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DID vm xring meets and exceeds OEM Drive chain

25 posts Started 9 Apr 2012 Last recovered post 20 May 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 8 Jun 2012

#1
Alot of people say they've never found an aftermarket chain that out lives the OEM. Ive been through Rk oem, to two different versions of Regina, including an Oring DID. They all never made it to OEM life, not even close, usually about 60% mark at best.

So My original RK oem, went to 16,900 miles before the first link of redust popped up, and it had about 5 adjustments, so it was pretty much done. I replaced it with a $180 heavy A$$ Regina(larger than oem), and that thing died before ten thousand miles, from failure of the Zrings, which imo are crap. So I went with cheaper oring version of Regina on the following two or 3 chains, they lasted about the same but they were only about $100 in price. The I tried the DID vm oring and it failed before 10,000 miles.

Now we come to the DID VM xring.  That chain got exactly the same milege as the OEM 16,900, and its first sign of Reddust coming out of a link, the difference it had only a couple of adjustments on it, so not stretched out of spec.

But Im still running that DID xring chain now at 22,000 miles, just cutting out the orings as Links freeze up( about 1/2 dosen so far), and its not stretching, but soon I'll have to replace it.

But if looking for a chain that Meets and exceeds the OEM, set the Bar at the DID VM xring.
#2

Quote

But Im still running that DID xring chain now at 22,000 miles, just cutting out the orings as Links freeze up( about 1/2 dosen so far),
Please splane what you mean by that.  What does cutting out the o-rings do?????
#3

[image: View Post]IntAceptor, on 09 April 2012 - 06:35 PM, said:

Quote

But Im still running that DID xring chain now at 22,000 miles, just cutting out the orings as Links freeze up( about 1/2 dosen so far),
Please splane what you mean by that.  What does cutting out the o-rings do?????

The only purpose of cleaning and lubing your o-ring/x-ring/whatever the hell they come up with next-ring is to keep the rings themselves clean and operational sealing the inner grease and the actual surfaces that take most of the load INSIDE the rollers.  Spud is cutting the rings off so that he can get more fresh lube into the rollers that are binding up because the grease is dried up (for lack of a better term) and the rollers/links are no longer functioning as well as they should.

Thanks for the writeup Spud, I have the DID standard x-ring chain on my girl, and a friend just put on the VM X-ring version, I didn't think there was much difference really other than the VM being built for higher horsepower applications and the rollers were probably treated differently to be slightly stronger.  I guess they're using better grease in em to eh!!
#4
Just installed my second DID xring chain. Last one went just over 40,000km. OEM went about 30,000km. Same maintenance schedule. Full clean once or twice and lube when ever I think about it LOL. When you ride 700-800 miles a week back and forth to work cleaning a chain 2 or 3 times a week becomes a pain.
#5

[image: View Post]IntAceptor, on 09 April 2012 - 06:35 PM, said:

Quote

But Im still running that DID xring chain now at 22,000 miles, just cutting out the orings as Links freeze up( about 1/2 dosen so far),
Please splane what you mean by that.  What does cutting out the o-rings do?????

Ringed chains rust from the inside out, once the Grease Oxidizes and dries out, thats where the red dust comes from people talk about. In turn this causes the Link to bind up. You can inspect cut the orings out on those links that Bind up , and lubricate, freeing the link up for additional milege use of the chain. This particular chain, Ive gained an additional 5,000 mile thus far. I done this for several years on chains, just to save alittle money and extend the life. It is more hassle, to baby once you've done this process on a link, they do have to be Monitored closely.
#6

[image: View Post]Metallican525, on 09 April 2012 - 06:49 PM, said:

[image: View Post]IntAceptor, on 09 April 2012 - 06:35 PM, said:

Quote

But Im still running that DID xring chain now at 22,000 miles, just cutting out the orings as Links freeze up( about 1/2 dosen so far),
Please splane what you mean by that.  What does cutting out the o-rings do?????

The only purpose of cleaning and lubing your o-ring/x-ring/whatever the hell they come up with next-ring is to keep the rings themselves clean and operational sealing the inner grease and the actual surfaces that take most of the load INSIDE the rollers.  Spud is cutting the rings off so that he can get more fresh lube into the rollers that are binding up because the grease is dried up (for lack of a better term) and the rollers/links are no longer functioning as well as they should.

Thanks for the writeup Spud, I have the DID standard x-ring chain on my girl, and a friend just put on the VM X-ring version, I didn't think there was much difference really other than the VM being built for higher horsepower applications and the rollers were probably treated differently to be slightly stronger.  I guess they're using better grease in em to eh!!

