Stuck 6th Gen Oil Filter

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

So, no leaks all was well and good until it was time to remove this filter cartridge on the next oil change. No budgee!! Soaked the mating surface w/PB Blaster penetrating catalyst, waited 20 minutes for effect, hammered a screwdriver through the filter in an attempt to gain leverage, tugged counterclockwise. Still no budgee, except for the screwdriver ripping through the soft metal cartridge. Now, I've run out of options and was hoping to solicit possible solutions from the board. Thoughts anyone?

[image: post-14997-0-76261000-1298320041_thumb.j]

Well, screwdriver was my best idea!

Must be a misprint in a manual somewhere, I swear that's the second time I heard that number.

No good way to do it now, just keep working at it. Big channel locks or something. Find a more solid part of it and hammer it?

Strap wrench might still work...

strap wrench? looks like there may be enough left there to grab onto.

Mike

Put a steel hose clamp on it as close to the base as possible.

Tighten the clamp with a socket as tight as you can.

Grab a big flat screwdriver and a hammer and tap it ever harder until it starts to turn.

That oughtta do it!

well, you are already tearing up the filter. Continue. One of those "claw" type filter wrenches works for me in this situation (was an oil changer for awhile after college, and brake guy, tire guy, etc at the speedy lube - seen lots of these). Wal mart has the filter wrench I refer too, and I prefer them to the screwdriver method. You may have enough room there for the claw (they look like pliers, but big), and once you grab it and crush the filter (or its remains) a little, it will deform the mating surface and you should be able to get the thing spinning.

Otherwise, just tear off the filter, and use some slip joints to get the base off.

Cheers!

P.S. +1 on the hand tight.

I did the same thing you did. I completely destroyed the filter with a screwdriver. I ended up taking off the evap cannister to gain easier access to the oil filter then grabbed the filter (or what was left of it) with some channel locks. It eventually broke loose then spun right off. What should have taken about 30 minutes and a few beers total took over an hour plus more beer than originally planned (which is not such a bad thing looking back).

dendron

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

So, no leaks all was well and good until it was time to remove this filter cartridge on the next oil change. No budgee!! Soaked the mating surface w/PB Blaster penetrating catalyst, waited 20 minutes for effect, hammered a screwdriver through the filter in an attempt to gain leverage, tugged counterclockwise. Still no budgee, except for the screwdriver ripping through the soft metal cartridge. Now, I've run out of options and was hoping to solicit possible solutions from the board. Thoughts anyone?

CanadianVFR has it right.

Use the worm gear hose clamp and tighten at the base. Tapping the hose clamp will get to start to turn. If you tighten it with a socket and extension. Use the same socket and extension to tap the hose clamp. I no longer use a torque wrench on the filter, I tight by hand. When a filter is this hard to get off, it usually means that no oil was applied to the filter gasket before installation.

Jack

KPerham

Well, screwdriver was my best idea!

Must be a misprint in a manual somewhere, I swear that's the second time I heard that number.

No good way to do it now, just keep working at it. Big channel locks or something. Find a more solid part of it and hammer it?

Strap wrench might still work...

A bit too much oil on the cartridge surface to get the strap wrench to grip, K. Plus no strap wrench leverage room with the exhaust pipe and coolant hoses in the way. Removing the evap. canister helps access a bit but still too tight.

whiteboyslo

strap wrench? looks like there may be enough left there to grab onto.

Mike

The camera angle is deceptive. It's really too tight for a strap wrench.

canadIANviffer

Put a steel hose clamp on it as close to the base as possible.

Tighten the clamp with a socket as tight as you can.

Grab a big flat screwdriver and a hammer and tap it ever harder until it starts to turn.

That oughtta do it!

Ah-ha! I like this. I have a 5" diameter worm drive clamp at work that I can try tomorrow.

Jmmymc750

well, you are already tearing up the filter. Continue. One of those "claw" type filter wrenches works for me in this situation (was an oil changer for awhile after college, and brake guy, tire guy, etc at the speedy lube - seen lots of these). Wal mart has the filter wrench I refer too, and I prefer them to the screwdriver method. You may have enough room there for the claw (they look like pliers, but big), and once you grab it and crush the filter (or its remains) a little, it will deform the mating surface and you should be able to get the thing spinning.

Otherwise, just tear off the filter, and use some slip joints to get the base off.

Cheers!

P.S. +1 on the hand tight.

