1985 VF750F - never ending evolution

I thought I had a thread on the forum, but I guess I only had one on VFRW.

Time to correct that. I'll just copy the first bits from 3 years ago (started 2009, but have had the bike since 2000 or so), so here goes:

Just joined up, here's my Canadian 1985 vf750f also, albeit a little "modified";

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I've been working on my 750 for the better part of 10 years now. I spend most of my time on the Yahoo "interceptors" list.

Here's a little "rundown" on my old girl if you're interested;

-1985 vf750f (Canadian model)

-29,000 kms. I found it low mileage many moons back. Bought it because I had a new one in high school (first year, 1983) and have been tinkering with it ever since.

-CBR600F2 front and rear wheels. I stripped them down and painted/polished them to look like the original VF750F wheels. Machined my own spacers, speedo gear and rear drive hub.

-Rear CBRF2 brakes

-front F2 brake rotors

-Stainless steel lines, front and rear

-tossed in a lower temp fan switch (from a Honda Accord IIRC)

-VF1000R oil pump for the increased pressure/flow. It's reputed to be an 18% increase over the stock VF750F unit. I've always had a bit of "trepidation" about tapping the main gallery and pulling off pressure from the mains with the oil modification kits available.This seems a better option to me...

-homemade fender eliminator. I kept the rear frame rails and stock indicators for more of the "original" look. I also use the rails to assist me when "pedaling" the bike backwards (one arm behind and pulling up on the tail makes it easier)

-powder coated frame in original silver (done a full frame off also, just the plastic is waiting for paint)

-VF1000f front forks (I welded up the air balance holes also). 41mm tubes vice the stock vf750f 38mm.

-CBR600F2 rear shock (resprung, revalved). Machined my own adapters for the lower mount.

-Rebuilt stock exhaust with NOS cans from Honda. That was pretty expensive but worth it for the stock appearance...

- center stand is gone. It doesn't reach the ground any more anyways because of the change in suspension heights....

Plans in the shop;

- Hindle 4 into 1 that's currently undergoing R&R, or I may use it as a template. It's pretty beat up...

- Aluminum can for the Hindle. Currently sitting on the shelf.

-VF1000F side covers

- Body work repaint. I have a complete set of NOS Honda stripes and stickers that are going on her when ready. I've got a very good parts guy who hunted them all down for me :). I'm toying with the idea of painting the plastics Corvette "atomic orange", bu tit will be done on separate plastics so I can pop the red/white/blue (classic interceptor) back on when I want.

- plan on installing the gold emulators in the VF1000f forks as you did, but time and money is making that a little difficult right now...

-I have a 2005 CBR600RR shock on the way. Going to see if it can be made to work...

Well, that's about it for the old girl.

Cheers

[image: quote_icon.png] Originally Posted by 84VF1000F [image: viewpost-right.png]

Very nice bike! Just wondering about your fender modification - where is the license plate light?

The taillight itself provides the light, only thing is, it's red.

I'm currently working on a spare tail light and replacing a small strip at the bottom with a bit of clear plexi. Not much, about 1/8" wide, but enough to spread some white light on the plate.

If you look closely in this pic, you can see the small bottom area of the light that will be modified:

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Here's the bracket I fabbed up if you're interested:

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It extends up under the ducktail and bolts the rear most tabs on the frame rails themselves (where the OE fender bolts). I can't stand it when a bike goes by and the plate is flopping around because the guy cut the fender off and jimmied it into nothing but the plastic filler piece. Like everything else, it needs a proper mount of some sort.

I also cut down the OE fender more than most do. All that's really left is a small piece of trim for the underside of the ducktail. I go on a bit of a weight reduction kick now and then and I figured I could pretty much ditch the entire thing up to the inner fender. Worked out just fine...

I'm thinking the fuel pump is coming out next. I know some have removed it with no ill effects, but I'll have to do a little experimenting for myself before I'm satisfied it can go for good....

[image: quote_icon.png] Originally Posted by cebuVFR [image: viewpost-right.png]

SWEET! looks very well maintained for her age!

Actually, it was pretty neglected when I got it, other than low KM's. Rusted, broken items and it had been thrown down the road once or twice.

Pretty common for a once "superbike" turned into a squid's first ride by the ravages of time and depreciation....

It's had a complete "frame off rework". I bought it because it was complete, original and ran well. even if it was somewhat "distressed".

It had obviously spent several winters outdoors before I got it. The tank was even rusted through in a few spots. I stripped it out, acid wased it and then silver soldiered the holes shut (luckily, they weer only pin hiles after acid washing). A coat of Kreem (yeah, I know lots of people don't like it, but it's never given me any trouble) and she was good to go.

Luckily, other than cleaning and rebuilding the carbs, I haven't had to get into the engine.

Only thing I haven't gotten to yet is the body work.

I really love the old 80's superbikes. I'd have a whole stable of them if time, space and finances allowed. Most of them met with an early and untimely death at the hands of inexperienced riders and poseurs of the time. The endless march forward in bike performance has relegated the rest to junker status.

Pretty soon, they'll be collectible because there just won't be any left.....

Yup, I did a dumb thing again....

Saw a set of 05 rc51 front brake calipers on ebay for 49 bucks. Figured I'd mess around a bit and throw a 50 dollar bid on them. No way I'd win it for a buck over the current bid, right?

Wrong.

50 bucks and they're on their way. Rats.

Now I'm going to end up trying to figure out a way to get them on my vf1000f forks and CBR rotors.

I may end up buying some floating rotors and adapting them to the cbr wheels.

Seems I just never learn.........

Umm, I did it again (the wifes gonna kill me)......

[image: BTRQijwB2kKGrHgoH-DcEkJw1zHMKBKHimY.jpg]

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Found an ebay auction that was not being watched or something, because I got all this for 60 bucks (well, plus shipping that is).

Your bidding on brake system off a 2000 RVT1000R. These parts are off a crashed bike that I bought. They have been stored in my garage for the past year and looking to sell asap. These parts appear to be in working condition. What you see is what you get. If you have any questions I'll try to answer as best as possible.

Might be a common price for you boys down south, but that's darn near impossible to find "up north"... assuming you can find a wrecked RVT1000R at all...

I was looking to find a MC so the piston ratio's matched on the calipers I bought, now I've got everything i could need to proceed (except the bike dambit)....

[image: happy.gif]

Lots of raw material there to carry on with my brake swap on the ol' 'ceptor! I've got about a dozen bracket and disc mounting ideas swirling around in my head now.....

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Well, off to bed to dream of better brakes!

So, a little research turns up that the CBR600F2 rotors I'm currently using are 276mm and the SP1 rotors on the way are 320mm.

I also have a complete SP2 master cyl on the way (right down to the lever).

Why?

More progressive brakes.

A little googling reveals the SP2 MC piston is 17mm instead of the SP1 19 mm piston.

All reports on the SP1 vs SP2 brakes is the lever pull is much more progressive with better feedback as a result of the diameter change.

Before anyone asks, I have a set of SP2 calipers from the same year as the master cyl (2003) sitting on the shelf in the garage........;-)

Should be a nice upgrade if I can build the carriers to work properly.

My initial thought is to turn down a set of VF rotors to just the carrier, chuck the SP rotors up in the lathe a turn the center of the carriers out, then off to the TIG machine at work to mate the two.

I need to get all the stuff here first though, it may not work at all....

Hmmm, now how am I going to mount those pesky calipers.......

A quick thumb through some of my photo's and a couple requests to "a couple guys who know a couple guys" and this popped up:

[image: frwheel1.jpg]

It's rough (like all race bike parts) but it's proof of concept.

A plan is forming...

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Now, I need to find a blue an -4 "Y" fitting like the superbike.....

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Anyone have a lead on one?

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Here's an idea of where I'm planning to go with the sp1 rotors and the F2 wheel:

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Those are from an R6, but you get the idea....;)

Dang it!

Now I'm thinking about a double R swingarm. Anyone tried it before?

It just never stops...

*edit*

Oopps, spoke too soon. Finances have just dictated that the brake and shock upgrade attempt will be the end of it for a while.

Gotta go into heavy saving mode for a down payment on a second house.

Don't ask.......

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My 2003 Master cyl showed up today.

[image: BR5752kKGrHgoOKjYEjlLmYLs0BJ94fOjWW.jpg]

Very nice unit, I especially like the adjustable reach on the lever...

That alone will make the swap worthwhile!

The fitting from the Master Cyl to the reservoir is busted though. I knew this when I ordered it (got it cheap $$).

[image: BR5-PCGkKGrHgoOKjcEjlLmPeBJ94fdIBQ_.jpg]

I've got another complete brake system (as listed above) for parts. I'll just swap out the fitting form the 2000 Master cyl that's coming with the rest.

Still worth it for the better brakes from the SP2.

Now I have to decide if I'm going to paint it black like the clutch lever or strip the clutch lever to bare Al.....

