98 charging system re-build

At the end of last year my wife rode my 98 to work and back. Had no problems at all before this. As she pulled into the garage I noticed that the headlights seemed to dim a lot while she was jockeying it in. When she killed it I said "Start her back up". She barely turned over but did start. So, I knew it was time to work on the charging system. I did get the fun of telling my wife that she broke it because she was the last one to ride it. :laugh:

Anyway, I finally got around to testing. The stator passed all tests when cold but like everyone else, when she heated up it went to crap. So, pulled the stator and sent it off to Gary @ Custom re-wind. Gary is a great guy. Told him I belonged to VFRD and wanted the upgraded service with the larger winding wires and harness wires. He said ok, send it to me and just include payment inside the box. I asked how much and he said 75.00. I put in a check for 100.00 cause I thought that was too cheap for the service and shipping. We talked for a while on the phone and he let me know that he might not be doing it much longer due to health reasons. So, if you need one done you might get it soon. Anyway, turn around from the time I mailed it until the time I got it back was 6 days. Not bad. Forgot to take pictures of the before and after but I can tell you that it is a lot beefier and looks better than the OEM winding job.

Next step was to get with Josh and install the VFRness and new RR. Along with some other items, Josh got the parts to me in an instant. I installed the VFRness and it fit great but I decided to go a little different route after reading all the bad things about the OE connectors. I didn't want to go back into the system after doing all this work just for a corroded connector. So, I eleminated every connector in the charging system. Very simple to do with a few tools. Just take some normal butt connectors and take off the outer plastic covering or get the ones already bare. Crimp the wires real good and solder them with a small torch. Double wall, heat shrink with the sealer built in and you are set. No more loose or corroded connections. Also wired in the relay for the volt meter and powerlet.

Last wiring fix was the orange ground block. Figured while I was right there taking care of the charging system why not get this out of the way. Same thing. All wires crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked. Next, run them to the main ground point on the right side of the bike.

Just tested and the charging system is spot on.

Idle with high beams only = 15.0
Idle with high beams and fan = 13.8
5k with high beams only = 15.0
5k with high beams and fan = 15.0

I just want to thank all the VFRD members that have contributed their knowledge and skills to help the community and a special thanks to Josh for keeping some of the parts we need in stock. Now to go start performing a complete service, installing the thermostat and adjusting the cold start valves. That should have her set for now. Here are a few pictures of the finished wiring job.

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So, pulled the stator and sent it off to Gary @ Custom re-wind. Gary is a great guy. Told him I belonged to VFRD and wanted the upgraded service with the larger winding wires and harness wires. He said ok, send it to me and just include payment inside the box. I asked how much and he said 75.00. I put in a check for 100.00 cause I thought that was too cheap for the service and shipping. We talked for a while on the phone and he let me know that he might not be doing it much longer due to health reasons. So, if you need one done you might get it soon. Anyway, turn around from the time I mailed it until the time I got it back was 6 days. Not bad. Forgot to take pictures of the before and after but I can tell you that it is a lot beefier and looks better than the OEM winding job.

Why didn't I think of that when I replaced my stator?

Well, I still have the stocker, I could send that in I guess. I like the idea of the HD wires and such.

Looks and sounds like you did a thorough, clean job. I also agree w/your decision to solder the connections in lieu of re-using the factory connectors which judging by all the failures reported by owners seem to be inadequate in size & quality.

I'm curious: how many miles were on your '98 before the charging system failure? Were all the components original up to that point?

I also wonder if a normal operating voltage of 15 V seems a bit high to anyone besides me? My '98 generally reads ~13.8 V at cruising speeds and my '05 Mazda 3 reads ~ 14.1 V.

In the past when I've had voltage regulators fail in my some of my cars the resuting unrestricted voltage spike ended up ruining batteries (boiling them dry) and I'm fairly confident also caused some headlights, bulbs and other electronic components to fail at the same time or not long after after the regulator had been replaced.

Edit: I just checked the service manual and realized that (per page 16.6) the measured charging voltage at the battery s/b < 15.5 V. So at 15 V sounds like huntingun's viffer is right on...and also makes me wonder if my '98's charging system performance may fall on the low side of normal. However, since my viffer's inexpensive digital voltmeter ($4 + $3.50 shipping on E-bay) is not wired directly to the battery and I haven't confirmed the gauge's accuracy against my multimeter guess I need to take readings with my multimeter connected directly to the battery terminals at idle and 5k rpm to find out how my '98's charging system is really performing.

Thanks for the tip on Gary and possibly closing up shop.

- Wanted ----- Got a toasted 5th gen stator for a pay it forward? PM me please.

Looks and sounds like you did a thorough, clean job. I also agree w/your decision to solder the connections in lieu of re-using the factory connectors which judging by all the failures reported by owners seem to be inadequate in size & quality.

