Cam Chain tensioner removal/service on V45 motors

HS's thread about the new style tensioner used in the 2010 VFR prompted me to go looking for a thread I had seen on the V4BBS - guys found a way to modify the old CCT's in the V45/V65 Magna/Sabre/Interceptor motors.

This was necessary for 2 reasons:
1 - new tensioners are about $150 from Honda
2 - they are discontinued...

So, I'm going to quote their postings here for our group's reference. Please consider this a guideline ONLY, as it is secondhand info!

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To remove the tensioners:

Remove seat, side covers and raise gas tank (Magna)
Drain and remove radiator
Remove coils and plastic heat shield
Remove valve covers
Remove alternator cover
Loosen all valve adjuster screws and back them out of the way
Remove 8 head bolts per head, 4 10mm and 4 8m
Remove cam shaft hold down brackets and pull the dowel pins ohe ut of the heads
Remove cams shafts, don't need to unbolt the sprockets from them
Unbolt the tensioners, don't drop the bolts
Unpin the chain guide from the tensioner

Reverse for installation. Cams must be timed with engine at 1-3 TDC. Valves must be reset to .005 inches. Don't forget to pull the locking pin out of the tensioner AFTER the cams are timed and bolted into place.

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For camchains...:

For the v45 hyvochain 148 links (VF750F, VF750C and VF750S)

DID SCA 0412 DHA-148


These are chains with a masterlink (rivet type)

So case splitting is not needed...


Have to go through the catalog to find some more info on the V65 chain...

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Over time and mileage the tensioners on the Honda V65 and V45 engine may become less effective on controlling the play in the cam chains. This is caused by the slow stretching of the cam chain, and wear on the locking mechanism. The chain may also begin to rub on the inner tensioner arm where it attaches to the chain guide. The effect of this is a rattling sound in the engine. Though it may sound like miss-adjusted valves, the noise can never be adjusted out. The second effect is the toothed side of the chain rubbing on the tensioner inner arm causes a whining sound when the engine is reved. Note: If there are signs of cam sprocket or chain wear the chain should probably be replaced.

The following modification will alleviate these problems.

Tools required:
Grinder, either bench, side, air or Dremmel
Pin punch and hammer
Drill and 13/64 and 15/64 drill bits
Welder, either arc or gas
Files, flat and round
Needle nose pliers
Vise recommended

With the tensioner removed from the engine (see shop manual for procedure):
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Remove the locking pin and release the spring tension. Remove the pivot pin by removing the hairpin and washer. Pull the inner arm out of the bracket and remove the lock rod from the lock bracket. Remove the spring and its sleeve from both pins. Remove the sleeve from the spring.

Grind the rounded end off the spring pin in the arm and punch out the spring pin.

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Draw a line from the lock rod pin through the spring pin hole and 0.5 inch past for the V65 and V45. This will be the new location of the spring pin.

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Use the 0.203 drill bit to drill a hole at the new location through both sides of the arm.

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Use the 0.234 drill bit to drill out the hole on one side of the arm only.

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Install the old pin in the new hole. Tack weld the small end of the pin to the inner arm. Grind down the weld to less than 1/16 inch. Note: If you are not a welder find one or go to a welding shop. Do not blow out the fairly thin arm material.

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Use the files to remove metal from the inner arm web at the end that connects to the chain slide. Remove about 1/8 inch.

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Grind off the pinched ends of the spring sleeve.

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Insert the spring into the sleeve. Attach one end of the spring to the pin in the latch bracket. Attach the other end of the spring to the relocated pin in the inner arm.

Re-install the inner arm into the bracket with the pin, washer and hair pin. Extend the inner arm and insert the lock shaft into the lock bracket. Pin the arm in the open position. Make sure the inner arm moves freely in the bracket and lock against the spring pull.

Modification complete.

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Modification cost: Less than $10
New tensioners cost: $150
Getting rid of the top end rattle: Priceless

Thanks to Big A for the donor used tensioner and to musclecar24seven, David1100 and The Dutchy for reviewing the write up.