Just got back from a two week work "junket".

Couple items showed up while I was gone, my complete front and rear SP1 brake system and my new ignition barrel (my wife put my only ignition key somewhere and we can't find it).

Unfortunately, finances have dictated I put the project on hold for the moment (besides what I can do in the garage with what I already have).

As I mentioned, we're saving the downpayment on a second home.....

However, the package came witht eh kill switch for the SP1 still attached to the wiring harness. It's a nice trim little thing. Anyone know if the SP1/SP2 thottle is a push pull like the VF's? MIght make a nicve little upgrade to the look of the bar mounted items.

Jebus, the wife is really gonna kill me.....what the heck is wrong with me?

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Got some replacement plastics on the way, just have to source a few more pieces and I can paint hte bike the Corvette atomic orage I want.

Here's a rough idea (borrowed and modified pics):

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[image: 2004_10_16_bikepics-229040-full.jpg]

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Of course, my stock 85 white, blue and red stuff won't be touched. It's going into storage, so changing back will be a simple matter of a couple bolts and screws.

I'll be working on some SP2 switchgear also:

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After I get the SP2 brakes on to her that is....

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So, that brings us up to date (2012) and the recent posts:

Wow, has i really been 3 years?

Well, I had to move some stuff around in the garage the other day for some electricians to run a 30A plug for our camper trailer.

Pulled the boat out of the way and there's my old 'ceptor slumbering in the corner under it's cover where it's been since we moved into the new house last year.

I stopped riding it because my body just couldn't take it for much more than 10-15 minutes at a time (I'm 47 and busted up 6 ways to sunday).

I pulled the cover off and looked at my old riding partner.

Dusty, half done, forgotten and forlorn.

Hmm, wonder if it will start?

Nope. dead as the proverbial door nail.

I jump it off the car, it whirls over but: nada.

Crack the carb drains. Yep, I left fuel in the bowls. It's coming out green. And I'm not exaggerating, it's actually bright St Patrick's day green!

Then rig up my temporary fuel talk and fill the bowls.

Whir, whir, whir, whir, whir..........varoom!

It catches, tries to run, popps a bit of flame from the pipes, smokes like an SOB and then quits after a valiant attempt to idle.

Yup, carbs are probably gummed beyond belief and the spark plugs are black and wet when I pull them. You can smell the fouled gas for miles.

I sit down and stare at my once proud steed.

What to do?

Sell it?

Scrap it?

Shove it back into the corner and forget it for another 3 years?

Nah, can't do it.

So, tomorrow I'm headed down to the store to pick up 4 plugs and a new battery.

then over to my friends house to get my bike lift back.

I'm thinking that this winter I'll resurrect the old girl, ride it next summer (at least back and forth to work which is a short jaunt) and see if the magic is still there.

This winter will see a new paint job (not original but faithful in spirit of the 83-85 scheme, I've got a few ideas) and a continuation of the projects that were underway and never finished.

I hope the magic is still there.........I can only hope.......:)

Today I pull the old girl out into the driveway and get read to throw fresh sparks and a new battery in it.

Pop off the seat and......Grrrrrrrr! Mouse house!

So the little bugger had found his way in somewhere in the past, dragged all kinds of fluff and crap up there and proceeded to munch away on the ignitior box wiring.

Of all things, why the ignitor boxes! Those a darned near impossible to replace....

Out comes the tools and garden hose. I start by blasting the little SOB's bedding out of the tool kit box. Oh for the luva.....mouse pee and crap has corroded the bolts.

I'll spare you the multiple explicatives that went on for a while and get to the wiring. Turns out, he had just munched on the tail light wiring. Stripped a bit of insulation and left it alone. Easily fixed.

The battery slots right in.

Next are the sparks. Yup, I'd forgotten they can be a pain all on their own. Well, slow and steady get them swapped out.

Ah yes, how convenient memory is....

I was then re-introduced to the joy that is working on a V4 and carbs.

A quick memory jog and I remember what a true PITA they are!

I'll spare the gory details that we all know so well an start at the point of carbs on the bench.

Yup, showing the years of neglect. Dull and cruddy on the outside, rust pocks starting on the diaphragm covers.

Flip 'em over and drain the fresh fuel from yesterday. Spin the bowls off and....holy mutha! It's green!

Near as I can figure, the fuel left in the bowls turned into something akin to diesel and algea started growing in it.

That's a first for me.....

carb cleaner, brake cleaner, spray 9 and simple green get the bowls, the jets, carb circuits and float needles/seats cleaned up and ready to go.

Some of the jets and circuits were so badly blocked (algae) that I had to resort to an old trick to clear them enough for the chemicals to do their thing. I pull a couple lengths of different gauge stranded copper wire off the shelf and strip 'em. I pull one strand out of each bundle. this becomes my "chase" for the jets. Since the copper is softer than the brass jets, it's relatively safe to run them though. i select a gauge based on one carb that has an open jet and then start working the rest until the hole is clear. The carb soak does the rest.

So that's where they sit; on the bench and soaking to get the last bit of crud out.

No wonder it ran like crap.

Tomorrow, I get to be reacquainted with the wonderful task that is getting the bloody carbs back into the bloody intake boots.

The more I think about it, the more "megasquirt" becomes a very attractive word.....

Well, got called out a 0200 to search for a fellow that fell off a sailboat the day before around 1200.

Well, we found him 20 hours later and he did not survive.

So i got home around 1700 and fell asleep since that was the first sleep I'd had since the night before.

After a couple hours I wake up and feel the need to accomplish something positive. I head out to the garage and pull the bits out of the cleaner. Then I blow them all clean and start rebuilding the carbs. 20 mins later they're ready to got on.

After a suitable amount of struggling and forcing the carbs are in the boots.

Looking for something positive, I pop on the temp fuel tank I use for balancing and gravity fill the bowls.

two turns and it catches.

Ticking over smooth and clean with a fair bit of smoke from the pipes. I swap the tank over to the fuel pump inlet while it warms up.

Once on the pump pressure, it runs very nicely. Carbs aren't even balanced and it's ideling great. Probably better than it ever has and that's saying something as I used to had it in top fighting trim.

Warmed up it stops smoking and the idle is super smooth.

Not bad for about an hour and a half of work.

After a good night sleep I'll clean up the rest of the carb install and maybe get on to some other things that need attention....

Slept in late this am, needed it after yesterday's mission and my iphone getting roached.

Had a nice brunch and then out to the garage.

Started buttoning things back up on the bike and fitting body parts so I can shape/fit the VF1000F side covers I've had on the shelf waiting to be installed these last 3 years.

Bike starts right up on 2nd tick over from dead cold. I should have gotten aggressive with the carbs years ago since it's never been this well mannered.

I let it run and warm up as I tinker away.

I notice my leg is getting "spit on" and check the pipes. Yup, rust hole on the LH underside. The muffler I didn't replace when I bought a new one for the other side 4-5 years ago has rotted through.

Well, that settles it; the factory system comes off and goes up in the rafters this winter. The Hindle 4/1 comes down, gets refurbished and will be fitted up. I've got a stock GSXR aluminum muff that will get installed. A bit of high mounting will happen since the bike will only ever carry one person. I sure would like to build that vf750F superbike replica exhaust I've been wanting, but time and personal finances are set against me for that. Passenger pegs will be coming off and I'll fab up some custom rear sets fabbed. Probably chuck on the SP1 rear caliper and master while I'm at it...

As it idles, I note the headlight is off. Fuse is popped. No big.

Then the neutral light is gone and no tach.

What?

With no spare glass fuses around, I pull a single strand of copper from a piece of 12 gauge and touch the contacts. Yup, neutral light comes on and tach springs to life. Need a fuse......

Then I see a whisp of smoke!

Jeebus!

Quick flick the key off and start searching for the offender.

It's down near the regulator so I get in close for a look.

And there it is; my startor connector is now a blob of semi liquid plastic.

Mumble, mumble, mumble.........bit by the high resistance connector problem like so many before.....

For now, I'll solder the stator field wires together and make sure there's no other problems. I've already metered the stator winding and they check out good with the OEM service manual. Next to check the regulator.

This winter I think I'll grab the 100ft spool of 12 gauge wire and go at the bike, replacing all the lower gauge wiring that had to be a Honda weight and cost cutting measure.

Metripack connectors will be used everywhere.

I also think I'll ditch the resistive style regulator for a mosfet F011 type reg to increase reliability and shed some of that heat build up.

I've always liked Honda products; well built and reliable. But there's no saying you can't make a good thing better......;)

Change of plans I think.....going back to a concept I was working on 3 years ago:

[image: 2004_10_16_bikepics-229040-fuafu-3.jpg]

Time to get the fiberglass and mold making stuff out.

Keeps the flavor of the VF series with a touch bit extra.

Gonna be a "fiberglassy" winter season this year.....

