I'm sure it's a simple electrical issue but I'm pretty unhappy anyway. Had to leave my bike locked to a pole downtown because it just quit on me.
There was a festival downtown, lots of idling, bike was doing fine, up to halfway on the temp gauge and I was just cruising, loving the sound of it. I just turned 6,000 miles on a 25 year old "rescue" and it fits me great. The light turned green, I let out on the clutch and it instantly died and wouldn't start.
OK, bike gets warm and quits. When I hit the button, there is nothing: no click, nothing. Headlight cuts off like it should but the starter doesn't engage. This sounds exactly like an electrical connection. Up on the sidewalk, pull the seat and side covers. Battery is new and connections to solenoid and ground are checked and/or tightened. Solenoid fuse OK. When I bridge the terminals a the solenoid, the starter will spin the motor but it won't fire. Can't bump start it, it just won't fire.
Pulled the clutch lockout switch and put the wires together, still nothing.
There isn't a sidestand lockout on this model at least I can't find one.
Bike's in neutral, kill switch on.
So I'm at...the start button is faulty?
What else could cause a total no-go between hitting the start button and the starter engaging? Why won't the bike start when I bridge the solenoid terminals?
My bike's downtown and I had to bum a ride home and I can't even get the thing in hubby's truck by myself if it won't start.
It was in second when we tried to bump start it, no go.
We trucked it home this morning, the battery was still strong but it's trickle charging anyway, then I'm going to start with the battery and follow every connection and wire and look for where it may be shorting out. I had the whole front end apart in the past two weeks, with the switches off, so it may be something in there...also re-mounted the horn but neither of its contacts are touching the frame.
I know about the R/R having troubles but I didn't think it would be an issue with 6k on the odo.
Is there a main fuse besides the 30amp fuse on the solenoid?
We've had issues like this with several of our "Eighties Model" MSF training bikes... most of the time it was a bad key switch. We've got lots of Nighthawks and Rebels with different keys for the ignition and the fuel tank for just this reason.
Easy to check operation, unplug and follow the wiring diagram to determine if it is making all the right connections.
[image: View Post]WERA910, on 05 March 2011 - 03:13 PM, said:
We've had issues like this with several of our "Eighties Model" MSF training bikes... most of the time it was a bad key switch. We've got lots of Nighthawks and Rebels with different keys for the ignition and the fuel tank for just this reason.
Easy to check operation, unplug and follow the wiring diagram to determine if it is making all the right connections.
Thanks for this info.
When I turn the key to ON, all the lights come on like normal. But when I hit the START button, the starter motor doesn't spin, solenoid doesn't click, nothing. The headlight does go off while I push the START button like it should.
The ignition key switch would cause this?
In reading your situation, I would agree with switchblade, try push starting it to eliminate the starter. I had an issue with my '94 when the R/R went out(when I went down to Laguna Seca for the MotoGp) Push starting is easy in 2nd gear roll about 5 feet release the clutch..., you said you tried that, was the key on? kill switch on.? I also had an issue with my '80 CX500 where the ignition switch went bad...no lights but it would compression start and run (luckily it was daylight & I was able to make it home) But if your lights come on I wouldn't think it would be your ignition. I would verify the battery is charged or use jumper cables and try that to eliminate the battery. When the dreaded Regulator/Rectifier goes bad what it does is overcharges/COOKS your battery. There are many electrical trails to follow....I would first check fuses, then connections(verify clean tight conections) unplug all connectors & look for signs of weak connections(scorching, burning, melted...) Look through a manual & see if there are any safety features.... That will not allow voltage to reach the starter.
I did try to push start in second and have unfortunately gotten a lot of experience with push starts on lots of bikes.
But now in daylight I found the ignition fuse was blown. Starts right up now but I certainly want to find out WHY the ignition fuse blew.
I see no place at all that any wire is grounding out or touching.
What makes an ignition fuse blow? I can't be out running around and have this happen again...which wires would, if shorted, blow that 10 amp fuse?
I'm really miffed that it was so simple, I even had that fuse cover off on the side the road, looking for a main fuse, but couldn't see to read the labels under the cover.
[image: View Post]coffeebrake, on 06 March 2011 - 09:48 AM, said:
Hey thanks everyone for the advice.
I did try to push start in second and have unfortunately gotten a lot of experience with push starts on lots of bikes.
But now in daylight I found the ignition fuse was blown. Starts right up now but I certainly want to find out WHY the ignition fuse blew.
I see no place at all that any wire is grounding out or touching.
What makes an ignition fuse blow? I can't be out running around and have this happen again...which wires would, if shorted, blow that 10 amp fuse?
I'm really miffed that it was so simple, I even had that fuse cover off on the side the road, looking for a main fuse, but couldn't see to read the labels under the cover.
Your almost there, it only gets better and better from here !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
End of thread · 10 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011