After reading as many reviews as I could find and searching Craigslist within 250 miles of my location for several weeks I think I got a pretty good deal on my first VFR. It's a 2003 that seems to run pefectly less the clutch. I knew going in to it that this needed replacing and have a friend who is a good bike mechanic that plans to help me do the work. It also has some wear items (tires and brakes) that need replacing. I also need to check with Honda and see if the recall items have been taken care of through a dealer.
I am very excited to have found this forum and hope to find some other local owners in my area to ride with in the coming months. (Charlotte NC)
The bike has just under 16k on it, is almost perfect cosmetically, has a new battery, and I was able to pick it up for 3 grand plus a 9 hr drive round trip to get it. After tires, brakes and a clutch I should have approx 3500-3700 total in it.
I could use suggestions for anything specific to the 2003's or VFR's I need to check before getting it on the road. I would also apprecaite suggestions on best locks to use for securing the bike as I plan to use it for commuting. I am looking at a few models of disc locks and possibly a Onguard Bully chain lock.
Let me be the first to welcome you. You came to the right place for all the info you could need/want. Somebody will be along shortly to give you some advice,
BTW, you (and the bike especially) don't exist without pics.
Congrats on the new bike and welcome to the forum. It may be time to freshen up all the fluids. There are topics here that will walk you through replacing the brake fluid, clutch fluid, fork oil, etc. Also you can download the 6th gen service manual from here :http://www.vfrdiscus...with-bookmarks/. Good luck and ride safe.
[image: View Post]obryap, on 19 February 2012 - 12:09 PM, said:
Congrats on the new bike and welcome to the forum. You didn't say how many miles were on the bike, but it may be time to freshen up all the fluids. There are topics here that will walk you through replacing the brake fluid, clutch fluid, fork oil, etc. Also you can download the 6th gen service manual from here :http://www.vfrdiscus...with-bookmarks/. Good luck and ride safe.
Paul O.
FYI......He said just under 16k....Start of the 2nd paragraph.
Welcome....... I'm surprised that the clutch gave out with that low mileage, maybe drag racing type riding.......... makes me think you might want to check the cush bushings in the rear hub as well........ Good price ......... Bring her to TMac in May.
[image: View Post]nuideas, on 19 February 2012 - 10:49 AM, said:
I am looking at a few models of disc locks and possibly a Onguard Bully chain lock.
Paul
I use a disc lock and have a few chain cable locks I bought but never carry....... If the chain lock is long enough to go around something solid and your bike, then fine. But if not a disc is just as good(IMHO)..... Reasoning 4(BIG)guys can lift it onto a pick-up and be gone in 2min........... But VFR's aren't on the hot ticket list, they usually want SPORT bikes. If left outside I'd suggest using a cover with the disc....... Also when locking the cover run the lock though the mirror hole so they don't steal the cover.
Thanks Monk, I missed that, corrected it. It seems odd to have clutch issues with that low mileage. My wifes 6th gen has 45K on it with no issues at all
Thanks for all the info and especially the service manual link. I agree that the clutch is premataurely worn out and my suspicion is someone was either a novice or more likely doing wheelies with the bike. Drag racing maybe but not likely with this bike as there are lots of much faster bikes out there more suited for that. I ordered the clutch plates and springs yesterday and plan to get in to it this week as soon as they arrive........Will post pics as soon as the rain stops but may very likely get some frowns as it was just painted pure gloss black (not my call) 2 days before I got it. It was done by a professional shop and is a very nice job but not a stock color.........wish they would have gone with the pearl white but it is what it is.
I still need to order new decals. On that subject i have done some searching on the net and there seem to be lots of places to get them but I don't want crappy ones. Any suggestions on a reputable aftermaket source or should I go with OEM decals?
I have a 2003 as well (with ABS). That is a great price you got, I bought mine almost 2 years ago with 28K on it for 4200 (with the hard cases and a top case, sargent seat, helibars). Do you maintenance list and then ride. Just make sure all is in order and as you ride you see what you may need/want. I would suggest a Power Commander to smooth out the throttle chop and VTEC engagement, but its not something you NEED right off. Basically ride more, worry less. I've not had any issues with mine in the time I've had it.
[image: View Post]nuideas, on 19 February 2012 - 10:49 AM, said:
I would also apprecaite suggestions on best locks to use for securing the bike as I plan to use it for commuting. I am looking at a few models of disc locks and possibly a Onguard Bully chain lock.
Congrats on the nice find, and welcome to VFRD!
I would point out that using a chain lock will be more effective on the front wheel than on the rear. (I have a friend who used a chain lock on the rear wheel of his 6th gen, outside of his apartment building. Due to the ease of removing 4 rear lug nuts, he came out one morning and found only the rear wheel still locked to the building - the rest of the bike was gone.)
As far as disk locks go, my wife used a Xena alarm lock on her bike, back when she rode to work. The alarm is a nice additional bit of security - and serves as a reminder after a long day. ("Hey, don't forget to remove the lock before leaving the parking lot!") But it seems to eat batteries, so YMMV.