And now, todays post and I'll let it run from here:

Well, pretty po'd today.

My Hindle pipe has a large crushed section. I was considering simply cutting it out and welding in a new piece.

I came across the "freezing method" for removing dents and thought I'd give it a try. Sounds easy enough and won't damage anything if I give it enough expansion room. I left the ends open and only filled the pipes to where the dents were and popped it in the freezer.

Pull it out this morning and it's frozen solid. No movement that I can see on the dents and crushed parts. So I melt the ice and start to refill to try again when.....leaks.

What?

Leaking from the rear pipe into the collector up against the upper pipe. Maybe 1/8 of clearance between the two.

The ice split it in the worst possible spot!

Grrrrr..................Sonovamotherlovin........[image: mad.gif]

So, the pipe goes back on with it's dents and flat section and the split will have to be brazed. There's no way to get in there to weld it, but braze will flow.

I should have known better......very mad with myself right now.

And now, wavering back and forth on the atomic orange paint.

Kind of swaying between the orange, the 85 red/white/blue and the all red 83 paint.

I'm partial to the 83 all red paint job because that was the one I bought new way back when in high school. I was on a waiting list for months.

Nothing made you as big a dude on campus (grade 10) as showing up on the 1983 "wonderbike" fresh off the presses....gawd, I miss that machine.....giant killer and docile at the same time. Blasting twisties or headed to the other side of the province, it did it all in complete poise and confidence. No one in the county wanted to mess with it, but everyone wanted to ride it (not a chance bubba!)

So many good memories with that 83........

Ya know, everytime I walk out into the garage and start messing with it the more I start thinking about just finishing it up as is and enjoy it.

Replace the one knackered stock muffler, paint it stock (or as close as possible) with the VF1000F side covers (already fitted), fix the anoying little bits (IE: busted choke cable, etc) and then just ride it.

Forget about the single rear seat (changes the looks) and forget about the hindle and custom can (I enjoy the stock muffler sound).

Enjoy the goodness that is VFF-ness on a warm summer day and a fast sweeping road....

Well, maybe the cbr600rr swingarm, and I do already have the sp2 brakes on the shelf, and maybe..............oh crap. I just never learn......[image: facepalm.gif]

Well farg.

Seems the LH muffler is no longer available.

Even my tried and true shop can't find an NOS one.

Might have to finish refurbing the hindle and cutting down the GSXR can after all.....

There is a company that makes faithful reproductions of the OEM Honda cans for the VF750s.

It's stuck in my head right now, but when it shakes loose, I'll post up.

Veefer800Canuck

There is a company that makes faithful reproductions of the OEM Honda cans for the VF750s.

It's stuck in my head right now, but when it shakes loose, I'll post up.

Yeah, I remember running across something like that before also.

Seems to me they were close, but "off" just enough to make me buy the OEM one from Honda.

Sadly, that's not an option any more.

But, "beggars can't be...." and all that jazz I suppose....

Well, looks like "full steam ahead", "damn the torpedos" or any other of a number of applicable battle cry's.......just ordered up a CBR600RR swingarm to graft in to the old girl.

That will allow me to tuck in the exhaust pipe on the right and high (well, higher) mount the can.

Better get the hindle into the blast cabinet and do something with it....

Good luck.

Veefer800Canuck

Good luck.

Hmmm, does that have a hint of skepticism in it?

Or maybe ominous overtones trying to fortell of long nights of frustrating work and endless outflow of cah?

It's not like I'm going somewhere where no man has gone before with the 600RR swingarm and unit prolink:

[image: 800-467408_honda_vf1000f-2ashx.jpg]

[image: 800-467407_honda_vf1000f-1ashx.jpg]

[image: 800-467406_honda_vf1000f-3ashx.jpg]

Sure, it's a streetfighter. But it's also a vF1000F and that's a cbr600RR swingarm on there so it's do-able. Only thin I could find was a web site from The Netherlands and it seemed like a bit of shaving slotted a 2004 arm right in there. Something like 15MM and 7MM... a pic from his build thread:

[image: achterkant3.jpg]

I'm sure it's little bit more involved than that, but I don't speak dutch either so who knows for sure until I get in there.....

Another conversion lurking around out there in the netherlands:

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Crazy damned dutch.......

Well maybe you can find a clean '83 & leave it stock after this one is done...

Why not go single sided arm?

Stock exhaust sucks no matter how new it is, fix your Hindle or find a kerker

That 'fightered 1000F looks interesting.

lsc86

Well maybe you can find a clean '83 & leave it stock after this one is done...

Why not go single sided arm?

Stock exhaust sucks no matter how new it is, fix your Hindle or find a kerker

Thought about a single, too hard to come buy and the cost was much higher. It's also kind of "played out" IMHO. Kind of like Lamborghini doors on cars; first couple were cool and a triumph of fabrication, then it became average to see one and eventually.....cliche.

The unit pro link is a neat setup I'd like to try and has a few interesting advantages in the design outside of the obvious "beef". Even if everyone jumps on he band wagon, it will still look like a beefed up normal swingarm so no "oh look, another sss conversion".

Sss or 600rr both increase weight so it's a draw there. The cbr unit also looks a bit more "racey" to my old eyes. But that's a beauty in the eye of the beholder thing.

I prefer the stock exhaust myself. Sounds nice and clean. Looks great too. I might had stayed with it if I could have gotten an new lh muff. It will go up into the storage space for maybe another day. I'll do something with the hindle or maybe weld up my own system for now.

Veefer800Canuck

That 'fightered 1000F looks interesting.

Sure does. The paint is hit and miss for me. Very nice application on the tank and the red striped black rims are pretty boss (yes, I'm an old fart!), but the side cover is just not quiet there. I'm not a fan of his headlight cover either....

Last time I checked his thead he had a cbr900 front end on it (seems it pretty much bolted on with using a gsxr top triple) and was putting the vf1000f tank, rads and fairing back on:

[image: E321A407-51CA-47BD-A16E-12811336D38C-683-000001AE3E10CFE4.jpg]

Something about it running hot without the double rads and also not enough wind protection for his liking. At least that's what I could figure from that forum and using babel fish....

So, here I am racking my brain thinking about how to retain my speedo and install a cbr front rim so I can use the SP1 brake rotors.

I could do a complete front end swap, but oh boy is that gonna get expensive and I still won't have a speedo drive.

A special bracket and a sprocket drive for the speedo is a possibility (more so now that seb and the bunch are looking at building one), but there's more price involved there also.

EBC makes a 320mm full floating rotor conversion for the F2 wheels, but you're into a large cash injection here also.

Then it hits me:

iphone.

I've got all manner of apps loaded up on the iphone that do gps (tom tom) speed, altitude, lean angle etc, etc that hangs off my windshield in the truck. The phone is also already in a water proof case (lifeproof) after a nasty encounter with salt water destroyed the last one.

I've got an extra dash panel lying around out in the garage.

Why not just swap on the wheel, ditch the bike speedo and graft a holder into the dash for the phone?

A charger would even keep it fresh for when I get off the bike.

I'd get speed and gps mapping all in one. Speed trap warnings too....

Basically, I'd have the cost of the wheel and a bit of fab work to bear and then it's all done and ready to go.

That damned phone is an integral part of my life now anyways, so why not have it on the bike too? At least this would be a useful purpose for it instead of the ex wife being able to hassle me and my calender running my life. I suppose there could be an upside; i could watch the ex call go to voice mail or I could answer it and she could listen to the v4 screaming in her ear...... :tongue:

It's something to think about for now, still not sold on the idea....but I sure do want to get those rc51 brakes on there....... :rolleyes:

I haven't had a working speedo in 26 years...who needs it? :wink:

Kel

I haven't had a working speedo in 26 years...who needs it? :wink:

Me.

But point taken!

;)

Teaser:

[image: 4F88F2D0-CA06-4EDB-B3BE-23DEEF25916E-683-000001BE7954B130.jpg]

[image: 3A904276-3385-4A2B-A897-90CA7EBA2E63-683-000001C066036D45.jpg]

Well, I have a plan for the speedo.

Thanks to the forum and the work done by others so far (seb, vfrcapn, etc) i'm going with the vfr750 primary sprocket drive speedo.

I have a drive from a 91 VFR and a motion pro 02-0126 cable on the way.

When it gets here, I'll be modifying my OEM cover to accept it all.

I'd like to go with Seb's bracket, but I would rather not have an open chain cover. Plus, I have to spend that 130-150 bucks elsewhere ATM.

A little work with the drill press and fabbing up a nice bushing will get things all mated up and ready to go.

I do believe I'll still make an iphone holder on the bike though. My fuse cover suffered punched hole when something fell on it. Seems a good location for a big of fiberglass work and an iphone spot....will help to back up the speedo on the dash since it may be "off" a bit with the mix match of parts.

Hold the phone!

NC24 rotors are floaters and fit the F2 wheels!

