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Chain lubing procedure?

14 posts Started 16 Aug 2012 Last recovered post 17 Aug 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 2 Dec 2021

#1

My chain lubing is done on the centerstand after a ride while the chain is warm.

It is done in three steps.

1. Spray the inside 'O' rings and side plates

2. Spray the outside 'O' rings and side plates

3. Spray the inside rollers on the bottom run

A good friend with many years of experience just does step number 3. He feels the lube is going to get to the 'O' Rings by migration and centrifigal force without all my messing around with the inside/outside lubing.

Am I making it more work than is necessary?

#2

I remove the rear tire, swingar, radiators and headlight assembly then generously spray lube all over myself then wrap the chain around my glistening body whilst singing inspiring songs of our forefathers.

....or if I'm in a hurry clean the chain with a grunge brush and some mineral spirits, dry with a CLEAN cloth then use Dupont Dry Lube "Chain Saver" about every 500 miles.

Edited August 16, 2012 by PorradaVFR
#3

Yeah, probably. One thing I have learned through decades of riding and several motorcycles is that it is very easy to over-lube the chain. Most of us (me included) just put way too much on there.

Regardless of how much you put on, one key to long chain - and sprocket - life is to make sure you WIPE OFF the excess - aggressively. Otherwise you just collect dirt and debris, generating a nice grinding paste.

Recently I've gone for elegant and simple - I just carry a small dropper bottle of 90 wt gear lube. a drop or two on each link, and wipe the excess off. Very tidy, actually.

#4

Number 3 ... then wipe it down with down with WD-40 on a rag.

#5

#1 & 2 are pretty much to keep the links from rusting, but if just do #3 and wipe the extra off it'll be plenty

#6
PorradaVFR

I remove the rear tire, swingar, radiators and headlight assembly then generously spray lube all over myself then wrap the chain around my glistening body whilst singing inspiring songs of our forefathers.

....or if I'm in a hurry clean the chain with a grunge brush and some mineral spirits, dry with a CLEAN cloth then use Dupont Dry Lube "Chain Saver" about every 500 miles.

Awwww....No 10 minute hula hoop dance with the chain spinning against your greased up belly?? And what does one do when it all gets tangled up with body hair in sensitive areas??

Edited August 16, 2012 by Beck
#7

Only do # 3, the previous steaps are overkill.

Or just fit a scottoiler and dont worry about it anymore

#8
AB-Oz

Or just fit a scottoiler and dont worry about it anymore

Do you have a scottoiler and if so which model? Did you install it yourself?

#9
Asphalt_Pilot

Yeah, probably. One thing I have learned through decades of riding and several motorcycles is that it is very easy to over-lube the chain. Most of us (me included) just put way too much on there.

Regardless of how much you put on, one key to long chain - and sprocket - life is to make sure you WIPE OFF the excess - aggressively. Otherwise you just collect dirt and debris, generating a nice grinding paste.

Recently I've gone for elegant and simple - I just carry a small dropper bottle of 90 wt gear lube. a drop or two on each link, and wipe the excess off. Very tidy, actually.

I can't imagine taking the time to put a drop of lube on each link.(Seems like it would need to be each roller, not each link) Doesn't the stock chain have something like 110 links?
#10
PorradaVFR

I remove the rear tire, swingar, radiators and headlight assembly then generously spray lube all over myself then wrap the chain around my glistening body whilst singing inspiring songs of our forefathers.

:unclesam: :laughing6-hehe: Crap, I've been doing it wrong all these years, I'mma go lube up my "chain" now.........................

#11
njcop

Do you have a scottoiler and if so which model? Did you install it yourself?

I do have a scottoiler the vSystem. This is the one: http://www.scottoile...lypage.tpl.html

Theres an install guide on the page. Its very easy to install.

#12

I installed the Scottoiler ESystem. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/71970-installing-scottoiler-esystem-on-my-5th-gen/ I just love it.

The major downside to the original Scottoiler is that the oil flows from the reservoir through a valve by gravity. When temperature changes the viscosity of the oil changes and thereby the dosing changes. Adjusting the dose is easy, but i had the reservoir under the seat, and i just didn't get to adjust it.

Not so with the ESystem. 1 drop per timespan. The time can be set in steps between 20sec and 150sec. It is very easy to adjust the dose if you ride in rain and back to dry condition.

Now I just fill the reservoir when the display tells me the reservoir is 25% full. The chain is always perfectly lubed and almost clean.

My installation is some time consuming, using the bracket Scottoiler supplies makes it an "about 1 hour job". What takes most time is figuring out where to run the oil tubing.

#13

when dealing with a Non oring, your 3 prong method is good, But a total waste of time on an oring, cause it doesnt need all those areas throughly saturated.

With a non oring you have to ensure lube enters the chain internally, all you need is sprocket metal to metal( contact film) with an anodised oring.

Edited August 17, 2012 by spud786
#14

Thanks for all the replies!

Since I'm one that really likes easy, this is good news for me. :smile:

From now on, I'll try the #3 only method.

Just spray the lube on the inside/top of the lower run of chain while still warm from a ride.

Let it set for a few minutes, wipe off the excess using a rag on the outside/bottom of the lower run of chain and call it good.

Off topic, but not much.

Is there a way to tell if a chain is the original chain or if it has been replaced? Rivets different on the master link or anything like that.

It is an RK chain.

End of thread · 14 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 2 Dec 2021