New topic from older thread to hopefully generate more response :happy:
The carbs are off again on the '86 700 and I'm trying to get through the enrichment circuit. I understand that it is found near where the jets are in the bowl, the tube that cannot be removed. I can feed a very tiny wire (from the dulcimer strings) down maybe three inches, then it stops. Is it supposed to come out somewhere?
It seems it should come out at the airbox side of the carbs, but when I feed the same wire down that hole, it also goes in about 2 inches and stops.
Are there other orifices through which I need to feed the wire?
Finally, do I need to remove the choke plungers to properly clean the choke circuit? I'm not sure where this circuit goes or how to clean it....
[image: View Post]coffeebrake, on 11 November 2010 - 07:28 AM, said:
Finally, do I need to remove the choke plungers to properly clean the choke circuit? I'm not sure where this circuit goes or how to clean it....
Yes remove the plunger then you can squirt carb cleaner back thru the passage and should come out the brass tube in the bowl. Clean and lubricate all the linkages and sliding surfaces. The plungers should snap back to the closed position when you are done--test it on the bench before putting back on the bike.
Also make absolutely sure that the pilot jets are clear thru the orifice and around the air holes on the upper end of the jet.
Take the pilot screws out and clean them and squirt carb cleaner thru there also. Keep track of the small washer and oring and spring on the pilot screw, not to lose or assemble incorrectly, etc..
And the fuel inlet valves--inspect and clean while you are there, look for any signs of crud build up or accumulation.
You can use a couple of drill bits or rods of the same diameter to do a bench carb synch. Open the butterfly valve and put the solid end of a 1/4" drill bit in the throat of the #2? carb under the butterfly to hold it open (i.e. the one that is not adjustable), then use the other drill bit as a gage to slide under the butterfly valves of the other carbs to check the gap and set them all the same opening if they are not already the same.
If you get it all clean it should run great with no problems, hesitation, etc. If not then you will be back in there to find the hidden crud. The hardest part is removing and installing the carb rack. Good luck and have fun getting it in top form...
Hubby crashed his KLR and messed up both feet really bad. I've been stuck close to home taking care of his needs till he can walk. The only fortunate aspect of this is the time I get to spend on the bikes.
I cannot, cannot, cannot get the linkage apart so I can remove the plunger on the carb closest to the choke cable attachment.
I did, however, get the plunger off the carb next to it. When I spray carb cleaner through that opening where the plunger goes, it comes out in the throat of the carb--NOT at the brass tube in the bowl.
Where is the brass tube in the bowl supposed to come out at?
Why am I removing the plungers when they don't come out at the brass tube?
I am really stuck and need some help here, what I am finding is not matching up with descriptions. I really, really appreciate it....
[image: View Post]coffeebrake, on 12 November 2010 - 02:59 PM, said:
How do you remove the choke plungers?
I cannot, cannot, cannot get the linkage apart so I can remove the plunger on the carb closest to the choke cable attachment.
I did, however, get the plunger off the carb next to it. When I spray carb cleaner through that opening where the plunger goes, it comes out in the throat of the carb--NOT at the brass tube in the bowl.
Where is the brass tube in the bowl supposed to come out at?
Why am I removing the plungers when they don't come out at the brass tube?
I am really stuck and need some help here, what I am finding is not matching up with descriptions. I really, really appreciate it....
you need a 12mm wrench or a set of needle nose pliers with a 90 * bend.. and CAREFULLY remove all 4 choke plungers..
spray carb cleaner in and then block where its coming out with your finger.. and spray some more..
use an air compressor and stuff the blower in the choke plunger hole.. and .. rebuild and test on your bike.
go to sears or a welding store and get the finest welding tip cleaner you can buy.. take the carbs with you.. if you stick the wire in the pilot jet.. the wire will fit the choke tube too. :fing02:
The choke plungers take a 14mm wrench. Thanks for responding, I appreciate it.
I did finally remove all four plungers but I bent one of them. :angry: But, compressed air at the pickup tube in the bowl now forces cleaner through the choke plunger hole, and carb cleaner sprayed in that tube flows right on through. They must be clean? :blush:
I had little doubt the pilot passages were in good shape, the bike idles and starts very well once it's warm. Of course with the carbs off I'm going to go through them once more, in case some funk got in there while I was handling the carbs and while they were sitting on the bench.
But that bent plunger--it doesn't spring back like the others do and it's scratched. I don't see any used ones available on Ebay, any other ideas on sourcing this part? It's $40 new...
[image: View Post]coffeebrake, on 12 November 2010 - 04:21 PM, said:
The choke plungers take a 14mm wrench. Thanks for responding, I appreciate it.
I did finally remove all four plungers but I bent one of them. :angry: But, compressed air at the pickup tube in the bowl now forces cleaner through the choke plunger hole, and carb cleaner sprayed in that tube flows right on through. They must be clean? :blush:
I had little doubt the pilot passages were in good shape, the bike idles and starts very well once it's warm. Of course with the carbs off I'm going to go through them once more, in case some funk got in there while I was handling the carbs and while they were sitting on the bench.
But that bent plunger--it doesn't spring back like the others do and it's scratched. I don't see any used ones available on Ebay, any other ideas on sourcing this part? It's $40 new...
Thanks for any ideas!
i will check my stash of parts and see if i have any,,, you can heat it up and bend it back..
send me a pic so i can make sure its the same..
[image: View Post]coffeebrake, on 15 November 2010 - 06:23 AM, said:
If this pic isn't good enough I can send more, or measurements, no problem....
Where did it get bent--how about a picture of the bent one?
i usually use some steel wool or a very fine 3M scrubby pad to polish up the side of big end of the piston and remove any burrs, and then use a light coat of grease on the piston so they slide very easily...
[image: View Post]kennybobby, on 15 November 2010 - 10:03 AM, said:
[image: View Post]coffeebrake, on 15 November 2010 - 06:23 AM, said:
If this pic isn't good enough I can send more, or measurements, no problem....
Where did it get bent--how about a picture of the bent one?
i usually use some steel wool or a very fine 3M scrubby pad to polish up the side of big end of the piston and remove any burrs, and then use a light coat of grease on the piston so they slide very easily...
I wish. I bent the end that the choke linkage grabs. I bent it so bad that it's cracked across the brass. No fixing it. If I could braze really, really well I'd attempt it but it's beyond anything I can fix.
In fact you could say that I bent it so badly, I broke it.
A GL1200 will fit, as will a ST1100 one but that's just as hard to find used.
The '87 CB1000 is remarkably close, the shaft part is just a tad too long, I may try to modify one to fit...if it doesn't work I'll just pony up the $40 for a new one if they still exist. Unless somebody wants to sell the part, of course....
I'm going to try the one for the CBR1000, all the diameters are the same and the length is right, but the ratio of shaft to cutout part is longer....so theoretically I can shave the shaft with a jeweler's file 1/16" and make it work. It may not need any work at all, since this is where the claw grabs it and that part is adjustable.
In the meantime I finally got some chain adjusters. I'm thoroughly cleaning the chain which has 25 years worth of dust on it, but no rust. Hoping its life indoors will keep me from having to buy new.
And kicking myself for breaking the plunger in the first place. :angry:
End of thread · 15 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011