If I can source a set when I'm over in the UK at the end of the month I can use the SP1 calipers on the VF1000f forks with the F2 wheels and keep the stock speedo gear.

On the far horizon plan, I can use them as templates to make adapters for the SP1 rotors to the F2 wheels and "upsize" to 320mm discs from the NC24/F2 275 mm discs.

The caliper brackets are a piece o' pi$$ to make with floating discs and rigid calipers so no worries there.

Time to make a few long distance calls to "a couple o' me mates"....... :beer:

Done.

A guy I know looked up a couple breakers an turned up a set of good NC24 front rotors for 60 bucks (after exchange).

He'll hold on to them for me until I get to UK at the end of the month.

They bolt right on to F2 wheels (at least the dimensions are the same for the mounts) and are the same diameter as the VF/CBRF2 rotors.

A quick pass on the mill will get me brackets to adapt the SP1 calipers to the VF legs.

Handy little work around it is!

Later on, I'll try and source a set of EBC 320MM flaoting F2 conversion rotors and spin up some new caliper brackets to take full advantage of the RC51 stuff.

Overkill on the street for sure, but why the heck not?

:happy:

I've got him looking for a CBX750F dual headlight now.

I think I'm gonna try a bit of an endurance racer look for the ol' VF.... :ph34r:

Here's a look at the can closer to final positioning:

[image: 0AB5E77D-00FA-45D7-93D5-595B741B5871-1330-0000029DC31CBBD8.jpg]

[image: 05321987-6AD6-42FC-A837-9413E1CCF4EA-1330-0000029DD107711E.jpg]

Yup, maybe just a touch big looking, but I'd rather a touch too big rather than a touch too small for tuning reasons.

Since there's also going to be a fair bit of "gold" stuff on the bike (rotor cariers, front and rear calipers, etc) I thinking I may go with an altered version of the Rothman's colors to maybe tie it all together a little better:

[image: Honda-NS_400R_Rothmans_Rep-1986.jpg]

What kind of header is that?

NakedViffer

What kind of header is that?

It's an old Hindle.

My bud turned up a CBX750F dual headlight.

Gonna be making myself a dual headlight fair this winter.

:tour:

Just snagged an RC51 push pull throttle. 20 bucks shipped.

Looks to have the same cable ends as the VF where it enters the grip body.

Now the RH bar is all VTR stuff.

SP2 brakes, SP1 run/start switch and SP2 throttle.

Man, I've really gotta stop this....the postman is gonna have to show up at my house with a semi truck.........and the credit card company is lovin' me.....this hole just keeps gettin' deeper.....

Maybe move the can back a touch so the bends aren't so drastic between the collector outlet and the can inlet?

That VF with the CBR900 front end might have worked well, but it looked just off, no flowing lines, just too many new bits on an old frame, I think your's will turn out much more classic/stock looking.

Never cared much at all for the so called streetfighter look, glad to see you're not going that route. Guess I'm just too old school for that fad, or at least not in tune with the euro styling.

Curious if you gave any thought to modifying the stock swing arm vs. grafting on a newer unit?

Quick look at the new headlight assembly that will be part of 'er new mug:

[image: item85224-0b.jpg]

I think I'll whip up a quick photochop.....

grabbed a couple pics off the internet and did a quick and dirty rendering:

[image: Dual-chop.jpg]

Initial impression.......I like it!

Full steam ahead....

After "back and forthing" it quite a bit, I do believe I've come around to painting it the stock (as close to stock as possible) 1983 red and white colors.

[image: vf750f001.jpg]

Just want to catch a bit of the flavor of my first interceptor, which was a brand new 1983 red and white.

The bike is far enough of the stock 1985 that this is not a serious change at all.

Well, I'm also Canadian. So Red and White is a bit more "patriotic" for me than red/white/blue.

;)

I've had a very long time to think about paint for mine, and I still can't decide. It's original paint code calls for blue/white. I like both the blue and the red. Blue/red/white is both more racy, and less original being an 84 only color for the US while 1985 got r/w/b. Then there's the custom ideas...

Tough call for sure.

Oh, I've got a complete NOS set of 1985 RWB decals out in the garage. I'm just going to go with the 83 scheme for personal preference reasons...at least I think I am this week... :rolleyes:

Hi, this is my first post...great forum.

Good taste on the aold interceptor, I prefer the red & white. I bought mine in '83 and still have it. It served well a few weeks ago on my trip to the Bonneville Salt Flats.

Your headlight choice is kinda neat. When I first saw the RC17 in the '80's, I had the same impulse to get that fairing....but as you can see, I found a 6" round headlight fairing which I had shipped to Toronto from England....it is the only example I have ever seen. I took it off for the trip to Bonneville going for the reliability and loss of weight with the stock.

The fairing was built by JP Customs of England..........

Enjoy

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753558

Kevin

[image: post-25953-0-93367400-1347678120.jpg]

Looks like the front end off a big 'ol Paris-Dakar bike!

lynxrat

Hi, this is my first post...great forum.

Good taste on the aold interceptor, I prefer the red & white. I bought mine in '83 and still have it. It served well a few weeks ago on my trip to the Bonneville Salt Flats.

Your headlight choice is kinda neat. When I first saw the RC17 in the '80's, I had the same impulse to get that fairing....but as you can see, I found a 6" round headlight fairing which I had shipped to Toronto from England....it is the only example I have ever seen. I took it off for the trip to Bonneville going for the reliability and loss of weight with the stock.

The fairing was built by JP Customs of England..........

Enjoy

http://www.advrider....ad.php?t=753558

Kevin

Thats certainly.......interesting.

Any more pictures?

Inside, light mounting, etc?

Id is a complete new fiberglass piece of an alter interceptor fairing?

yo, as you can see, the headlights are recesed within the front of the fairing. The fairing looks very stock, with the exception of the twins....the side veiw of the bike is with the twin, with a contrast of the stock item...in touring trim...do you like my lowers?

[image: post-25953-0-35410300-1347728991.jpg]

[image: post-25953-0-71612100-1347729246.jpg]

[image: post-25953-0-27168100-1347729315.jpg]

Oh im liking that headlight faring! Very nice choice. I wonder if something like this is still available.

Ah, i see.

They more-or-less did what I'm planning for the RC15 dual lights.

I'm going to craft the new fairing on top of the old (without messing up the original plastic), pull a mold off it and lay up my new one to create the dual opening.

Mine is going to be a bit more stock looking though. Essentially, it will just lok as if the light opening is wider.

Your upper fairing I like because it's different. IE; not the same old cokkie cuter stocker. I don't think I would go with the round lights, but that's just a "beauty in the eye of the beholder" thing....

Your lowers look very functional for weather protection, just not my personal preference asthetically. I would think they made your long trip to the salt much more comfortable.

More pictures of the upper installed on the bike if you have them please.

;)

..ya, the lowers....new bug deflector to fit a 1975 chevy pickup... works very, very well! the top bit is from the same bug deflector...I was in a hurry, and could not find suitable lowers to do the trick, so this was easy and cheap

Rat-O-Ceptor- Interstrada!

I purchased the Corbin seat at the World Superbike race in Brainard Mn in 1990 and it has deteriorated very well.....(name dropping warning) I met Yvon and Miguel Duhamel there....Gods-Both!

Geez I like motorbikes...

When the weather changes to very cold, I will park the bike and put the twin on for photo-op, sorry, but I have no past pics of the twin on the bike.

Say, did you keep close notes on your wheels install? I think they look fab. I think you mentioned you made the spacers...do you have the spacer dimensions?

all the best

Kevin

lynxrat

Say, did you keep close notes on your wheels install? I think they look fab. I think you mentioned you made the spacers...do you have the spacer dimensions?

all the best

Kevin

Oh lord no.

I've been chopping bikes for a long time. The one before the VF is an 82 cb650sc thats more RZ500/EX500 than CB these days ( sitting behind the garage in is a sad state these days)

That was................*thinking*...........*thinking*..........about 7/8/9 years ago.

I was in the first batch to swap over to the F2 wheels once upon a time and did a "roll my own" deal in conjunction with some words of advice from a gent named Jamon out in Alberta at the time.

I centered the rims and then started shaving up spacers until I got everything right.

Front was a piece of cake. Only thing that was a pain was machining a spacer to fit the bearing seal. The speedo drive went in unaltered. rotors were VF750f stockers and eventually swapped to F2 rotors (which are for the most part identical)

The rear wheel went in with a vf500f drive section, CBR600 brake caliper bracket and some spun up spacers.

The rest was just spinning wrenches.

Thats all from memory ( which seems to be less and less reliable these days!) so i may have missed a detail bit or two...

Picked up the linkage for the swingarm the other day and a bunch of bolts, axle adjusters, brackets, bits, etc.

