[image: Posted Image]
I took advantage of the Ohlins sale at Cyclemall.net and ordered one for 1998 VFR, my shock has 28k miles on it and 5k of that loaded down, the shock was getting bouncy and wore out.
As you can see this version has a few features.
The shock comes with a rubber stop in case you bottom out
[image: Posted Image]
I was a bit disappointed to find the spring had paint scraped off, However this spring is set for my weight and riding style, I just touched it up. The rebound damping setting is that knob on the bottom
[image: Posted Image]
This is the hydraulic preload adjuster, this spring is stiffer and is also shorter so they screw it down a bit to get it set up correctly.
[image: Posted Image]
This is the remote preload ajuster
[image: Posted Image]
This is the gas and oil reservoir the compression damping adjustment screw is here
[image: Posted Image]
Begin By Removing the Exhaust and Rear Wheel
[image: Posted Image]
I used a scissor jack to support the rear when removing the old shock
[image: Posted Image]
You must remove the gas tank to gain access to the upper shock bolt.
[image: Posted Image]
As you can see here the upper U bracket is very cramped, it is easier just to remove it from under the seat
[image: Posted Image]
Here is the upper bolt under all those rubber pieces
The headers are in the way
[image: Posted Image]
The headers must be moved and dropped down out of the way
Remove the heat shield - 3 hex screws
[image: Posted Image]
You can loosen the assembly enough to make room but I decided to remove them.
[image: Posted Image]
The Rear headers have a coupling that must be loosened and taken off behind the heat shield 12mm bolts.
[image: Posted Image]
Remove the front header bolts 2 on each side of the pipe, 10mm and they were not very tight.
[image: Posted Image]
Boy they were dirty and rusty!
[image: Posted Image]
Now you can remove the rear linkage and the old shock 12mm bolt 14mm nut
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
I removed the old shock by letting it drop down, holding on to it, you have to remove the U bracket cause you need that again
[image: Posted Image]
Side by side comparison, notice anything funny, THE BONE HEAD HAS THE BEARINGS BACK-WARDS! The short one goes up and the long one goes down! I was peeved to say the least.
[image: Posted Image]
Well I spent 20 minutes hammering them out and pressing them into the correct position with a vise, now they are on correctly, these bearings are just solid no needle bearings like the OEM shock has.
[image: Posted Image]
There was no way I could just run it upside down, cause the remote lines would bind and also the U bracket will only fit on the top side of the shock. Igreased everything up nicely.
[image: Posted Image]
You can see here the linkage triangle has some grooves in it, I ordered replacements, when I took it off there was some sand in there that must have been picked up off the road that made those grooves. Just like what happened to Lewis.
[image: Posted Image]
I pulled out the inner bearing on all the linkage pieces cleaned them up and greased everything, the same thing on the swing-arm mount too.
[image: Posted Image]
I threaded the remote res and preload thru the hole in the swing-arm first them lifted the new shock in place, bolted it up-top loosley.
[image: Posted Image]
A little grease on the triangles, they have a line on them to show you how they go.
[image: Posted Image]
I lined up the holes and shot the bolt thru, the scissor jack came in handy here to line up the shock. Tighten the 3 bolts to 33 ft/lbs
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
This is where I mounted the remote reservoir on the left side. cut notches in the plastic to take the clamps
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
I wanted to show it off, they tell you to mount it under the rear fairing, at least I can adjust it the way I did it. You can also see they mount the preload adjuster to the exhaust hanger.
Painting the headers
[image: Posted Image]
The headers were all rusty on the bottom so I decided to paint them with some heat resistant black paint after I washed them
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
Thanks to Smeg for the Idea!
I also put on some new grips I had in the closet, finally installed them, Here is a tip if you don't want he old ones just cut them off
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
I went and washed the bike after I had it back together, wow the new shock is amazing, the ride improved immediately, no bouncing at all! I set the rear sag to 32mm and like that feel, The rebound and compression was set already, so I did not mess with that.
DATA
shock length 325 mm
shock stroke 58mm
part number 01092-59
preload 12mm of adjustment
rebound adjustments 14 clicks
compression adjustments 12 clicks
I took advantage of the Ohlins sale at Cyclemall.net and ordered one for 1998 VFR, my shock has 28k miles on it and 5k of that loaded down, the shock was getting bouncy and wore out.