And, re-reading this, it sounds like I'm a real downer. I don't mean to be!
Ron-al reminds me to add with a disc lock (if you don't go with an alarm type) that most are coming with a lanyard attached to put on your throttle to remind you to take the lock off. And if you don't have a lanyard put the disc on and roll it in the direction you will go when you come back and get on, so you won't bang the thing against the brake parts(it will already be there).
[image: View Post]Monk, on 19 February 2012 - 08:27 PM, said:
Ron-al reminds me to add with a disc lock (if you don't go with an alarm type) that most are coming with a lanyard attached to put on your throttle to remind you to take the lock off. And if you don't have a lanyard put the disc on and roll it in the direction you will go when you come back and get on, so you won't bang the thing against the brake parts(it will already be there).
Yes after reading some horror stories I wouldn't even consider using a disk lock without a lanyard....GOOD tip! The alarmed one sounds good too but I have heard sometimes they tend to take on a mind of there own and can be overly sensitive. I saw a post on VFR modifications page and one guy suggests installing a 70.00 car alarm that is motion activated. May do that in addition to disc locks.
[image: View Post]Monk, on 19 February 2012 - 08:27 PM, said:
Ron-al reminds me to add with a disc lock (if you don't go with an alarm type) that most are coming with a lanyard attached to put on your throttle to remind you to take the lock off. And if you don't have a lanyard put the disc on and roll it in the direction you will go when you come back and get on, so you won't bang the thing against the brake parts(it will already be there).
[image: View Post]bbenthin, on 20 February 2012 - 12:17 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Monk, on 19 February 2012 - 08:27 PM, said:
Ron-al reminds me to add with a disc lock (if you don't go with an alarm type) that most are coming with a lanyard attached to put on your throttle to remind you to take the lock off. And if you don't have a lanyard put the disc on and roll it in the direction you will go when you come back and get on, so you won't bang the thing against the brake parts(it will already be there).
Based on the information you've provided so far, in addition to those made by other members (fluid changes, etc) I'd also suggest that you also consider the following services & inspections.
1) Valve clearances: Per the service schedule the 1st valve clearance inspection is called for ~ 16k miles. Thankfully,late model vfrs rarely require adjustment-and there are members on this forum who have never had their viffers' valve clearances checked. However, since there are signs that your bike may have been ridden hard (i.e. needs a clutch and brakes) I'd want to have the clearances checked if I were you. If all valves are in spec you'll have peace of mind, or if some may be out of spec (especially if some are tight) you'll have an opportunity to get them right (hopefully) before any damage can be caused. Unfortunately, due to the complexity of servicing the 6th-generation's v-tech valves this is not a inexpensive service to have done at a dealership, and also may not be someting "your friend who works on motorcycles" may have experience with. Better safe than sorry.
2) Steering head bearings: Check for looseness and dented races. If the bearings feel notchy replace & adjust the bearing assembly & races. Note that wheelies tend to be hard on these. This would be a good time to inspect & service the front forks too.
3) Change motor oil & oil filter soon: All that clutch friction plate material had to end up in the motor oil & oil filter. So even if the seller claimed (and it looks like) the motor oil and oil filter may have been changed recently, I still would only ride the bike a short distance after the clutch assembly has been replaced before changing the oil and filter again-just to be safe. This service is fairly simple to do, relatively inexpensive and represents cheap insurance in my book. Personally, I would also want to know for sure that the recommended viscosity and grade of motor oil was circulating in my viffer's crankcase. Note that energy conserving motor oils that generally fill the shelves at WallyWorld and most auto parts places are not what you want to run in a motorcycle w/a wet clutch like your vfr.
4) Verify condition of cam chain tensioner: These have proved to fail fairly commonly in 6th-generation vfrs. So if your viffer may have had a hard life, I'd want to verify the condition if I were you.
5) Also verify condition of the drive chain and both sprockets. At 16k miles w/hard use they may be about due for replacement - if they haven't been replaced already. Check for signs of rust, damaged o-rings, binding links, sprocket wear and lack of adjustment range remaining.
Also, please provide us with more information about yourself including your age, how long you've had your motorcycle license, prior motorcycles owned, etc. Note since you've indicated you're planning to commute on your viffer you discover that in stock form the vfr's lack of onboard storage options may be a hindrance. So the purchase of a tank bag, tail bag or trunk, hard or soft saddlebags, or at a minimum a backpack will probably be required.
Also, do you already own a full set of good quality weather-proof protective riding gear and do you have also have layering undergarments made of materials good for wicking moisture away from your skin? What about heated gear (electric liner/vest, electric gloves or heated grips, thermostat(s), fised battery hookup,etc. My home is probably just 150 miles or so north of Charlotte and I know morning temps around here are still commonly hovering at, or below the freezing mark. So you'll need proper gear if you intend to commute on your VFR for the next month or so.
