After a fair amount of testing, cursing and learning, it appears I have a faulty stator in my 94 750.
Followed the testing at Electrex World and got very, very low readings when doing the Generator Leakage Current test eg 2-6.
Noticed the R/R has been replaced by part SH701-12 which is a replacement for the 4th gens and is finned.
Could the original R/R that went bad have damaged the stator which now needs replacing?
Is there something else that would damage the stator.
I've had similar problems mate. These things just seem to burn out after a while, and if they're not manufactured perfectly, they burn out even earlier.
To elaborate further on what has already been said, time and heat. The wire that constitutes the windings is insulated with a thin coating of varnish, not plastic or rubber. Over time and with heat the varnish breaks down and shortly thereafter the wires begin to short circuit.
AND if the previously failed RR had been shunting too much to ground whilst it was failing it may have caused more heat in those varnished wires making up the stator. (There are too many possibilities of sequences of RR failing to consider all of them)
Check all the earths are good and that the main fuse connections are good and clean as any voltage drops here will overload the electrical system over time.
Get a VfrNess from Tightwad which will clean up the Honda poor design around the battery connections and main fuse.
AND if the previously failed RR had been shunting too much to ground whilst it was failing it may have caused more heat in those varnished wires making up the stator. (There are too many possibilities of sequences of RR failing to consider all of them)
Check all the earths are good and that the main fuse connections are good and clean as any voltage drops here will overload the electrical system over time.
Get a VfrNess from Tightwad which will clean up the Honda poor design around the battery connections and main fuse.
Yep I hear you loud and clear and have checked all mentioned.
The VFRness looks like a goer too, may be I can get both from Tightwad? at the same time.
Does look good, but I rarely believe my eyes. They can be tricked pretty easily. Trust the meter. Good luck.
+1... you can only really be sure based on multimeter testing... Volts AC pero 1000 RPM... resistence and continuity... there should be a thread around here explaining how to test it... you could have saved yourself the hassle of uninstalling it if it checked out ok...
Shoddy, low quality construction. That results in premature failures in the stator assembly. The motorcycle maker's engineers very well know what kind of harsh environments they are dealing with in the engine where the stator is located. So we should expect them to specify the correct quality and materials for the stator assemblies. It could very well be that Honda bean counters then cheapen up the design or manufacturing (mostly contractors outside of Honda, I suspect) to bolster profit margins on the bike.
Shoddy, low quality construction. That results in premature failures in the stator assembly. The motorcycle maker's engineers very well know what kind of harsh environments they are dealing with in the engine where the stator is located. So we should expect them to specify the correct quality and materials for the stator assemblies. It could very well be that Honda bean counters then cheapen up the design or manufacturing (mostly contractors outside of Honda, I suspect) to bolster profit margins on the bike.
Beck
95 VFR
Just had a thought.
When I purchased the bike I noticed a slight leak from each engine side case, so drained the oil and removed both engine cases.
Now I recall that I probably should have removed the battery negative according to the manual(which I didn't have at the time)
Have I done damage to my electrical system by removing the stator and cover when I did this with the battery connected?
Doh!!!!!!!!!!!
End of thread · 11 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 23 Sep 2017