Spark plugs..tip for installing.

This is probably already widely known but for those who've not learned this trick...

  When changing plugs on these Hondas with deeply recessed plugs and aluminum heads...getting the plug threads started properly can sometimes be a dicey operation.  Many times you might have a couple of extensions and a universal between you and the plug, making it really difficult to feel and to know that you have the threads started correctly.  Cross-threading a plug can be an expen$ive  mistake..

  A good way to start the plug and to give yourself some "feel" as you do is to use a short (3-4"?) section of air tool hose or even fuel line. The plug ceramic end is pushed into the hose, which acts as a 'handle' for the plug now.  You can bend the hose to insert the plug down the passage to the head, then 'twirl' the hose between two fingers, feeling how the plug threads are engaging.   The rubber of the hose makes twisting it easy, but if you get the threads started wrong, the hose will spin on the plug ceramic before you tear up the threads, and you can back off and re-start the plug properly...Once you get the plug's threads engaged correctly and you run it down as far as you can, then the air line (hose) just pulls out of the plug well and you can torque the plug down with your wrench...

  Hope some find this useful
  Don Hanson

good tip... thanks!

Great post. There's going to always be both ppl that know it, and the ones that don't. So it's going to help someone.

Removal>   Blow channel out with an aircompressor, break sparkplug loose half way up the threads, blow out channel again.  Then completey unscrew plug and remove, an extended magnet is very valuable.

Install>   Always start sparkplug  counterclockwise, it will drop down into the threads , less risk of cross threading than starting off clockwise. Many wonder how come their plug cam loose down the road. Its because a New gasket does not flully compress the first time you torque, so torque  and break the plug lose and retorque, then you'll have no risk of the plug coming lose down the road.

I just carefully let the Sparkplug slide down the channel, then with my deep socket and extension, I slide it over the sparkplug , which is much stouter than tubing, but I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat. My vfr is on its 3rd set of plugs. I find the plugs are good till about 40,000 mile, atleast with my Race leaded diet it keeps thenm super clean. I ran a set to over 50,000 miles, and those plugs where damn near disentigrated, yet the bike ran good, they where spotless clean too, no carbon even deep into the plug.

Thanks.  I'll be changing plugs in a couple of weeks.

OK OK  786. I can't resist. Give me some idea of this magnificent mixture that burns so clean. Many thanks.

Good tips, I'm thinking of changing mine at 63,000 miles.

[image: View Post]geoyachtsus, on 04 August 2012 - 10:06 AM, said:

OK OK  786. I can't resist. Give me some idea of this magnificent mixture that burns so clean. Many thanks.

1 cup of vp c12 pertank, doesnt necessarily burn clean, it eats any and all carbon from valves, to head, the cat to tail pipe. I bet if you stick your finger in your tail pipe, your finger will come out black spooge, to (get RID of) requires VPc12.

Quote

I bet if you stick your finger in your tail pipe, your finger will come out black spooge,

:laughing6-hehe: