Thoughts on bleeding this

Any thoughts on how to bleed this?  I bought some banjo bolts with bleeders, but I would have to buy new brake lines to use them.  Right now I just adjust my MC every evening and morning to get the double banjo below the MC reservoir so a little fluid gets down in the system, might be futile attempt, but so far I am getting fluid in the system, just very slowly.

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I'd remove it and hang upside down, stick a piece of... something that resmbles the thickness of the rotor between the pads and bleed as normal (pump, open...)

You could also tie a tie wrap around brake lever and let it sit for a day or two allowing the air in system to go up and out the master cylinder port

Dirt simple. Remove the calipers, turn them upside down and place a piece of flat steel bar inbetween the pistons and pads that is approximately the thickness of the disc.

Bleed through the 2 BLUE hex head bleeder screws on each side (which are now facing upwards). Repeat for the other side. (4 in total)

You may need to alternate between one screw and the other, back and forth, until you get all the air out, same on both sides.

Rear caliper on a 5th gen you need to remove, flip upside down on the disc, and bleed. Bleeders are on the bottom, just like yours.

What are those, Swedish ISR? Must be on your RC30?

http://www.isrbrakes...rs/22-042.shtml

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You might also want to check your master cylinder diameter:

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We recommend a 17.5 mm master cylinder for a pair of these calipers and a 14 mm M/C for single use.

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 20 January 2012 - 08:09 PM, said:

What are those, Swedish ISR? Must be on your RC30?

Yup, these are ISR's on the RC30.  Sounds simple enough, just sort of a PITA.  I have the stock rotors around here so I guess I can use those.

The stock MC works well with them, a little on the sensitive side, but very powerful.

I guess this will be a two man operation.

Thanks for the help!

no help here, nut it reminded me how difficult it eas to bleed the simmilar caliper on my Buell.  I never did get the hang of it.

I did not realize the blue hex heads at the bottom where the bleeders, I could not get too much information from the ISR site.  I am guessing this is going to be a messy job?  No way to catch the fluid being bled?

What is the allen(?) screw for on the opposite site from the brake hose? It looks to me it is the bleed screw and maybe can be replaced by a regular bleed screw? This is similar to how ATB disk brakes are bled, where you temporarily replace an allen port screw with a special bleed screw.
It looks to me the bolts on the bottom are for blocking off two other possible positions to attach the brake hose (e.g. for when the caliper is used at the rear).