Trying not to buy new tools here, Jimmy. Though it may come to this. There may not be enough room for big pliers.

Vecky5

I did the same thing you did. I completely destroyed the filter with a screwdriver. I ended up taking off the evap cannister to gain easier access to the oil filter then grabbed the filter (or what was left of it) with some channel locks. It eventually broke loose then spun right off. What should have taken about 30 minutes and a few beers total took over an hour plus more beer than originally planned (which is not such a bad thing looking back).

My channel locks don't quite fit around the cartridge, but removing the evap. canister does provide a bit more access from the right side. Good idea!

joneill

dendron

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

So, no leaks all was well and good until it was time to remove this filter cartridge on the next oil change. No budgee!! Soaked the mating surface w/PB Blaster penetrating catalyst, waited 20 minutes for effect, hammered a screwdriver through the filter in an attempt to gain leverage, tugged counterclockwise. Still no budgee, except for the screwdriver ripping through the soft metal cartridge. Now, I've run out of options and was hoping to solicit possible solutions from the board. Thoughts anyone?

CanadianVFR has it right.

Use the worm gear hose clamp and tighten at the base. Tapping the hose clamp will get to start to turn. If you tighten it with a socket and extension. Use the same socket and extension to tap the hose clamp. I no longer use a torque wrench on the filter, I tight by hand. When a filter is this hard to get off, it usually means that no oil was applied to the filter gasket before installation.

Jack

Thanks Jack for that confirmation. Yeah, I'm thinking this is the way to try. I did apply a thin coating to the filter gasket on installation, but maybe it was too thin, or, maybe...Honda's torque spec is WHACKED! :goofy:

canadIANviffer

Put a steel hose clamp on it as close to the base as possible.

Tighten the clamp with a socket as tight as you can.

Grab a big flat screwdriver and a hammer and tap it ever harder until it starts to turn.

That oughtta do it!

That's brilliant! I wish I had thought of that.

dendronJack for that confirmation. Yeah, I'm thinking this is the way to try. I did apply a thin coating to the filter gasket on installation, but maybe it was too thin, or, maybe...Honda's torque spec is WHACKED! :goofy:

I assume you used a 3/8" Ft/lbs torque wrench with a range between 15 and 150ft/lbs. Torque wrenches are the least accurate at the extremes of their range and the most in the middle, the variance can be upwards of +/-9% or better. It is best to keep a set of in/lbs and ft/lbs wrenches with a healthy overlap in range. I have a short handled in/lbs wrench I use for anything under 25ft/lbs for safety sake.

That said oil filters don't need a torque value but writing "hand tight" in a service manual offends tech writers.

dendron

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

Thoughts anyone?

You got me curious and I looked in my 5th gen manual for oil changes. - Oil filter spec is 7 ft-lbs and Oil drain plug is 22ft-lbs. - 7 seems reasonable on th filter but 22 on the plug seems over zealous. No matter to me, I go by hand tight plus a quarter turn and by feel on the plug.

Btw - for your problem I have a huge pair of channel locks with curved jaws that I would attack that with. Another idea, large pipe wrench?

Good luck

Synaptic Misfire

dendronJack for that confirmation. Yeah, I'm thinking this is the way to try. I did apply a thin coating to the filter gasket on installation, but maybe it was too thin, or, maybe...Honda's torque spec is WHACKED! :goofy:

I assume you used a 3/8" Ft/lbs torque wrench with a range between 15 and 150ft/lbs. Torque wrenches are the least accurate at the extremes of their range and the most in the middle, the variance can be upwards of +/-9% or better. It is best to keep a set of in/lbs and ft/lbs wrenches with a healthy overlap in range. I have a short handled in/lbs wrench I use for anything under 25ft/lbs for safety sake.

That said oil filters don't need a torque value but writing "hand tight" in a service manual offends tech writers.

My 1/2" drive torque wrench scales to 150 ft./lbs. The 3/8" drive, which I used, scales to 100 ft/lbs at +/- 4% accuracy (supposedly), and it's fairly new. But you're right, lower torque settings are more accurately applied with a in/lbs wrench. And, that's really how the factory spec should have been described in the manual, in in/lbs. IMHO, 20 ft/lbs is serious overkill for a delicate motorcycle oil filter, leading to the problem I've described here. I'm sure I'm not the first to attempt to apply the service manual specification only to find the filter frozen in place on its removal. After all, this is what VFRD is so good at, being able to learn from other's experiences. :biggrin:

Trying not buy new tools? I have always chosen my dwelling close to a Sears with good tool selection, much like early man chose based on water and game supply, along with fertile soil. If you need a tool, go buy it (even when I was in school the first time, that mantra worked to about the 50 dollar mark, when 50 dollars may as well have been 5000). Especially at 7 bucks. If you are going to do your own wrenching, you should never scrimp on tools. They will last (I bought the sockets that I currently use in 1988, from Sears).

