How Not To Change Oil Cooler Lines (And A Shout-Out To Vee-Eff-Ar)

So, did the oil change, oil cooler line change, rear brake pads and chain adjust with Vee-Eff-Ar (big shout-out to Vee-Eff-Ar for letting me use his tools and garage, but not for letting me use his torque wrench)

1. brake pads went well, i believe.

2. the oil filter was on so tight we had a drive a philips head screwdriver through the filter just to torque it off

3. the oil cooler lines came off alright but i put the hose holder on the wrong way and the left cooler line started leaking at start-up

3b. put the hose holder on the outside of the cooler line plate and when I re-torqued the bolt (because I always use a torque wrench) I ended up shearing the bolt head off because the torque wrench didn't give out like it's supposed to

3c. had to drill a hole, screw in an ez-out (left-handed thread) and finally remove the broken bolt shaft

3d. had to use the old bolt with some red lock tight and simply hand tightened the bolt

Damn torque wrench! I probably wouldn't have been concerned with the oil wetness around the bolt points on all the cooler lines if not for the torque wrench. Now i'm paranoid i'll be riding down the road and another bolt head will shear off, oil come spraying out all over my tire ... 

anyone else get that oily wetness around new plugs? I'm hoping it's just the new bolts needing to expand a bit under heat...

thoughts?

new parts: oil, oil filter, brake pads, oil cooler lines, all bolts for the oil cooler lines and gaskets

Looks like you need some enthalpy in your life!!!

A torque wrench on an M6 bolt has to be very sensitive--there's usually not much torque to "test".  I have two torque wrenches, one 1/2" drive for big fasteners and the other 3/8" drive for smaller ones.  Another catch is that torque values are generally given for DRY threads in a DRY hole.  If you're using anything that might lubricate the threads (e.g., anti-seize or even Loctite), the applied torque will be much greater than the setting on the torque wrench...which can easily result in stretched or snapped fasteners--especially on something the size of an M6. :wacko:

Ciao,

Jhz good point. Also for smaller stuff I convert ft lb to in lb and use a small torque driver for gun smithing

A torque wrench on an M6 bolt has to be very sensitive--there's usually not much torque to "test".  I have two torque wrenches, one 1/2" drive for big fasteners and the other 3/8" drive for smaller ones.  Another catch is that torque values are generally given for DRY threads in a DRY hole.  If you're using anything that might lubricate the threads (e.g., anti-seize or even Loctite), the applied torque will be much greater than the setting on the torque wrench...which can easily result in stretched or snapped fasteners--especially on something the size of an M6. :wacko:

Ciao,

good points

That bloody torque wrench :comp13:   :pissed:  First time using it, straight outta the plastic, I bought it new a few months ago, mainly for swapping in a disc brake front end on an old 67 Holden, lots of big ass steel bolts... but entropy insisted and who am I to deny a man his torquing pleasures.

Personally I don't use them for jobs we did, especially around alloy bolts and threads that small, and never had trouble. Again, introducing a tool where something else can go wrong and did. Nip em up, bit of hand torque, done. After doing these jobs several times you get a feel for what works well.

We had the thread out in half an hour thanks to my Dad and his assortment of "get out of jail" tools. Really quite easy in the end - alloy.

The oil cooler lines are not plugged by the bolts themselves but rather the plate and rubber o-ring. I dunno why Honda designed the lower seals like that with just a single side fitting, when two on either side would be a much secure sealed fit... space maybe. I thought the "leaky" side was on the right... bolt sheered on the left? 

I followed entropy back home to be sure (kinda felt shitty bout the whole thing) his bike didn't explode. Any puddles this morning? You sure you don't want that Diaz  :goofy:

Left side..

Wetness around the bolts at the oil cooler but out may just be the oil on the seal working it's way out.

No puddles and the ride today went well...twisted the wrist to get the rpm up to about ten grand...seemed good.

Good stuff entropy. I put a bit of locktight on those wrench screws today.

Ahhh, up at the cooler. Probably was a bit of squeeze weep.

Might look at getting a smaller torque wrench for ya.

You might even have me start torquing... is it contagious?  :goofy:

Next time we'll be done by lunch and can hit the twisties in the afternoon. :wheel:

Was good to get out on the bike, albeit just to the city and back.

Nice day for it today too.

Clean the area of all oily residue and see if more reappears... like looking for exactly where the oil leak is on an engine block that's so grimey you can't tell...

I'm not sure I've ever torqued any bolt... just use my wrist-o-meter.