Hello lads and birds...... (this will be a long post so the A.D.D. afflicted move on)
I haven't been on here in years. Like many a vifferhead I had waited for release and review of the latest VFR1200 before making my decision to buy the R1. I purchased it in September of 2010. Like many I expected 100 lbs less weight, didn't expect shaft drive (I like to make gearing changes, usually taking off top end in favor of acceleration) and just more for the new VFR in general. No offense to those who love the bike it just wasn't for me. I wanted an update of my '98 and felt, and still feel, that the VTEC and the 1200, well, weren't what I wanted, a 475lb VFR with 150 RWHP. Both have their fans and many are happy owners of these fine Honda products. I will return to buy a VFR when they can make one based on what it used to be and what it was originally or if the price drops enough on the 1200. At 10k now I can still say no, at 8-9k I'd probably park one next to the R1 and live with the shortcomings.
The R1 is my first non-Honda sportbike. I had many CBR's, a RC51 that I was forced to sell, and of course some VFR's. As a previous Honda nut, both in bikes and autos, it was a little bit of convincing myself to switch brands. A Honda never left me stranded (but I have had to carry spare R/R's for my '98 in prep) so I was reluctant.
Before I post a whole bunch of pictures of my steed, fresh from my build I wanted to give some of you a thorough review of the bike as it relates to the Viffer world or sport touring world. Some of you, and I mean a small percentage, the R1 will work for a sport tourer, occasional track day bike, daily, twisty mule, etc. Long trips through 3-4 states or more maybe not. I found it perfect for my needs, however, as a twisty mule, occasional track day machine, and light sport touring duty. I can do 500 mile days on it but I prefer to keep it at 300-350 miles as it's all cornering, very little slab, and I'm pushing at 70%, usually in 100 degree temps in TX. If it was mostly slab from X to Y, I can do 500 mile days no problem but that is typically not the type of riding I enjoy, on any bike. It's boring as hell to me and I ride motorcycles to corner not ride on freeways nonstop.
The current gen R1 has some issues like all bikes. No bike is perfect from the factory. The first is the weight. It's heavier than the competition (mostly due to the engine, it's heavier than a traditional inline 4). The sportbike crowd repeatedly bitch about this because they want the lightest literbike with the most peak HP. So off the showroom floor it has a weight penalty only as it translates to competing against the other liter bikes. That weight, is a benefit as a daily bike in my opinion. The bike is more stable and doesn't fly around as much when winds are high. I can compare it to my '08 CBR1000RR as the CBR was lighter but on the freeway out to the twisties, or connecting sets of twisty roads together on a flat rural highway, the R1 has the advantage. At the track, you want the lightest thing you can get, out in the open road, I prefer a slightly heavier bike. The added weight provides a little more stability IMO, and not as flighty if that makes sense. I know the traditional sense is light is right (babasan) but as a road going bike I like a few extra lbs (as long as it isn't 50 or 100 lbs extra). I still feel that a 475 lb 1000cc VFR would be the perfect motorcycle but I digress.
The next issue is the heat. I saw some threads on here mentioning this and I agree, stock, the heat is a problem. The problem (Mentioned this in another thread that I bumped today) is the stock cat, located in the Y pipe connecting the headers to the slip-ons. Once the cat is removed, the heat goes away and it is no longer a problem. The best bang/buck Y pipe is M4's, and can be had for less than $200. I went with a full Leo setup as I wanted to scavenge every last pony I could without doing any motor work.
Third major issue (non are really major IMO) is the fueling. It's hypersensitive stock, can be a bit touchy, and has too much engine braking. There are 3 selectable drive modes and stock you really have to use the one in the middle (B) as A is just too touchy. This issue is mostly due to the EPA. This brings me to my next point. From now on, Flashing ECU's is going to become more and more the norm for these new bikes, whether they be the VFR, R1, CBR, it makes no difference. They are flashing the Yamaha Super Tenere's ECU now and that is a dual sport type motorcycle. At any rate, the fueling problem goes away once the ECU is flashed. A reputable company called Flashtune (CA) does this service for $150 or you can buy their interface and do it yourself for $350. My ECU is flashed and some of the benefits are: I've reduced the fan switch on temp down to 195 degrees. I think it was 215 degrees stock. This means the bike runs cooler all the way around. As previously mentioned the fueling is solved. After the flash I ride in A mode solely, even in the rain. The flash also eliminates the need for a speedo healer as that functionality is builty into the flash, IE you can change gearing ratios in the ECU (I did change my gearing). I also have Graves Velocity stacks which require a change to the upper velocity stack opening point. You are able to set this opening point in the ECU as well as set the type of engine braking you want. There is more but you can check out Flashtune's website for the list of changes. I hope they will turn their attention to the VFR1200 at some point as it will be much better than the Zbomb and you'd be able to keep your gear indicator correct on the dash through the first few gears. The biggest change the flash did was remove the 80% throttle limitation above 10k RPM's. This adds about 6 peak HP and adds power throughout the rev range. Lots of stock restrictions on the crossplaned R1. Also, many guys are buying Power Commanders, paying to tune the bike, then they are loading that map in the ECU via Flashtune (Yes you can do this) and selling the Power Commanders as they are no longer needed. You can tune the bike via Flashtune interface but it isn't real time, time consuming ($$$$$ in labor), and good luck finding a tuner willing to do that.