I hope the hose clamp tip works for you. Had you gone to Sears or Wally world for the filter pliers that I affectionately call the "claw", you would be out 7 bucks, less than the cost of a decent 6pack, and been done already, as you can almost get your channel locks around it, then you would certainly get the claw in there!

The weather is 76 degrees here today, so I am thinking in riding time terms. Although, when I leave my office, I get to go home and sit in front of my home computer to work on some more writing. I don't get to ride really anyway! Booooo! Hiss.

mello dude

dendron

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

Thoughts anyone?

You got me curious and I looked in my 5th gen manual for oil changes. - Oil filter spec is 7 ft-lbs and Oil drain plug is 22ft-lbs. - 7 seems reasonable on th filter but 22 on the plug seems over zealous. No matter to me, I go by hand tight plus a quarter turn and by feel on the plug.

Wow, from 7 to 20 ft/lbs, that's a huge difference between 5th and 6th gen oil filter torque specs, mello, for what is essentially the same operation! Drain plug torque is identical at 22, and 7 is prolly what the 6th gen filter should be also. It's hard to imagine what could account for such a wide difference. Maybe the engineers were concerned VTEC would circulate oil at a greater force and cause weeping at the filter junction or something. :blink:

Jmmymc750

Trying not buy new tools? I have always chosen my dwelling close to a Sears with good tool selection, much like early man chose based on water and game supply, along with fertile soil. If you need a tool, go buy it (even when I was in school the first time, that mantra worked to about the 50 dollar mark, when 50 dollars may as well have been 5000). Especially at 7 bucks. If you are going to do your own wrenching, you should never scrimp on tools. They will last (I bought the sockets that I currently use in 1988, from Sears).

I hope the hose clamp tip works for you. Had you gone to Sears or Wally world for the filter pliers that I affectionately call the "claw", you would be out 7 bucks, less than the cost of a decent 6pack, and been done already, as you can almost get your channel locks around it, then you would certainly get the claw in there!

The weather is 76 degrees here today, so I am thinking in riding time terms. Although, when I leave my office, I get to go home and sit in front of my home computer to work on some more writing. I don't get to ride really anyway! Booooo! Hiss.

I may have to investigate this "claw" of yours, Jimmy. Thanks for the tip.

You need to purchse an oil folter socket that fits perfectly on to the oil filter you are using. A perfect fitting cup would never spin on the filter. That and a long extension are ideal. At work when If i get an oil filter that jiffy lube put on at 4000ft,lb's I use a big pair of channel lock type oil filter pliers. I havent had a filter that I couldnt remove with these. They are actually like channel locks but only have a few teeth and are meant for removing oil filters. They are even curved to get in there.

Forget the torque spec. I have been a professional tech for nearly 20 years and have never torqued an oil filter. Put it on hand tight and use the cup, socket to snug it up.

The claw type oil filter pliers are the best solution to this problem. I have only had to buy one plier.

I assume your oil filter socket fits well but slipped because of how tight. Good thing it didnt leak.

you dont need a torque wrench for the oil filter. you will always over tighten it that way.heck i dont even use a torque wrench on the drain bolt. no need to tighten it to right before you snap off the bolt.

soichiro

You need to purchse an oil folter socket that fits perfectly on to the oil filter you are using. That and a long extension are ideal. At work when I get an oil filter that jiffy lube put on at 4000ft,lb's I use a big pair of channel lock type oil folter pliers. I havent had a filter that I couldnt remove with these. They are actually like channel locks but only have a few teeth and are meant for removing oil filters.

Forget the torque spec. I have been a professional tech for nearly 20 years and have never torqued an oil filter. Put it on hand tight and use the cup, socket to snug it up.

