Oil Change

I had seen several 7th gen folks mention that the 1200 is easy to change the oil on. I had done the R1 in December so yesterday it was time to do my first oil change on the VFR, as well as change the oil and Final drive oil on the Zuma, Honda Mower, and Honda weed eater.

Started with the VFR. Lower cowling came off with 4 allens. Had that off in literally 5 minutes or less and it was my first time and hadn't even cracked open the service manual. Filter was very easy to access as was the drain bolt. Easiest bike I've done oil changes on in at least 10 years. The R1 has the oil filter in between the headers and is always a cussing affair to get it out from behind the headers. This was a welcomed change. It was so easy that while the oil drained out of the VFR I drained the Zuma and lawn equipment. Also, since the filter is kicked sideways on the 1200, I had minimal oil to clean off the headers.

This was so easy on this bike you'd have to be a near fool to pay the stealer for it. If you've never turned a wrench you could do it.

Thank you Honda.

Agreed, easiest streetbike I've ever done. Dirt bikes are whole different story, some can be done in literally a couple minutes.

+1, PLEASE, everyone, don't pay the dealer to do this!

I use cheap tinfoil to help direct the oil from the filter away from the headers. Helps make for easier cleanup.

The VFR is easy to change the oil in... but the first time I changed the oil I wound up making a huge mess in my garage. All the bikes I have owned up to this point have had the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. For some reason the oil plug is on the side (you see where this is going). I place my oil pan under the bike.... loosen the drain plug as I usually do, pull the plug out, and that black gold starts flowing out of the bike... right onto my garage floor. Since the drain plug is on the side of the oil pan, the oil had some trajectory coming out and completely missed my oil pan.

crakerjac

I use cheap tinfoil to help direct the oil from the filter away from the headers. Helps make for easier cleanup.

The VFR is easy to change the oil in... but the first time I changed the oil I wound up making a huge mess in my garage. All the bikes I have owned up to this point have had the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. For some reason the oil plug is on the side (you see where this is going). I place my oil pan under the bike.... loosen the drain plug as I usually do, pull the plug out, and that black gold starts flowing out of the bike... right onto my garage floor. Since the drain plug is on the side of the oil pan, the oil had some trajectory coming out and completely missed my oil pan.

Don't mean to rub salt in it, but didn't you notice which way the drain plug was backing out toward, as you were loosening it. :wink:

I've had instances on new car/bike where the trajectory shot the oil a bit too far out than I anticipated, so I've gotten the habit of bringing the oil catch pan right up to the drain plug just before I back it out completely. Once the oil starts flowing, I then see where the pan needs to be.

^^ Thanks... I have a big enough oil tub that I didn't even think twice about it. The trajectory caught me off guard. Changing the oil in my Magna didn't go much smoother and I've done it a few times.... Just wasn't my day.

Classic Honda engineering there :)

Anything I own that has internal combustion engine is Honda. :beer:

luvtoleanit

I had seen several 7th gen folks mention that the 1200 is easy to change the oil on. I had done the R1 in December so yesterday it was time to do my first oil change on the VFR, as well as change the oil and Final drive oil on the Zuma, Honda Mower, and Honda weed eater.

Started with the VFR. Lower cowling came off with 4 allens. Had that off in literally 5 minutes or less and it was my first time and hadn't even cracked open the service manual. Filter was very easy to access as was the drain bolt. Easiest bike I've done oil changes on in at least 10 years. The R1 has the oil filter in between the headers and is always a cussing affair to get it out from behind the headers. This was a welcomed change. It was so easy that while the oil drained out of the VFR I drained the Zuma and lawn equipment. Also, since the filter is kicked sideways on the 1200, I had minimal oil to clean off the headers.

This was so easy on this bike you'd have to be a near fool to pay the stealer for it. If you've never turned a wrench you could do it.

Thank you Honda.

I used/maintained a riding lawnmower for a few seasons that had the filter mounted upside down. So when you spun it off (and up), oil washed all over the mower. Used all sorts of foil and carefully positioned pans, but still hated it with a passion.

Even more than that Chevy, I think it was, that a friend had. The oil filter was a removable element type, accessed from the top of the motor. I swear that's how we got it out, but can't remember much more than that.

crakerjac

I use cheap tinfoil to help direct the oil from the filter away from the headers. Helps make for easier cleanup.