I'm curious: how many miles were on your '98 before the charging system failure? Were all the components original up to that point?

I also wonder if a normal operating voltage of 15 V seems a bit high to anyone besides me? My '98 generally reads ~13.8 V at cruising speeds and my '05 Mazda 3 reads ~ 14.1 V.

In the past when I've had voltage regulators fail in my some of my cars the resuting unrestricted voltage spike ended up ruining batteries (boiling them dry) and I'm fairly confident also caused some headlights, bulbs and other electronic components to fail at the same time or not long after after the regulator had been replaced.

Edit: I just checked the service manual and realized that (per page 16.6) the measured charging voltage at the battery s/b < 15.5 V. So at 15 V sounds like huntingun's viffer is right on...and also makes me wonder if my '98's charging system performance may fall on the low side of normal. However, since my viffer's inexpensive digital voltmeter ($4 + $3.50 shipping on E-bay) is not wired directly to the battery and I haven't confirmed the gauge's accuracy against my multimeter guess I need to take readings with my multimeter connected directly to the battery terminals at idle and 5k rpm to find out how my '98's charging system is really performing.

My bike only has 10,500 on it. I really don't think that it is a mileage thing as much as a time factor. I really think that the coating used to cover the winding wires starts to break down more than anything else. Also, the target voltage for the 98-01 is 14.2 to 14.7 IIRC. Mine floats at 14.9 to 15.0 steady so I will take the .02-.03 volts extra. At least I know that I can run extra gear if needed. It probably runs a couple tenths higher due to the larger capacity stator from Custom re-wind and the Ricks RR. I also get the same voltage reading at the battery as I do at the volt meter even though I wired the volt meter through the relay.

Thanks for the tip on Gary and possibly closing up shop.

- Wanted ----- Got a toasted 5th gen stator for a pay it forward? PM me please.

Gary did say that he might let another guy that he knows and trusts take over the shop. I hope this happens as I am impressed with the cost and the quality of work that he performed for me.

So, pulled the stator and sent it off to Gary @ Custom re-wind. Gary is a great guy. Told him I belonged to VFRD and wanted the upgraded service with the larger winding wires and harness wires. He said ok, send it to me and just include payment inside the box. I asked how much and he said 75.00. I put in a check for 100.00 cause I thought that was too cheap for the service and shipping. We talked for a while on the phone and he let me know that he might not be doing it much longer due to health reasons. So, if you need one done you might get it soon. Anyway, turn around from the time I mailed it until the time I got it back was 6 days. Not bad. Forgot to take pictures of the before and after but I can tell you that it is a lot beefier and looks better than the OEM winding job.

Why didn't I think of that when I replaced my stator?

Well, I still have the stocker, I could send that in I guess. I like the idea of the HD wires and such.

I am thinking of finding a cheap one off ebay or something like that to send in so I would have an extra laying around and ready to go. Just in case.

Thanks for the tip on Gary and possibly closing up shop.

- Wanted ----- Got a toasted 5th gen stator for a pay it forward? PM me please.

Gary did say that he might let another guy that he knows and trusts take over the shop. I hope this happens as I am impressed with the cost and the quality of work that he performed for me.

I'm with you on hoping his buddy continues the shop. I really dont expect that I will need a stator for a long time as I installed a compufire R/R that reduces the wear and tear on the stator. But it would be nice to have one with beefier and longer leads waiting on the shelf, for the time my stock stator finally eats it.

btw- Kudos on you system rework...

My bike only has 10,500 on it. I really don't think that it is a mileage thing as much as a time factor. I really think that the coating used to cover the winding wires starts to break down more than anything else. Also, the target voltage for the 98-01 is 14.2 to 14.7 IIRC. Mine floats at 14.9 to 15.0 steady so I will take the .02-.03 volts extra. At least I know that I can run extra gear if needed. It probably runs a couple tenths higher due to the larger capacity stator from Custom re-wind and the Ricks RR. I also get the same voltage reading at the battery as I do at the volt meter even though I wired the volt meter through the relay.

Hmm. I'm starting to get a little concerned since my 5th generation has just over 11.5k miles on the original stator, RR and wiring.

I rode my viffer to work this morning and noticed the digital voltmeter installed last year registered 13.7-13.8V during the ride in. Oh what a joy it has been working for an employer who has "expected" me to come to the office at least 6 days/week w/no weekends off or other breaks from the day after New Years thru April 15, or later for the last 1/4 century!

I'm starting to wonder if I really should consider making some proactive mods similar to the one's huntinggunns just made. I still wish there was a way to find out just how many other 5th-generation owners may have managed to accumulate 40k+ miles on their viffer's w/o suffering any charging system woes though.

Might have to see if I still have my stocker in the garage to send off and get rewound...