I've just been watching eBay mostly. There's no bike wreckers handy for hundreds of miles (more like around a thousand miles and a 6 hour ferry ride) so everything here has to be shipped in anyways.. The military has me in a "north-ish" semi isolated posting for the next couple years so that's just the way it has to be......

But, good news is I'm pretty well set for parts to start fabbing, altering and fitting this long, dark, cold winter when the snow is halfway up the door.

I've also gotten tired of "long handing" out spacers and other roundy type bits. Old age might be getting to me because I just don't seem to have the patience or desire for the tediousness of it anymore.

I still don't have the coin for a "proper" mill or lathe, so I bought a 6 inch independent 4 jaw lathe chuck today. With that and an old wood lathe that's been handed down through the ages I'll fab up a simple turning lathe that will let me at least spin out my own spacers at home.

Nothing super elaborate and it will most likely only spin aluminum for me. Most of those who can afford their own metal lathe are thinking "troouuuuble" but I've got it covered. I hand fabricate many of my own tools now (yes, you can get into .001 accuracy by hand, it just takes forever to get it) so this will at least spin true and will have a nice tooling bed to speed fabricating up just a touch.

Ever try to hand tool a perfectly round wheel spacer?

I'll tell you this much; it's not fast or much fun.

And man am I tapped out for cash now. They may all be "recycled" parts, but it all adds up after you buy a truckload of 'em.

Gotta wait for next month just to buy some raw aluminum stock.

Now that's tapped out brother....spare a guy a dime for a hot cup o' joe mister?

I promise i won't go spend it on bike parts.......... :rolleyes:

So, i arrived in merry ol' England this morning.

Bag drive of a flight. 17 hours after it was all said and done.

But a nice little present was waiting for me at the front desk:

[image: 398005E2-030E-478B-9DD2-05AECB8C7060-12833-00000F799B1EE287.jpg]

My cbx750 dual headlight for the vf conversion. Its in great shape. Even has smaller bulbs for drl's should i want to go that way. I suppose a feller could put colored bulbs in there id they wanted red or blue for show or something.

The other seller shipped out the nc24 rotors friday and they show up monday.

Good trip so far!

;)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rotors are in my luggage and will be winging their way to Canada tomorrow.

:)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Safe and sound at home, waiting for installation:

[image: CC7138D1-4772-4976-A757-DFD8782F8684-5068-00000423D950AB05.jpg]

Also had a nice surprise waiting for my arrival:

[image: 48D822F0-702F-4E09-A961-C1D8B8FA8221-5068-00000423D2C4535D.jpg]

[image: 88D91947-A8B3-42C7-BF3E-6A0FDED51167-5068-00000423BC5F307F.jpg]

[image: 6922913E-1169-43CC-BAB3-9D854845A0DC-5068-00000423CBF0081B.jpg]

I'm all set up for a long winter of fabricating!

:fing02:

How wide is the new arm at the pivot. If much more than 9" you might be in trouble. The right side pivot arm looks wide. Will it fit in the frames pivot "cage"? What are you doing for pivot bolts, You can't use 1 long one because of the rear pipes. You may have to make a custom header. Love the rotors.

Kel

How wide is the new arm at the pivot. If much more than 9" you might be in trouble. The right side pivot arm looks wide. Will it fit in the frames pivot "cage"? What are you doing for pivot bolts, You can't use 1 long one because of the rear pipes. You may have to make a custom header.

Hi Kel.

No worries, it'll fit.

I'm not breaking any new ground here as it's been done before:

[image: 800-467406_honda_vf1000f-3ashx.jpg]

[image: 800-467408_honda_vf1000f-2ashx.jpg]

Uses the VF pivot bolts and a bit of swingarm "shaving".

It's not a walk in the park but after reading the thread from the Netherland VF1000F pictured here it's not quite as involved as some other "swaps".

I plan to eventually use a CBR1000rr rear shock to move the reservoir to the over tire configuration. This should do away with any frame clearance problems (the above pic doesn't look like the most ideal solution) and I won't have to get the drive sprocket centerline and rear wheel centerline so out of alignment like the above pics. Chain clearance will also be improved at the swingarm pivot if I lower it from what the gent has done with the VF1000F pictured above. He built it as a "streetfighter" which seems to sacrfice some basic geometry for looks. I'm building it as practical everyday streetbike, so I'm less willing to sacrifice geometry for looks. It still won't be ideal, but much closer than a steetfightered bike.

The CBR1000RR shock is also a slightly better fit for the weight of the VF as opposed to the 600RR unit. Still not a match as the VF has somewhere around 100lbs on the 1000rr (not to mention having to carry my fat butt), but should be a little shorter path to the final product.

:cool:

Awesome. Can't wait to see it!

Experimenting with initial mock up.

Observations:

1. rear wheel.

I've already got cbr/f2 wheels on the bike. The wheel fits the newer CBR/RR arm fine. The problem is in the axle diameter and length. The RR axle is too large to fit the F2 bearings and the F2 axle is a touch too short to fit the swingarm width with the standard adjustment blocks. The F2 axle would also require some bushings to properly fit the swingarm openings, spacers and brake caliper bracket.

The easiest way out will be to fit the later RR bearings into the F2 wheel, assuming they have the same outer race diameter. Or perhaps just order a new set of bearing that are the proper specs for my needs. I need to check with some suppliers after I look up some specs.

Next way out would be to use the F2 axle and chain adjusters on the RR arm. My arm is a 2006 so it uses the bolts in the arm adjuster style rather than the older "metal loop" axle adjusters. A 2004 RR arm would have had the hoop style adjusters and may have worked "as is" with the F2 axle (well, with new bushings for the proper DIA). If I use the F2 axle, I'll also have to make up some bushings for the various bits that are larger diameters (IE: built for the larger RR axle).

The preference will be to simply swap in new bearing and shave/build the proper spacers for rear wheel alignment.

2. Swingarm axle bolts/pivot point.

a. The RH bolt from the VF frame slips right in like it was made to fit. Got off lucky there.

b. The LH side is a different matter. The bolt diameter is waaayyy smaller than the swingarm bushing.

So, I'll either need to;

i. make a sleeve for the bolt or

ii. spin up a whole new bushing with a smaller ID.

I would prefer to make a new bushing (option ii) but we'll have to see how it goes as I continue fitting the assembly.

The swingarm width is quite close to final dimensions also:

[image: C6AC19AF-B104-42E3-A52F-A32C17CF98ED-5068-0000042795E4F1EE.jpg]

[image: 0CD50B8E-EF45-4B0C-93B4-0855B8ABA986-5068-000004279CC0FC9C.jpg]

A couple MM's here and there will get it right in. Looks like I might need to mill 5-10 mm off on either side to fit 'er up.

It also looks as if the exhaust clearance is not going to be an issue at all.

4. Wheel alignment

Pretty good from eye balling it. Chain looks really close, tire looks centered:

[image: smudgeplate.jpg]

Obviously, measurements and refining are required.

5.Wheelbase

Looks like it's going to be a touch longer than the stock VF arm:

[image: 5E670A34-728A-403C-AFBE-F144F0FDE3FA-5068-00000427B7756382.jpg]

That picture is a little deceiving since it has to move forward about 3 1/2 inches before it's even close to the pivot point (it looks like a drag bike or one of those extended swingarm jobbies in that pic!).

I'm going to guestimate it will add another 5-15 MM to the wheel base, which can have a fairly large effect.

So the longer wheel base will alter handling a bit. But it's a street bike and I've got a couple other ideas on how to deal with the wheelbase change..

6. Linkages/shock mount.

The shock and linkage is all integral to the swingarm so no worries there. The only thing is the one link to the lower frame. Looks like I'm going to luck out here also - the RR link lines up pretty much spot on with the VF linkage frame point. Some shaving and cutting on the RR link should slip it right in. I'll most likely make up my own link/dogbone with heim joints so I can fine tune the ride height and suspension action (ie: progressive rate).

On a personal note that has nothing to do with how it functions; I think that arm looks really good on the bike!

I need to drop it on a scale to see how much more of less it is compared to the stock arm and shock/linkage. The really nice thing about the whole deal is it's going to be stiffer but also lower the center of gravity a bit since everything is in the swingarm and carried very low.

Should be interesting to see how it all effects the bike once it's done.

Also considering cutting down the GSXR can now and routing the pipe through the swingarm cutout similar to this:

[image: 10062010201.jpg]

Once I've got the swingarm installed, I can't see me not making use of the stock CBR pipe routing indent......

Whelp, there it is.

I need an offset sprocket for the chain to clear the swing arm.

Two options:

1. Buy one. I like that for bolt on easiness.

2. Build one. I need to replace the sprocket anyways (getting the shark fin look). I can buy a new one, chuck the old on up in the lathe, turn it down to a spacer and weld 'em together.

I like option 2 because it's just the price of a normal front sprocket.

Its not all bad either. With an offset sprocket i have the option of running a 5.5 wheel in the future if i want or need to.

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SP2 throttle is installed.