The DID vmoring and the VMxring, same sze plating and everything, IMO the Oring runs hotter from more friction, than the Xring, and why the Xring yeilds condsiderable more Grease life. All chains Ive seen run the same Lithim grease internally, looks identical anyway.
#7
Nice write up!

DID have always been the best chain to start with and recently they re-did their VM series increasing their life even more. I've not run the neverst version but have run the old VM series for the last 50k miles.

BR
#8
I thought X ring was the standard. I can't remember ever using anything else. I could be mistaken but I seem to remember my 98 coming with DID X ring OEM
#9
Spud,
Are you using stock gear ratios.  I know decreasing the tooth count on the front can increase heat & wear.
#10

[image: View Post]Rush2112, on 11 April 2012 - 05:11 PM, said:

Spud,
Are you using stock gear ratios.  I know decreasing the tooth count on the front can increase heat & wear.

Yes Rush, Im completely stock
#11
Spud, what are you running for sprockets ?
#12
I've been using the D.I.D. Xring and have had some luck and some not so good luck so this time(yesterday) I installed the upgraded D.I.D.  For "1400cc plus"
  http://www.sprocketc...reet-chain.html
This is my chain records since the bike was new.  (All these chains were lubed every 500m)  

OEM chain (110 links)(sprockets F-16 & R-43)



2ndNew chain@ 12000 ; Adjustments : 28500 ; 30000



3rdNew chain@ 31000 ; Adjustments :36500(checked 1¼ to 1½")



4thNew chain@ 41500 ;



One thing that I can see right off with this one is that it measures the same play/slack with no binding all the way around the train.
We shall see if the 1st impressions are good for milage.

Of course I had 3 bikes (2 BMW's / 1 Yamaha) that were shaft drive and put 100k each on all 3 with no problems, so here's hoping.
#13
Update, my DID vm530 chain has over 23,000 miles on it, with about a 1 dosen removed orings, I think its about time to get another chain on order. But its done really well to get to this point.

Then I discovered the Vm530 has been discontinued,  replaced with a VX 530 which is a new chain replacing the 530 pro oring and the 530vm xring. The question is it as good as the vm 530. I search for specs and the VX now uses smaller 2.2mm inner plating , the same 2.4mm outer plating, but the roller is actually larger, and they give a Higher wear number.

Overall I dont trust the new remodel, cause Ive ran some DID chains no better than anyone elses, luckily I found a close out VM530 for $137, which is a good price.

Ofcourse the alternative is the new zvm530, but I didnt want to spend that much, they can be had around $170, it does come with larger 2.6mm outer plates. Next time I
ll have to go with this chain, out of no choice.
#14

[image: View Post]Gerrys02800, on 11 April 2012 - 08:37 PM, said:

Spud, what are you running for sprockets ?

I run oem sprockets, I replaced the front sprocket at 53,000 miles, it showed just a tad of wear matched to a new one, I saved it for later use. But I wont replace the front again till 60 or 65,000 miles. The rear sprocket has never been replaced, at 100,000 miles, I;ll probably replace both at next chain replacement, not this replacement). I attribute the excess sprocket life to the Heavy synthetic film base lube that I run. Ive seen a 5X improved sprocket life with this lube.  I accidently stumbled across it about 150,000 miles ago.    Ive ran dry lubes, waxes, blue label, and this stuff actually works. Including it clean up easily with wd40 if it gets on places other than the chain. It stays fluid and doesnt bind up the chain rollers, like waxes do.
#15
Does this heavy synthetic film base lube have a name?
#16

[image: View Post]Hitandrun, on 13 May 2012 - 09:59 AM, said:

Does this heavy synthetic film base lube have a name?

Motorex 622 Strong street

http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B001GMAKWY

dries similar to a lithium grease. but really eliminates metal to Metal contact, which is what saves sprockets and the Pocketbook.


http://i136.photobuc...t73/ironpig.jpg

click bottom corner of picture , should enlarge  that 53,0000 compared to brand new
#17
Dont know all about that but I have 36,000 on a D.I.D chain. Clean it a couple a three time a year.
#18
I ordered a VM530 DID xring off Amazon.com, first time I ever did that with motorcycle parts, but thats how I found a good price, over  searching the typical online motorcycle stores. I recieved it yesterday, but Im going to exploit some more Life off existing chain, I felt It better to order while I had the chance cause the VM530 is on closeout and has been discontinued.
#19
My bike is on it's original chain and sprockets at 45000 miles, never cleaned it, adjusted 4 times. I use a Scottoiler.
#20

[image: View Post]Egg on Leggs, on 18 May 2012 - 12:26 PM, said:

My bike is on it's original chain and sprockets at 45000 miles, never cleaned it, adjusted 4 times. I use a Scottoiler.

