Quickie, no, not so much. I have switched mine out for the BOLT variety and modified the fairing holes accordingly cause they fit quit a bit tighter. If you have compressed air at your disposal, blowing some of the crap outta those lil clips first helps removal too.
Frank, keep a close eye on that K&N, I don't know if they've fixed, or even addressed, the spot weld leakage issue yet. Several that I know of have popped in the last year, not to mention all the ones out there that I haven't heared of.
Nice overall writeup. I would only add a couple of things. It's always good to warm the bike up a little to warm the oil so it drains easier. I also like to take a sheet of aluminum foil and slid it over the tops of the headers so they don't get oily when you remove the oil filter. I'm not sure I would trust those K&N filters after a couple of horror stories I've heard about them.
+1 on the aluminum foil. It saves a lot of mess. I went back to Honda filters after having a K&N leak for no apparent reason. The nut was sure convenient though.
Nice write-up, but I have to say I couldn't disagree more with your assessment of the 6th gen plastic body pins. Once you know how to use them they beat any of the screw types for ease of use and reuse.
Nice write-up, but I have to say I couldn't disagree more with your assessment of the 6th gen plastic body pins. Once you know how to use them they beat any of the screw types for ease of use and reuse.
Agreed!!!
Use a golf tee to push-in (release) those 6th gen plastic body pins. So quick and easy.
I've always applied a thin coat of oil on the o-ring and then tightened the filter by hand, noithing more. It's more then enough and makes removing it less of a pain.
Nice overall writeup. I would only add a couple of things. It's always good to warm the bike up a little to warm the oil so it drains easier. I also like to take a sheet of aluminum foil and slid it over the tops of the headers so they don't get oily when you remove the oil filter. I'm not sure I would trust those K&N filters after a couple of horror stories I've heard about them.
Rollin
Good points. I did get a lot of oil spilled on the headers when removing the filter.
Thanks for the warning about the K&N filter. I hope this one holds until the next oil change.
I can attest to the issues with K&N spot welds. I have had exactly two K&N filters on a VFR and both of them had issues. To be fair the second one only had a small drip, but the experience last year that involved a tow truck has them very low on my list of preferred filters. I don't like to see my bike bleeding.
I have come round on the plastic clips. When you know how to release them they do the job beautifully. I did not know how to release them at first and broke a couple learning. Now, all good. My bitch about them is the price. I found some at NAPA that fit the holes but use a phillips head style core to open and close, but, they are drag to get out. How do Zip ties work as substitutes?
I use some Gm press in plugs, kinda of the same idea, but they simply push in and push out, no complicated fidding, I got them at autozone
#961-075 they work Great ,espeically in an area not really seen, they do get alittle cranky with dirt and mud on them. But Ive never had to change them out from wear.
+1 on the K&N, I had one start leaking in the middle of a 6200km road trip last week (filter had been on for 5800km, installed it during pre-winterization oil change in Dec 2011). Not bad enough that I couldn't drive 200km to the dealer for a fix, but sprayed oil all over my hard bags and my riding buddy's bike. Mechanic told me it was leaking out the "top" ie where the spot welds are. Back to Honda filters for me!
Walter
Olive
I can attest to the issues with K&N spot welds. I have had exactly two K&N filters on a VFR and both of them had issues. To be fair the second one only had a small drip, but the experience last year that involved a tow truck has them very low on my list of preferred filters. I don't like to see my bike bleeding.
That's crazy about the K&N filter. It's all I've used on my bike since I bought it in '07, never a problem, SO much easier to remove and install. I'd never use anything else.
+1 about those plastic pins though, I''ve never figured those things out. I opt for real screws or zipties.
I've always applied a thin coat of oil on the o-ring and then tightened the filter by hand, noithing more. It's more then enough and makes removing it less of a pain.
This. If you are using a wrench to tighten an oil filter, "you're doing it wrong."
WIX filters seem to be good, SuperTech at WalMart were good, but apparently not available anymore, Mobil 1 good but too expensive, Purolator Pure One is good but awful yellow color, Bosh & Champion are also viable alternatives. I usually use the "longer" filter that just clears the header pipes, figuring I get more surface area of filter media so it might filter better longer.
One of the best tips I ever got was to loosen the fiter with the bike COLD, then warm up to operatng temp before draining and removing filter. Prevents burnt knuckles. Also I have used the METAL oil filter wrench that looks like a huge socket with great success...don't use the cheap plastic ones, they don't work. +1 (everybody knows) to lube rubber seal of filter with oil before spinning on and hand tight + 1/4 turn (YMMV). Inspect crush washer and use your torque wrench on the drain plug (29 N-m). I keep a stock of crush washers so they are easy to replace if needed.
Great tip about the foil! I also slightly loosened the filter when the engine was cold, prior to warming up the engine, made it so much easier. I've bought a K&N filter prior to reading this thread so I"m really hoping it doesn't leak. I suppose the trick is to tighten by hand and only use the spanner when removing. :smile:
The problem I have with k&n, they cost as much as oem, thats not worth the money for an aftermarket equivilant, I have no use for the nut on the filter either, so Id rather buy oem or the half price puralator motorcycle filter at pep boys.
Luckily they have a Cult like following to stay in business with their oil filters and dirt sucking airfiliters.
I used a Bosch 3323 Distance Plus from Walmart with Rotella T oil. Not cheap and a tight fit but it's filter specs are about the best you can get. I plan on leaving it on next oil change as it's supposed to hold much more crud than a regular filter. And if you're near a Sam's Club, they have a couple of different case packs of Rotella T oil for about $12 and change a gallon which is really good. I plan on picking some up.
[image: View Post]dalesvfr, on 03 November 2012 - 09:51 AM, said:
I used a Bosch 3323 Distance Plus from Walmart with Rotella T oil. Not cheap and a tight fit but it's filter specs are about the best you can get. I plan on leaving it on next oil change as it's supposed to hold much more crud than a regular filter. And if you're near a Sam's Club, they have a couple of different case packs of Rotella T oil for about $12 and change a gallon which is really good. I plan on picking some up.
Of course Rotella T is not the same as the fully synthetic T6 that I like to use, but a good bargain. Walmart has it for $12.97 a gallon, so Sam's membership not required for the same deal...
Yeah, you're correct in that it's the T6 I purchased at Walmart. And I just checked the Sam's website, it's only the T they carry in case packs. I don't know when you bought it but it's $21 and change in the jug at Walmart.
[image: View Post]dalesvfr, on 04 November 2012 - 12:06 PM, said:
Yeah, you're correct in that it's the T6 I purchased at Walmart. And I just checked the Sam's website, it's only the T they carry in case packs. I don't know when you bought it but it's $21 and change in the jug at Walmart.
No, what I meant was that Walmart has the T for $12.97, not the T6
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