Easy as pie. Bolted right up. The stock VF cables work fine. Perhaps this means the RC51 cables will work with the VF carbs? It sure would be nice to find another workable solution to replacing the throttle cables than prowling ebay for NOS pieces to pop up. The SP2 throttle is also 1/4 turn, or at least the one I have is....

I also popped on the RC51 start/run housing but haven't had time to work out the electrical parts yet. The bike isn't going anywhere for several months so no biggie there.

The LH bar is probably going to stay VF stuff (clutch master, switchgear, etc) for the immediate future.

The next thing I'm going to have a try at is casting my own aluminum pieces (IE; brake brackets, rear set brackets, etc).

I've got a couple cracked Al heads that can be melted down after I build a furnace.

The sand casting process itself is pretty easy......

After a couple hours work shaving and fitting I'm getting closer:

[image: E76DEE23-7002-4CAE-9BC3-632D1E0988F7-5720-000005285AA19C9A.jpg]

It still has to go forward about another 2 inches to be at the pivot points.

So even though it's inside the frame rails it's not quite clearanced enough to make it up between the swingarm mounts:

[image: 1AD18635-EADF-47F1-B9B7-C308CD95052F-5720-00000528301C0BB4.jpg]

[image: 47A7D646-4940-4C5F-8A46-4F5B916209D8-5720-0000052840004085.jpg]

[image: 99D8238B-4C08-424C-958C-E909555004E5-5720-000005284827B620.jpg]

I still have a fair bit of material to remove. The swingarm bearings are ruined and will require replacement. I've been pressing and pounding on them to establish the final position so thier sacrifice has not been in vain.

Looks like I'll also have to shift some of the bits around like the fuel pump. Tiny bit of possible interference with the top of the shock.

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Figured I'd take a break from metal working the swingarm and bolt on the nc24 rotors:

[image: 222943DC-D340-45BD-A0B0-F06F9241D209-5720-0000052E132269DC.jpg]

Fit like a glove (or is that gloves?).

Now she's ready for me to build the brackets for the SP2 Nissin 4 pot calipers.

Yeesh, back to metal work.....it's like it never ends..... :tongue:

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So after another day of fittingand refinement, it looks like the clearance on the 600RR shock reservoir to frail rail is going to be pretty minimal.

The 1000F above gets away with it because the rear is jacked up to high heaven. Mine is a bit more conventional.

So, off to ebay and grab a cbr1000RR shock for 19 bucks. The reservoir points rear and up on the 1000RR so it should be in clear air once installed.

As a side bonus, it carries a 670Lb spring so it may be capable or carrying the VF750f weight and my ample poterior without respringing.

Time will tell....

More shaving on the swingarm pivot points. Getting closer.

Pulled the cbr bearings out of the pivots. Looks like they might be too long to fit in swingarm between the vf frame mounts.

I'll have see how it foes once the swingarm fits between the frame rails.

Shaving is going slowly ok purpose. Its a lot more difficult to put material back on than take it off......

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Let me just say, the way I got a modern arm in is to lose the right side pivot cage on the frame and grind down the left side pivot boss on the frame. Unfortunately, it means using a long through bolt for the pivot bolt and that might mean a custom exhaust in the rear. This will allow the arm to fit without hacking too much aluminum off of it and maintain stock bearings. You may not have to lose the left side boss but with the VFR arm, moving the whole thing to the left is the only way to line up the wheel. With a conventional arm, you can line the wheel up with spacers. My 2 cents. Love the rotors.

Oh so close:

[image: 3EDEE1B4-1D87-412F-860B-EC987E462688-7962-0000082119AC5DD5.jpg]

[image: B0D12D5C-C701-4A05-A255-7625A0302F12-7962-000008215B13F519.jpg]

But now i'm running into exactly what Kel mentioned: the rh side boxed cage.

The swingarm flares up and down as it moves back from the pivot point it won't go all the way into the cage.

Out comes the grinder again.

I was trying to mot alter the frame from stock but theres no other way at this point.

I'll shave a little off the swingarm and shave a little off the cage. I'll keep going back and forth between the two until i get a good march....

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Well, there we go. Its in. At least physically it's in place, no bearings yet:

[image: 3940EFBC-B291-489A-83C7-815ADC232C65-7962-000008275D8FD87D.jpg]

[image: 37F462B6-466D-4C5F-B76A-B3E891340445-7962-000008277D0A6BE2.jpg]

I shaved a little off the swingarm where it contacted the rh cage.

I will shave an 1/8 or so off the cage and see if i get enough clearance for suspension travel.

Little nervous While i was clearancing the arm, not certain if the part was hollow or solid and how thick it was if hollow.

But my reasoning in doing more with the swingarm instead of the frame is if i mess up the arm i just throw the stock arm back on and I've only wasted some cash.

Altering the frame is a little bit harder to recover from if it gets messed up...

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greatwhite

Altering the frame is a little bit harder to recover from if it gets messed up...

That is true. Some times you have to just go all in if you want it custom. I carefully removed the cage whole so I can re-weld it in the future when she goes back to stock. I can't believe Honda thought that was a stout mounting point for the rt side swingarm pivot. It's laughable. I can't tell how much you removed but that cage is under designed IMO as is the bolt that attaches to it. I'd risk my gradmothers life on the leftside bolt but the right one is wimpy if you ask me. I think it JUST does it's job in stock form and probably even flexes some but I wouldn't get TOO happy with the grinder there. The problem with mods like this is, one road block leads to another mod and so on and so on.

The 1000F rear looks high, probably to avoid contact with the rear frame member heading up to the tail? If you go too high, the chain will rub on the bottom of the frame on the other side. It never ends. Good luck and stay with it!

Well, there's only one swingarm bearing set installed and the linkage is temporarily attached to the bottom of the frame with stainless gear clamps but she's taken her first few wobbly steps on her new legs:

[image: 5C4BF0D4-C5C3-4EA8-A4A9-DCD5B692E0E3-8614-00000837FFA8858C.jpg]

Now that the basic layout is there and I know it will work, time to blow it all apart and build the final parts.

The swingarm pivot area needs final shaving a truing.

The swingarm needs new bearings and bushings.

The lower unit prolink needs custom "dogbones" to fit.

The CB1000RR shock is on the way and will replace the CBR600RR shock. The 600 shock reservoir clears, but barely. The CBR1000RR has the same dimensions as the CBR600 shock but the reservoir points the rear instead of the side and the spring is a higher rate.

The front counter-sprocket needs to be offset fabricated.

The chain clears the swingarm but just barely. The problem is at the shock brace where the chain runs by. It is very close. LIke 1/8-1/16 close. A small shim under the drive hub sprocket and a matching offset counter sprocket should fix things up.

The LH bearing cage needs to be further clearanced to allow move suspension travel. At rest it has enough, but at speed it will likely bottom and bind. I will also have to add to it to give it strength. I'll be welding a lip on the exterior of the box to replace the inside lip that I have to grind away. I may gusset the box as well as Kel has some good points in his previous post.

The rear wheel is aligned to center and most of the spacers are there but I still need to refine it.

The "guts" have to be readjusted above the shock mount (IE; battery box, fuel pump, catch cans, etc). Not much, just some slight shifting.

All in all it's coming along nicely!

So, I spun up a "sleeve" for the RH pivot bolt to take up the difference in the 20mm CBR bearing and the 17MM VF pivot bolt.

But it's just not as nice as I want because it was done on my homemade lathe project and the machinist inside has been screaming at me since the day I bolted it togther.

It would work fine and no one will ever see it, but it's eating at me. I've already proved to myself I could build a "backyard lathe" and make it work good enough to turn out somethign use-able, so now I'm ready to do it right.

So tomorrow I'll spin one up on the CNC lathe at work and get it just the way I like it;

Perfect.

Yeah, I do have access to the good bits.......aerospace industry and all that jazz.

I just prefer not to do "home stuff" at work. They don't mind small bits here and there, but it just doesn't feel right to use my employers machines for my personal use....

Starting mockup for cbx750f headlight:

[image: 49C8DE07-12BA-465D-ADB5-5F6867022B8F-5553-0000040BE7863CB0.jpg]

Ooooo, I really like the look of that!

Its just hanging in place with a twist of wire right now.

Looks like I'll need to alter the fairing bracket a touch and remount some connectors. no big, ive got a couple spare fairing brackets lying around and I want to snip off the oem connectors for metripak replacements anyways.

Then its on to form the fiberglass mold and them layup the new fairing.

Ive also got a guy at work spinning out my swingarm spacer on the cnc lathe. He's waaaay better than i am with it since its in his shop and not mine...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just for s and giggles, i threw some of the body work back on to get an idea of how it will look:

[image: 1D912AF8-AA15-451A-A2F3-2A529A6A7B53-5884-00000423D3C58752.jpg]

Coming along nicely.

However, I'm not so sure about a high mount muffler now.

