Can everyone please share tips or advise regarding the oil change process on an 02 VTEC? Is it necessary to remove both side panels? Can only the left side be loosened? There is a first time for everything, and I'd appreciate your help.
Regards,
Luckyman??? *************************************added by HS
Remove the Panel on the left Side, Take off the left side panel and the inner panel. [image: user posted image] [image: user posted image]
The Fairing Bolts should only be tightened to 1.1 ft/lb when reinstalling the panels, thats hand-tight.
For Tools your going to need about 4 quarts of New Oil. Honda recommends 10W40 with no Graphite or Molybdenum additives for good clutch operation, no Caster Based, non detergent, or vegetable based Oils.
You will need a filter wrench, oil pan, funnel, 14mm socket, replacement washer for the oil pan bolt (you can get by without it if its not damaged), new filter, and a torque wrench. I use vinyl Gloves to keep the grease out of my fingernails.
[image: user posted image] Tools
[image: user posted image] Loosen the drain bolt and let it go, you should warm up the engine for five minutes to help the oil flow out, watch out you don't burn yourself.
[image: user posted image] Hot Oil Watch for splashing, keep kids/animals away from your work area.
[image: user posted image] Before removing the old filter cover the headers with a rag to keep oil off them
[image: user posted image] If your using a socket type wrench my will need an extenstion.
[image: user posted image] oil always leaks out of the old filter.
[image: user posted image] moisen the new filter seal with oil.
[image: user posted image] Screw the new filter on, careful not the cross thread, and torque to (7ft/lbs for 98-01, or 22ft/lbs for VTEC).
[image: user posted image] Tread the drain bolt back on, new washer if you have one, and torque to 22 ft/lbs, again don't cross thread the bolt.
Screw off the filler cap and insert your funnel, put in 3 quarts and check the level in the window, fill it to the top line. Then put the cap back on (Your not done yet) start the motor and let it run for a little while, enough time to let the oil pump fill the new filter and circulate the oil all over the engine. Then turn it off and wait a few minutes and check the level again, fill to to between the marks on the sight glass. Reinstall the fairings and your done.
[image: user posted image]
See below for a diagram to get the plastic clips out.
Tip 1: use a power screwdriver with a hex bit that fits the fairing screws. It will make fairing removal much less of a hassle.
Tip 2: The filter will be difficult to remove. They seem to get very tight AND there's very little room to get a good grip with your hand so a "small" filter removal tool is strongly advised. Now, I can get the ones I'VE INSTALLED off with one of those textured grippy work gloves.
What's the secret to removing these two pins that for some reason on on the bike? Given the no. of screws in the fairings, it seems very secure without the pins.
If you are refering to the black button fasteners on the lower front fairing and on the bottom front of the side fairings. Push the center circle in with a small phillips head screw driver. then grasp the outside edges on two sides with your fingernails and pull out.
Good lord! No wonder I couldn't get those things out! It's little wonder I didn't break the things.
Thanks guys! I'm a newbie......but I'm willing to learn. I'm hardly mechanically inclinded, but I really want to be able to do this for my bike so I'm using the kind of oil I want and saving some pretty good money in the process. Thanks again.
I use a Park hex bicycle tool for the fairing bolts. Quick removal.
After trying one recommended by the dealer, I bought the Honda oil filter wrench. The dealer wrench (a Fram I believe) slipped before hitting recommended torque levels. The Honda tool while expensive works flawlessly.
The clips really aren't that bad if you follow the diagram for removal/installation. I broke one before I read the instructions but have had no trouble since with dozens of opportunities to break them.
Put bike on center stand and place a piece of wood under the rear wheel. This will raise the rear and lower the front wheel to the ground. Then when you remove the oil filter you will have less mess on you exhaust pipe.
Finally got the bike up on the c-stand. � �The key was a tip I saw in another thread. � Make sure that the bike is level with both extensions of the c-stand on the ground, then stand and pull. � �Piece of cake after that. � � Put it up and took it down several times after that just to be sure I got the hang of it.
No spills. � �No stink after starting. � � Fresh Mobil 15W-50 (red cap) oil and a Honda filter in and ready to ride!
Aluminum foil around the pipes does a nice job of keeping the oil that will come out after removing the filter off. �
Thanks to everyone how chimed in on about three different threads helping out.
For my first oil change, I ended up with a bit of oil on the headers and what happens with the v-tec is that it mixes fresh air with the exhaust going out the pipes and it apparently pulls that fresh air from the header area, because when I first rode it after the change, I had a significant amount of oil smoke coming directly out of my exhaust pipes. I had one of those check your pants moments, thinking that I'd over filled the engine with oil and had busted a seal or something!! It went away after I finally burned off all the oil (my commute is too short!!).
i've got the oil filter wrench that Honda makes for the cars.same size and is shallow,didn't have to remove any fairings on last oil change,just put a rag on inside edge of fairing to keep oil off and used an extension and went thru the front.The Honda wrench they have at the motorcycle shops does not have the 3/8 socket adapter in the end of it.The Honda part # is 07HAA-PJ70101 if you want go to an Acura or Honda car dealer.
first - allen keys - how many of you guys can hold the key with a couple fingers - kinda like through them between the first and second knuckle and them spin it with your thumb? learned that trick "wrenching" at work and once the screw is loose - its ALL good. :cool:
next - "didn't have to remove any fairings on last oil change" - REALLY? loosened them? how did you get your hand in there to pull the oil filter out? NICE! i GOTTA check that out!
