'84 VF750 Interceptor HELP

Just to start off: I've been reading this forum long before I even got my motorcycle endorsement. Why? Because Interceptors were always something I drooled over consistently for the past 3 years.

Anyway fast forward to 2 weeks ago. I was visiting the "Hole in-the-Wall" used bike dealer I frequent in Miami because I like looking at what they got (new bikes every week, they come and go that fast) and as I usually do I scanned every older bike they had. I have minimal to no experience working on bikes and even less experience riding them (scooters don't count) but I heavily respect the style and contour of earlier bikes. As my eyes worked across the shop, I stopped completely at the 1984 VF 750 Interceptor sitting in the corner.

At last, I've come face to face with the legendary Interceptor..........

Right away I asked the dealer how much was it. $650 he said. I bought it.

Then I took my motorcycle endorsement/safety course the next week. Passed.

This past Saturday I had it dropped off at my friend's house, as he has more work space than my apartment, where I barely have space to work on my tiny 49cc scooter.

So Far:

-The VF turns on and runs. I learned this after buying a gallon of gas and putting it in the tank and starting it.

-It seems to shift ok (when it wants to)

-About 2 minutes after starting and revving the bike, it shut off. All the gas dripped out....

-The front brakes stick/don't come back off after squeezing them.

-The front signals are reversed (I press left, the right turns on)

-The rear turn signals don't turn on at all

-The inside of the tank looks pretty rusted.

-There's some noticeable rust near the bottom of the bike

-PO probably dropped the bike as the entire left side has aesthetic issues. Turn signal is dangling (front and rear) and plastics are cracked/broken in some areas and clutch is totally bent

That's all I can tell from the hour or so of time I had to look at it.

I really need some advice on what to do next. I don't know when I'll have time to really go into it and work on this beauty as I have school full time and work 5 days a week 8 hours a day. I know I'm going to need an original manual for sure. The only amount of work I've done with an engine is change fuses/oil/clean carbs.

h-e-l-p

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First congratulations! -- Next, you got quite a project, suggest you find a mechanically inclined buddy to help. Also there's plenty of people here who like to restore bikes to help. Good luck dude!

mello dude

First congratulations! -- Next, you got quite a project, suggest you find a mechanically inclined buddy to help. Also there's plenty of people here who like to restore bikes to help. Good luck dude!

I don't recommend a project for a first bike, but your problems with this Honda, while many, are simple. Well, except the carbs leaking the fuel out. That one's going to be the hardest, but it's still not even a day's work for the first-time wrench. And treating the fuel tank is going to take a while, if it's solid enough to be worth saving. Just don't throw the parts cannon at it. Figure out what you really have to buy before you spend anything.

Yes, a manual. And decent tools, Craftsman makes the cheapest acceptable wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. Harbor Freight for hammers, work lights, etc.

Get the motor and carbs right first--then worry about the signals.

Start Googling for how-tos and videos. Search for things like "replacing motorcycle float needles," "treating rusty tanks," and "rebuilding petcocks."

Have patience. I still think a first motorcycle should be 100% streetable, because it's so frustrating to have a license and a bike that's not rideable. But this bike sounds like it's not too far from running, and it sounds like work a new home wrench can do, with patience and lots of self-study.

use a rubber mallet to unblock sticking carb floats

you should stop running it with the oil that is in it. The gasoline picked up all those rust flakes and jammed them in the float needle seats and the bowls are over filling. that is why the gas leaked out. some, if not alot of the gas (and maybe the contents of the tank when it was parked) can be inside your crankcase and gasoline does not compress. I have destroyed an engine from this very same situation.

She is a nice starting point though. Bring her back.

Sort those carbs...

Strip, clean and set float levels properly, seal the petrol tank with a recognised/recommended sealer, check valve clearances and (as mentioned above) change the oil and filter. Check brakes then see what you've got. Nice bike.

Thank you all for the support and advice so far, I really appreciate it. I'm going to visit her right now and put a cover on as it's suppose to rain all week here, so I minus well prevent any further problems by protecting this fragile beauty from getting soaking wet. I'll post more pics as I progress from here.

Also, is there any tips as to how to load a bike onto the back of a truck?I've seen this guy do it twice. I just bought a ramp since nobody I know has one, and borrowing my uncle's pickup. I know I'm going to need straps once I get it on the back to keep it in place. It seems pretty simple to me. But I was just wondering if there is any technique or do not's I just should know about?

I forgot to mention that the reason I'm moving her is because I want it closer to home in a more suitable work area.

"So Far:

-It seems to shift ok (when it wants to)

-The front brakes stick/don't come back off after squeezing them.