I mean, it looks ok but i can see lots of problems.

Like moving weight higher in the chassis when i've been pursue lowering the roll center, not being able to throw a set of soft (or hard) bags over it, complicated exhaust routing, ect.

Ive Also come to like the empty look between the ducktail and the tire. The exhaust can fills that right up and makes the bile look bulky all over again...

Tell the truth, im kinda liking the newer under engine mufflers like on the vfr1200:

[image: 2012-Honda-VFR1200FADCTf-small.jpg]

even though I'm not doing a SSS. The other concern is where the exhaust exit is. I like hearing the bike, but I want the exit far enough behind me so i don't have to listen to it drone if i don't want to...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I've got the exhaust that I want:

[image: H8-Shot.jpg]

[image: H8-Side-Shot_Detail.jpg]

[image: DSC06677.jpg]

Yeah I'm stealing the idea, but a good idea is a good idea.

Easy routing, low in the chassis, excellent ground clearance and no issues with sadlle bags should I toss them on for any reason.

It also just looks damned sexy!

I have to go away for a week, but I'll start a few cardboard mockups when I get back.

I'll just have to very carefully build it to keep backpressure down, internal volume up and noise/rone acceptable.

Kind of like the old buell systems without looking like they were just pulle dof a 1940's JD tractor.....

So I picked up 4 10mm spherical bearing eye ends, three feet of m10 x 1.25 all thread (don't worry, grade 10 hardness stuff) and 4 10mm nuts today.

With that collection of bits i can make the links to mate the unit prolink suspension to the vf chassis.

I found a vf750f fairing for 50 bucks. It's cracked in places and i'll have to split in into its two halves to get it in my luggage, but it will work perfectly as the buck to make the cbx750f/VF fairing hybrid. A nice little bonus is that it has a perfectly good oem windscreen so i have a spare.

I also picked up a decently priced set of jet twisters for lots of jammy lock wiring once i get to that stage.

I'd never be able to find this stuff in the backwater ass-town I'm stuck in for the next 1 1/2 years.

Some times business trips are beneficial for more than just the business....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thinking more on the exhaust.

Printed a picture off and started doodling with a marker.

I now have a more or less idea of how it will go;

[image: exhaust.jpg]

Still like it!

How it going to sound is a different story though.

Initial idea is to leave the collector in place, dump it into a transverse muffler behind it and out the rh side. I'll be doing my best to match the volume of the stock mufflers, but there's only so much space available back there. The shape "blending" will be done with a "cover" much like on the taylor made exhaust systems.

Should be interesting to say the least....

See if you can adapt a set of rear down pipes from an 86, to get some length back in the rear pipes. Then make a compact 4-2-1 side exit.

SEBSPEEDSee if you can adapt a set of rear down pipes from an 86, to get some length back in the rear pipes. Then make a compact 4-2-1 side exit.

Thats a decent idea, but its basically a header at that point. I could just slap on the Hindle and have it done if that was the case.

But it wouldn't be what I'm after.

My plan is more if this idea:

[image: d_49914.jpg]

I use the collector box to provide the equal length for the rear exhaust then the collector to dump it into a secondary muffler that mellows and deepens the tone, basically a resonator. Then out a short rh exit in a "GP" style out.

Well,thats the plan....we all know what they say about plans of mice and men...

I love the vf750f and I love what you've done to yours but in my personal opinion I like the stock exhaust and I think that the one you are looking at is to modern for the 750. other than that I LOVE YOUR BIKE! keep up the good work.

greatwhite

SEBSPEEDSee if you can adapt a set of rear down pipes from an 86, to get some length back in the rear pipes. Then make a compact 4-2-1 side exit.

Thats a decent idea, but its basically a header at that point. I could just slap on the Hindle and have it done if that was the case.

But it wouldn't be what I'm after.

My plan is more if this idea:

[image: d_49914.jpg]

I use the collector box to provide the equal length for the rear exhaust then the collector to dump it into a secondary muffler that mellows and deepens the tone, basically a resonator. Then out a short rh exit in a "GP" style out.

Well,thats the plan....we all know what they say about plans of mice and men...

I was just thinking that all those boxes along the way would be the equivalent of stuffing a pair of socks in the pipe. But it's your bike...

The best laid schemes

o' mice and man

often go astray.

Robert Burns

1759 - 1796

"Life is no straight and easy corridor along

which we travel free and unhampered,

but a maze of passages,

through which we must seek our way,

lost and confused, now and again,

But always, if we have faith,

a door will open for us,

not perhaps one that we ourselves

would ever have thought of,

but one that will ultimately

prove good for us."

A J Cronin (1896-1981)

Dutchy

The best laid schemes

o' mice and man

often go astray.

Robert Burns

1759 - 1796

And Bob's yer uncle. LOL

Burns

Dutchy

The best laid schemes

o' mice and man

often go astray.

Robert Burns

1759 - 1796

And Bob's yer uncle. LOL

LOL!

SEBSPEED

greatwhite

SEBSPEEDSee if you can adapt a set of rear down pipes from an 86, to get some length back in the rear pipes. Then make a compact 4-2-1 side exit.

Thats a decent idea, but its basically a header at that point. I could just slap on the Hindle and have it done if that was the case.

But it wouldn't be what I'm after.

My plan is more if this idea:

[image: d_49914.jpg]

I use the collector box to provide the equal length for the rear exhaust then the collector to dump it into a secondary muffler that mellows and deepens the tone, basically a resonator. Then out a short rh exit in a "GP" style out.

Well,thats the plan....we all know what they say about plans of mice and men...

I was just thinking that all those boxes along the way would be the equivalent of stuffing a pair of socks in the pipe. But it's your bike...

Entirely possible it may be. The oem megaphones aren't so great either though. Quiet: yes. Free flowing: not so much....

But I really won't know until i get it built.

All its going to cost me is my time in the shop so no worries. I'll have to build it from scratch since nobody makes anything for these old hacks. I've got lots of sheet and tube lying around so its just cutting, welding, testing, cutting, welding, testing......

Well, i'll probably pop a couple bucks for a nice rolled stainless slash cut tip just to "pretty up" what will be visible but thats the extent of the cash outlay.

Its not going to just dump into a big empty box. That would sound like crap and lead to some restrictions. It will be engineered a bit for better "flow". Much like the way the stock collector isn't just a big empty chamber but a careful routing of pipes and baffling so will the chamber I'm planning.

I haven't been able to find a useable 750 collector but thats proved to be an exercise in futility. The only one that seems intact around here is mine. Atlantic Canada and a 25-odd year old steel exhaust system dont exactly co exist well. I may do some light work on the collector thats already on the bike. Its all reversable with a good day on the welder anyways. I do have a good vf500 collector lying around (and no vf500 bike) that I may chop up to get some more internal bits and pieces though.

The sound aspect worries me a bit. Almost all the attempts at "pipes" i've heard on a 360 degree VF don't seem to sound quite right. Kind of flat, not the nice rumble flat of oem, but more like flatulance flat.....just gutless sounding.

Like; bawahhhhhhhhhhhaaaaat (shift) blahhhhhhhhhhhaaaat (shift)......not cool, not cool at all....

There'll probably be lots of trials and cutting/welding before (if) I get it right. I'm already toying with the thought of two outlets and a diverter valve choke the second outlet down at idle and open above 1/2 throttle or so. That's a whole 'nother ball o' wax though...

As for modern looks and not looking good; meh, what looks "good" is a matter of personal opinion (no offense intended). If i don't like it or it sounds like crap its simply unbolt it and toss it on the pile of failed experiments out back.

To be honest, I didn't think anyone was even following this thread anymore and i was just mostly posting to myself...

Well that turned out well considering I had to coach the wife over the phone to take the measurements, vernier the bolt diameters and all:

[image: 57D40FBD-BEC7-4832-B55A-643F946AB876-1328-00000128E6130F9E.jpg]

[image: 56FA2874-E85C-471C-896A-6E99FDF5331B-1328-0000012901F0FFC5.jpg]

Fine tunable for height and if I want a radical change higher or lower I've still got 2 feet ot grade 10.5 all thread left. Probably throw a cover of some sort over it just to keep it from getting covered in road grime. A few shims and spacers and we can call that part done!

The CBR1000RR shock fixes up the CBR600RR side reservoir shock clearance issue.

Before:

[image: 2E75275D-0660-4F90-A716-BD2644E5A726-5068-00000427AA518416.jpg]

After:

[image: 45234E1F-7DF6-40E9-A5C2-01AC953455B7-1328-0000012981CCB776.jpg]

Simple bolt on change. Fits like it was meant to be there. As a side bonus, the spring rate may even be close enough to work as is. The static sage is noticeably much less than the 600 unit, although I haven't done any measuring yet. I'll have to wait until the finished weight is on the suspension and it's rolling down the road to know for sure.