PLUS - LOVE The idea for tin foil! :bow:
finally - posted this in a seperate post, but how many of your bikes tip forward or rearward when you put it on the center stand? mine always goes forward, with significant imbalance.
For my first oil change, I ended up with a bit of oil on the headers and what happens with the v-tec is that it mixes fresh air with the exhaust going out the pipes and it apparently pulls that fresh air from the header area, because when I first rode it after the change, I had a significant amount of oil smoke coming directly out of my exhaust pipes. �I had one of those check your pants moments, thinking that I'd over filled the engine with oil and had busted a seal or something!! It went away after I finally burned off all the oil (my commute is too short!!).
The PAIR system pulls it's air from the filtered side of the air box, so I don't think that's where your oil burn-off came from. �I've had the same issue with mine and don't have a good answer as to why that happens, though it went away for me too with no noticable drop in oil level. �Next time I change the oil, I'm going to half fill the crankcase and run the engine for a few seconds. �Perhaps the oil needs to circulate into the filter and oil lines before filling fully? �I think the oil cooler holds quite a bit of oil that doesn't fully drain under normal circumstances so that may lead to an over-filled condition when going "by the book" for the oil fill amount.
first - allen keys - how many of you guys can hold the key with a couple fingers - kinda like through them between the first and second knuckle and them spin it with your thumb? learned that trick \"wrenching\" at work and once the screw is loose - its ALL good.
After trying various type of allen wrenches, I switched to an allen socket and speed wrench. This works for all the hex screws except for the ones that hold the center lower fairing insert and is a big time saver. I also decided to leave the bottom two screws on the center lower out because the side fairings seem to hold it firmly in place without the screws, and they're the biggest pain to work with due to the tight clearance between the screws and the front wheel.
Buy a K&N oil filter (#204). They have a 17mm (I think) hex welded on the end. No special filter wrench is required and no interference with the vapor canister getting a wrench on the filter OD. A standard 3/8" drive 17mm socket, 4" extender and a torque wrench and you'll be all set. Unfortunately, this doesen't help getting the original OEM filter off. That was a real PITA.
I just changed my oil this weekend, and I came across another tip for y'all.
I think that the tendency is for most people to drain the oil and change the filter on the center stand. It's really MUCH easier to do this on the side stand. Not only does more oil drain out (think about it...this is why all the drain plugs are on the LEFT side) but no oil ends up on the headers. If you look at the pan carefully, you'll notice a little "lip" cast in. With the bike on the side stand, this lip deflects the oil that drains out of the filter and keeps it off the headers. Also, everyone should go out right now and buy the Honda filter wrench. It makes removing and installing the filter (even at 20ft/lbs) cake.
If anyone is interested, here's the procedure I used: 1) Bike on center stand. Just loosen drain plug and filter. NO oil should fall out at this point. 2) Start the bike and warm it up. 3) Wait a few minutes to let the headers cool - Burns hurt! 4) Move bike to the side stand and loosen the filler cap. 5) Position your catch pan, and pull the drain plug. Use a wrench and just let the plug fall in the pan. If you try to catch it the hot oil will scald your fingers 6) Remove and drain the filter. Long leather gloves prevent burns. 7) Drink beer until it has drained thoroughly. :beer: 8) Install the filter hand tight. Be sure to wipe the seat surface and apply clean oil to the o-ring 9) Install the plug (with new crush washer) hand tight. 10) Bike on center stand. 11) Torque filter to spec...Did I mention the Honda wrench is good? 12) Torque the drain plug to spec. 13) Add three quarts of your favorite non-Honda oil. 14) Start the bike and let it idle for a minute or so. Your oil pressure light will come on for the first couple of seconds...This is OK. It will go out once the new oil fills the filter and starts to circulate. 15) Stop the motor and wait a minute or so for the oil to drain back into the pan. 14) Add additional oil to bring the level up to the top line in on the sight glass. It should take another 0.3 to 0.4 quarts. The bike should be level left to right for this step...Get a bubble-level and set it on the gas cap to check. This is important. Even a small lean left to right can make a big difference on the indicated oil level. Also, be sure to clean the filler plug and apply fresh oil to the o-ring. 15) Go ride!
I've discovered through experience that brake cleaner does wonders for removing oil spots from concrete. A little shot and a quick wipe and no one knows you were there.
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I have four fresh quarts of M1 20w50 ready to go. Slammer, I'm going to pick up a six pack on the way home so I can properly utilize your procedure. I'll have to borrow someone else's wife and kids to follow the procedure to the letter, though. Wish me luck! beer.gif
LOL! That was great slammer! I've done the ole screwdriver in oil filter trick a few times. Definately isn't the cleanest method. Heck, once I started putting the oil into the bike and forgot to put the drain bolt back in first! Doh! :doh:
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 19 Oct 2006