this might have been a lot more important than it is today. I've been disregarding it for decades. Considering the near constant abuse modern brake hoses must endure on a daily basis on a long-travel motorcycle, letting the modern and light calipers hang from them for a few minutes or even hours isn't going to hurt them. And if it did, I'd be changing hoses every couple of years.

But I don't think it can hurt wiring them up if it makes people feel better. I feel about the same way about this as I do about replacing the caliper bolts.

Silly, if you ask me. :laughing6-hehe:

Thanks everyone for the input - I sure as hell didn't want to pay the dealership $95 per axle to mount and balance if I brought the bike in. I was like: "Seriously, it's a VFR - there is no rear axle!" but that's what they charge.

Cycle gear - $30 per wheel carrying them in...much better. :laughing6-hehe:

So, $215 for my new Angel STs and $60 to mount and balance isn't too bad..

Thanks for the help!!!

I've done a couple of things to make working on the front wheel easier. It depends on which bike and if there is a center stand or not. With the VFR, I put it on the center stand and place a precut (cut a little long) 2x4 from the seat to the ceiling joists in my garage..... I put a small piece of plywood on the seat (with a scrap of carpet under it)and wedge the 2x into place to put pressure on the rear......the front end stays up nicely. If it's a bike without a center stand, I wrap some soft straps around the bars and clip onto them with the hook of a comealong. The other end of the comealong is hooked over a 24" long, 3/4"d steel bar that I slipped through7/8" holes in drilled through a couple of ceiling joists (keep the holes at least 2" above the bottom of the joist so you don't compromise it's load bearing ability). Crank away on the winch and it's effortless. Place a wood block or two and a scissor jack as needed and it will never fall. Minimal time to set these up the for future use and very low cost. A boss I had when I was younger would always say "if you want to find the easiest way to do something, ask the laziest guy" :laugh:

Thanks again for all the tips. I ended up going with the jack under the headers technique (bike looked so vulnerable just floating there) and only removed the right caliper.

I'm assuming all went well as the brakes worked and the wheel didn't come off during a 35 mile ride after the change :cheerleader:

The new tires are simply awesome - Pirelli Angel STs - much, much better than the stocker Dunlops - lighting-fast turn in, very stable in the straights and through curves (well, what we call curves down here) and nice feedback. We'll see how they fare as they wear, but very happy thus far! :woohoo:

Question, can the front wheel be put on in either direction? The wheel appears to be symmetric but I would like some confirmation.

The spokes are not squarely set on the hub, so it might look a little funny. There are directional arrows on the wheel to help with the intended rotation and the rotors have intended direction as well I believe. But beyond that, it can be mounted in the opposite rotational direction.

Thanks I will look for the directional arrows on the wheel and make sure the new tires are mounted correctly.

Okay, first off, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Lots of good info on removing the wheels.

Even though I've ridden motorcycles for 30 years, I've never removed the wheels myself, guess I've always taken the bike somewhere to have new tires put on or fork seals replaced.

A few things I learned:

1) Again, VFRD is a great forum with lots of good info.

2) Used the floor jack/block of wood method for lifting the front end, worked great. Love owning a bike with a center stand.

3) Back wheel is stupid easy, no brake disc or chain to deal with like on most sport bikes. Why does the Honda dealer charge $95/wheel to do this?

4) Followed the directions for removing the front wheel, I ended up unbolting, but not removing the front fender. This allowed me to pull the front wheel a little easier without needing to lift the front end higher and applying a lot of pressure with the jack to the header pipes. I just didn't feel comfortable jacking on the pipes with the pressure needed to remove the wheel without messing with the front fender.

5) While I had the wheels off, I put the axle back through the forks and used a jack stand under the axle to help support the front end while I took the wheels into the shop for the new tires. This was just in case the jack slipped and let the front tilt forward. Although I don't think the jack really did much, just lifted the front end a bit (about 1-2 inches) in order for me to remove and re-install the wheel.

6) I did remove the brake rotors prior to taking the wheels to the tire shop. One less thing for someone else to mess up.

7) After re-installing the brake rotors I wiped them down with some rubbing alcohol to remove any oily finger prints I may have inadvertently put on the rotors.

8) I hand started and hand tightened all the bolts prior to torquing them to the correct value. Just taking my time and making sure nothing is cross-threaded.

9) I probably spent 40 min removing the wheels and and about the same time putting them back on. Time flies when you're having fun but then again this was my first time and I wanted to be careful and not damage anything.

10) Just like when I do work on my car, it's the satisfaction of doing it yourself and knowing everything is done correctly with no bad surprises.