Now it's on to fabbing the under engine exhaust. The one thing I hadn't accounted for though is how much space under the swingarm that unit prolink setup uses. Not a lot of real estate left down there for muffler volume. Not to mention, I don't want to roast the shock in radiated exhaust heat either.....

Just ran it with the stick exhaust minus the megaphones and with a couple stainless tips.

Yeah, rat bike style.

Holy crap, it sounds like a pissed off Harely D on steroids or a Duc with a serious mental issue!

Barking mad and belching flames on the run down after a rev. It actually rattled my ear drums in the garage to the point of discomfort!

Some might like that idea, me not so much.

I didn't expect it to be that nasty with nothing but the megaphones removed. Full OEM system otherwise.

If it was a track bike it would sound mean as h#ll bellowing down a back straight like that, but as a street bike it's...well, It's just too much.

Time to start working on ways to quiet that sucker down without jamming a big bloody can on there....time to start reading up on muffler design.

Hmmm, maybe an exup type valve to make it tunable on the fly for loudness.....quiet in town and on long cruises but ripping loud on back roads. It's an interesting thought at least.....

after some measuring and cardboard mockup, it's obvious space is at a premium.

So the plan is to whack the back off the stock collector, extend it back the 4 inches of available space, then build a "leg" on the RH side that will contain a small silencer section and terminate in a side exhaust back by the wheel.

Hopefully that will drop me somewhere in the 90-100 db range.

I'll use "SPL Meter" by studio six digital on my iPhone to get a rough idea of where it falls.

Spl meter ran out of authority above 108 Db. That was using the sae method at 5000rpm, 45 degrees off the opening and 20 inches away. Tapping 99 db at idle.

And so, mock up of an underslung muffler begins:[image: A051809A-98A1-4AD5-A945-D214BEDEC069-2705-0000022DDC6F7624-1.jpg]

[image: D6CC5F13-FF75-4393-A29B-00A64F585CE1-2705-00000231791D84C3.jpg]

I'm a bit committed at this point. I've whacked the back off the stock collector box in preparation for the fab.

No worries though.

Its a personal thing and may not be to everyone's taste, but i really like the way it is developing so cutting the box is no big sweat.

Its unique, it's one of a kind and it's mine.

It follows the exbox (aftermarket ducati) design loosely but its going to be all mine once done.

Here's hoping I can quiet it down under 100 db (hopefully closer to 90) without choking the life out if it....

Yay recycling!

[image: E653E73B-64C1-4A9A-BA93-D631FFF9DFE7-4513-000004292607FC57.jpg]

[image: 64B78698-995B-406C-A1B4-12673C181EB8-4513-0000042933B53317.jpg]

[image: 5F5FAC4A-5936-439B-91A4-A6EA859A21CF-4513-000004291583DC0C.jpg]

Take one long dead snowblower, a sawsall, a welder, metal forming tools and some hard work and the underslung exhaust is well under way.

It's still open all over the place, but I couldn't resist firing it up. It already sounds quieter and a bit deeper than just an open collector.

This weekend I'll finish closing it up, cut an access panel and start building the baffles/packing and outlets.

that automatically adds 10 horse right there!

tippman

that automatically adds 10 horse right there!

Ha!

I'll be happy just not to loose any HP and not have it rattle my ears off.

Truthfully, it's as much about looks and anything else.

I sure have dropped some weight though, I'm guessing 5-10 lbs over the stock cans.....

One reason I loved the F1R Cobra pipes on my old 700... they were light, and looked like the stock exhaust.

My favorite angle of the VF is a birds eye view of the stock bike.

Any concerns with the arm contacting the pipe? The arm will travel down as well as up from that resting point, some negative G's over a bump and it appears it will hit. No?

2thdrDid a lot of bikes from that era have mirrors that sat up on perches on the bars?

Yup.

On my VF750, I used some Suzuki GS550 mirrors that looked great.

Black, square, plastic with metal stalks. Correct 10mm thread to fit the Honda perches, etc.

Veefer800CanuckOn my VF750, I used some Suzuki GS550 mirrors that looked great.

Black, square, plastic with metal stalks. Correct 10mm thread to fit the Honda perches, etc.

Fine idea except my switch gear is all rc51 stuff now. No mirror base mounts....

Ahem...

[image: 0000-Moose-Racing-Mirror-Mount-Clutch-Perches-Black.jpg]

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/192/44676/ITEM/Moose-Racing-Mirror-Mount-Clutch-Perches.aspx?SiteID=SLI|Handlebar%20Mirror%20Mount&WT.MC_ID=10010

Ebay has them for less

SEBSPEEDAhem...

[image: 0000-Moose-Racing-Mirror-Mount-Clutch-Pe]

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/192/44676/ITEM/Moose-Racing-Mirror-Mount-Clutch-Perches.aspx?SiteID=SLI|Handlebar%20Mirror%20Mount&WT.MC_ID=10010

Yeah, I've seen them and they're an option, but a less desirable one than even the bar end mirrors....

Ebay has them for less

Well, bar mirrors showed up the other day.

Adjusted my grips slightly and bolted them on.

Mot the perfect look i was after, but i think they'll stay as the most workable compromise....

greatwhite

Experimenting with initial mock up.

Observations:

1. rear wheel.

I've already got cbr/f2 wheels on the bike. The wheel fits the newer CBR/RR arm fine. The problem is in the axle diameter and length. The RR axle is too large to fit the F2 bearings and the F2 axle is a touch too short to fit the swingarm width with the standard adjustment blocks. The F2 axle would also require some bushings to properly fit the swingarm openings, spacers and brake caliper bracket.

The easiest way out will be to fit the later RR bearings into the F2 wheel, assuming they have the same outer race diameter. Or perhaps just order a new set of bearing that are the proper specs for my needs. I need to check with some suppliers after I look up some specs.

Next way out would be to use the F2 axle and chain adjusters on the RR arm. My arm is a 2006 so it uses the bolts in the arm adjuster style rather than the older "metal loop" axle adjusters. A 2004 RR arm would have had the hoop style adjusters and may have worked "as is" with the F2 axle (well, with new bushings for the proper DIA). If I use the F2 axle, I'll also have to make up some bushings for the various bits that are larger diameters (IE: built for the larger RR axle).

The preference will be to simply swap in new bearing and shave/build the proper spacers for rear wheel alignment.

2. Swingarm axle bolts/pivot point.

a. The RH bolt from the VF frame slips right in like it was made to fit. Got off lucky there.

b. The LH side is a different matter. The bolt diameter is waaayyy smaller than the swingarm bushing.

So, I'll either need to;

i. make a sleeve for the bolt or

ii. spin up a whole new bushing with a smaller ID.

I would prefer to make a new bushing (option ii) but we'll have to see how it goes as I continue fitting the assembly.

The swingarm width is quite close to final dimensions also:

[image: C6AC19AF-B104-42E3-A52F-A32C17CF98ED-506]

[image: 0CD50B8E-EF45-4B0C-93B4-0855B8ABA986-506]

A couple MM's here and there will get it right in. Looks like I might need to mill 5-10 mm off on either side to fit 'er up.

It also looks as if the exhaust clearance is not going to be an issue at all.

4. Wheel alignment

Pretty good from eye balling it. Chain looks really close, tire looks centered:

[image: smudgeplate.jpg]

Obviously, measurements and refining are required.

5.Wheelbase

Looks like it's going to be a touch longer than the stock VF arm:

[image: 5E670A34-728A-403C-AFBE-F144F0FDE3FA-506]

That picture is a little deceiving since it has to move forward about 3 1/2 inches before it's even close to the pivot point (it looks like a drag bike or one of those extended swingarm jobbies in that pic!).

I'm going to guestimate it will add another 5-15 MM to the wheel base, which can have a fairly large effect.

So the longer wheel base will alter handling a bit. But it's a street bike and I've got a couple other ideas on how to deal with the wheelbase change..

6. Linkages/shock mount.

The shock and linkage is all integral to the swingarm so no worries there. The only thing is the one link to the lower frame. Looks like I'm going to luck out here also - the RR link lines up pretty much spot on with the VF linkage frame point. Some shaving and cutting on the RR link should slip it right in. I'll most likely make up my own link/dogbone with heim joints so I can fine tune the ride height and suspension action (ie: progressive rate).

On a personal note that has nothing to do with how it functions; I think that arm looks really good on the bike!

I need to drop it on a scale to see how much more of less it is compared to the stock arm and shock/linkage. The really nice thing about the whole deal is it's going to be stiffer but also lower the center of gravity a bit since everything is in the swingarm and carried very low.

Should be interesting to see how it all effects the bike once it's done.

Hi, everybody!!! I've the same problems with my '85 VF1000 with CBR600 swingarm. Can you send me some photos of the swingarm shaved?? How many mm do you have shaved from right and left sides?? Thank

Very interesting progress since the last (late fall) update I had seen. What plastic welding setup are you using?