-The front signals are reversed (I press left, the right turns on)

-The rear turn signals don't turn on at all

-The inside of the tank looks pretty rusted.

-PO probably dropped the bike as the entire left side has aesthetic issues. Turn signal is dangling (front and rear) and plastics are cracked/broken in some areas and clutch is totally bent"

I have an 83 vf750 and have had many of the same problems and solutions.

-for the shifting problem you have to adjust the shift linkage (Loosen the two nuts then turn the shaft, this should move the shifter pedal up and down).

-for the brake problem you will have to bleed the lines and then put dot 4 brake fluid in. For the signals you have to get a new relay. It is under the Right side panel (opposite the battery) and looks like a small box with 4 prongs.

-For the tank buy a pack of metal bb's (for an airsoft gun) take your tank off, cover the holes, then fill the tank with the bb's, and shake the tank. This will take all the surface rust off.

-and for the cracks get a fiberglass repair kit (fiberglass cloth and resin) and bondo. If you want to do a big project you can do what I'm doing and repaint your bike.

Also download this service manual http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/files/file/101-83-84-vf750-parts-fiche/ It helps a lot

Anyways thats all I have

Good luck

nedhills

Also download this service manual http://www.vfrdiscus...50-parts-fiche/ It helps a lot

Anyways thats all I have

Good luck

as I see that, it's JUST the parts fiche... I do have a factory service manual I've been slowly scanning and converting to a .pdf Let me know if there's any specific chapters you might need and I can get them to you... at least until I can get the whole thing compiled and hosted. :)

Thank you all for the tips. I've decided I'm going to start on the fuel tank and work my way through the engine,, replacing any lines that I see are beyond salvage. The fuel tank definitely has rust on the inside, i can take flakes off the immediate interior with my fingers...

Anyway, I was wondering, how rusted is too rusted? I'm thinking about doing the bb's in the tank, but was wondering what to do afterwards? From what I've been reading, I should apply a type of sealer to keep it from corroding again.

I have had fantastic luck with taking old tanks to a radiator shop and having them coat the inside with some type of extra secret red goo that has had zero failures in the last 20 years. The bad part is most shops wont do it and there is no assurance that the will be careful with the paint.

Made my first step in progress today after work.

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I noticed this after removal, I'm99% sure it's not suppose to be that color. must be from rust getting into carbs.....

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And just like I thought

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looking into the open end of the carbs there is a VERY noticeable rust color... should I bother disassembling each carb and putting it into some carb cleaner overnight?

such as : [image: 1000099yz.jpg]

Also, I really think one of the tubes on the carb broke. I mean all the other one's can come out and detach, they don't look liquid tight, but they have flat ends where this one has a broken off end. is this going to be a problem???? do I need a replacement?

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I also found these springs on the floor, they popped off the carb when I pulled it out and have no idea where they go at all....

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removed the fuel tank, emptied it out and took a look inside..

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still haven't decided what to do after using the bbs to scrape off the flakey metal.. as you can see the inside is pretty gone. Also, I think I might need some new o-rings, as the tank leaked when I turned it upside down.

Having re-animated several VF750F's I can tell you certainly do have a lot of work ahead of you. I am not sure of Florida, but here in New York when a dealer sells a vehicle one of the DMV forms they sign indicates that it is "road worthy" (Called a MV-50 here). You may try and find out if Florida has something similar because if it does you are justified in complaining to the dealer and getting them to either make it road worthy or at least return some of your money to reflect the "inoperable" condition of the bike if they did not disclose that to you in the purchase documents/receipt. BTW - I would not ask the dealer about this as I already know what their answer is - "Absolutely not" Check with the Consumer Affairs agency of your state government/DMV offices as a starter and then perhaps the state's Attorney General. Good luck with your project. Once it is completed you will have a great appreciation for everything your 'ceptor is. :fing02:

Ah yes, the dreaded removal of the intake plate woe's. The carbs should always stay attached to each other and the large intake plate. If you take them apart and don't know what you're doing, small springs come out and usually roll under the work bench somewhere, never to be seen again. Lucky for you they're all there. For future reference, take close up pics of anything that you're about to disassemble no matter how sure you are that you'll remember. You do have a Honda shop manual right? Get one if not.

As far as the rusty tank, go here and get this stuff.

http://www.caswellpl...ds/epoxygas.htm

It's the best searler I've ever used. It's tough as nails and very easy to apply and doesn't have a million prep stages that could eat your paint. It doesn't care if there's rust left inside, in fact it likes a little rust to bite to. I hook up some clear hose to my shop vac to get out the last of of the acetone. Follow their easy directions and you'll be fine. Hook up an air hose to the solid fuel line after you swirl it around. Then for 15 minutes or so, work the petcock around from ON to RESERVE and back many times during the 15 minute set time. This will keep the inside lines free in case some sealer gets to them. Good luck.