Sounds like Jimmymc750's "claw." Yep, I'll definitely have to pick-up that tool. I realize you don't concern yourself with torque specs on oil filters, soichiro, nor do I...anymore. But, I'm curious, what would cause Honda to bump the "official" spec from 7 to 20 ft./lbs from 5th to 6th gens? Thanks for your help, I'll hang up now and take your reply off the air. :biggrin:

dendron

soichiro

You need to purchse an oil folter socket that fits perfectly on to the oil filter you are using. That and a long extension are ideal. At work when I get an oil filter that jiffy lube put on at 4000ft,lb's I use a big pair of channel lock type oil folter pliers. I havent had a filter that I couldnt remove with these. They are actually like channel locks but only have a few teeth and are meant for removing oil filters.

Forget the torque spec. I have been a professional tech for nearly 20 years and have never torqued an oil filter. Put it on hand tight and use the cup, socket to snug it up.

Sounds like Jimmymc750's "claw." Yep, I'll definitely have to pick-up that tool. I realize you don't concern yourself with torque specs on oil filters, soichiro, nor do I...anymore. But, I'm curious, what would cause Honda to bump the "official" spec from 7 to 20 ft./lbs from 5th to 6th gens? Thanks for your help, I'll hang up now and take your reply off the air. :biggrin:

It could be a mistake. We find errors in honda manuals, parts books all the time.

I tighten the filter by hand and then snug it up with socket. I put mine on pretty tight but my socket fits perfect, so I have no trouble removing it.

dendron

soichiro

You need to purchse an oil folter socket that fits perfectly on to the oil filter you are using. That and a long extension are ideal. At work when I get an oil filter that jiffy lube put on at 4000ft,lb's I use a big pair of channel lock type oil folter pliers. I havent had a filter that I couldnt remove with these. They are actually like channel locks but only have a few teeth and are meant for removing oil filters.

Forget the torque spec. I have been a professional tech for nearly 20 years and have never torqued an oil filter. Put it on hand tight and use the cup, socket to snug it up.

Sounds like Jimmymc750's "claw." Yep, I'll definitely have to pick-up that tool. I realize you don't concern yourself with torque specs on oil filters, soichiro, nor do I...anymore. But, I'm curious, what would cause Honda to bump the "official" spec from 7 to 20 ft./lbs from 5th to 6th gens? Thanks for your help, I'll hang up now and take your reply off the air. :biggrin:

It could be a mistake. We find errors in honda manuals, parts books all the time.

I tighten the filter by hand and then snug it up with socket. I put mine on pretty tight but my socket fits perfect, so I have no trouble removing it.

^^^^^^

It's probably an error. I have 3 other Honda manuals and stuff is listed as follows ---

- Valkyrie = 7 ft-lbs filter, 25 ft-lbs plug,

-4th gen = 7 ft-lbs filter, 22 ft-bs plug,

-- Super Hawk VTR1000 = 7 ft-lbs filter, 22 ft-lbs plug

soichiro

It could be a mistake. We find errors in honda manuals, parts books all the time.

I tighten the filter by hand and then snug it up with socket. I put mine on pretty tight but my socket fits perfect, so I have no trouble removing it.

mello dude

^^^^^^

It's probably an error. I have 3 other Honda manuals and stuff is listed as follows ---

- Valkyrie = 7 ft-lbs filter, 25 ft-lbs plug,

-4th gen = 7 ft-lbs filter, 22 ft-bs plug,

-- Super Hawk VTR1000 = 7 ft-lbs filter, 22 ft-lbs plug

By Jove, I think we've hit it, mates! I would say a mistake is definitely the case here. That's what I get for taking the manual literally; it's just plain wrong! Thanks for your all insight, folks, experience is the best teacher. So, Mother Honda makes mistakes, too...who knew? :comp13: Now, if I can just get the damn filter off. I'll update later after trying a couple of approaches mentioned in this thread. Appreciate your thoughts,everybody. :fing02:

I'll back off as well, I have been using the manual torque value, but have been using a tight fitting(Honda) oil filter socket, so I've had no problems, but I could tell it's tighter than my hand tightening methods in my "previous live". Thx for the tip...

Monk

I'll back off as well, I have been using the manual torque value, but have been using a tight fitting(Honda) oil filter socket, so I've had no problems, but I could tell it's tighter than my hand tightening methods in my "previous live". Thx for the tip...

I'm using the same OEM filter wrench, Monk, but the Super Tech filters don't fit it quite as well as the Honda filters, for obvious reasons I suppose, but I'm cheap. And, sometimes that costs you more in the long run. :blush: But, it should work fine on the Super Tech for 1/4 turn after hand tightening.

dendron

Thoughts anyone?