The VFR is easy to change the oil in... but the first time I changed the oil I wound up making a huge mess in my garage. All the bikes I have owned up to this point have had the oil drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan. For some reason the oil plug is on the side (you see where this is going). I place my oil pan under the bike.... loosen the drain plug as I usually do, pull the plug out, and that black gold starts flowing out of the bike... right onto my garage floor. Since the drain plug is on the side of the oil pan, the oil had some trajectory coming out and completely missed my oil pan.

I can top that. I was an oil jerk at a shop as a kid. One time, standing under a car on the lift, after very carefully positioning the catch tank, I pulled the plug out towards me and was nearly knocked down when the oil w such force plunged fourth bouncing off the cone n splashing directly into my eye. Luckily we were real busy that day n the car had been sitting n cooling off for a while. But still. I looked like an Exxon Valdez duck n my buddies just laughed n laughed.

Changed oil on the Viffer for the first time today. Boy, I've never seen oil gush out that strong a jet in any other car, truck or bike. Now I can understand why some of you might make a mess. I had my drain pan tilted upward as always, so I was okay.

Maybe Honda thinks that it is a safer place to put the blug there. I also got the oil everywhere but now I've learned. I didn't even remove the lower cowling last time I changed.

I have a service warranty for 3 years on my Vfr1200 dct. Too her in at 700miles a couple weeks ago for the service and the guy that worked on it was a VFR fan himsekf and told me that my bike actually has 2 oil filters that need to be changed. Is this only on the DCT models?

Yep.

I've had a few bikes with drain plugs pointing to the rear or side....

I just hold the plug against the hole for a few seconds while the initial gusher is coming out until it loses a bit of energy and drains down instead of out.

Sorry to bring up an old post.

I have a problem following an oil change. Also, i want to ask what is the correct method to check the engine oil level?

My bike has a main stand.

Some background info: I had it overfilled by a stealership (did coolant change also) and noticed it at home as the level went past the sighting window. Slight foaming appeared also on the sighting window while the engine was idling (these idiots!). My estimation is of 400-425 ml overfill based on what remained in the bottle, the official fill quantity and the quantity on the invoice.

Checking the level by "5min idle - stop - check after 3 mins" procedure revealed that oil level was above the window. In fact, after 1 min waiting it was already reaching the max level.

After this check I drained 400 ml of engine by loosening the drain blot and watching the oil level dropping through the window. I tightened the bolt when I saw the level was 1 mm below MAX level.

Some verification I performed after draining the 400 ml out:

1. The method that i use is the one according to the user manual: with the engine cold at ambient temperature (not started since a day or so), start the engine and let it idle for 5minutes, stop it, let the oil gather down for 3 mins, check the level (bike on main stand).

By this method the oil level is 1mm below MAX level mark and this seems to me the right way to do it.

2. Checking the level while the bike is cold (not started at all) means engine oil level shows to be above max level, at the top of the window. I imagine that "cold start-idle-stop-check" sequence leads to oil being not fully drained yet when checking the level?

3. Checking the oil level after some ride of 50 km or so and after letting it sit for the same 3 minutes leads to oil level being over the window (not visible).

Moreover, after such a small ride, the top cap leaked slightly, like a drop spread around the cap. I stopped and re-seated the rubber seal, the leak is now barely visible. After sitting for an hour it evaporates by itself. The cap was surely tightened enough both before and after stopping. No foaming appeared on sighting window after removing the 400 ml.

What is your opinion based on the above? Which is the correct method? Is it possible to be still overfilled? Should i ignore hot oil level? Any info or advice you may have are welcomed.

I bought the bike used (2014 manual model), with 11000km on the clock, i have been riding the bike for 2000 km, oil level was visible with bike cold sitting for a few days. I had no drops near the top cap until stealership visit.

I really like the bike, it's the perfect machine, a blend of touring and sport.

Please let me know if any aspects need to be clarified, i tried to describe the situation as detailed as possible. Thanks.

Engine oil used is honda 10w30 factory spec, the black bottle, JASO MA spec.

I always aimed to have it on or just below the max line when cold, on coming to the bike after it having been stood still on the centrestand a good while.

But if the manual specifies that method you describe, I doubt it's wrong.

I have a 2013 VFR 1200F and a 2010 VFR 1200FD.  Both leak oil around the oil filler cap if I don't really tighten them down. 

If I check the oil level on a level (after a decent length ride) with the bike on a stand, I notice that the oil settles just over the full line.  If I check the next morning, the oil level has dropped a few mm to just under the full line.