VFRness Q??

My 02 has had the wiring recall.  Is the VFRness still needed?  If so, where do I purchase one?  Sorry if this Q has been asked 1k times before.  Typical newbee!

Hi
Welcome. The vfrness is the best insurance-which does not guarantee 100% you won't have problems-against electrical troubles.
wiremybike.com
C

My '02 VFR started electrical issues around 50k miles in 2007.  Replaced alternator, rectifier, battery, and had wiring recall done.  A year later the 30 amp fuse started heating up, replaced with automotive 30 amp ATO ATC fuse holder, problem fixed.

Last year the at 80k miles the alternator connector melted, replaced with
http://www.wiremybik...products_id=693 , problem fixed.

I just replaced my 88k mile '02 with a 15k mile '02.  From what I experienced with my last bike what I plan on doing is replacing the weak points of the last bike, the 30 amp fuse holder, and the alternator connector before there is a problem.

VFRness will fix the fuse holder issue.  http://www.wiremybik...22e90ecd1132bd3
I don't plan on using it.  I am a do it myself kind of guy.  It looks good.  I would like to hear what others think of it.

^^^^^^^   --- I'm kinda at ---   -- Props to tightwad and wiremybike. If your a plug a play guy, tightwad is your guy.

-   But if your fairly handy, and dont mind wiring there are other levels of fixes. I am convinced that the Compufire R/R is the best technical solution to the the overall problem. Being a series type R/R, first the stator is only switched on when there is demand from the bike. The stator will last longer because it is not on full time like a shunt type R/R. A side benefit is the bike will run cooler. The bike doesnt heat up as fast to the 200+ degree mark as it did with the OEM shunt style R/R sitting at idle. And then, the part itself doesnt get hot at all, its just warm to the touch, vs the OEM part I couldnt hold my hand to it for more than a second, it was hot. --- What helped sell me to do this is that the more savy and technically quallified guys (EEs) on this forum went that way.  And I researched it to death.  - For the wiring work, the pos and neg lead are wired direct to the battery and the harness plug is sealed. No VFNess is needed. IMHO, if you plan to keep the bike "forever" this is the way to go.  - The only gotcha to be upfront about it is that this was designed to be a Harley part and Compufire will not warrantee the part if it is installed on anything but a Harley. ---- Check thread for info.
http://www.vfrdiscus...334#entry813334
Also, the install can get a little spendy - quick costs, $175 for R/R, $25 for connectors, $30 for misc wire supplys, and I didnt have a crimp tool - 80 bucks for that. dammit. And there is probly 40 bucks of little hits here and there. - But I'm done. Slam dunk fix, no worries.

Part 2 is that if you dont want the Compufire part,  get a MOSFET R/R and again wire direct to the battery. Pos side is fused. (Tightwad has this or there are other kits on the market) --- (Some people say R1, Well watch it, the earlier parts were old style shunt design. Newer are FH0012AA) And again, no VFRness is needed in the circuit. I know there is a very good example install thread here but I cant find it.

Also a general note is for connectors to the stator, Delphi Packard MetriPack connectors is the best way to go, or wire direct.  I used MetriPack 280s.

Cheers and Beers

Thanks for the info.  Looks like I have some details to dial in.  Put 345 mi on it today, it sure gets hot at red lights in 90 deg temps.  I had hoped to get away from that by selling the RC.