Take heart, all is not lost. The fact that you removed the carbs from the manifold is water under the bridge, just remember not to do it again when you go to clean them next time. It's great you retained your springs - they usually go shooting off into the darkest depths of the garage! This thread will tell you almost everything you need to know about the process: http://vfrworld.com/...ning-carbs.html

I'm also knee deep in the "reanimation", as motorhead calls it, of another 83 VF750F. Here's the thread I've got going, you may want to follow along in case you see something that may help you out. http://vfrworld.com/...html#post346782

There's tons of great info here, along with a number of knowledgeable folks that are all too willing to help out. Good luck and keep the posts coming!

Oh, and check out www.v4market.com for aluminum tubing replacements for the plastic fuel tees that broke on you!

motorhead1977 Having re-animated several VF750F's I can tell you certainly do have a lot of work ahead of you. I am not sure of Florida, but here in New York when a dealer sells a vehicle one of the DMV forms they sign indicates that it is "road worthy" (Called a MV-50 here). You may try and find out if Florida has something similar because if it does you are justified in complaining to the dealer and getting them to either make it road worthy or at least return some of your money to reflect the "inoperable" condition of the bike if they did not disclose that to you in the purchase documents/receipt. BTW - I would not ask the dealer about this as I already know what their answer is - "Absolutely not" Check with the Consumer Affairs agency of your state government/DMV offices as a starter and then perhaps the state's Attorney General. Good luck with your project. Once it is completed you will have a great appreciation for everything your 'ceptor is. :fing02:

For the VF750 I bought it for $650 which I thought was a steal,but they let me know and stressed that it needed a LOT of work, and really werent ever planning on restoring it for that reason (they get a lot of work daily from customers with small problems like new spark plugs, oil change, etc), mentioning a lot of things that I'm currently doing (carbs cleaned and or replaced, electrical needs work, etc.)

Kel Ah yes, the dreaded removal of the intake plate woe's. The carbs should always stay attached to each other and the large intake plate. If you take them apart and don't know what you're doing, small springs come out and usually roll under the work bench somewhere, never to be seen again. Lucky for you they're all there. For future reference, take close up pics of anything that you're about to disassemble no matter how sure you are that you'll remember. You do have a Honda shop manual right? Get one if not. As far as the rusty tank, go here and get this stuff. http://www.caswellpl...ds/epoxygas.htm It's the best searler I've ever used. It's tough as nails and very easy to apply and doesn't have a million prep stages that could eat your paint. It doesn't care if there's rust left inside, in fact it likes a little rust to bite to. I hook up some clear hose to my shop vac to get out the last of of the acetone. Follow their easy directions and you'll be fine. Hook up an air hose to the solid fuel line after you swirl it around. Then for 15 minutes or so, work the petcock around from ON to RESERVE and back many times during the 15 minute set time. This will keep the inside lines free in case some sealer gets to them. Good luck.

I guess I'll slap it back on the plate :ph34r: and that seems like the best option I've seen so far for removing the rust, thank you! :smile:

Pops Take heart, all is not lost. The fact that you removed the carbs from the manifold is water under the bridge, just remember not to do it again when you go to clean them next time. It's great you retained your springs - they usually go shooting off into the darkest depths of the garage! This thread will tell you almost everything you need to know about the process: http://vfrworld.com/...ning-carbs.html I'm also knee deep in the "reanimation", as motorhead calls it, of another 83 VF750F. Here's the thread I've got going, you may want to follow along in case you see something that may help you out. http://vfrworld.com/...html#post346782 There's tons of great info here, along with a number of knowledgeable folks that are all too willing to help out. Good luck and keep the posts coming! Oh, and check out www.v4market.com for aluminum tubing replacements for the plastic fuel tees that broke on you!

Pops I read your rebuild so far on VFRW and it looks like I've learned a lot in such a small reading. Thank you for the support and nicely pictured references! and I'm all over ebay now looking for a new fuel tees :sleep: if I don't find anything for a super cheap deal I'm going to go ahead and buy new off the site you mentioned

opened up the carbs, and a ton of rust dust came out.

[image: 100 0013]

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there were neat little piles of rust dust all over the insides, like it was snowing rust. I'm beginning to wonder if simply replacing any broken parts is enough.. maybe replace all the carbs :mellow:

you cant see the snow piling effect because i blew it off just by breathing... but trust me there was a pile on every surface. also, I put everything back on where it went, not leaving it exposed and parts unlabeled for confusion..

just waiting till I get time off from school and work to get back on this

You should be able to properly clean all the carbs and bring them back to life.

It's a slow painstaking process, do not rush.

All the tiny passageways need to be completely clean all the way through the carbs and there are many of them.

+1 what Canuck says. First, get 4 ziplok bags, 1 for each carb. As you remove parts, make sure they go into the proper bag - that'll keep you from mixing parts. Refer to your manual - the diaphram springs and needles are different on the front and rear carbs! You'll want to carefully remove the float, needle and seat and filter, both jets from the float bowls. From the top, you'll remove the diaphram and needle, and the spring from the carbs. You can soak the carb bodies still on the manifold in a tub of Pine-Sol, Simple Green or similar biodegradable cleaner. Use the carb dip or spray carb cleaner to clean the jets and all the passageways in the carb bodies after they've soaked a few days. Just take your time and get everything clean clean clean.

the front carbs are downdraft carbs and the rear are side draft. stuff may look the same but they are not!. also everyone seems to love wasting tons on money on these expensive cleaners (quart of carb clean where i am anyways is like $15+tax). a tip from a mechanic i know "don't waste time and money on carb cleaners, just drop the parts in diesel fuel. it will do a better job and it doesnt harm the metal." (diesel where i am is $3 about for a gallon)just be careful not to leave it submerged in the diesel for more than 30 minutes or it will swell the o-rings inside and make them bind moving parts until the diesel disipates out of them (could be a week of regular use, longer if left sitting). when you are done just blow everything down with compressed air and reassemble. diesel is also good for flushing radiators (off the bike of course), cleaning your thermostat of any calcium buildup... just make sure there is none left in your rad or on cooling system internals when you put it back together as it does not make for a good coolant alternative. :)

Also just uploaded this:

Crocifixios

Just to start off: I've been reading this forum long before I even got my motorcycle endorsement. Why? Because Interceptors were always something I drooled over consistently for the past 3 years.

Anyway fast forward to 2 weeks ago. I was visiting the "Hole in-the-Wall" used bike dealer I frequent in Miami because I like looking at what they got (new bikes every week, they come and go that fast) and as I usually do I scanned every older bike they had. I have minimal to no experience working on bikes and even less experience riding them (scooters don't count) but I heavily respect the style and contour of earlier bikes. As my eyes worked across the shop, I stopped completely at the 1984 VF 750 Interceptor sitting in the corner.

At last, I've come face to face with the legendary Interceptor..........

Right away I asked the dealer how much was it. $650 he said. I bought it.

Then I took my motorcycle endorsement/safety course the next week. Passed.

This past Saturday I had it dropped off at my friend's house, as he has more work space than my apartment, where I barely have space to work on my tiny 49cc scooter.

So Far:

-The VF turns on and runs. I learned this after buying a gallon of gas and putting it in the tank and starting it.

-It seems to shift ok (when it wants to)

The box has always been "notchy" on the VF's. Call it "character"....

-About 2 minutes after starting and revving the bike, it shut off. All the gas dripped out....

Carbs. If it was leaking gas onto the ground, pay particular attention to the floats and seats. Clean your jets and passages while you're at it.

-The front brakes stick/don't come back off after squeezing them.

Caliper rebuild is most likley called for. You can try disassembling, cleaning and lubing the sliders first

-The front signals are reversed (I press left, the right turns on)

Someone has swapped the wiring around. It's a simple matter to switch it back. Floow the wire at the base of the turn stalk to the big connector and swap the left/right wires.

-The rear turn signals don't turn on at all

Bulbs, or more likely someone has messed up the wire plug ins given your front issues

-The inside of the tank looks pretty rusted.

Clean 'er out. everytihg from steam cleaning, to rad shops to vinager to pour in products are available

-There's some noticeable rust near the bottom of the bike

Need more info or pics

-PO probably dropped the bike as the entire left side has aesthetic issues. Turn signal is dangling (front and rear) and plastics are cracked/broken in some areas and clutch is totally bent

replace the turn stalk, replace the plastic, replace the lever.

That's all I can tell from the hour or so of time I had to look at it.

I really need some advice on what to do next. I don't know when I'll have time to really go into it and work on this beauty as I have school full time and work 5 days a week 8 hours a day. I know I'm going to need an original manual for sure.

you can download the original service manual online in PDF form

The only amount of work I've done with an engine is change fuses/oil/clean carbs.

h-e-l-p