As you can see this version has a few features.
- A Remote Hydrolic Preload adjustment
- A remote gas and oil cannister w/finger stylecompression adjuster
- Finger style Rebound adjuster
The shock comes with a rubber stop in case you bottom out
[image: Posted Image]
I was a bit disappointed to find the spring had paint scraped off, However this spring is set for my weight and riding style, I just touched it up. The rebound damping setting is that knob on the bottom
[image: Posted Image]
This is the hydraulic preload adjuster, this spring is stiffer and is also shorter so they screw it down a bit to get it set up correctly.
[image: Posted Image]
This is the remote preload ajuster
[image: Posted Image]
This is the gas and oil reservoir the compression damping adjustment screw is here
[image: Posted Image]
Begin By Removing the Exhaust and Rear Wheel
[image: Posted Image]
I used a scissor jack to support the rear when removing the old shock
[image: Posted Image]
You must remove the gas tank to gain access to the upper shock bolt.
[image: Posted Image]
As you can see here the upper U bracket is very cramped, it is easier just to remove it from under the seat
[image: Posted Image]
Here is the upper bolt under all those rubber pieces
The headers are in the way
[image: Posted Image]
The headers must be moved and dropped down out of the way
Remove the heat shield - 3 hex screws
[image: Posted Image]
You can loosen the assembly enough to make room but I decided to remove them.
[image: Posted Image]
The Rear headers have a coupling that must be loosened and taken off behind the heat shield 12mm bolts.
[image: Posted Image]
Remove the front header bolts 2 on each side of the pipe, 10mm and they were not very tight.
[image: Posted Image]
Boy they were dirty and rusty!
[image: Posted Image]
Now you can remove the rear linkage and the old shock 12mm bolt 14mm nut
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
I removed the old shock by letting it drop down, holding on to it, you have to remove the U bracket cause you need that again
[image: Posted Image]
Side by side comparison, notice anything funny, THE BONE HEAD HAS THE BEARINGS BACK-WARDS! The short one goes up and the long one goes down! I was peeved to say the least.
[image: Posted Image]
Well I spent 20 minutes hammering them out and pressing them into the correct position with a vise, now they are on correctly, these bearings are just solid no needle bearings like the OEM shock has.
[image: Posted Image]
There was no way I could just run it upside down, cause the remote lines would bind and also the U bracket will only fit on the top side of the shock. Igreased everything up nicely.
[image: Posted Image]
You can see here the linkage triangle has some grooves in it, I ordered replacements, when I took it off there was some sand in there that must have been picked up off the road that made those grooves. Just like what happened to Lewis.
[image: Posted Image]
I pulled out the inner bearing on all the linkage pieces cleaned them up and greased everything, the same thing on the swing-arm mount too.
[image: Posted Image]
I threaded the remote res and preload thru the hole in the swing-arm first them lifted the new shock in place, bolted it up-top loosley.
[image: Posted Image]
A little grease on the triangles, they have a line on them to show you how they go.
[image: Posted Image]
I lined up the holes and shot the bolt thru, the scissor jack came in handy here to line up the shock. Tighten the 3 bolts to 33 ft/lbs
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
This is where I mounted the remote reservoir on the left side. cut notches in the plastic to take the clamps
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
I wanted to show it off, they tell you to mount it under the rear fairing, at least I can adjust it the way I did it. You can also see they mount the preload adjuster to the exhaust hanger.
Painting the headers
[image: Posted Image]
The headers were all rusty on the bottom so I decided to paint them with some heat resistant black paint after I washed them
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
Thanks to Smeg for the Idea!
I also put on some new grips I had in the closet, finally installed them, Here is a tip if you don't want he old ones just cut them off
[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]
I went and washed the bike after I had it back together, wow the new shock is amazing, the ride improved immediately, no bouncing at all! I set the rear sag to 32mm and like that feel, The rebound and compression was set already, so I did not mess with that.
DATA
shock length 325 mm
shock stroke 58mm
part number 01092-59
preload 12mm of adjustment
rebound adjustments 14 clicks
compression adjustments 12 clicks