I have a 2003 VFR I bought 5 weeks ago. I've put 2500 miles on it in that time. Great bike. Here is my question.
The bike does not have the riveted master link, instead a standard clip style link. The chain/sprockets appear to have some wear but still have many miles left on them. What is the conventional wisdom to running a clip type master link vs. the riveted one. Have people had failures with the clip style? I've had no problems in the miles I've ridden. Some of it spirited riding, but certainly not race track type demanding.
Did not know this was ledgendary like oil threads. More asking whether to rivet it for it's remaining miles or leave it be. In 45 years of motorcycles, I've never owned a riveted chain. All my bikes have been either drive shafts or clipped links.
I never had any issue with press clip master links no glue/no epoxy/no wiring, atleast on sub 100 horse bikes. I used to run them on the vfr , till I lost so many clips it was rediculous, atleast 1/2 a dosen.
With 2.6 mm plating, you dont seem to get as much side plate flex, so I did have a clip last life of the chain(epoxied). 2.2 and 2.4mm chains, those clips would just pop, even the epoxy wouldnt hold. And I beliieve the main reason is side plate flexing. However I never had a pressed side plate move, even though losing the clip.
Of course with rivets, the tolerences are so tight, much harder to install its pressed plate, but makes everything become a non liability.
Thanks for the replies. Based on what I am hearing, I am not going to be concerned about the clip style link on my bike. If my next chain comes with a rivet link I'll use it then.
I recently put a new DID chain on and when riveting the master, I was surprised that the specs for rivet head mushroom dimensions were not included with the chain. I wonder why?
I'm assuming your friend did something wrong with the riveting. Did he ever figure out what?
When my master link failed it caused several hundred dollars in damage to the case area around the front sprocket. Took several weeks to replace all the broken plates and bolts. Luckily this happened at 20mph and I did not go down. If it would have failed at speed the several quarts of spilled oil would have been terrible for traction. Master link was riveted, and I improperly shot said rivet .
Edited 2 Oct 2013 by Noobtastic14
I would never trust epoxy to hold in that scene ( or Locktite red).
J
I wouldnt use red lock tite either, its not strong enough as an industrial expoxy, the purpose of the epoxy was to hold the clip against the side plate and not vibrate and wallow out the clip hold around the pins. But when I was poping brand new clips on 2.2 or 2.4 mm side plated chains ridely, I knew there had to be something else going on there, such as side plate flex that was also breaking the expoxy, plus popping the clip. The 2.6 mm plating that held well to end of life, IMO didnt have the same side plate flexing issue so the clip held much better.
Ofcourse this was before, just transfering to rivit, as I was done with the clip popping episodes.
The chain can be removed intact as explained & shown in the following links. I just did it. Not difficult & it worked great! Very glad the procedure was shared!!
As Rob stated clips may jettison but the link will hold because it is pressed on... a little dab of FIPG or Honda Bond will help the clip stay on the chain...
On my old -87 VFR750F I always had a clip style chain look, as on my wifes bike also (Suzuki), but on my 800 VFR I have a rivet style look.
I think the main problem whit a clip style look is when the bike it used at higher speed, as then the clip might open from G-forces and wear. Also there is poor an good clips. So if you ride whit limits of the road speeds, or just above, a good clip can be safe, but for fast blasting (+200km/h) a rivet look is perfered.
Always put in a new clip lock if chain is off whit a clip style chain look is a piece of mind.
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