Did your Bike come with OEM Metzler Z4's how long did they last?

I saw this guy who ran only wd40 and got really high milege off a chain, with me it made no difference. The only reason I think an oiler would extend chain life by itself( compared to what ever your norm is on life), is  through vibration and chain action the oil somehow migrates past the o rings. especially once a chain gets enough wear, and it would be easy for oil to get past. MY oem  chains first link started failing right at 17,000 mile, but the chain had multiple adjustments by that time, so it was toast.

The grease dries out in my chains between 8 to 17,000 miles depending on the chain type, but they are subjected to post 100mph and tight track every ride.

I ran several chains on the vfr, 10,000 mile was average life  , THis DID vm530 has met the oem with less adjustment , and its gone 5,000 mile further. I just inspected it, thinking go ahead and replace, cause Ive removed several orings and manually lubricated, but chain stretch is well inside the Green sticker, but I did do its 4th adjustment recently, so its pretty much done, and I wont mess with it much longer.
#21

[image: View Post]spud786, on 18 May 2012 - 05:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Egg on Leggs, on 18 May 2012 - 12:26 PM, said:

My bike is on it's original chain and sprockets at 45000 miles, never cleaned it, adjusted 4 times. I use a Scottoiler.

Did your Bike come with OEM Metzler Z4's how long did they last?


Yes, they were *absolutely dreadful, lasted about 4000 miles. I repaced them with Pirelli Corsas which transformed the bike from a barely attached to the road wobbler to the bike it is supposed to be.


*The only thing I have experienced like them were 1st generation cheap Chinese tyres.
#22

[image: View Post]spud786, on 18 May 2012 - 05:48 PM, said:

The only reason I think an oiler would extend chain life by itself( compared to what ever your norm is on life), is  through vibration and chain action the oil somehow migrates past the o rings.
No. Once the oil can get past the O-rings the chain is toast. The automatic oiler keeps the O-rings clean and lubricated so they last longer.
My oiler is set to put a tiny drop of oil every 6.5mls, at 112 links that makes one drop of oil per link every 700mls. But that's on average, some links may get three drops others nothing. Now how often did you have to lubricate non O-ring chains, every 200mls?
#23

[image: View Post]V4 Rosso, on 19 May 2012 - 04:27 AM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on 18 May 2012 - 05:48 PM, said:

The only reason I think an oiler would extend chain life by itself( compared to what ever your norm is on life), is  through vibration and chain action the oil somehow migrates past the o rings.
No. Once the oil can get past the O-rings the chain is toast. The automatic oiler keeps the O-rings clean and lubricated so they last longer.
My oiler is set to put a tiny drop of oil every 6.5mls, at 112 links that makes one drop of oil per link every 700mls. But that's on average, some links may get three drops others nothing. Now how often did you have to lubricate non O-ring chains, every 200mls?

I agree, but once you get enough wear for oil to get past the rings, the oiler would provide benefit as a constant cleaning oil flow, where with out it, you'd get accelerated bushing wear blow red dust ect, just a theory. If you rain ride a Non prestine oring, the rain will get into the chain and wear it out even faster, this is why I think the oilers may benefit, cause if water is gettign in, then that thin oil should be able too. IMO

I guess someone like me should run an oiler, thats known to be very hard on chains

But really, whether someone gets 10,000 mile or 30,000 mile , what is more important, is someone, who has had a certain average and is able to double Life, via what factors?  Thats where the real Game in improvement is going to come from


BUt to answer your question, once you yannk an oring, you have to spot lube every couple hundred miles, maybe you dont have to, but if you dont you'll see internal rust blowing out in short order.

It was a trick I used , with chains failing at 7 or 8,000 mile to atleast break 10,000 mile out of them.   Id have replaced that DID at 17,000 mile , but Ive squeaked an extra 5,000 mile out of it, which lowers my cose per mile, but yeah there is hassle involved for that gain.

Couple years a go I did a cost analisys, and the VFR was costing .33 cent per mile, just to maintain
#24
I'm running a DID VMX 530 with 110 links and it has lasted very well. It has substantially outperformed the original chain and the RK chain (don't know which one now) that I replaced the original with. This chain has hardly needed adjustment and I'm on the gas hard a lot. I'm going to replace it and my third set of sprockets this summer. I'm very happy with this chain. I lube it at the end of every long day's riding while the chain is still hot and once a week for my short jaunts around the Puget Sound.
#25
I am running a DID VM x ring as well and haven't had to adjust it once after installing it and that was a couple of years ago and several mutliday rides through Colorado.  I lube it several times a year and have been very impressed with its performance to date.   :fing02:
End of thread · 25 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 8 Jun 2012