Ok, I've looked at and scoured pictures and posts all over the internet, and this sight of course, and I can't seem to answer a question that popped into my head:
If I'm going to make a custom chain guard, do I need to use the two mounting holes where the plastic screw tabs go? (on the top of the SSSA)
The material is going to be stainless steel. Heavy I know, but a piece that would work was given to me for free,,,
I've seen lots of pictures of the outside of different chain guards, but never the inside. I looked on Thurn's website, and couldn't really tell. Same issue with other companies as well.
It's been awhile since I had my stock chain guard on, but I don't recall any mounting hardware going through the top of the SSSA. There are a couple screws that locate the brake lines, but IIRC, the chain guard is actually mounted along the side of the swing arm.
It's been awhile since I had my stock chain guard on, but I don't recall any mounting hardware going through the top of the SSSA. There are a couple screws that locate the brake lines, but IIRC, the chain guard is actually mounted along the side of the swing arm.
Stock chain guards have 2 plastic screw-type clips on the top of the swing arm. I'm guessing to help support the weight/movement of the brake lines. Something I'm not too worried about with a stronger chain guard.
No you don't need to use them. The stock guard only uses them, because its a heavy piece of plastic. You will need some anti flex strength in the support to stop the new guard flexing & bumping into the chain. So I guess you will be using an invert L design. Remember to turn the inner lip down 5-10mm to strengthen it in length. Then on the two upright parts, bend 3-5mm of each edge to reinforce those, hope that makes sense.
No you don't need to use them. The stock guard only uses them, because its a heavy piece of plastic. You will need some anti flex strength in the support to stop the new guard flexing & bumping into the chain. So I guess you will be using an invert L design. Remember to turn the inner lip down 5-10mm to strengthen it in length. Then on the two upright parts, bend 3-5mm of each edge to reinforce those, hope that makes sense.
I'm trying to picture that in my head... I guess I'm mostly confused about the upright parts you describe, and where the bends would be.
End of thread · 6 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 31 Oct 2013