The next thing I'll talk about on the bike for you guys is the riding position. The R1's stock riding position isn't bad at all, in fact it's the best or one of the best sportbike ratios you'll find on the market right now. Some of you won't like literbike seating arrangements no matter what. I'm 6'2" and it's comfy for me (will be 40 this year so I'm no spring chicken), for a stock bike, and excellent for tall(er) riders. I have added rearsets, a Saddlemen seat (also have a Corbin) and changed the clip-ons to Kyle Racing clip-ons which spread the weight out and up from stock. Probably 3/4" raise and 1" out. This was enough for me but I wanted to mention these:
http://www.apexmfg.com/products
The Apex riser clip-ons will transform this bike from comfortable sport bike to sport tourer with one modification. They aren't expensive and I know they work as I almost went this route myself but found the racing clip-ons added enough height that I didn't need them. I know a guy that regularly tours on his R1 and has these fitted. His bike has these and the GYTR foam seat (similar to a Corbin) and I can personally attest that with these simple two mods done, it's about the same riding position as a VFR800, maybe even better but I haven't sat on both back to back. Those Apex Riser clip-ons, if you spend some time reading about them, will make many sportbikes into sport tourers if you can deal with soft bags or installing brackets into the pillion pegs for top box mounting. With a seat, your only other hurdle will be luggage. With this current R1, lots of European riders are sport touring on it and the European market offers better luggage choices than our market in the states does. I can't stress those Apex clip-ons enough and I may switch to them down the road. I have no doubt they would help many out to make an otherwise full on sport bike into a sport tourer as far as riding position goes.
The last thing I'll mention before I post the pics is motor. This motor is a gem. It's the VFR800 motor I always wanted. The crossplane fires at exactly the same intervals as the 90 degree V4, 180 degree cranked, VFR800 motor from my '98 or the Vtec version. The crossplane motor, if you didn't know it, feels, and sounds, extremely close to the VFR motor, with the exception of the gear whine. The firing order of either is 180-90-180-270. The only difference is one head versus two, and no gear whine. From the throttle extremely similar. After lusting after a 1000cc V4 Honda sportbike or sport tourer (below 500 lbs) for over a decade I've now got it and it was worth the wait. Stock, the R1 is in the low 150 HP range, mine is right at 170 RWHP with full exhaust, trimmed airbox, removed AIS (Pair system), Graves velocity stacks, and flashed ECU. I am making power at the expense of mileage however and I want to mention that. My stock o2 sensor is disabled. If you want excellent MPG you'd want to retain stock o2 sensor functionality (which only works at 6k RPM's and below) and use a PC for mapping above 6K RPM's with attention paid to lean it out a little at partial throttle openings and save the thirsty cells for 100% throttle openings. Crusing in that setup would be mid 30's MPG figures with it dipping when flogged. In that setup I'd expect close to the same miles out of a tank as the VFR1200 but you would never get close to 200. It would remain at mid 150's. Stock I'd see 135-140 miles when the light came on now I see 115-120 but I have a ham fist and I'm rarely cruising. Not track like aggresiveness by any means but I'm riding the thing hard. Cruise from mile 1 to empty I'd say 160-170.
While it looks like a track bike (rear pegs removed), it is immensely comfortable with the clip-ons changed, new seat, and aftermarket rearsets. I could convert it to a full on sport tourer if I went with the above mentioned Apex risers and luggage but it's perfect for now. When touring I use a Kriega setup (backpack, waistpack, tailbag, and tankbag) and travel a little lighter than I would with saddlebags. I hope this helps someone. In many ways this is the bike I wanted from Honda but gave up waiting and I'm damn glad I did. The motor is absolutely fantastic, the front end is rock stable, and is a blast to rail turns on for hundreds of miles at a time. The brakes were good stock, phenomenal now. Had Brembo master cylinders on the RC (SP2) and Brembo rotors but this is my first time with a full Brembo setup, pads, calipers, rotors, master cylinder.
Valentino signed the seat cowl for me and I had it 3m'd, cut, and cleared over.
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A mod to never let me forget Marco Simoncelli.
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One of a few little inexpensive mods to thank Vale for signing it for me and to thank him for selecting the crossplane motor among a bunch of choices from Furusawa at the beginning of 2004. Had he decided on another route this motor might have not made it to production.
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Taller screen.
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Saddlemen's Gel seat which is quite comfy.
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Engine and frame protection.
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Rear end.
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Front end.
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Some final touches.
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Always love the gold pics.
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Some pics all put together (sans my windscreen decals)
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First long twisty run. Mirrors back on, V1 fitted via Stem Stand with H.A.R.D system.
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Final notes. This is my perfect bike as I lean more towards the sport than tour, and why I didn't go with Shamu. 80% of my riding is comfortable twisty miles. 10% track (1-4 days a year on average), and 10% intermediate sport touring., usually from TX up to AR to ride the Ozark mountains and some trips into New Mexico. I'm starting to look at the Super Tenere to add to the stable (have a Zuma 125 I commute on) due to the uneven firing order of the parallel twin and general all around duty bike but I haven't decided yet.
Cheers.