I hope you started the engine and allow temp to rise until the fan

came on... heat is your friend because it will expand every part and

release tension...

I had this same problem about 8 months ago though mine had only been hand tightening. I broke tools trying to get it off. Click on the thread below.

My Stuck Oil Filter Thread

In the first reply Seb recommended a "claw" like filter wrench made by Powerbuilt. It worked like a charm once I got it. The harder you torque the socket wrench you have it on, the harder it grips the filter. Not sure if the fact that you have already torn some of the filter housing will reduce it's effectiveness. I had dented mine pretty well attacking it with various other filter wrench tools and strap wrenches before I tried this one. But I didn't want to try the screwdriver through the filter method except as a last resort because I was afraid of the situation you're in now.

Also, it is very important that you clean the outside of the filter with soap and water and get it really dry. Just a little bit of oil or even water will greatly reduce the amount of force you can apply with any kind of filter wrench.

BusyLittleShop

dendron

Thoughts anyone?

I hope you started the engine and allow temp to rise until the fan

came on... heat is your friend because it will expand every part and

release tension...

He's already ripped a hole in the filter. I think this method of applying heat would get very messy and wasteful of oil. If you want to try applying heat to the filter use a heat gun instead.

I bought one of those claw thingys and the durn thing is too big for to grab the VFR filter. There must be different sizes.

mello dude

I bought one of those claw thingys and the durn thing is too big for to grab the VFR filter. There must be different sizes.

There a couple of size ranges and you need the right one. I forget which one the VFR is and I'm not at home where I can go check my toolbox.

VFRBulldawg

mello dude

I bought one of those claw thingys and the durn thing is too big for to grab the VFR filter. There must be different sizes.

There a couple of size ranges and you need the right one. I forget which one the VFR is and I'm not at home where I can go check my toolbox.

This is what I bought:

[image: %21By2v-mwCGk%7E$%28KGrHqN,%21i0Ew5leyiIMBMTdi%21SsW%21%7E%7E_35.JPG]

From this listing: 3-leg oil filter wrench

Works for my 6th gen and for my '89 Nissan S-Cargo.

I always use a K&N Filter on my bikes (street and track). It has a nut on the end of it for easy on and off. Plus you can drill the nut to wire for trackbikes. More expensive, yes, but I avoid issues like these completely.

I used to remove them subborn filters by hitting the lib with a chisel/flat blade ScrewDriver.

And then use the dent in the lip and change the angle of the chisel so the filter would turn ccw...

hopes it will help!

dendron

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

So, no leaks all was well and good until it was time to remove this filter cartridge on the next oil change. No budgee!! Soaked the mating surface w/PB Blaster penetrating catalyst, waited 20 minutes for effect, hammered a screwdriver through the filter in an attempt to gain leverage, tugged counterclockwise. Still no budgee, except for the screwdriver ripping through the soft metal cartridge. Now, I've run out of options and was hoping to solicit possible solutions from the board. Thoughts anyone?

Inquiring minds want to know -

Did you get the filter off? What method worked for you?

joneill

dendron

This filter (Wally World Super Tech ST7317 made by Champion) was installed and torqued to spec (20 ft.lbs -- this just HAS to be wrong Honda!) per the VFR service manual on the last oil change. Just before reaching the 20 ft. lbs click the filter wrench began to spin on the cartridge. I've since come to realize through a consensus of other forum contributors that this should be hand-tightened + 1/4turn on said filter wrench, which is certainly less than 20 ft./lbs.

So, no leaks all was well and good until it was time to remove this filter cartridge on the next oil change. No budgee!! Soaked the mating surface w/PB Blaster penetrating catalyst, waited 20 minutes for effect, hammered a screwdriver through the filter in an attempt to gain leverage, tugged counterclockwise. Still no budgee, except for the screwdriver ripping through the soft metal cartridge. Now, I've run out of options and was hoping to solicit possible solutions from the board. Thoughts anyone?

Inquiring minds want to know -

Did you get the filter off? What method worked for you?