I'm hopeful you won't find any hidden surprises when the plastics have to come off. If the motorcycle was repainted just days before you bought it, as a prospective purchaser I'd want to know why.the seller decided this was necessary, I'd also be curious about why the seller (apparently) decided to change the viffer's color scheme to black. I'd also want to find out what I could about the motorcycle's history & # of prior owners. Of course at this point such questions may be moot.
I'm hopeful you don't discover that your viffer may have been been crashed and repaired.
I used All Out Graphics at www.alloutgraphics.com. The price was right and they got the decals out quick. I added black HONDA decals to the lower fairings. Nothing fancy. They've been on a few years now. No problems. I hope this helps..
{I'm hopeful you won't find any hidden surprises when the plastics have to come off. If the motorcycle was repainted just days before you bought it, as a prospective purchaser I'd want to know why.the seller decided this was necessary, I'd also be curious about why the seller (apparently) decided to change the viffer's color scheme to black. I'd also want to find out what I could about the motorcycle's history & # of prior owners. Of course at this point such questions may be moot.}
I hope there are no surprises also. I bought this bike from a very small dealer who had purchased the bike at auction and done the paint. It doesn't have a salvage or repaired title so if it was wrecked and fixed it wasn't done via an insurance claim.
I do know and have in hand the paperwork that shows it was a repo. and fortunately there ws no issues at the DMV today getting it transfered.
I do have a second vehicle and won't be using it to commute in bitter cold temps so am not planning on heated gear but will be purchasing some solid and warm rain gear for moderately cold weather. All the other tips are much appreciated and I will be going through the bike this week.
My profile should be updated at this point but will check. I have had a motorcycle endorsement for 25 years but have only owned one bike. It was a Kawasaki 400 something...been soo long I don't remeber the model. I have ridden friends bikes on occasion but haven't owned a bike in 20 years so will taking it very easy to start with. Born in 65....Paul
I'm glad to hear you experienced no problems with getting a clear title from DMV. Also glad to hear you do have prior riding experience, but realize and agree that you should be careful and take your time getting back in the groove as you also gain familiarity with your new ride. I'm sure you'll discover there's a night-and-day difference in the performance capabilities of your new viffer vs.your Kawasaki 400.
A friend of mine purchased a similar Kawasaki back in 1978. As I recall his was a basic model KZ400 with an air-cooled parallel-twin engine and 5-speed transmission. If fact, I'm pretty sure his KZ didn't even come with an electric starter! I rode it a few times back then and though it ran well and,had good performance and was capable of keeping up w/traffic on the highway. Of course, at the time my basis for comparison was a well-used 1972 Honda CL-175 that I was riding at the time!
Since you say your viffer was a repo, that probably explains why the seller chose to re-paint it black. I'm confident the wholesaler wanted to turn it around quickly and for as little add'l investment as possible, so gloss black was probably inexpensive and in stock.
B.t.w., I was born in '58 and rec'd my m.c. license endorsement in '84, so our ages aren't that far apart. Also, if it makes you feel better I paid a seller $1k more than you did when I bought my '98 just over a year ago. Of course, I was fortunate enough to purchase from the original owner with the bike in near-showroom condition w/just over 6k miles showing. While the seller ended up misrepresenting the deal thought I was getting in several ways, I don't regret the purchase-although I would not have offered as much for the motorcycle had I known the seller would at the last minute fail to turn over some items (including a vanson jacket, tank bag, pair of gloves, service manual, passenger grab handles, etc. and a Arai helmet) which per the craigslist advertisement were supposed to be included in the deal I bid on. I briefly considered walking away, but I had been searching for a 5th generation with low miles and in excellent condition for several months before close to a year before I found this one. I was pretty p.o.'d when only as I headed to DMV with the title did I realize the 2000 model advertised was actually a '98.
When it kicks in "I really want that motorcycle..." fever can be hard to overcome.
Unfortunately, I've had other negative experiences with dealing w/sellers on craigslist who've wasted my time by grossly misrepresenting what they had for sale. For example, the seller of a Honda XR80 advertised in "perfect condition" with minor damage which in fact would not run off-choke and had the forks bent 90 degrees relative to the handlebars so that it was completely un-ridable. I also traveled to look at a '03 vfr 800 w/factory hard bags which was advertised in excellent condition for $3.8k. Of course after receiving assurances from the seller's wife that there were no significant defects, scratches etc. I ended up making a 3 hr round trip only to discover the motorcycle was not only covered w/mud, but I was unable to find more than a few inches on the bodywork that wasn't scratched.
The nerve of some people never fails to amaze me.
.
"The nerve of some people never fails to amaze me."
You've got that right. I have had some very strange dealings on CL and walked away from several. I feel pretty good about this one so far but will know better what I have by weeks end. All I know right now is is starts and runs/idels good, looks good, and needs a clutch and tires. The brakes actually have some life left in them but while I have it up and working on it I think it's a good idea to go ahead and change out the pads and checks the rotors.
End of thread · 22 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 21 Jun 2012