Compufire 5th gen install wrap up -
-- reference the previous thread(s)
A 5th gen Compufire R/R adventure
Just Installed a compufire series regulator
For background and pics on hows and whys, pros & cons on this - to start -check the "adventure" thread. -The "Just installed" thread would be good too.
Since this ended up pic heavy I thought I would do a separate wrap up thread for the install. M’be it would help for other gens……
--- As per the normal hazard of being a geek foole, I research the hooey outta things and it takes 4x longer than expected. Finally, I got this frickn thing done.
So, here's the stuff.. :rolleyes: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Didn’t like the stock included Weather Pack 20 amp connectors, so I dumped it and bumped it up to a Metri-Pack 280 rated at 30 amps. It looks ok, but if I ever do a stator, I’m bumping that to a Metri-Pack 630 set.
Connector stocker (green) and up grade (orange) [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
The mount holes on the OEM R/R is 80mm and the CF is 3.25 inch or 82.55, so a little work with a rat tail file and the sub-frame plate is good to go. Also the slots on the alum “heat” plate need to be opened up on one end, tin snips make quick work.
Sub Frame mount and Alum heatplate [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
I liked the fuse holder with 8 gauge wire from my VFRness better than the included one from CF and set that one aside. I crimped a butt connector for the pos lead to the fuse holder and added heavy duty crimp ring terminals for battery connection. Used some 1 “ shrink wrap to tie it together. (Both the pos and neg leads are like 3 feet and need to be cut down)
Vfrness fuse box - 8 gauge wire
[image: Posted Image]
R/R rewire rework before bike install - HD battery ring terminals used [image: Posted Image]
A goofy detail, since I was going straight to the battery, I wanted to seal up the stocker power plug for the OEM R/R. I stole the mating connector from the VFRness and had some fun with liquid tape on both connectors and then hit it with more 1 inch heat shrink. No water is going there…
[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
The stator wires on the CF R/R are short. I fooled around with a few positions on the mounting position to bring the wires closer so that the R/R wires and the stator leads could connect up, but was hitting body work. So, screw it, back to stock mount and adding extensions to the stator wires.
Stator wire extensions – metri pack crimp terminals and seals, connector assembled. [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
I’m fairly anal about neat and sano routing of parts where I can be on wires, brake lines, etc. So I used copious amounts of shrink tubing, split loom, electric tape, zip ties, and stick down posts wherever it could benefit. I like to try to make it look factory.
Positive lead with split loom added
[image: Posted Image]
Ready to button up [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
Underseat with negative lead to battery and stick downs for wire route [image: Posted Image]
Hey – it works just like its supposed to -- – 14.0 at idle at the voltmeter
[image: Posted Image]
I’m getting 14.1 at the battery direct with a multi-meter at idle, 14.33 at 5000 rpm, 14.33 at 9500 rpm, held steady for about 10 seconds, and 14.33 volts with several bumps to red line. Cool.. :cool: -
--- Jeez it's kinda cold to ride....----------
------Next project – fool around to upgrade the heat shielding. (Imagine a conversation among the Honda engineers – “Hey where can we put the wiring, and fuses, and other stuff so it just cooks it for an early failure? Oh, I know! Let’s put it right by the rear headers!” --- Gawd - terrible.)
-- reference the previous thread(s)
A 5th gen Compufire R/R adventure
Just Installed a compufire series regulator
For background and pics on hows and whys, pros & cons on this - to start -check the "adventure" thread. -The "Just installed" thread would be good too.
Since this ended up pic heavy I thought I would do a separate wrap up thread for the install. M’be it would help for other gens……
--- As per the normal hazard of being a geek foole, I research the hooey outta things and it takes 4x longer than expected. Finally, I got this frickn thing done.
So, here's the stuff.. :rolleyes: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Didn’t like the stock included Weather Pack 20 amp connectors, so I dumped it and bumped it up to a Metri-Pack 280 rated at 30 amps. It looks ok, but if I ever do a stator, I’m bumping that to a Metri-Pack 630 set.
Connector stocker (green) and up grade (orange) [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
The mount holes on the OEM R/R is 80mm and the CF is 3.25 inch or 82.55, so a little work with a rat tail file and the sub-frame plate is good to go. Also the slots on the alum “heat” plate need to be opened up on one end, tin snips make quick work.
Sub Frame mount and Alum heatplate [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
I liked the fuse holder with 8 gauge wire from my VFRness better than the included one from CF and set that one aside. I crimped a butt connector for the pos lead to the fuse holder and added heavy duty crimp ring terminals for battery connection. Used some 1 “ shrink wrap to tie it together. (Both the pos and neg leads are like 3 feet and need to be cut down)
Vfrness fuse box - 8 gauge wire
[image: Posted Image]
R/R rewire rework before bike install - HD battery ring terminals used [image: Posted Image]
A goofy detail, since I was going straight to the battery, I wanted to seal up the stocker power plug for the OEM R/R. I stole the mating connector from the VFRness and had some fun with liquid tape on both connectors and then hit it with more 1 inch heat shrink. No water is going there…
[image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
The stator wires on the CF R/R are short. I fooled around with a few positions on the mounting position to bring the wires closer so that the R/R wires and the stator leads could connect up, but was hitting body work. So, screw it, back to stock mount and adding extensions to the stator wires.
Stator wire extensions – metri pack crimp terminals and seals, connector assembled. [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
I’m fairly anal about neat and sano routing of parts where I can be on wires, brake lines, etc. So I used copious amounts of shrink tubing, split loom, electric tape, zip ties, and stick down posts wherever it could benefit. I like to try to make it look factory.
Positive lead with split loom added
[image: Posted Image]
Ready to button up [image: Posted Image] [image: Posted Image]
Underseat with negative lead to battery and stick downs for wire route [image: Posted Image]
Hey – it works just like its supposed to -- – 14.0 at idle at the voltmeter
[image: Posted Image]
I’m getting 14.1 at the battery direct with a multi-meter at idle, 14.33 at 5000 rpm, 14.33 at 9500 rpm, held steady for about 10 seconds, and 14.33 volts with several bumps to red line. Cool.. :cool: -
--- Jeez it's kinda cold to ride....----------
------Next project – fool around to upgrade the heat shielding. (Imagine a conversation among the Honda engineers – “Hey where can we put the wiring, and fuses, and other stuff so it just cooks it for an early failure? Oh, I know! Let’s put it right by the rear headers!” --- Gawd - terrible.)