O.k., here's the update:

First I used a pair of slip-joint Fram oil filter pliers (thx Jimmymc750 and Soichiro)... [image: 0002558227001_P255045_180X180.jpg] I thought,

"Surely these will do the job!" Well, on their narrowest setting they were just barely too big and would slip when force was applied, even though the filter was wiped down as much as possible. There's prolly a smaller pair of pliers for smaller filters, but everyone stocks for automotive sizes because that's where the greater volume of sales is, so they're harder to find without ordering online. Hmmm, alright, let's try the hose clamp trick

(thx CanadIANviffer). Bought a pair of #48 hose clamps, wiped down the filter as best as could be, snugged one up as close to the block as possible cranked down on it with a 8mm hex socket & ratchet, tapped on the end of the worm drive bolt...IT MOVED! But, the filter didn't, unfortunately. Cranked down a little more, *tap* *tap* *tap* it moved again, still, the filter remained steadfast. I repeated this one more time. Now, I had to loosen the clamp to reposition the worm drive for forther tapping attempts. In doing this, I noticed the drive bolt had pushed clean through the other end of its housing and recessed the screwdriver slot to the point where it was inaccessable. Now, I can't get it off of the filter that I also still can't get off without more major surgery. :pissed: A better built hose clamp might have done the trick here, but the soft metal garden variety I purchased, plucked from a container from somewhere along the Pacific rim, wasn't cuttin' it.

After perusing through all of the responses (most of which were great, many thanks and props to you all) and VFRBulldawg's thread from last summer about this same problem, I went ahead and ordered one of these from Amazon:

Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool

[image: 51RMpeAiQ4L._SL500_AA300_.jpg]

[image: 41BPufCSLlL._SL500_AA300_.jpg]

Props to vfrjim2002 who called it..."These things are the pit bulls of filter wrenches." We shall see. Stay tuned toward the end of next week when the next chapter begins. Meanwhile, my steed remains lifeless in the garage, without blood...naked.

dendron

Props to vfrjim2002 who called it..."These things are the pit bulls of filter wrenches." We shall see. Stay tuned toward the end of next week when the next chapter begins. Meanwhile, my steed remains lifeless in the garage, without blood...naked.

Wow, I feel for you dude -- - this is turning into the epic adventures of stuck oil filters, sounds like a timmy video.

more ideas... (gotta admitt, I cant ever remember of having a stuck filter, may a little stubborn, but not stuck)

First shot - this thing has never let me down...(dunno where I would buy one, Ive had it for years)

[image: P8030150.jpg]

And the wits end, pissed off, mean mother approach.....

[image: NutCrusher.jpg]

Good luck!!

Oh man - I thought we'd have you back on 2 wheels by now! This has got to be really frustrating (don't get me started about Honda's placement of the filter). Most of the conventional tools for getting these things off rely on the integrity of the housing for them to grab on to. Once the housing gets shredded some, it loses its integrity, much like an egg. Maybe it's time to bypass (no pun intended) the housing and go straight for the jugular at the base plate. Desperate times call for desperate measures. Assuming you have a new filter, you can measure the distance between the holes in the base and work up something to grab on to them. It would require using a Dremel cutoff wheel or some technique to remove the "can" of the filter, leaving mostly just the base plate remaining against the block. It's a bear as 6th gens have very little room to maneuver in there. Once the can and filter media is gone, fab up something from the base plate of the Lisle 63600 tool that you showed earlier. Drill 2 or 3 holes equidistant from the square drive for bolts (I would go for the gusto and use grade 8's) just small enough to engage the holes in the base plate. Use nuts on the bolts to retain them securely in the holes you made. Then apply the tool to the base plate, placing the 2 or 3 bolts in to the base plate holes, and then using an extension and a good size ratchet or breaker bar to apply torque to the plate. This should get it. I found a Youtube video after some looking of some one who did what I was imagining. Skip ahead to about 5 1/2 minutes and you'll see what I'm getting at. If this doesn't get it off, I don't know what will. Keep us posted.

Base plate removal

Gamecock94

I always use a K&N Filter on my bikes (street and track). It has a nut on the end of it for easy on and off. Plus you can drill the nut to wire for trackbikes. More expensive, yes, but I avoid issues like these completely.

+1 I once had to lay my 720 pound ST1300 on its side for leverage to remove the oil filter the dealer put on for the PO. K&N every since

Dave.

HOLY HELLAOUS....It's been almost a WEEK!! (not that you had to be told that) Although I haven't had to deal with this & hope I never will, I think I do feel your pain dendron. I'm sorry I don't have any advice to offer but do wish you the best of luck & am interested to hear the final outcome.

+2 (or 3 or whatever) on the K&N. I keep a donut shaped magnet around the nut on the filter figuring it might help trap any small metal particles flowing thru it.

The chisel method previously described usually works.

As said before, get a long chisel or blade screwdriver and tap a notch into the edge of the baseplate. Then put the chisel into the notch, turn it at an angle and tap with a hammer. Just be sure you are tapping in the correct direction to turn the baseplatecounter clockwise.

I've looked though these post and if I missed it, sorry.

I would think most people know to put oil on the rubber oil ring of the filter before installing.... But if you don't, it's something to consider......... :fing02:

Tapping the base plate without scarring the motors metal would get my vote...

Good advice, all. I'm going to wait on the arrival of the Lisle tool from Amazon while there is still something left for it to grab onto. Failing that, the gloves are off, baby, it's the studs-on-baseplate method, then the chisel method. I'm crossing fingers here that the Lisle tool, when it arrives, doesn't simply crush what's left of the filter cartridge and require more drastic measures. The tool should arrive mid-week. I'll be checking back in with results/photos post operation. Hate to miss out on a beautiful 75 degree riding weekend, but, "And...so it goes," as Kurt (Vonnegut) would say.

Btw, I did apply fresh oil to the filter O-ring prior to installation...honest...really. I'm tellin' ya, it's that damn bogus spec in the manual. O.K., I know, I know...NOW! :angry:

Experience is the best teacher! :biggrin:

Foot pounds, Schmoot pounds.........I always just tightened oil filters on my bikes and cars with just my hands since I started wrenching on my own vehicles in the 80's. Only had one stuck one that was the original installed in the factory for my VFR (Got that one off with the screwdriver method). Otherwise never had a stuck filter or any that ever fell off or loosen up on me while on the road. And of one is nervous about just using their hands to tighten the filter, one can add a hose clamp and some safety wire to ensure that it does not loosen up on the road.

Beck

95 VFR

Maybe try some emery or sandpaper rough side down under the other clamp???

And the new champion oil filter removal tool is...(envelope please)...

The LISLE 63600 Import Car Filter Wrench!!

Yea, IT WORKED, IT WORKED! :cheerleader: :cheerleader:

At last, this bad boy is off and on the tarmac...10 seconds after fitting the LISLE tool!

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Notice the failed Pacific Rim hose clamp worm drive screw pushed through its housing after a few good twists. Tapping on that just spun it around the canister.

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The LISLE wrench is truly the pit bull of filter removal tools. The more you torque it the tighter it clamps down on the filter canister. No garage should be without one even if you do only hand tighten +.

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Congrats dendron you won that battle!! That's awesome! What a relief that must be for you. I'm really glad something finally worked for you. Like the saying goes "If at first you don't succeed, try try again". You certainly did that many times over!!

Wow, I guess I'm gonna get one of those and add it to my collection.

btw - congrats!

Congratulations on winning the battle! Perseverance pays off again. I've had a few tough car and bike filters, but nothing like this epic battle. Thanks for posting your solution--could you post a pic of the actual wrench too? Where did you buy it? Thanks.

Belfry

Congratulations on winning the battle! Perseverance pays off again. I've had a few tough car and bike filters, but nothing like this epic battle. Thanks for posting your solution--could you post a pic of the actual wrench too? Where did you buy it? Thanks.

Ahh, pics!

Simply insert a 3/8" extension into this square hole and twist to the left!

[image: post-14997-0-70335800-1299300059_thumb.j]

The other side...

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Available here among other places: http://www.amazon.co..._lp_edpp_ttl_in

What's great about this tool is that it fits into very tight places, like a 6th gen filter access! I'm waaay impressed. And happy. :biggrin:

Any Canadians with access to Princess Auto - go here to see this tool:

http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/hand-tools/automotive-tools/auto-repair/8002216-oil-filter-wrench

Thanks everybody for your input. This was a good learning experience for me. Hopefully, the LISLE tool will be something you add to your garage repertoire, 'cause it damn sure works. I appreciate all of the input, and I'm glad to be a member of this forum. Best...out.

mello dude

this thing has never let me down...(dunno where I would buy one, Ive had it for years)

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I use one of these - it has NEVER failed to remove an oil filter, and fits nicely onto the VFR. Well, mine has a handle included as part of it but you get the idea.

^^^^^^ The 3/8" rachet square was the hook for me to grab it in some tool store I was in. With a rachet attached it applies torque very well in a confined area. Vaguely remember I bought when I was racing sports cars, and that had to be a couple decades ago. The thing works....